Hey Randy,
Back in May I found myself in a similar situation with my 1976 30-1 - which I
just recently sold... The wife and I just put a deposit down on a Morgan 382
and we are pending survey... I hope you all will still talk to me now that I'm
not officially a C&C owner.
Anyhow, I figured I
Randy,
If you don't KNOW what paint is on the topsides, then the best course is to
sand it all off. You could try priming over the old paint but you may
encounter compatibility issues.
When I had Touche' painted, we did not know what the previous paint(s)
were. Rumors around the marina were tha
Listers-
I've come to the conclusion that Grenadine's hull is painted the same color as
her original gelcoat (red). It appears a coat of grey primer was painted over
the original gelcoat, then a layer of red paint was applied. I have no idea
what kind of paint was used (is there a way to tell?
I replaced a Martec with a two blade fixed, and a folding two blade gori.
I like the Gori, it works great, have no issues stopping the boat. I read
that same article about the 3 blade gori and this did not support my own
experience with the two blade, which was superior to the martec and at
least
Like 'ground' systems, marine systems are required to connect neutral to ground
at the source of power, whether that is somewhere at the top of the dock for
shore power, or at the generator or inverter. One of the most important
connections at the inverter is from chassis ground to the boat's g
I have a C&C 29 mark 2 and I'm looking for thoughts on bow roller options.
I saw some of the custom designs on the website, but I'm wondering if there
are any off the shelf rollers that will work with the C&C cast metal
bowsprit/nose. I measured the channel on it and it's 1-13/16 inches and
most OD
I think you have it, that is how a GFCI works.
In the case of an inverter that is floating use of a ground is a bit of an
oxymoron.
The principle is that every electron that comes out of one connection has to go
back to the other connection. If the GFCI is directly connected to the two
connecti
I have a Flex. When making the decision, I was at the Annapolis boat show and
spent time at both booths. I found the Flex to have a higher quality casting
and better finish than the Gori (which was a new model to them at the time), so
went with the Flex. I have found it to be an excellent prop.
The Gori did poorly, though note it was a three blade folding.
Also Gori spec'd the wrong size of prop according to a note
at the end of the article.
It is a good article but I noted that most of the props stopped
from 6 kts in 8 - 10 seconds, the majority of them did 6.4 - 6.65 kts
ahead. For me
GFCI outlets compare current in the hot and neutral and trip if it is not the
same.
If an inverter has no connection at all to ground, i.e. a floating AC system,
connecting either hot or neutral to ground would have no effect and not trip
the ground fault. You could, in theory, sit neck deep in
"Similarly with an inverter connected to a battery that is not grounded a
GFCI should
never trip. Theoretically in a floating system the power has to come out of
the Hot
lead and return in the Neutral. There will never be a ground fault to trip
a GFCI.
There is no ground."
I'm not an electrician,
I saw a real Bruce in a consignment store. Worth getting?
My Danforth is usually very good here when it digs down into the clay.
Sometimes it is about impossible to get loose. OTOH sometimes it gets one
oyster shell on each fluke and does nothing ☹
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
22 pound Danforth HT and
Hopefully the inverter will come with very clear instructions on how to
handle ground and neutral.
For normal power, ie shore power, this is the US code:
"The National Electrical Code ( NEC ) requires the AC source to have a Neutral
to ground bond
and that there be only one such bond in the enti
A friend has done extensive anchor testing, if you don't watch any of his
other videos, watch this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l59f-OjWoq0.
He picked the Spade as the best design for himself, partly because the roll
bar anchors didn't work well on his setup.
I use a 35-lb Delta with 100'
I have a Rocna that recently got tested in a 50+ knot squall and was one of two
boats in the anchorage that did not drag. So I am a happy customer. The only
thing I am unhappy with is the roll bar. I did not realize it when I bought
it, but the anchor does not fit under the stanchions, so it
When I was shopping for a new main and roller reefing 135 genoa for Imzadi a
couple of months ago, I was surprised and disappointed by the response from the
lofts I contacted. Make that Lack of response.
I contacted a local sailmaker that I have used before, four lofts recommended
by the lis
If one were to upgrade to a 33# Vulcan (30 foot boat), what would be a
suitable windlass to retrieve it while fitting in the std C&C anchor locker?
Allen Miles
S/v Septima 30-2
Hampton, VA
On Mon, Oct 24, 2016 at 10:36 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Over the past
Mike,
Several people on the list have retired their Martec props for the very
reason you cite: very poor reverse performance. Many have changed to 2
blade Flex-O-Fold geared props and the difference in reverse is dramatic.
Take a look at a prop test article from Yachting Monthly in the U
Over the past 7 years working at and now managing a municipal marina along the
ICW, I've gotten to know a lot of liveaboard cruising boaters. Most liveaboard
spend most of their time at anchor, so setting and holding has a high priority.
From what I have seen and heard from them, the order of pr
I have a West Marine 1000 Watt inverter that I wired to a few outlets with no
apparent ill effects. I use a shore power sensing relay I got from West to
switch them between inverter and shore power. I used a GFCI outlet and it works
when I test it. I have not tested a neutral>ground leak, maybe
David,
I've followed some of this thread and have a few concerns where some have
mentioned using an inexpensive inverter.
Using an inverter that is not intended for marine use or not properly
grounded can cause problems. An inverter can produce short duration spikes
which exceed the insulation
Derek,
I went online to determine if that was possible. Nuthin'.
Thank you very much for that information.
Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
Original message
From: Tortuga via CnC-List
Date: 10/23/16 20:37 (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tortuga
Subject: S
As Rob knows I back in all the time as my preferred method of docking. On the
frers 33 the shaft I centered and the prop is RH so there is some prop walk to
port in reverse but it is not pronounced. The biggest issues are visibility
and the lack of bite of the prop when shifting from forward
I second Dave’s view on the 3rd generation anchors. CQR is in fact the worst
anchor ever made, that’s why they had to be heavily oversized to work. Delta is
a 2nd generation anchor, good but not great.
For such a critical piece of equipment the choice should be one of the 3rd gen
anchors. Spade
Dave,
don't forget the C&C logo!
Joel
On Monday, October 24, 2016, Dave S via CnC-List
wrote:
> Thanks John. Brad L had also recommended them. Funny thing - I sent
> them the request and no response, and they are not the only ones. I sent a
> second request, we'll see what happens. It is
Thanks gentlemen. Brad - I take it that the mechanical advantage from
this simple cunning-ham arrangement is satisfactory for you?
Unsurprisingly, the sail hardware catalogs imply that a fancy multipart
tackle is appropriate, even on a dinghy.
Dave
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2016 03:17:30 +0
Thanks John. Brad L had also recommended them. Funny thing - I sent them
the request and no response, and they are not the only ones. I sent a
second request, we'll see what happens. It is interesting to compare the
response from the various lofts.
Dave
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2016
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