Thanks Joe. I'll take a look at SSY. Nice to know that it is not a major
repair.
Regards,
Rick Jorgensen
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe at
Zialater via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 3, 2014 8:59 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subjec
I have the exact same ports on my 35. It isn't too bad of a job. I even cut my
own ports by tracing the old ones on the new plexi. I upgraded from 1/8 to 1/4
plexi just to be safe, but I will say the old ones withstood some pretty rough
service with breaking waves washing over the boat.
Joe Del
Chuck,
I don’t think it needs to be dry in there. A small hole in the bottom
of the keel will drain whatever is in there every time the boat is hauled.
All the best,
Edd
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Listers,
I’m considering bringing the Enterprise to the C&C Northeast Rendezvous
this September in Newport from Western Long Island Sound (The rendezvous keeps
moving further and further east and I fear the next time, I’ll have to set my
clocks ahead an hour to attend.)
Does an
Hi Edd- I am a member and moored at Thames Yacht Club in New London and we have
transient mooring and dock space for a small fee. I plan on going as well so
we might even be able to head over together. Dave
Dr. David Knecht
Professor, Molecular and Cell Biology
Light Microscopy Core Facility D
David,
Looks like a great stop — and it would be fun to head over to Newport
together.
Will try to keep up with you.
All the best,
Edd
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
I'll be coming from Three Mile Harbor. Port Jeff has public moorings and
Moorings are also available from the Setauket Yacht Club for $40. Jerry. J&J.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jun 4, 2014, at 2:34 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
Hi All,
I made a stupid newbie mistake when we stepped the mast. In my defence it
was a busy, windy, choppy day and we had to hire a crane to come to the
club to step everyone's mast .. and I helped everyone, so when it came time
to do my boat I was kind of on autopilot. We stepped 29 masts that d
Steve - I haven’t done this on a boat as big as yours, but in the past we have
taken a line from the butt of the mast forward to a snatch block and then back
to a winch and grind it forward. Not really as hard as it sounds. Obviously
get the rig loose first, etc.Hope that helps.
Fr
You really should use spartite or some other type urethane like Wally
showed, it makes this all so simple. If you make the right form B$ you
pour, you can make a drip edge and it will keep the water out. (I will do
this next time 8^) )
Regarding your mast step, that is no problem, as long as it i
Thanks guys, I was hoping it would be simple and doable. I'll see what I
can get accomplished today after work. As it turns out, I'm also testing a
new time lapse camera that I'll be placing on the breakwall today (I'm on a
three-point mooring right behind the breakwall, nice view). Hopefully you
w
Steve:
In my 35-1 I have used a come-a-long inside the boat using a 2x4 to span
between appropriate places inside as a bracing point for one end of the
come-a-long. The other end connected to a rope tied loosely around the
base of the mast. It was not a problem when the rigging is slack.
Don
All,
Please be patient with us...we are trying to work through a tiny detail about
insurance and locating at SailNewport.
The dates are still firm for September 19, 20 & 21.
FYI...Edd has already volunteered to coordinate next years rendezvous to be
held in Western Long Island Sound.
Thank
After reading a few posts of rudder failure on C&C 24s, I thought I should
look into mine.
It seems solid, but how do I know without drilling into it? There is a crack
in the fiberglass at the top of the rudder,
but I can¹t tell how far in it goes unless I dig into it. Any thoughts on
exploratory s
t, CT (Night 6)
>
>Prefer places that are picturesque with dining choices within walking
> distance. Only need 5 feet of depth (which you know if you?ve been following
> the other thread).
>
>
>All the best,
>
>Edd
>
>
>Edd M. Schillay
>
Do you dry it out over the winter? If no, try a moisture meter to check. My 27
has drain plugs I installed to dry out over the Ontario winter..
-Original Message-
From: "Ed Dooley via CnC-List"
Sent: 2014-06-04 5:00 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Subject: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder que
mine is a black cable it's a 10 foot by 75.
On May 27, 2014 3:26 PM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List"
wrote:
> Or go to your reputable auto parts store with the old cable. A Teledyne
> cable is a Teledyne cable. And probably less at the auto parts store than
> at a boat supplier - and more likely to be
Hi Edd
Lots of great spots in the Noank / Mystic area and we have lots of good
restaurants nearby. Same for Stonington or New London
Cheers
John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay via CnC-L
Steve,
Others have given you good advice. Just count the turns on the shrouds as you
loosen the rig. Use a pry bar to move it forward. No biggie.
I put shims under my mast by loosening the rig, placing a vehicle jack under a
winch, lifting it and sliding the shims under the butt.
Dennis C.
Don't forget a lucky coin!
-Original Message-
From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List"
Sent: 2014-06-04 8:56 PM
To: "Stevan Plavsa" ; "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Subject: Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast
Steve,
Others have given you good advice. Just count the turns on the shrouds as you
loose
Thanks all. I used a pipe wrench and a piece of wood as a cushion and
'drove her home' (after taking any tension out of the rig). Worked out
a-ok. Then I turned my attention to the binnacle and compass. Anyone know
where a guy can get light mineral oil? I tried the pharmacy but all they
had was hea
West marine sells ritchie compass oil.
On Jun 4, 2014 11:40 PM, "Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List"
wrote:
> Thanks all. I used a pipe wrench and a piece of wood as a cushion and
> 'drove her home' (after taking any tension out of the rig). Worked out
> a-ok. Then I turned my attention to the binnacle a
No, It's hanging on the stern, outside, for a Vermont winter, 5 winters in a
row since I've bought the boat. A moisture meter implies gouging a hole through
the fiberglass. Is that what you're suggesting?
Ed
> On Jun 4, 2014, at 7:21 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Do you dry it out
Water heaters are good breeding grounds for bacteria. The anode and
scale/sediment can harbor the bacteria and make any form of draining and
filling ineffective.
Aluminum/zinc anodes are less likely to harbor the bacteria and thorough
removal of the sediment will help.
Much of the bacteria will
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