Fantastic info! Thanks.
Any idea in the dimension for core material for the cored deck portions,
thickness, and material choices?
Sent from my iPhone
> On Sep 4, 2018, at 12:34 PM, Francois Rivard via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Hi James,
>
> I would remove some of the deck hardware around t
Hi James,
I would remove some of the deck hardware around the mast and double check.
I don't believe that the coachwork area is cored and where you see the
issues it's than likely just compression damage on the Coromat. I.E I'm
fairly confident that there's no rot and you could more than likely e
: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck core repair advice sought
Hi James
We used to own a J Boat (J/27) and it was very routine to replace deck core.
We previously had a Hinterhoeller built and designed Niagara 26 where we had to
recore large areas around both
Persistence
1987 Frers 33 #16
Halifax, NS
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of James Bibb
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2018 9:26 PM
To: Chuck S via CnC-List
Cc: James Bibb
Subject: Stus-List Deck core repair advice sought
I have
I did mine from above, as gravity helps and my deck had a few depressions where
water puddled and mold grew. I needed to add some camber to the deck to avoid
future puddles, so cutting the deck from above seemed better.
> On September 1, 2018 at 7:54 PM James Bibb via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
>
I assume the construction of the 34/36 and the 37/40 aren't that different
so have a look at the construction drawings and other info at the link
below for some insight on layups, etc.
Ken H.
http://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/the-new-c-37-1988-c-3740-photos-c-3740.html?m=1
On Saturday, 1 Septembe
Thanks Chuck.
I’d like to follow your experience. Are you attacking this from the top or
bottom? It’s getting into the late summer up here in SE Alaska and I’m trying
to gauge whether this is doable in the off-season. Clear, warm weather is hard
to come by up here. I could tent and heat
Hi James,
I replaced balsa core on my 34R around my mast collar back in 2007. I have to
look on an older computer for my pictures. I wound up making a G10 boss around
the deck opening and epoxying a 1/4" sleeve around the opening to protect the
balsa from water.
I find kevlar in every part of t
I use gray self fusing silicon tape for a mast boot. See:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsUnBoN2F2Y0xkcmc
It's nearly 10 years old now and going strong.
I have done several deck "peels" to replace core. A vibrating saw like a
Fein Multimaster or Dremel Multi Max is your best frie
A "Lawn-Guy-Lander" being irascible? Never happen
>From my Android
From: CnC-List on behalf of Josh Muckley via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2018 10:03:18 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck core repair
I know the R is stripped down but no inner fiberglass tray to hide wires
and lights?
Josh
On Fri, Aug 31, 2018, 9:19 PM James Bibb via CnC-List
wrote:
> Thanks Josh! I bet we have a similar deck as well. This helps me out.
>
> I have no head liner…beauty of the stripped down version so I have
Thanks Josh! I bet we have a similar deck as well. This helps me out.
I have no head liner…beauty of the stripped down version so I have everything
accessible.
Thanks.
> On Aug 31, 2018, at 5:05 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Mine is a 37+ but I presume that much of the
Mine is a 37+ but I presume that much of the design and construction is
similar.
The design notes regarding Kevlar have it as part of the layup. I think Ken
Heaton might have a better idea but the idea is that the Kevlar simply
makes up some of the layers of matting/roving in the fiberglass. I wou
I have some soft deck repair anticipated around my mast opening…above head on
port cabin leading edge where folks jump the halyards and foredeck area where
the bowman has been working since 1991.
1991 C&C 34-36R so the deck is composite. I assume also of the most part
however the brief design
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