I have mine at the entrance to the companion way under the dodger. I am
out of the rain when I motor which is when I find that I use the autohelm
the most. My autohelm draws 4.5 amps so I do not use it frequently without
the engine running. I can however it is a power hog.
Where are you going to
I think that at the helm is the default place, but I have seen it mounted
either on the cockpit coaming or on a adjustable arm, so it can be turned
180 degrees (so it can be used from in front of the wheel). This type of
mounting frees you from being stuck behind the wheel.
If you sail with a
Also, if you use the autotack function often (which I do) you want to be near
the wheel and winches when you activate it. This assumes the primary winches
are nearer the helm than forward. When on autopilot, I sit at the helm and
frequently tweek the autopilot by a few degrees to correct for w
My windows have 4 screws along the top and 4 along the bottom. No leaks
since around 1999 when the screws were added. :-)
Bill Bina
On 8/30/2016 4:30 PM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List wrote:
I agree as well. As per this article. I did it this april, and so
far so good. No screws.
http:/
On occasion, someone bumps our autopilot and manages to engage it.
Sometimes a curious little kid. I'm sure glad it's within reach of the
helm when that happens.
On Tue, Aug 30, 2016 at 4:38 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Danny — if you put the pilot into s
Danny — if you put the pilot into standby, you’d really want to be within reach
of the wheel, I’d think… :^)
— Fred
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> On Aug 30, 2016, at 3:31 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I can't help but wonder,
BUT — having NMEA0183 nav data from the plotter to the pilot would allow the
pilot to steer to waypoints. And yes, you can do this; but the ACU does NOT
have NMEA0183 inputs, so you’d need the SeaTalkNG to NMEA0183 converter kit on
the SeaTalkNG bus.
— Fred
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Ocea
I can't help but wonder, if setting an autopilot is so you can leave the
helm for short periods of time, why is the control better at the helm?
you would think that being able to adjust from in front of the helm
would have some benefit... I know it is just my ignorance speaking but,
I'm just
I agree as well. As per this article. I did it this april, and so far so
good. No screws.
http://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/ask-sail/replacing-fixed-portlights
I posted a photo of one side where you can see the new windows. it's the
side that was completely dug out to replace rotten balsa co
connecting it to the plotter won't do you much good. Different brands are
not compatible for AP controls. Mike is right- keep it within reach
Joel
On Tue, Aug 30, 2016 at 4:04 PM, mike amirault via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I strongly recommend you put the control head at the h
I agree with Alan; more screws are just going to make the leak worse. Get rid
of the screws, fill the holes and glue the window with Sika, or Dow795 or VHB
tape.___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we d
I strongly recommend you put the control head at the helm, not on the side of
the companionway. I had mounted mine at the companionway and ended up moving it
to a box on the helm; much more useful there and you can display up to 6 boxes
of data connected to the backbone._
Sitting at a electrical supply desk waiting for some stuff reading this thread.
Said, uh Hey you got any of this led tape...? Bought 8'. For the
galley.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Aug 29, 2016, at 5:23 AM, Syerdave--- via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Have installed these over galley- major
Sorry, you are correct. Polycarbonate
Original message
From: Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List
Date: 08-30-2016 9:30 AM (GMT-08:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Bina - gmail
Subject: Re: Stus-List Window Leak
Polysulfide is not compatible
with plasti
I have a system that reports battery voltage, cabin temperature, and location
by radio.
http://aprs.fi/#!mt=roadmap&z=11&call=a%2FN3HGB-5&timerange=3600&tail=3600
The telemetry graph is a little ragged because I have not had it on nonstop
like I do when the boat is on my mooring. I can see the ch
Polysulfide is not compatible with plastics. It eats them.
http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/sealant.asp
"However, the solvents in polysulfide sealant attack some plastics,
causing them to harden and split. Specifically, you must not use
polysulfide to bed plastic windshields or plastic por
Polysulfate is the best for lexan. You can also use butly puddy
Original message
From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List"
Date: 08-30-2016 6:58 AM (GMT-08:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Hoyt, Mike"
Subject: Re: Stus-List Window Leak
If they are simply screwed in the why n
That sounds reasonable for new batteries. Are you logging the battery
voltage? Is that what you mean by telemetry?
Voltage is difficult to use as means of charging. Amps would be more useful,
and AH are what ultimate truth teller. Solar charge controllers should have
Amps.
Little DC/A
I just looked at my telemetry and when the boat is sitting with the 50 watt
solar panel and no load other than the telemetry system, it tends to go up to
13.6-13.8 volts as the sun goes up and drop to 12.9 as the sun goes too low to
provide much power. Overnight it will drop to 12.6-12.5 or so a
Found this link:
http://l-36.com/compare.php
Here is part of it:
Meissner 23ST-41 3 1/16 5 15/16 7 5/16 10.43 41.05 : 1
Lewmar 40ST 2 15/16 5 13/16 6 13/16 10.7 14.3 40.2 : 1
Lewmar 40STOR 2 15/16 5 13/16 6 13/16 7.5 40.2 : 1
Harken B40.2ST 3 5 7/8 6 15/16 10.6 14.1 40 : 1
Andersen 40ST 3 6 6
If they are simply screwed in the why not remove screws, clean, apply new
bedding and reattach using screws? On j boats of the 80s vintage the windows
are screwed in and every three or four years if a leak detected we removed.
Cleaned and resealed with just silicone. Solved the leaking at 20 m
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