>
> Peter Fell
> Sidney, BC
> Cygnet
> C&C 27 MkIII
>
>
> From: Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, February 08, 2016 10:47 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Stevan Plavsa ; Rick Bushie
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1
&
boat with Home Depot
specials!
Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII
From: Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2016 10:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stevan Plavsa ; Rick Bushie
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1
The scupper thru-hulls
The scupper thru-hulls were the only ones I left alone on Suhana. I
replaced all else with seacocks, new backing plates and new thru-hulls.
Like yours, mine were flush mounted. The stuff on the market is smaller so
I filled the remaining gap with thickened epoxy, mostly successful (looks a
bit off
Anchovy got all new through hull fittings and proper seacocks four years ago. I
bought everything, including flush fitting through hulls from Deep Blue Yacht
Supply. I used a small diamond cutting wheel on my Rotozip to cut out the old
fittings.
Rick Bushie
Anchovy, 30-1, Hull 1
Worton, MD.
Se
bed with a
proper ball valve.
Gary
#593
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joseph
Bognar via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 6, 2016 9:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joseph Bognar
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 3
Joe : send me your e mail off list . jbog...@sympatico.ca I did this last
summer and I have photos. I found the thru hulls and ball valves at my
chandlery . I did not need to replace the thru hull . I just had to re bed it
and make a new backing plate
Sent from Joe Bognar
> On Feb 6, 2016, a
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2016 3:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1
It's a step wrench. Defender sells them iirc.
On Saturday, February 6, 2016, Chuck S via CnC-List
wrote:
Th
old the outside part while tightening the inside flange.
>
>
> --
> *From: *"Antoine Rose via CnC-List" >
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> *Cc: *"Antoine Rose" >
> *Sent: *Saturday, February 6, 2016 6:05:10 PM
> *Subje
c-list.com
Cc: "Antoine Rose"
Sent: Saturday, February 6, 2016 6:05:10 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1
I've done it on mine. Don't touch the flange, it's the best part. Inside the
flange hole there are two notches to help you hold it wh
I've done it on mine. Don't touch the flange, it's the best part. Inside the
flange hole there are two notches to help you hold it while unscrewing. Buy a
cheap socket (for ratchets) of the same size of the inside hole. Then grind a
slot to allow the socket to slide in and lock itself on the not
Bacons in Annapolis have old parts like this as I recall--its worth checking
anyway.
Bob
Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer
> On Feb 6, 2016, at 5:39 PM, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Howdy Listers,
>
> I am replacing the through hull cockpit drains on my 30 MK1. This project
> st
Howdy Listers,
I am replacing the through hull cockpit drains on my 30 MK1. This project
started with replacing the old gate valves - and it has sort of expanded
(shall we say) from there. Mission creep!
The flange measures 3.5 inches on the outside of the hull with a 1.25
diameter hole. The
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