Hey folks,
I'm looking to add solar panels to my boat. I have a new hard top dodger
that will be a great place to mount some flexible panels. I realize that
attention will have to be given to the boom so that it's shadow it
minimized. I've given consideration to the fact that some shadow is lik
Josh:
You've certainly given this a lot of thought. Don't overthink or overbuild it.
KISS
If it were me, I'd go with two 100 watt panels back to a single $50 controller
and keep the wiring as simple as possible. Keep in mind you're talking about a
system that will deliver about 60 ah per da
Regarding the backflow valve and or check valve, it is not recommended to
install one. There is a great possibility that one day it will get dry algae
and will get stuck. Most likely this will happen when it is the last think you
want in your schedule.
Yanni
92 Lebaron 3.0 convertible
95 L
You might be well advised to look at Sailboat Owners forum, where this has been
discussed multiple times (e.g. here:
http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=1149325&highlight=solar%20panel).
Also, a good read here: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/solar_panel.
There are var
A lot of people don't like the rod, but there are few nice things about it.
For instance, it does not let water in like the wire braid does at the
swage. So there is no oxygen depleted water inside the fitting. Unlike the
swage, where you never know the conditions of stainless inside, rod is
easi
I agree with the other recommendation to reduce the number of solar panels,
rather than increasing it. I have (2) 100-watt Solbian flexible panels and
they work great but I am noticing that in the Fall when the days become
shorter, my generation is reduced. So, I will be adding another 100 wat
1st off - you can parallel them into one controller with only the very tiniest
loss of efficiency despite shadows.
2nd - many controllers out there are crap at best. Morningstar makes excellent
PWM and MPPT controllers. I have had great luck with mine. I would not even
consider cheap FleaBay con
Petar,
I will be removing my mast this fall when I haul the boat. I have no
knowledge of the history of maintenance on my rig and would like to have a
competent rigger take a look at it for me. For all I know everything on the
boat is original equipment, thus it is 40 years old. I have all rod
I've been very happy with my tiny sunsaver charger. I think 20 amps is about
$80. Probably not the best out there by any means but effective and reliable.
This really all comes down to what you're doing with the boat. Acceptable for
long term cruising is different from weekend sailing in the
1. Panels in a multi panel system with panels wired in parallel should have a
diode in series with each panel, but many panels come with an incorporated
diode and adding another one will just waste power. The manufacturer's
documentation will say it there is a diode incorporated since that is an
When I got the boat it had a Rule automatic pump that determined if there
was water by running on occasion and measuring if there is a resistance to
turn the impeller.. While it sounds smart in theory, in practice the
impeller gets gooked-up with normal bilge crap and gets hard to turn
whet
Nice product.
I had purchased a Rule 1500 autiomatic bilge pump to replace the manual
PAR 36680-2000 on our boat that had no float switch. Then I realized
the current pump has an extremely efficient pickup that takes almost all
of the water out of the bilge. Will be returning the Rule and h
The 35-1 has a very shallow bilge with a small volume sump just behind and
under the mast step. Touche' has a 1500 GPH Rule bilge pump tucked tightly
into a space behind the mast step. It's a tight fit.
With a large capacity pump and a small volume bilge, the issue of pump
cycling is very real.
Mike, much of this you probably know but I figured I would chime in for
everyone else.
The PAR pump you have is a belt driven diaphram pump that relies on inlet
and outlet check valves. These are great little pumps that can be run dry
and self prime up to ~5 feet above the water level. It is abl
Here's a very expensive solution
http://www.aridbilge.com
The nice thing is that it can handle up to 8 (IIRC) different little
spaces. So pockets of water between stringers or below limber holes can be
removed.
Very low flow rate though so it is just a finishing touch type of system.
Josh
On O
Jake,
Please add us to the list of recipients of your photos too.
Ron & Lisa
1986 35/3
Mr Bop
> On Oct 13, 2014, at 12:33 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Doug,
>
> How can you tell the forward keel bolt is leaking? Is there seepage from
> under the mast?
>
> I went throu
Hi All,
I have spent the last week sitting the couch recovering from a separated
shoulder from a mountain bike fall. ( I got distracted watching a fat little
black bear run away). This has given me way too much time on my hands and I
started reading about sail trim. If I can’t go fast on my bike
I put in an anti-backflow valve, but in an area of the bilge where it is easy
to get to (just under the floorboard). So, when it acts up, I can just take the
cap off the 'T' part of the valve and clean it out. Or, in the worst case, just
pull the whole thing - two hose clamps. I wanted the bilge
Does anyone know if the spray apron has balsa core?
Mine feels soft, but am unsure if it just feels soft because its thin. I
don't want to remove it if that's all it is.
Thanks
Steve Hood
S/V Diamond Girl
C&C 34
Lions Head ON
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This List is provi
Mine is just thin.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: "OldSteveH via CnC-List"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2014 4:53 PM
Subject: Stus-List C&C 34 Spray Apron
Does anyone know if the spray apron has balsa core?
Mine feels soft, but am unsure if it just feels soft because its thin. I
Burt
I use the same rigger as Petar and I must say he is top shelf. I had
the mast taken down at a marina near Fall River and He took the whole mast and
all the rigging to his shop to inspect and replace what was needed. Best money
I ever spent knowing that the rig is in good shape.
I recently drove through some National Parks in Western Canada, and I no longer
need my Discovery Pass. The pass is good for all the occupants in your vehicle,
and it expires in September 2015. I paid $136 CD ($128 US). I will sell it for
$80 CD ($75 US). If interested, contact me directly.
Al
OK I'll bite - what is a spray apron??
John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of OldSteveH
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2014 4:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 34
If you're talking about the spray coaming across the cabintop, on my 35-1
it was filled with foam.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Tue, Oct 14, 2014 at 3:53 PM, OldSteveH via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Does anyone know if the spray apron has balsa core?
> Mine feels
It's the screw-on cover over the sliding companionway hatch.
Mine is spongy to step on and it seems like it should be rigid. Am guessing
it needs core replacement?
Steve
-Original Message-
From: John and Maryann Read [mailto:johnpr...@comcast.net]
Sent: October-14-14 7:37 PM
To: 'OldSt
Mine is just fiberglass, it bows because it is only 3 of 4 MM thick.
I don't think the put any core in any of them. It would make it kind of
bulky.
Regards,
Bill Coleman
C&C39
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of OldSteveH
via CnC-List
Se
OK, that's the sea hood. Not sure if it's cored or not.
I just rebuilt one on a J35. It was cored with end grain balsa.
Easy enough to peel it from underneath and recore it.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Tue, Oct 14, 2014 at 7:31 PM, OldSteveH via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.c
Very interesting discussion...my LF38 came with a Jabsco WaterPuppy pump
mounted aft of the engine with a long hose and 90 degree strainer to the lowest
part of the blige...just aft of the mast. The bilge pump exit is just a few
feet up to port of the pump, just below the rubrail. A very effic
Don,
Here is a link to my keel R&R project:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/5p6cv1lr87l0dhi/AAATdMUKZ3wPPVxkO-LcCdSJa?dl=0
It should have plenty of mast step pics to satisfy everyone.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
“Midnight Mistress”
C&C 35 Mk-III
Hampton VA
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mail
Hi Steve,
Mine has a very thin wood core with an ultra thin layer of FRP covering that.
It too feels spongy to step on but the core is dry (as a bone?).
Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
At 05:31 PM 14/10/2014, you wrote:
It's the screw-on cover over the sliding companionway hatch
Thank you for the definition - I call it a hatch cover but that is east
coast
Had the same problem with ours that I fixed last winter. There is a design
flaw in that the screws go through balsa core. The eventual leaks saturate
the balsa causing delamination.
Fix is to remove the traveler, remo
Anybody happen to know what copper crush washers to buy for Yanmar 2gm20? The
banjo fittings on my secondary fuel filter is weeping. I'd prefer not to take
it apart to find out since we are out on the boat so often. Like to have therm
in hand before starting the replacement. There may be others
Butyl Tape or 4200? Lewmar hatch though not sure that matters.
Thanks
Kevin
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