Nicely done Dan!
I'd be interested in more details... Like cost and color options.
Thanks,
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Tue, Aug 14, 2018, 1:43 PM Dan via CnC-List
wrote:
> I recently replaced my Ritchie compass cover with a 3D printed one!
> I have the Globemaste
My wife and I were headed to Desolation Sound and the Paragon transmission on
our Landfall 38 stopped working and luckily no issues and managed to tie up
again as we were leaving Ganges Marina in Salt Spring Island.
Our home port is Anacortes, WA at Cap Sante Marina and can anyone recommend a
v
Since you are in fresh water, use aluminum anodes, not zinc.
Is your ground bus, behind the electrical panel, connected to the engine.
All of your instruments should have their negative leads going to the
electrical panel ground bus. Then the ground bus should be connected to
the engine block.
A
I just received notice from our hosting company, that we have gone over another
storage limit and the price is going up.
Every message that is sent out on this list is archived for future retrieval.
If you send a message it is archived. If someone replies, and leaves your
original message, it
I wavered in confusion too and landed on the side of not bolding.On the
West Marine Advisor website they have reprinted a Practical Sailor article
written by Stan Honey. I include the link below. It is a good read. Under
the section on “Bonding and Electrolytic Corrosion”, the first sente
Not so fast, Bill. I replaced a bronze thru-hull when doing extensive core
repair about six years ago. There was a ground wire connected to the original
thru-hull that we did not re-connect. About two years ago, I discovered that
the thru-hull had been substantially eaten away. The flange on
If the centerboard tube is not wired to the ground bus, you can see voltage
between that and the engine. That would make sense.
In theory there should be 0 volts between the engine and the prop shaft. In
practice, if you think about it, no part of the rotating mass of the engine can
possibly be
Alan
I have the book. To the best of my knowledge I have three ground bus bars.
One behind the electrical panel, engine block and one in the V berth. I
installed the v- berth one when I installed the windlass. The windlass grounds
directly to the battery, however I also installed a wash dow
Joe
I connected the ground from the multi-meter to the engine block. Then I took
the positive lead and touched it against various pieces. Largest voltage shown
was at the stainless tube for the centre board 0.25. The mast and prop shaft
showed 0.02V
Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault
Here's the name and address for your parts
Hayn Enterprises, LLC
51 Inwood Road
Rocky Hill, CT 06067 USA
Telephone
800.346.4296
860.257.0680
Fax
George Cone
81 c & c 40
From: CnC-List On Behalf Of George Cone via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2018 3:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Geor
The reason to ground them is to prevent lightning flashovers. IMHO this is
outweighed by the corrosion issues caused by this wiring.
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Don Kern via
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2018 3:06 PM
To: cnc
I also am of the convention of none of the overboards that have
plastic/rubber inboard should be grounded. When I first got the boat in
1980 we were eating zincs, one every other month. I read an article at
the time that basically said that if you have a copper base paint you
were setting up
Well, Joe, you have just thrown some weight to a very weighty question in my
head.
I have read where these thru hulls are to be grounded, and then I read where
you shouldn’t , so I think over the years some I have re-done some grounds,
then I read the other way, and I don’t connect them, so hal
I was mainly answering Mike but adding to your question also. I am not clear on
what is being
measured, assumed something to ship's ground.
I have not understood the need to ground an otherwise electrically isolated
bronze through hull
or seacock though I think at one point it was recommended.
I am still not clear on how the voltage is being measured and between what
points.
I have bronze thru-hulls that are not wired to anything. If I measured between
them and the lead keel or the engine with the stainless shaft, I am sure I
would read a voltage, they are dissimilar metals in salt wa
You could try reading current with your multimeter instead of voltage. Small
stray voltages
likely exist when measuring between lead and SS even in fresh water but I doubt
they will
sustain much current.
Just as an example of magnitude very roughly if there was a current of 1 amp
continuously
I recently replaced my Ritchie compass cover with a 3D printed one!
I have the Globemaster style compass (large model) with an original plastic
cover. Ritchie only offers a soft cover now so if you want to replace the
original cover you're SOL. My cover took a beating over the years so I had
it 3D
I installed a galvanic isolator, but they really don't help much with stray
dc current, unfortunately. I do hang a large zince anode off the boat and
connect to the engine ground. This anode is supposed to extend the life of
the shaft anodes. I haven't noticed much difference, but most boats her
Hi Wade,
I had the exact same problem on my 30 MK I hull #7 (built September 1972) when
replacing her exterior handrails two offseasons ago. There’s a screw from the
inside out, between the cabintop and the starboard bulkhead (or its trim)
separating the settee from the hanging locker. I wasn
Good article.
Do you use an isolator on your shore power? Really bad marinas can require
isolation transformers.
Joe
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Castor
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2018 12:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Ca
The screws come from the outside and screw into the cabin top. They have teak
plugs covering them. You will have to drill out the plug and redo them when
you put the grab rails back on.
Bob
Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
blog: dai
Hi Everyone,
I have a question for the group and I am hoping someone has encountered this
problem before me.
I had rain drops coming through my grab handle on the starboard side of my
boat. I decided I would take the inside and outside handles off to sand them,
varnish and then re-pot all the ho
Normally a lurker on this list, since I don't own a C&C, but thought I'd
post this link to a paper on corrosion issues by Stan Honey.
http://honeynav.com/grounding-on-sailboats/
West Marine has a version of this on their website. From my perspective as
a EE (but certainly not a corrosion expert),
Nice looking!
That salt sure is rough on things . . .
Bill Coleman
C&C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dreuge via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2018 6:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dreuge
Subject: Stus-List Landfa
Veiko,
Similar experience as Fred states. As a pre-November 1, 1972 vessel, my
35-1 did not have the molded HIN on the transom. It has the metal plate as
Jim states. The HIN does not conform to the USCG format. When I went to
register it with the state, the state agency issued a new USCG compli
My C&C 35 has a metal stamped plate below the wheel on the pedestal showing the
model, year and serial number.
- Original Message -
From: Veiko Piirsalu via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Veiko Piirsalu
Sent: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 09:16:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Stus-List C&C30E hull
Veiko, when I bought my boat the hin number on the transom was lost when
owner had it painted in California. When I registered it in Oregon, they
assigned a new number that I put on the transom. My insurance company
accepted it with no questions.
Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland Or
On Tue,
Voltage readings between what and what?
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mike via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2018 7:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mike
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
Hi Alan
The readin
Hello
I just bought 1982 C&C 30E (European version, made in Sweden)
Problem is, i cant find hull number (HIN) - it is not on transom, where it
usually is. Previous owner also did not find it and right now yacht is
registered without hull number. Unfortunately i cant insurance vessel
without hull n
29 matches
Mail list logo
