I have two tanks. One under the starboard berth and a second under the
V-berth, all the way forward (it’s always empty too).
Jake
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron Kaye
Sent: Monday, August 05, 2013 10:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-l
On my c & C 32, I have large tank under port settee, and a smaller tank under
forward berth. Interesting that the forward tank can empty into the larger
port tank, unless a connecting valve between the two is closed. Dan Mc
From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-
Personally, I would like to see pictures of any boat interiors that owners are
willing to share. Everyone has great ideas and I want to see them.
Bev Genader Bob Morgan
C&C 37 Stonington CT
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.
My holding tank is under the vee berth. Where is yours?
Joel
35/3
On Aug 6, 2013, at 5:53 AM, Jake Brodersen wrote:
I have two tanks. One under the starboard berth and a second under the
V-berth, all the way forward (it’s always empty too).
Jake
*From:* CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...
I had an identical thing happen to me. A new cap was not the answer. A
new fitting was the answer.
The cap and fitting are both aluminum, which doesn't seem to like sewer
gasses all that much.
Since I was tossing the fitting, I think I just unscrewed it from the
deck and slipped/pryed the hose off
On my C&C 35, I have one fresh water tank under the port settee. It
holds 28 gallons. The boat specs say she carries 40 gallons. I wonder
if there was another tank under the dinette. Has anyone installed
extra water tanks, and if so, what was the source? We want to take her
for an extended cruise
Richard
My 35-3 does have 2 water tanks- the large one (28 gals) is under the
starboard settee(your settee is to port?) and the smaller (14 gals is) is
under the Dinette outboard on the port side. There is a manifold to switch
between -(looks like gardenia outdoor watering stuff) and the water pu
I have a holding tank under the foreward part (half?) of the v-berth, with
no extra water tank. Anything aft of there would cover the transducers -
so I'm also interested in what's where.
Thanks,
Tim
Mojito - 35/3
On Tue, Aug 6, 2013 at 7:58 AM, Joel Aronson wrote:
> My holding tank is under
Holding tank under the forward V. Water tank port under the dinette settee.
Another under the starboard settee. A valve in the small cabinet under the
drawers forward of the Nav table selects the water tank in use.
'86 35/3
Ron
On Aug 6, 2013, at 8:43 AM, Tim Goodyear wrote:
> I have a
The brochure lists 2 water tanks and a holding tank. Don't know why some
are different.
Joel
On Aug 6, 2013, at 9:04 AM, Ron Kaye wrote:
Holding tank under the forward V. Water tank port under the dinette
settee. Another under the starboard settee. A valve in the small cabinet
under the dr
I replaced the overhead panels on my 29-2 last year. Originals were 1/8
plywood covered with vinyl that had discoloured and peeled up along the
edges. Replaced them with new 1/8 plywood covered with thin "iron on"
laminate. The product is called "Preglued Melamine - Architectural Grade
Veneer" made
Keith,
The hose is probably original (its red), so the stuck cap becomes a much
larger project. When I used the hammer, the metal looked like bronze. Its
still stuck. The O ring should be preventing the Blaster from getting
where it needs to be. I ordered a replacement cap (appears to be nylon
same setup in my 87 mk 3 c/b
,MaggieLee
-Original Message-
From: Ron Kaye
To: cnc-list
Cc: cnc-list
Sent: Tue, Aug 6, 2013 9:04 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 35, additional water tank
Holding tank under the forward V. Water tank port under the dinette settee.
Another under the s
Indigo only has one water tank (under starboard settee). The holding tank
occupies the forward part of the space under the v-berth. I rather like being
able to store heavy food and drink items under the long dinette seat, my spares
kits in the forward end locker and pots and pans in the aft end
Just a thought but could your vent be blocked causing pressure that would
hinder opening of the cap? Taking off the inspection cover might help.
I had a stuck holding tank cap a few years ago ( mine have the two holes for
the wrench). I loosened it by tapping it with a screwdriver held as horiz
I have a 35 III and when I purchased it it came with only one water tank under
the Starboard Settee (30 gal). I since have added in two smaller water tanks on
the port side connected through a manifold - one tank is 13 gal, the other is 9
gal. For long trips I also add a portable 5 gal tank. We
Get a piece of bar stock. Drill and tap two stainless machine screws to make a
new bigger deck key.
B
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 6, 2013, at 11:19 AM, Indigo wrote:
> Just a thought but could your vent be blocked causing pressure that would
> hinder opening of the cap? Taking off the inspect
Dennis,
What sort of stock? It needs to be strong but drill-able.
I cracked open the Y Valve to relieve any pressure.
On Tue, Aug 6, 2013 at 1:41 PM, Dennis C. wrote:
> Get a piece of bar stock. Drill and tap two stainless machine screws to
> make a new bigger deck key.
>
> B
>
> Sent from m
Maybe 1/4 inch aluminum? The machine screws will have to be really short so
they don't bend.
For a quick and dirty strong deck key, try a pair of needle nose pliers.with a
big screwdriver between the jaws.
Dennis C.
>
> From: Joel Aronson
>To: "cnc-list@cnc-
Ya'Know, you get a big enough lever and you are going to shear off those
3/16" fasteners - if they are like mine, anyway. By now you have probably
already broken the seal to the deck, so just take the screws out and take
the hose off and work on it in the shop, or better yet replace it. Sounds a
Joel;
By the time you make a deck key and get the old cap out, you will probably
have the same expense and even more labor invested than if you replaced the
deck fitting completely.
A new stainless steel deck fitting complete with a new deck key is $9.99 on
E-Bay (plus shipping from New Jer
How did I forget eBay?
Joel Aronson
On Aug 6, 2013, at 3:43 PM, Rick Brass wrote:
Joel;
By the time you make a deck key and get the old cap out, you will probably
have the same expense and even more labor invested than if you replaced the
deck fitting completely.
A new stainless steel de
Last fitting I had that got stuck got replaced after I got it loose and it got
stuck AGAIN!
Joe Della Barba
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 3:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Waste fitting stuck
J
Got the engine running, so I could shift the mast over to work on the step.
(BTW trouble was in the battery cables; corrosion inside the sheathing).
I have only two supports and the oak plank I used bowed in the middle; probably
because I didn't seal the edges well enough and water wicked in. I
Ok, I re-worked the picture size so hopefully it will go through. The panels
are FRP from Home Depot and the paint is Interlux Brightside blu-glow white.
Light is temporary until I find something I like. A friend made the mast wrap.
Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault
From: broo.
Rick,
That's what I would do but Joel will have a LOT more fun trying to get the damn
thing unscrewed. :)
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandevile, LA
>
> From: Rick Brass
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Sent: Tuesday, August 6, 2013 2:42 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List
I¹ve been able to buy many scrap pieces of marine plywood from our local
boat shop. They¹ve always pro-rated it
from a full sheet. Maple is a terrible choice around moisture. I know you
plan to seal it, but the my 2 cents for the best choice would be
use a good rot resistant wood, solid or ply, and
Greetings,
INDIGO has wooden oars in the Avon dinghy. They sit in the dink bottom and,
consequently, are prone to sitting in water. The original crappy varnish has
come off. Is there any painting process that can bear up to the occasional (and
possible!) Long-term dunking? Is my only alternativ
For the cross support, instead of wood, why not build two little dams and pour
a two inch thick filler of epoxy. I added epoxy to the top of my supports
instead of wood (the originals were soggy so I ground them down to good wood).
A barrier on each side made the pour easy.
How thick is your ma
On my MKI there was a stainless plate sitting on top of the glassed in
bilge supports and under the wood block. The stainless plate actually
slid in and sat just under the cabin sole. It had holes drilled in it that
the mast step lag bolts went through and into the wooden supports
underneath. ...
Maple is not very rot resistant, but oak is.
There is a reason why oak was the material of choice for ship building.
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Ronald B.
Frerker
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 4:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subj
As always Google has the answer.
http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Design/Nature_of_Wood/3_Wood_Strength/3_Wood_Strength.htm#strengthchart
Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault
From: Steve Thomas
Date: 6 August, 2013 19:15:01 EDT
To:
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 mast step
There's a reason boatbuilders switched from wood to fiberglass. Less
deterioration over time and almost no maintenance.
FWIW, I'd make the step out of starboard or fiberglass cloth and epoxy fillers.
An aluminum bearing plate on top, would spread the load and be nice insurance
against point lo
I'm all for using wood for many things, but it seems to me that the amount of
stress the mast step is subjected to is a good reason to build the replacement
out of aluminum. Any small welding shop should be able to fabricate a
substitute for the original wood structure at very little cost that c
Joel,
My holding tank is under the v-berth as well. It is a flexible tank. The
water tank is built into a recessed area of the v-berth, above and forward
of the holding tank.
Jake
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson
Sent: Tuesday, August 06,
Paint is much more durable_ unless you are a traditionalist, in which case I
would suggest you strip them and coat with West System, then varnish or clear
coat.
Bill Coleman
Original message
From: Richard Walter
Date: 08/06/2013 6:04 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-lis
Richard,
Strip the varnish and coat them with clear epoxy, then 4-5 coats of varnish.
They will stay dry and look great. They epoxy will keep the water out and
the varnish will make them shine. I used the same process on my cutting
board in the galley. Great results.
Jake
Jake Broder
Touché's step is an aluminum box made from 1.5 inch angles sitting on a solid
block of fiberglass. It will exist for millennia.
Make sure you measure everything to a good reference point.
FYI, white oak would be one of my choices. When encapsulating it, consider
using epoxy thickened with micr
White oak is, red oak, not so much.
Ed
From: Steve Thomas
Maple is not very rot resistant, but oak is.
There is a reason why oak was the material of choice for ship building.
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Ronald B.
Frerker
Sent: Tue
Hi,
I would Deks Olje #1 not a varnish, not like a teak oil, it saturates the wood
and can be used above or below the waterline. Deks Olje #2 can then be applied
to give the aspect of varnished wood but is not recommended below the water
line.
I did all my external wood trim ( teak & Ipe ) thi
Note to Joel: Going forward, try to pump out at least once a year.
(Thank goodness for the Y-valve!)
;-)
Cheers
Colin
On 8/6/13, Dennis C. wrote:
> Rick,
>
> That's what I would do but Joel will have a LOT more fun trying to get the
> damn thing unscrewed. :)
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
I'd reposition the oars so they didn't sit in the water all the time :)
Even if they were bungee corded from the seat/handle or propped up on
something, it would cut down on the amount of potential damage and
therefore the amount of work you have to put into maintaining them.
Cheers,
Paul.
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