Take your cables to the local NAPA or other auto parts store. They will match
the length and the cable ends to the proper Teledyne – Morse cables for your
installation. They are pretty inexpensive, I think I paid about $40-45 for the
replacement cables for my 38 (one of which was the old fat cab
I need to remove my Datamarine transponder to send it to DMI for repair. Does
anyone know how it is held in place in the through hull. I can't see any
retaining pins etc - yet it has a "t" like handle which implies it should be
removable with ease.
--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT
__
Hi Josh,
I have been thinking the same thing. So far (only removed one window)
the damage has been contained under the glazing.
Gary
S/V High Maintenance
1990 C&C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~
On Sun, Nov 8, 2015 at 10:53 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-lis
ALL of the datamarine transducers that I've had or seen have a pin and ring
which secure the transducer. The T-handle on mine are used to secure the
transducer thru-hull housing in the hull. Don't touch until you are really
sure AND on the hard.
Maybe some pictures would help us see what you're
Rick
Do you still know who does Soda blasting in this area?
Thanks
Mike
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Taillieu via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 07, 2015 7:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Taillieu
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel attachment iss
Stevan, mine just popped out with a firm rap from my hand. Had to fix up a few
small patches of gelcoat but nothing major.
Mike Amirault
C&C33 MKii SMSC___
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
Gelcoat is just pigmented polyester AFAIK, so I would go with polyester if it
isn't going to show anyway. (note, some gelcoats may be based on epoxy) Styrene
applied before the polyester may help to make a better bond.___
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-li
Ditto. Not even very firm rap of hand was needed...
Nate
"Sarah Jean"
1980 30-1
and T31
On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 8:21 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Stevan, mine just popped out with a firm rap from my hand. Had to fix up a
> few small patches of gelcoat but noth
I like the VHB tape method but wasn't there some discussion in previous
posts about the structural properties of the various sealants?
Is this or should this be a concern?
VHB is a product line with various thicknesses and bond strengths so it is
important to make sure you know what you're gettin
I used epoxy filled 50-50 with colloidal silica & 3M glass bubbles. Without
the 3M bubbles, sanding the thickened silica epoxy mix is like sanding a rock.
-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> On Nov 9, 2015, at 6:48 AM, cn
Wow! You guys are lucky! My Windows came out in pieces with significant gel
coat damage.
Gary
S/V High Maintenance
1990 C&C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA
Sent from my iPhone. ~~~_/)~~~
> On Nov 9, 2015, at 9:26 AM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Ditto. Not even very firm rap of
"Wow! You guys are lucky! My Windows came out in pieces with significant gel
coat damage."Well, Gary, you are "High Maintenance" ;)Mike AmiraultLovely
Cruise C&C33MKiiSMSC___
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, inclu
Not quite the same thing but lately I've been removing ports that were held
in with sealant by using a vibrating saw with a caulk cutting blade. Like
these:
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-OSC214C-4-Inch-Caulk-Knife/dp/B004UBF43S
http://multifitblades.com/straight-sealant-cutter.html
Not sure how t
Hi Dennis,
I'm quite sure those blades would work well for soft calk like
silicones or urethanes, but Plexus is hard as a rock and I don't think they
would work. In addition, the big problem is getting at the bottom window
joint that is very close to the turn on the deck.
Gary
S/V High Maint
Was afraid of that. The only ports close to the new C&C ports I've done
were on a Beneteau. Don't remember how hard the adhesive was.
Dennis C.
On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 10:45 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hi Dennis,
> I'm quite sure those blades would work
Next year I will race Tabasco a bit. I have 2 headsails, one seems to be a
105, the other a 130.
I like the 105, because it is easy to tack, and strong enough to have an
enjoyable sail if I am lazy and it is blowing over 10.
The sail in Sailboatdata looks like a pretty big sail, like a 150.
What i
Nate
Could you email me at rbfrer...@yahoo.com
Thanks
Ron
C&c 30-1
STL
Nate Flesness via CnC-List wrote:
>___
>
>Email address:
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
>of page at:
>http:/
The transducers I removed were twist and pull type. They usually have to
o-rings on them. You should have a dummy plug to put in there ASAP
(i.e.within seconds) if you are in the water.
They are designed to be removed while in the water, but is is a very
"exciting" process.
On some boats there is a
Ahmet
The 25 that we raced against extensively bought a new 150 from North around
2002 and removed the 170 from its inventory. They also purchased a 130 and had
a 110 or so and a new main. They almost always raced with the 150. When it
became too windy for 150 they went to their 110.
That b
I had a 150 and a 110 on my old C&C 25, and that was a nice selection. I also
bought an old 170 drifter on the web that was absolutely beautiful in very
light air.
The 25 heels to about 25 or 30 degrees and then locks in solid, so it’s not
necessarily time to reef when you hit that point. That’
Mike,
I had mine done in Ontario, I don’t know who does it out here.
Maybe call around to some mobile sand blasting companies and see if they do
soda or dry ice blasting.
>From what I’ve heard, dry ice blasting leaves a lot less mess to clean up.
Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25 #371
Ahmet,
When these boats were designed in the early ‘70s a #1 genoa was a 170 (actually
around a 163% overlap), a #2 was a low hoist 150 and the working jib was a high
clew 110.
Now PHRF regions have a 153/155 as a #1 genoa and anything over that carries a
rating penalty. If you race in an a
This is my first post so please be kind if I am doing anything wrong.
I have an '86 29 MKII purchased in august with leaking windows.There is
obvious signs of repair to the gel coat around the windows so I am certain they
have been replaced before. Windows are in good shape so I just need
Thank you for the info Rick. I will email you privately if I have any
specific questions.
With the 110, I need to use the toerail in order give the upper part the
proper twist.
Even close hauled, at times the inside track is just too short. If I was
serious about it I could probably rig a barber ha
I have purchased a 1976 C&C 33 MK I that had some fire damage (due to a
fire on a neighboring boat) to the outside of the starboard side of the
hull. she is floating but dirty all around. I am planing on doing a modest
restore on her. I am not looking for perfection but for a nice fun to sail
boat
Hi Bruce,
Welcome to the C&C forum. Some members get a little cranky, but most
are wonderful folks that just want to help.
First a few basics. Plexiglas is a trade name for acrylic and Lexan
is the trade name for poly carbonate. Poly carbonate is known for being
bullet proof, but easy
A lot of people paraise using Butyl tape for attaching windows.
I have not done it, but I can see the results on my C&C Hull/Deck joint,
and it looks pretty good
Ahmet
On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 5:48 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hi Bruce,
> Welcome to the C&C
Butyl tape is a terrific sealant. I use it all the time. It is not an
adhesive, however, and should not be used to bond windows to fiberglass.
Gary
~~~_/)~~
On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 6:01 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List
wrote:
> A lot of people paraise using Butyl tape for attaching windows.
>
Steve:
I took a narrow but very stiff putty knifefurther sharpened the edge
with a filethen with a hammer, slowly taped and cut out the old
windows from the inside. Got 3 windows out, no problem, then window no
.4, the forward long port one, bottom and 2 sides cut O.K..had a
pro
The cushion for the settee on my c&c 33-1 fits nicely on the outer side wall of
the quarter berth cant remember if the wood reinforcement goes up or down but
it fits much nicer one way than the other.
I replaced my ports with beckson opening ports and all i had to do was take out
a little of th
>3.) Where can I find out the fiberglass layup schedule?
Paul,
A good place to find details on your C&C’s construction details is the Maritime
Museum of the Great Lakes in Kingston. I was able to buy copies of Calypso
build drawings which have been very helpful on our deck restoration project.
More response to this thread; I’ve been working on the fixed ports on my boat
over the last few days and and paying close attention. After absorbing a good
bit of the info in the thread and the links provided, I’m planning on moving
away from using Plexus ("if it was good enough for my grandfath
Hi Paul,
Are the port frames salvageable? It's not too hard to put in new lenses.
I've used butyl between the frames and the cabintop and black 4200 to seal
the lenses into the frames. No leaks - finally.
As for the layup schedule, I'd just overbuild it until the extra fiberglass
is almost noticeab
A very important distinction (made before by others) when talking about
rebedding windows/ports/port lights is whether the window is the old style,
i.e. aluminium frame attached to the cabintop and a lens attached to the
frame or, the newer style which is a lens glued directly to the the outside
of
Dave, I checked your blog and that's an impressive effort there on the
refit. I hope the VHB works out for you.
Ahmet, I hear butyl is good for the aluminum frame portlights on the 70s
C&Cs. The fixed port lights on the 80s boats are supposed to be structural
so they have to be bonded to the cabin
Bob,
Good point.
Gary
~~~_/)~~
On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 8:50 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> A very important distinction (made before by others) when talking about
> rebedding windows/ports/port lights is whether the window is the old style,
> i.e. alumi
Martin,
Do know if they have drawings for 30-1? What is the process for requesting
them? It would be great to have Admiral Maggie's drawings...
Cheers,
Aaron Rouhi
Admiral Maggie
79 30-1
Annapolis, MD
On Nov 9, 2015, at 7:29 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
My throttle cable came with a small clamp that squeezes the outer plastic
sheath against the inner SS rod. I've seen this same setup on several other
boats. Without it, the throttle spring pulls the lever till the engine slows to
an idle. Some Edson binacles have a screw that serves the same pur
I have been looking for final results for several days. There has been no
update on the race website, but I came across this in the Pensacola News
Journal:
http://www.pnj.com/story/sports/2015/11/09/kriegel-reiss-share-pensacola-la-habana-honors/75485862/
Congratulations to the Deja Vu crew f
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