Rick Brass [mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net]
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2013 8:05 PM
To: 'coltrek'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: RE: Stus-List winterizing engine "hose rig"
Bill;
Having the strainer below the waterline is pretty much the normal
installation. If the top
Jack,
the “T” is a non-issue; the water pressure from the garden hose might be.
There is no way the water can enter through the intake through hull and flow
across the engine to the muffler (the static pressure there is about 0.05 atm
(<1 psi)). But a water under pressure (municipal water suppl
-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of coltrek
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2013 6:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List winterizing engine "hose rig"
My strainer is below the waterline, but then it goes into a siphon break, which
is above the waterline. Isn't that w
l open while sailing, and on
> long trips, and I’ve never had a problem with the diesel flooding.
>
> Jack Brennan
> Former C&C 25
> Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
> Tierra Verde, Fl.
>
> *From:* Marek Dziedzic
> *Sent:* Monday, November 18, 2013 1:32 PM
> *To:* c
f the water after stopping
the engine and avoid the risk.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ
- Original Message -
From: "Jack Brennan"
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2013 6:34:58 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List winterizing engine "hos
-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List winterizing engine "hose rig"
Aren’t water strainers commonly positioned above the waterline near the
centerline of the boat? I know mine is. That should keep any raw water from
entering the diesel. The T fitting would be a non-issue.
I routinely lea
, and I’ve never had a problem with the diesel flooding.
Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.
From: Marek Dziedzic
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2013 1:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List winterizing engine "hose rig"
Hi Chuck,
I
34R
Atlantic City, NJ
- Original Message -
From: "Marek Dziedzic"
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2013 1:32:24 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List winterizing engine "hose rig"
Hi Chuck,
I have seen this “tee” arrangement on many boats, but I
Hi Chuck,
I have seen this “tee” arrangement on many boats, but I was advised that it is
an easy way to flood the engine with water. If your water pump does not stop
the water flow (and it does not have to), you can easily overflow the muffler
and the mixing elbow and fill the cylinder(s) with
l Coleman"
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2013 2:15:31 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List winterizing engine
That is definitely a better alternative to what I do, it's just that my
strainer is behind the engine, and if I did that I would be disemboweled by
the alter
Dwight,
I don’t intend on bragging, but we are normally about 7-10 C colder in winter
than you are.
I lived by the sea for many years and I know how the extra wind chill and
humidity can feel, but for the hard freeze of the water it does not matter that
much.
I know that the 20 l of antifre
My Pearson had a tee and a second seacock and piece of hose to make
Winterizing easy.
Joel
On Friday, November 15, 2013, Della Barba, Joe wrote:
> My boat has a T on the inlet and one hose goes to the engine and one to
> the wash-down pump. To winterize I just shut off the thru-hull and pull the
My boat has a T on the inlet and one hose goes to the engine and one to the
wash-down pump. To winterize I just shut off the thru-hull and pull the hose
off the wash-down pump and stick it in a bucket with anti-freeze in it. The
following only applies to raw water cooled engines, so all the FWC
did that I would be disemboweled by
> the alternator!
>
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Eric
> Frank
> Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2013 10:47 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
&
rank
Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2013 10:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List winterizing engine
A possible simplification of Bill's Groco Strainer solution?
For the last couple of years I have just taken the lid off the Groco
Strainer and poured in antifreeze as the water
water pump pumped it out. Needs to
>> stay full to avoid running the pump dry, but that is easy to do just by
>> watching the level. In a minute or so an entire gallon has gone through, I
>> kill the engine and am done. Is this procedure not good?
>>
>> Eric Fra
Marek
I live in what some would call up north and it can get pretty darn cold
here in Jan/ Feb and as I said I use 4 liters of 50/50 mix to winterize my
engine heat exchanger system. The engine block itself always has 50/50 in
it and this year I drained and renewed the coolant for the first time
Yeah - I've been Doing the same for about 10 years now! I also pull the raw water impeller.I sail on a lake so no need to flush with fresh water. Boat lives in Alberta, Canada so temp may get down to -30+ (...or should that be -30-) in January or February. Engine still OK after 10 years. SamC&C 26
That’s what I do, too. It seems to work just fine, and I use about 1-1/2
gallons of pure -50F non-toxic antifreeze in the process.
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
On Nov 14, 2013, at 9:46 AM, Eric Frank wrote:
> A possible sim
g the
level. In a minute or so an entire gallon has gone through, I kill the engine
and am done. Is this procedure not good?
Eric Frank
Cat'sPaw
> Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2013 10:03:21 -0500
> From: "Bill Coleman"
> To:
> Subject: Re: Stus-List winterizing engine
>
My waterlift muffler and heat exchanger have drains. I find that they tend
to seize up and not seal properly if not opened frequently. I don't run
antifreeze through the raw water side. After the usual oil change, fuel
filter change and fresh water flush, I open the drains and let the water
dra
David
Here's what I do with my M4-30.
Take the raw water hose off at the pump end (one clamp). Install another
section of hose (about 4 feet long) to the pump and run that to a bucket on
the cabin sole. Fill the bucket with fresh water and start the engine.
Keep the bucket as full as possible w
I have seen that done, so it must work.
Two other suggestions,
Replace your hose with a Silicone hose, ( I said I was a fan), these come
right off and have no memory, kind of like me.
Or, What I did was buy an extra plastic lid for my Groco Strainer, the put a
hole in the middle and put a hose
Hey David I cut the raw water hose just after the shut off and installed
another tee fitting with its own shut off. From that I have another Hose that
can draw directly from the antifreeze container. Its about 6' long. Now I just
shut off the raw water at the hull, start the engine with the new
The easiest solution I have installed is to put a barbed tee fitting in the sea
water intake line with a length of hose with a shut off valve on the empty
barb. To run antifreeze through, simply close the seawater intake, open the
valve on the new piece of hose and put the end of the hose in a b
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