[RBW] Re: who has MUSA pants?

2009-11-12 Thread Jude

Just for reference.  I'm thin - 5'8" 145lbs - and the small fit me
just right.  I decided on the small because riv listed them as "full
cut" in the quad area.  I've been riding more regularly and the legs
seem more snug.  I will consider a medium when I order the next pair.

The pants feel great with only one layer (undies or woolies)
underneath.  With bike shorts they still fit well.  With woolies and
bike shorts underneath they just start to feel snug.  They have been
my first choice for about a year - they're so thin and "not there".
Even if it's raining I'll wear them because they cling without being
annoying and dry out quick.  With woolies underneath you don't even
notice the rain.

The fabric has held up better than expected.  The saddle has given
back some of it's dye and natural oils.  The discoloration is
persisting between washes but I can't blame the pants.  The amount of
wear is much lower than the abuse given.

The details are useful.  Deep pockets, velcro to cinch the leg as
knickers.  Overall, highly recommended.

-Jude

P.S. - I was hoping the riv MUSA rain pants would give me a winter
riding solution.  I just can't get over the orange.  I don't mind
garish colors but I already wear a bright yellow raincoat for all
weather.  The clash between orange and yellow is just too much.  When
you ride your bike full time you have to wear your pants - to work,
with friends, to dinner, art openings - they just don't work if
they're orange.  I'm already known as "the guy who wears strange bike
clothes" - but ORANGE - my social life just can't take it.

On Nov 11, 9:40 pm, "LyleBogart{AT}gmail.com" 
wrote:
> Hi Jim,
>
> I guess I fall into the thin category--6'1", 185 pounds--I really like
> my MUSA pants and found that I had to buy a size larger than I'm
> accustomed to so that the thighs weren't too tight.
>
> lyle
>
> On Nov 11, 10:19 am, jim_OLP  wrote:
>
> > I'm considering them but I read one review saying they were billowy in
> > front, and I hate pants like that. I'm a thin guy and am so tired of
> > wearing the baggy stuff in stores today.   I could maybe overlook the
> > weird blue crotch that looks like you just sat on something wet, but
> > if they're balloon-cut upstairs, that's a deal-breaker.  Any thin guys
> > wearing these?
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[RBW] Re: anyone notice the subtle change to RBW website

2009-12-15 Thread Jude
I like the antonym.
http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/ensmallen

Should be on the hover to close the window

On Dec 15, 7:30 am, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/embiggen

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam Chainring Clearance

2009-12-16 Thread Jude
I noticed the same thing on my Atlantis.

One thing to note.  I was reading an old Rivendell Reader and came
upon Grant's 12 bike tips (or something like that).  One tip was -
never grease tapered crank spindles.  I thought about it for a minute
and felt a little foolish.  I thought about how the two pieces are
machined for a perfect fit.  The metals involved are fairly soft and
the crank bolt is sturdy.  Sturdy enough to give it a LOT of torque.
The grease provides too much friction and aluminum begins to deform.

After a stuck seat post I grease every metal-to-metal contact on the
bike.  I noticed a burr on my square taper from the crank arm driven
on a bit too far.  So far it isn't a problem, but if I had done it for
years I may have eventually shifted the chain rings too much.  This
can all be cured by replacing the axle and crank so it isn't the end
of the world.

-Jude

On Dec 16, 12:11 am, Horace  wrote:
> It's pretty tight. But I figured, as long as there was _some_ clearance, it
> didn't matter to me.

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[RBW] Re: was: Rodeo 650B? --> now: flickr blocked

2010-09-30 Thread Jude
Maybe this will work for you ...
http://www.tothepc.com/archives/open-blocked-flickr-photos-by-changing-url/

On Sep 30, 11:54 am, "cyclotour...@gmail.com" 
wrote:
> Does anyone know a work-around for flickr?
>
> My employer blocks it due to the potential to see naughty bits, so I
> can't see 650b conversions and what not.
>
> Gracias
>
> On Sep 30, 7:44 am, rperks  wrote:
>
> > I would likely guess that I am not the first one to fit the 650b wheel
> > into every bike in the garage the first time you get on home and set
> > up.  I was putting together a 650b conversion for the wife's bike and
> > thought I would grab a few dimensions on all other potential
> > conversion bikes in the stable while was at it.
>
> > The Roadeo was one of my more interesting canidates.  The wheel was
> > built up with Dyad rims and col de la vie tires that hit the calipers
> > around 37.5mm or so.  you can see a few pics of the front here:
>
> >http://flic.kr/p/8Ff5uMhttp://flic.kr/p/8FieHJhttp://flic.kr/p/8Ff3Zg
>
> > The clearance is tight, 4mm or so, but it fit.  Brake reach would be
> > in the 75mm range.  The rear was similar.  I would put this in the
> > possible but why bother catagory.  The gain over the Jack Browns while
> > significant is not that big, and the fender clearance while huge in
> > the verticle would still be very tight in the width department.
>
> > Now the pile of old Trek frames and even the Eisentraut maybe, but
> > those are discussions for another forum.
>
> > Rob

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[RBW] Re: NY/PA/NJ Rivendell Rally - Spring 2011

2010-11-14 Thread Jude
Count me in.  Coming from Rochester, NY
-Jude

On Nov 14, 3:23 pm, Montclair BobbyB 
wrote:
> VERY KIND OF YOU, AJ... THANKS!
>
> I'm already checking into a few potential spots... One potential might
> be the Pine Creek Gorge (aka the "Grand Canyon of PA"), located near
> Wellsboro (in north-central PA)... it features a very long rail trail
> through the scenic gorge, and is considered one of the top 10 in the
> US Also there appear to be many nice back road options in the
> area...http://www.pinecreekbikerides.com/(although I only briefly
> looked at this)... It looks like it has great potential.
>
> Anyone from the region with knowledge of Pine Creek (or any other
> possibilities), please let me know... THANKS!
>
> BB
>
> On Nov 14, 1:56 pm, AJ  wrote:
>
> > Good thought BB, I have a couple of road worthy riv's if anyone wants
> > to borrow one (60-61cm) for the rally.
> > Cheers,
> > AJ

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[RBW] Re: QB drivetrain questions

2010-01-29 Thread Jude
I'm surprised that Harris recommended the 1/8" chain considering
Sheldon's advice ...
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixeda.html#chain

If you look on Peter White's site he recommends the 1/8" chain because
it has bushings.  I can't find it now, but I'm pretty sure I read
where Sheldon had recommended against 1/8" BECAUSE of the bushings.
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fixed.asp
(search on "Izumi Track Chains 1-1/8")

Mr. White had additional information about Cranks.  On the same page
he says (my paraphrasing) - track cranks, bb, chainrings, etc. are
built to a higher standard than those intended for derailleur
bicycles.  He sells many Sugino cranks on that page but doesn't
include the XD2.  Is the XD2 with (I'm guessing) standard road
chainrings a compromise in any way?

I guess these are just theoretical questions since I'm quite happy
with the stock configuration.

On Jan 29, 12:07 pm, Mike  wrote:
> Oops. Yeah, I have a Shimano freewheel that can take 1/8th or 3/32
> chain. The chain is a SRAM PC7X 1/8 chain. I went with this chain as
> it was strongly recommended by Harris Cyclery. I figured it would be
> stronger but didn't really think about how it would work with the
> front chain rings. I should be able to swap it out.
>
> Thanks for the info.
>
> --mike

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[RBW] Re: QB drivetrain questions

2010-01-30 Thread Jude
Below are the links I was thinking of.

I am not a bike mechanic and would appreciate corrections.  I
understand a 1/8" chain to have traditional bushings and the 3/32" to
have a redesigned bushing.  Both opinions below seem to lean toward
3/32", in the general sense.  I'm not sure if this is true in the
fixed/single context but I don't think you can use 1/8" for a bicycle
that shifts (non-IG).

Jobst Brandt
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/chain-care.html

Sheldon Brown
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

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[RBW] Re: Fun with a Stuck Seatpost

2009-06-24 Thread Jude

I had the same problem with an aluminum post stuck in a steel Bianchi
Volpe frame.  I tried all matter of twisting, tapping, penetrating,
etc.  I finally pulled the bottom bracket and turned the bike upside
down.  Ran about 2 or 3 cups of ammonia down the seat tube and let it
sit overnight, did the same again the next day.  On the third day I
was able to work it out of the frame.  The post was ruined but my
frame was still intact.

Ammonia works well when it’s a chemical bond between steel and
aluminum.  From what I’ve read the penetrating oil won’t really help
in this situation.

On Jun 24, 5:20 am, Robert Linthicum  wrote:
> Thanks very much for the suggestions.  I particularly like the advice
> to wait a while & let the penetrant do its thing, because that is what
> I'm doing now.  I have the bike in my living room to remind myself to
> drip a little more liquid wrench in every day, and to give the
> seatpost a daily nudge or two for encouragement. I have been riding
> with the seatpost bolt completely removed, and I spread the seatpost
> bolt collar a bit with a flat-blade screwdriver. I went out for a ride
> and took care to put as much of my weight on the saddle as possible,
> but no luck.
>
> Since, as I mentioned, the thing is at the correct height, I've got
> some time.  My main concern about this situation is that my sons won't
> be able to ride the bike, when they are big enough, and they are gonzo
> cyclists.
>
> I am taking the Zen approach, for the moment.  I will prevail.
>
> Best regards,
> Bob
>
> On Jun 23, 10:16 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
>
>  wrote:
> > I'm with Bill C. Let it soak in a few applications of penetrating oil
> > for a few days or a few weeks. It would probably be foolish to destroy
> > the seatpost, since it's at the correct height.
>
> > On Jun 23, 5:23 am, Bob  wrote:
>
> > > My daily rider, a vintage steel Trek, is now afflicted. This is
> > > embarrassing, because I remember pulling the post about two years ago
> > > and slathering it with Phil Wood grease and Park Anti-Seize.  Oh well.
>
> > > Thus far, I have tried removing the saddle and tapping with a mallet
> > > and wooden block; heating with a hair dryer after dripping Liquid
> > > Wrench and other penetrants from all sides; and just about every
> > > technique Sheldon recommended on his site.
>
> > > I am trying not do do something so rash that I damage any equipment.
>
> > > Luckily, the seat height is just about right, but I just can't sleep
> > > knowing one of my rides has a frozen 'post.
>
> > > Word to the wise:  Pull your post occasionally, because you can . . .
>
> > > Peace,
> > > Bob

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[RBW] Re: What to do after a "rain ride"?

2009-09-14 Thread Jude

Post rainy ride I just throw it in the basement.  I'm not the
yardstick to measure against since I have some rust starting.

I've had problems with stuck seat posts (other bikes) so I make sure
the post and stem have plenty of grease.  This is an ongoing
maintenance item.

The only time I really pay attention is when the temps dip below
freezing.  If I cake it with ice/snow and bring it inside I let it dry
completely before bringing it back out.  I've heard that a re-freeze
of melted slush can really cause havoc.  If I plan on riding again I
lock it outside my apartment so the crud stays frozen.

-Jude

On Sep 14, 1:53 pm, Angus  wrote:
> I put a couple of hours on the (fendered) Atlantis in a light rain
> this Saturday.  Afterwards I lubed the chain, pulled out the stem to
> check for water intrusion (there was none) and wiped the gray junk off
> the rims.
>
> I'm curious what others do to their bikes after riding in the rain?
>
> Angus
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[RBW] Re: puzzling malfunction

2009-02-25 Thread Jude

I thought I was the only one having this problem.  I tried different
operating systems, different browsers, different groups, all without
resolution.  I assumed the "Expand All" option had some failing
JavaScript.  Thanks for the URL spoof workaround, it was killing me to
keep going older, older, older on the topic page until I reached the
desired thread.  This must be a problem on google's end of things but
I couldn't find other users complaining about the issue.

On Feb 25, 7:49 am, Bob Cooper  wrote:
> On Feb 24, 9:50 pm, "Bill M."  wrote:
>
> > You can also click the "expand all" link at the top of the page...
>
> That's what I thought was odd.
>
> The EXPAND ALL button doesn't work.
>
> This is the first time in a decade of surfing these types of lists
> that this has ever happened to me.

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[RBW] Re: Noob question of the week: what's the deal with chain suck?

2013-03-13 Thread Jude

On Mar 11, 2:31 pm, Cyclofiend Jim  wrote:
> Hmmm... downhill with low-load and brand new components is definitely
> weird.  I'd suspect a stiff chain link before blaming an inherent design
> flaw.

Count me as another user who experienced this.  Maiden voyage of my
Atlantis.  Very easy riding, just checking out the gears, flat ground,
zero load, normal shift into the granny ... CRUNCH!!!

Everything was new and built up by Rivendell.  One additional data
point.  It was darn cold that day (which I've heard can be a
contributing factor).

Chain suck has happened to me maybe a dozen times in the five years
since.  I could install an anti-suck device but the damage has been
done (over and over).  I just stomp the chain out (cringe) and keep
riding.  Once, it was so bad I had to pull the crank (that was ugly,
extra hard stomps didn't work) luckily I was close to home.

I can usually avoid the problem with an extra careful shift.  But when
I'm tired and forget to be gentle ... CRUNCH!!  I think it's probably
a combination of Triple / small granny / shaped chainstays.

-Jude

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[RBW] Re: 10-speed friction shifting probs gettin' a look-see today.

2012-09-06 Thread Jude
I just swapped the 9-speed cassette on a RB-T CL frankenbike for an 8-
speed spare I had lying around (cassette and chain).  I was having all
kinds of problems with ghost shifting and holding the gear.  Eight
speed works like a dream with the friction ... it's like a new bike.

Switch to 8 - you won't regret it.

On Sep 6, 10:41 am, Patrick in VT  wrote:
> On Wednesday, September 5, 2012 12:38:46 AM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:
>
> > Still auto-shifting away after the first ride. Bike is really unrideable
> >> this way as it hurts the back when the gear unexpectedly shifts. Similar to
> >> the effect you get when the chain skips.
>
> is there a particular reason why you want 10spd friction?  not saying it
> can't work or won't work, but indexing is going to work much better and
> without the fuss.  indexing is simply more precise with 10spd tolerance.
> friction is dreamy up to 8spd for me; indexing for 9-10spd.

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[RBW] Re: FS 54cm Hunqapillar

2012-09-28 Thread Jude
> Jay:
>
> Your photo link doesn't work.

Take the stars off the end ...
http://postimage.org/gallery/m2e4bn6/041fd441/

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[RBW] Re: Lights for a Schmidt SON28?

2011-09-07 Thread Jude
> Regarding Cyo, how does it hold up under bucketing rain?  Does it take
> on water?  I've read some concerns about it not being as tight as the
> Edelux...

I mounted the first Cyo on the forward tab of a Nitto M12 rack.  This
placed the light directly in the spray of the tire.  I kept thinking
"I need to move that light or extend the fender".  After about a year
it finally failed in a downpour.  I tried letting it dry for a week
but that didn't help.  Luckily it was still under warranty, Peter
White replaced it.  I was honest about the conditions and the
placement.

After that I followed Bicycle Quarterly's advice.  The new light is
mounted under the rack to the side.   Rene Herse sells a bracket at a
fair price though one could easily make their own.  Great placement
and keeps the light out of the spray.
http://www.renehersestore.com/servlet/the-341/Light-Bracket-for-Edelux/Detail

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