Brad,
I installed the Raymarine EV200 with type I linear drive on my 34+. I
couldn't be happier with the results. Very powerful in all points of sail. Zero
feedback with the unit in standby. I sail solo 90% of the time and it would
be very difficult without it. The wireless remote is pretty handy
It isn't just a matter of a torque wrench. It may require a torque
multiplier. Most readily available torque wrenches won't do it.
Several on the list have done this and benefited by using a torque
multiplier. Perhaps they could offer additional suggestions regarding
multipliers. Something lik
For anyone interested, the keel bolt nuts on the C&C 24 are 3/4 inch at the
front of the keel followed by 3 nuts that are 1 1/8". I found the forward
nut (the only one I had a socket for) to be barely more than hand
tightened. According to specs I found on the C&C owners site this should be
at 80 f
Thanks Chuck. I had measured using a old style
caliper and then reading it on the scale on my
digital caliper which came out as 75mm. But
after your caution I decided to waits for a real
micrometer to get the true(r) measurement.
I think that drilling the hole for the through
bold will be
Thanks Chuck. I had measured using a old style
caliper and then reading it on the scale on my
digital caliper which came out as 75mm. But
after your caution I decided to waits for a real
micrometer to get the true(r) measurement.
I think that drilling the hole for the through
bold will be
Regardless of the controller you use, I would recommend the Raymarine
Electric Drive Unit (Type 2?). The benefit of an electric drive unit is it
doesn't have the drag on the wheel/tiller when in standby mode. The
hydraulic units I've used make it hard to feel the boat when hand steering.
Gary
S/
Hi John,
Thanks for the tip - will take a look at the Mirage 24 site.
Regards,
Chris
___
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to se
I have tightened mine a few times. It seems to be a C&C maintenance item.
What you might want to analyze is if the keel moves in respect to the hull or
the hull is flexing. If you have a helper or a camera, move the keep and see
what – if anything – moves inside the boat. I suppose it is even pos
Your boat is very similar to a Mirage 24. Anything on their website of use?
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 20, 2020, at 12:16 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
wrote:
Hi Chris
While I believe Surveyors know an awful lot about boats and their construction
they can sometimes make an error.
We had a H
Hi Mike,
Thanks for the suggestions. I will test the torque of the bolts later today
if my socket is deep enough to do so. If they have not been tightened for
35 years (and the original long term owner assured me he had never done so)
then maybe this is the issue.
Regards,
Chris
_
>
> Thanks Gary and Joe for your positive comments and suggestions. As I
> replied to Rob, I am also going to check the keel bolt torques as this may
> be the underlying issue. I will definitely rebuild the mast step as well
> and get this area level before replacing the compression post base.
Re
Thanks Rob,
I will inspect as you suggest. I have also had a few people suggest that I
may be looking in the wrong area and that the problem may simply be that
the keel bolts are too loose - not loose enough that the keel to sump
bonding has failed but loose enough that the keel is moving against
Hi Chris
While I believe Surveyors know an awful lot about boats and their construction
they can sometimes make an error.
We had a Hinterhoeller Niagara 26 (which is basically a C&C based on who built
those boats). Early on we noted water seeping into the boat around the keel
bolts. Tighteni
Chris:
Inside, check grid structures and interior pans for cracks, from the
pics I think I can see some cracks. Probe all grid, pan, floor, step,
and bulkhead bonds with your flexible blade.
Should your inspection reveal hull damage or weakness, you’ll need to
deal with this first. Correctiv
I’ve been crawling around below deck on our C&C 33/2 contemplating the
installation of a below deck autopilot as well. My rudder post is 2.373 or
roughly 2-3/8 diameter, appears to be solid stainless. My keyway extends down
below the quadrant by about 4 inches or so, right where the arm needs to
+1 with Joe on the repair possibility. The pictures show that many of the early
C&C’s used the same type of construction. The 30’s have three of those
‘bundles’ of fibers laid across the keel sump with some plywood stringers in
between. These, in turn, have a big oak block on top with a box for
Stu:
My CNC is a Shapeoko 3XXL.
I use Vectric Aspire as my main design software. Vectric has a few versions
(Vectric Desktop, Vectric Pro, Vectric Aspire). It is one of the most
versatile options out there, but pricey. I have a laser attachment and use
Lightburn for any laser work.
Lee Rosenbaum
It looks like your machine is a 2D machine. If so, you may be able to use
Lightburn software, which we are using on our Laser cutter. We have a large
flatbed laser cutter which has a Ruida controller but Lightburn says it can
handle other types of controllers as well.
Gary Nylander
CBMM Mod
Wow – sorry to hear about this ☹
First off, do NOT troubleshoot this in the water unless prepared to swim home!
I think you can do the “survey” yourself, just have the boat in the slings and
grab the keel. It sounded like a pretty obvious issue. Assuming you find this
is actually a problem, there
Fusion 360 is the way to go. Pretty intuitive and free for non-commercial use.
Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie
79 30-1
Annapolis, MD
From: CnC-List on behalf of Stu via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 20, 2020 9:37:39 AM
To: C&C Email List
Cc: Stu
Subject: Stus-List A Di
Hi Stu,
I've been working with Fusion 360 for for toolpath generation a few
years, after trying Solidworks and Mastercam, and I find it much more
intuitive and pretty easy to use. It's published by Autodesk, who sells
Autocad, and it's free if you're not using if for commercial work. Be
hap
This is not about C&C but CNC (Computer Numerical Control). I would like to
touch bases with any of our listers who have and use a desktop style CNC
machine and find out what design software they are using.
If you don’t know what I am talking about – here is one for you to look at:
Stu -- __
Tom,
Thought I'd weigh in as a former Edsonite.. The most important thing to
realize when installing the autopilot is that the clamping action of the arm
and cap for the tiller arm is the primary form of attachment to the rudder
post. Edson makes the arm with a .002" clamping tolerance to the
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