Dear Dave J,
I would agree w the yard and apply 7 coats. It's more than what Interlux
recommends but the cost of paint is minimal compared to the cost of
sodablasting and fairing the surface. I also think alternating the colors is
the easiest way to prove how many coats went on the hull especia
I just bought a 1975 C&C 25mk. It's my first sailboat I have owned. Just
wondering what is the best product to use to fix the C&C smile. Also what is
the procedure to go about fixing it?
Sent from my iPhone
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This List is provided by the C&C Photo Al
I can tell you why. The quick-attach can SLIP far too easily. Happened
on my Babystay when I cranked the backstay. When I let off the backstay,
the previously firmly tightened babystay was flopping around. The wire
goes straight into the fitting with no bends or "spread out" of the
strands like
I fixed mine about 10 years ago and it has remained completely fixed,
despite a few incidents of groundings. I cleaned out the joint mostly by
using a wire wheel chucked in a drill. That dug a channel all the way
along the length of the joint on both sides and around the leading edge.
Then re-
Thanks bill
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 24, 2014, at 5:46 AM, Bill Bina via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I fixed mine about 10 years ago and it has remained completely fixed, despite
> a few incidents of groundings. I cleaned out the joint mostly by using a wire
> wheel chucked in a drill. That du
Bill,
Swaged fittings don't spread the wires to distribute the load either. It
sounds like maybe you didn't tighten the cones enough. I did some
destructive testing and had to physically beat the fitting apart to get the
wedges separated from the cone.
Josh
On Oct 24, 2014 6:22 AM, "Bill Bina v
Swaged fittings are not comparable to these fittings. A swaged fitting
has a huge amount of surface area contact between fitting and wire
compared to the quick-attach. There is even a known reliability
difference between machine swaged and hand swaged that strongly favors
machine swaged.
I ti
What worked well for me was a heat gun,
Then Bahco carbide scrapers, I have the 2” and 1” triangle that Jim Watts
turned me onto several years ago, this gets you right down to the quick, then
the orbital sander hooked up to the shop vac. I removed them to the shop, it
was probably worth the r
Dan:
Congratulations on your new boat and welcome to the C&C list. Just about
anything you need advice on, you can get it here.
In my opinion, Bill Bina has provided you with one of the best methods
to deal with the 'C&C smile'. It is pretty much the way we dealt with
ours when we acquired
I recently installed new stair treads at home - replacing the old
carpet stairs with new oak hardwood.
But with kids at home I was concerned about traction with kids at
home.
I went to Home Depot and bought a small package of "paint grit" -
only a cou
I am planning on barrier coating the bottom in the spring with Pettit Protect
after soda/walnut blasting this fall. One question I came up against was the
soda blaster asking if I wanted the previous barrier coat removed. I have no
idea what is on there given that it was done by a PO. But I ca
Dave:
In the Spring of 2006, we had the bottom 'dry ice blasted' to prepare it
for the Interprotect 2000E. If you use this product, read and follow
the instructions.
First step after the blasting was to wash the bottom with a solvent
(don't remember it but I thing it was Interlux 215). The
And if you are in the northern climate and are pulling the boat out for the
winter, add a garboard drain plug to let water out of the bildge before it
freezes and causes more cracks.
Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 C&C 38MkII
Newport, RI
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-
Just make sure the Pettit Protect will adequately adhere to the existing
paint.
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2014/10/24 10:35 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
I am planning on barrier coating the bottom in the spring with Pettit
Protect after soda/walnut blasting this fa
If the exsisting barrier coat is sound why remove it? Why replace it/add
to it? You may have problems getting new barrier coat to stick to old if
you don't remove it.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Oct 24, 2014 9:35 AM, "David Knecht via CnC-List"
wrote:
> I am planning
I have user Sobstad in Barrie for standing rigging and swagged lifelines. The
work is done
at Transat Marine which is also in Barrie.
http://www.transatmarine.com/main/homepage.html
You can contact Richard Osborne as Sobstad - sobs...@bellnet.ca
Transat was originally owned by John Osborne, Ric
What he said.
Did similar on our J27 to seasons ago and never saw a crack since on
keel/hull joint
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Robert Abbott via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2014 10:26 AM
To: Dan Mccorison; cnc-list@cnc-list.
The 25 is a great boat. A whole lot of boat for the money too
Congratulations!
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
DANIEL MCCORISON via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2014 7:05 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C smile
I am looking for opinions on ice or soda blasting to remove multiple layers
of bottom paint.
I am also interested to find out what is the cost per foot being charged.
Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or
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Fred,
3 years ago I paid 1700 for my 35 for labor and materials. I did not price
shop - I used the guy with a shop where I was hauled.
Joel
35/3
Annapolis
On Fri, Oct 24, 2014 at 11:42 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I am looking for opinions on ice or soda blas
is now delta marine sidney bc
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Ditto. Key is torquing the keelbolts.
Pictures of Touché's smile are on the C&C photo album DIY section. Fix was
1999. No issue since
Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 24, 2014, at 8:26 AM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Dan:
>
> Congratulatio
Delta took over from Jon Blanshard at that location, looks like Jon has set
up Blanshard Rigging on Hornby.
I was also *seriously* unimpressed with Delta, for a couple of reasons.
They are under new ownership now, so maybe things have changed for the
better. I wouldn't count on it. They are still
Fred
Rather than soda blasting buy a paint scraper and some blades and go out to
your boat and scrape the old coatings off at the bow. Do a 1 sq ft section.
Once you have completed one sq ft and then sanded that down to gel coat with
120 grit sandpaper only then go in to your office and
All,
My new Delrin bearing for the top of the rudder post is ready.
The boat is staying in the water. Do I need run a line under the rudder to
the stern cleats before I loosen the retaining ring? Or should I put a
shim under the quadrant to limit the drop?
Do I need anything besides allen wren
Hi Joel,
Check the top of your rudder post. The top of mine has a threaded 1/2 hole, so
I screwed in a bolt with a ring on the top of it (about $2 from home dépôt) and
tied a line from that to the backstay. It was a lot easier than running a line
under the rudder.
Mike
Atacama 33 Mk ii
Sen
I did the hull of my 27 with a random orbital sander six years ago. I came to
the conclusion that when bad sailors die they go to a boatyard in hell to sand
hulls for eternity.
Any price to have someone do a soda job for you is cheap.
This is possibly the worst job in boat ownership.
Brent
27
Rob I sail from Duluth, Mn. Looking forward to asking questions, I'm sure I'll
have a lot of them. Thanks for the nice welcome.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 24, 2014, at 11:17 AM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List"
> wrote:
>
> Ditto. Key is torquing the keelbolts.
>
> Pictures of Touché's smile are
Sanding with a disc sander requires skill. If you're not careful you will
"tilt" the sander and gouge or scallop the hull.
Use at least a 6" sander and a soft pad. Maybe look to rent a rectangular DA
sander made by Hutchins. The pad is about 12 x 3 inches.
Dennis C.
Sent from my iPhone
> On
Hi, Dan — welcome to the best place on the planet for owners of vintage C&C’s!
Stu has done us all a great service in taking over this list-serve since
SailNet and its old chat groups went under several years back.
I’m also on the Big Lake, but a little further east of you. Haul-out Monday…
When I recently dropped my rudder I found the retaining ring needed
serious encouragement to come off, had to put a pipe wrench to it. The
strap wrench did not do it at all.
Hope yours is more free than that. Apply lubrication liberally!
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2014-10-
Fred
The contractor that 'dry ice blast' our boat in 2006 gave us a
dealhe was trying to drum up business by demonstrating how quick and
effective his process was. The regular price for our C&C 32 was about
$1,600 CDN.we got it done for half that total cost.a deal we
could not re
These are the same guys that just had a conversion about still using 30 or 40 year old sails and when they change them (IF) will go to Bacon’s for a 20 year old sail.Sailors are cheap!!!
You should read some of the British sail mags. You'd be amazed what British sailors can do with sticky tape and binder twine - or maybe you wouldn't!
The spec sheet for the Suncor toggles says the working load limit of the
assembly is limited by the working load limit if the wire you are using. IIRC,
that is basically the same statement made for the Sta-lok and Norseman fittings
I've used in the rigging of my 25 and my 38.
Rick Brass
Sent f
Just have to point out Bob's recent email explained in detail his experience
and had a link to a video to try and help Fred.
Sam, your recent comment adds nothing, and simply announces your personal
frustration with the list. The list is off the "ebola" topic and still you're
still criticizing
Yeah, the only thing that is cheap on a sailboat is the owner! :)
Steve
- Original Message -
From: Sam Salter via CnC-List
To: CnC
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2014 8:58 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List ice or soda blasting
These are the same guys that just had a conversion about s
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