David,
When I bought my 35-1 the raw water thru hull valve was flopping around
(boat was on the hard). The original installation had just a small
piece of plywood between the flange and the inside of the hull which
came loose. I epoxied a piece of 1/2" thick McMaster Carr g-glass on
the inside of the hull with nuts epoxied in recesses on the underside of
the plate, then put on an integral thru hull/valve. Something like this:
https://marinehowto.com/seacock-backing-plates/
Wound up doing it to all the others except the two way back under the
steering cockpit, which I'll get to some day. May be overkill but I
didn't want more of them coming loose.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 12/10/2019 3:21 PM, David Morris via CnC-List wrote:
While she’s on the hard, I plan to replace the seacock gate valves
with ball values on our ‘75 C&C 30 MK1. Can anyone offer the benefit
of experience in doing so? Are there tricks to stabilizing the
through-hull fitting while unscrewing the old valves? Is it best to
replace the entire through-hull fitting?
With thanks,
David
David J. Morris, MBA
President, D.J. Morris & Associates Ltd.
24 St. Paul’s Place, Kingston, ON K7M 7S3**
Tel. 613-531-4429
email: djmor...@djma-ltd.com
Member: Professional Writers Association of Canada
Blogging at: http://davidmorrisjourneys.wordpress.com/
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_______________________________________________
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
