[RBW] Re: FS: Jumbo Rosco Bubbe Iditabike

[Spencer Robinson]

I rode with Kai a few years ago and got to see this piece of rolling art up 
close…it is very well done and a great bike .
On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 8:48:30 AM UTC-5 ian m wrote:

> You may get one snowy ride in with this weekend's Noreaster
>
> On Thursday, January 4, 2024 at 5:56:03 PM UTC-5 Josh C wrote:
>
>> Killer Kia, just killer!
>>
>> On Thursday, January 4, 2024 at 3:21:06 PM UTC-5 antc...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Flippin' heck, that is one wild build! Any idea on minimum saddle height 
>>> and max tire size?
>>>
>>> On Thursday, January 4, 2024 at 12:54:49 PM UTC-6 Teague Scott wrote:
>>>
 Oh man. I’ve been waiting for the day one of these popped up here. 
 Alas, now is just not the time for me. Someone is gonna be a lucky dog!

 On Thursday, January 4, 2024 at 11:02:37 AM UTC-7 steve...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> Nice build Kai - for sure the wildest Rivendell I've seen yet. Just 
> looking at your pics makes me want to go bike packing. Dare I say gnarly 
> ?!? 
>
> Sooner or later  it's gonna snow and you're gonna miss that two 
> wheeled pack mule . 
>
> On Thursday, January 4, 2024 at 9:31:47 AM UTC-5 mcgr...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Beautiful bike!
>>
>> On Wednesday, January 3, 2024 at 11:35:50 PM UTC-5 Pam Bikes wrote:
>>
>>> Nice bike but what size is it?  I only the sizes Riv offers.  I'm on 
>>> the short end 47.  When was it built?  Was it a protoype for the Betty 
>>> Foy 
>>> or Cheviot?
>>> On Wednesday, January 3, 2024 at 7:03:57 PM UTC-5 Mackenzy Albright 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 This legitimately might be one of the coolest niche Rivendell 
 builds I've seen. *slowly leaves room to avoid impulse decisions* 

 On Wednesday, January 3, 2024 at 3:15:55 PM UTC-8 Bones wrote:

> I thought the day would never come! Really cool bike Kai. I'm sure 
> you'll find it a new home.
>
> Bones
>
> On Wednesday, January 3, 2024 at 5:33:04 PM UTC-5 Kainalu V. 
> -Brooklyn NY wrote:
>
>> Multiple Roscos and multiple bills aren’t adding up, and ever 
>> since I put it together, it hasn’t snowed😩. So here for sale is the 
>> bestest bike for the larger folks out there. I think it measures 64 
>> at the 
>> seat tube, but I’ve got a geometry chart somewhere I’ll plug in here 
>> asap. 
>> Pictures
>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/U18G3VtrhaWFDisWA
>> Some weird rare parts, some not. Heartily patinated racks with 
>> internally wired dynamo lights and handmade wooden fenders (pretty 
>> lightweight actually). Racks and fenders made by me, the front rack 
>> can 
>> carry anything you can get into some panniers, with the rear rack 
>> only ever 
>> having held that light there and the fender steady, as I’m hesitant 
>> to load 
>> up the back of toptubeless frame. 
>> I’m keeping the grips and the seat, but everything else you see 
>> is included. Also included is a new Mavic 319 rim for when you’d 
>> like to 
>> swap out the front. Rear wheel came with my Clem and hasn’t seen 
>> much of 
>> the world.
>> Very rare! Highly collectible?!
>> $2000.
>> Thanks for looking, and happy rolling to all
>> -Kai
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Heron Road Seatpost Size?

[Spencer Robinson]

Sorry to be late on this but  I can confirm that My Heron Road has a 27.2mm 
post.

On Thursday, May 23, 2024 at 9:19:16 PM UTC-4 Zac wrote:

> Can anyone confirm the seat post on their Heron Road is 27.2mm? 
>
> According to Sheldon Brown's database, all Heron's use a 27.2 post, but 
> the one I just tried to install wasn't going in at all. I rode by a shop 
> and their calipers gave 26.8-9 for both the seat tube and existing seat 
> post. 
>
> The bike is fairly new to me, perhaps the seat tube got pinched at the top 
> at some point.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Let’s talk: 1 Up USA, Quickr Racks

[Spencer Robinson]

I am using a 1UP rack this season and my experience is that it is very well 
made, I truly believe you could move an upright Piano on it.
Fenders are a challenge on this design, narrow fenders not so much but on 
my 60mm, plastic fender, 650B bike, I take the bolts that attach the fender 
struts out, and put the rear tire hold down under the fender, then use a 
small bungee to keep the fender from wiggling. 
It takes me less than 5 minutes… not too much of a problem. The peace of 
mind is worth the effort. On my Sam, with more narrow, Alloy, VO fenders, I 
just go right on the fender with the hold down…I don’t use any spacer 
between the tire and fender….seems fine. 
I should say that I do not get too stressed about scratches or 
imperfections.

On Thursday, August 1, 2024 at 1:02:23 AM UTC-4 tob...@gmail.com wrote:

> Figured I'd add my perspective, as I recently found a great solution to 
> putting a fendered bike on a 1up rack.
>
> I've run a few fendered bikes on my 1up over the years, and while it does 
> work *ok,* i've never felt as confident in the bike's stability compared 
> to how sturdy a non-fendered bike feels. On top of that, my clem's fender 
> had gotten pretty beat up from being hauled around town on the 1up. Then I 
> saw this video by Brain Chapman 
>  and 
> decided to rinko by Clem's rear fender with the explicit purpose of having 
> a better way to run it on the 1up. 
>
> It took a few hours of tinkering in the garage, but the effort was worth 
> it. The only special parts you'll need is a rinko nut 
>  from 
> Rene Herse and an extra section of fender. I used some saddle rivets from 
> Selle Anatomica to attach the inner support and found a d-ring from an old 
> silver bar end shifter to secure the sections of fender together.

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[RBW] Re: Triple cranks for 9-speed build: advise me

[Spencer Robinson]

I agree with Cal…if you are not to fussy about blemishes, you can find a 
good used set.

On Sunday, August 18, 2024 at 5:49:36 PM UTC-4 Cal Patterson wrote:

> Shimano m730 is about as good as it gets for my eyes.  Or mt-60.  Or 
> Sugino AT, or VT, or the Ritchey ones...
>
> On Sunday, August 18, 2024 at 1:35:16 PM UTC-7 dros...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I'm running vintage Ritchey's on my Gus and they work just fine. I just 
>> sold a vintage Deore triple on Ebay for $10.50 from a Covid build that I 
>> ended up not doing. They were absolutely perfect with just a little 
>> cosmetic wear. It's hard to beat a decent vintage square taper so long as 
>> the tapers are still in good shape. The only reason I'd probably buy a new 
>> crank for a Riv build is if I wanted crank arms shorter than 170mm. 
>>
>> On Sunday, August 18, 2024 at 3:26:38 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> "Silver is a little too spendy for me"
>>>
>>> Silver arms only retail for $190.  What do you want to pay for Silvers? 
>>>  I've got two sets of 173mm arms only that I could conceivably let go. If 
>>> you want used Silvers for less than those $50 Dimensions that Garth was 
>>> promoting, then I'd keep mine.  :). 
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sunday, August 18, 2024 at 10:07:46 AM UTC-7 smer...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 I am putting together an Atlantis for touring/long rides/light trail 
 use.

 I am thinking of using a new Velo Orange fluted triple or perhaps 
 picking up a used Shimano XTR M900. 

 Silver is a little too spendy for me, and I given that am built like a 
 tank and ride accordingly, think the Clipper/New Albion triples might not 
 be hardy enough.

 I figured if anyone would have an informed opinion on this crucial 
 matter, it would be this bunch. What would you do?

 smm

>>>

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[RBW] Re: SimpleOne/Quickbeam sizing question

[spencer robinson]

That is a Great Photo!! should be in the catalog 

On Saturday, May 9, 2020 at 12:24:54 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Here's a photo of me QB in action.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> [image: IMG_6884.JPG]
>
>
> On Saturday, May 9, 2020 at 9:47:50 AM UTC-6, Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow 
> Haus Bicycles wrote:
>>
>> I like your style, Deacon.  I'm an 89 pbh and I think I'm aiming at a 64 
>> or 65 C-T frame ideallylooks like the Simple One topped out at 62
>>
>> On Saturday, May 9, 2020 at 11:37:56 AM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>>
>>> I like a larger frame in the pre-long chain stay bikes. My PBH is 90, my 
>>> QB is 66, and I love how it rides with bullmoose bars as a fixed cross bike.
>>>
>>> With abandon,
>>> Patrick
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS 1989 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp resto mod

[spencer robinson]

On Friday, May 15, 2020 at 9:01:51 AM UTC-4, Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow Haus 
Bicycles wrote:
>
> Wow❤️, that is one very nice jumper of stumps! Ok ok ...what can I part 
> withshoot.

i doubt it will last long 

>  

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[RBW] Re: Cracked Tension Bolt on B17

[spencer robinson]

Brady,
You need the tensioner bolt that is on the front of the saddle? I have one 
here in my box of interesting things. , the bolt with the nut on it. I am 
not sure how you change it but you are welcome to it. I am up the river in 
Columbia County. Send me a USPS address and I can stick it in the mail.


On Wednesday, June 10, 2020 at 6:19:57 PM UTC-4, Brady Smith wrote:

> I know there are a few old threads on this but I thought I’d ask if anyone 
> had recent experiences of replacing the tension bolt on a B17 saddle. Mine 
> has snapped after about 3000 miles, or roughly a year. I haven’t heard back 
> from Brooks customer service yet and the only replacement I could find on 
> the webs will take about 3 weeks to get to me (odd thing to be sold out 
> everywhere...). Is this doable at home? Has anyone successfully substituted 
> something from the hardware store? I’ll be riding my backup bike with a 
> Cambium in the meantime and after today’s ride I can confirm that the 
> Cambium is not nearly as comfortable...

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Re: [RBW] Can I fit J. App. or AHH in back of Civic or Impreza with back seat down?

[spencer robinson]

+1 for the Hondas! My daughter has a Fit and she was able to rescue me on 
day, Sam H fits in the fit with the wheels on.
I have a Ridgeline and the Sam will fit in the back seat or the bed.  Been 
looking for a decent element but good ones are pricy now a days.

On Friday, June 19, 2020 at 6:20:21 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Yayyy!!! 

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[RBW] Re: Bike Snob NYC gets a Platypus

[spencer robinson]

I believe the Bike Snob to be 5’10” and he chose a 60mm frame, I see he has 
a a decent amount of seat post showing. I bet it rides nice

On Tuesday, May 11, 2021 at 7:25:33 PM UTC-4 Roberta wrote:

> He's quite excited!
>
> So, that makes three in his household within the past year--AHHilsen, Clem 
> L (for his wife), and Platypus.  
>
> https://bikesnobnyc.com/2021/05/11/its-here-its-here/ 
>

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[RBW] Re: Question for people who have ridden Compass/Rene Hearse tires

[spencer robinson]

Chris, pump the tires up to max recommend psi…i bet the weld steer goes 
away…I think the guys at compass/Rene Hearse are like 130 - 150 lbs soakin 
wet…you will need a higher pressure to find the sweet spot. 
On Sunday, June 13, 2021 at 2:44:31 PM UTC-4 Jason Fuller wrote:

> in the meantime, I'd bump the pressure up a little bit so it's not super 
> annoying!  But yeah, had similar experience with Rat Trap Pass EL's and 
> they're good now - still kinda loud for a slick, but more of a hum.  Oddly 
> my Babyshoe Pass are dead quiet 
>
> On Sunday, 13 June 2021 at 07:42:38 UTC-7 Geir Bentzen wrote:
>
>> I'm running the 700C x 44 Snoqualmie Pass Endurance on my 62 cm 
>> Hunqapillar now. Earlier I had a set of 38 mm Barlow Pass with the 
>> ultralight casing. I also have a set of 50 mm Schwalbe Marathon for it. And 
>> I have used one type and size of tire up front and a different in the back. 
>> I even had an old 35 mm cheap tire on in the front for a long ride once. 
>> They all worked fine on the bike, and I'm a heavy rider. But I do pump them 
>> up to between 50 and 60 psi and I have noticed issues when I simply don't 
>> care and continue riding the air pressure down to the 20s. Having ridden 
>> bikes for 55 years I believe I can claim that issues with steering are 
>> normal when the tire pressure is too low for your weight and may be 
>> expected with all tires. Even with good pressure up front and too low in 
>> the rear the bike will start to wander. Heavier people need more air 
>> pressure to keep the tires from deforming too much. I agree with the others 
>> here who advise you too experiment with the tire pressure and find your own 
>> personal level for whichever set of tires you happen to use. In general 
>> that goes for everything with a bike; make the bike feel good and work well 
>> for you and disregard all the norms of the day. Those will be different 
>> another day.
>>
>> On Sunday, June 13, 2021 at 6:53:30 AM UTC-5 Chris L wrote:
>>
>>> This sounds exactly like what I'm experiencing, both in the wheel flop 
>>> and the sound volume when the tires are not going in a straight line.  
>>>
>>> Thanks for sharing.  Knowing this may be the case makes it much easier 
>>> to stick with the tires long enough for the issue to resolve itself.
>>>
>>> On Saturday, June 12, 2021 at 9:59:52 PM UTC-5 brendonoid wrote:
>>>
 Interesting that this topic has come up. I have just put 300kms on some 
 Antelope Hills on a 57 Appaloosa. 
 When I first put them on I was dismayed at the wheel flop or 'self 
 steering'. I thought I had wasted a lot of money and was pretty bitter. I 
 have run them consistently at 30psi on road and gravel. I weigh 80kgs.

 Don't panic. Once the weird waxy coating on the new rubber wears off, 
 for me this was around 150kms in, the weird handling disappears. Seems 
 that 
 the tackiness of whatever this residue is imparts strange grip as the 
 tread 
 pattern transistions going into a turn.

 See how you go.

 On Sunday, 13 June 2021 at 05:12:29 UTC+8 Chris L wrote:

> I forgot to mention that I went with Endurance casing, which is the 
> same threads as the ultralight, but more densely packed.  
>
> When it cools down later today and then tomorrow morning, I'll play 
> with pressure extremes and see where that gets me. 
>
> On Saturday, June 12, 2021 at 2:43:34 PM UTC-5 Ray Varella wrote:
>
>> Chris,
>>  You don’t mention which casing you purchased but the lighter weight 
>> sidewalls require more pressure than many tires with heavier casings. 
>> From your description, it sounds like your pressure is too low. 
>> I’ve had similar experiences when I have had a slow leak on a ride 
>> and could feel the handling change as the pressure dropped. 
>> At 380 pounds you might try raising the pressure a bit and lower it 
>> if the ride seems too harsh. 
>>
>> Ray
>>
>> On Saturday, June 12, 2021 at 11:36:23 AM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>>> I feel that an opportunity to use the phrase high-falutin was missed 
>>> here. 
>>>
>>>
>>> On Saturday, June 12, 2021 at 10:39:22 AM UTC-7 Garth wrote:
>>>
 Just ride and play with tire pressures. 
 Find your own sweet spot, nobody can ride your bike like you.
 If no sweet spot is found, yeah so what ? Not everyone finds 
 Compass tires to their liking you know. With high cost comes high 
 expectations and even higher self-justifications. 
 On Saturday, June 12, 2021 at 10:48:55 AM UTC-4 Chris L wrote:

> I just put a set of 55mm Antelope Hill tires on a set of Dyad rims 
> and installed them on my Hunqapillar.  
>
> The tires, at slower speeds, have a TON of self-steer and in 
> anything other than a straight line, they are LOUD.   
>
> Riding on a 3' w

[RBW] ISO jack Brown

[spencer robinson]

I am looking for one or 2 Jack Brown tires. I am trying to fit the largest 
tire that makes sense on my Heron Road. I can get a 700x35 on the front but 
too tight at the brake in the rear, I think a jack brown will fit the rear, 
as a 700x32 gravel king is no problem with room. 
I think the 1st gen Heron Road was built around short reach brakes so the 
rear is tighter.
If anyone has a jack brown in their tire pile or a pair, I would be 
interested 
Thanks
Spencer

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Re: [RBW] Yet another round of name that sound

[spencer robinson]

I also have been following this discussion and I though I would share 
another source for a rhythmic creaking issue I had…
I would get a creak, every revolution of the crank. I determined that the 
creak was present out of the saddle as well as in the saddle. I swapped out 
the pedals, still creaking
Removed both crank arms, checked bolts, still creaking
Swapped out the BB with a known good BB, Still creaking
Finally during a test ride, I went to the real axel and tightened the quick 
release…it was snug, but I made it a little tighter and that was it! This 
was on a Sam frame with vertical drop-outs…musta been just enough play 
between the axel and the dropout to create a creak each revolution, when 
the drive side came around the power quadrant of the stroke. I am a big 
rider and the creaking was worse when I was powering up a hill.

On Monday, July 26, 2021 at 10:04:15 AM UTC-4 David Wadstrup wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> While I've been reading all of these suggestions as they came through, 
> it's not until now that I'm replying.  Sorry.  I am dumbfounded by all the 
> the great ideas and thought people have put into helping me with my problem 
> -- THANK YOU!  So... just yesterday afternoon I removed and reinstalled the 
> cassette.  I also added a small touch of grease to the splines, as 
> suggested.  I wasn't able to take it out do to a day full of rain, but I 
> hope to tomorrow.  I'll report back on my findings.  
>
> I ended up just making the one "adjustment" so I would be able to 
> determine if it, and not any other adjustments, was the real solution.  I 
> fit doesn't work, I'll move onto the BB.
>
> To answer a few of the questions here.  all components including chain 
> are in great, lightly used, condition.  This is the bike that sees the 
> least use, even more so after a year of the pandemic, and I would imagine 
> that everything has less than 1,000 miles on it.  I don't keep track of my 
> mileage, and am a really bad estimator of it, so it could be even quite a 
> bit less than this.  Definitely not more.  
>
> I did remove and reinsert the seat post, and loosen and re-tighten the 
> saddle bolt.  This has traditionally been the number one source of 
> mysterious noises for me, but my fiddling had no effect this time.  Which I 
> kind of suspected, given that the noises also occur when I'm out of the 
> saddle.
>
> Regarding the construction of the cassette... the 3 largest cogs are 
> indeed on a "sub cluster assembly," which I found to be quite interesting 
> given that it is only these three that make this noise.  Seems like the 
> rivets or just the construction of this part as a whole, could be the 
> culprit, as suggested.  Maybe my locking was a little on the loose side, 
> and maybe there was some play between this cluster and the rest of the 
> cogs?  I sure hope so!
>
> Anyways, that you all for your time and the thoughtful replies -- they 
> mean a lot!
>
> I have another, unrelated question that I'll ask in a separate post.  See 
> you there, I hope!
>
> On Thursday, July 22, 2021 at 8:32:48 PM UTC-4 campyo...@me.com wrote:
>
>> Have you tried taking off the cassette and lightly greasing the splines 
>> before reassembling? I used to get a similar sound on my Campy 
>> freehub-equipped bikes, and this always worked.
>>
>> --Eric Norris
>> campyo...@me.com
>> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
>> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy  
>>
>> On Jul 22, 2021, at 2:49 PM, RichS  wrote:
>>
>> Hello David,
>>
>> Lots of helpful solutions provided by the group so I'm sure you'll 
>> discover the problem soon. In addition to the cassette noise do you notice 
>> a creaky sound coming from your stem? Perhaps the sounds are coming from 
>> multiple locations? 
>>
>> Best,
>> Rich in ATL
>>
>> On Thursday, July 22, 2021 at 10:28:17 AM UTC-4 bdcamp...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I would try the following (assumning you have not already):
>>>
>>> 1. Swap the bb.
>>> 2. Light bit of grease of the tapers when installing the cranks
>>> 3. Uninstall and re-install the cassette
>>> 4. Check the chain for wear and make sure the master link is proerly 
>>> secured.
>>> 5. Check the front derailer adujustment to make sure the cage it not 
>>> hitting the chain or possibly somethig else
>>> 6. If you re wearing cleated shoes make sure the cleats are tight. Lower 
>>> gearrs means lower pressure/contact with the pedals.
>>> 7.  Make sure the chainring bolts are tight.
>>> 8. IS the spacer (if there is one for 11 speed ) the correct width?
>>>
>>> Good luck and hope you solve it quickly!
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, July 21, 2021 at 11:47:06 AM UTC-4 brettjc...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 This is going to sound crazy, but is it the saddle, seatpost, or their 
 interface? That's happened to me more than once, and I've chased sounds 
 that I'm sure are bottom bracket, crank, or cassette related only to 
 discover that in certain gears or at certain effort levels, my saddle is 
 clicking. (In fact, thi

[RBW] WTB Nitto 120mm quill

[Spencer Robinson]

I am looking for a 120 or even 130 Nitto quill stem, it can be 26 or 25.4. 
I would prefer 25.4 as I am clamping Albatross bars. 
If you have a stem laying around, I would rather buy off the list than go 
to eBay.
Thanks
Spencer 

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[RBW] Re: VP 001 rebuild kit

[spencer robinson]

Hi John,
I rebuild a set last year, you just need a socket that will fit down in 
there to get that nut off...one side is threads reversed, If I remember 
correctly. Then with a pick or fat screw, get the old bearing out..
In hind sight, if I had to do it again, I would toss the pedals in the 
garbage bin, You can get a brand new set of Clem pedals for not much more 
than the rebuild kit. The rebuild lasted about a month and then 
clickclick.click.  I am disappointed with the performance of the VP 
001 pedals. They are really nice but seem to wear out quickly. The Clem’s 
are lighter and at the Clem price, you don’t feel so bad when or if they 
 give up on you. I have a set of Clem’s that have out lasted the 001 model. 
Maybe the composite does not telegraph the bearing clicking.

On Saturday, January 30, 2021 at 10:59:13 AM UTC-5 J Schwartz wrote:

> I did see that, thank you.
> I think there are some differences between those two pedals...but I can 
> make some assumptions based on the video about how the 001 should go back 
> together...would just rather have a definitive how-to
> JS
>
> On Saturday, January 30, 2021 at 10:57:46 AM UTC-5 Paul Clifton wrote:
>
>> There used to be a video on the VP website, but it's not there anymore. 
>> There is only a video for the Harrier rebuild. 
>> https://www.vpcomponents.com/vp-harrier-dh5-rebuild-instructions/
>> I didn't watch it, and you probably already found it, but if not, maybe 
>> that's helpful.
>>
>> Paul
>>
>> On Friday, January 29, 2021 at 5:21:52 PM UTC-6 J Schwartz wrote:
>>
>>> Hello
>>> Looking for some assistance re: VP-001 rebuilding
>>> I've managed to find a VP-001 rebuild kit, but can't seem to find any 
>>> info online about how to go about rebuilding them.
>>> Does anyone have info regarding that?
>>> I've managed to take apart the offending pedal (the right one) and 
>>> successfully tapped out 2 bearings.
>>> But I'm not sure about how get them back in...also I'm not sure if one 
>>> is different from the other and if one needs to go in first, etc.
>>> There are also collar bushings in the rebuild kit, however no bushings 
>>> like that in my pedal body.
>>> If you've done this successfully, I'd much appreciate to hear how it went
>>> thanks
>>> JS
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, September 8, 2020 at 5:29:34 AM UTC-4 spencer robinson wrote:
>>>
>>>> I did email Rivendell as I did not see the VP 001 rebuild kits listed 
>>>> but the other Spencer looked for me and found a few kits in stock. The 
>>>> rebuild is pretty straightforward and it just involved finding the right 
>>>> socket and pick to get the bushings out. The bearings are a sealed design. 
>>>> Easy to do and saved a set of pedals. I think the cost to rebuild them was 
>>>> worthwhile.
>>>>
>>>> On Wednesday, August 19, 2020 at 11:00:52 AM UTC-4 Garth wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>I have no idea if this helps or not, I take any pedal I buy apart 
>>>>> upon install and liberally apply grease in the axle. Enough that it oozes 
>>>>> out when it's back together. Knock on a Gorillas tree, everything has 
>>>>> worked perfectly. 
>>>>>
>>>>>   Some brands have very little grease from the factory. 
>>>>>
>>>>>   Before assuming the bearings are gone, if you hear noises just take 
>>>>> it apart and grease it very well. Try it out !  Grease is a great thing !
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Cycling Suspenders

[spencer robinson]

The best suspenders can be found at analog cycles ... 

On Saturday, February 20, 2021 at 12:17:41 PM UTC-5 George Schick wrote:

>
> I have a pair attached to my long-legged Winter cycling pants.  Since I 
> don't due much in the way of cold weather cycling any more, you are welcome 
> to them.  (they were gimme's from way-back-when so they have a corporate 
> logo on them).
>
> George
>
> On Saturday, February 20, 2021 at 10:44:39 AM UTC-6 campyo...@me.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Anybody have a pair of the clip-on type suspenders for bike shorts? 
>> Looking for a pair. 
>>
>> –Eric N 
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: I decided to ditch LOSCO

[spencer robinson]

I agree with Joe, I think you will like them Roberta. 

On Tuesday, February 23, 2021 at 4:30:59 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Roberta,
>
> One person's "too flexy" is another person's "absorbs some road 
> vibration", I wouldn't worry too much. I didn't notice any difference in 
> stiffness feel between it and the Boscos I ride. 
>
> On Tuesday, February 23, 2021 at 1:01:03 PM UTC-8 Roberta wrote:
>
>> James and Brett.
>>
>> I got a LOSCO from a forum member for my soon (where soon is defined as 
>> sometime this spring) to be Platypus.  Now I'm a bit nervous.  Is it that 
>> you ride your bikes "rougher and heavier" that makes the difference?  What 
>> about someone like me who will just go riding around town,  with some "as 
>> fast as I can go" rides, and only a handlebar bag (Carradice Zipped Roll) 
>> up front?
>>
>> Roberta
>>
>> On Tuesday, February 23, 2021 at 11:48:31 AM UTC-5 brettjc...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> James, your experience with the Losco was similar to my experience with 
>>> the Billie bars. I found the Billie's and an 11CM stem on my Atlantis to be 
>>> too flexy when carrying a load. I ended up going back to albatross bars on 
>>> a slightly shorter stem. A little flex was fine, but it was just too much, 
>>> especially on a heavy bike. I've been tempted to try out the Loscos or 
>>> Toscos on a lighter bike where I don't carry a front load. 
>>>
>>> Brett in PDX
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, February 23, 2021 at 5:37:43 AM UTC-8 James Valiensi wrote:
>>>
 I left him by the creek…. 
 Actually, I put LOSCO bars on my Riv custom road frame. I really liked 
 the upright position and the width of the bars. I also have a Joe A but it 
 has Albatross handle bars. 
 I found the LOSCO bars to be too flexible. I was never sure if they 
 were flexing or slipping in the stem. It was a bit disconcerting. 

 I need to have my bars higher than I am used too. I ordered a new 60mm 
 Nitto FacePlater stem and a Rene Herse Maes parallel handle bar. The clamp 
 diameter is 31,8mm. The bigger diameter is a stiffer tube and the bars 
 will 
 not flex as much as 25.4 or 26mm bars would. 
 I hope the bars will be an inch or two higher than the saddle. The 
 reach is slightly shorter than I used before, and that help keeps my upper 
 body straighter. 

 Traditional shaped bars have some advantages, like many hand positions 
 and if you have them high enough one can use the drops for the headwinds. 

 I will post a photo when the parts get put on. 

 The folks here sure have beautiful bikes. I ride in the north LA area 
 and there is no shortage of bike riders out here. But I can ride everyday 
 for a month and never see the kind of stuff posted here. 

 I was fixing a friends Rivendell and as we were loading his bike on the 
 car rack a doordash guy came by and said “That’s a Rivendell!”. We spent 
 the next 20-min talking about it and Rivendell bikes. 

 Cheers!
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] WTB Dynamo Headlight

[spencer robinson]

I am looking for a headlight to match with a new Shutter Precision hub I 
will be building up.
If anyone has a extra light.
Thanks
Spencer

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[RBW] Re: Convert to Tubeless?

[spencer robinson]

What Mike M. Said.  Also, Velocity A23/ gravel king tires are a good match, 
I have that combo on my Sam, they jumped on the rims with a floor pump

On Saturday, March 6, 2021 at 5:27:14 PM UTC-5 velomann wrote:

> My experience is limited but so far (knock on wood) positive.
> Based on that, and understanding others feel differently (sometimes 
> strongly) here's my recommendation.
>
> Don't use Stans tubeless tape. It's too stiff, hard to apply just right, 
> and too thick.
> Don't use Gorilla tape for the reasons mentioned.
> Buy some of the economical and highly effective tubeless tape Analog 
> cycles sells. I don't know what it was originally, but the stuff works 
> great. Use two layers because.
> https://analogcycles.com/product/analog-tubeless-tape/
>
> I bought a Topek Tubibooster because a compressor was overkill for me, I 
> didn't want to have to depend on borrowing one from whoever, and I have a 
> friend who has been very successful with multiple tubeless set-ups using 
> this: 
> https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-TubiBooster-One-Color-Size/dp/B084Z468P6
>
> That said, I haven't had to use it. I've so far been able to set up 
> tubeless with just a regular Joe Blow floor pump. I credit that to using 
> good tubeless rims (HED Belgium, Velocity Dually) and good tubeless 
> compatible tires (WTB Byway, WTB Trail Boss), the Analog tape, good 
> tubeless valves, and liberal soapy water on the beat before pumping 
> vigorously. So far has worked like a charm.
>
> We'll see if my luck continues. This week I'll be setting up some 
> Terravail Sparwood tires on WTB KOM i23 light rims. My next wheelset build 
> will be Velocity A23 rims with Panaracer Gravelking SK tires. Fingers 
> crossed.
>
> More tubeless info from Analog Cycles: 
> https://analogcycles.com/true-facts-components/analogs-tubeless-set-up-guide/
>
> Learning new bike skills is a good thing. 
>
> Do It & Good Luck!
>
> Mike M
>
> On Thursday, March 4, 2021 at 8:46:57 PM UTC-8 philipr...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Okey dokey folks - I'm thinking I'd like to convert my Clem Smith (650b) 
>> to tubeless. Reason being that my neighborhood and favorite route to the 
>> trails is pretty much old school industrial and I'm constantly fighting 
>> punctures from debris. Since the Alex rims look to support a tubeless set 
>> up it seems like I'll need the following;
>>
>>- tubeless compatible tires
>>- rim tape (Gorilla)
>>- tubeless valve stems
>>- tire sealant
>>
>> I have done the same conversion on a dirt motorcycle so familiar with the 
>> concept and install procedures but...
>>
>> What am I missing? Any caveats? Am I mad to attempt this? Plus any other 
>> advice would be most welcome.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Fitting 22.2mm clamp break levers to 23.8mm handlebars

[spencer robinson]

I have “opened up” the clamp on MTB shifters to use on Drops...it works 
just ok...if you had an accurate way to enlarge the diameter it would be 
better, If you don’t get them right, they slip. I agree with Joe Bernard, 
there is so much “leverage” on the brake lever perch that you might stress 
it and snap at an inopportune moment. 

On Sunday, March 14, 2021 at 11:41:20 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:

> It's a bad idea. You're taking material out of a thing designed to have 
> that much material, which isn't a huge deal for a shifter - you just lose a 
> shifter - but if you squeeze a brake lever going downhill at 25mph and the 
> clamp pops instead of pads contacting rim or disc? Buddy you got TROUBLE. 
>
>
> On Sunday, March 14, 2021 at 8:10:40 PM UTC-7 Wayne Naha wrote:
>
>> One could take some sandpaper to the inside of the clamp area, widen the 
>> diameter.  Or is that a Really Bad Idea?  Please consider your answer, and 
>> not just a knee-jerk 'dear god no!'
>
>

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[RBW] WTB 650b wheelset

[spencer robinson]

I am in search of a 650b wheelset. 130 spacing on the rear, rim brake. 
If anyone has a set that they want to clean out of the shed, I’m a buyer!

Thanks
Spencer

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[RBW] Re: Romulus death shake

[spencer robinson]

I had a Romulus (57cm) and I currently have a Heron Road….
Yes under the right conditions both of these bikes would develop a high 
speed wobble if no hands.
I was able to solve the problem by keeping at least one hand on the 
bars…problem solved for me anyway.
Unless the bike is running for the ditch or the centerline, I would not 
start bending on the forks. Sheldon’s method does work very well for 
correcting the front fork alignment but the rom is such a beautiful bike, I 
would not unless it is really bad. 

On Wednesday, September 1, 2021 at 9:28:26 AM UTC-4 rickur...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Does anyone else get the frame wobble at high speeds on smooth surfaces 
> with their Romulus? I only get it if I try to go no hands. And even the 
> smallest amount of pressure on one of the grips will stop it. 

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[RBW] Re: Not selling more bikes that need to be shipped

[spencer robinson]

Matt Beecher is on the same wavelength as me…
On the occasions that I have sold a bike to someone long distance, the 
agreement I made with the buyer is that I will not ship it…if the buyer 
still wants the bike, I give them a few local bike shops and they can make 
their own deal with the shop. I agree to drop the bike at the shop and then 
the bike is no longer mine. I prefer to find a local buyer that I can meet 
halfway.




On Friday, September 17, 2021 at 12:50:29 PM UTC-4 Matt Beecher wrote:

> I don't blame anyone for not being willing to ship.  I have my own 
> hesitations and they have not worked out well when I tried in the past.  
> I've certainly appreciated that others have shipped to me though...or in 
> one case, drove from a couple states away to deliver a bike to my house.  
>
> I think that if I were to do this, I would make the seller pay me, then I 
> would deliver the bike to a nearby shop of the buyer's choice and have him 
> deal directly with the shop for shipping, including paying the shop for 
> packing/shipping.  
>
> Best regards,
> Matt in Oswego, IL
>
> On Friday, September 17, 2021 at 9:11:20 AM UTC-5 ascpgh wrote:
>
>> I think that it behooves seller/packer/shipper to make use of the easily 
>> videoed condition of the bike, the degree of protections employed and the 
>> intact exterior of packaging when shipping as part of a transaction.
>>
>> Likewise, as a receiver/buyer/unpacker, there is a powerful bit of proof 
>> that is fleeting to video the external condition of the delivered package, 
>> the careful opening of the package and materials to expose the arrived 
>> condition of the item. 
>>
>> I think this documentation really eliminates the opportunity for parties 
>> to the process to weasel out of responsibility for damage if it is 
>> demonstrated. My undamaged  new rando frame, fork, stem, rack and decaleur 
>> from Johnny Coast: https://photos.app.goo.gl/3rzbhNmBw2ioiddH7
>>
>> A new bike shipped to my shop was damaged when removed from its box. It 
>> was a pre-season delivery bike, stored as shipped, waiting for assembly and 
>> stock on the floor. Both right stays and rear wheel were bent beyond 
>> straightening and treating as useful. On examination (MUCH more than that 
>> upon delivery) a forklift tire tread was found across the box which was 
>> otherwise in very good condition, not repaired or wrinkled with additional 
>> creases you'd expect of such.
>>
>>
>> Andy Cheatham
>> Pittsburgh
>> On Thursday, September 16, 2021 at 7:48:32 PM UTC-5 maxcr wrote:
>>
>>> Not a rant, just a fact - it's just not worth the hassle.
>>>
>>> I have sold 3 bikes locally with no issue. Then, out of the other 3 that 
>>> I have sold - all packed professionally by reputable bike shops and shipped 
>>> with a full service shipper (bikeflights or the other one)- I have had 
>>> problems with two of them.
>>>
>>> They have insurance and I can go fight the carrier for it, or the LBS or 
>>> the buyer, but it's just not worth the hassle... not doing it anymore.
>>>
>>> What's your experience shipping bikes? What am I doing wrong?
>>>
>>> Max
>>> Trying to make things right by the buyer of my AHH
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Fenders for bikes with big tires

[spencer robinson]

Let me know how you make out with getting those fenders to play along with 
the V brakes…I have never had much luck

On Monday, October 4, 2021 at 12:30:23 AM UTC-4 Philip Williamson wrote:

> I have some VO noir 63mm fenders for my non-Riv custom, to cover Fleecer 
> ridge tire. 
> Unfortunately, the fenders are still in their (quite nice) packaging, 
> hanging on the wall of my shed. 
>
> The fenders look great, and in the future I will figure out how to mount 
> them with V-brakes. For my particular bike, that looks non-trivial, since 
> the brake cross-wire would pass directly through the fender. My hypothesis 
> is that I can just run the wire OVER the fender with a bit of helicopter 
> tape to protect the fender. Wires go around corners all the time. 
> I haven't tested my hypothesis yet, but if you've got V brakes, you might 
> want to visualize where the fender will intersect. 
>
> Philip 
> Sonoma County, Calif
>
> On Sunday, October 3, 2021 at 11:45:34 AM UTC-7 johnny@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>> Winter is coming **
>>
>> And so fenders are needed. I have a Hunqapillar with some big 2.1" tires. 
>> My fender requirements are that they must fit, be pretty and not too short. 
>> I like long fenders because long fenders + mud-flaps keep the muck off.  
>>
>> Here's where I'm at... 
>>
>>- Planet Bike fenders are too short, I think. These must be for 
>>Californians 
>>- PDW Full Metal Fenders are great, i have them on a different bike, 
>>but unsure if the 55mm will fit my 2.1's
>>- The SKS B65 may fit the bill, it's what Riv recommends, but they 
>>look really short (here 
>>
>> 
>>  is 
>>the riv link with pic) and... plastic
>>- Velo Orange seems to have some nice fenders in 63mm here they are 
>>
>> 
>>
>> These are going to last a really long time so price isn't really a 
>> deciding factor. I also want them to look good, because I'm vain. After 
>> typing all of this it appears I'm leaning toward the VO fenders, how do 
>> folks here feel about them? How's their longevity?
>>
>> thank you,
>> Johnny B in Portland
>>
>

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[RBW] Trade 26.8 Nitto 83 for 27.2

[spencer robinson]

All, I have a Nitto , 2 bolt, silver, Model 83, 26.8 Diameter that I would 
like to trade for a 27.2.
My post is pretty nice, it has been used, it does show some light marks and 
scratches. 

I would like to trade for a 27.2 post that is similar.

Thanks 

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[RBW] Re: Trade 26.8 Nitto 83 for 27.2

[spencer robinson]

The seat post is a done deal. 
Thank you


On Monday, October 4, 2021 at 10:10:08 AM UTC-4 spencer robinson wrote:

> All, I have a Nitto , 2 bolt, silver, Model 83, 26.8 Diameter that I would 
> like to trade for a 27.2.
> My post is pretty nice, it has been used, it does show some light marks 
> and scratches. 
>
> I would like to trade for a 27.2 post that is similar.
>
> Thanks 
>

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[RBW] Re: Front Derailleur Recommendation for 64 Clem L

[spencer robinson]

Hey Justin,
If you are friction shifting it, Pretty much any decent derailleur should 
shift it. I might try a Shimano CX 70 that is designed for a double chain 
ring. 
If there is a shop around that has crates of vintage parts, you might be 
able to find something nice that will work. 

Spence

On Thursday, October 14, 2021 at 9:16:04 AM UTC-4 Doug H. wrote:

> I've dealt with 718Cyclery in Brooklyn from afar and would recommend that 
> shop. I know he has built up Rivendells and likes steel unracer bikes.
> Doug
> Athens, GA
>
> On Thursday, October 14, 2021 at 9:05:51 AM UTC-4 Justin Kennedy 
> (Brooklyn, NY) wrote:
>
>> I'm wondering if anyone could recommend a specific front derailleur for 
>> my 64 Clem. I took it to a local bike shop and they weren't entirely sure 
>> what FD to install/order b/c of the granny gear. I have a Silver 38/24 
>> wide/low double with 9 Speed 12-36t on the rear. I'd prefer something 
>> simple, cheap, and easy, of course. Thanks in advance! 
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Thousand Helmets

[spencer robinson]

if anyone is curious, and wants to try a Thousand helmet in Stealth black, 
size Med, (57-59cm) I have one, I tried it on, put a "Sheldon eagle" 
sticker on it but never rode it. send me a pm and we can arrive at a 
reasonable price.

Spencer

On Monday, December 13, 2021 at 10:43:59 PM UTC-5 divis...@gmail.com wrote:

> I had a similar sync-up with the Giro Pneumo. It fit great; Giro 
> discontinued it; the replacement model (whose name I've forgotten) didn't 
> fit at all. Giro rebooted the Pneumo in a MIPS version several years later, 
> which also didn't fit.
>
> The Giro Bishop fits; I've worn one daily for about four years. I suppose 
> I should start trying on helmets again, to be prepared for the next time I 
> need a replacement.
>
> As long as the helmet's passed the certifications, I suspect all helmets 
> provide equivalent protection. The key thing is whether it fits, which can 
> only be established by trying it on. And whether you wear it properly.
>
> As for Grant's helmet grudges: Grant's *just this guy*, you know? I'm 
> sure we've all got our own fixations; there's no need to accept Grant's 
> fixations as determinative for yourself, if you didn't already embrace them 
> on your own. I feel fully entitled to disregard Grant's preferences when 
> they contradict my own, such as his distaste for high-waisted bike pants. I 
> have a pair of MUSA pants that I practically never wear, because I hate the 
> way they pull down and expose my buttcrack - cold on the kidneys, and an 
> unpleasant view for whoever's behind me. But I am an in-duh-vidual; I don't 
> have to embrace Grant's preferences if I don't wanna.
>
> Peter Adler
> who's been in enough scary crashes and around enough careless/reckless 
> drivers to be an always-helmeted rider, and who has turned around and 
> ridden home three miles to retrieve his helmet after thoughtlessly riding 
> off without one in
> Berkeley, CA/USA
>
>
> On Monday, December 13, 2021 at 9:33:09 AM UTC-8 lconley wrote:
>
>> The Thousand Helmets are too small for me, as usual with most bike 
>> helmets (64cm circumference). When I was working in Everett, WA a few years 
>> (5+?) back, I drove down to Portland to find a bike helmet. I went to 
>> Universal Cycles and tried on twenty helmets or so, and a couple were OK, 
>> but the salesman refused to sell them too me, because he said that they did 
>> not fit correctly. He told me that I needed a Giro Bishop, and called 
>> around to his competitors and found one and sent me over to buy it - it fit 
>> perfectly. Of course, Giro no longer makes the Bishop.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Creaky Creaks?

[spencer robinson]

I was chasing a creak on my Sam last year, it was driving me nuts, the 
creak was on every cycle of the cranks, I pulled the crank arms, checked 
the bottom bracket, greased and reinstalled the crank arms, swapped out the 
pedals, still creaking. Greased the seatpost.
Actually replaced the bottom bracket, creak still there….turned out to be 
the rear axle moving ever so slightly in the drop-out,. I cleaned and 
reinstalled the quick release and the noise was gone. 
On Tuesday, December 21, 2021 at 4:28:18 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:

> As was advised and you may want to double-check, make sure there's grease 
> in the seattube. Of course it may just be a new Brooks breaking in (if you 
> have one), those saddles used to drive me crazy until I adopted the same 
> position as minor rattles in my car: "Yep, that happens."
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, December 21, 2021 at 11:31:29 AM UTC-8 philipr...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Pedals are MKS but already checked and running fine. I have had the 
>> shoelace issue before though!
>>
>> I did the seatpost (which was tight) and the saddle clamp (which wasn't 
>> particularly) so will try & get out for a test ride before my positive 
>> COVID test from this morning kicks in!
>>
>> On Tuesday, December 21, 2021 at 1:19:32 PM UTC-6 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> Now that you mention it, yes, I've had pedals cause this sort of 
>>> elusive cadence-related creaking or, in my case, more of a clicking. 
>>> In this case it was a pair of ancient Dura Ace SPD pedals, and I 
>>> solved the problem by regreasing them (simply unscrewed body from 
>>> bearing core, filled bearing space in body with grease, shoved 
>>> bearing/spindle core back in and tightened down: Robert 
>>> Gascoyne-Cecil, 3rd Marquess of Salisbury's yer uncle! 
>>>
>>> One more tangential but wholly not-unrelated incident: I acquired a 
>>> sudden, rhythmic "click" while pedaling one particular bike, and could 
>>> not find the source. After long fretting, I tripped over the reason: 
>>> the aiglet on the slightly too-long lace of my left SPD shoe -- which 
>>> I had just started wearing in preference to the Velcro shoes I usually 
>>> wore -- was hitting the dt water bottle cage. 
>>>
>>> On Tue, Dec 21, 2021 at 11:48 AM Ryan  wrote: 
>>> > 
>>> > or pedals if they're MKS ...had this happen to me twice 
>>> > 
>>> > On Tuesday, December 21, 2021 at 12:36:01 PM UTC-6 Patrick Moore 
>>> wrote: 
>>> >> 
>>> >> I know, it seems very unlikely, but I've found bars and seatposts to 
>>> cause this sort of creak after long and anguished searches, and much to my 
>>> surprise. 
>>> >> 
>>> >> 
>>> >> On Tue, Dec 21, 2021 at 11:27 AM Philip Barrett  
>>> wrote: 
>>> >>> 
>>> >>> BB was installed by Rivendell and looks to be typical of their high 
>>> quality work. 
>>> >>> 
>>> >>> You know I thought seatpost, then thought...nah...but actually that 
>>> does make sense. Hex head in hand now. 
>>> > 
>>> > -- 
>>> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. 
>>> > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com. 
>>> > To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/b9d9b675-31a8-445d-8f6e-bd59dce9153fn%40googlegroups.com.
>>>  
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
>>> --- 
>>> Patrick Moore 
>>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum 
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Weird handlebar idea

[spencer robinson]

I used those Origin 8 drop bar ends on a couple different bikes and they do 
work to give you a lower aero choice. I never tried to use them with Road 
bike brake levers though. For those bar end drops to work well, the handle 
bar has to have little or no sweep, unless you slide them way inside...
Mostly they are nice on a MTB when you might be doing some road miles as 
part of the route.. 

On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 11:48:51 AM UTC-4, Zack Medow wrote:

> Ok so for me the perfect road handlebar would allow me to run drop bar 
> break levers in the typical way for “endurance” riding, then with back 
> sweep to allow me to sit up and change my back angle. Basically I’m 
> visualizing this as an albastache bar but with the break levers vertical 
> instead of horizontal. Or like a dirt drop, but with all the hand positions 
> existing on the same plane. 
>
> I could see how you’d do this by bending the tubes down in the way you 
> typically would on a drop bar, and then sideways and back for the sit-up 
> position. Has anyone ever seen a bar like this? Is this a very stupid idea? 

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[RBW] Re: Upgrade to Sam Hillborne from a Surly Corss-Check?

[spencer robinson]

I have a Sam and have owned a few Cross Checks.
They are different bikes. The geometry is different, BB height is the big 
difference, I think.
The cross check might be the one bike that has served so many people for 
different uses. 
Affordable, tough, versatile.  
The Sam is a wonderful, well mannered, country bike. I think better geo for 
getting the bars up etc. 

I always felt like I was riding ON a CrossCheck and felt link I was riding 
IN a Sam. 

On Tuesday, August 11, 2020 at 10:49:00 AM UTC-4, Jeffrey Sincich wrote:

> Hi all! I am considering finally upgrading from my Surly Cross-Check to a 
> Sam Hillborne. Has anyone done this, and if so, what are the improvements? 
> Were you happy you did so? I currently ride a 54cm Corss-Check. I mainly 
> commute to work, but some short bike tours are in the future. Thanks in 
> advance!
>
>

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[RBW] VP 001 rebuild kit

[spencer robinson]

My older pair of VP “ThinGripsters brought me home with an annoying click 
the other day. I have determined that it is the drive side pedal as the 
noise is gone when I switch to a fairly new pair of Clem pedals. My 
question to the group is, does anyone know where I can find a rebuild kit? 
I don’t see anything at Rivendell or even Amazon. 
Then I was thinking, maybe just buy a new pair of Clems..might be cheaper..

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[RBW] Re: VP 001 rebuild kit

[spencer robinson]

Thank you Paul, that confirms what I suspected

On Tuesday, August 18, 2020 at 9:23:01 PM UTC-4 Paul Clifton wrote:

> Last time I tried to deal with this, the bike shop told me to pull them 
> apart and figure out what bearing I needed and they'd order it from wheels 
> manufacturing.
>
> I didn't have the tool to take the bearings out of the 001 (a 4 or 5 mm 
> punch if I recall), and the rebuild kit cost as much as a new pair of VP 
> Vice pedals, so now I just have a clicky pedal that I use sometimes for 
> temporary stuff.
>
> That was several years ago. I searched again a couple years ago and 
> couldn't find the kits at all anymore. Kinda turned me off of VP even 
> though I do really like their pedals.
>
> Paul in AR
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, August 18, 2020 at 9:33:08 AM UTC-5, spencer robinson wrote:
>>
>> My older pair of VP “ThinGripsters brought me home with an annoying click 
>> the other day. I have determined that it is the drive side pedal as the 
>> noise is gone when I switch to a fairly new pair of Clem pedals. My 
>> question to the group is, does anyone know where I can find a rebuild kit? 
>> I don’t see anything at Rivendell or even Amazon. 
>> Then I was thinking, maybe just buy a new pair of Clems..might be 
>> cheaper..
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: VP 001 rebuild kit

[spencer robinson]

OH!!! hey, Thanks Matt. I did not see them on the website, I will email and 
order a kit.

On Wednesday, August 19, 2020 at 10:10:25 AM UTC-4 Matt C. wrote:

> I just called and ordered a rebuild kit for my VP-001's from Riv last 
> week. They had 4 in stock when I called. 
>
> I had the same click. Attempted to take them apart and stripped out the 
> nut. Right side is reverse threaded. I learned the hard way. Look into it 
> more than i did. 
>
> Matt Cook in CT
>
> On Tuesday, August 18, 2020 at 10:33:08 AM UTC-4 spencer robinson wrote:
>
>> My older pair of VP “ThinGripsters brought me home with an annoying click 
>> the other day. I have determined that it is the drive side pedal as the 
>> noise is gone when I switch to a fairly new pair of Clem pedals. My 
>> question to the group is, does anyone know where I can find a rebuild kit? 
>> I don’t see anything at Rivendell or even Amazon. 
>> Then I was thinking, maybe just buy a new pair of Clems..might be 
>> cheaper..
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Crankset & BB Question

[spencer robinson]

Sage advice Joe Bernard

On Tuesday, August 25, 2020 at 9:02:54 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:

> You might want to let a bike shop dig into this unless you're committed to 
> buying two types of BB tools and learning all about it. I'm big on the 
> buying and learning, but it's not a small project for a first-timer and 
> you're not even sure where the problem is yet. Could be a headache!
>
> Joe "ok now I broke something else, this is getting expensive" Bernard 
>
> On Tuesday, August 25, 2020 at 7:42:47 AM UTC-7 Justin Kennedy (Brooklyn, 
> NY) wrote:
>
>> I bought a mountain bike on Craigslist and have been using it with an 
>> Xtracycle Free Radical conversion for a few months as a kid hauler and 
>> cargo bike. The crankset and bottom bracket it came with are part of the 
>> Shimano Hollowtech group: BB is Shimano SM-BB51 
>> 
>>  and 
>> the crank is a Shimano XT two-piece compression thing like this 
>> 
>>  with 
>> a built in spindle. I've been having some issues with the crank creaking 
>> and popping when I ride and would like to replace it with something simpler 
>> and more classic looking, like a Riv Clipper wide/low 
>> 
>> . 
>>
>> Question is, do I have to replace the entire bottom bracket or can I use 
>> the SM-BB51 and install a new spindle? The current crankset has a spindle 
>> built in/attached.  Would this work? 
>> 
>>  
>> I'm kinda clueless when it comes to this Hollowtech stuff and not sure 
>> what's compatible/interchangeable. Thanks in advance. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 55 Roadeo

[spencer robinson]

Hi Dave, 
In the photos, how tall is the rider that the bike is currently set up for?
On Thursday, August 20, 2020 at 2:46:50 PM UTC-4 dp3 wrote:

>
> Up for sale is a MUSA 55 Roadeo. I seem to be riding this bike less and 
> less after a recent move and a more trail riding. I am the second owner (I 
> think). I bought it from another group member a few years ago. This bike 
> rides great.
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/YsSySCYcKgeqWx1t7
>
> I didn't clean it up :). I think the frame is in pretty good shape, but 
> certainly a few nicks and scratches. 
>
> I would prefer to sell complete.  
>
> ultegra/velocity a23 wheels w jack brown greens
> mix sram rival/apex drivetrain (compact crank)
> nitto noodle bars
> velo orange grand cru brakes
> velo orange stem
> thomson setback seatpost
> cane creek 100 headset
>
> Asking $2000 Shipped.
>
> Thanks,
> Dave
>

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[RBW] Re: For Sale: Heron Road 56.5cm $950

[spencer robinson]

Sent you an email Dave, at least I think I did, heckofa time trying to send 
a pm here. 


On Tuesday, September 1, 2020 at 3:17:51 PM UTC-4 Matt P. wrote:

> What a beautiful bike!  Seems to be in excellent condition too, you have 
> maintained it very well. I wish it was on the West Coast, I'd be tempted to 
> snap it up.  But I understand not wanting to deal with shipping these days. 
>  In another posting, I am trying to sell my Brompton folding bike, and I 
> feel the same way, I'd rather not deal with shipping.
>

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[RBW] Re: VP 001 rebuild kit

[spencer robinson]

I did email Rivendell as I did not see the VP 001 rebuild kits listed but 
the other Spencer looked for me and found a few kits in stock. The rebuild 
is pretty straightforward and it just involved finding the right socket and 
pick to get the bushings out. The bearings are a sealed design. Easy to do 
and saved a set of pedals. I think the cost to rebuild them was worthwhile.

On Wednesday, August 19, 2020 at 11:00:52 AM UTC-4 Garth wrote:

>
>I have no idea if this helps or not, I take any pedal I buy apart upon 
> install and liberally apply grease in the axle. Enough that it oozes out 
> when it's back together. Knock on a Gorillas tree, everything has worked 
> perfectly. 
>
>   Some brands have very little grease from the factory. 
>
>   Before assuming the bearings are gone, if you hear noises just take it 
> apart and grease it very well. Try it out !  Grease is a great thing !
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Can a blowout knock a wheel out of true?

[spencer robinson]

Yes, a tire that blows off a rim can put the rim out of true

On Tuesday, September 8, 2020 at 11:31:47 PM UTC-4 Matthew Williams wrote:

> On Sep 8, 2020, at 8:10 PM, Eric Norris wrote: 
>>
>> Matthew: 
>>
>> When you say the “rim was bent,” do you mean that 
>>
>> 1) the wheel is out of true, and the entire rim is moving to one side and 
>> hitting the brake pad, or 
>>
>> 2) the rim is straight, but one side is bent out? 
>>
>
> Whoops, poor choice of wording on my part. Yes, the wheel was out of true, 
> meandering in the fork and contacting the brake pad. The rim wasn't "bent" 
> like a paper clip or a bumper; it was mildly warped in one spot--presumably 
> where the tube pushed the tire bead out of the seat and then failed. 
>
> My local shop re-trued the wheel but I'm surprised a blowout could affect 
> a wheel to that degree. I guess I'm just used to my indestructible 
> Sting-Ray! 
>

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[RBW] Re: Fixed gear dropouts and fenders

[spencer robinson]

On my old 1x1, I used to just make sure I had 4mm allen key on the bike. It 
seems easiest to remove the bolts holding the fender stays from the boss at 
the drop outs, then the fender would flex just enough to pull the wheel 
back and clear. I was using planet bike plastic full length mudguards.

On Thursday, September 10, 2020 at 7:04:59 PM UTC-4, Erik Wright wrote:
>
> Hey all,
>
> Speaking to the Simple One / Quickbeam owners out there (or anyone else 
> with this experience)- is there a trick to rear wheel removal with 
> rear-facing horizontal dropouts when you have fenders mounted? I recently 
> set up a Mercier Kilo WT as my city bike, which is basically a track bike 
> with clearance for big tires and fenders. I'm running 700x35 tires with SKS 
> P50 (or 45?) fenders.
>
> Once I got my fenders mounted, I realized I can't easily get the rear 
> wheel out without deflating the tire. I know VO makes the "spring thing" 
> for addressing fender alignment with forward-facing horizontal dropouts, 
> but is there any trick to getting a good fender line with rear-facing 
> dropouts while also being able to easily remove the wheel? Almost like the 
> rear equivalent of a spring thing...
>
> Erik, Philly
>

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[RBW] Re: Who Wants to Play "Name that Drivetrain Noise?"

[spencer robinson]

Wow!  That was really nice of you and Bill to take the time to pass all 
that on. I am adding that to my bike knowledge section of my brain!
I know a guy that had one of those Bitex hubs and it was making a noise 
that bothered him, he wound up replacing the hub with a White 
Industries...I gotta ask him if he still has the old hub, maybe I can get 
it fixed up. 

On Tuesday, September 22, 2020 at 9:28:58 AM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Good work.  It sounds like you'll get it sorted.  I'm glad I could point 
> you to the right area
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
> On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 11:21:53 PM UTC-7 Litho wrote:
>
>> Thank you, Bill.  You got me to open the freehub again and remove all of 
>> the pawls and springs.  I tried to put it back with 3 pawls, but the 
>> retaining ring wouldn't hold just three of them in place very well.  They 
>> were flopping all over the place and had so much play that the return 
>> springs did nothing.  Which got me to thinking about the strength of the 
>> return springs under the pawls.  The "spring" of the pawls was really weak 
>> when I pushed down on them, even with all six in.   They barely popped back 
>> up.  To the point that the hub made almost no ratcheting noise when 
>> coasting.  Very quiet except for the occasional pinging.   I actually 
>> remarked to my wife how strangely quiet the hub was, much quieter than the 
>> XT hubs on my Atlantis and far quieter than any other hubs I've had.  I 
>> figured it was a design feature.  
>>
>> Long story short, I pulled on the springs a bit to elongate them just 
>> slightly and then put the hub back together.  It's buzzing nicely now, the 
>> click of the pawls ratcheting is not perfectly simultaneous but much closer 
>> (you were spot on about that!), AND I can't make it ping anymore.  The 
>> pawls have more force pushing them against the ratchet in the hub now.  I 
>> don't know why the springs wouldn't have been like that out of the box.  
>>
>> I'll have to test it some more tomorrow to see if that really took care 
>> of it, but it seems to have made it better for the moment. 
>>
>> Thanks again for the detailed analysis.  Very helpful!   
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 9:27:45 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> OK, you answers are all as I expected.  I don't like the idea of six 
>>> pawls.  It's what we call an overdetermined system.  The idea with six 
>>> pawls is that each carry 1/6th of the load, but in order for that to 
>>> happen, the machining has to be absolutely positively perfect.  The 
>>> hardness of pawls themselves is extremely hard.  The hardness of the 
>>> splined drive shell is extremely hard.  All six have to hit their groove 
>>> perfectly.  Imagine building a wooden table with six legs out of hard oak 
>>> in your garage.  It would be really hard to build that table with such 
>>> precision that all six legs carry 1/6th of the weight of the table.  It 
>>> would be hard to even get all 6 legs to reach the ground.  
>>>
>>> I suspect the requirement for absolute perfection is not attainable 
>>> every single time with hubs with that design.  You might get lucky and have 
>>> all six perfect, and you may be unlucky.  To convince yourself that you are 
>>> just a little unlucky, turn the freehub body backwards as slowly as you 
>>> can.  If it was manufactured perfectly, you will hear one CLICK, but it's 
>>> really all six clicks happening simultaneously.  See if you move slowly 
>>> enough to separate the clicks.  I suspect you'll find it easy to identify 
>>> that there is one early, or one late.  
>>>
>>> To prove this is the cause, the test I recommend is to do exactly what 
>>> you'd do with your six-legged table: change it to a three-legged table.  A 
>>> three-legged table self-levels because it can.  Remove three of the six 
>>> pawls and ride your bike.   I bet a dollar the PING is gone.  
>>>
>>> If that works as I expect, then you have something to discuss with your 
>>> builder.  I personally think that six pawl design is dumb and three pawls 
>>> is ample.  I think "upgrading" from 6 to 3 is an improvement.  I'd just use 
>>> the wheel with three pawls and have a three spare pawls on hand.  You may 
>>> decide it's a manufacturing defect and demand a new wheel under some kind 
>>> of warranty.  I won't instruct you how to resolve the issue. 
>>>
>>> best of luck
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA 
>>>
>>> On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 8:34:15 PM UTC-7 Litho wrote:
>>>

 [image: Hub_01.jpg][image: Hub_02.jpg]

>>>

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[RBW] Re: Running a Mark's rack/basket....AND a handlebar bag?!?!?!

[spencer robinson]

I have a rack, basket and handlebar bag on my Sam. I do not have a strap on 
my basket, I do check all the mounting nuts and bolts when I clean and 
lube. I always have an Irish or full spectrum strap in the stuff I carry, 
then if I find a cool thing or 2 at a yard sale or carry home a 12 pack, I 
run the strap over the bag, from the stem, over the bars and to the front 
of the rack. Many times the heaviest thing I have in the basket is the 
coffee kit and a sweater.

On Sunday, November 8, 2020 at 3:22:24 PM UTC-5 bjmi...@gmail.com wrote:

> Actually...even better, you mentioned the attachment doesn't need to do 
> anything until it's needed...would there be any issue using the irish strap 
> to handlebars connection but keeping it loose enough that it just goes 
> behind the bag? That might be my best move. 
>
> On Sunday, November 8, 2020 at 2:20:33 PM UTC-6 Ben Mihovk wrote:
>
>> Holy smokes I didn't even think about steering! I've just been tinkering 
>> in the basement and haven't hopped on the bike to try any of these 
>> configurations.
>>
>> So just to be clear, you think if I do something loosely connecting head 
>> tube to tombstone, it'd work okay as a failsafe? 
>>
>> I appreciate it!
>> Ben
>>
>> On Sunday, November 8, 2020 at 1:59:08 PM UTC-6 Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> No, not ok. that's going to have ill, very ill, or maybe very very very 
>>> ill affects on your steering when it's even remotely snug (it could tighten 
>>> up at will). You're looking for a failsafe, not something to actually do 
>>> anything until it's needed. You might try a fairly loose loop of paracord 
>>> or heavy shoelace, just long enough to not catch or bind, but not too long 
>>> or it'll get into your brakes and wheel. Tying off to the handlebar is 
>>> straightforward because it moves with the rack, headtubes don't so keep it 
>>> loose[ish]. And to keep it up and out of the moving bits, consider tying 
>>> off to the horizontal top bar of your basket directly in front of the 
>>> tombstone, that way it won't want to get fussy with your headset.
>>> Have fun!
>>> -Kai
>>>
>>> On Sunday, November 8, 2020 at 11:54:22 AM UTC-5 bjmi...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Here's a photo of what I'm thinking about doing with the strap and head 
 tube...
 [image: irish.jpg]
 The strap is looped through each side of the tombstone twice...once 
 through and around the head tube on the opposite side, and then once 
 though 
 the inside of the tombstone and back on the same side of the head tube (if 
 that makes sense).

 It's snug...but my two concerns are...
 1. it won't stop the rack/basket from crashing into the front wheel if 
 the rack fails (I'm not a physics person...but I'm guessing there's more 
 holding power vertically than horizontally)
 2. The strap is going to dull up or rub off the paint on the head tube.

 HOWEVER...as I was typing this, I found this...

 https://13507435628737481763.googlegroups.com/attach/26c66c05ba4e4/IMG_1683.JPG?part=0.2&view=1&vt=ANaJVrEq-9QnruTkMcmxuNN9WRRDupm4Sh5lxv-I6NA_WVq9zMoW7YG8PJm6dkg0zmWGvc0jPMXrF4yVRs-NP2B3aA4xDxxQ3P78klLrAgHSI79Llf-AOr8

 It looks like lashing the tombstone to the head tube has been an option 
 for at least Soma and their "Manny Strap". I'm guessing I'm okay with it 
 the way I have it.

 Right? 
 On Saturday, November 7, 2020 at 10:19:16 AM UTC-6 Ben Mihovk wrote:

> Hey all!
> I recently set up my Atlantis with a Mark's rack and medium Walk 
> zip-tied to it. I double strutted the rack and have the Irish strap 
> connecting the tombstone to the bars (Chocos). 
>
> I have an x-small saddle sack that I love and was offered a matching 
> one at a great price. I love the way the x-small sack looks/fits on my 
> handlebars, but I'm having some serious issues figuring out how to strap 
> the tombstone for support while having a handlebar bag.
>
> One solution I might have is to strap the tombstone to the headtube 
> horizontally. I did it a minute ago and looped the Irish strap a bunch of 
> times and tightened it up. Is this good enough for supporting the rack if 
> the tange fails? Will the strap on the frame rub off the paint or 
> top/clear 
> coat? 
>
> Any ideas on how to have both a Mark's rack and x-small handlebar bag 
> are welcome. 
>
> For what it's worth...I don't plan on ever exceeding the 4 pound 
> recommendation on the rack. I've used it to carry my 3 pound laptop and 
> charger (with a Captain Hook), to grab a 3 pound bag of groceries, 
> etc...I 
> may push it to a six pack of beer, but I have a rear rack and panniers if 
> I 
> need to carry anything heavy. 
>
> Thanks!
> Ben
>


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[RBW] Re: How to make your own saddle bag quick release for $1.00. This also works for sprung saddles.

[spencer robinson]

Hi Roberta,
Wow, this is excellent, I recently installed a brooks flyer on one of my 
klunkers and discovered what a PAIN it is to get the saddle bag in the 
saddle loops...esp with poor eyesight. I am off the woods to find just the 
right stick! Thanks for posting it up!

On Tuesday, November 19, 2019 at 8:49:48 PM UTC-5, Roberta wrote:
>
> RBW content--this is on my beloved Joe Appaloosa and I'll be making 
> another one for my A. Homer Hilsen.  I love the Nitto one on the Riv site, 
> but it cannot be used with sprung saddles.
>
> The idea is to have the dowel long enough so the straps won’t work their 
> way off by themselves, but short enough so you can slide the straps off 
> fairly easily.   My dowel is 7 3/8” long and that’s plenty long.
>
> You'll need:
>
> One 7 - 7 ½” long dowel.  I used a ¾” wide dowel, but I suspect a ½” 
> would work just as well.
>
> Two zip ties
>
>  
>
> Zip tie the dowel to the INSIDE side of each saddle bag loop--for the left 
> loop, zip tie to the right; for the right loop, zip tie to the left.   Make 
> it fairly snug, but no need to over tighten.  You need to make sure the 
> dowel won’t slide out on its own.
>
>
> Slide on the pre-buckled bag straps, first one side, and then the other. 
>   Your straps should be sitting just below the saddle loops, in the same 
> position as if you had threaded them thru the loops.   Voila!
>
>
> To remove the bag, just slide the strap from one side first, then the 
> other side.  It helps if there’s a little movement in the dowel.
>
>
> To make the dowel “disappear,” paint it the color of your bag or saddle.  Or, 
> have fun with markers and “art” it up!
>

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[RBW] Re: Did anyone notice the Rivendell reference in The Irishman?

[spencer robinson]

Yeah, I caught that... had all the usual suspects in itwho is the blond 
guy, he was in Breaking Bad and something else..
 

On Friday, November 29, 2019 at 8:12:35 PM UTC-5, Trenker wrote:
>
> Joe Pesci, as Russell Bufalino:
>
>  
>
> "There’s a pork store up in Northern California. Right around Walnut 
> Creek. You’re from up there ain’t you?
>
> Yeah. And you might even know the guy that runs it.
>
> Actually I’m lookin' for a little favor. For him...not for me. But if you 
> can get him a ticket, like to Australia...you know what I mean. You wanna 
> help him get down there?"
>
>  
>
> (I won't give away any spoilers, but "a ticket to Australia" does not 
> refer to an airline ticket in this context. Could "pork store" be a kind of 
> mob slang for "a shop that sells non-racing bicycles?")
>
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: Did anyone notice the Rivendell reference in The Irishman?

[spencer robinson]

It gets even thicker..Jesse Plemons played a Butcher in one season of 
Fargo..

On Sunday, December 1, 2019 at 5:11:41 PM UTC-5, Dean Henderson wrote:
>
> Blond guy is Jesse Plemons. Played Floyd Landis in "The Program" about 
> Armstrong.
>
> On Friday, November 29, 2019 at 8:12:35 PM UTC-5, Trenker wrote:
>>
>> Joe Pesci, as Russell Bufalino:
>>
>>  
>>
>> "There’s a pork store up in Northern California. Right around Walnut 
>> Creek. You’re from up there ain’t you?
>>
>> Yeah. And you might even know the guy that runs it.
>>
>> Actually I’m lookin' for a little favor. For him...not for me. But if you 
>> can get him a ticket, like to Australia...you know what I mean. You wanna 
>> help him get down there?"
>>
>>  
>>
>> (I won't give away any spoilers, but "a ticket to Australia" does not 
>> refer to an airline ticket in this context. Could "pork store" be a kind of 
>> mob slang for "a shop that sells non-racing bicycles?")
>>
>>  
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Advice Needed: Best Remedy for a Slipping Hunqapillar Seatpost

[spencer robinson]

One really nice feature that I admire on Rivendell frames is that the 
"pinch" bolt for the Seat post is just a normal bolt and nut.  I think I 
would ensure that the cable hanger is not limiting how tightly the pinch 
bolt is influencing the seat post.
If the hanger is in conflict, I would take my dremil to the hanger and fix 
that. Then a bit of grease on the post and grease on the pinch bolt threads 
and tighten that bolt, really tight, worse case is you strip the bolt, you 
can get a new one out of the parts bin or the hardware store.

On Tuesday, February 18, 2020 at 7:28:17 PM UTC-5, John Phillips wrote:

>Okay, I admit, I can be the world's worst procrastinator, but after 
> seven years, I'm getting tired of raising my seatpost after every ride. The 
> slot cut into seat tube on my 2013 Hunqapillar doesn't have the space 
> needed to accomodate the long-style Nitto brake cable hanger my Hunq came 
> with, so I am done with procrastinating and am looking for the best 
> possible solution.
>
> Should I grind away a bit of the seat tube so the the brake cable hanger 
> no longer interferes with the seat post binder bolt?
>
> Switch to a different cable hanger like a Paul Component Funky Monkey?
>
> If anyone has a solution they would like to recommend, I would be very 
> grateful. I certainly don't want to make matters worse.
>
> Thanks!
>
> John
>

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[RBW] Re: RBW 25 -Atlantic side of things

[spencer robinson]

Yes, it is a really nice Patch, hit Ben Obrien up quick so as to secure one!
I got my order in already.

On Monday, July 15, 2019 at 9:45:22 AM UTC-4, Wally Estrella wrote:

> Here's the RBW 25 Northeast patch that Ben has been working on w/ Walter 
> from Fallcreek Outfitters.  Ben asked me to post it up here.
>
>
> [image: RBW 25 northeast.gif]
>
> On Thursday, May 9, 2019 at 9:31:20 PM UTC-4, Ben Obrien wrote:
>>
>> we have a patch design in the works for the gathering too! 
>>
>> On Friday, May 3, 2019 at 5:43:56 PM UTC-4, DeeterDeeter wrote:
>>>
>>> Pic of Lil' Smokey dippin' a toe in at Lake Awosting a few years ago. 
>>>
>>> Looking forward to it! Thanks Ben and everybody else for organizing!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thursday, January 3, 2019 at 6:11:32 AM UTC-8, Wally Estrella wrote:

 Hey Folks:  

  

 Opening a new post on the RBW 25 'tis a gathering.  I'd love to attend 
 the west coast 'moot, but it's too far for this prancing pony.  How about 
 a 
 northeast/east coast 'moot-up?

  

 I posted it on Instagram as well @wickedwoolly.  I think there are some 
 folks on here and over there, but not all are in both spots, thus this 
 post 
 to reach out to get all Hobbits notified.

  

 Hit me up offline w/ your name/email/location, subject the email 
 ‘Rivmoot 25’.  The initial thinking is a spring/summer ‘moot somewhere in 
 Massland.  May also create a poll to gather a general consensus on 
 date/location.   Make it a day event? Make it an S24O with some rides? 
 Tear 
 Isengard down? What to do? What to do?

  

 In other east coast related news.  Punxsutawney Philbo Paggins has 
 emerged from his hole in the ground...it'll be an early spring with 
 many more years of riding on leather and RBW.


 CHEERS!

 Wally, further east of the Iron Hills, in Maine

>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: PSA: $700 Romulus (57cm) build in Hudson Valley.,NY

[spencer robinson]

Hi All,
The bike that is listed on Hudson Valley CL is mine, you can ask me any 
questions you might have.
The bike is in fact a 57cm.
I am 5’10” tall and the bike pictured is setup for me, it fits beautiful.  I 
have done all day rides on it and it has been my choice for high mileage 
excursions. 
In a pinch for a second bike, in the 11th hour, I rode this bike in the Farmers 
Daughter Gravel Grinder, with the single track, mud and hills 2 seasons ago, I 
ran it with Clement 700x40 gravel tires, on Velocity A23 rims, with tubes. The 
fat tires had to be depressurized to pass by the calipers but they did fit. The 
bike was designed to take as much as 700x38 according the the brochures. 700x40 
were very close, but only on the calipers, otherwise, it seemed fine.
The bike Is being sold with a very nice wheelset, the old style Open Pro rims 
with nice fresh gravel kings, the smooth ones in 700x32.
The shifters are vintage RSX, as I am sure that you guys know, RSX was a 7 
speed shifter, however they share DNA with the 105 shifters. I sent these 
shifters down to Jim in Duncan SC and along with completely rebuilding them, he 
replaced the “guts” on the right hand with 8 speed 105. So now instead of a 
spacer on the free hub, it runs 8 speed on the rearpretty cool trick, 
search Shimano shifter repair on facebook, you can find Jim on eBay as well. 
Sheldon used to use him back time. 



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Re: [RBW] Re: PSA: $700 Romulus (57cm) build in Hudson Valley.,NY

[spencer robinson]

Hi Mark, measuring from the center of the crank to the approximate top of the 
saddle, measuring up the seat tube is about 79cm.
Stand over is around 81. Hard to get exact, trying to balance the bike and 
holding the tape measure, while not letting my reading glasses slide down my 
nose.
I measure the seat tube, center of crank to top of top tube to be 57 cm and the 
top tube center to center is over 56, maybe 56.5.
Best to see in person, if your interested, I am not that far north of Beacon, 
we could meet at the walkway over the Hudson, you can take her for a spin.

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Re: [RBW] Re: PSA: $700 Romulus (57cm) build in Hudson Valley.,NY

[spencer robinson]

The Romulus has Been sold

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[RBW] Re: RBW 25 -Atlantic side of things

[spencer robinson]

Thats the basic loop around the park...it is beautiful, the views are 
breathtaking, you will need lots of time for picture taking, film camera 
discussions, and general lollygagging / coffee making etc. There are more miles 
if your so inclined, heck you can bomb the public roads and go to New Platz and 
up the trail to Kingston, stop in and see Bryan at Utility Bicycle works, just 
whatever, the Hudson Valley is probably one of the most scenic and historic 
places in the USA. 

The Route is stone/gravel carriage trails, no cars and this time of year, not 
so crowded. The route rolls up and down, no killer hills except the first path 
up from the main road and like they say...I never go for a walk without my 
bike.  I have done the loop on a single speed and a Raleigh sports 3 so its ok. 
700x 23c tires might make the ride a little harsh but I don’t think that is a 
concern with Riv folks. 

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[RBW] Re: Anyone used Gravelking 650b x 38 mm tubeless

[spencer robinson]

I am running 700x38 gravel Kings on Velocity A-23 rims and the combination 
works very well. I could not get them to “jump on” the rims till I ran them 
with tubes for a few days, that took the folds out of the casing...then, 
pulled the tubes out, a quick blast with the air compressor and they seated 
beautifully, nice and straight, held air over night. I added sealant and 
they hold air great, I may add a little sit once a month. 

On Friday, November 8, 2019 at 8:20:48 PM UTC-5, ttoshi wrote:
>
> I'm thinking of using Gravelking 650b x 38mm tubeless with A23 rims.  Has 
> anyone used these Gravelkings?  I've never used tubeless before, so I'm 
> trying to solicit experience with the 38s. Most of the tubeless seem to use 
> fatter tires, presumably for lower pressure.  What pressure would you run 
> the 38s?
>
> Thanks,
> Toshi in Oakland
>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB Shimano 9 speed STI shifters

[spencer robinson]

I can vouch for the newer Sora shifters, they are really nice, same feel as 
the fancy ones. I have been using a Sora 9speed set on my gravel/mud bike 
for 3 seasons, I am happy with them. Maybe more so than an older fancier 
pair that have already been to the rodeo. 

On Monday, March 4, 2019 at 12:14:36 AM UTC-5, Kieran J wrote:
>
> I can't vouch for them personally but I have read that the Sora R3000 9spd 
> shifters are pretty good considering their price point. Not fancy looking 
> but they do apparently perform well.
>
> KJ
>
>
>
> On Friday, February 22, 2019 at 5:08:27 PM UTC-8, dylan alverson wrote:
>>
>> Looking to try out integrated shifting on my Saluki. Anyone out there 
>> have a pair in good shape Ultegra preferably but not terribly picky. 
>>  Purchase or trade. 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: recommendation for a flared drop bar with 25.4 clamp size

[spencer robinson]

I have a set of Salsa Woodchippers here with the 25.4 clamp size, short, 
shallow, and flared out.
They might am option to consider.

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[RBW] Re: recommendation for a flared drop bar with 25.4 clamp size

[spencer robinson]

I have a black pair, I think you are right, the current version is 31.8

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[RBW] Re: FS: 55cm Sam Hillborne with lots of nice bits

[spencer robinson]

I have seen this bike in the wild...it is a really nice machine. 

On Thursday, April 11, 2019 at 6:30:54 PM UTC-4, James / Analog Cycles 
wrote:
>
> I'm selling my Sam Hillborne to raise money for Analog's new bike brand.  
> Tooling and such is pricey, so we're trying to raise money however we can.  
> Sometimes that means letting go of great bikes.  
>
> 55cm.  Orange.  Frame about 2 years old, but was just built up last 
> spring.  
>
>- Paul Centerpulls, polished
>- Moon units
>- Jagwire pro cables, brass ferrules
>- White Industries 44/24 Eno cranks
>- Connex Chain
>- 11-40 rear cassette 9 speed
>- Clutch SRAM rear mech 10 speed, friction shifts and index shifts 
>fine with 9 speed Shimano Bar cons
>- Nitto Super Flare bars, heat treated.  
>- Prototype Spank Tape that I helped develop, wrapped over fizik gel
>- SRAM S500 levers
>- Analog stem, 30mm, 31.8 diameter
>- Stock bottom bracket and headset and seatpost
>- Brooks Professional Saddle, with the big rivets
>- upgraded brake pad holders
>- Spank Oozy pedals
>- Tubeless ready Aileron rims, with analog tubeless tape and WTB Alloy 
>valves, orange seal endurance sealant.  Panaracer GK tires, 38mm
>- Sapim Force spokes
>- White Industries Mi5 rear hub, 11 speed, fresh bearings
>- Schmidt widebody hub up front
>- Edelux II headlight
>- Nitto front rack can stay or go.  
>- SKS fenders
>- B+M secula tail light, wired
>
> Caveats:  frame is in near perfect shape.  Other bits have miles.  Cranks 
> are older, but look nice.  Nothing here is in mint.  The bike has been 
> ridden.  I don't polish it.  I lube it, clean the brake track, and keep 
> fresh drivetrain bits on it.  The drivetrain has minimal wear.   I 
> primarily ride my mountain bike, this bike is ridden once a week in decent 
> weather on rides of less than 40 miles.  So it was ridden from the spring 
> till late october, once a week.  In that time, it got a new cassette, new 
> chain, new rear derailleur, new bar tape twice, new cables and housing, new 
> rims and spokes (late summer), new tires (late summer).  
>
> Rear rim has two dings you can't feel when you ride.  There are the usual 
> scratches and whatever.  You can see condition from the pics, but feel free 
> to ask questions.  If you called the shop tomorrow and asked for the same 
> build, it would run over 6k.  We need money for 4 prototype frames, so you 
> can get it for the 3600.  
>
> 120 bucks for shipping in the lower 48.  Professionally boxed by us here 
> at Analog.  Insured.  
>
> [image: fullsizeoutput_10e1.jpeg]
>
> [image: fullsizeoutput_102c.jpeg]
>
> [image: fullsizeoutput_1032.jpeg]
>
> [image: LRG_DSC00740.JPG]
>
> [image: fullsizeoutput_10e8.jpeg]
>
>
> Way more pics here 
> .  
>
>
>
>
>   
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Alternatives to the RH Oracle Ridge [Nutmeg Nor'Easter 2024]

[Spencer Robinson]

Hope to see you all there, I haven’t decided what I’m gonna run, I have 
done the NorEaster on a few different bikes, there is no perfect bike or 
tire for this stuff, your either gonna go down the paved parts like a farm 
tractor or cringe on the ruff stuff. Just for something different, I may 
stick to the paved and smooth dirt roads this year. Maybe Sam on 38s or 
even the Heron on 33s…they are both light enough to hike with if 
needed…unless I see the routes when posted and go with a more robust 
bike/tire combo.
I also will have a table, come over and say hello…I will have candy and 
maybe a little whisky?
Spencer 

On Monday, October 21, 2024 at 1:46:04 PM UTC-4 Davey Two Shoes wrote:

> I was fine on my Sam last year on Ultra Dynamico Cavas I think they were 
> 42s. I did the medium chunky 35 mile ride. This year I'm planning to do the 
> full chonk ride. 
> This being said, my crank and bottom bracket just broke. If I cant get it 
> fixed in time I'll be on my Sam again, which is anything but a terrible 
> situation!
>
> On Monday, October 14, 2024 at 3:50:55 PM UTC-4 fmri...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> This year is my first year and plan on doing the opposite - riding my Sam 
>> which is a new build instead of my tanglefoot. Any reason why you’re 
>> switching this year? Is it more of a mtb ride?
>>
>> .. Franco Rinaldi ..
>> (c) 646 403 0661 <(646)%20403-0661>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Oct 14, 2024 at 2:17 PM Davey Two Shoes  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I'll be there, rode my Sam last year but this year I plan to use my 
>>> Tanglefoot. 
>>>
>>> On Saturday, October 12, 2024 at 11:24:11 AM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
 Re-heading this message:

 Thanks, Max; the TBs are now on my “Alternatives to the OR” list.

 Next question, to all: What about the Soma Cazadero, in the 622X50 mm 
 size? This gets good reviews, including a “4 thumbs up” by CyclingAbout, 
 tho’ I recall Jan panned it several years ago when — I think — it was made 
 only in the 42 mm size.

 What to RBW-listers who have used the Cazadero think about it’s 
 directional stability on deep, loose surfaces (gravel, sand) and its 
 rolling resistance and, especially, how it corners, on pavement?



 On Fri, Oct 11, 2024 at 6:59 AM maxcr  wrote:

> I think thunderburts strike the perfect balance between on/off road - 
> I run them tubeless without issues at all (no seeping or anything like 
> that 
> at all)
>
> For me (I go slow) they corner very well on pavement and I've taken 
> them through pretty rough New England trails with roots, rocks, etc and 
> they've held up very well with no punctures. 
>
> My new Rosco Bubbe build will have endurance knobbie RH but I haven't 
> tried them yet, so can't compare them.
>
> Max
>
> On Thursday, October 10, 2024 at 4:46:34 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Please forgive the tangent, but can you say how well the Thunderburts 
>> roll compared to other similar tires, in particular — a reach, here — to 
>> the RH Oracle Ridge? 
>>
>> Also:
>>
>> Do they corner well on pavement?
>>
>> Do they hold sealant well — sidewall or bead seep?
>>
>> How well or badly do they resist punctures?
>>
> -- 
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Alternatives to the RH Oracle Ridge [Nutmeg Nor'Easter 2024]

[Spencer Robinson]

I am going to do this… Rolling out at 9am
If anyone wants to start early and go slow…
https://ridewithgps.com/routes/48829096
 50 miles with a ferry boat ride, mostly country road




On Thu, Oct 24, 2024 at 5:12 PM maxcr  wrote:

> Routes are posted!
> https://ronsbikesblog.com/2024/10/24/nutmeg-noreaster-2024-final-info/
> Max
>
> On Monday, October 21, 2024 at 9:42:21 PM UTC-4 gogou...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hope to see you all there, I haven’t decided what I’m gonna run, I have
>> done the NorEaster on a few different bikes, there is no perfect bike or
>> tire for this stuff, your either gonna go down the paved parts like a farm
>> tractor or cringe on the ruff stuff. Just for something different, I may
>> stick to the paved and smooth dirt roads this year. Maybe Sam on 38s or
>> even the Heron on 33s…they are both light enough to hike with if
>> needed…unless I see the routes when posted and go with a more robust
>> bike/tire combo.
>> I also will have a table, come over and say hello…I will have candy and
>> maybe a little whisky?
>> Spencer
>>
>> On Monday, October 21, 2024 at 1:46:04 PM UTC-4 Davey Two Shoes wrote:
>>
>>> I was fine on my Sam last year on Ultra Dynamico Cavas I think they were
>>> 42s. I did the medium chunky 35 mile ride. This year I'm planning to do the
>>> full chonk ride.
>>> This being said, my crank and bottom bracket just broke. If I cant get
>>> it fixed in time I'll be on my Sam again, which is anything but a terrible
>>> situation!
>>>
>>> On Monday, October 14, 2024 at 3:50:55 PM UTC-4 fmri...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 This year is my first year and plan on doing the opposite - riding my
 Sam which is a new build instead of my tanglefoot. Any reason why you’re
 switching this year? Is it more of a mtb ride?

 .. Franco Rinaldi ..
 (c) 646 403 0661 <(646)%20403-0661>




 On Mon, Oct 14, 2024 at 2:17 PM Davey Two Shoes 
 wrote:

> I'll be there, rode my Sam last year but this year I plan to use my
> Tanglefoot.
>
> On Saturday, October 12, 2024 at 11:24:11 AM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Re-heading this message:
>>
>> Thanks, Max; the TBs are now on my “Alternatives to the OR” list.
>>
>> Next question, to all: What about the Soma Cazadero, in the 622X50 mm
>> size? This gets good reviews, including a “4 thumbs up” by CyclingAbout,
>> tho’ I recall Jan panned it several years ago when — I think — it was 
>> made
>> only in the 42 mm size.
>>
>> What to RBW-listers who have used the Cazadero think about it’s
>> directional stability on deep, loose surfaces (gravel, sand) and its
>> rolling resistance and, especially, how it corners, on pavement?
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Oct 11, 2024 at 6:59 AM maxcr  wrote:
>>
>>> I think thunderburts strike the perfect balance between on/off road
>>> - I run them tubeless without issues at all (no seeping or anything like
>>> that at all)
>>>
>>> For me (I go slow) they corner very well on pavement and I've taken
>>> them through pretty rough New England trails with roots, rocks, etc and
>>> they've held up very well with no punctures.
>>>
>>> My new Rosco Bubbe build will have endurance knobbie RH but I
>>> haven't tried them yet, so can't compare them.
>>>
>>> Max
>>>
>>> On Thursday, October 10, 2024 at 4:46:34 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Please forgive the tangent, but can you say how well the
 Thunderburts roll compared to other similar tires, in particular — a 
 reach,
 here — to the RH Oracle Ridge?

 Also:

 Do they corner well on pavement?

 Do they hold sealant well — sidewall or bead seep?

 How well or badly do they resist punctures?

>>> --
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[RBW] Re: Dynamo Wire Aesthetics

[Spencer Robinson]

You know those plastic tubes that 90’s MTB would run the rear brake cable 
through along the top tube? I used one of them and a couple or 3 tiny zip 
ties to follow the brake cable, it kinda disappears that way. Plus it is on 
the non drive side for pictures! 

On Thursday, November 14, 2024 at 7:19:07 PM UTC-5 ian m wrote:

> My dynamo lighting "hack" has been to fully heat shrink wrap the chintzy 
> looking wire, it ends up looking more like cable housing which isn't so 
> jarring to look at on the frame, and I've found is easier to route around 
> rack parts
>
> On Thursday, November 14, 2024 at 1:05:19 PM UTC-5 Jkarlin wrote:
>
>> After putting together my first dynamo system (front and rear lights on a 
>> Clem L), and focusing solely on getting it to function, I took a step back 
>> and the rear wire wasn't exactly appealing to look at. Getting the wire to 
>> hug the frame and then the rear rack (Nitto 32R) nicely wasn't immediately 
>> intuitive to me. Do y'all have any thought or tips?
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Sam/Roadini Comparisons with wheel size difference

[Spencer Robinson]

This topic is interesting to me. I have had my side pull brake Sam for a 
good decade or so, I have it setup with 38’s, fenders and this past couple 
years I am back on Albatross bars. I also have a Heron Road with drops and 
32’s. I know that a lot is subjective but the Heron feels much lighter, 
faster. The Sam feels sluggish as compared to the Heron. The drawback to 
the Heron is that 32’s are just about the largest tire you can fit, I feel 
like for where I ride, if I could fit 38 or even 42, the Heron would be 
perfect… Long story short, it has led me to look at the Roadini, but I keep 
coming back to the thought that it doesn’t seem too much different than my 
Sam and is there enough difference to make a difference. I would consider 
the Roadini as my all road bike and set the Sam up sans fenders with larger 
more off road tires. The Heron would be my go fast with the roadies bike.


On Sunday, December 8, 2024 at 7:48:07 PM UTC-5 Ted Durant wrote:

> On Saturday, December 7, 2024 at 8:32:09 PM UTC-6 dane...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> The 48cm Sam is 650b and I'm wondering if I'll be giving up any of the 
> more road-ish feel of the bike with the same build but in 650b form on the 
> Sam?  Seems the Sam would be a little more versatile and have better 
> braking options, but a degree slacker STA and the HTA down to 71 from 72 on 
> he 650b Homer.   Wheelbase is about 10mm longer on the Homer.   Anybody 
> have any experience here? 
>
>
> I don't have a Roadini, but I have a Heron Road and Rivendell Road, which 
> are pretty similar, and I have 3 Sam Hillbornes. I bought one Sam, not sure 
> what I would think of it, and ended up buying 2 more, with 2 of them living 
> at my daughters' homes. I've posted a few times about this, so for those 
> who've heard it before, feel free to skip this one!
>
> The Sam is the heaviest bike I have at this point, and I _love_ riding it, 
> and I don't think it slows me down in any significant way. I ride ~48mm 
> tires on all three of them, maximizing the all-road utility, which I have 
> used to great advantage on dirt mountain roads around LA, gravel roads in 
> Maine, and lots of bumpy tarmac in Wisconsin and Ireland. The handling is 
> certainly different from my road bikes, but I have never thought "gee, I 
> wish I was on one of my other bikes" while riding a Sam.  I haven't tried, 
> say, 38mm tires on a Sam, but I expect they would significantly sharpen the 
> handling (along with lowering the COG by 10mm). 
>
> Don't underestimate the impact of the 71.5 degree seat tube angle, which 
> compares to 73 on my Heron and Riv (and 73.5 on my Waterford ST). It puts 
> the saddle 18mm farther back than a 73, at my saddle height of 715, without 
> making any offsetting changes to the saddle position in the seat post. You 
> have to take that into account when calculating what length stem to use. 
> I've noticed some hand issues, especially on my Waterford, and I'm 
> realizing now that the steep seat tube angle is probably a contributing 
> factor.  Whether a slacker STA is good for you, only you can decide. I 
> would note that, in general, the faster you ride the steeper a STA you'll 
> tolerate, because you're putting more weight on the pedal, which unloads 
> your hands. My hand issues on my Waterford are particularly noticeable if 
> I'm loafing along. I can loaf more comfortably on the Sam, without any 
> apparent loss of ability to put my (limited) power to the pedals.
>
> Interestingly, I was recently measured by a bike builder and his design 
> for me uses a 71.5 STA.
>
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee WI USA
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rene Herse Tire Actual Width

[Spencer Robinson]

Barlow Pass, endurance casing, mounted on Velocity A23 rims, tubeless, 40 
psi and about 2 seasons on them. I measure just a cat whisker under 40mm, 
I did attempt to measure the cat’s whisker but the cat was having none of 
the caliper in the face


On Tuesday, December 24, 2024 at 12:27:05 AM UTC-5 Bob Walicki wrote:

> Adding to this, just for more data in case it gets searched at some point.
>
> I'm running Snoqualmies, Endurance Plus. 700x44 at about 40 psi 
> (tubeless). They're at just under 43mm.
>
> Not too shabby.
>
> On Sat, Dec 14, 2024 at 10:09 PM Oliver Moss  
> wrote:
>
>> Thanks again all
>>
>> On Saturday, December 14, 2024 at 8:30:28 PM UTC-5 
>> ber...@bernardduhon.com wrote:
>>
>>> I Have RH 38 MM Barlow pass & 35 mm Bon Jovi pass endurance casing on 
>>> Campy proton rims 18 mm wide 
>>>
>>> They measure spot on
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> RH 32 mm measure 29 mm on campy neutrons,  but RH tells you on the 
>>> website they will measure 29mm
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> BTW the only tires I have ever had that measure as advertised
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> *From:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com  *On 
>>> Behalf Of *Father of Sam
>>> *Sent:* Friday, December 13, 2024 11:12 PM
>>> *To:* RBW Owners Bunch 
>>> *Subject:* [RBW] Re: Rene Herse Tire Actual Width
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> Hi Oliver,
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> You may have heard enough already, but I thought I'd throw my 2 cents 
>>> in:  
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> I've had 4 different models of RH tires mounted solely on Velocity 
>>> Cliffhanger rims (700c and 650B with an IW of 25mm), and all have measured 
>>> exactly as the label on their sidewalls indicate.  Cliffhangers are about 
>>> as wide a rimbrake capable rim as you'll find. My guess is that the 
>>> manufacturer would rather overshoot on the label than undershoot, as 
>>> ultimately the width of the rim dictates the actual mounted tire width.  If 
>>> RH were labeling their widths according to a median instead of a maximum 
>>> rim width (say, 19 or 20mm), then the Hatcher Pass might be labeled 700 x 
>>> 44 instead of 700 x 48.  If they're labeled as 44mm wide, and I've 
>>> carefully measured the clearance between my chainstays as 48mm, then I 
>>> would buy these Hatcher Pass tires expecting that they would have as 
>>> perfect (IMO) 2mm of clearance on each side.  But then, lo and behold, I 
>>> mount them on my Cliffhanger rims, and I'm left with a wheel whose tire 
>>> rubs the chainstays and I'm mumbling curses under my breath.  
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> Makes sense to me that stated width errs on the larger side. Hopefully 
>>> that lends a little peace of mind.
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> FWIW,
>>>
>>> Peter
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> On Thursday, December 12, 2024 at 9:34:26 PM UTC-8 Oliver Moss wrote:
>>>
>>> I've picked up a few different widths of RH 650b tires used and noticed 
>>> that they are consistently under the listed width by about 3-5mm. On the RH 
>>> website they list the approximate "actual" width with certain given rim 
>>> IDs, and I've noticed the ones I've gotten to be under.
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> The two rim IDs i've used are 17mm and 21.6mm
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> As an example, I'm running a set of Babyshoe Pass 42s on 17mm ID and 
>>> they are measuring 38mm
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> None of this is really too much of a deal as they are great tires and I 
>>> really enjoy riding on them, but I wondered what other's have noticed in 
>>> terms of actual width. Of course I know it all depends on the rim and 
>>> tire... ect. but it was something I noticed and thought I'd ask if anyone 
>>> else had the same experience.
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> ~Oliver
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
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>> 
>> .
>>
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[RBW] Re: Swept-back Bars = Knee Pain

[Spencer Robinson]

Yup, prolly need to raise the saddle but, definitely consult your bike 
fitter.  So, if you are sitting at your desk, (upright) and you lean 
forward (drops) you will notice that your hips roll up and back. 

On Sunday, April 13, 2025 at 5:35:51 PM UTC-4 Jay wrote:

> I know this crowd likes their swept-back bars so I thought you could help. 
>  I'm also going to ask my bike-fitter about this next week.
>
> I was running drop bars on my Salsa Fargo and had the saddle set at a 
> certain height and set back.  I never experienced any knee pain.  I 
> switched to a VO Crazy Bar, with a longer stem, and despite being quite 
> comfortable through my upper body, and having better handling on my local 
> trails, I've now developed pain on the front of one knee.  I did not adjust 
> the saddle.
>
> I know that one factor was the increased weight on the saddle from being 
> more upright has led to my seat post slipping a couple of times.  I've 
> caught this mid-ride, twice (and I've checked in all 10 or so rides since 
> switching bars).  So I've ridden at least part of a ride (maybe 20-30 
> minutes) with a seat post that was about 2mm lower than when I started. 
>  Not much, but I'm super-sensitive to fit.
>
> So my question is whether one should adjust their saddle height and set 
> back when riding in a more upright position (like 15 degrees more upright, 
> give-or-take)?  I wouldn't have thought so, but other than going back to 
> drop bars it's the only thing that may resolve this.  I ride this and my 
> Riv on a regular rotation, and never have the pain with the Riv, on or 1-2 
> days after riding.  With the Fargo, it feels strange on the ride, and I 
> definitely feel it later that day and next day.
>

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[RBW] Re: Romulus Redux

[Spencer Robinson]

wow! That is a good one! 
I had a blue Romulus , 57 cm, and I really enjoyed it. I also stuffed 40c 
tires in and actually rode it on a dirt road metric century, it did great 
except when the road turned to sticky mud…there was just not enough space 
between rubber and steel…front tire turned into a ski at one point.
They really are great frames. 

On Friday, February 28, 2025 at 3:15:10 PM UTC-5 gds...@gmail.com wrote:

> Minor update:
>
> The drivetrain had a bit of a hitch to it and though I can do the work 
> myself I elected to take it to the one lone Rivendell dealer (as far as I 
> know) down in Salt Lake City, Saturday Cycles. I bought my Clem frame from 
> them and they're a good bunch. So down the Rom went on Wednesday. They were 
> pretty psyched to see it and I look it as a win/win: I don't have to get 
> greasy and spend the time on the dirty work and they get to work on a nice 
> bike and make some money. Support your local LBS! It's going to get a 
> general tuneup, a new chain, and a slightly bigger cassette. The mechanic 
> (whose name I've spaced. Apologies) observed that with any lower gears I 
> might not be able to keep the bike upright going up something steep. I 
> agreed but replied I wanted to spin if possible. It's also going to get 
> cleaned and get new brakes - Paul Racers! I mean, I was considering 
> springing for a new frame, a Hilsen, so spending a grundle on brakes is in 
> the wheelhouse.
>
> I gotta tell you, with the fat tires and the handlebars up where they 
> arethis thing rides great. Man, it's fun. And fast! And I'm remembering 
> just how good drop bars feel. I'm so balanced I can get my butt off the 
> saddle and hands off the bars at the same time and the bike is unflustered, 
> and so am I!
>
> Here's a picture from 10 years ago, when I hung it up for other pursuits:
>
>
>
> And here's another shot of the recent iteration from a few days ago:
>
>
> On Sunday, February 23, 2025 at 9
>
> On Sunday, February 23, 2025 at 9:54:41 PM UTC-7 Gordon Stam wrote:
>
>> My Romulus has sat unridden for the better part of 10 years. Last year 
>> the bike flame rekindled and I got a Clem. I rode it a bunch and 
>> occasionally threw the leg over the Rom. In comparison the.couch that is 
>> the Clem the Romulus felt more like sitting on a stool. So with a spare 
>> stem I decided to raise the bars (and retape them) and replace the hoods. I 
>> also shoehorned on a pair of 40c GravelKings to replace the 33c Jack 
>> Browns. They're riding on 36 spoke Mavic Open Pro rims on Dura Ace hubs.
>>
>> The result is a lot of fun. It's got a comfortable reach to the bars and 
>> the tires are cushy. There's a bit of toe overlap and the reach down to the 
>> shifters is a bit excessive (considering barends) the riding position is 
>> quite comfortable. I have been considering swapping it out for an A. Homer 
>> Hilsen frame, which I think would work out really well, but for now I'm 
>> going to give this Romulus a go. The Homer, though, is a future 
>> possibility. It would make a nice stable.
>>
>> The color, if anyone is wondering, was a stock Rivendell color from back 
>> then: Pea Sage Green. The frame I bought was a warrantee hold back frame so 
>> it was unpainted. They said I could get it painted any color I wanted. 
>> After an exhaustive search I landed on Pea Sage. Some times the answer is 
>> right in front of you.
>>
>> I'm a little shy of 6'2" and have 91cm pbh.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Nitto Technomic/Tallux for off-road touring

[Spencer Robinson]

I just received a Nitto FW30 Power Stem (130mm)from Blue Lug today and 
installed it in place of the beautiful Nitto Technomic that I had on my 
Sam. When running on trails or rough terrain the Albatross bars would slip 
every so often. I am very hopeful that this 4 bolt faceplate design solves 
this for me. From a strictly aesthetic point of view, the Technomic/Tallux 
wins hands down and if the bars still try to slip with the power stem, I 
will change back.

On Wednesday, March 5, 2025 at 8:50:09 PM UTC-5 Ben Miller wrote:

> Hey all, just thought I'd mention that more bolts doesn't necessarily 
> equal more clamping force. Clamping force is generally proportional to the 
> lowest preloaded bolt in the system. More bolts really only help to even 
> spread the force, not magnify the clamping force (The main reason to use 
> multiple bolts is to spread the shear/tensional load across multiple bolts).
>
> That said, the Technomic/Tallux actually uses a much larger bolt than the 
> UI-2: I believe M8 vs M5. The yield strength on the M8 is ~x2.5 greater 
> than an M5. So, a properly preloaded Technomic *should* actually be 
> providing about two and a half times greater clamping force. Of course, it 
> will actually be less than that, mostly because of the inherent stiffness 
> of the Tech/Tallux clamp itself that the bolt has to overcome and likely 
> some other loses due to the single bolt design. But I'm guessing it's still 
> a whole lot higher for the Tech/Tallux vs UI-2. (It'd be interesting if 
> someone had a thin film pressure transducer to measure it, but I doubt TF 
> pressure transducers in the ~2000 PSI range are hard to come by. It's 
> probably be easier to just measure the torque requires to get the bars to 
> slip...)
>
> Other than bolt diameter on your stem, the main other thing resisting 
> turning is the diameter of the clamp itself. That is why modern MTB have 
> gone to 31.8 or 35 mm clamp diameters. You can also help things out by 
> doctoring your coefficient of friction by adding some anti-slip 
> grease/carbon assembly paste.  
>
> *TL;DR More bolts are used to lessen chance of bolts breaking, not 
> increasing force. Clamping force is roughly proportion to the stem bolt 
> size. Bigger bolts can provide significantly more force. *
> On Wednesday, March 5, 2025 at 3:32:22 PM UTC-8 der_amerikanische_freund 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi Mike, thanks for the recommendation, I've looked it up and looks like 
>> a good compromise between a Tallux and full-on 4-bolt stem.
>>
>> El miércoles, 5 de marzo de 2025 a las 0:22:09 UTC, mwill...@gmail.com 
>> escribió:
>>
>>> Just in case you’re interested, Blue Lug has the Nitto UI-2 stem (26.0 
>>> clamp) in stock in all sizes from 60 to 120. Great stem for Ortho bars. 
>>> Nitto 90-190’s in stock as well.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> On Mar 4, 2025, at 2:29 PM, jaredwilson  wrote:
>>>
>>> Personally it sounds like you'll be fine given you know what to look 
>>> out for and how to handle a bike appropriately given the terrain, but I 
>>> will say the *fillet* Nitto Faceplater stems are well worth the coin 
>>> and peace of mind if you can find one in your size.
>>>
>>>
>>> Best of luck and be sure to report back with your findings and pictures 
>>> whenever possible.
>>>
>>> jared in SC, CA
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, March 4, 2025 at 11:23:50 AM UTC-8 der_amerikanische_freund 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Thank you for all your answers.

 I was pretty confident on using the Technomic/Tallux based on all the 
 answer-s before Bill's. However, considering I will be using Ortho's or 
 similar bars, I may have to reconsider my position. I'm 170 pounds and 
 know 
 how to ride light (the only riding I know in fact!), but will be using 
 swept-back bars.

 Regards

 El martes, 4 de marzo de 2025 a las 18:10:02 UTC, davids...@gmail.com 
 escribió:

> I ride a tallux through single track with no issues. However, to echo 
> Bill's statements, always on drop bars and "riding light." 
>
> On Tuesday, March 4, 2025 at 8:24:07 AM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> It depends on lots of things.  Top 5 in my mind are:
>>
>> Are you 140 pounds?  That's a big plus in favor of using a Technomic 
>> Deluxe wherever you feel like it.  Are you 280 pounds?  Not so much
>> What bars are you using?  normal drop bars?  That's a big plus. 
>>  Boscos or other very very long lever arm swept-back bars?  Not so much
>> What does off road riding mean to you?  Smooth roads that happen to 
>> be unpaved?  That's a big plus.  Absolutely anything that the adrenaline 
>> junkies take bicycles on?  Not so much
>> Do you know how to "ride light"?  If so, that's a big plus.  If you 
>> don't know what that even means, maybe not so much
>> When your handlebar moves in the stem, do you just re-position it and 
>> keep riding?  That's a big plus.  Do you fret and worry and rush to 
>> replace 
>>

Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Meetup, NY! May 17th in Kingston, NY

[Spencer Robinson]

Looks like about 21 miles from Poughkeepsie Train Station to Ollies. A 
bunch of the route is on rail trail. 
Ollies address is 4 Bruceville Road, High Falls, NY.

https://ridewithgps.com/routes/50741421

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Meetup, NY! May 17th in Kingston, NY

[Spencer Robinson]

oh Boy! I have a real dilemma now…I signed up for the Farmers Daughter 
Gravel Ride on the 18th, months ago…If I go Riving on Saturday and Gravdad 
on Sunday…I don’t know 

On Tuesday, May 6, 2025 at 6:28:35 PM UTC-4 bryan...@gmail.com wrote:

> Great to hear Bob! Looking forward to it. As of right now we have around 
> 20 or so people joining us. Keep em coming!
>
> On Tue, May 6, 2025 at 10:31 AM Bob Ehrenbeck  wrote:
>
>> I'll be there, as well!
>>
>> Bob E
>> Cranford, NJ
>>
>> On Sunday, May 4, 2025 at 5:38:33 PM UTC-4 bryan...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Great to hear that Dan! Looking forward to it as well, I can promise a 
>>> good time and a nice casual ride.
>>>
>>> On Sunday, May 4, 2025 at 3:24:35 PM UTC-4 d4du...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 We are in! Looking forward to meeting, greeting, eating, and riding 
 with you all.
 Dan and Claudia

 On Wednesday, April 23, 2025 at 10:58:45 AM UTC-4 Minh wrote:

> Maeve, make sure you book soon, when I checked a few days ago only a 
> few bikes reservations were remaining and the price at the time was  $46 
> each way (26+20 for the bike)
>
> I can't commit that far ahead so I think i'll take Metro North to 
> Poughkeepsie and then ride the 2 ish hours to Kingston and try to catch 
> the 
> group at mid ride or at lunch.   Someone did inform me that there is a 
> UTA 
> bus (that has a bike rack) at the Poughkeepsie station that goes to 
> downtown Kingston, but there is only a bus at 9 or 11AM, and first train 
> into Poughkeepsie is 9AM so iffy if you could catch it.  
>
> On Tuesday, April 22, 2025 at 8:47:41 PM UTC-4 maeve@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Thinking about coming to this as well! I'm only seeing an Amtrak 
>> train arriving in Rhinecliff at 9 though .So may be on that one
>>
>> On Monday, April 21, 2025 at 2:25:29 PM UTC-4 bryan...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Minh,
>>>
>>> As of right now, we are trying to be wheels down at about 11am. But 
>>> if you are planning to come, perhaps you can text me your ETA on the 
>>> day 
>>> of. If it's only going to be 5-10 minutes or so, it should be fine. 
>>> We're 
>>> using the first hour of the event as a bit of a meet and greet and an 
>>> opportunity to grab some coffee and snacks.
>>>
>>> Hope that helps!
>>>
>>> Bryan
>>>
>>> On Mon, Apr 21, 2025 at 10:49 AM Minh  wrote:
>>>
 Hey Brian,
 sounds neat, do you have a rough schedule mapped out yet?  I'm 
 checking the train schedule from NYC and Amtrak to Rhinecliff gets in 
 at 
 10AM with 1 hr ride to Kingston, and Metro North to Poughkeepsie gets 
 in at 
 9AM with a 2 hr ride to Kingston, so both would be a little tight for 
 an 
 11AM start (at least for me!)  I would try to catch up mid-ride or at 
 lunch 
 and finish the ride?  



 On Sunday, April 20, 2025 at 6:31:34 PM UTC-4 bryan...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> Hey folks!
>
> Along with some friends and Utility Bicycle Works located in 
> Kingston, NY, we are throwing a little celebration of all things 
> Rivendell 
> and we invite any and all of you to please join us! Here are some 
> details 
> but expect a very casual ride with a lunch stop.
>
> - Meet at 10am at Utility Bicycle Works in Kingston, NY
> - Tentative roll out time is 11am from Utility
> - There will likely be coffee and snacks at Golden Hour Grocery, 
> which is set to open up next door very soon
> - We are making a lunch stop about midway through the ride at 
> Ollie's Pizza in High Falls, NY (the pizza is great and there is a 
> very big 
> courtyard that can hold a good bunch of people)
> - The ride will be mostly on the O&W Rail Trail starting from 
> Kingston, which is almost entirely gravel
>
> We're hoping to see as many Rivendell bikes as possible, but all 
> steel bikes are welcome. Please feel free to reach out to me (Bryan, 
> bryan...@yahoo.com) for any questions or additional details. Come 
> on out! We hope you do.
>
> Bryan
>
> [image: UBW_RBW_may17-ig.JPG]
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Meetup, NY! May 17th in Kingston, NY

[Spencer Robinson]

Oh…heehee…I’m not worried about the miles…

On Tue, May 6, 2025 at 8:40 PM Bryan Dalik  wrote:

> Rest assured Spencer, this is as casual as it gets for riding on the 17th.
> We knew about the Farmer's Daughter, but the 17th worked best for other
> Bryan, owner of Utility Bicycle Works. I think all together it will be
> 24ish miles of rail trail with a little bit of elevation. The idea is for
> this to be friendly to rider's of all capacities. I will be going slow
> enough to snap photos along the way, in my eyes.
>
> On Tue, May 6, 2025 at 8:37 PM Spencer Robinson 
> wrote:
>
>> oh Boy! I have a real dilemma now…I signed up for the Farmers Daughter
>> Gravel Ride on the 18th, months ago…If I go Riving on Saturday and Gravdad
>> on Sunday…I don’t know
>>
>> On Tuesday, May 6, 2025 at 6:28:35 PM UTC-4 bryan...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Great to hear Bob! Looking forward to it. As of right now we have around
>>> 20 or so people joining us. Keep em coming!
>>>
>>> On Tue, May 6, 2025 at 10:31 AM Bob Ehrenbeck  wrote:
>>>
>>>> I'll be there, as well!
>>>>
>>>> Bob E
>>>> Cranford, NJ
>>>>
>>>> On Sunday, May 4, 2025 at 5:38:33 PM UTC-4 bryan...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Great to hear that Dan! Looking forward to it as well, I can promise a
>>>>> good time and a nice casual ride.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Sunday, May 4, 2025 at 3:24:35 PM UTC-4 d4du...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> We are in! Looking forward to meeting, greeting, eating, and riding
>>>>>> with you all.
>>>>>> Dan and Claudia
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Wednesday, April 23, 2025 at 10:58:45 AM UTC-4 Minh wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Maeve, make sure you book soon, when I checked a few days ago only a
>>>>>>> few bikes reservations were remaining and the price at the time was  $46
>>>>>>> each way (26+20 for the bike)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I can't commit that far ahead so I think i'll take Metro North to
>>>>>>> Poughkeepsie and then ride the 2 ish hours to Kingston and try to catch 
>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> group at mid ride or at lunch.   Someone did inform me that there is a 
>>>>>>> UTA
>>>>>>> bus (that has a bike rack) at the Poughkeepsie station that goes to
>>>>>>> downtown Kingston, but there is only a bus at 9 or 11AM, and first train
>>>>>>> into Poughkeepsie is 9AM so iffy if you could catch it.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Tuesday, April 22, 2025 at 8:47:41 PM UTC-4 maeve@gmail.com
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Thinking about coming to this as well! I'm only seeing an Amtrak
>>>>>>>> train arriving in Rhinecliff at 9 though .So may be on that one
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Monday, April 21, 2025 at 2:25:29 PM UTC-4 bryan...@gmail.com
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Hi Minh,
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> As of right now, we are trying to be wheels down at about 11am.
>>>>>>>>> But if you are planning to come, perhaps you can text me your ETA on 
>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>> day of. If it's only going to be 5-10 minutes or so, it should be 
>>>>>>>>> fine.
>>>>>>>>> We're using the first hour of the event as a bit of a meet and greet 
>>>>>>>>> and an
>>>>>>>>> opportunity to grab some coffee and snacks.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Hope that helps!
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Bryan
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Mon, Apr 21, 2025 at 10:49 AM Minh  wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Hey Brian,
>>>>>>>>>> sounds neat, do you have a rough schedule mapped out yet?  I'm
>>>>>>>>>> checking the train schedule from NYC and Amtrak to Rhinecliff gets 
>>>>>>>>>> in at
>>>>>>>>>> 10AM with 1 hr ride to Kingston, and Metro North to Poughkeepsie 
&g

[RBW] Re: Shimagnolo brifter hack - success stories?

[Spencer Robinson]

I am running my Heron Road with Campy 10 speed  centaur bifters, Shimano 
Long cage XT Rear Derailleur with a shiftmate…on a large, wide range 10 
speed cassette.  I think it performs flawlessly. 

On Thursday, July 17, 2025 at 11:15:38 PM UTC-4 Michael Connors wrote:

> I haven't done it, but here is an article:
>
> https://www.cyclinguk.org/cyclists-library/components/transmission-gears/derailleur-gears/shimergo
>
> On Thursday, July 17, 2025 at 9:22:38 PM UTC-5 Oliver Moss wrote:
>
>> Hey Bryan,
>>
>> I've done this and it does indeed work, but you will need to route the 
>> cable at the derailleur clamp if the funky manner. I'm currently using a 
>> JTek Shiftmate to use Campy 10sp brifters with a Dura-Ace 7700 derailleur, 
>> and this also works very well, but the Shiftmates are getting hard to find. 
>>
>> Good luck, and have fun trying stuff out.
>>
>> ~Oliver
>> On Thursday, July 17, 2025 at 6:41:51 PM UTC-4 Bryan Dalik wrote:
>>
>>> Inspired by Roman's Roadini (and I think Antonio has a Roadini with this 
>>> hack as well), I want to jump down the Campy/Shimano rabbit hole to make 
>>> some 10 speed Campy shifters work with a Shimano 9 speed cassette and XTR 
>>> deraileur. Here's what I've got and hope to make work - 
>>>
>>> XTR m950 rear deraileur
>>> Shimano HG 11-36T cassette
>>>
>>> Currently scouring the internet for some 10 speed Campy brifters for a 
>>> good deal (anyone have some?) but can this work? Do I need to do the funky 
>>> cable routing?
>>>
>>> Is anyone out there using this setup with good success? Would love to 
>>> hear from you.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>> Bryan
>>>
>>

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