Airplanes only get grounded on mountains though.RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL
From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List
To: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Volvo Reef Grounding Report
#yiv1095826029 #yiv1095826029 -- _filt
Oh! That makes sense.
My brain read Aires comment as "generic engineering"...
Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
At 07:45 PM 11/03/2015, you wrote:
h...
Genetic engineering
The possibilities...the possibilities...
David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
--
Date: W
Mike:
After what I heard on this list this week, when I run out of Micron 66,
heaven forbid, I will use Amercoat ABC 4..and it doesn't cost as
much as Micron CSC.
Still gotta a year to find a new supply of 66like they say,
necessity is the ??
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifa
David:
I will be brave to face a genetic engineer.I suspect the 50-50
acetone ATF concoction has more to do with the 'acetone' than the
'ATF'. I said earlier last week that I thought it was Power Steering
Fluid ...both are petroleum based..its the acetonemaybe the
petroleum
I am feeling a bit foolish right now. The PO did install a ground bus in the
battery compartment. Since it wasn't in with the electrical panel I didn't put
2 and 2 together.
Sent from my iPad
> On Mar 11, 2015, at 11:07 PM, Dennis C. wrote:
>
> This would be a good time to install a ground
This would be a good time to install a ground bus bar or a Blue Sea
PowerPost Plus.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/2300/Common_150A_BusBar_-_10_Gang_with_Cover
https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/PowerPost_Connectors/PowerPost_Plus
Dennis C.
On Wed, Mar 11, 2015 at 9:19 PM, Joseph Scot
h...
Genetic engineering
The possibilities...the possibilities...
David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2015 22:41:58 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
I never cease to be amazed by the information
I never cease to be amazed by the information I get from this list. This group
has an amazing array or talents and experiences, not just in sailing but also
in engineering, metallurgy, mechanics, chemistry etc. etc. The only engineering
I can provide advice on is genetic engineering and I suspe
Yep, that's exactly how my panel is and I did see those bolts. I guess I was
expecting a bar or something. Thanks a lot. This is my first electrical
project.
Sent from my iPad
> On Mar 11, 2015, at 10:13 PM, Rick Brass wrote:
>
> Remove the panel from its mounting slots (lift up, pull the b
Remove the panel from its mounting slots (lift up, pull the bottom forward,
and then lower out of the top slot. That's the way mine is rigged. If
different from yours, just ignore this email.)
On the starboard side of the wiring compartment about 4 or 5 inches from the
top you should see two "bolt
you won’t miss it. C&C was ahead of their time with electrical - really nice
ground buses. Can’t comment on 1976...
John
> On Mar 11, 2015, at 9:57 PM, Joseph Scott via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Ok, I will look around under/behind. Thanks for the help. This is my first
> excursion into the el
Ok, I will look around under/behind. Thanks for the help. This is my first
excursion into the electrical system.
Joe
Sent from my iPad
> On Mar 11, 2015, at 9:52 PM, Edd Schillay wrote:
>
> Joe,
>
> On my 37+, there's a negative ground block behind the panel and one under. If
> you can't
Joe,
On my 37+, there's a negative ground block behind the panel and one under. If
you can't locate one, you can just connect the negative to any ground anywhere
else on the boat.
All the best,
Edd
---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City
Hey All
I am looking at installing a DC refrig system. The old one I pulled out was AC
so I need to run new wiring. When I look at the fuse panel all I see it a
place for the positive wire. I don't see anywhere to attach the negative or
anywhere that the negative comes into the panel. Should
Huh?
On 3/12/2015 12:49 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List wrote:
I will look into some of those glass options as the floor of the cockpit needs
to be rebuilt
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To change your list preferences, including unsubsc
Thanks for the mighty suggestions. I think I'll take the simple route and use
plywood but I will look into some of those glass options as the floor of the
cockpit needs to be rebuilt.
The weather is warming up here almost to the point fast epoxy will setup! I'm
looking forward to sailing this
Brent:
Check the website for Composite Soplutions, Inc. in Hingham MA. Jeff Kent
is a "composite master" and would have lots of ssugestions or even maybe has
a pert that might work.
http://csi-composites.com
Tell him I sent you.
Ron Casciato
Impromptu
C&C 38MKIIC'77
-Original Messag
With sea water in the 80s and even the 90s sometimes, you can get bottom growth
quickly in central and southern Florida. With no paint, after a month, the
bottom would be covered in algae and barnacles.
In Tampa Bay, where I now live, algae growth is so intense that you can't buy
or use many
Mike
If I kept my boat in the northwest Arm I would go with Bob's
experience...use Micron 66 if you can get it...as you know Bob is quite
meticulous about Azura and he follows manufacturer's directions well...one
year he had so much growth on his prop (2 blade fixed) in late september
that the boa
So i spoke to a gentleman at the registry office in Ottawa or wherever it is,
and he tells me if I have the title signed over by the previous owner and
something about de-registering it in Michigan I should be good to go. If you
don't remember, I don't have the builders certificate for my 1985 C
I can't address the original question, but to Doug's comment I also
swear by 'Knytex,' which is a trade name from one manufacturer. It's
biaxial with mat sewn together, without the binders that limit one to
polyester resins. Once I discovered it, I never used anything else.
You can lay up re
Brent,
I'd keep it simple.
>From the manual it looks like the original was made from plywood with a
basic foil shape.
I would get some plywood, shape one out of that to fit, round the front
edge, taper the trailing edge, cover it with a layer or two of fibreglass
and go out and have fun. It is j
They were astoundingly lucky they didn’t dump half their crew off the boat in
the dark.
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 3:11 PM
To: Martin DeYoung; cnc-list@cnc-list.c
When the former Donneybrook hit a rock exiting the Bay the skipper broke
several ribs on the wheel. The boat was going 12 knots. It was a total
loss.
No one on Vestas was hearing a PFD or harness in clear violation of ISAF
requirements. Apparently safety was not a primary concern.
Joel
On Wed
On the Eastern Shore, a local J-80 was dry sailed. If she was launched for a
Wednesday race, she needed a quick 'floss' (dragging a bed sheet from side to
side) for Saturday. Last year, we (another J-80) had one year old Vivid and a
diver every other week - noticed some drag so had the diver com
Most of the race boats in Annapolis are painted and have weekly cleanings!
If you dive and have Wednesdays free you can pick up some good money!
J30 class rules prohibit dry sailing, and no one dares go bare.
Joel
On Wed, Mar 11, 2015 at 2:26 PM, robert via CnC-List
wrote:
> Jack:
>
> Some of
> At that kind of speed it's incredible there weren't serious personal injuries
> from the reef grounding situation. Bodies must have gone flying . .
I believe the impact was less violent because the keel was canted to weather.
On our old school boats with a fixed keel a grounding at speed equa
Jack:
Some of the 'sport boats' at our club don't use any antifouling paint
and haul regularly with our 5 ton crane to clean by regularly,
probably monthly.
You say you have a monthly scrubbing by a diverwhy bother with an
antifouling paint with a monthly scrubbing?
Rob Abbott
AZUR
Make a profile from the inside of the dagger board well. Then I'd start
with:
http://www.fibreglast.com/product/Polyisocyanurate_Foam_Sheets_440/Foam for
shape.
You could bump up to 6 lb foam but I don't think you need the extra
strength or cost.
Using polyester or vinylester resin, bond a laye
You might be able use a method like this to make a hollow daggerboard that
wouldn't float.
http://epoxyworks.com/index.php/the-lost-foam-method-of-composite-fabrication/
Josh
On Mar 11, 2015 12:04 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Good day folks.
> Last year I w
I have had Trinidad on the bottom for three years without a haulout, but with
monthly scrubbing by a diver. It still has plenty of potency. I figure I will
haul at around five years.
Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie e, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|P
Thanks
Currently have Petit Vivid on our boat. Am assuming is much the same as Micron
CSC in its use and anti fouling effectiveness
Mike
Persistence
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 1:20 PM
T
Kevlar makes cutting and shaping a real pain in the butt. For a small
project like that there is no reason fiberglass won't be sufficient.
I would suggest foam insulation board from a home improvement store. A 2"
thick 4x8 piece would be good for a couple different tries. The high
density stuff
Bacon's has old Laser daggerboards cheap. I used one for my emergency
rudder contraption. I need to go there anyhow, so I could see what they
have.
Joel
35/3
Annapolis
On Wed, Mar 11, 2015 at 12:52 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Thanks. If I don't have any in
Thanks. If I don't have any info on it by May Id be very happy to get it from
you then. I was considering plywood too. My old Bonito daggerboard is ply and
it works well. I was thinking the invitation might have a more built up foil
shape like a Laser which may be a little harder to make from pl
A friend of mine that does a lot of glass work swears by the Bi-axial cloth
and epoxy resin.
Doug
sv Pegasus
Just west of Ballard Wa.
LF38
On Wed, Mar 11, 2015 at 9:02 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Good day folks.
> Last year I was gifted a tired Bombardier Inv
Bent,
I have a boat like this, as well. I have it at the cottage, so I cannot take
any measurements at this time. It won't happen until some time in May (if
you are still interested).
I found a manual here: http://www.iei.liu.se/flumes/bjorn/triss_racer?l=en
(it is big and the connection is
+ 1 on Petit Trinidad. It is the #1 recommended paint for overall
effectiveness / durability in these here parts.. I'm not in salt water
(But I am in a warm climate that is very conducive to slime) so far (1
year) it lives up to the hype and the bottom is completely slime / growth
free / smooth
Good day folks.
Last year I was gifted a tired Bombardier Invitation 3.8. With a little TLC
I'll get her sailing agains but the boat came without a daggerboard. I'm going
to make a composite one. Two questions. I've scoured the Internet for a design
detail of the board but have come up with not
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