I know the R is stripped down but no inner fiberglass tray to hide wires
and lights?

Josh

On Fri, Aug 31, 2018, 9:19 PM James Bibb via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Thanks Josh!  I bet we have a similar deck as well.  This helps me out.
>
> I have no head liner…beauty of the stripped down version so I have
> everything accessible.
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
> On Aug 31, 2018, at 5:05 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Mine is a 37+ but I presume that much of the design and construction is
> similar.
>
> The design notes regarding Kevlar have it as part of the layup. I think
> Ken Heaton might have a better idea but the idea is that the Kevlar simply
> makes up some of the layers of matting/roving in the fiberglass. I would
> expect it in the hull and would not be surprised to see it in the deck.
> Hard to say if it would be preferentially placed in the inner or outer skin.
>
> As for the core, I was anticipating deck rot when I had my mast pulled.
> To my pleasant surprise the cabin top directly around the mast is not
> cored.  Throughout the boat you can see where coring starts and stops by
> the thickness changing.  A perfect example is near the toe rail.  There is
> a 3" wide deck section all the way around the boat.  I thought it was just
> a gutter.  It is, but it is also an area which is not cored.  Same thing in
> the anchor locker as the hull walls approach the toe rail.  Repairs from in
> the cabin have the challenge of not having direct access to the cabin top
> since there is a "headliner".  You can inspect and get an idea of what lies
> ahead but in order to re-core you would want unfettered access to the
> entire area of rot.  You'd be best cut around the rim to remove the entire
> headliner.  I do like the idea of not disturbing the outer skin.  If you
> end up going the outside route I suggest trying to keep as much of the skin
> together as a single piece or symmetrical pieces.  A product I like that
> can finish off this type of work is kiwi-grip.  It is a urethane non-skid
> with a thick coat and variable texture.  It covers seams in the skins great.
>
> Rig-rit sells mast boot tape which I like.  Black 2mm thick, 5' wide.
> http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Mast_boot_%20Tape.php
>
> As much as I liked the product, when I had my mast re-stepped the yard
> used what they had and it seemed like almost exactly the same except that
> it was even wider - Like 6 or 7 inches.  Call Zanhizers in Solomons MD and
> they can probably send you a roll.  You might have to talk to Phil or Jack.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Fri, Aug 31, 2018, 8:27 PM James Bibb via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I have some soft deck repair anticipated around my mast opening…above
>> head on port cabin leading edge where folks jump the halyards and foredeck
>> area where the bowman has been working since 1991.
>>
>> 1991 C&C 34-36R so the deck is composite. I assume also of the most part
>> however the brief design notes mention a mixture of kevlar and balsa.  Does
>> anybody know where the distinction is around the boat?
>>
>> I’ll be removing the mast for this work.
>>
>> Also…from below or above?  I really want to leave the gelcoat intake and
>> if I can work on the boat over the next few months…have the heated cabin
>> environment to help curing.
>>
>> Anybody been down this road?
>>
>> Also….need to find a replacement mast boot.  The current one is worn and
>> needs replacing.
>>
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> James Bibb
>>
>> SV Darwins Folly
>> 1991 C&C 34-36R
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