Please remove me from your mailing list.
Thanks,
Jeremy
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help
me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Hello,
I have a 1978 C&C 34 with original Yanmar 2QM20. Looking at Betas and
wondering what horsepower to go with if I were to repower. I've heard of
people with 20, 25, 30HP in these boats. We're in the Salish Sea off of
Vancouver Island and often need to battle wind, waves and current.
Thanks
I’m planning an IoB (internet of boats) project using a RPi. It will be a
remote monitor for the boat. I already have a good chart plotter so it
doesn’t need to do that. It will be headless (no monitor) and serve up
data from:
- bilge monitor
- temp monitor
- humidity monitor
- camera stream
- b
Thanks all for the responses.
Yeah ,I should really call but less chance of me getting angrier with an
email. Redoing this stuff is a major PITA as you all know and I’ve lost
some trust in all the Blue Sea stuff I spent a bundle on
RE: do away with the 1-2-all switch in place of 3 switches. I d
Yesterday, my Blue Sea DC switch failed in a bad way — essentially the
plastic broke and the guts of the switch come apart causing a flaky
connection. Seems this is a common problem base on this forum:
https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/853223-blue-sea-battery-switch-failure.html
I emai
Seems iOS updated the way it treats the digest emails.
It used to show the digest list an download each message as a separate MIME
file attachment. You could click on the MIME attachment in the email and
it would open. Now iOS won’t open it... only give you the option to forward
I now open them
I’ve been toying with the idea of installing an electric windlass on my
C&C34-1 too.
Options I’ve been considering:
1. Install a custom made aluminum (or fibreglass) hatch like this
https://youtu.be/2dgzGSks62A
2. Glass a shelf into the locker
3. Cut existing hatch and fortify portion for windl
My Yanmar 2QM20's manual says to stop it by idling down until it stalls,
which is what I do. There is a decompression lever but my understanding is
that's for emergencies or cold starts - I used it a few times to stop it
before I read the manual.
Jeremy
___
I installed my shunt between the negative battery terminal and a new
negative bus bar under the quarter berth where the batteries are. For it
to properly measure all the current loads, all circuits must go thru the
shunt. By attaching all negative circuits to the negative bus bar that is
accompli
st on behalf of Jeremy Ralph
via CnC-List
*Sent:* Thursday, November 29, 2018 12:10 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Jeremy Ralph
*Subject:* Stus-List Close Hauled Indicator
What the heck is a “Close Hauled Indicator?”
I peeled away the stickers off the fuse panel and the original panel
inscriptio
What the heck is a “Close Hauled Indicator?”
I peeled away the stickers off the fuse panel and the original panel
inscription has a fuse for a “Close Hauled Indicator.”
Cheers,
Jeremy
1978 C&C34-1 #41
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list wi
y, November 1, 2018, 12:22 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Hi Chris,
Do you have a tiller or wheel?
For my tiller boat I put a beefy RAM Mount on the cockpit's port bulk head,
replacing some old/broken instruments. Some pics of the before and after
her
Hi Chris,
Do you have a tiller or wheel?
For my tiller boat I put a beefy RAM Mount on the cockpit's port bulk head,
replacing some old/broken instruments. Some pics of the before and after
here on this Flickr album:
https://flic.kr/s/aHsmuTuHzS
Cheers,
Jeremy
-- Forwarded message
I use a siphon hose like this:
Podoy Gas Siphon Pump Gasoline/Fuel/Water Shaker Siphon Safety Self Priming
Hose 6' ft
Amazon: http://a.co/d/4SIUlgu
-- Forwarded message --
From: David Knecht
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2018 10:16:51 -0400
Subject: St
Hi Chris,
I don't know about your specific engine but for my old Yanmar 2QM20 with no
glow plug I put the throttle to greater than 1/2, turn it over and she
starts. I'll then throttle down to idle put her in forward and give it a
nice warm up under load.
To stop it, as advised in the users manua
Hi all,
All my halyards come down to a block at the bottom of the mast where there
is a winch and cleat for them on the deck. I want to find a way to get
the coiled ends off the deck and hanging on the mast somehow, especially
when at the dock. I really don't want to drill/rivet/tap the mast (n
Hi Don,
I have a 3 blade Campbell Sailor that replaced a Martec folding 2 blade
shortly after I got the boat. The Martec was not always opening properly
and was causing some issues.
The Campbell Sailor pushes my boat fine to hull speed for long distances.
I really don’t know how to judge or comp
Hi Bill,
We moved here recently for many of the reasons you mentioned -- ocean,
mountains, good sailing destinations, international airport, hospital,
(relative) affordability. Loving it so far. Moorage is difficult to come
by. I'll drop you a direct email with more details.
Cheers,
Jeremy
>
Hi Sean,
Based on what you’ve said I think you would quickly find the 26 too small
for the week(s) of cruising needed to venture up and about Desolation
sound.
Something else to consider is if the old boat has had it’s rod rigging
re-done. That can cost more than the used boat (did for my C&C 34
to get the lines and fenders all set, but I save
> about $1000 for doing so.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> Forgot – what is the tide? If you have a lot of tidal range you won’t be
> able to do this
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.co
I have an opportunity for a new slip an a highly desirable location. From
the edge of the finger to the neighboring boat is 12' and my beam is 11'
not counting fender width. Is less than 1' between too narrow or do you
think I can make it work?
Thanks,
Jeremy
78 34-1 #41
I use the midship SS toe rail cleat without issue.
With just a spring line decelerating the boat, how do you stop the bow from
swinging into the finger and the stern from swinging out? This is the
reason I have a stern/spring line combo for my setup. Tightening the stern
line from the cockpit (o
Dennis, your Pensacola docking sounds similar to my old dock in Horseshoe
Bay Howe Sound in West Vancouver. That spot would get very strong wind and
ferry wash coupled with a port prop walk that made getting our bow in
starboard tie a challenge. I developed a technique that worked well with
my wi
On my 34, a couple years ago I rewired my batteries, starter, alternator,
installed a Victron BMV-702s, blue sea switch and ACR, plus some bars and
breakers.
I wanted a location that was near to the batteries, engine room, and fuse
panel. The batteries were under the quarter birth so I installed
GMs – will do better
for less money.
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
*From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Jeremy
Ralph via CnC-List
*Sent:* Friday, May 11, 2018 11:55 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Jeremy Ralph
*Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Portable Power
I've got the Noco GB40 and rigged it up to run a Rule iL500PK Marine 500
GPH Inline Submersible Pump for pumping out the dinghy, kayaks, etc. The
battery doesn't last so long doing this but it works.
My one complaint would be the proprietary connectors that Noco uses.
_
On my C&C34-1 I have height restrictions under the quarter berth. I was
able to go with a group 24 for the start plus 2 X 6V group 27 electric
vehicle batteries for the house bank.
Haze makes a 6V 200Ah AGM group 27 sized battery. So far, two years after
installing, I'm happy with these.
Think
Casey
https://www.sailmagazine.com/.amp/diy/replacing-fixed-portlights
On Mar 13, 2018, at 10:42 AM, Matthew L. Wolford wrote:
Won’t that undermine the bond with the 3M tape?
*From:* Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List
*Sent:* Tuesday, March 13, 2018 12:36 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Jeremy
My plan is to paint the acrylic underside with VHT Silicone header spray
paint. Saw this recommended on a forum somewhere . Anyone try this? Good
or bad idea?
From: Chuck Saur
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2018 10:00:35 -0400
> Subject: Stus-List Reinstalling pl
Hi All,
I'm installing a downrigger to catch big salmon. There is an existing
aluminum plate aft of the spinnaker winch that I'm removing and replacing
with a larger one. I plan to use the same hole pattern so I don't need to
drill new holes. The original plate had no backing on the underside.
300 feet?
In my area, when you see crab trap buoys, you're in LESS than 10 feet of
water.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Sun, Jan 7, 2018 at 8:03 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Setup for pulling a prawn trap using a block on the
Setup for pulling a prawn trap using a block on the boom to a jib car block
to winch. Makes it easier to pull form 300ft. https://flic.kr/p/ZZrceh
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appre
> What is the best gauge for wiring the battery to the engine? Do I need to
go to 1 or 2. We have a > voltage drop from 12 to 8 volts.
Is that drop to starter or from alternator?
Gauge required is a function of the amperage and round trip wire length.
https://www.bluesea.com/resources/1437
__
I'm in Canada and recently ordered 4991 from: http://nhsmedia.com/
Dow Corning 795 from https://www.hitechglazing.com
Had both within a week.
Cheers,
Jeremy
C&C 34-1 #041
Vancouver BC
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contribut
Update -- I was able to remove most of the Sudbury Sealant using a razor
blade with a scraper handle and a small paint scraper. Then I used Goof
Off for what remained and it cleaned up really nice.
I'd email support at Sudbury and they got back to me after I'd already
finished the job. The recom
I did quite a bit of research on dehumidifiers after buying my boat. The
surveyor said I needed a dehumidifier with a heating coil. My research led
me to believe that desiccant dehumidifiers were best. I ended up going
with this one: http://a.co/bqzR9jp It's not too big and sits on the galley
c
Hi Lisle,
We were in a similar situation almost 2 years ago before we bought a C&C 34
for family cruising.
I'd never sailed a keel boat and started looking for a boat. My wife had
never sailed (except when I flipped a laser in a gale at the resort on our
honeymoon).
Since we bought the boat we'
Hi All,
I'm replacing portlights with VHB taped acrylic. The PO sealed with
Sudbury Elastomeric Sealant (silicon + polyurethane formulation) and screws
through the acrylic, which I've taken off using a multi-tool scraper. The
sealant remains a mess -- the heat/friction from the tool seemed to so
I'm in Canada and recently ordered 4991 from: http://nhsmedia.com/
Dow Corning 795 from https://www.hitechglazing.com
Had both within a week.
Cheers,
Jeremy
From: Fred Hazzard
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2017 11:14:13 -0700
Subject: Stus-List 3M tape
I am finally goi
I recently tore out the (heavy) speakers and stereo from my 34-1. I now use
one of these waterproof bluetooth units. I carabiner it to the backstay
when in the cockpit.
http://www.fugoo.com/fugoo-tough-xl/
I'm very happy with it, but I'm no audiophile.
Cheers,
Jeremy
_
Thanks Matthew and Dennis for the input.
This is the mount I've ordered:
http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-D-111U-C
I was talking to someone who was unhappy with their swing out RAM solution
for the following reasons:
1. The positioning interferes with getting in and out of the cabin. Having
it
Hi All,
I've bought a new 9" chart plotter for install on my tiller steered C&C34.
The boat has a small companionway dodger.
I hooked the plotter up and experimented with some possible locations. I'm
leaning toward mounting it on a RAM mount on top of the companionway
slider. What I'm not sur
Very timely posting as I'm shopping for VHB myself. I saw a Don
Casey article that was recommending the following:
3m vhb 4991 1/2"
Dow 795 silicone caulking
http://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/maintenance/replacing-fixed-portlights/
Hi all,
I have the new windows for my C&C 34/36 and am going t
Thanks Joel, Matthew, and Don!
Rebuild/rebedding that hatch lens now on my increasingly growing list of
projects.
I'm curious, when removing port lenses for such a project, what do people
do to keep things sealed up? I may redo settee windows at the same time.
I see some boats with plastic sheet
Hi All,
My C&C 34-1 hatch has some leaks. I put some new hatch tape on then had a
kid soak it with a hose while I checked for leaks. It's leaking
between plastic and metal, not where the tape is.
Is it worthwhile to try an fix or is replacing the whole unit a better
option?
Photo of the said h
Hi Don,
You can search it using Google by specifying the site.
Try keying...
site:cnc-list.com windlass
...into a google search.
Cheers,
Jeremy
C&C 34-1 #041
Vancouver BC
-- Forwarded message --
From: DON JONSSON
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Tue, 16 May 2017
I've been thinking of doing the same.
I recently redid the standing rigging, stanchions and lifelines and asked
the rigging co about installing a windlass. They said they would cut the
chain locker hatch top into fore and aft parts. They would reinforce the
half where the windlass would go with s
Good question and responses on this topic. Our kids, 4 and 7, are
reluctant to go on our 34' but always have great time at the cruising
destinations.
Some things they like when underway:
- fishing
- lego and toys
- games and shows on iphones (sadly)
- binoculars
- keeping watch
- going on deck (i
My 2QM20 raw water cooled Yanmar used to steam a lot. I worked with my
mechanic to figure it out. Replacing the thermostat fixed it and also
brought down the block running temp quite a bit.
Also some treatments of salt-away through the cooling systems seemed to
increase the quantity of cooling w
@Marek
- Tri-data (depth, temp, speed over water) sounds interesting. I'll check
into that. If I go chartplotter, I'll need to figure is where to mount the
head unit. With a tiller, the wheel pedestal is out of the question.
@Rick
- Support for depth over 200ft is useful to me for setting praw
Planning to install new thru hull transducer when I haul the boat in the
coming weeks. Trying to decide on: i) a simple depth only display, or ii)
a more elaborate chart plotter with depth.
For chart and depth, I currently use my iPhone in a waterproof case on a
RAM mount. Navionics for charts an
Happy 2017 to all!
Turns out my paranoia was not all in vain. Shore power was off for 3 days
with temps into the 19F range. The marina suffered a 1 in 20 year "Arctic
outflow" storm with a direct hit of winds > 50kn. Word on the dock is that
a BC Ferries captain clocked 80kn winds nearby. My boa
Thanks Rick - good to hear some AF will get in even if thermostat isn't
open. My mechanic is the one who recommended the technique I've used. He
told me to pour the AF in until I smelled it out of the exhaust after
warming up the engine.
I'm 100% positive the engine is a Y2QM20H although not pos
Thanks Russ. Sounds like I'm over thinking it and things will be fine. I'm
pretty sure the Baileys won't freeze and will make a nice special coffee
when next I'm at the boat :)
On Dec 13, 2016, at 8:14 PM, Russ & Melody wrote:
Hi Jeremy,
I don't do any specific winterizing on the water sytems
Thanks Rick for explaining. I wish I had a freshwater cooled engine. What
I've got is a raw water cooled engine though. There is no heat exchanger or
coolant. Salt water flows thu
On Dec 13, 2016, at 10:20 PM, Rick Rohwer wrote:
Hi Jeremy,
The water (coolant) inside the freshwater cooled engine
Yep, the mighty Yanmar 2qm20 is raw water cooled and the 1978 original. My
understanding is that the thermostat opens to route salt water through
the block
when warm enough.
Thanks,
Jeremy
Dec 13, 2016, at 7:38 PM, Rick Brass wrote:
Jeremy;
Someone has probably pointed out in a later post th
Thanks to all for the feedback on freeze proofing.
Patrick - I also run a heater and an Ecoseb desiccant dehumidifier (which
is awesome!). Last year I didn't do anything with antifreeze, just the
heaters, and everything was alright. This year the freeze is a lot colder
though. I do worry about
We poured it into the sea strainer with the engine running and pumping it
through the system. Poured about 5L in until it came out the exhaust (I
think). I do have concern though if the thermostat was routing it into the
block. I did warm up the engine first for ~20min under load with hopes
that
Here in the Pacific NW (Vancouver) we're getting freezing weather now,
which rarely happens. Many people keep a small ceramic heater running in
their boats, but what if the shore power goes out?
Here is what I did last week to prep:
1. Run 2QM20 raw water cooled engine under load for 20min to wa
Sweet. I've been drooling at this one too:
http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/nvn/bod/5808262819.html
Stus-List 1991 C&C 51
> I like to drool and dream. Thought you might want to join me.
> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1991/C%26C-51-2940801/
> Annapolis---Jabins/MD/United-States#.WCyPGneZNE4
> J
I'm keen on these toe rail midship cleats that CnCers have been
recommending and thinking of ordering some:
http://www.csjohnson.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=23
They're rated for a load of 2,000lb. Assuming my 10,000 displacement C&C
is on a nylon spring line (with rubb
I tie the fore and aft spring lines to a shackle through the toe rail at
midship.
On Oct 27, 2016, at 5:50 PM, Stevan Plavsa wrote:
Mid ship cleat? What's that?!!
You guys don't actually sail C&Cs, do you?!!
(I use the primary winch as a spring. Not quite "mid ship" but works almost
as well f
Had the pleasure of trying to single handedly dock in a strong wind this
summer. Tried to dock bow in starboard side and the wind kept blowing the
bow off. Oh, I'll back in I thought since the prop walk will pull me to
port against the dock... The prop walk, wind, ferry wash and current made
me d
I had issues with my 2 blade Martec though not as bad as you describe. I
would open with a clunk, sometimes stick when opening, and have some bad
vibrations. A surveyor informed me it should be be rebuilt, which is in the
works. I replaced it with a 3 blade Campbell Sailer prop, which I'm happy
w
I installed a Victron 702 plus a VE.Direct Bluetooth smart dongle and I'm
very happy with it. I followed the instructions here for the most part:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/battery_monitor
With the Bluetooth dongle and the Victron iPhone app I can easily check the
status of the house and
from the
inside to the outside. I can ram out anything through the tygon and
through hull without getting any flooding in the boat.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Sep 3, 2016 10:54 PM, "Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List"
wrote:
I discovered a mussel population
ight Mistress”*
*Hampton VA*
*From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Jeremy
Ralph via CnC-List
*Sent:* Monday, August 29, 2016 18:16
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Jeremy Ralph
*Subject:* Stus-List Clogged cockpit drains
Just got back from a lovely trip to
Ok, it's now raining and I getting worried.
Is it possible to sink these boats with a cockpit full of rain water?
My gut feel is that the boat has more buoyancy that the weight of the water
that would fill the cockpit (but not fill it so high that it reaches the
companionway) but I don't know.
I
Just got back from a lovely trip to the gulf islands, crossing the Strait
of Georgia for my first time in our 78 C&C 34-1
Now cleaning up after the kids made a mess of the cockpit and the drains
are clogged. Originally just one was clogged, but I stuck a small sink
snake in and have clogged the o
ews.
> What is the spacing of the screws? 6 to 8 inches is about right.
>
> Frank
>
>
> On Monday, August 8, 2016 1:31 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> Our first season with a 1978 C&C 34-1. The PO re-did the windows using
Our first season with a 1978 C&C 34-1. The PO re-did the windows using
plexiglass over the openings bedded with Sudbury Sealant (found half the
tube on the boat) and screws. One window has a slight leak that seems to
come in from the top of the plexi where water can collect. I'd like to do
a qui
In my questions about re-bedding stanchions, Chris mentioned that I should
check the bases for cracks. Looks like a good number of them are cracked.
Also, the pushpit bases are cracked.
Any recommendations from the list on where to source the replacements?
I'm thinking I should replace them all,
Ok, I'm leaning toward butyl tape now given peoples' responses and the and
Compass Marine article. I've followed Compass recommendations for other
projects (battery cable, battery monitor, mooring ball setup) and highly
regard that site.
Is there a need for marine grade (Bed-It) butyl tape, or is
Thanks Chris. Good to know rot is not a concern. The stanchion bends are
subtle and not creased so a vice should be able to straighten.
RE: vertical cracks on stanchion bases. I'll check this too as you
recommend, although I'm having trouble picturing this without being on the
boat with the sta
The stanchions on my '78 C&C 34 are wobbly and some are bent. They also
leak a bit. The previous owner told me I should:
1. take the stanchions off and straighten the bent ones in a vice
2. clean stanchions and the holes in prep for re-bedding
3. re-bed with 3M 4200 but don't tighten fully
4. on
Thanks all, for the manual bilge pump suggestions. As recommended I
will take the unit apart to check the flappers, diaphragm, and sealing
surface. If/when all that is in order, I'll move on to check the hose with
a shop vac for leaks.
Fair winds.
Jeremy
___
The manual bilge pump on my 1978 34-1 isn't working. I believe it's
original.
My thinking is there must be a leak somewhere and I need to find that to
get the suction working. I'm thinking of taking off the hose at the pump
and ensuring there is suction there. Then replace the hose and ensure a
On my C&C34-1 I have height restrictions under the quarter berth. I was
able to go with a group 24 for the start plus 2 X 6V group 27 electric
vehicle batteries for the house bank.
Haze makes a 6V 200Ah AGM group 27 sized battery. So far I'm happy with
these.
Think they are the HZB-EV6-200-2 li
Dennis - thanks for the 3M 5200 to bond teak to the fiberglass idea.
David, I agree that bolts are better than screws.
Could bolts be bonded to the hull with 5200 directly without teak or would
that not have enough surface area?
Martin - Not planning any offshore work at this time. Will be fami
Looking to strap down 3 batteries (2 group 27s and 1 group 24 ) under the
quarter berth of a 1978 C&C 34-1 for cruising. Looks like someone has
screwed into the sole there before. Not sure what I'd be screwing into and
how long a screw to use. The sole looks like it may have been originally
molded
80 matches
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