Water heaters are good breeding grounds for bacteria.  The anode and
scale/sediment can harbor the bacteria and make any form of draining and
filling ineffective.

Aluminum/zinc anodes are less likely to harbor the bacteria and thorough
removal of the sediment will help.

Much of the bacteria will be killed at temperatures over 160°F.  Take
whatever precausions are needed to prevent scalding.  I installed a thermal
mixing valve on mine to keep the water at the fixtures ~120 and keep the
heating element temperature set nearly as high as it will go.  More hot
water is a nice added advantage.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
 On Jun 3, 2014 2:25 PM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If this water heater is like what I have, it should have the "input" and
> "output" hoses. If you disconnect them, you can rig a simple flushing
> solution (garden hose from the dock to the input and another hose out to
> the water). Any chemical solution would probably do (chlorine, lemon juice
> + soda, etc.)
>
> The major problem is, usually, access. So be prepared for a lot of scraped
> skin off your knuckles.
>
> Good luck
>
> Marek
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Dave Lane via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2014 12:14 PM
> To: via CnC-List
> Subject: Stus-List Skanky hot water
>
> Hi,
>
> On our 29-2, the hot water has been skanky (technical work for "it
> smells some") for years and I'd like to do something about if finally.
> The fresh water system is fine. It's a cube shaped 5 gallon unit that
> pre-dates our ownership of the boat. It is dual electric and engine hot
> water heated.
>
> Any suggestions on how I can flush it? Javex maybe? Clearly I don't want
> to do anything to wreck the cold water system.
>
> --- Dave
> 83 C&C 29-2
> St Margaret Sailing Club, NS
>
>
>
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