David,
When I bought my 35-1 the raw water thru hull valve was flopping around
(boat was on the hard). The original installation had just a small
piece of plywood between the flange and the inside of the hull which
came loose. I epoxied a piece of 1/2" thick McMaster Carr g-glass on
the ins
Our 1970 Redwing 35 (Hull #7) had gate valves for the cockpit scuppers.
I never planned to close the cockpit scuppers so I made sure that I had
wooden plugs available in the event of a hose failure. Our new(er) C&C
35-3 has proper seacocks. I still don't close the scupper seacocks and
still
From: CnC-List on behalf of Chuck Gilchrest via
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 5:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest
Subject: Re: Stus-List Changing seacock values
David,
When I did the same job on my 75 25 Mk 1 many years ago, I simply unscrewed the
gate valves from
David,
When I did the same job on my 75 25 Mk 1 many years ago, I simply unscrewed
the gate valves from the through hulls and brought the valve with me to my
marine retailer and matched the threads to reinstall the new valves.. Since
most through hulls are bonded to the hull using some impenetrab
While she's on the hard, I plan to replace the seacock gate valves with ball
values on our '75 C&C 30 MK1. Can anyone offer the benefit of experience in
doing so? Are there tricks to stabilizing the through-hull fitting while
unscrewing the old valves? Is it best to replace the entire through-hull
