I did mine from above, as gravity helps and my deck had a few depressions where water puddled and mold grew. I needed to add some camber to the deck to avoid future puddles, so cutting the deck from above seemed better.
> On September 1, 2018 at 7:54 PM James Bibb via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Thanks Chuck. > > I’d like to follow your experience. Are you attacking this from the top > or bottom? It’s getting into the late summer up here in SE Alaska and I’m > trying to gauge whether this is doable in the off-season. Clear, warm > weather is hard to come by up here. I could tent and heat but my thought is > to heat the interior even though I’ve been reading about how difficult it is > to do working underneath. > > Thanks again for the follow up. > > James Bibb. > > > > > > On Sep 1, 2018, at 3:12 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: > > > > Hi James, > > I replaced balsa core on my 34R around my mast collar back in 2007. > > I have to look on an older computer for my pictures. I wound up making a > > G10 boss around the deck opening and epoxying a 1/4" sleeve around the > > opening to protect the balsa from water. > > > > I find kevlar in every part of the boat though many people tell me > > it isn't required in a small patch. The stringers under the floor had at > > least six layers of kevlar alternating with glass and mat making 13 to 15 > > layers total. The solid vertical parts of the cockpit and transom have > > glass, mat, glass, mat, kevlar, mat kevlar, mat, glass, mat, glass. The > > deck has 3/4" balsa and a layup that I think is glass, mat, kevlar, mat, > > glass above and below. That gives two layers of kevlar to the composite > > structure. If you follow best practices and grind the skin to a 12:1 bevel > > recommended by West System you will see the layers. > > > > I'll try to find pictures and send them to your email. > > > > Good luck with your project. I have about six feet of each of my > > side decks to do this fall. > > > > > > > > > On August 31, 2018 at 9:05 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: > > > > > > Mine is a 37+ but I presume that much of the design and > > > construction is similar. > > > > > > The design notes regarding Kevlar have it as part of the > > > layup. I think Ken Heaton might have a better idea but the idea is that > > > the Kevlar simply makes up some of the layers of matting/roving in the > > > fiberglass. I would expect it in the hull and would not be surprised to > > > see it in the deck. Hard to say if it would be preferentially placed in > > > the inner or outer skin. > > > > > > As for the core, I was anticipating deck rot when I had my > > > mast pulled. To my pleasant surprise the cabin top directly around the > > > mast is not cored. Throughout the boat you can see where coring starts > > > and stops by the thickness changing. A perfect example is near the toe > > > rail. There is a 3" wide deck section all the way around the boat. I > > > thought it was just a gutter. It is, but it is also an area which is not > > > cored. Same thing in the anchor locker as the hull walls approach the > > > toe rail. Repairs from in the cabin have the challenge of not having > > > direct access to the cabin top since there is a "headliner". You can > > > inspect and get an idea of what lies ahead but in order to re-core you > > > would want unfettered access to the entire area of rot. You'd be best > > > cut around the rim to remove the entire headliner. I do like the idea of > > > not disturbing the outer skin. If you end up going the outside route I > > > suggest trying to keep as much of the skin together as a single piece or > > > symmetrical pieces. A product I like that can finish off this type of > > > work is kiwi-grip. It is a urethane non-skid with a thick coat and > > > variable texture. It covers seams in the skins great. > > > > > > Rig-rit sells mast boot tape which I like. Black 2mm thick, > > > 5' wide. http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Mast_boot_%20Tape.php > > > > > > As much as I liked the product, when I had my mast re-stepped > > > the yard used what they had and it seemed like almost exactly the same > > > except that it was even wider - Like 6 or 7 inches. Call Zanhizers in > > > Solomons MD and they can probably send you a roll. You might have to > > > talk to Phil or Jack. > > > > > > Josh Muckley > > > S/V Sea Hawk > > > 1989 C&C 37+ > > > Solomons, MD > > > > > > > > > > > > On Fri, Aug 31, 2018, 8:27 PM James Bibb via CnC-List < > > > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > I have some soft deck repair anticipated around > > > my mast opening…above head on port cabin leading edge where folks jump > > > the halyards and foredeck area where the bowman has been working since > > > 1991. > > > > > > > > 1991 C&C 34-36R so the deck is composite. I assume also > > > > of the most part however the brief design notes mention a mixture of > > > > kevlar and balsa. Does anybody know where the distinction is around > > > > the boat? > > > > > > > > I’ll be removing the mast for this work. > > > > > > > > Also…from below or above? I really want to leave the > > > > gelcoat intake and if I can work on the boat over the next few > > > > months…have the heated cabin environment to help curing. > > > > > > > > Anybody been down this road? > > > > > > > > Also….need to find a replacement mast boot. The > > > > current one is worn and needs replacing. > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks! > > > > > > > > James Bibb > > > > > > > > SV Darwins Folly > > > > 1991 C&C 34-36R > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your > > > > contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want > > > > to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- > > > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your > > > contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to > > > support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- > > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. > > Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list > > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > >
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