Hi Derek,
I purchased a 29-2 in 2012 - 1985 hull 693.
In have looked at a lot of 29-2's over the last few years.
Most do not have any signs of cracks in the hulls either below the waterline
or above.
I have seen a couple with cracks radiating out from the forward edge and
trailing edge of th
I had my first sail of the season yesterday. For late April on Lake Ontario it
was great. 10 - 12 knot winds and relatively warm. Shorts, sweatshirt and life
jacket. Re-calibrated Autopilot and wind instruments first.
Mac McKenzies/v Worthy Pearl1983 C&C 37Toronto
Splashed today. Who is going to be in Newport for the Volvo. Race finish?
Let's get together. C
Charlie Normand
Shadow Dancer
C&C 33 MK II. 1987
___
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to
The Crusader has a centerboard that sticks out of the back of the keel when
it is raised.
And while Stars and Stripes did win the Americas Cup, he wasn't the fastest
of the American Challengers. Heart of America, the Chicago Yacht Club
challenge, got a very late start on development and had a v
Upgrades every year! At some point it's got to be worth more than a 0.x
version number...
Tim
> On Apr 30, 2015, at 8:03 PM, Jake Brodersen wrote:
>
> Tim,
>
> Did you do an upgrade to your boat? I’m not familiar with the C&C 35-4? ;-)
>
> Jake
>
> Jake Brodersen
> “Midnight Mistres
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1973/C%26C-39-Sail-1437090/Portsmouth/VA/Uni
ted-States#.VULL-ZP-XhI
I think this one is at least 5-8 years on YW.
Joe Della Barba
j...@dellabarba.com
From: robert [mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca]
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2015 8:00 PM
To: Joe Della Barba
Tim,
Did you do an upgrade to your boat? I’m not familiar with the C&C 35-4? ;-)
Jake
Jake Brodersen
“Midnight Mistress”
C&C 35 Mk-III
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2015
My spacers are all aft of the mast.
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
messing about in boats." --Kenneth Grahame
> On Apr 3
What an interesting boat for $25K USD.and a lot of boat which, from
the pictures provided, looks like one of that vintage, well maintained.
Interesting keel.we don't see many of them called a 'proboscis
keel'...I wonder if Dennis Conner saw it and used the concept for his
1987 run
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1969/C%26C-Crusader-2725539/Galesville/MD/United-States#.VUKwJ5P-XhI
I am 99% sure this boat was listed and I took a look at her in the mid 90s. She
has not sold yet.
Joe Della Barba
j...@dellabarba.com
COQUINA C&C 35
__
I think Pegasus`s mast is all the way aft.
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 hull #4just west of Ballard, WA.
-- Original message--From: N7FN--- via CnC-List Date: Thu, Apr 30, 2015
11:13To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Subject:Stus-List LF38 Mast Placement in the
StepHi,I need to kno
Tim:
The mast rake is approx. 8" and there is very little prebendthe mast
on a C&C 32 really doesn't need much prebend.I would have my sail
maker take that into consideration if I were ordering a new main
sail..I think the main sail I use was built with no prebend in mind.
I feel
I hand lowered the mast on my Mirage 24 a few times.
Good grip-able rope attached to the end of a jib halyard will allow
someone on the dock to tip it back - then one person (or 2) standing on
the coach roof can catch the weight as it comes down. Not light, but
not too hard.
Make sure you h
There might have been different masts for the 24, but in my old one (1975),
I would not attempt to lower the mast without a crane - it was way too
heavy. Possibly with a decent A-frame. Though it should pivot on the
tabernacle.
Marek
ex. C&C 24
-Original Message-
From: Andrew Frame
I'm still doing the new-owner fixing things and the top of the mast is
beckoning. It regularly gets whacked in low trees, so I have no idea
what shape anything is in. The windicator is long gone, and I'm
surprised the VHF whip is still attached.
My mentor suggested the easiest way to do insp
Hi Francois- If 8-12 inches of flop is normal baseline, then I am probably in
that ballpark. I was calling that floppy and thought it might be too much.
Dave
> On Apr 30, 2015, at 1:33 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard
> wrote:
>
> Hi Dave,
>
> The 34+ mast base is pretty much fixed. You adjust
Ed — all four of my spacer blocks are forward of the mast heel.
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
On Apr 30, 2015, at 2:26 PM, ed vanderkruk via CnC-List
wrote:
> I have 4 spacer blocks that position the mast in the step. So I ta
Yep, I was bass ackwards...already been told
On Apr 30, 2015 3:26 PM, "randy via CnC-List" wrote:
> Hey Josh, with all due respect, but moving the butt forward on a keel
> stepped rig will pivot about the partners, and should move the sail area,
> and therefore the center of effort aft, which I b
I have 4 spacer blocks that position the mast in the step. So I take it
that most folks have all the spacers forward of the mast? I didn't recall
how the PO had it so have split it 2 and 2 for years.
Ed
1982 Landfall 38
Prime Interest
Toronto
On Apr 30, 2015 2:40 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List"
Hey Josh, with all due respect, but moving the butt forward on a keel
stepped rig will pivot about the partners, and should move the sail area,
and therefore the center of effort aft, which I believe will increase
weather helm.
randy
Tamanawas
29-II
Hood River, OR
From: CnC-
I concur on Martin's comment, it was a noted safety failure on my
pre-purchase survey (And a price negotiation point) when I bought the
boat.
If the coating has yellow spots (Especially near the fittings)it's
probably close to failing. Mine was literally holding by a few threads,
if someone
If you don't want the rest of the lifeline limp you need to use one of
these.
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|118|2358491|2358492&id=1233088
Joel
On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 2:17 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Barbara,
>
> This is how I did it on my
More rake increases weather helm by moving the center of effort aft.
Joel
On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 2:15 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Moving the base forward should give more aft rake and reduce weather-helm.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solom
If your vinyl coated lifelines are more than a few years old, and especially if
they have any rust stains near a crack in the vinyl consider replacing them as
part of this project. The vinyl hides failing SS wire caused by corrosion. I
was unpleasantly surprised by how weak Calypso’s old vinyl
Hi, Frank — mine is all the way aft, as well.
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
On Apr 30, 2015, at 1:13 PM, N7FN--- via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I need to know, from you 38LF owners, where in the mast step your mast is
> po
Derek,
Over on Sailing Anarchy there is a posting (Fixit forum -
http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=165437) regarding severely
corroded keel bolts (not on a C&C built boat). While I doubt it is a similar
issue as yours it qualifies as a way to learn from other's misfortune.
Barbara,
This is how I did it on my old C&C 24. It works. But you have to cut the safely
line, because the pelican hook is usually longer than the turnbuckle. Measure
twice and cut once, though.
Your issue might be that when the gate is open, the safety line is completely
limp, so you have to
Moving the base forward should give more aft rake and reduce weather-helm.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 30, 2015 2:13 PM, "N7FN--- via CnC-List"
wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I need to know, from you 38LF owners, where in the mast step your mast is
> positioned.
>
> Right now
Hi,
I need to know, from you 38LF owners, where in the mast step your mast is
positioned.
Right now my mast is all the way aft in the step but I can see that the mast
was positioned in the step farther forward at one time.
The only reason that it is all the way aft is because that is where
I have a single 3/8" line on 18" (or so) stanchions. On the starboard
side cockpit, the line has an eye and hook affair that allows you to
step onto the boat, and hook it back together once aboard.
A much simpler situation, but it can be done.
Andrew
C&C-24
On 04/30/2015 01:15 PM, Barba
Barbara, you'll need to add gate braces to the stanchions to support them
against the fore / aft tension you'll create to make the gate openable. Some
boats (including mine) do not close the gate at the lower lifeline; make a
choice based on your use of boat / crew.
Regards,
Tim
Mojito
C&C 35
Hi Dave,
The 34+ mast base is pretty much fixed. You adjust the rake by a
combination of forestay and backstay tension (Base backstay tension) and
all should be fairly tight. If your forestay foil is flopping around
(More than about 8-12 inches overall when you lean on it which is "loose"
s
West Marine's rigging shop can do it all for you and they do a nice job of it.
Bob
On Apr 30, 2015, at 1:15 PM, Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List wrote:
> Hi All,
> I just found out from my 84 yr old mom whose otherwise healthy as a horse,
> that she has declined invitations to sail becaus
Hi All, I just found out from my 84 yr old mom whose otherwise healthy as a
horse, that she has declined invitations to sail because its hard for her to
get over the lifeline without losing her balance. So...gates are in order
asap! The upper lifeline is larger than the lower (probably 3/16"
Hi Dave,
The 34+ mast base is pretty much fixed. You adjust the rake by a
combination of forestay and backstay tension (Base backstay tension) and
all should be fairly tight. If your forestay foil is flopping around
(More than about 8-12 inches overall when you lean on it which is "loose"
s
Josh — you’re correct, thanks for the clarification. The main negative bus
needs to be on the “Load” side of the shunt, if you have one installed. And
Joel: the negative side of all DC systems in the boat should terminate at one
point. This should include batteries (or banks of them), the DC
Edd, if you have a current shunt (which you do if you use your Link 2000)
it is normally on the ground wire. You should make sure all you charging
sources go to the load side, not the battery side, of the shunt.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 30, 2015 11:56 AM, "Edd Sc
Hi Dwight- Now I am even more confused, but need to get back to the boat to
confirm my recollection. As I remember it, when the backstay has no added
tension, the roller furler track is quite slack and can be flopped around
easily by hand. I will measure it this weekend to see how much flop.
Joel,
My goal is to charge the house bank (so I’d connect it to the house bank
positive bus bar). My ground is common to all batteries so I wanted to make
sure I’d still charge the house (the ACR will automatically charge the engine
battery anyway).
Love this list.
All the best,
Edd
Edd
Fred,
If it goes to the bus bars won't it charge all batteries on the live
circuit, not a single battery?
Not sure if that is Edd's goal.
Joel
On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 11:51 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hi, Edd — the negative side of the charger output c
Fred,
That’s what I thought. An installation manual threw me for a few. . . .
Thanks for the clarification.
Sheesh — more fuses… more fuses…
I’m now going to call you Fred “The Fuse-Man” Street
All the best,
Edd
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Isla
Hi, Edd — the negative side of the charger output can go straight to the main
negative bus bar; this should have a large conductor straight to the negative
sides of both the house and start banks. DO NOT just grab any local ground
point, as the connection from it to the battery may not be sound
Listers,
For a shore-powered battery charger, do the red and black wires need to run to
the battery or can the red run to the battery and the black to any common
ground on the boat?
In other words, does the black need to connect directly to the negative
terminal on the battery?
All the bes
Hi Derek,
I would concur with the others that have suggested a survey. On my 33, the
mast had pushed the cabin sole down a lot and I had a small leak in my bilge.
I kept futzing around with things myself until I had a proper survey done this
past fall. The surveyor sent me straight to Bristol
Hi David,
If I may try to clarify things a bit here...
substitute "forestay length" for "forestay tension" in Dwight's message below.
As others have pointed out (Dennis' message is a
good guide) forestay tension is more or less
adjusted for sailing (or APPARENT wind) conditions.
C
Hi,
I posted yesterday about some surface cracks in the hull of my 1983 C&C 29-2
and those are still a concern, however a much bigger issue presented itself.
The mast step is off and I am fabricating an aluminum replacement. I noticed
there is a dip in the fiberglass around the forward keel bol
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