Posts'
Subject: RE: Advice on Desoldering an IC
I decided to invest in a Hakko FR-301. It worked almost immediately. Hours of
trying before, I did it in 10 minutes!
Regards
Rob
> -Original Message-
> From: cctalk On Behalf Of dwight via
> cctalk
> Sent: 16 April 20
On 4/22/22 12:03 PM, Rob Jarratt via cctalk wrote:
I decided to invest in a Hakko FR-301. It worked almost
immediately. Hours of trying before, I did it in 10 minutes!
Thank you for the feedback and the comparison of without and with it.
--
Grant. . . .
unix || die
-Topic Posts
>
> Subject: Re: Advice on Desoldering an IC
>
> Sometimes the IC has been installed with the pins under tension. This is
> typical of machine inserted ICs. When the solder is loose, bend the pin away
> from the side it is pressed against. Do this carefully, don't ov
Sometimes the IC has been installed with the pins under tension. This is
typical of machine inserted ICs. When the solder is loose, bend the pin away
from the side it is pressed against. Do this carefully, don't over bend. You
want it to center in the hole. I recommend doing this with a separate
I had to desolder a fairly large number of 14/16 pin ICs from a two layer
PCB recently. I had an basic soldering iron and a spring loaded solder
sucker thing. I also had some wick but never having had good results with
this, I decided not to bother trying it this time.
I was aware of the idea of
As mentioned, I find it best to cut the pins off the IC right at the IC
body and then remove them individually. Once the IC is removed, I use a
third hand to hold the board vertically, and then grab each pin with
tweezers or needle-nose pliers from one side of the board and lightly
touch the s
On 4/15/22 17:12, W2HX wrote:
> Just be careful around cerroblend. According to Wikipedia...
>
> "... is a metal alloy that is useful for soldering and making custom metal
> parts, but which is toxic to touch or breathe vapors from."
> "...is toxic because it contains lead and cadmium, and conta
ative. The
dust may form flammable mixtures with air."
73 Eugene W2HX
Subscribe to my Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/c/w2hx-channel/videos
-Original Message-
From: cctalk On Behalf Of Chuck Guzis via cctalk
Sent: Friday, April 15, 2022 7:42 PM
To: Fred Cisin via cctal
For very-difficult de-soldering, I use a variation on the Chip-Quik
idea. I take a hunk of Cerrobend 158 fusible alloy and a file and make
a small pile of powder from it. I then pack the powder around the pins
of the IC to remove and heat the area using the light from a 75 watt
PAR-38 halogen re
Once the chip is out, for cleaning out the holes, I used a spring loaded
solder sucker on one side of the board, with soldering iron on the other
side.
also, solder wick
sometimes a wooden toothpick
in extreme cases, a small drill bit turned by hand in a pin vise (NOT
chucked up in a powered 1/
--Original Message-
From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-boun...@classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of Rob Jarratt
via cctalk
Sent: 15 April 2022 22:33
To: 'Chris Zach' ; 'General Discussion: On-Topic and
Off-Topic Posts'
Subject: RE: Advice on Desoldering an IC
I do have some diagonal cu
April 2022 18:51
To: r...@jarratt.me.uk; Rob Jarratt ; General Discussion:
On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts ; Rob Jarratt via cctalk
Subject: Re: Advice on Desoldering an IC
Cut the pins with a very sharp set of dykes then remove them one at a time.
Then use flux and detailer braid to remove the s
; Rob Jarratt ; General
Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts ; Rob Jarratt
via cctalk
Subject: Re: Advice on Desoldering an IC
Cut the pins with a very sharp set of dykes then remove them one at a time.
Then use flux and detailer braid to remove the solder
On April 15, 2022 1:49:33 PM EDT
Rob
I would imagine that an 11/24 CPU is at least a 4 layer board, with power
planes and hopefully thermal reliefs at pins connected to a plane. The pins
you will be having difficulty with are most likely on the Gnd or Vcc plane. I
often leave those pins for last, once in the groove. And, I'
I would not attempt any desoldering without my hakko 808. I never leave home
with out it. While you are sucking and heating the pin, wiggle the pin and it
work great. I've desoldered 40 pin chips without trouble, they drop right out
of the board. I desoldered this 40 pin chip from a working devi
On 15/04/2022 18:49, Rob Jarratt via cctalk wrote:
I am using a fairly cheap desoldering station (this one
https://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d00672/desoldering-station-uk-eu-plug/dp/SD
01384?st=duratool%20desoldering). Its spec in terms of vacuum pressure is
equivalent to that of the professional
I have to second this comment.
I learned to solder in the early 70s building kits and again
professionally in the early 80s.
In the early days of thicker circuit boards (2 layer only). A solder
sucker and solder wick would work.
However, the most expedient and safest way in terms of potent
I am trying to remove an IC from my PDP 11/24 CPU, a DS8641. I am really
struggling to desolder it. I am using the technique of applying fresh solder
and then removing it. But after multiple cycles of this I think I am
starting to damage the PCB.
Are there any tips for removing ICs?
Thanks
Rob
Cut the pins with a very sharp set of dykes then remove them one at a time.
Then use flux and detailer braid to remove the solder
On April 15, 2022 1:49:33 PM EDT, Rob Jarratt via cctalk
wrote:
>I am trying to remove an IC from my PDP 11/24 CPU, a DS8641. I am really
>struggling to desolder it.
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