[RBW] Re: I know we're not supposed to talk about weight, but anyone Sam weight

2009-09-29 Thread John McMurry

On Sep 29, 9:46 am, Bruce  wrote:
> Weight is more a mental thing than a real physical factor for the 
> recreational/touring rider.

I disagree.  For a recreational/touring rider who may stop and start
quite often, and doesn't push for high speeds; weight matters and is a
real, measurable, physical factor.

I'm not suggesting gram shaving a commuter at the expense of
durability.  But if you're carrying around unnecessary extra pounds;
they generally won't add to the enjoyment of riding a bicycle unless
your ride is all downhill.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT
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[RBW] Re: I know we're not supposed to talk about weight, but anyone Sam weight

2009-09-29 Thread John McMurry



On Sep 29, 10:57 am, Tim McNamara  wrote:
> On Sep 29, 2009, at 9:19 AM, John McMurry wrote:
>
> > On Sep 29, 9:46 am, Bruce  wrote:
> >> Weight is more a mental thing than a real physical factor for the  
> >> recreational/touring rider.
>
> > I disagree.  For a recreational/touring rider who may stop and start
> > quite often, and doesn't push for high speeds; weight matters and is a
> > real, measurable, physical factor.
>
> > I'm not suggesting gram shaving a commuter at the expense of
> > durability.  But if you're carrying around unnecessary extra pounds;
> > they generally won't add to the enjoyment of riding a bicycle unless
> > your ride is all downhill.
>
> I don't know about that.  I have a 21 lb bike (my old race bike, with  
> a heavier and more comfortable saddle than I used to use plus having  
> swapped out the Campy Ergo stuff for more "sensible" components) and  
> my All-Rounder which weighs in around 28 lbs with fenders, front  
> rack, handlebar bag, generator and lights, 30+ year old Brooks Pro,  
> etc.  My speeds on the A/R aren't any slower and I enjoy riding it  
> much more on hilly or flat rides.

When comparing those two bikes, you introduce too many variables to
accurately isolate only one.

Though, when your A/R handlebar bag is full with a commute load it
will be slower than without it (all else equal).

Not that speed is your goal, and not that a minute off your commute is
a big deal; my point being is that weight makes a real, measurable,
physical difference.  Whether that matters to you or not is a personal
decision.

FYI, I'm perfectly happy, comfortable, and attain enjoyable speeds on
an AHH with 42mm tires, 36 spoked wheels, fenders, bags, dynamo, etc.
(even though I'm measurably faster on my 32 hole White Ind. wheelset
with 30mm tires on the same bike).

-not _intentionally_  poking a bee's nest

John McMurry
Burlington, VT


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[RBW] Re: Winter Riding Clothing

2009-10-05 Thread John McMurry

The Ibex Hybrid Dash jacket with a merino wool base layer (Icebreaker,
Ibex, or Woolywarm, or Bicycle Fixation's Ninja Jersey) keeps me more
comfortable, in the widest range of conditions, than any other
combination I've tried.  As an added bonus, it looks a heck of a lot
better than some of the outfits I've been caught wearing too:
http://tinyurl.com/ycls729

John McMurry
Burlington, VT


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[RBW] Re: 650B for the long haul?

2009-10-06 Thread John McMurry

>On Oct 4, 8:21 am, EricP  wrote:
>> On Oct 3, 8:44 pm, JL  wrote:
> > well, there is at least the 650b Nokian A10 around, perhaps more
> > studded tires on the way.
>
> Yes, I know.  Tried them.  But they don't fit Synergy rims.

The 584mm Nokian A10's fit Velocity Synergy rims perfectly, at least
on the pairs I own.

Sounds like you had an off-spec pair or maybe I got incredibly lucky.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT
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[RBW] Re: AHH as a road bike

2009-12-04 Thread John McMurry
On Dec 3, 9:34 am, Shawn  wrote:
> I have been thinking of making my Hilsen
> more of a roadish type bike to use on week-end rides with my friends
> on our smooth local MUP.

> Is the Rambouillet a better road bike than the Hilsen?

I don't think so.  The Rambouillet has about 5mm less of the exact
same tubing per fork end; which makes it less adaptable, should you
decide to switch back to larger tires.

 http://search.bikelist.org/getmsg.asp?Filename=saluki.10502.0058.eml

I'd strip it down, build a relatively light wheelset and use great
tires if I wanted a dedicated go-fast bike.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT

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[RBW] Re: AT 0154

2009-12-10 Thread John McMurry
On Dec 10, 4:16 am, Cycletex  wrote:
> Cool!
>
> BTW - What spindle length are you looking for and are you going by the
> Sheldon Brown suggestions for the AT?

On the Saluki/AHH; an offset 122.5mm spindle works well for a 2-ring
Sugino AT, 127mm for a triple.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT

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[RBW] Re: WAS: AT 0154 NOW: Sugino AT spindle length

2009-12-10 Thread John McMurry
On Dec 10, 12:20 pm, Cycletex  wrote:
> Thanks Jason. The Sheldon Brown bottom bracket page lists a 115.5mm
> shimano un73 and 2mm spacer for the Sugino AT. Is that really going to
> work?

No, not on the Atlantis.

Spindle lengths vary according to:

cranksets, and
frame spacing, and
# of chainrings, and
and the shape of the chainstays.

One size does not fit all.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT

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[RBW] Re: WAS: AT 0154 NOW: Sugino AT spindle length

2009-12-10 Thread John McMurry
On Dec 10, 1:33 pm, "Frederick, Steve" 
wrote:
> I rat an AT on my Rambouillet (or Saluki--can't recall now) for a while (with 
>a 135 OLD rear hub) and had to go crazy long for the spindle.  Tried a Shimano 
>127 and the granny bottomed out on the chainstay before I even tightened the 
>crank bolt.

Did you recall spacing the drive-side cup out any?

Here's a picture of clearances using 123mm Phil Wood BB on a double
AT, on my Hilsen:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2421/3923293131_0d96604b1c_b.jpg

The 127.5mm Shimano BB fit well when doing a triple chainring test
fit, but required a few mm's of drive-side spacers for clearance.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT

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[RBW] Re: Daruma Bolt Question

2010-08-03 Thread John McMurry
On Aug 3, 2:01 pm, Eric Norris  wrote:
> Wondering if anybody else has had this problem with the "daruma" fork crown 
> bolt that comes with some Honjo fenders.
>
> Basically, the daruma includes a rubber washer that seals against the bottom 
> of the fork crown; a metal fender washer > sits between the rubber washer 
> and the fender.  After I installed the fenders and got in some miles in the 
> rain, I noticed> that the rubber washer was sealing the bottom of the 
> fork crown and preventing water that got in there from draining out.  In > 
> fact, the water was migrating upward (the only way it could go, really) and 
> escaping around the stem.

Yeah, this can be a problem with the daruma setup.  I've noticed
increased condensation and surface rust inside the steer tube of bikes
that use this setup (I've since cleaned them thoroughly, sprayed a
rust preventative in the tube, and inspect annually).  Though, I do
think that you have the parts arranged incorrectly, which would
exasperate this issue.

>From the fender crown downward, the metal fender washer should be
installed, then the rubber washer, then the fender.  The metal washer
doesn't provide a water tight seal, and therefore allows water/sweat
to drain.

Peter White has an example photo on his website:

http://peterwhitecycles.com/images/products/Accessories/bertffcb.jpg

John McMurry
Burlington, VT

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[RBW] Re: Suntor RD Query

2010-01-26 Thread John McMurry
On Jan 26, 11:28 am, GeorgeS  wrote:
> I have a Suntor Crane GS and a Suntor Cyclone.  Will either of these
> work with a modern 9-speed cassette?  I'm sure they will handle the
> tooth differential but it's the lateral throw that I'm concerned
> about.

They'll both work OK if you friction shift.

If not, you'd need to fabricate an in-line adjuster for the Cyclone to
get it to work.

Not sure about the Crane.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT

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[RBW] Re: 9speed to 8 speed cassettes

2010-02-02 Thread John McMurry
On Feb 1, 4:47 pm, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> You can't just "leave off the smallest" sprocket.  You need a first
> position sprocket, i.e., a sprocket with a spacer built in; removing it
> and leaving the 2nd position sprocket hanging in the wind won't do it.

I've taken off the small sprocket on a 9-speed Sram, filled the void
with spacers and it has worked beautifully.

Dura Ace downtube shifts between 8-speed XTR and 8-of-9 Sram are very
crisp.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT

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[RBW] Re: XO-1 to Atlantis

2010-02-09 Thread John McMurry
On Feb 8, 3:33 pm, Mitch Browne  wrote:
> ... the adjusting bolt on the XO-1 DiaCompe BRS300
> front brake is missing the adjusting screw so the adjustment can only
> be made at the pinch bolt. I did a quick google search and it doesn't
> appear a replacement is readily available. Is there an alternative
> part I should think about.

Go to your LBS and ask for a cable adjuster bolt (not split) with nut.

Clamp in vise, file off an edge, and slip it in the caliper.  Voila!

John McMurry
Burlington, VT

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[RBW] Re: front bag with bar-end shifters?

2010-04-08 Thread John McMurry
On Apr 4, 2:09 pm, Earl Grey  wrote:

> I am trying to decide between an Acorn on a Nitto Mini, and
> the new Barsack on it's special support., I would at least sometimes
> carry a medium DSLR in the bag (using a padded insert).

If I planned to often carry an expensive, relatively heavy, somewhat
fragile device, I'd consider a handlebar bag that doesn't sit on a
rack (Riv's Barsack, Acorn's handlebar bag, etc).  While it may not be
theoretically optimal for handling, the protection afforded through
suspended fabric would outweigh the theoretical negative handling
consequence.  For me, IMO, YMMV, and all those other qualifiers.

In other words, bag contents that sit on racks tend to get bounced
around a lot.

Defining what "at least sometimes" means to you, in addition to
assessing your priorities (handling optimization, camera protection,
aesthetics, ...) should help you decide which compromise to choose.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT

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[RBW] Re: 650B market is plenty alive

2010-05-12 Thread John McMurry
On May 12, 1:33 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
wrote:
> The discussion about the new Pacenti 650B tires momentarily ventured
> into commentary on "the future of 650B". I thought this was worth a
> discussion of its own.

It can be interesting to try to predict the future.

> Two or three years ago we had 650B bikes at Hiawatha Cyclery from at
> least three manufacturers: Rivendell, Kogswell, and Rawland. Now
> Rivendell does 650B only on smaller sizes of certain models,

Not true: Betty Foys’ and Yves Gomez’ are 650b specific.  Also, (and I
know Jim didn't say this) just because Rivendell tends to size the
wheel to the size of the frame on other models doesn't mean Rivendell
is losing interest in any particular wheel size.

> Kogswell
> seems to be on an indefinite hiatus,

That has little to do with 650b.  As I understand it, Longleaf Cycles
plans to pickup that torch.

> and Rawland's new models have
> been displayed at various venues with 622 and 559 wheels (with disc
> brakes, 650B will still be an option).

As far as I know and as advertised on their website, Rawland's frames
are 650b specific.  Showing the frame's versatility with 622 and 559mm
wheelsets at venues may be just that.

> To the extent that 650B has gone mainstream, it is by and large in the
> 27.5" wheel size for mountain bikes. It seems like new disc-specific
> rim and fat-knobby tire options are proliferating, but the 650B rim
> and tire options for road bikes have not expanded much, if at all,
> since I first read about 650B in the Rivendell Reader.

Huh?!  That must have been a very, very recent issue.  650b road
options have blossomed since the Riv Reader first mentioned 650b.

> There are some
> small importers/manufacturers like Jan Heine with the Gran Bois and
> now Pacenti with his Pari-Moto, but they have yet to get their tires
> into the QBP catalog or on any Treks. I was pleasantly surprised to
> see another of my mainstream distributors pick up some 650B stuff, but
> again, it was mostly of the MTB variety.

Do small market products have to go mainstream or corporate in order
to maintain?

> I'm not sure Rivendell and a few custom framebuilders can sell enough
> 650B bikes to support much expansion, or even maintain current levels
> of the 650B rim/tire selection and availability. Unless the 650B size
> gets picked up by Trek or some other major player, I think its future
> will be at best as a niche item with limited selection and spotty
> availability.

It appears that some folks feel that for a product to continue to be
produced, that it must have exponential sales numbers from year to
year.  While my economics classes are far, far behind me; I just don’t
see that as a necessity.

> I'd encourage 650B bike owners and aficionados to
> stockpile an extra set of rims and a couple sets of favorite tires,
> just in case.

That is a nice suggestion, but it also sparks unwarranted fear.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT

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[RBW] Re: 650B market is plenty alive

2010-05-12 Thread John McMurry
On May 12, 12:46 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
 wrote:
>> "Huh?!  That must have been a very, very recent issue.  650b road
>> options have blossomed since the Riv Reader first mentioned 650b."
>
> No this was several years ago, when the Saluki/Wilbury/Glorius/Bleriot
> 650B bikes were first being discussed.

There are several scattered years between those frame discussions.  In
my recollection, the Readers started seriously discussing 650b about 6
or 7 years ago.

> Grant mentioned several 650B
> tires apparently available at the time that I have never actually seen
> in person (under the brands Michelin, Mitsuboshi, etc).

About 6 years ago, this is what was generally available:

Schwalbe HS 159,
Mitsuboshi Trimline,
Panaracer Col de la Vie and,
Michelin Megamium.

> Our 650B stock
> and sales are limited to the same tires that Riv sells now, all of
> which have been around for several years (CdlV, NS/MF, FR, a couple
> Schwalbes). All have limited distribution channels and often spotty
> availability. I hear the GB tires are wonderful, but the combination
> of high price, low margin, and even lower sales volume means that it's
> not something I plan to stock.

Where our differences lie is probably due to the seats we sit in.  As
a consumer, I needn't worry about stocking, margins, and volume,
whereas as a merchant, I would.

> I'm hopeful that the Pacenti tire will
> be more feasible for me to have in stock (i.e. available through QBP),
> but I haven't laid my hands on any yet.

I just got word my LBS's have them in hand.  I hope to buy a pair this
week.  I'd guess your shipment is near.

> I'm not sure I'd describe this
> as a set of options that has "blossomed".

No?  Here are the 584mm road tires consumers have available now:

Schwalbe HS 159,
Schwalbe Marathon,
Panaracer Col de la Vie,
Sunlite Street Tire,
Panaracer Nifty Swifty,
Panaracer Maxy Fasty,
Panaracer Fatty Rumpkin,
Panaracer/SOMA New Xpress,
Grand Bois Cypres,
Grand Bois Ourson,
Grand Bois Hetre,
Pacenti Pari-Moto,
Nokian A10.

I'd think that quantitatively, that qualifies near a blossom.

> Seems to me that there is a
> very small handful of people/companies (Grant, Jan, VO) who could
> shift priorities in life, and the 650B supply would quickly get pretty
> thin.

Sure, Riv, Grand Bois, VO, Schwalbe, Pacenti, Panaracer, and
Continental could all simultaneously shift priorities, but that
doesn't change the demand.  I'd bet somebody would seize that
opportunity.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT

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[RBW] Re: 650B market is plenty alive

2010-05-12 Thread John McMurry
On May 12, 2:05 pm, JoelMatthews  wrote:
> > No?  Here are the 584mm road tires consumers have available now:
>
> To Jim's point, I recently was in the market for a 40 hole 650b rim.
> I did not find any current makes.  

According to the original post, Jim's point is that the future of 650b
is uncertain due to his recent observations.  That you can't find a 40-
hole, 650b rim is an entirely different point.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT

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[RBW] Re: Bleriot/Hetres

2010-05-14 Thread John McMurry
On May 14, 10:37 am, "Allingham II, Thomas J"
 wrote:
> Does anyone know if the Bleriot will comfortably fit Hetres with fenders?  

They'll fit, but not with room to spare.

I run Honjo 45mm fenders with the Hetres on a Saluki/AHH  (same
clearance of Bleriot) and it works fine for the mixed terrain riding I
do.  That said, another 3mm of clearance would be nice.  If clearance
is a serious concern, the Pari-Moto may be a good alternative.

Another issue of particular concern to the Tektro R556 (Silver)
brakes: they will provide enough clearance while riding such a large
tire/fender combo, though when the Q/R is opened for wheel removal,
the fender will interfere with the caliper arm opening fully and so
getting an inflated tire out will no longer be an option.  Most
centerpull brakes alleviate that issue.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/thingsofdotnature/4537857930/

John McMurry
Burlington, VT

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[RBW] Re: Mudflaps - inside fender or outside fender?

2010-06-10 Thread John McMurry
On Jun 10, 12:00 am, Justin August  wrote:
> Simple question for once!
>
> Which is more functional (if either)?

It's a wash.  Outside mounting allows a wider flap, theoretically
stopping more of the splash when hitting puddles.
Inside mounting follows the tire radius, reducing the trajectory of a
splash.

> Which is more "classic" (as done in the past)?

Leather flaps look more "classic", but supposedly weren't used much in
the past.  More typical were thinner, rubber mudflaps, mounted inside
the fender from what I have seen and read.

> Which is preferable?

For a thick, leather mudflap such as the VO; I think you'll be better
off mounting it on the outside of the fender.  The thick, leather
ridge would accumulate debris and would also lessen tire/fender
clearance when mounted inside the fender.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT

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[RBW] Re: Tire Wear and Tear

2009-04-23 Thread John McMurry

On Apr 22, 12:41 am, awilliams53  wrote:
> How many miles should be expected from a set of tires?
>
> I'm riding on Panaracer Col De La Vie 650B Randonee tires with about
> 3,000 miles on them, and picked up my first flat today.   Fixing the
> thing gave me the opportunity to inspect them more closely than usual
> (while sitting by the side of the road) and I noticed that the tread
> was work in places and some small cracks were evident.
>
> What has been others' experience?

I have about 5,000 miles on a pair of Col De la Vies and the rear is
nearing replacement in the next 1-2K.

I'll continue to ride them until they start flatting more frequently
or if I feel them unsafe at any point..  At that time, I'll just
rotate the front to the rear, add a new front, and be good for another
4-7K.

I've flatted only two times with these tires in about 5,000 miles and
I ride them very hard.  One was due to under-inflation on a recently-
graded, gravel road on a 35mph descent.  The other was a roofing
nail.  Neither were the tire's fault.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT
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[RBW] Re: leather saddle rain cover

2009-05-05 Thread John McMurry

On May 5, 9:59 am, Will  wrote:
> Hi all. This image of my Rambouillet (http://tinyurl.com/cnz6os) shows
> a "Saddle Bonnet for B17" (this one:http://tinyurl.com/c7rnrf) that I
> used for 8 hours of riding in Sunday's rain. After the ride, about 1/3
> of the surface area of the saddle--the outer edges--was soaked; middle
> 2/3 was dry. Wondering if others have found more effective solutions.
> How do you like the Velox cover? (http://tinyurl.com/c49mxw). I know,
> nothing works as well as a plastic bag and duct tape -- just looking
> for something slightly more elegant. Thx.

I use my butt as a saddle cover when I ride in the rain.

Works pretty well for me, as my B-17s have quite a few very wet miles
on them.

Obenauf's every 6 months or so helps too, I think.

YMMV

John McMurry
Burlington, VT
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[RBW] Re: Bicycle Coffee Drinkers (also Klean Kanteen)

2009-05-18 Thread John McMurry


On May 17, 6:14 pm, d2mini  wrote:
> This is the best one i've found.
> Keeps your coffee HO! for hours.
> The flip top is uber secure and can be operated one 
> handed.http://www.amazon.com/Thermos-Nissan-Stainless-Backpack- 
> Bottle/dp/B00...
>

I can attest: that mug keeps liquids incredibly hot from 7am to 3pm,
while exposed on a bicycle frame in sub-zero temperatures.

Though I don't use the mug often because I like to drink coffee within
the first hour of making it.  That mug keeps it too hot to drink for
quite a while.

Instead, I often prefer a single walled stainless Kleen Kanteen.  It
isn't as convenient to sip, or to handle, but works better overall for
my needs.

Also, on the older models at least, there isn't any plastic in contact
with the liquid contents.  Concerns for leaching aside: plastics and
rubber parts get real gross, real quick, and are a PITA to clean on
coffee mugs; including the one referenced above.

But if you do really need your coffee to be boiling hot for hours and
want to carry it on your bicycle and have easy access to drink from
it, on the go; that particular Nissan thermos would be hard to beat.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT



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[RBW] Re: new front racks?

2009-06-04 Thread John McMurry

On Jun 3, 11:16 am, Seth Vidal  wrote:
> What is this I'm seeing about new front racks?
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/25671...@n02/3590671483/in/pool-rivendell
>
> and
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/25671...@n02/3591479728/in/pool-rivendell

If only Nitto would integrate some lateral triangulation in their
racks; they'd be stronger, lighter, and better looking than other
racks on the market.  Until then, they've got the looks.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT
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[RBW] 650B -Grand Bois Cypres tire

2009-06-11 Thread John McMurry

A little over a year ago, I made a few statements comparing tires
based on theory.  I was wrong.

http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch/msg/ca91f41f70f6d57a

I now have a few hundred miles on a pair of 584X32mm (actual 30mm)
Grand Bois Cypres tires (same wheels, bicycle, etc.) and can
positively say, with back to back comparison,  that there is a
noticeable difference in feel between the similar Maxy Fasty tires.

The most accurate comparison I can provide is:  The Maxy Fasty's feel
like riding over suede whereas the Cypres' feel like riding over
velvet.

Of course, the Cypres' lighter casing and thinner tread is a trade off
for durability.  That analysis is for each rider to determine on their
own.  For me, that means riding the MF's for utility, errands,
commuting, and shorter rides; and saving the Cypres for my longer,
weekend rides.

Just wanted to set the record straight and acknowledge my previous
error.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT


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[RBW] Re: Broken Fender

2009-06-24 Thread John McMurry

On Jun 23, 7:56 pm, MichaelH  wrote:
> I noticed some unusual rattling from my rear Honjo fender today, and a
> close inspection revealed a crack at the seat stay bridge attachment.

One tricky thing with installing metal fenders is getting them where
you want them without putting stress on the fender.  Even when you
have the fender a perfect circumferance and the holes drilled in the
perfect locations; tightening of the hardware at the stay ends can
twist the fender and bow the stays.  To correct the bowing stays,
you'll need to bend each side a few inches from the clamp so the stay
moves within the clamp (after loosening) without binding.
Additionally, when tightening the clamp, you need to hold the clamp in
place while tightening, or it will twist the drive side stay upwards
and the other stay downwards, stressing the fender.  This may be the
one advantage of using the daruma-type bolts for stay attachment.

That said, your fender failure may have nothing to do with that at
all.  Fender reinforcements on that section were popular back in the
day, and are currently on JP Weigle's customs:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/49353...@n00/3585634727/

You could probably repair your fender using a similar approach.  Just
be sure to drill a small hole at each end of the crack before doing
so.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT
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[RBW] Re: Fender installation help

2009-07-02 Thread John McMurry



On Jul 2, 3:31 pm, hihi  wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I'm installing Berthoud stainless fenders on my Atlantis with 26 x 1.5
> inch wheels.  It looks like the supplied Daruma bolt 
> (http://www.renehersestore.com/servlet/the-177/Berthoud-Daruma-Bolt/Detail)
> for attaching the front fender is going to be a bit short.  I'd rather
> not use an L-bracket so I'm trying to come up with novel solutions.
> Does anyone have any ideas that have worked for them?
>
> I did find this:  http://www.mcmaster.com/#3796k11/=2kngsn

If you have an extra cantilever pad holder, that worked well for me.
It may still be too short for Atlantis clearance, but worth a shot.

Otherwise, it seems like that mcmaster part should work well.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT
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[RBW] Re: Mixte Frames to Riv-up?

2009-09-02 Thread John McMurry

On Sep 2, 1:19 pm, Doug Van Cleve  wrote:
> Trek also made a mixte that had the single "top tube" and then center stays
> back to the dropouts.  Something else to look for, even if you forgo the
> single top tube, is for the brakes to be on the center stay rather than up
> top.  It gives MUCH better cable routing...

That'd be the 1984 Trek 420L.

Built one for my S.O. w/high rise stem, dove bars, 8-speed IG, 700c
paselas, fenders, front basket, etc.  It's a great bike for her: fun/
easy to use, comfortable, and surprisingly lightweight.  She loves
it.

Near Detroit by chance?

http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/bik/1312451846.html

John McMurry
Burlington, VT
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[RBW] Re: Destroyed my Honjo hammered fender tonite

2008-09-08 Thread John McMurry

On Sep 5, 12:23 pm, Esteban <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The metal fenders are indeed difficult to install - but isn't that the
> fun of it?

Heck no, not for me.

> Safety is an issue, of course - but there are all kinds of things that
> can go wrong.  A little care goes a long way.

I'm not sure I understand.  A little care towards what?  I surely
don't aim for objects in the road.

My point wasn't to discourage use of fenders nor to insinuate that one
kind was safer than the other.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT
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[RBW] Re: Good Tail Light for Nitto Rear Rack?

2008-09-09 Thread John McMurry

On Sep 9, 12:26 pm, Rick Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Or, does anyone know of another source that has these tail lights in
> stock:http://www.jitensha.com/eng/taillamps05.htmlthey're pictured
> on (I think) John's Hiluki.

I don't know of a source other than Jitensha, though do know that
Cateye makes them.

They also come as standard equipment on the Novara Fusion.

I've got a couple gripes about it though, that you should be aware of
before buying.

1. The batteries are a type E, or something similar. Though, I've just
replaced them after 4-5 months of daily use, which isn't too bad.

2. The light makes a slight spring rattle sound when moved. I assume
it's part of the motion-sensitive switch. I can't hear it at all when
riding, but it's there when I'm not.

3. There's no manual switch to prevent the light from coming on when
your bike is parked in your shed and you bump anything near it.
(Though, a switch would introduce another entryway for water and my
batteries only recently needed replacement, so this isn't too big an
issue.)

So, would I buy another? Probably. It's pretty nice to not worry about
if it's on or not. The battery lasts a good long time too and the
whole unit is pretty lightweight. It's not the brightest light in the
world, but acts as a secondary taillight to my PB Superflash attached
to the back of my helmet.  In fact, I just noticed this morning, after
my commute, that my Superflash batteries need a re-charge and so was
glad to have this light as a backup.

I also think it looks a lot nicer than the other fender taillamps
currently on the market.

Here's a picture:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/thingsofdotnature/2389403243/

John McMurry
Burlington, VT




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[RBW] Re: Impeding Ram Reincarnation!

2008-11-25 Thread John McMurry

> On Mon, Nov 24, 2008 at 1:12 PM, Joe Szokoli <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> > Can you show me something like this in steel??
>
> >http://www.cyclingnews.com/newsphotos.php?id=/photos/2008/news/nov08/...

On Nov 24, 4:05 pm, "tarik saleh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Sure,
>
> http://greenblatt.smugmug.com/gallery/4369627_VBaPB#367598179_7xqDb-X...
> Is that similar enough?

It should be known that the fork in that photo was intentionally bent
prior to this failure, to decrease the bicycle's trail.

One astute reader in the Kogswell thread asked if the rake was added
by bending the blades over a mandrel, using the steertube as a lever.
Though, the actual procedure was never disclosed.

http://sports.groups.yahoo.com/group/KOG/message/19749

It was also a retrofitted 1" steertube in a shimmed headtube designed
for a 1 1/8" steertube.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT



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[RBW] Re: Shifter Observation for all of you Techies

2008-12-01 Thread John McMurry

On Dec 1, 12:12 am, Ray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> As some of you may recall, I was having the worst auto-shifting
> problem with the Shimano bar-end shifters on my Canti-Rom.  i tried
> all of the usual fixes, including new cables, fine adjustments to the
> derailer, etc., but the problem persisted...

FWIW, my last bike that had indexed bar-end shifters was always in
need of adjustment, but only after an annual overhaul.

Turned out that I greased the threads on the DT adjuster barrel/cable
stop (when I shouldn't have) and so whenever I turned my handlebars,
the SIS cable housing would spin the barrel out of adjustment.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT
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[RBW] Re: 50 Miles on the Quickbeam today - thoughts on 40x18

2008-12-08 Thread John McMurry

On Dec 8, 11:49 am, Patrick in VT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> What kind of cadence do you have to spin to sustain a moderate pace,
> say 15mph, with a 60 inch gear?

A cadence in the mid-80's would get you to that speed, in a 60-inch
gear.

On our ride yesterday I was spinning the jb-welded-fixed-grocery-
getter at 100rpm just to keep up with you guys at that pace (52"
gear).

I wishing for a set of foot pegs and a sprung saddle half the time.

> Personally, intense spinning wears me
> out much, much faster than powering up hills.

Yep, me too.  If it weren't for Cliff St. I face every morning, I'd
raise the gearing quite a bit on that bike.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT
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[RBW] Re: Nekkid Sam Hillborne Photos Posted

2008-12-18 Thread John McMurry



On Dec 18, 2:18 am, CycloFiend  wrote:
> on 12/17/08 10:36 AM, Horace at max...@sdf.lonestar.org wrote:
>
> > Does the AHH also have a threaded mount under the seatstay bridge for
> > fenders? How about under the fork crown?
>
> Also, for the crown, I think the daruma-style crown bolt is the only way to
> seat a fender without using the bracket.

Or a threaded plate attached to the underside of the steer tube/fork
crown.

http://jitensha.com/eng/frame_allrnforkdetl.html

John McMurry
Burlington, VT
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[RBW] Re: AHH rear eyelets

2008-12-22 Thread John McMurry

On Dec 22, 12:07 pm, Greenwayrider  wrote:
> Does anyone know why my AHH only has one rear dropout eyelet? Just
> curious.
> Thanks for any replies.

Most that I've seen have two (per side), like my AHH, and I guess some
have only one.

It isn't a big deal though.  You can easily mount both fenders and
rack on just one set of eyelets.

A run of different dropouts perhaps?

John McMurry
Burlington, VT



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[RBW] WTT: 650b 36h Synergy or 32h Blunt for 32h Synergy

2008-12-23 Thread John McMurry
I have a new, 36-hole Velocity Synergy, non O/C, and
I have a new, 32-hole Velocity Blunt, non O/C, but I need a

new, 32-hole Velocity Synergy, non O/C. All 650b (or 584mm) sized.

I'd like to trade either rim, straight up.

I also have a new, 36-hole Mavic A719, 700c rim that I'd be happy to trade.

offlist, of course.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT

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[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne geometry is up at RBW site!

2008-12-23 Thread John McMurry

On Dec 23, 3:15 pm, "David Faller"  wrote:
> Exactly!  Talk about drinking the Kool Aid; the consumers all bought into the 
> "differences as improvements", when, in fact, the differences are only 
> differences. > Most threadless stems are just ugly.   I suppose some are a 
> tad lighter, but this was never the reason for the new design.  
>
> I'm certainly not saying there isn't a place for threadless systems, but to 
> declare them as any sort of a wholesale improvement is fantasy.

Well, I wouldn't say that.

I prefer the look and easy height adjustments of quill stems, but they
do have their drawbacks.

How's your quill stem look when you pull it out every year for
greasing?

Mine's always had scratches around the perimeter from it's rotation in
the headset.  The steer tube has always been a tad rusty colored
too.   That ain't so good.

And if you don't pull it out every year?  Good luck getting it out (if
you rode it at all that year).

> And what's all this about threadless being somehow stronger?  Any of you 
> snapped off a steerer at the stem lately?

A 1 1/8" steel steer tube is less likely to break or bend than an 1"
aluminum rod with a hole drilled through it.

Quill stems aren't a perfect solution, but they're good enough for me.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT



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[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne geometry is up at RBW site!

2008-12-23 Thread John McMurry

On Dec 23, 6:50 pm, "PATRICK MOORE"  wrote:
> On Tue, Dec 23, 2008 at 2:04 PM, John McMurry  wrote:
>
> > How's your quill stem look when you pull it out every year for
> > greasing?
>
> > [snippo]
>
> > And if you don't pull it out every year?  Good luck getting it out (if
> > you rode it at all that year).
>
> Huh? ***HUH* I've pulled quills out of steerers where they had slumbered
> for, LO!, these many, many years, and never, **EVER**, had a stuck one.
>
> Pull it out *every year for greasing*?
>
> Blpfpht  ppffft  pop! crackle! Fwooom! That doesn't compute.
>
> Patrick "don't regrease hubs, bb, headsets yearly either" Moore, who has had
> no problems with his lack of care, and yes, he does ride his bikes.

Well, here in the Northeast, that doesn't fly.

If you ride in the rain, in the snow, in the mud, or dirt around here
for several thousand a year, annual maintenance is necessary; unless
you're willing to dispose of these parts a couple years later.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT
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[RBW] Re: Stems, steer tubes, threads and lack thereof

2008-12-23 Thread John McMurry

On Dec 23, 8:18 pm, Atlantean 
wrote:
> I removed an Albatross bar from my Atlantis even though I liked it a
> lot, simply because I could not get it low enough!

A stem like this stem ought to help that situation:

http://www.businesscycles.com/tstem-nitto.htm

>  Imagine that! It
> would have been easy with a threadless fork.

How would've it been easier to lower the bars with a threadless fork?

> Actually, I have
> considered getting a custom fork for that bike, and painting it to
> match the head tube.

That stem, while not exactly cheap, is a whole lot cheaper than a
custom fork, if the purpose is to get the bars low.

Though, if that's the purpose, I bet there's a better bar for your
ride.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT

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[RBW] Re: Stems, steer tubes, threads and lack thereof

2008-12-24 Thread John McMurry

On Dec 24, 1:06 am, Atlantean 
wrote:
> I'm not a fan of the 7 shaped stem, and I really really don't like the
> looks of track stems. A track stem and an Albatross bar? I don't think
> so.

In all seriousness, and in no way bruskly; if you don't like 7-shaped
stems and you don't like stems with even less rise (track stems), you
must be using a riser stem...right?

And so, if you have a problem with getting the bars down low enough,
the problem isn't with the type of steertube you have: I think it's
your aesthetic choices determining how high your bars are.

That said, I find conveniences to both setups.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT
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[RBW] Re: fenders off road?

2009-01-14 Thread John McMurry

On Jan 14, 12:47 am, "J L"  wrote:
> My Saluki has been seeing more action on the trails than the pavement,
> enough so that I am considering some minor setup changes to better function
> on the trails. The bikes is currently setup as a rack laden commuter. Is
> there any disadvantage to metal fenders in this situation?  Any other setup
> tips?

That depends on:

How technical the trails are that you're riding, and;

What percentage of riding time the Saluki is actually off-road.

The primary concern of using fenders on off-road trails is being
thrown over the bars when a stick catches your fender stays or an
object funnels up into the fork crown.

Secondary concerns are bending/breaking the fenders on drops, rattling
noise from twigs/stones making their way through and mud piling up in
the fender and dragging on your tire.

That said, I ride my fendered Saluki on as many jeep trails that my
friends and I can find here in Vermont.  But, if I mostly rode my
Saluki on technical, singletrack trails, I'd remove the fenders,
provided I had another nice bike with fenders on it.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT


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[RBW] Re: fenders off road?

2009-01-15 Thread John McMurry

On Jan 14, 11:06 pm, "David Estes"  wrote:
> I rode my Bleriot everywhere w/ Honjos, no 
> problemo...http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/1562380216/in/set-721576024...

Thanks for posting that picture.

While that looks like a beautiful and very fun place to bicycle,  in
the NE, that's considered a jeep road, not really a trail.

Something like this is what I was talking about:

http://picasaweb.google.com/johnmcmurry/Singletrack#5291582034456142610

So, when I recommend taking fenders off a bike that sees more trail
than road, these are the types of trails I'm talking about.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT
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[RBW] Re: Seeking advice on 650b wheel replacement and internally geared hubs

2009-01-21 Thread John McMurry

On Jan 20, 8:57 pm, Tyler  wrote:
> I bought a used Bleriot some time ago that came with wheels made with
> Sunrim CR-18 rims and they're unquestionably from the oversized
> batch.  

You should contact the shop you bought those rims from.  I've heard a
rumor that Sun is addressing these PR issues.

>snip<

> Alternatively, I'm kicking around the idea of building a rear wheel
> around an Alfine internally geared hub;...

Alfine IG hubs are really nice hubs, as far as IG hubs go.  IG hubs
benefit from very convenient shifting in stop/go traffic and have very
simple adjustments to keep it shifting nice.

There are a few tradeoffs too, as Jim T. pointed out.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT


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[RBW] Velocity dicontinuing 650b rim

2009-01-21 Thread John McMurry
For future wheel building projects, don't count on a secure source for the
650b 32-hole, Synergy, non-O/C rim.
Been there; done that.  Velocity is discontinuing them.

FYI

John McMurry
Burlington, VT

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[RBW] Re: Velocity dicontinuing 650b rim

2009-01-21 Thread John McMurry

On Jan 21, 4:18 pm, Gino Zahnd  wrote:
> This from the 650B list:
>
> On Wed, Jan 21, 2009 at 12:55 PM, Longleaf Bicycles
>
>  wrote:
> > This isn't true.  QBP no longer stocks the rim, likely because they don't
> > have the Bleriot anymore.  Velocity isn't going to stop making the rim,
> > though they always seem to be in short supply of this one.  There on some
> > headed to the US right now.


Yes, it was a false alarm.

After trying to source this rim from my usual vendors for several
weeks, I was repeatedly told they were 'discontinued'.

Apparently, I was given bad information.

Sorry to pass it along.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT




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[RBW] Re: Velocity continuing 650b rim production...Yay!

2009-01-22 Thread John McMurry

On Jan 22, 10:23 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
 wrote:
> This was what Velocity told me:
> "That is not true at all. QBP is not carrying the 650 synergy anymore
> but
> there is no way we are gonna stop making them."

Yes.  Again, to all of you who I freaked out with this false alarm, my
sincere apologies.

It's pretty clear that Velocity will continue to make 650b rims for
now.

It's also pretty clear that my sources of information need to be
improved.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT


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[RBW] Re: Winter Riding Tips...Best Tires for considerable snow?

2009-01-30 Thread John McMurry

On Jan 30, 11:01 am, Sean Whelan  wrote:
> I was never a mountain biker, so most of my attempts to ride in the snow 
> usually end up either with me staring up at the sky from a cold an painful 
> landing on the street, or teetering on the verge of collapse at less than 5 
> mph.
>
> What do you folks do?
>
> What tires at what pressure?

IMO, there is no winter tire that excels in all conditions.  I find
the Nokian Mount & Ground tires to be generally very good winter tires
for most winter conditions that I cycle in.  They're sized  559x45mm
and I run them between 35-45psi, depending on conditions.  They
perform very well when temps are very low (15F to -25F), with up to a
4" snow layer, dodging (and hitting) snow cookies, the occasional
sidewalk detour (when conditions warrant), and on light snow covered
ice.  In a few other conditions, they're overkill: so smaller tread
blocks, a narrower profile, and less studs would perform better.

When snow is sticky, thickly rutted, and has a slimy base, (temps from
20F to 35F on an unplowed, paved surface) I prefer a slightly narrower
tire at a higher pressure and less and/or negative tread.  The wider
tires I've used (including the Mount and Grounds) tend to half float,
half sink in that stuff and your wheels constantly drift.
Additionally, the snow packs up into the tread, making pedaling much
more difficult, and traction minimal.  These tires excel at most other
conditions though, and so, I'll continue to use them on my commuter.

I've also had the following experiences riding these tires in the
winter:

Panaracer Pasela 622x37mm and found them to be a great winter tire for
when roads are better maintained, but no studs meant cornering was
tricky and sometimes dangerous.  Not so great getting up steep, icy
roads.

Continental Town & Country 559x57mm and really liked that they didn't
pack full of snow and provided pretty good traction, but again, were
unstudded and found they floated a bit too much in the loose stuff.

Nokian A10 584x36mm and find them excellent tires on most winter
rides.  They're better than the Mount & Grounds when roads have been
plowed, they're worse when AOT is on strike.

Regarding winter bicycle riding, the best advice I can give if you're
having problems getting going is to: keep pedaling.

Momentum will get you through most everything, except corners.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT






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[RBW] Re: Phil Wood Bottom Bracket

2009-02-06 Thread John McMurry

Peter White has said before that premature failure of a Phil bottom
bracket is due to the bottom bracket shell threads not being aligned.

Here's an excerpt from one of these discussions:

"For a Phil Wood BB to last, the frame's BB threads must be chased
with a
tool that indexes one side of the shell with the other so that the
threads on each side share a common axis. Campagnolo and a few other
companies make tooling that, when used properly, ensures that the
threading is correct, and then, and only then, will you get the full
life of the Phil Wood bearings."

from here:

http://search.bikelist.org/getmsg.asp?Filename=touring.10709.0545.eml

Makes sense to me.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT
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[RBW] Re: Sackville bags: how necessary, and for what uses?

2009-02-06 Thread John McMurry

On Feb 6, 11:32 am, pcooley  wrote:
> I just took a look at them.  I still like the tubular shape of the
> Carradices.  I bought the Hoss when it came out and found that it
> wouldn't ride on the top of my Nitto expedition rear rack.  That
> little bar that sticks up on the front of the rack stuck right up
> through the bottom of the Hoss.

I appears that's not an issue on Sackville bags:

http://www.rivbike.com/images/products/full/0000/2652/20-133c.jpg

John McMurry
Burlington, VT


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[RBW] Re: 650b Rim Woes

2011-07-27 Thread John McMurry
On Jul 26, 11:10 am, Montclair BobbyB 
wrote:
> I feel your pain, Larry... I had fit problems with my ZAC 19s, and
> struggled to find reasonably-priced, good 650B wheels... it was a big
> hassle (going back 2-3 years) and I finally gave up. And I'm still not
> entirely convinced I'd build any wheels other than 26 or 700c, based
> on my experience.

It's a huge bummer that the 584mm CR-18 rim and ZAC 19 weren't more
precisely made.  I think more than a few people were on the receiving
end of a costly and frustrating, out-of-spec manufacturing issue that
has yet to be resolved.  Unfortunately, if your first 650B endeavor
involved these products, it may have been your last.  However, there
are quite a few more rims available that work really well.

> The industry seems to have reacted too slowly (in
> my opinion) to the demand for 650B, but hopefully things are finally
> starting to look better. Maybe I need to give it another chance...
> I've got a project bike that screams for a pair of Grand Bois
> Hetres

While it would be nice if they fixed the issue with the CR-18, there's
a pretty good selection of mid-to-high quality 650B rims and tires on
the market now.  In thousands of miles, I've had great luck with
Velocity rims (Synergy and Aerohead) while using Nifty Swifty's, Maxy
Fasty's, Col de la Vie's, Cypre's, Pari Moto's, Hetre's, Marathon's,
and studded Nokian A10's.  Others on the internet praise the following
rims: Grand Bois, VO, Dyads and Twin Hollows.

Best of luck in any future builds,
John



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[RBW] Re: Tires for D2R2? Hetre, Fatty Rumpkin, or Col de la Vie?

2011-08-23 Thread John McMurry
On Aug 21, 12:11 pm, Patrick in VT  wrote:
> On Aug 20, 12:41 pm, Michael Farrell  wrote:
>
> > Any suggestions on tires (specifically 650b) for next weekend's d2r2?
> > Thanks, Mike
>
> any would be fine.  i've run Hetres, Pari-Motos and Parigi Roubaix
> (700x28) at D2R2.  all were great on that course, but i sure
> appreciated the wider footprint of the Hetre and slightly smaller Pari-
> Moto on some of the high speed dirt road descents.

I've also run Hetres, Pari-Motos, as well as Col de Vies at D2R2.

I agree w/Patrick - it's a toss up between the Pari-Motos and the
Hetres.  If the course is choppier than normal, I'd recommend the
Hetre. There are sections where you'll want one over the other, but
for the most part, depending on conditions, I'd give the nod to the
Pari-Motos.  You can only descend so much faster than others on
narrow, rocky, pot-holed, water-bottle-strewn roads before scaring the
skinny-tired cyclists as you pass.

Have fun out there,
John

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[RBW] Re: 650B Winter Devils: What's Yer Tire?

2011-09-20 Thread John McMurry
On Sep 19, 7:36 pm, Liesl  wrote:
> Looking for a non-studded 35-40mm 650B tire with tread that will work
> a) in snow, and b)  on a Saluki/Hilson/Foy/Sam.  Any suggestions?

Before I rode studded tires, I've had good luck with 35-37mm Paselas
on my 700c bikes.  So, I'd guess the B-Lines would be similarly
acceptable, especially considering your route.  I'd also think the
Fatty Rumpkin would be decent due to it's inverted tread, however have
no experience with that tire.

I ride Marathon's in the shoulder seasons and they're pretty good
too.  But if you're seriously averse to heavy tires, I'd try the above
recommendations first.

John
Burlington, VT

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