date:20240926

Understoodgreat the Raleigh is going to your Dad...and yeah...get those 
component locks. It's good that your bike locker is not as out-of-the-way 
as I first thought.

Also show us some pictures of your new Homer! 


On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 12:12:40 AM UTC-5 anthony...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Thanks everyone, I've been reading all the responses and decided to use it 
> as a commuter even though I can see using a beater as a very safe option. 
> It's hard to describe the room, but there are big openings and people right 
> outside of them studying at all hours of the day. I think it would be 
> really hard to run one of those battery-powered angle grinders without 
> someone peeking in and realizing what's happening, so I'm thinking that 
> it'll be okay. I'm looking around at different component lock mechanisms 
> since it seems like a good thing to have. 
>
> Also, I wanted to say the Raleigh is going to my dad so it's not really an 
> option for me to use after I give it to him!
>
> Thanks for the large amount of responses and advice I got!
>
> On Wednesday, September 25, 2024 at 9:55:06 PM UTC-4 Eric Karnes wrote:
>
>> I can relate. My current living situation required me to make the 
>> following decision:
>>
>>
>> (A) Lock up my current Riv outside in South Philadelphia (albeit under a 
>> rain cover and behind a locked gate in the back yard of a row house); or
>>
>> (B) Sell it and not have a nice bike to ride.
>>
>>
>> Needless to say, I chose option A. Obviously, I’ll be absolutely gutted 
>> if my Riv is stolen. But if it means being able to regularly ride and enjoy 
>> the bike, I’m willing to take the chance. I agree wholeheartedly with Leah. 
>> I’ve owned two Homers over the years. They are wonderful bikes and we all 
>> pay good money for our Rivendells because of their beauty and ride quality. 
>> But if–worst case scenario–yours got stolen, with a little bit of patience 
>> (and reaching out to the RBW group), you could likely eventually find 
>> another. I know this is easier said than done and it would be a financial 
>> (and emotional) hit. But I say, ride it as much as you can. Even if that 
>> entails some risk in locking it up during commuting. 
>>
>>
>> Just my two cents. That said, multiple quality U locks (and cables) never 
>> hurt…especially if you can leave one of them in the bike locker at your 
>> university. And I’m going to look into these Hexlox…
>>
>> On Wednesday, September 25, 2024 at 9:03:20 PM UTC-4 Michael Baquerizo 
>> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> https://hiplok.com/product/hiplok-d1000/?utm_source=Google+Shopping&utm_campaign=US+Google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=40860¤cy=USD&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw6c63BhAiEiwAF0EH1KK-KrJnR8sg3CoUqpz82OAPWGMmpQ1wgwSm31zqBFSmh-lbEfd5ExoCHt8QAvD_BwE
>>>
>>> and 
>>>
>>> https://www.pitlock.de/en/
>>>
>>> and 
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.urbanbiketech.com/installation-guides/pitlock-hex-bolt-security/
>>>
>>> a rivendell is well deserving of a hiplok. if i wasn't so cheap i'd have 
>>> one by now. (i lock my riv up all the time, albeit not for prolonged 
>>> periods of time in a scheduled way like work or a class)
>>>
>>> pitlocks also allow for needling less things like extra locks and cables.
>>>
>>> pitstoppers help with the smaller bits on your bike. 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, September 25, 2024 at 6:33:07 PM UTC-4 Ryan wrote:
>>>
 Well Patrick, in reality, my X0-1 and SS PX10 made fine daily 
 riders...so I think that mine was a Solomon-like solution.Daily commuting 
 should be pleasurable and I also didn't have the cognitive burden of 
 worrying about a custom and the X0-1 and PX10 are still herenow if I'd 
 been occupying the corner office, I wouldn't think twice about trotting 
 out 
 the Rivs. In your earlier post you did mention secure office space, so 
 totally makes sense to ride one of your lovely customs. 

 Again, in my case a totally moot point. 

 On Wednesday, September 25, 2024 at 4:39:57 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore 
 wrote:

> Josh makes a very good point. What's the point of using a less 
> satisfactory bike for most of your riding?
>
> Still, the dangers of locking up do argue for a second, more 
> disposable, if not completely throw-away bike. Others describe buying 
> Clems 
> for this purpose, and I've been toying with the idea of doing that 
> myself; 
> the price for a full Clem is pretty darn reasonable.
>
> Long ago my latest custom Riv Road was hanging on the wall gathering 
> dust while most of my riding was a long commute to and from work on 
> various 
> beaters (*). After a couple of years of this I had a local builder turn 
> it 
> into a fixed gear and enjoyed it immensely and much more often over 14 
> more 
> years of errand and commuting riding until I replaced it in 2020.
>
> (*) Tho' I have to say that 2 of those beaters were bikes I wish I'd 
> kept: ~ top

Re: [RBW] New Bike Month (s) Sam Hillbourne

I do like that black and creamniceenjoy!

On Wednesday, September 25, 2024 at 5:10:54 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Nice! Congratulations and welcome.
>
> On Wed, Sep 25, 2024 at 11:38 AM Cormac O'Keeffe  
> wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>> I got this Sam Hillbourne back in August. It's been as much fun to build 
>> as it has been to ride. It's not entirely finished. The dynamo lights need 
>> to be set up and there are a few other minor adjustments but overall, it 
>> should be good for the winter commutes ahead.
>>
>> After reading about Rivendell bikes for so many years now, it's great to 
>> to finally be able to ride one.
>>
>> Here are some photos:
>> [image: _7507314_1.JPG]
>> [image: _7507313_1.JPG][image: _7507320_1.JPG][image: _7507321_1.JPG][image: 
>> _7507322_1.JPG]
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Cormac
>>
>>
>> -- 
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>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/2e6eb0bb-9c2f-4c16-99f7-10cc7840a741n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
> ---
>
> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing 
> services
>
>
> ---
>
> *When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*
>
> *But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*
>
> *I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*
>

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[RBW] Re: NBD + Questions About Serial Number/Manufacturer

Oh there's your Homer...nice.

D11009  9th model in 2011 and D is for April . I know current Homers are 
made in Taiwan but earlier ones were made in Waterford Wisconsin ;  I don't 
know if Toyo made some. Cyclofiend et al maybe could tell you. Looks like 
it's in great shape; original owner really looked after it.

Link to Waterford serial numbers...because I think Waterford made your Homer
https://waterfordbikes.com/w/support/serial-numbers/ 

Cute cat !

On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 12:42:24 AM UTC-5 anthony...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Oops format got messed up my bad!
>
> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 1:41:43 AM UTC-4 Anthony Davila wrote:
>
>> I recently bought a used 54 cm Homer Hilsen (SN: D11009) and it finally 
>> came in today! I have some questions though since it seems like the seller 
>> is not sure of the manufacturer and year it was made. Are there any 
>> telltale signs for these things? I could call Rivendell and ask, but it 
>> seems like they don't keep record of serial numbers with info (which I read 
>> from someone else's post here). Let me know if you have any info and here 
>> are some pictures![image: IMG_1211.jpg][image: IMG_1210.jpg][image: 
>> IMG_7572.jpg][image: IMG_7560.jpg]
>
>

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[RBW] Re: NBD + Questions About Serial Number/Manufacturer

oops 9th model in April

On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 5:38:28 AM UTC-5 Ryan wrote:

> Oh there's your Homer...nice.
>
> D11009  9th model in 2011 and D is for April . I know current Homers are 
> made in Taiwan but earlier ones were made in Waterford Wisconsin ;  I don't 
> know if Toyo made some. Cyclofiend et al maybe could tell you. Looks like 
> it's in great shape; original owner really looked after it.
>
> Link to Waterford serial numbers...because I think Waterford made your 
> Homer
> https://waterfordbikes.com/w/support/serial-numbers/ 
>
> Cute cat !
>
> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 12:42:24 AM UTC-5 anthony...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Oops format got messed up my bad!
>>
>> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 1:41:43 AM UTC-4 Anthony Davila wrote:
>>
>>> I recently bought a used 54 cm Homer Hilsen (SN: D11009) and it finally 
>>> came in today! I have some questions though since it seems like the seller 
>>> is not sure of the manufacturer and year it was made. Are there any 
>>> telltale signs for these things? I could call Rivendell and ask, but it 
>>> seems like they don't keep record of serial numbers with info (which I read 
>>> from someone else's post here). Let me know if you have any info and here 
>>> are some pictures![image: IMG_1211.jpg][image: IMG_1210.jpg][image: 
>>> IMG_7572.jpg][image: IMG_7560.jpg]
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Stem for Billie Bars...

2024-09-26 Thread Chris Halasz

I haven't used Billie Bars, but my Toscos work just fine with any 
non-shimmed stems, whether Technomic or Dirt Drop. 

The only bars I've ever had slip was an Albatross with an under-torqued 
26.0mm stem shimmed to accommodate 25.4mm bars. 

I notice the dirt drop stem type, whether Kalloy or Nitto, have both a 
wider and what appears a thicker amount of aluminum around the bar clamp 
portion of the stem. 

Anyway, my twenty dollar purchased new 80mm Kalloy silver polished dirt 
drop stem holds the Toscos just fine. 

The Faceplaters are beautifully crafted, and not a bad idea if you're 
bombing along with swept back bars. Not convinced they're necessary. 

- Chris 
On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 7:36:27 AM UTC-7 Michael Morrissey wrote:

> Just get the faceplater in 31.8. You can get a shim and run smaller 
> diameter bars if you want. Crust also has some Nitto faceplaters in 
> different sizes too. I have one on my Appaloosa and it is very solid.
>
> m
>
>
> On Wednesday, September 25, 2024 at 10:30:31 PM UTC-4 dinoh...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi.  I'm currently building up a Sam H and have just received some Billie 
>> bars.  Really cool, but it seems like a lot of leverage.  I am about to 
>> order a stem but have a hard time imagining Billies staying put with just a 
>> single-bolt Technomic or Tallux.
>>
>> So if I torque the stem down properly, I can count on the Billies not 
>> moving if I jump off a curb or something?  I'm pretty average size.  175 
>> lbs.  Any Billie owners want to chime in with their experience?  Maybe I 
>> should just pay more and get the 4-bolt, face plated stem
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>

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RE: [RBW] bolts??

2024-09-26 Thread Bernard Duhon


















Duh!!!
That makes sense.

But for decades the frustration that logic escapes me.
Couldn’t  they use a stronger bolt in the less demanding applications?.





Yours sincerely,



From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com  On 
Behalf Of Laing Conley
Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2024 8:40 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] bolts??

Three different torque requirements (strengths).

Laing Conley

On Wed, Sep 25, 2024 at 9:10 PM Bernard Duhon 
mailto:bern...@bernardduhon.com>> wrote:
I'm fresh from the garage.
Someone More mechanically inclined than I. Please explain to me why I have 
three different sized Allen heads on my front derailer.?

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Re: [RBW] Modern carbon fiber frames and components [Haters Gonna Hate - for the "Cult-like Fanbase"]

2024-09-26 Thread John Dewey

Presumably, Patrick, these post-apocalyptic monstrosities help keep bike
shops afloat. What a bizarre twist of fate. Shop owners say they need this
income to stay afloat. Pharmacies maybe ought to start selling crack to
grade schoolers for similar reasons.

In my neighborhood these electric motorcycles terrorize the streets and
clog the bike paths. Three abreast, Red Bull in hand, all decked out in
black rather like motorcycle gangs channeling Marlon Brando. At least
motorcycle engines make noise, you can hear them and get out the way. These
things blow by unannounced at 30 mph dead silent save for the whine of the
motor and the kid’s whelping.

Shame on the bike shops for supporting the culture. Plenty of good shops
thrive without this income. Shame shame shame.

I fear I’m repeating myself, sorry about that.

Jock

.

On Thu, Sep 26, 2024 at 7:34 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Changing the subject header:
>
> On Thu, Sep 26, 2024 at 7:13 AM ascpgh  wrote:
>
>> +1 for this gem: *"It’s weird to walk into a **bike shop these days and
>> honestly not want a single solitary thing they **have for sale except
>> for Rock N Roll lube or a tire lever."*
>>
>
>
> Yes, 90% of the products in a modern bike shop don't interest me, but I'm
> glad they'll still hand-build a custom wheel -- tho' man, this is getting
> expensive: about $650 for rims, spokes and build, I supply hubs, no tires.
>
> ... I'll be glad when the bicycle industry returns to being centered on
>> bicyclists not the extremes of performance and racing. I still laugh and
>> appreciate the huge irony when I see an aero CFRP framed road bike with
>> deep section low spoke count wheels driven to rides in the bed of a
>> detailed clean bro-dozer pickup truck.  And old men in brand new Porsche
>> 911s.
>>
>>
> It might well be electric motorcycles. I stopped into the Westside Fat
> Tire Bicycles yesterday and more and more floor space is being given to
> things that look like motorcycles -- they're a lot bigger than Honda 50s.
> They have pedals but with such wide Qs they can't be meant for pedaling. At
> this point I rather think of carbon fiber roadies with nostalgia.
>
>
>
>
>> On Wednesday, September 25, 2024 at 7:41:42 PM UTC-4 dros...@gmail.com
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I read all of Grants stuff. Some of it I agree with a lot and some
>>> things I take with a grain of salt. I sort of love riding everything as
>>> long as it’s decently comfortable. The exception to that is carbon as I
>>> don’t understand enough about it and it makes me nervous. I also don’t need
>>> it as I’m a 15mph guy and not a 20+mph guy. I would say that I probably
>>> fell in love with my Gus as quickly as I’ve ever fallen in love with a bike
>>> since I was a kid, and I’ve owned a lot of bikes. I still wish it had disc
>>> brakes, but honestly, it’s all good. I sure am thankful Riv and Crust and a
>>> few other companies are still offering stuff I want to own. It’s weird to
>>> walk into a bike shop these days and honestly not want a single solitary
>>> thing they have for sale except for Rock N Roll lube or a tire lever.
>>>
>> --
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> .
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[RBW] Re: Stem for Billie Bars...

2024-09-26 Thread Joe Bernard

As a counterpoint to my own suggestion, I have Boscos on my Clem in a 
single-bolt Technomic. They don't budge but I'm not dropping off curbs. 

On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 8:35:13 AM UTC-7 Chris Halasz wrote:

> I haven't used Billie Bars, but my Toscos work just fine with any 
> non-shimmed stems, whether Technomic or Dirt Drop. 
>
> The only bars I've ever had slip was an Albatross with an under-torqued 
> 26.0mm stem shimmed to accommodate 25.4mm bars. 
>
> I notice the dirt drop stem type, whether Kalloy or Nitto, have both a 
> wider and what appears a thicker amount of aluminum around the bar clamp 
> portion of the stem. 
>
> Anyway, my twenty dollar purchased new 80mm Kalloy silver polished dirt 
> drop stem holds the Toscos just fine. 
>
> The Faceplaters are beautifully crafted, and not a bad idea if you're 
> bombing along with swept back bars. Not convinced they're necessary. 
>
> - Chris 
> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 7:36:27 AM UTC-7 Michael Morrissey 
> wrote:
>
>> Just get the faceplater in 31.8. You can get a shim and run smaller 
>> diameter bars if you want. Crust also has some Nitto faceplaters in 
>> different sizes too. I have one on my Appaloosa and it is very solid.
>>
>> m
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, September 25, 2024 at 10:30:31 PM UTC-4 dinoh...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi.  I'm currently building up a Sam H and have just received some 
>>> Billie bars.  Really cool, but it seems like a lot of leverage.  I am about 
>>> to order a stem but have a hard time imagining Billies staying put with 
>>> just a single-bolt Technomic or Tallux.
>>>
>>> So if I torque the stem down properly, I can count on the Billies not 
>>> moving if I jump off a curb or something?  I'm pretty average size.  175 
>>> lbs.  Any Billie owners want to chime in with their experience?  Maybe I 
>>> should just pay more and get the 4-bolt, face plated stem
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Stem for Billie Bars...

2024-09-26 Thread Steve Theberge

Hi folks! 
I have Billie bars on my newly built sam. In talking  it over with Will at 
Riv he strongly suggested the 4 bolt faceplate stem for exactly the reasons 
you mentioned.  110mm on my size 54. 
https://www.rivbike.com/products/stem-nitto-90-190?srsltid=AfmBOoqnIYxgujEKpDnEy5yD8YGOE3tHPf6Rfdv90PzE3_ICnFWx-Qtw

Added bonus is that it’s easier to swap out bars if you change your mind. 

So far it’s been great, feels rock solid with zero slippage. Have fun! 
On Wednesday, September 25, 2024 at 10:30:31 PM UTC-4 dinoh...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Hi.  I'm currently building up a Sam H and have just received some Billie 
> bars.  Really cool, but it seems like a lot of leverage.  I am about to 
> order a stem but have a hard time imagining Billies staying put with just a 
> single-bolt Technomic or Tallux.
>
> So if I torque the stem down properly, I can count on the Billies not 
> moving if I jump off a curb or something?  I'm pretty average size.  175 
> lbs.  Any Billie owners want to chime in with their experience?  Maybe I 
> should just pay more and get the 4-bolt, face plated stem
>
> Thanks!
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Haters Gonna Hate - for the "Cult-like Fanbase"

2024-09-26 Thread ascpgh

+1 for this gem:

*"It’s weird to walk into abike shop these days and honestly not want a 
single solitary thing theyhave for sale except for Rock N Roll lube or a 
tire lever."*

As a person with legs longer than my height dictates in production geometry 
and poorly fits most manufactured bikes I appreciated many of Grant's 
bullet points. I was a Bridgestone dealer because of those before I was a 
 Rivendell customer. 

The thing about anyone notable in their particular subject matter is that 
if they were agreeable across the board they would probably not be notable. 
As PT Barnum said, "Without promotion, something terrible 
happens...nothing".

Having learned about what was necessary to fit me for a more comfortable 
bike that I ride where I ride, for the reasons I ride, when I decided to 
build a new bike I took gems from many sources including being able to meet 
and interact with the builder to appreciate their process ad know they had 
similar respect for my needs. Part of that is not to be attired so that the 
only place I could go comfortably is home at the end of a loop ride.

An under square (top tube < seat tube) frame fits me. No amount of "custom" 
paint and components can equal dimensions appropriate for my reality. Grant 
nailed that need after my description of riding experiences on my RB-1, 
XO-2 and MB-0, strongly suggesting the Rambouillet over the long line for a 
custom.

Drop $17K  on a Trek Madone SL R 9AXS Gen 8 or S-Works Tarmac SL8 LTD and 
you get a frame produced from a mold. The same mold every other consumer of 
that model gets (yes, there are varied materials and layups but not 
geometry). I presume they know who is buying these and instant 
gratification weighs higher than long learned values of cycling accumulated 
through thousands of miles of riding and experiences, good and bad, along 
the way.

What I got for steel custom was engagement with THE person making the 
frame, fork, stem, front rack and decaleur. He watched video of me riding 
my Rambouillet (and rack bait commuter) and took measurements to synthesize 
the good and blend it with my intention distilled from any Walter Mitty-ism 
on either of our part in the process. All that for what prices a mid level 
CFRP box bike costs.

Any pursuit and participation can get so refined that fun has been left 
behind or worse, the price tag excludes those who could really use them at 
their highest potential. I'll be glad when the bicycle industry returns to 
being centered on bicyclists not the extremes of performance and racing. I 
still laugh and appreciate the huge irony when I see an aero CFRP framed 
road bike with deep section low spoke count wheels driven to rides in the 
bed of a detailed clean bro-dozer pickup truck.  And old men in brand new 
Porsche 911s.

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh

On Wednesday, September 25, 2024 at 7:41:42 PM UTC-4 dros...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> I read all of Grants stuff. Some of it I agree with a lot and some things 
> I take with a grain of salt. I sort of love riding everything as long as 
> it’s decently comfortable. The exception to that is carbon as I don’t 
> understand enough about it and it makes me nervous. I also don’t need it as 
> I’m a 15mph guy and not a 20+mph guy. I would say that I probably fell in 
> love with my Gus as quickly as I’ve ever fallen in love with a bike since I 
> was a kid, and I’ve owned a lot of bikes. I still wish it had disc brakes, 
> but honestly, it’s all good. I sure am thankful Riv and Crust and a few 
> other companies are still offering stuff I want to own. It’s weird to walk 
> into a bike shop these days and honestly not want a single solitary thing 
> they have for sale except for Rock N Roll lube or a tire lever. 
>
>
>
> On Wed, Sep 25, 2024 at 1:22 PM Mathias Steiner  
> wrote:
>
>> I think it's funny, and it's brightened my day a little. All the vitriol.
>>
>> Grant has said some things that I find ill-advised -- like referring to 
>> padded shorts as 'diaper pads.' That's kind of eighth-grade, plus there are 
>> folks who ride more comfortably with than without bike shorts. I'm one of 
>> them, once I go beyond an hour or so.
>>
>> As far as disc brakes, I never owned any until I bought a trike that had 
>> mechanical Tektros. After I moved that bike along, I had a better 
>> understanding of discs, but I never bought another and don't plan to. A 
>> good solution, but I'm not sure it has a corresponding problem. Everyone 
>> else can do what they please, up to and including bike store mechanics. But 
>> GP is handy for apportioning blame, so let's hope this was helpful to the 
>> original complainant :)
>>
>> At least Grant gets credit for putting his money where his mouth is and 
>> producing -- or causing to be produced -- parts that would be obsolete 
>> otherwise.
>> I prefer clicky shifters over friction but I love having the option to 
>> switch. I've started hoarding 8- and 9-speed STI compatible bar-ends. Too 
>> bad Grant isn't

[RBW] Modern carbon fiber frames and components [Haters Gonna Hate - for the "Cult-like Fanbase"]

Changing the subject header:

On Thu, Sep 26, 2024 at 7:13 AM ascpgh  wrote:

> +1 for this gem: *"It’s weird to walk into a **bike shop these days and
> honestly not want a single solitary thing they **have for sale except for
> Rock N Roll lube or a tire lever."*
>


Yes, 90% of the products in a modern bike shop don't interest me, but I'm
glad they'll still hand-build a custom wheel -- tho' man, this is getting
expensive: about $650 for rims, spokes and build, I supply hubs, no tires.

... I'll be glad when the bicycle industry returns to being centered on
> bicyclists not the extremes of performance and racing. I still laugh and
> appreciate the huge irony when I see an aero CFRP framed road bike with
> deep section low spoke count wheels driven to rides in the bed of a
> detailed clean bro-dozer pickup truck.  And old men in brand new Porsche
> 911s.
>
>
It might well be electric motorcycles. I stopped into the Westside Fat Tire
Bicycles yesterday and more and more floor space is being given to things
that look like motorcycles -- they're a lot bigger than Honda 50s. They
have pedals but with such wide Qs they can't be meant for pedaling. At this
point I rather think of carbon fiber roadies with nostalgia.




> On Wednesday, September 25, 2024 at 7:41:42 PM UTC-4 dros...@gmail.com
> wrote:
>
>> I read all of Grants stuff. Some of it I agree with a lot and some things
>> I take with a grain of salt. I sort of love riding everything as long as
>> it’s decently comfortable. The exception to that is carbon as I don’t
>> understand enough about it and it makes me nervous. I also don’t need it as
>> I’m a 15mph guy and not a 20+mph guy. I would say that I probably fell in
>> love with my Gus as quickly as I’ve ever fallen in love with a bike since I
>> was a kid, and I’ve owned a lot of bikes. I still wish it had disc brakes,
>> but honestly, it’s all good. I sure am thankful Riv and Crust and a few
>> other companies are still offering stuff I want to own. It’s weird to walk
>> into a bike shop these days and honestly not want a single solitary thing
>> they have for sale except for Rock N Roll lube or a tire lever.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Stem for Billie Bars...

2024-09-26 Thread Michael Morrissey

Just get the faceplater in 31.8. You can get a shim and run smaller 
diameter bars if you want. Crust also has some Nitto faceplaters in 
different sizes too. I have one on my Appaloosa and it is very solid.

m


On Wednesday, September 25, 2024 at 10:30:31 PM UTC-4 dinoh...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Hi.  I'm currently building up a Sam H and have just received some Billie 
> bars.  Really cool, but it seems like a lot of leverage.  I am about to 
> order a stem but have a hard time imagining Billies staying put with just a 
> single-bolt Technomic or Tallux.
>
> So if I torque the stem down properly, I can count on the Billies not 
> moving if I jump off a curb or something?  I'm pretty average size.  175 
> lbs.  Any Billie owners want to chime in with their experience?  Maybe I 
> should just pay more and get the 4-bolt, face plated stem
>
> Thanks!
>

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[RBW] Re: MKS Pretzel pedals

2024-09-26 Thread Conway Bennett

I have an all but new pair of these pedals to sell.  I like them, but they 
are relatively heavy, and I've been going down a weight weenie rabbit hole 
on my Monstercross that they were on.

On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 4:25:40 AM UTC-5 Dan wrote:

> I’ve just chucked these on my Appaloosa to try out over the Gammas I 
> originally had on. 
> Looks wise, they are nice but not quite as nice as the Gammas, which look 
> fantastic. I kinda wish I’d bought the panda ones that blue lug sells as 
> it’s all a bit silver - silver with my silver cranks, but eh. Maybe one 
> day. 
>
> They feel great though with their wider platform!
>
> On Thursday 26 September 2024 at 12:01:11 UTC+9:30 trya...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> These are my favorite looking and feeling pedals so far.
>> On Tuesday, July 16, 2024 at 5:05:38 AM UTC-7 captaincon...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I've been riding VP pedals exclusively for over a decade, but I bought 
>>> these when I built my Monstercross last Winter, and I love the subtle 
>>> concave.
>>>
>>> On Monday, July 15, 2024 at 9:20:19 PM UTC-5 Hoch in ut wrote:
>>>
 [image: IMG_4835.jpeg][image: IMG_4834.jpeg]I just picked these up to 
 replace my trusty Crank Bros Stamp pedals. I like big and wide platforms 
 and the Grip Kings just didn’t do it for me anymore. I’ve used Stamp 
 pedals 
 for years but happened on these on Amazon. Shipped from Japan, which took 
 a 
 week. 
 Love them so far. 

>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Stem for Billie Bars...

2024-09-26 Thread Ryan Ogilvie

Billie owner here re-upping what everyone else has said (had Orthos on Nitto Tallux that would slip when doing silly stuff) and saying that my Billies on a faceplatter have been rock solid when presented with a bit of tomfoolery. Sent from my mobile device. On Sep 26, 2024, at 8:10 AM, Steve Theberge wrote:Hi folks! I have Billie bars on my newly built sam. In talking it over with Will at Riv he strongly suggested the 4 bolt faceplate stem for exactly the reasons you mentioned. 110mm on my size 54. https://www.rivbike.com/products/stem-nitto-90-190?srsltid=AfmBOoqnIYxgujEKpDnEy5yD8YGOE3tHPf6Rfdv90PzE3_ICnFWx-QtwAdded bonus is that it’s easier to swap out bars if you change your mind. So far it’s been great, feels rock solid with zero slippage. Have fun! On Wednesday, September 25, 2024 at 10:30:31 PM UTC-4 dinoh...@gmail.com wrote:Hi. I'm currently building up a Sam H and have just received some Billie bars. Really cool, but it seems like a lot of leverage. I am about to order a stem but have a hard time imagining Billies staying put with just a single-bolt Technomic or Tallux.So if I torque the stem down properly, I can count on the Billies not moving if I jump off a curb or something? I'm pretty average size. 175 lbs. Any Billie owners want to chime in with their experience? Maybe I should just pay more and get the 4-bolt, face plated stemThanks!

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[RBW] Re: Haters Gonna Hate - for the "Cult-like Fanbase"

2024-09-26 Thread DJC

I recently left the bike industry after managing a shop for several years. 
For those who have not built or serviced a fully-integrated, race ready 
carbon bike should tread lightly before they criticize shops that don't 
want to work on them. First, to properly assemble that type of bike the 
level of knowledge is way beyond many shops; we have on numerous occasions 
fixed customer's bikes that incorrectly assembled or serviced. Furthermore 
nothing is standard, each brand has erected a proprietary wall and you can 
only order replacement parts for the bike if you're a dealer. Second, disc 
brakes have there place, but not on everything and certainly not on comfort 
hybrids - seriously, hydraulic disc brakes on a Trek Verve? Cheap linear 
pull brakes are more that adequate for that category. I've had three bikes 
with disc brakes, but they had either Paul Klampers or Growtac mechanical 
brakes -- they were outstanding -- no need for hydraulic. But, for my style 
of riding and needs they're unnecessary.

Now on to e-bikes: we only serviced brands we sold. The majority e-bikes 
are white label atrocities sold through Amazon or a direct-to-consumer 
website. There is not tech support, diagnostics, or parts. Many of these 
bikes slip into the country under a trade exemption called de Minimus, 
which allows products under certain value ($700 wholesale bikes) to enter 
the country without meeting CPSC or UL certification standards. Not a 
bright idea when applied to a poorly built lithium ion (bombs). Servicing 
this garbage is bad business. If I wanted to work on mopeds, I would be in 
the scooter business.

Rivendell, Crust, Velo Oranges et al., are a breath of fresh air in an 
otherwise boring and cluttered landscape over-engineered, poorly conceived 
bikes. I'm eternally grateful to Peterson for staying true to his values 
and building beautiful, durable bikes that will be desirable 30 years from 
now. I personally loathe planned obsolescence and marketing trends. If the 
customer wants a big brand bike go for it, but I won't be the one selling 
or servicing it.

"Just Ride"

Dave

On Tuesday, September 24, 2024 at 9:59:43 PM UTC-4 velomann wrote:

> Every week, BikePortland publishes a "Monday Roundup" of bike and 
> transportation items in the news, and this week the New Yorker article on 
> Grant and Rivendell was featured, and received the following response (Bold 
> print is the poster's, not mine).  For your entertainment:
>
> "The mean-spirited regresso-grouchery (regressive retro-grouchery) of 
> Grant Petersen and his supporters helped delay the wide-spread adoption 
> of widely used technologies (e.g. disc brakes, carbon forks, e-bikes) that 
> make transportation cycling* a more pleasant experience. It’s one thing 
> to prefer a certain type of bike and a different thing altogether to 
> constantly slam those who do not prefer your particular flavor of bike. For 
> example, Petersen derisively referred to disc brakes as “motorcycle parts” 
> and often described e-bikes as mopeds or motorcycles.
>
> A real world example of how Petersen’s ideology has been harmful is that 
> many local “steel is real” bike shops have historically refused to work on 
> bikes with disc brakes, internal cable routing, carbon components, or 
> e-bikes despite their popularity (and some still do).
>
> *not racing bikes but every day transportation bikes"
>
>
> I responded, of course, including a comment that I thought "Grant 
> Suppressed Disc Brakes" would make a great bumper sticker, and that I 
> thought they were exaggerating the influence Grant had/has on the bike 
> industry.
>
> the poster had more to say:
>
>
> "I think the formerly wide-spread attitude of people who think like Grant 
> Petersen delayed wide-spread adoption of disc brakes.
>
> You must be confusing Grant with someone who actually has some kind of 
> influence
>
> The guy who put ing Bridgestone bikes on the map, has a blog that 
> millions have read, has published widely-read books reviewed in the NYT, is 
> a major foil of the Bike Snob, has created an enormous cult-like fanbase, 
> and is de facto leader of a slow cycling movement has absolutely influenced 
> the bike industry — and, more importantly, has influenced cycling fans who 
> work in or own bike shops.
>
> Grant Petersen has done an awful lot of amazing things that I respect but 
> that does not mean he should get a pass for being a jerk about the bikes 
> that many of us now ride."
>
>
> Sheesh
>
>
> Mike M
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: NBD + Questions About Serial Number/Manufacturer

2024-09-26 Thread Anthony Davila

Hey Ryan, thanks for the info and the link. That's pretty cool that 
Waterford likely made my Homer! 

Yeah the owner was in Nevada and said he kept it in a room for a couple of 
years, almost like a time capsule. It looks brand new to be honest.

On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 6:52:37 AM UTC-4 Ryan wrote:

> oops 9th model in April
>
> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 5:38:28 AM UTC-5 Ryan wrote:
>
>> Oh there's your Homer...nice.
>>
>> D11009  9th model in 2011 and D is for April . I know current Homers are 
>> made in Taiwan but earlier ones were made in Waterford Wisconsin ;  I don't 
>> know if Toyo made some. Cyclofiend et al maybe could tell you. Looks like 
>> it's in great shape; original owner really looked after it.
>>
>> Link to Waterford serial numbers...because I think Waterford made your 
>> Homer
>> https://waterfordbikes.com/w/support/serial-numbers/ 
>>
>> Cute cat !
>>
>> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 12:42:24 AM UTC-5 anthony...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Oops format got messed up my bad!
>>>
>>> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 1:41:43 AM UTC-4 Anthony Davila wrote:
>>>
 I recently bought a used 54 cm Homer Hilsen (SN: D11009) and it finally 
 came in today! I have some questions though since it seems like the seller 
 is not sure of the manufacturer and year it was made. Are there any 
 telltale signs for these things? I could call Rivendell and ask, but it 
 seems like they don't keep record of serial numbers with info (which I 
 read 
 from someone else's post here). Let me know if you have any info and here 
 are some pictures![image: IMG_1211.jpg][image: IMG_1210.jpg][image: 
 IMG_7572.jpg][image: IMG_7560.jpg]
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Modern carbon fiber frames and components [Haters Gonna Hate - for the "Cult-like Fanbase"]

2024-09-26 Thread Eric Floden

I kind of like reading this from time to time:

https://surlybikes.com/blog/some_answers_to_just_about_any_bike_forum_post_ive_ever_read

If you think your bike looks good, it does.

If you like the way your bike rides, it’s an awesome bike.

You don’t need to spend a million dollars to have a great bike, but if you
do spend a million dollars and know what you want you’ll probably also have
a great bike.

Yes, you can tour on your bike – whatever it is.

Yes, you can race on your bike – whatever it is.

Yes, you can commute on your bike – whatever it is.

26” wheels or 29” or 650b or 700c or 24” or 20” or whatever – yes, that
wheel size is rad and you’ll probably get where you’re going.

Disc brakes, cantis, v-brakes, and road calipers all do a great job of
stopping a bike when they’re working and adjusted.

No paint job makes everyone happy.

Yes, you can put a rack on that. Get some p-clamps if there are no mounts.

Steel is a great material for making bike frames - so is aluminum, carbon
fiber, and titanium.

You can have your saddle at whatever angle makes you happy.

Your handlebars can be lower than your saddle, even with your saddle, or
higher than your saddle. Whichever way you like it is right.

Being shuttled up a downhill run does not make you a weak person, nor does
choosing not to fly off of a 10 foot drop.

Bike frames made overseas can be super cool. Bike frames made in the USA
can be super cool.

Hey, tattooed and pierced long shorts wearin flat brim hat red bull drinkin
white Oakley sportin rad person on your full suspension big hit bike – nice
work out there.

Hey, little round glasses pocket protector collared shirt skid lid rear
view mirror sandal wearing schwalbe marathon running pletscher two-leg
kickstand tourist – good job.

Hey, shaved leg skinny as hell super duper tan line hear rate monitor
checking power tap train in the basement all winter super loud lycra kit
million dollar wheels racer – keep it up.

The more you ride your bike, the less your ass will hurt.

The following short answers are good answers, but not the only ones for the
question asked – 29”, Brooks, lugged, disc brake, steel, Campagnolo,
helmet, custom, Rohloff, NJS, carbon, 31.8, clipless, porteur.

No bike does everything perfectly. In fact, no bike does anything until
someone gets on it to ride.

Sometimes, recumbent bikes are ok.

Your bikeshop is not trying to screw you. They’re trying to stay open.

Buying things off of the internet is great, except when it sucks.

Some people know more about bikes than you do. Other people know less.

Maybe the person you waved at while you were out riding didn’t see you wave
at them.

It sucks to be harassed by assholes in cars while you’re on a bike. It also
sucks to drive behind assholes on bikes.

Did you build that yourself? Awesome. Did you buy that? Cool.

Wheelies are the best trick ever invented. That’s just a fact.

Which is better, riding long miles, or hanging out under a bridge doing
tricks? Yes.

Yes, you can break your collar bone riding a bike like that.

Stopping at stop signs is probably a good idea.

Driving with your bikes on top of your car to get to a dirt trail isn’t
ideal, but for most people it’s necessary.

If your bike has couplers, or if you have a spendy bike case, or if you pay
a shop to pack your bike, or if you have a folding bike, shipping a bike is
still a pain in the ass for everyone involved.

That dent in your frame is probably ok, but maybe it’s not. You should get
it looked at.

Touch up paint always looks like shit. Often it looks worse than the
scratch.

A pristine bike free of dirt, scratches, and wear marks makes me sort of
sad.

A bike that’s been chained to the same tree for three years caked with rust
and missing parts makes me sad too.

Bikes purchased at Wal-mart, Target, Costco, or K-mart are generally not
the best bang for your buck.

Toe overlap is not the end of the world, unless you crash and die – then it
is.

Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.

Yes, you can buy a bike without riding it first. It would be nice to ride
it first, but it’s not a deal breaker not to.

Ownership of a truing stand does not a wheel builder make.

32 spokes, 48 spokes, 24 spokes, three spokes? Sure.

Single speed bikes are rad. Bikes with derailleurs and cassettes are sexy.
Belt drive internal gear bikes work great too.

Columbus, TruTemper, Reynolds, Ishiwata, or no brand? I’d ride it.

Tubeless tires are pretty cool. So are tubes.

The moral of RAGBRAI is that families and drunken boobs can have fun on the
same route, just maybe at different times of day.

Riding by yourself kicks ass. You might also try riding with a group.

Really fast people are frustrating, but they make you faster. When you get
faster, you might frustrate someone else.

Stopping can be as much fun as riding.

Lots of people worked their asses off to build whatever trail or road or
alley you’re riding on. You should thank them.


On Thu

Re: [RBW] Modern carbon fiber frames and components [Haters Gonna Hate - for the "Cult-like Fanbase"]

2024-09-26 Thread Paul Choi

The Rivendell tribe is something that most people just don't get. Many 
people just don't know anything about what stirs the soul. Let's not get 
distracted by folks who don't get it. 
Enjoy the bikes, build up the community and maybe once in a while you can 
share the joy of riding a Rivendell with someone who doesn't get it yet.

On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 8:48:35 AM UTC-7 John Dewey wrote:

> Presumably, Patrick, these post-apocalyptic monstrosities help keep bike 
> shops afloat. What a bizarre twist of fate. Shop owners say they need this 
> income to stay afloat. Pharmacies maybe ought to start selling crack to 
> grade schoolers for similar reasons. 
>
> In my neighborhood these electric motorcycles terrorize the streets and 
> clog the bike paths. Three abreast, Red Bull in hand, all decked out in 
> black rather like motorcycle gangs channeling Marlon Brando. At least 
> motorcycle engines make noise, you can hear them and get out the way. These 
> things blow by unannounced at 30 mph dead silent save for the whine of the 
> motor and the kid’s whelping. 
>
> Shame on the bike shops for supporting the culture. Plenty of good shops 
> thrive without this income. Shame shame shame. 
>
> I fear I’m repeating myself, sorry about that. 
>
> Jock
>
> . 
>
> On Thu, Sep 26, 2024 at 7:34 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> Changing the subject header: 
>>
>> On Thu, Sep 26, 2024 at 7:13 AM ascpgh  wrote:
>>
>>> +1 for this gem: *"It’s weird to walk into a **bike shop these days and 
>>> honestly not want a single solitary thing they **have for sale except 
>>> for Rock N Roll lube or a tire lever."*
>>>
>>  
>>
>> Yes, 90% of the products in a modern bike shop don't interest me, but I'm 
>> glad they'll still hand-build a custom wheel -- tho' man, this is getting 
>> expensive: about $650 for rims, spokes and build, I supply hubs, no tires.
>>
>> ... I'll be glad when the bicycle industry returns to being centered on 
>>> bicyclists not the extremes of performance and racing. I still laugh and 
>>> appreciate the huge irony when I see an aero CFRP framed road bike with 
>>> deep section low spoke count wheels driven to rides in the bed of a 
>>> detailed clean bro-dozer pickup truck.  And old men in brand new Porsche 
>>> 911s.
>>>
>>>
>> It might well be electric motorcycles. I stopped into the Westside Fat 
>> Tire Bicycles yesterday and more and more floor space is being given to 
>> things that look like motorcycles -- they're a lot bigger than Honda 50s. 
>> They have pedals but with such wide Qs they can't be meant for pedaling. At 
>> this point I rather think of carbon fiber roadies with nostalgia.
>>
>>
>>  
>>
>>> On Wednesday, September 25, 2024 at 7:41:42 PM UTC-4 dros...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 I read all of Grants stuff. Some of it I agree with a lot and some 
 things I take with a grain of salt. I sort of love riding everything as 
 long as it’s decently comfortable. The exception to that is carbon as I 
 don’t understand enough about it and it makes me nervous. I also don’t 
 need 
 it as I’m a 15mph guy and not a 20+mph guy. I would say that I probably 
 fell in love with my Gus as quickly as I’ve ever fallen in love with a 
 bike 
 since I was a kid, and I’ve owned a lot of bikes. I still wish it had disc 
 brakes, but honestly, it’s all good. I sure am thankful Riv and Crust and 
 a 
 few other companies are still offering stuff I want to own. It’s weird to 
 walk into a bike shop these days and honestly not want a single solitary 
 thing they have for sale except for Rock N Roll lube or a tire lever. 

>>> -- 
>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: bolts??

Three seems weird.  Almost every front derailleur takes one allen key 
(5mm).  What's the model of Front Derailleur that is bugging you?

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Wednesday, September 25, 2024 at 6:10:17 PM UTC-7 
ber...@bernardduhon.com wrote:

> I'm fresh from the garage.
> Someone More mechanically inclined than I. Please explain to me why I have 
> three different sized Allen heads on my front derailer.?
>  
>

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Re: [RBW] Modern carbon fiber frames and components [Haters Gonna Hate - for the "Cult-like Fanbase"]

Eric...thanks for the reminder...I like reading it from time-to-time too

On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 11:17:28 AM UTC-5 ericf3 wrote:

> I kind of like reading this from time to time:
>
>
> https://surlybikes.com/blog/some_answers_to_just_about_any_bike_forum_post_ive_ever_read
>
> If you think your bike looks good, it does.
>
> If you like the way your bike rides, it’s an awesome bike.
>
> You don’t need to spend a million dollars to have a great bike, but if you 
> do spend a million dollars and know what you want you’ll probably also have 
> a great bike.
>
> Yes, you can tour on your bike – whatever it is.
>
> Yes, you can race on your bike – whatever it is.
>
> Yes, you can commute on your bike – whatever it is.
>
> 26” wheels or 29” or 650b or 700c or 24” or 20” or whatever – yes, that 
> wheel size is rad and you’ll probably get where you’re going.
>
> Disc brakes, cantis, v-brakes, and road calipers all do a great job of 
> stopping a bike when they’re working and adjusted.
>
> No paint job makes everyone happy.
>
> Yes, you can put a rack on that. Get some p-clamps if there are no mounts.
>
> Steel is a great material for making bike frames - so is aluminum, carbon 
> fiber, and titanium.
>
> You can have your saddle at whatever angle makes you happy.
>
> Your handlebars can be lower than your saddle, even with your saddle, or 
> higher than your saddle. Whichever way you like it is right.
>
> Being shuttled up a downhill run does not make you a weak person, nor does 
> choosing not to fly off of a 10 foot drop.
>
> Bike frames made overseas can be super cool. Bike frames made in the USA 
> can be super cool.
>
> Hey, tattooed and pierced long shorts wearin flat brim hat red bull 
> drinkin white Oakley sportin rad person on your full suspension big hit 
> bike – nice work out there.
>
> Hey, little round glasses pocket protector collared shirt skid lid rear 
> view mirror sandal wearing schwalbe marathon running pletscher two-leg 
> kickstand tourist – good job.
>
> Hey, shaved leg skinny as hell super duper tan line hear rate monitor 
> checking power tap train in the basement all winter super loud lycra kit 
> million dollar wheels racer – keep it up.
>
> The more you ride your bike, the less your ass will hurt.
>
> The following short answers are good answers, but not the only ones for 
> the question asked – 29”, Brooks, lugged, disc brake, steel, Campagnolo, 
> helmet, custom, Rohloff, NJS, carbon, 31.8, clipless, porteur.
>
> No bike does everything perfectly. In fact, no bike does anything until 
> someone gets on it to ride.
>
> Sometimes, recumbent bikes are ok.
>
> Your bikeshop is not trying to screw you. They’re trying to stay open.
>
> Buying things off of the internet is great, except when it sucks.
>
> Some people know more about bikes than you do. Other people know less.
>
> Maybe the person you waved at while you were out riding didn’t see you 
> wave at them.
>
> It sucks to be harassed by assholes in cars while you’re on a bike. It 
> also sucks to drive behind assholes on bikes.
>
> Did you build that yourself? Awesome. Did you buy that? Cool.
>
> Wheelies are the best trick ever invented. That’s just a fact.
>
> Which is better, riding long miles, or hanging out under a bridge doing 
> tricks? Yes.
>
> Yes, you can break your collar bone riding a bike like that.
>
> Stopping at stop signs is probably a good idea.
>
> Driving with your bikes on top of your car to get to a dirt trail isn’t 
> ideal, but for most people it’s necessary.
>
> If your bike has couplers, or if you have a spendy bike case, or if you 
> pay a shop to pack your bike, or if you have a folding bike, shipping a 
> bike is still a pain in the ass for everyone involved.
>
> That dent in your frame is probably ok, but maybe it’s not. You should get 
> it looked at.
>
> Touch up paint always looks like shit. Often it looks worse than the 
> scratch.
>
> A pristine bike free of dirt, scratches, and wear marks makes me sort of 
> sad.
>
> A bike that’s been chained to the same tree for three years caked with 
> rust and missing parts makes me sad too.
>
> Bikes purchased at Wal-mart, Target, Costco, or K-mart are generally not 
> the best bang for your buck.
>
> Toe overlap is not the end of the world, unless you crash and die – then 
> it is.
>
> Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.
>
> Yes, you can buy a bike without riding it first. It would be nice to ride 
> it first, but it’s not a deal breaker not to.
>
> Ownership of a truing stand does not a wheel builder make.
>
> 32 spokes, 48 spokes, 24 spokes, three spokes? Sure.
>
> Single speed bikes are rad. Bikes with derailleurs and cassettes are sexy. 
> Belt drive internal gear bikes work great too.
>
> Columbus, TruTemper, Reynolds, Ishiwata, or no brand? I’d ride it.
>
> Tubeless tires are pretty cool. So are tubes.
>
> The moral of RAGBRAI is that families and drunken boobs can have fun on 
> the same route, just ma

[RBW] Re: NBD + Questions About Serial Number/Manufacturer

2024-09-26 Thread Anthony Davila

Oh and my cat Theo says thanks! He was excited in the last pic for sure!

On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 1:44:41 PM UTC-4 Anthony Davila wrote:

> Hey Ryan, thanks for the info and the link. That's pretty cool that 
> Waterford likely made my Homer! 
>
> Yeah the owner was in Nevada and said he kept it in a room for a couple of 
> years, almost like a time capsule. It looks brand new to be honest.
>
> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 6:52:37 AM UTC-4 Ryan wrote:
>
>> oops 9th model in April
>>
>> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 5:38:28 AM UTC-5 Ryan wrote:
>>
>>> Oh there's your Homer...nice.
>>>
>>> D11009  9th model in 2011 and D is for April . I know current Homers are 
>>> made in Taiwan but earlier ones were made in Waterford Wisconsin ;  I don't 
>>> know if Toyo made some. Cyclofiend et al maybe could tell you. Looks like 
>>> it's in great shape; original owner really looked after it.
>>>
>>> Link to Waterford serial numbers...because I think Waterford made your 
>>> Homer
>>> https://waterfordbikes.com/w/support/serial-numbers/ 
>>>
>>> Cute cat !
>>>
>>> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 12:42:24 AM UTC-5 
>>> anthony...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 Oops format got messed up my bad!

 On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 1:41:43 AM UTC-4 Anthony Davila 
 wrote:

> I recently bought a used 54 cm Homer Hilsen (SN: D11009) and it 
> finally came in today! I have some questions though since it seems like 
> the 
> seller is not sure of the manufacturer and year it was made. Are there 
> any 
> telltale signs for these things? I could call Rivendell and ask, but it 
> seems like they don't keep record of serial numbers with info (which I 
> read 
> from someone else's post here). Let me know if you have any info and here 
> are some pictures![image: IMG_1211.jpg][image: IMG_1210.jpg][image: 
> IMG_7572.jpg][image: IMG_7560.jpg]



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[RBW] An attempted RoadUno reconfiguration failure

My first instantiation of my 58cm RoadUno was as a 14-speed, as
immortalized in Will's email update. I used my wheel set which has a
customized 120mm O.L.D. cassette hub which fits 7 cogs from a 9 speed
cassette, updated with 10-speed spacers on what was traditionally a 5-speed
spaced rear hub. Naturally we call it 7of9with10on5.

I had it set up that way for a Mount Diablo Summit, and having done that, I
wanted to reconfigure it with the stock wheels for normal city use. I put
the stock Saint Jump wheels on there, with a White Industries freewheel,
using my Suntour rear derailleur as a tensioner.

Pics prove it:
https://flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/54022678302/in/dateposted/

Problem was that in the stand, the chain was wanting to rise off the cog on
my brand new DOS ENO freewheel. It was worse on the 19 than the 16, but
clearly it wanted to rise off on both of them just pedaling. Weird. I
attributed it in part to the goopy factory lube on a brand-new SRAM 870
chain, and lubed it up and went to bed. In the morning, I tried it out in
the stand again and it was still riding up the cog. I went into my
freewheel box and found a USED White Industries single freewheel, 18T, and
fired that on. In the stand, that was perfecto, and that's what is in the
photograph linked above.

I rode down the hill that night to the local family grocery store for
cilantro and few mushrooms for a soup. Turning back up the hill, DISASTER.
Under load, the same riding up and skipping was happening. I took the
most shallow slope back up the 400ft hill to my house, and put the bike up
in the stand.

I returned the 10-speed spaced chain on there, that I had been using with
my 7of9with10on5 configuration, and rode that around the block. Same
skipping under load.

I called it a failure and put the 7speed rear wheel back on, which is still
perfecto.

My top hypothesis is that in a tensioner configuration, the system wants
more tension from the tensioner than my 35 year old Suntour RD is
providing. I may experiment with shortening the chain to the minimum
length for the two-speed configuration. Some Suntour Rear Derailleurs have
two different holes for the spring, so one can effectively make the spring
a little stronger. That would be experiment #2. Finally, I may borrow the
Paul Melvin from my 3x1 Romulus, to see if that's a far better tensioner.
That Romulus 3x1 drivetrain has been perfect. For now it's a two speed,
but it is running on the 18T cog of a 7sp cassette.

Maybe this is all just the universe telling me to buy a purple anodized
Melvin?

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

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[RBW] Re: FS: Brooks B68s, B67s, 26.8 Seatpost, GK SS+, frame bag

2024-09-26 Thread Chris Halasz



Updated prices do not include shipping, in case someone would like to 
combine, packaged to minimize actual shipping cost! 


Brooks B68s (or B68 short) black, discontinued, excellent condition $130 


Panaracer GravelKing 700x43 SS+ $15 


Green frame bag thing from REI $10 


Brooks B67s (or B67 short) brown, excellent condition $80 Sold


26.8 mm Kalin seatpost $5 Sold 


Please do *not* attempt any payment prior to verifying PayPal account 
(there are folks out there that kind of duplicate - within a character or 
so - existing PayPal accounts)! 


Photos here: 
https://flickr.com/photos/sea-fisherman/albums/72177720313362957/with/53988594021

Thanks 

Chris

On Tuesday, September 24, 2024 at 3:26:25 PM UTC-7 Chris Halasz wrote:

> Prices do not include shipping, in case someone would like to combine, 
> packaged to minimize actual shipping cost! 
>
>
> Brooks B68s (or B68 short) black, discontinued, excellent condition $140 
>
>
> Brooks B67s (or B67 short) brown, excellent condition $80 
>
>
> 700x43 GravelKing SS+ $20 
>
>
> Green frame bag thing from REI $10 
>
>
> 26.8 mm Kalin seatpost $5 
>
>
> Please do *not* attempt any payment prior to verifying PayPal account 
> (there are folks out there that kind of duplicate - within a character or 
> so - existing PayPal accounts)! 
>
>
> Photos here: 
> https://flickr.com/photos/sea-fisherman/albums/72177720313362957/with/53988594021
>
> Thanks 
>
> Chris 
>

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[RBW] 2019 Clem Smith H

2024-09-26 Thread Dennis Wong

Hello,

I am working on my Clem Smith H.  I am trying to remove the Silver 
crankset.  Man that bold is stuck tight.  I am trying leverage with breaker 
bars and penetrating oils.  I'll try the heating method next.

In the event I need to replace the bottom bracket and cartridge, which 
Shimano model would be suitable from the Riv site 
?
 
I don't need anything fancy.

Thank you.

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Re: [RBW] 2019 Clem Smith H

Is this the scene: you have removed the crank attachment bolts and you
screw a Park or VAR or Pedros crank removal tool into the threaded crankarm
and torque it hard to back the arm off the spindle.

If "yes," HALT: make sure you've removed the crank bolt washers from the
socket before threading in the crank removal tool! (I've failed to do that
and removed the crank arm threading instead.)

Or, is this the scene: you are trying to remove the crank bolts that hold
the arms to the spindle and despite penetrating oil and a big lever the
bolt/s won't budge? If this is the case, that's very, very weird unless
you've left the bike outside for years near a large body of salt water. In
decades of removing square taper crank arms from spindles I've never found
one that has seized.

In any event, I'd be careful when using a breaker bar.

Please keep us informed.

On Thu, Sep 26, 2024 at 1:24 PM Dennis Wong  wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I am working on my Clem Smith H.  I am trying to remove the Silver
> crankset.  Man that bold is stuck tight.  I am trying leverage with breaker
> bars and penetrating oils.  I'll try the heating method next.
>
> In the event I need to replace the bottom bracket and cartridge, which
> Shimano model would be suitable from the Riv site
> ?
> I don't need anything fancy.
>
> Thank you.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/72cdf3fa-58eb-46d5-bc70-877f204d20c5n%40googlegroups.com
> 
> .
>

-- 

Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
---

Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing
services

---

*When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*

*But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*

*I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*

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Re: [RBW] Haters Gonna Hate - for the "Cult-like Fanbase"

Eban Weiss writes a typically sober, closely reasoned, and emotionally
detached analysis of the buzz generated by the NY article in today's BSNYC
post: https://bikesnobnyc.com/2024/09/26/thems-the-brakes/

(Reading the commentator's remarks once again, I am once more struck by the
amount of dumbness floating around in the comment-sphere.)

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Re: [RBW] 2019 Clem Smith H

To All: What might make the crank bolt seize in the spindle? This situation
is entirely outside of my experience, which goes back to the late 1960s.

I've used allen-head crank bolts myself, but only after tightening the
crank arms onto the spindle with hex-head bolts -- in other words, I
installed the allen-head bolts for looks. I can't imagine tightening allen
head crank bolts harder than hex head bolts, and I've never had hex bolts
seize. Even after I forgot to lube them.

Patrick "beats me" Moore


On Thu, Sep 26, 2024 at 2:41 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Thank you for clarifying the problem.
>
> I have to say: I am flabbergasted; I've never -- again, in decades of
> removing square taper cranks -- had a problem.
>
> I'm sorry if this seems flippant, but I'm serious. Contrary to my earlier
> warning, me, if I were faced with this problem, I'd get a *longer* breaker
> bar.
>
> And, next time, I'd use hex-head bolts to re-attach the crank arm/s to the
> spindle.
>
> On Thu, Sep 26, 2024 at 2:10 PM Dennis Wong 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi Patrick,
>>
>> I can't remove this bolt (not my Clem).  Sorry for the over-sized photo.
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 12:43:25 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> Is this the scene: you have removed the crank attachment bolts and you
>>> screw a Park or VAR or Pedros crank removal tool into the threaded crankarm
>>> and torque it hard to back the arm off the spindle.
>>>
>>> If "yes," HALT: make sure you've removed the crank bolt washers from the
>>> socket before threading in the crank removal tool! (I've failed to do that
>>> and removed the crank arm threading instead.)
>>>
>>> Or, is this the scene: you are trying to remove the crank bolts that
>>> hold the arms to the spindle and despite penetrating oil and a big lever
>>> the bolt/s won't budge? If this is the case, that's very, very weird unless
>>> you've left the bike outside for years near a large body of salt water. In
>>> decades of removing square taper crank arms from spindles I've never found
>>> one that has seized.
>>>
>>> In any event, I'd be careful when using a breaker bar.
>>>
>>> Please keep us informed.
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] New Bike Month (s) Sam Hillbourne

2024-09-26 Thread Anthony Davila

Congrats! I really like the super dark green frame, bar tape, and rack!

On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 6:41:09 AM UTC-4 Ryan wrote:

> I do like that black and creamniceenjoy!
>
> On Wednesday, September 25, 2024 at 5:10:54 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Nice! Congratulations and welcome.
>>
>> On Wed, Sep 25, 2024 at 11:38 AM Cormac O'Keeffe  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi,
>>> I got this Sam Hillbourne back in August. It's been as much fun to build 
>>> as it has been to ride. It's not entirely finished. The dynamo lights need 
>>> to be set up and there are a few other minor adjustments but overall, it 
>>> should be good for the winter commutes ahead.
>>>
>>> After reading about Rivendell bikes for so many years now, it's great to 
>>> to finally be able to ride one.
>>>
>>> Here are some photos:
>>> [image: _7507314_1.JPG]
>>> [image: _7507313_1.JPG][image: _7507320_1.JPG][image: 
>>> _7507321_1.JPG][image: 
>>> _7507322_1.JPG]
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>> Cormac
>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/2e6eb0bb-9c2f-4c16-99f7-10cc7840a741n%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>> ---
>>
>> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing 
>> services
>>
>>
>> ---
>>
>> *When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*
>>
>> *But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*
>>
>> *I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] 2019 Clem Smith H

2024-09-26 Thread Chris Halasz

I have had to drill crank bolt out in the past. An old Surly frame. Bought 
a few drill bits from the local Ace hardware, and it took less than an hour 
from start to finish. 

That *should* be the worst case scenario. 

- Chris 

On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 1:10:47 PM UTC-7 wong.d...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Hi Patrick,
>
> I can't remove this bolt (not my Clem).  Sorry for the over-sized photo.
>
> [image: 3. Spindle Bolt.jpg]
>
> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 12:43:25 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Is this the scene: you have removed the crank attachment bolts and you 
>> screw a Park or VAR or Pedros crank removal tool into the threaded crankarm 
>> and torque it hard to back the arm off the spindle.
>>
>> If "yes," HALT: make sure you've removed the crank bolt washers from the 
>> socket before threading in the crank removal tool! (I've failed to do that 
>> and removed the crank arm threading instead.)
>>
>> Or, is this the scene: you are trying to remove the crank bolts that hold 
>> the arms to the spindle and despite penetrating oil and a big lever the 
>> bolt/s won't budge? If this is the case, that's very, very weird unless 
>> you've left the bike outside for years near a large body of salt water. In 
>> decades of removing square taper crank arms from spindles I've never found 
>> one that has seized.
>>
>> In any event, I'd be careful when using a breaker bar.
>>
>> Please keep us informed.
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Sep 26, 2024 at 1:24 PM Dennis Wong  wrote:
>>
>>> Hello,
>>>
>>> I am working on my Clem Smith H.  I am trying to remove the Silver 
>>> crankset.  Man that bold is stuck tight.  I am trying leverage with breaker 
>>> bars and penetrating oils.  I'll try the heating method next.
>>>
>>> In the event I need to replace the bottom bracket and cartridge, which 
>>> Shimano model would be suitable from the Riv site 
>>> ?
>>>  
>>> I don't need anything fancy.
>>>
>>> Thank you.
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/72cdf3fa-58eb-46d5-bc70-877f204d20c5n%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>> ---
>>
>> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing 
>> services
>>
>>
>> ---
>>
>> *When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*
>>
>> *But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*
>>
>> *I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] An attempted RoadUno reconfiguration failure

2024-09-26 Thread P W

That's interesting Bill.

While finishing mine this week I ran into the same or similar issue using
an 8pd chain, Paul Melvin and a White Industries 46/38 upfront.

The freewheel in question was old and not great, mind you.

I tried using an old Dura Ace RD instead of the Melvin. Same issue.

I replaced the shitty freewheel with a new White Industries 19T and reduced
the chain to the shortest length I could get away with and still shift
gears smoothly in the stand.

I've only ridden it around a few blocks, unloaded, so far, but it's now as
smooth as smooth could be.

I'm surious to see, based on your experience, if it feels the same way
tomorrow on its maiden, longer voyage... I'll throw a few things in the
basket just to load it down some and put it through its paces properly...

On Thu, Sep 26, 2024 at 11:54 AM Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> My first instantiation of my 58cm RoadUno was as a 14-speed, as
> immortalized in Will's email update.  I used my wheel set which has a
> customized 120mm O.L.D. cassette hub which fits 7 cogs from a 9 speed
> cassette, updated with 10-speed spacers on what was traditionally a 5-speed
> spaced rear hub.  Naturally we call it 7of9with10on5.
>
> I had it set up that way for a Mount Diablo Summit, and having done that,
> I wanted to reconfigure it with the stock wheels for normal city use.  I
> put the stock Saint Jump wheels on there, with a White Industries
> freewheel, using my Suntour rear derailleur as a tensioner.
>
> Pics prove it:
> https://flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/54022678302/in/dateposted/
>
> Problem was that in the stand, the chain was wanting to rise off the cog
> on my brand new DOS ENO freewheel.  It was worse on the 19 than the 16, but
> clearly it wanted to rise off on both of them just pedaling.  Weird.  I
> attributed it in part to the goopy factory lube on a brand-new SRAM 870
> chain, and lubed it up and went to bed.  In the morning, I tried it out in
> the stand again and it was still riding up the cog.  I went into my
> freewheel box and found a USED White Industries single freewheel, 18T, and
> fired that on.  In the stand, that was perfecto, and that's what is in the
> photograph linked above.
>
> I rode down the hill that night to the local family grocery store for
> cilantro and few mushrooms for a soup.  Turning back up the hill,
> DISASTER.  Under load, the same riding up and skipping was happening.  I
> took the most shallow slope back up the 400ft hill to my house, and put the
> bike up in the stand.
>
> I returned the 10-speed spaced chain on there, that I had been using with
> my 7of9with10on5 configuration, and rode that around the block.  Same
> skipping under load.
>
> I called it a failure and put the 7speed rear wheel back on, which is
> still perfecto.
>
> My top hypothesis is that in a tensioner configuration, the system wants
> more tension from the tensioner than my 35 year old Suntour RD is
> providing.  I may experiment with shortening the chain to the minimum
> length for the two-speed configuration.  Some Suntour Rear Derailleurs have
> two different holes for the spring, so one can effectively make the spring
> a little stronger.  That would be experiment #2.  Finally, I may borrow the
> Paul Melvin from my 3x1 Romulus, to see if that's a far better tensioner.
> That Romulus 3x1 drivetrain has been perfect.  For now it's a two speed,
> but it is running on the 18T cog of a 7sp cassette.
>
> Maybe this is all just the universe telling me to buy a purple anodized
> Melvin?
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
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> .
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(917) 514 2207

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Re: [RBW] Re: getting bugs off paint

2024-09-26 Thread vernon brooks

I’ve used lighter fluid plenty of times and have never had any issues.

Vern

On Wed, Sep 25, 2024 at 9:31 PM Bill Eberle  wrote:

> Hydrogen perioxide in a spray bottle with a few drops of dish soap like
> Dawn or Joy will also do the job.
>
> On Tuesday, May 14, 2024 at 8:52:54 AM UTC-7 ericf3 wrote:
>
>> Last summer, two roof-mounted bikes* got splattered with big juicy bugs.
>> So far I have only used regular car leash soaps and sponges for this, but
>> the bug goo is not moving. I even started on the day after the goo-ing.
>> Any tips for removing these splotches without fading the paint?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> signed
>>
>> prepared for bug beausage if need be
>>
>>
>> * and the car beneath got it even worse. These bugs lived Drumheller and
>> east to about Melville. They made loud popping sounds
>>
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> .
>

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[RBW] Re: An attempted RoadUno reconfiguration failure

2024-09-26 Thread iamkeith

This is perplexing me.  I was wondering if using a multi-speed chain (meant 
for shifting) on a single-speed cog tooth profile might me the issue.  I'm 
not sure it is, but White Industries does say that chain selection is 
critical.  Without doing my own mental deep dive into the specifics of your 
configuration, you might want to look at the following blurbs from the W.I. 
website.  

On some freewheels they say they have to machine nothes/troughs into the 
central part of the freewheel housing, between the teeth, to allow certain 
chains to engage fully, without riding up.  In other cases, they cannot add 
that notch.  In BOTH cases, only certain chain profiles will work.  Kinda 
sounds related to the problem you're experiencing:

Note: All freewheels can use either 3/32” or ⅛” chains except 16T ENO 
single and all DOS ENO double freewheels (see FAQ below)
FAQ
   
   - Why can’t I run an ⅛” chain on the 16T freewheel? 


   - 
  - Because of the size of the driver and the bearings inside the gear, 
  we are limited in how small we can make the diameter of the base of the 
  gear.  On the 16T you’ll notice a groove machined on the base next to the 
  teeth which is needed to clear even a 3/32” chain.  For an ⅛” chain that 
  groove would need to be a bit deeper to allow the chain to fully seat 
down 
  on the teeth but we can’t make the groove deeper without sacrificing the 
  strength of the gear.  Running an ⅛” chain will prematurely wear out the 
  chain and gear.
   

   - Why can’t I run an ⅛” chain on DOS freewheel?
  - Because there’s not enough room in between the teeth for the wider 
  ⅛” chains
   

On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 6:22:25 PM UTC-6 Brent Knepper wrote:

> hey Bill I am curious if you've ruled out chain problems sans any 
> derailleur/tensioner? like have you seen if you experience the chain 
> wanting to jump in a traditional singlespeed configuration where there is 
> no derailleur/tensioner, and instead the chain is tensioned by pulling the 
> wheel back in the track dropouts? perhaps also 2 or 3 variations of the 
> amount of slack in the chain's tension for observation's sake
>
> I would be inclined to try that as like a control group- maybe you already 
> have, in which case definitely get a fancy purple ano part ˘ᵕ˘
>
> -bk en ny
>
> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 7:53:32 PM UTC-4 TP H wrote:
>
>> And your chainline is straight and not at an angle that would make it 
>> want to roll off the freewheel I assume?
>>
>> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 3:17:34 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> My first freewheel was a brand-new DOS ENO 16/19 and that was super bad 
>>> in the stand with respect to wanting to climb up off the teeth.  
>>>
>>> I've got lots of freewheels to experiment with, so that'll be on the 
>>> list.  
>>>
>>> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 2:57:36 PM UTC-7 Dan wrote:
>>>

 Have you been reading Bike Snob? He had the same skipping issue, and it 
 boiled down to a worn freewheel. It went away when the freewheel was 
 replaced. 
 On Friday 27 September 2024 at 04:24:29 UTC+9:30 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> My first instantiation of my 58cm RoadUno was as a 14-speed, as 
> immortalized in Will's email update.  I used my wheel set which has a 
> customized 120mm O.L.D. cassette hub which fits 7 cogs from a 9 speed 
> cassette, updated with 10-speed spacers on what was traditionally a 
> 5-speed 
> spaced rear hub.  Naturally we call it 7of9with10on5.  
>
> I had it set up that way for a Mount Diablo Summit, and having done 
> that, I wanted to reconfigure it with the stock wheels for normal city 
> use. 
>  I put the stock Saint Jump wheels on there, with a White Industries 
> freewheel, using my Suntour rear derailleur as a tensioner.  
>
> Pics prove it:
> https://flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/54022678302/in/dateposted/
>
> Problem was that in the stand, the chain was wanting to rise off the 
> cog on my brand new DOS ENO freewheel.  It was worse on the 19 than the 
> 16, 
> but clearly it wanted to rise off on both of them just pedaling.  Weird.  
> I 
> attributed it in part to the goopy factory lube on a brand-new SRAM 870 
> chain, and lubed it up and went to bed.  In the morning, I tried it out 
> in 
> the stand again and it was still riding up the cog.  I went into my 
> freewheel box and found a USED White Industries single freewheel, 18T, 
> and 
> fired that on.  In the stand, that was perfecto, and that's what is in 
> the 
> photograph linked above.  
>
> I rode down the hill that night to the local family grocery store for 
> cilantro and few mushrooms for a soup.  Turning back up the hill, 
> DISASTER. 
>  Under load, the same riding up and skipping was happening.  I took the 
> most shallow slope back up the 400ft hill to my house

[RBW] Re: FS: Quick release saddle bag holder

2024-09-26 Thread Jim M.

Sold, pending payment. Someone should start making these again, judging by 
demand.
thanks
jim

On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 2:02:20 PM UTC-7 Jim M. wrote:

> Here's a nifty item Riv used to sell. It holds the saddle bag away from 
> the seat so your legs have more clearance, and it has a quick release so 
> you can easily take the bag with you when you stop. I've found a Riv banana 
> bag to be adequate for my needs and don't need this holder any more. 
>
> $50 plus shipping
>
> jim in walnut creek
>
> [image: IMG_9518.JPG][image: IMG_9519.JPG]
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Quick release saddle bag holder

2024-09-26 Thread Eric Floden

>
>
> I have one and just love it. Not for sale, sorry

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[RBW] Re: New To the Group

2024-09-26 Thread Stephen Durfee

Welcome, George. Maybe you could share some pics of your wife's Betty, I'm 
sure we would love to see what your Utah country trails look like...!


On Tuesday, September 24, 2024 at 10:47:34 PM UTC-7 georgeg...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Been reading the subjects on here for awhile great to see all the posts 
> about cool rivendells.  Only one so far in our family that I picked up here 
> in Utah for my wife a mint condition Betty Foy.  We love heading out on 
> town and country trail rides in the evenings.
>
> Great to see a group about bikes that aren't electric - which have taken 
> over our town (Park City Utah) from the bike paths to the trails.  
>

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[RBW] Re: An attempted RoadUno reconfiguration failure

My first freewheel was a brand-new DOS ENO 16/19 and that was super bad in 
the stand with respect to wanting to climb up off the teeth.  

I've got lots of freewheels to experiment with, so that'll be on the list.  

On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 2:57:36 PM UTC-7 Dan wrote:

>
> Have you been reading Bike Snob? He had the same skipping issue, and it 
> boiled down to a worn freewheel. It went away when the freewheel was 
> replaced. 
> On Friday 27 September 2024 at 04:24:29 UTC+9:30 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> My first instantiation of my 58cm RoadUno was as a 14-speed, as 
>> immortalized in Will's email update.  I used my wheel set which has a 
>> customized 120mm O.L.D. cassette hub which fits 7 cogs from a 9 speed 
>> cassette, updated with 10-speed spacers on what was traditionally a 5-speed 
>> spaced rear hub.  Naturally we call it 7of9with10on5.  
>>
>> I had it set up that way for a Mount Diablo Summit, and having done that, 
>> I wanted to reconfigure it with the stock wheels for normal city use.  I 
>> put the stock Saint Jump wheels on there, with a White Industries 
>> freewheel, using my Suntour rear derailleur as a tensioner.  
>>
>> Pics prove it:
>> https://flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/54022678302/in/dateposted/
>>
>> Problem was that in the stand, the chain was wanting to rise off the cog 
>> on my brand new DOS ENO freewheel.  It was worse on the 19 than the 16, but 
>> clearly it wanted to rise off on both of them just pedaling.  Weird.  I 
>> attributed it in part to the goopy factory lube on a brand-new SRAM 870 
>> chain, and lubed it up and went to bed.  In the morning, I tried it out in 
>> the stand again and it was still riding up the cog.  I went into my 
>> freewheel box and found a USED White Industries single freewheel, 18T, and 
>> fired that on.  In the stand, that was perfecto, and that's what is in the 
>> photograph linked above.  
>>
>> I rode down the hill that night to the local family grocery store for 
>> cilantro and few mushrooms for a soup.  Turning back up the hill, DISASTER. 
>>  Under load, the same riding up and skipping was happening.  I took the 
>> most shallow slope back up the 400ft hill to my house, and put the bike up 
>> in the stand.  
>>
>> I returned the 10-speed spaced chain on there, that I had been using with 
>> my 7of9with10on5 configuration, and rode that around the block.  Same 
>> skipping under load.  
>>
>> I called it a failure and put the 7speed rear wheel back on, which is 
>> still perfecto.  
>>
>> My top hypothesis is that in a tensioner configuration, the system wants 
>> more tension from the tensioner than my 35 year old Suntour RD is 
>> providing.  I may experiment with shortening the chain to the minimum 
>> length for the two-speed configuration.  Some Suntour Rear Derailleurs have 
>> two different holes for the spring, so one can effectively make the spring 
>> a little stronger.  That would be experiment #2.  Finally, I may borrow the 
>> Paul Melvin from my 3x1 Romulus, to see if that's a far better tensioner. 
>>  That Romulus 3x1 drivetrain has been perfect.  For now it's a two speed, 
>> but it is running on the 18T cog of a 7sp cassette.  
>>
>> Maybe this is all just the universe telling me to buy a purple anodized 
>> Melvin?
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] 2019 Clem Smith H

I documented (or think I documented) that my RoadUno complete had its crank 
bolts SUPER tight.  I extended my long handle 8mm allen with a ~2ft length 
of PVC pipe.  I toe strapped the crank arm to the chainstay and leaned on 
it.  It released with a loud "POP" sound.  After that initial "release" it 
unscrewed as effortlessly as one would expect.  The threads were kind of 
greased but there was no grease under the head of the bolt.  I envision 
they used some impact wrench object to get it tight, and the binding was 
just friction between the underside of the head of the bolt and the 
aluminum of the crank arm.  That interface should be lubed, and now it is. 
 :)

I have no difficulty imagining that a Clem Complete was built in a similar 
process.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA 

On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 1:47:13 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> To All: What might make the crank bolt seize in the spindle? This 
> situation is entirely outside of my experience, which goes back to the late 
> 1960s.
>
> I've used allen-head crank bolts myself, but only after tightening the 
> crank arms onto the spindle with hex-head bolts -- in other words, I 
> installed the allen-head bolts for looks. I can't imagine tightening allen 
> head crank bolts harder than hex head bolts, and I've never had hex bolts 
> seize. Even after I forgot to lube them.
>
> Patrick "beats me" Moore
>
>
> On Thu, Sep 26, 2024 at 2:41 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> Thank you for clarifying the problem.
>>
>> I have to say: I am flabbergasted; I've never -- again, in decades of 
>> removing square taper cranks -- had a problem.
>>
>> I'm sorry if this seems flippant, but I'm serious. Contrary to my earlier 
>> warning, me, if I were faced with this problem, I'd get a *longer* breaker 
>> bar.
>>
>> And, next time, I'd use hex-head bolts to re-attach the crank arm/s to 
>> the spindle.
>>
>> On Thu, Sep 26, 2024 at 2:10 PM Dennis Wong  wrote:
>>
> Hi Patrick,
>>>
>>> I can't remove this bolt (not my Clem).  Sorry for the over-sized photo.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 12:43:25 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
 Is this the scene: you have removed the crank attachment bolts and you 
 screw a Park or VAR or Pedros crank removal tool into the threaded 
 crankarm 
 and torque it hard to back the arm off the spindle.

 If "yes," HALT: make sure you've removed the crank bolt washers from 
 the socket before threading in the crank removal tool! (I've failed to do 
 that and removed the crank arm threading instead.)

 Or, is this the scene: you are trying to remove the crank bolts that 
 hold the arms to the spindle and despite penetrating oil and a big lever 
 the bolt/s won't budge? If this is the case, that's very, very weird 
 unless 
 you've left the bike outside for years near a large body of salt water. In 
 decades of removing square taper crank arms from spindles I've never found 
 one that has seized.

 In any event, I'd be careful when using a breaker bar.

 Please keep us informed.

>>>

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[RBW] Re: An attempted RoadUno reconfiguration failure

2024-09-26 Thread TP H

And your chainline is straight and not at an angle that would make it want 
to roll off the freewheel I assume?

On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 3:17:34 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> My first freewheel was a brand-new DOS ENO 16/19 and that was super bad in 
> the stand with respect to wanting to climb up off the teeth.  
>
> I've got lots of freewheels to experiment with, so that'll be on the list. 
>  
>
> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 2:57:36 PM UTC-7 Dan wrote:
>
>>
>> Have you been reading Bike Snob? He had the same skipping issue, and it 
>> boiled down to a worn freewheel. It went away when the freewheel was 
>> replaced. 
>> On Friday 27 September 2024 at 04:24:29 UTC+9:30 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> My first instantiation of my 58cm RoadUno was as a 14-speed, as 
>>> immortalized in Will's email update.  I used my wheel set which has a 
>>> customized 120mm O.L.D. cassette hub which fits 7 cogs from a 9 speed 
>>> cassette, updated with 10-speed spacers on what was traditionally a 5-speed 
>>> spaced rear hub.  Naturally we call it 7of9with10on5.  
>>>
>>> I had it set up that way for a Mount Diablo Summit, and having done 
>>> that, I wanted to reconfigure it with the stock wheels for normal city use. 
>>>  I put the stock Saint Jump wheels on there, with a White Industries 
>>> freewheel, using my Suntour rear derailleur as a tensioner.  
>>>
>>> Pics prove it:
>>> https://flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/54022678302/in/dateposted/
>>>
>>> Problem was that in the stand, the chain was wanting to rise off the cog 
>>> on my brand new DOS ENO freewheel.  It was worse on the 19 than the 16, but 
>>> clearly it wanted to rise off on both of them just pedaling.  Weird.  I 
>>> attributed it in part to the goopy factory lube on a brand-new SRAM 870 
>>> chain, and lubed it up and went to bed.  In the morning, I tried it out in 
>>> the stand again and it was still riding up the cog.  I went into my 
>>> freewheel box and found a USED White Industries single freewheel, 18T, and 
>>> fired that on.  In the stand, that was perfecto, and that's what is in the 
>>> photograph linked above.  
>>>
>>> I rode down the hill that night to the local family grocery store for 
>>> cilantro and few mushrooms for a soup.  Turning back up the hill, DISASTER. 
>>>  Under load, the same riding up and skipping was happening.  I took the 
>>> most shallow slope back up the 400ft hill to my house, and put the bike up 
>>> in the stand.  
>>>
>>> I returned the 10-speed spaced chain on there, that I had been using 
>>> with my 7of9with10on5 configuration, and rode that around the block.  Same 
>>> skipping under load.  
>>>
>>> I called it a failure and put the 7speed rear wheel back on, which is 
>>> still perfecto.  
>>>
>>> My top hypothesis is that in a tensioner configuration, the system wants 
>>> more tension from the tensioner than my 35 year old Suntour RD is 
>>> providing.  I may experiment with shortening the chain to the minimum 
>>> length for the two-speed configuration.  Some Suntour Rear Derailleurs have 
>>> two different holes for the spring, so one can effectively make the spring 
>>> a little stronger.  That would be experiment #2.  Finally, I may borrow the 
>>> Paul Melvin from my 3x1 Romulus, to see if that's a far better tensioner. 
>>>  That Romulus 3x1 drivetrain has been perfect.  For now it's a two speed, 
>>> but it is running on the 18T cog of a 7sp cassette.  
>>>
>>> Maybe this is all just the universe telling me to buy a purple anodized 
>>> Melvin?
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: An attempted RoadUno reconfiguration failure

2024-09-26 Thread Brent Knepper

hey Bill I am curious if you've ruled out chain problems sans any 
derailleur/tensioner? like have you seen if you experience the chain 
wanting to jump in a traditional singlespeed configuration where there is 
no derailleur/tensioner, and instead the chain is tensioned by pulling the 
wheel back in the track dropouts? perhaps also 2 or 3 variations of the 
amount of slack in the chain's tension for observation's sake

I would be inclined to try that as like a control group- maybe you already 
have, in which case definitely get a fancy purple ano part ˘ᵕ˘

-bk en ny

On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 7:53:32 PM UTC-4 TP H wrote:

> And your chainline is straight and not at an angle that would make it want 
> to roll off the freewheel I assume?
>
> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 3:17:34 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> My first freewheel was a brand-new DOS ENO 16/19 and that was super bad 
>> in the stand with respect to wanting to climb up off the teeth.  
>>
>> I've got lots of freewheels to experiment with, so that'll be on the 
>> list.  
>>
>> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 2:57:36 PM UTC-7 Dan wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Have you been reading Bike Snob? He had the same skipping issue, and it 
>>> boiled down to a worn freewheel. It went away when the freewheel was 
>>> replaced. 
>>> On Friday 27 September 2024 at 04:24:29 UTC+9:30 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
 My first instantiation of my 58cm RoadUno was as a 14-speed, as 
 immortalized in Will's email update.  I used my wheel set which has a 
 customized 120mm O.L.D. cassette hub which fits 7 cogs from a 9 speed 
 cassette, updated with 10-speed spacers on what was traditionally a 
 5-speed 
 spaced rear hub.  Naturally we call it 7of9with10on5.  

 I had it set up that way for a Mount Diablo Summit, and having done 
 that, I wanted to reconfigure it with the stock wheels for normal city 
 use. 
  I put the stock Saint Jump wheels on there, with a White Industries 
 freewheel, using my Suntour rear derailleur as a tensioner.  

 Pics prove it:
 https://flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/54022678302/in/dateposted/

 Problem was that in the stand, the chain was wanting to rise off the 
 cog on my brand new DOS ENO freewheel.  It was worse on the 19 than the 
 16, 
 but clearly it wanted to rise off on both of them just pedaling.  Weird.  
 I 
 attributed it in part to the goopy factory lube on a brand-new SRAM 870 
 chain, and lubed it up and went to bed.  In the morning, I tried it out in 
 the stand again and it was still riding up the cog.  I went into my 
 freewheel box and found a USED White Industries single freewheel, 18T, and 
 fired that on.  In the stand, that was perfecto, and that's what is in the 
 photograph linked above.  

 I rode down the hill that night to the local family grocery store for 
 cilantro and few mushrooms for a soup.  Turning back up the hill, 
 DISASTER. 
  Under load, the same riding up and skipping was happening.  I took the 
 most shallow slope back up the 400ft hill to my house, and put the bike up 
 in the stand.  

 I returned the 10-speed spaced chain on there, that I had been using 
 with my 7of9with10on5 configuration, and rode that around the block.  Same 
 skipping under load.  

 I called it a failure and put the 7speed rear wheel back on, which is 
 still perfecto.  

 My top hypothesis is that in a tensioner configuration, the system 
 wants more tension from the tensioner than my 35 year old Suntour RD is 
 providing.  I may experiment with shortening the chain to the minimum 
 length for the two-speed configuration.  Some Suntour Rear Derailleurs 
 have 
 two different holes for the spring, so one can effectively make the spring 
 a little stronger.  That would be experiment #2.  Finally, I may borrow 
 the 
 Paul Melvin from my 3x1 Romulus, to see if that's a far better tensioner. 
  That Romulus 3x1 drivetrain has been perfect.  For now it's a two speed, 
 but it is running on the 18T cog of a 7sp cassette.  

 Maybe this is all just the universe telling me to buy a purple anodized 
 Melvin?

 Bill Lindsay
 El Cerrito, CA

>>>

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[RBW] Re: An attempted RoadUno reconfiguration failure

Thanks for all the responses offering suggestions.  I'm comfortable with 
the general approach of debugging complex systems.  When a complex system 
works, it means ten different subsystems work.  When a complex system does 
not work, it could be any number of those subsystems not working.  

Anyway, here's what I did:

I took "perfect drivetrain" 3x1 Romulus down and put it in the stand
I noted it has the identical PC870 chain as the RoadUno
I removed the 18T White Industries ENO freewheel from the Romulus 
I removed the questionable used 18T White Industries ENO freewheel from the 
RoadUno rear wheel
I installed questionable ENO freewheel onto the Romulus wheel and rode it 
around the block --> bad skipping
I installed the known good ENO freewheel onto the RoadUno and rode it 
around the block --> perfecto
I finished up the RoadUno into its 2x1 configuration
I disassembled the "bad" 18T ENO freewheel and will start shopping for a 
new drive ring from White Industries
I installed the brand new 16/19 DOS ENO onto the Romulus --> bad skipping 
in the stand
I installed a 16T Sturmey Archer freewheel onto the Romulus and rode that 
around the block --> perfecto

So, I had TWO bad White Industries freewheels.  The 18T ENO I bought used, 
and didn't pay much, and it's just toast.  No problem I'll buy a new drive 
ring for it and it'll be good as new.  It's a good opportunity to buy a 
different tooth-count.  The 16/19 was one I bought new from White 
Industries, and it was the LAST 16/19 they ever sold.  I suspect it was a 
drive ring they had laying around and it's actually out of spec with 
THICKER teeth than normal so a derailleur chain doesn't fit great on it. 
 It has other manufacturing glitches on it.  Maybe I can get them to give 
me a 16/18 DOS ENO drive ring on warranty.  I'll do some measurements first 
and decide how to proceed.  Either way, weird, but my bikes are all sound.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 3:17:34 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> My first freewheel was a brand-new DOS ENO 16/19 and that was super bad in 
> the stand with respect to wanting to climb up off the teeth.  
>
> I've got lots of freewheels to experiment with, so that'll be on the list. 
>  
>
> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 2:57:36 PM UTC-7 Dan wrote:
>
>>
>> Have you been reading Bike Snob? He had the same skipping issue, and it 
>> boiled down to a worn freewheel. It went away when the freewheel was 
>> replaced. 
>> On Friday 27 September 2024 at 04:24:29 UTC+9:30 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> My first instantiation of my 58cm RoadUno was as a 14-speed, as 
>>> immortalized in Will's email update.  I used my wheel set which has a 
>>> customized 120mm O.L.D. cassette hub which fits 7 cogs from a 9 speed 
>>> cassette, updated with 10-speed spacers on what was traditionally a 5-speed 
>>> spaced rear hub.  Naturally we call it 7of9with10on5.  
>>>
>>> I had it set up that way for a Mount Diablo Summit, and having done 
>>> that, I wanted to reconfigure it with the stock wheels for normal city use. 
>>>  I put the stock Saint Jump wheels on there, with a White Industries 
>>> freewheel, using my Suntour rear derailleur as a tensioner.  
>>>
>>> Pics prove it:
>>> https://flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/54022678302/in/dateposted/
>>>
>>> Problem was that in the stand, the chain was wanting to rise off the cog 
>>> on my brand new DOS ENO freewheel.  It was worse on the 19 than the 16, but 
>>> clearly it wanted to rise off on both of them just pedaling.  Weird.  I 
>>> attributed it in part to the goopy factory lube on a brand-new SRAM 870 
>>> chain, and lubed it up and went to bed.  In the morning, I tried it out in 
>>> the stand again and it was still riding up the cog.  I went into my 
>>> freewheel box and found a USED White Industries single freewheel, 18T, and 
>>> fired that on.  In the stand, that was perfecto, and that's what is in the 
>>> photograph linked above.  
>>>
>>> I rode down the hill that night to the local family grocery store for 
>>> cilantro and few mushrooms for a soup.  Turning back up the hill, DISASTER. 
>>>  Under load, the same riding up and skipping was happening.  I took the 
>>> most shallow slope back up the 400ft hill to my house, and put the bike up 
>>> in the stand.  
>>>
>>> I returned the 10-speed spaced chain on there, that I had been using 
>>> with my 7of9with10on5 configuration, and rode that around the block.  Same 
>>> skipping under load.  
>>>
>>> I called it a failure and put the 7speed rear wheel back on, which is 
>>> still perfecto.  
>>>
>>> My top hypothesis is that in a tensioner configuration, the system wants 
>>> more tension from the tensioner than my 35 year old Suntour RD is 
>>> providing.  I may experiment with shortening the chain to the minimum 
>>> length for the two-speed configuration.  Some Suntour Rear Derailleurs have 
>>> two different holes for the spring, so one can effectively make the spring 
>>> a little stro

Re: [RBW] 2019 Clem Smith H

For a Silver crank on a Clem, I'd bet a dollar that what you have in there 
is a 68x110.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 7:49:43 PM UTC-7 wong.d...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Thanks Bill.
>
> I am going to try heating the head of the bolt with a torch.  Whack the 
> top pf the bolt with a sledge.  Soak it with PB Blaster.  If that doesn't 
> work I'll dril it out.
>
> Back to my initial question (if I screw up too badly) - any 
> recommendations on a bottom bracket?  I "think" it is a JIS 68 and a UN300 
> from the Rivendell page 
> would work.  
> Just not sure if it is a 110, 113, 115, 118 or one of the odder ones like " 
> 122.5 
> x 68, D-NL, B22X, Right +1mm"
>
> Thanks.
> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 3:25:03 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> I documented (or think I documented) that my RoadUno complete had its 
>> crank bolts SUPER tight.  I extended my long handle 8mm allen with a ~2ft 
>> length of PVC pipe.  I toe strapped the crank arm to the chainstay and 
>> leaned on it.  It released with a loud "POP" sound.  After that initial 
>> "release" it unscrewed as effortlessly as one would expect.  The threads 
>> were kind of greased but there was no grease under the head of the bolt.  I 
>> envision they used some impact wrench object to get it tight, and the 
>> binding was just friction between the underside of the head of the bolt and 
>> the aluminum of the crank arm.  That interface should be lubed, and now it 
>> is.  :)
>>
>> I have no difficulty imagining that a Clem Complete was built in a 
>> similar process.  
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA 
>>
>> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 1:47:13 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> To All: What might make the crank bolt seize in the spindle? This 
>>> situation is entirely outside of my experience, which goes back to the late 
>>> 1960s.
>>>
>>> I've used allen-head crank bolts myself, but only after tightening the 
>>> crank arms onto the spindle with hex-head bolts -- in other words, I 
>>> installed the allen-head bolts for looks. I can't imagine tightening allen 
>>> head crank bolts harder than hex head bolts, and I've never had hex bolts 
>>> seize. Even after I forgot to lube them.
>>>
>>> Patrick "beats me" Moore
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, Sep 26, 2024 at 2:41 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>>
 Thank you for clarifying the problem.

 I have to say: I am flabbergasted; I've never -- again, in decades of 
 removing square taper cranks -- had a problem.

 I'm sorry if this seems flippant, but I'm serious. Contrary to my 
 earlier warning, me, if I were faced with this problem, I'd get a 
 *longer* breaker bar.

 And, next time, I'd use hex-head bolts to re-attach the crank arm/s to 
 the spindle.

 On Thu, Sep 26, 2024 at 2:10 PM Dennis Wong  
 wrote:

>>> Hi Patrick,
>
> I can't remove this bolt (not my Clem).  Sorry for the over-sized 
> photo.
>
>
> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 12:43:25 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore 
> wrote:
>
>> Is this the scene: you have removed the crank attachment bolts and 
>> you screw a Park or VAR or Pedros crank removal tool into the threaded 
>> crankarm and torque it hard to back the arm off the spindle.
>>
>> If "yes," HALT: make sure you've removed the crank bolt washers from 
>> the socket before threading in the crank removal tool! (I've failed to 
>> do 
>> that and removed the crank arm threading instead.)
>>
>> Or, is this the scene: you are trying to remove the crank bolts that 
>> hold the arms to the spindle and despite penetrating oil and a big lever 
>> the bolt/s won't budge? If this is the case, that's very, very weird 
>> unless 
>> you've left the bike outside for years near a large body of salt water. 
>> In 
>> decades of removing square taper crank arms from spindles I've never 
>> found 
>> one that has seized.
>>
>> In any event, I'd be careful when using a breaker bar.
>>
>> Please keep us informed.
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] An attempted RoadUno reconfiguration failure

Philip after shortening chain and putting on a new 19t WI freewheel , did 
you use the Melvin, the Dura Ace or nothing as a tensioner?...since you're 
just shifting between the 2 front chainrings?

On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 4:24:35 PM UTC-5 Edwin W wrote:

> Bill,
>
> If god wanted you to use a tensioner with a single speed, she wouldn't 
> have created track ends. 
>
> Seriously, I will be interested to hear how this shakes out, and what you 
> discover, as it is a bit baffling why a multi gear freewheel will work and 
> a single speed freewheel would not. 
>
> Edwin
>
> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 3:39:28 PM UTC-5 philip@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> That's interesting Bill. 
>>
>> While finishing mine this week I ran into the same or similar issue using 
>> an 8pd chain, Paul Melvin and a White Industries 46/38 upfront.
>>
>> The freewheel in question was old and not great, mind you.
>>
>> I tried using an old Dura Ace RD instead of the Melvin. Same issue.
>>
>> I replaced the shitty freewheel with a new White Industries 19T and 
>> reduced the chain to the shortest length I could get away with and still 
>> shift gears smoothly in the stand.
>>
>> I've only ridden it around a few blocks, unloaded, so far, but it's now 
>> as smooth as smooth could be.
>>
>> I'm surious to see, based on your experience, if it feels the same way 
>> tomorrow on its maiden, longer voyage... I'll throw a few things in the 
>> basket just to load it down some and put it through its paces properly...
>>
>> On Thu, Sep 26, 2024 at 11:54 AM Bill Lindsay  wrote:
>>
>>> My first instantiation of my 58cm RoadUno was as a 14-speed, as 
>>> immortalized in Will's email update.  I used my wheel set which has a 
>>> customized 120mm O.L.D. cassette hub which fits 7 cogs from a 9 speed 
>>> cassette, updated with 10-speed spacers on what was traditionally a 5-speed 
>>> spaced rear hub.  Naturally we call it 7of9with10on5.  
>>>
>>> I had it set up that way for a Mount Diablo Summit, and having done 
>>> that, I wanted to reconfigure it with the stock wheels for normal city 
>>> use.  I put the stock Saint Jump wheels on there, with a White Industries 
>>> freewheel, using my Suntour rear derailleur as a tensioner.  
>>>
>>> Pics prove it:
>>> https://flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/54022678302/in/dateposted/
>>>
>>> Problem was that in the stand, the chain was wanting to rise off the cog 
>>> on my brand new DOS ENO freewheel.  It was worse on the 19 than the 16, but 
>>> clearly it wanted to rise off on both of them just pedaling.  Weird.  I 
>>> attributed it in part to the goopy factory lube on a brand-new SRAM 870 
>>> chain, and lubed it up and went to bed.  In the morning, I tried it out in 
>>> the stand again and it was still riding up the cog.  I went into my 
>>> freewheel box and found a USED White Industries single freewheel, 18T, and 
>>> fired that on.  In the stand, that was perfecto, and that's what is in the 
>>> photograph linked above.  
>>>
>>> I rode down the hill that night to the local family grocery store for 
>>> cilantro and few mushrooms for a soup.  Turning back up the hill, 
>>> DISASTER.  Under load, the same riding up and skipping was happening.  I 
>>> took the most shallow slope back up the 400ft hill to my house, and put the 
>>> bike up in the stand.  
>>>
>>> I returned the 10-speed spaced chain on there, that I had been using 
>>> with my 7of9with10on5 configuration, and rode that around the block.  Same 
>>> skipping under load.  
>>>
>>> I called it a failure and put the 7speed rear wheel back on, which is 
>>> still perfecto.  
>>>
>>> My top hypothesis is that in a tensioner configuration, the system wants 
>>> more tension from the tensioner than my 35 year old Suntour RD is 
>>> providing.  I may experiment with shortening the chain to the minimum 
>>> length for the two-speed configuration.  Some Suntour Rear Derailleurs have 
>>> two different holes for the spring, so one can effectively make the spring 
>>> a little stronger.  That would be experiment #2.  Finally, I may borrow the 
>>> Paul Melvin from my 3x1 Romulus, to see if that's a far better tensioner.  
>>> That Romulus 3x1 drivetrain has been perfect.  For now it's a two speed, 
>>> but it is running on the 18T cog of a 7sp cassette.  
>>>
>>> Maybe this is all just the universe telling me to buy a purple anodized 
>>> Melvin?
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/5775d82f-b98d-4d7a-9c02-937c054b50fan%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>>

[RBW] Re: An attempted RoadUno reconfiguration failure

2024-09-26 Thread Dan


Have you been reading Bike Snob? He had the same skipping issue, and it 
boiled down to a worn freewheel. It went away when the freewheel was 
replaced. 
On Friday 27 September 2024 at 04:24:29 UTC+9:30 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> My first instantiation of my 58cm RoadUno was as a 14-speed, as 
> immortalized in Will's email update.  I used my wheel set which has a 
> customized 120mm O.L.D. cassette hub which fits 7 cogs from a 9 speed 
> cassette, updated with 10-speed spacers on what was traditionally a 5-speed 
> spaced rear hub.  Naturally we call it 7of9with10on5.  
>
> I had it set up that way for a Mount Diablo Summit, and having done that, 
> I wanted to reconfigure it with the stock wheels for normal city use.  I 
> put the stock Saint Jump wheels on there, with a White Industries 
> freewheel, using my Suntour rear derailleur as a tensioner.  
>
> Pics prove it:
> https://flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/54022678302/in/dateposted/
>
> Problem was that in the stand, the chain was wanting to rise off the cog 
> on my brand new DOS ENO freewheel.  It was worse on the 19 than the 16, but 
> clearly it wanted to rise off on both of them just pedaling.  Weird.  I 
> attributed it in part to the goopy factory lube on a brand-new SRAM 870 
> chain, and lubed it up and went to bed.  In the morning, I tried it out in 
> the stand again and it was still riding up the cog.  I went into my 
> freewheel box and found a USED White Industries single freewheel, 18T, and 
> fired that on.  In the stand, that was perfecto, and that's what is in the 
> photograph linked above.  
>
> I rode down the hill that night to the local family grocery store for 
> cilantro and few mushrooms for a soup.  Turning back up the hill, DISASTER. 
>  Under load, the same riding up and skipping was happening.  I took the 
> most shallow slope back up the 400ft hill to my house, and put the bike up 
> in the stand.  
>
> I returned the 10-speed spaced chain on there, that I had been using with 
> my 7of9with10on5 configuration, and rode that around the block.  Same 
> skipping under load.  
>
> I called it a failure and put the 7speed rear wheel back on, which is 
> still perfecto.  
>
> My top hypothesis is that in a tensioner configuration, the system wants 
> more tension from the tensioner than my 35 year old Suntour RD is 
> providing.  I may experiment with shortening the chain to the minimum 
> length for the two-speed configuration.  Some Suntour Rear Derailleurs have 
> two different holes for the spring, so one can effectively make the spring 
> a little stronger.  That would be experiment #2.  Finally, I may borrow the 
> Paul Melvin from my 3x1 Romulus, to see if that's a far better tensioner. 
>  That Romulus 3x1 drivetrain has been perfect.  For now it's a two speed, 
> but it is running on the 18T cog of a 7sp cassette.  
>
> Maybe this is all just the universe telling me to buy a purple anodized 
> Melvin?
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>

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Re: [RBW] An attempted RoadUno reconfiguration failure

Although I guess, with an 8-tooth jump on the front you do have to have 
some kind of tensioner

On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 4:53:09 PM UTC-5 Ryan wrote:

> Philip after shortening chain and putting on a new 19t WI freewheel , did 
> you use the Melvin, the Dura Ace or nothing as a tensioner?...since you're 
> just shifting between the 2 front chainrings?
>
> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 4:24:35 PM UTC-5 Edwin W wrote:
>
>> Bill,
>>
>> If god wanted you to use a tensioner with a single speed, she wouldn't 
>> have created track ends. 
>>
>> Seriously, I will be interested to hear how this shakes out, and what you 
>> discover, as it is a bit baffling why a multi gear freewheel will work and 
>> a single speed freewheel would not. 
>>
>> Edwin
>>
>> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 3:39:28 PM UTC-5 philip@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> That's interesting Bill. 
>>>
>>> While finishing mine this week I ran into the same or similar issue 
>>> using an 8pd chain, Paul Melvin and a White Industries 46/38 upfront.
>>>
>>> The freewheel in question was old and not great, mind you.
>>>
>>> I tried using an old Dura Ace RD instead of the Melvin. Same issue.
>>>
>>> I replaced the shitty freewheel with a new White Industries 19T and 
>>> reduced the chain to the shortest length I could get away with and still 
>>> shift gears smoothly in the stand.
>>>
>>> I've only ridden it around a few blocks, unloaded, so far, but it's now 
>>> as smooth as smooth could be.
>>>
>>> I'm surious to see, based on your experience, if it feels the same way 
>>> tomorrow on its maiden, longer voyage... I'll throw a few things in the 
>>> basket just to load it down some and put it through its paces properly...
>>>
>>> On Thu, Sep 26, 2024 at 11:54 AM Bill Lindsay  wrote:
>>>
 My first instantiation of my 58cm RoadUno was as a 14-speed, as 
 immortalized in Will's email update.  I used my wheel set which has a 
 customized 120mm O.L.D. cassette hub which fits 7 cogs from a 9 speed 
 cassette, updated with 10-speed spacers on what was traditionally a 
 5-speed 
 spaced rear hub.  Naturally we call it 7of9with10on5.  

 I had it set up that way for a Mount Diablo Summit, and having done 
 that, I wanted to reconfigure it with the stock wheels for normal city 
 use.  I put the stock Saint Jump wheels on there, with a White Industries 
 freewheel, using my Suntour rear derailleur as a tensioner.  

 Pics prove it:
 https://flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/54022678302/in/dateposted/

 Problem was that in the stand, the chain was wanting to rise off the 
 cog on my brand new DOS ENO freewheel.  It was worse on the 19 than the 
 16, 
 but clearly it wanted to rise off on both of them just pedaling.  Weird.  
 I 
 attributed it in part to the goopy factory lube on a brand-new SRAM 870 
 chain, and lubed it up and went to bed.  In the morning, I tried it out in 
 the stand again and it was still riding up the cog.  I went into my 
 freewheel box and found a USED White Industries single freewheel, 18T, and 
 fired that on.  In the stand, that was perfecto, and that's what is in the 
 photograph linked above.  

 I rode down the hill that night to the local family grocery store for 
 cilantro and few mushrooms for a soup.  Turning back up the hill, 
 DISASTER.  Under load, the same riding up and skipping was happening.  I 
 took the most shallow slope back up the 400ft hill to my house, and put 
 the 
 bike up in the stand.  

 I returned the 10-speed spaced chain on there, that I had been using 
 with my 7of9with10on5 configuration, and rode that around the block.  Same 
 skipping under load.  

 I called it a failure and put the 7speed rear wheel back on, which is 
 still perfecto.  

 My top hypothesis is that in a tensioner configuration, the system 
 wants more tension from the tensioner than my 35 year old Suntour RD is 
 providing.  I may experiment with shortening the chain to the minimum 
 length for the two-speed configuration.  Some Suntour Rear Derailleurs 
 have 
 two different holes for the spring, so one can effectively make the spring 
 a little stronger.  That would be experiment #2.  Finally, I may borrow 
 the 
 Paul Melvin from my 3x1 Romulus, to see if that's a far better tensioner.  
 That Romulus 3x1 drivetrain has been perfect.  For now it's a two speed, 
 but it is running on the 18T cog of a 7sp cassette.  

 Maybe this is all just the universe telling me to buy a purple anodized 
 Melvin?

 Bill Lindsay
 El Cerrito, CA

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 Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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 To v

Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Quick release saddle bag holder

2024-09-26 Thread Ray Varella

If anyone else has one they want to sell, I could use one. 

Thank you 
Ray

On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 6:35:19 PM UTC-7 ericf3 wrote:

>
>> I have one and just love it. Not for sale, sorry
>
>

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[RBW] Re: An attempted RoadUno reconfiguration failure

2024-09-26 Thread Stephen Durfee

Bill, I'm not familiar with the DOS ENO freewheel and I don't have a 
Roaduno or other single, but I'm SS curious, and I've read your musings on 
the system you ran on a Crust LB, where you combined the 16/19 with 35/38 
chainrings, and it sounded like a very cool and clever set-up as it 
eliminated the need for a derailleur or chain tensioner. 

Is it possible to rebuild your existing freewheel with new rings?  Also, 
since the 16/19 configuration is no longer available, is it possible to 
(cost, not-withstanding) customize a freewheel, maybe to disassemble a 
16/18 and a 17/19 and turn them into a 16/19? 

On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 10:15:02 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Thanks for all the responses offering suggestions.  I'm comfortable with 
> the general approach of debugging complex systems.  When a complex system 
> works, it means ten different subsystems work.  When a complex system does 
> not work, it could be any number of those subsystems not working.  
>
> Anyway, here's what I did:
>
> I took "perfect drivetrain" 3x1 Romulus down and put it in the stand
> I noted it has the identical PC870 chain as the RoadUno
> I removed the 18T White Industries ENO freewheel from the Romulus 
> I removed the questionable used 18T White Industries ENO freewheel from 
> the RoadUno rear wheel
> I installed questionable ENO freewheel onto the Romulus wheel and rode it 
> around the block --> bad skipping
> I installed the known good ENO freewheel onto the RoadUno and rode it 
> around the block --> perfecto
> I finished up the RoadUno into its 2x1 configuration
> I disassembled the "bad" 18T ENO freewheel and will start shopping for a 
> new drive ring from White Industries
> I installed the brand new 16/19 DOS ENO onto the Romulus --> bad skipping 
> in the stand
> I installed a 16T Sturmey Archer freewheel onto the Romulus and rode that 
> around the block --> perfecto
>
> So, I had TWO bad White Industries freewheels.  The 18T ENO I bought used, 
> and didn't pay much, and it's just toast.  No problem I'll buy a new drive 
> ring for it and it'll be good as new.  It's a good opportunity to buy a 
> different tooth-count.  The 16/19 was one I bought new from White 
> Industries, and it was the LAST 16/19 they ever sold.  I suspect it was a 
> drive ring they had laying around and it's actually out of spec with 
> THICKER teeth than normal so a derailleur chain doesn't fit great on it. 
>  It has other manufacturing glitches on it.  Maybe I can get them to give 
> me a 16/18 DOS ENO drive ring on warranty.  I'll do some measurements first 
> and decide how to proceed.  Either way, weird, but my bikes are all sound.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 3:17:34 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> My first freewheel was a brand-new DOS ENO 16/19 and that was super bad 
>> in the stand with respect to wanting to climb up off the teeth.  
>>
>> I've got lots of freewheels to experiment with, so that'll be on the 
>> list.  
>>
>> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 2:57:36 PM UTC-7 Dan wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Have you been reading Bike Snob? He had the same skipping issue, and it 
>>> boiled down to a worn freewheel. It went away when the freewheel was 
>>> replaced. 
>>> On Friday 27 September 2024 at 04:24:29 UTC+9:30 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
 My first instantiation of my 58cm RoadUno was as a 14-speed, as 
 immortalized in Will's email update.  I used my wheel set which has a 
 customized 120mm O.L.D. cassette hub which fits 7 cogs from a 9 speed 
 cassette, updated with 10-speed spacers on what was traditionally a 
 5-speed 
 spaced rear hub.  Naturally we call it 7of9with10on5.  

 I had it set up that way for a Mount Diablo Summit, and having done 
 that, I wanted to reconfigure it with the stock wheels for normal city 
 use. 
  I put the stock Saint Jump wheels on there, with a White Industries 
 freewheel, using my Suntour rear derailleur as a tensioner.  

 Pics prove it:
 https://flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/54022678302/in/dateposted/

 Problem was that in the stand, the chain was wanting to rise off the 
 cog on my brand new DOS ENO freewheel.  It was worse on the 19 than the 
 16, 
 but clearly it wanted to rise off on both of them just pedaling.  Weird.  
 I 
 attributed it in part to the goopy factory lube on a brand-new SRAM 870 
 chain, and lubed it up and went to bed.  In the morning, I tried it out in 
 the stand again and it was still riding up the cog.  I went into my 
 freewheel box and found a USED White Industries single freewheel, 18T, and 
 fired that on.  In the stand, that was perfecto, and that's what is in the 
 photograph linked above.  

 I rode down the hill that night to the local family grocery store for 
 cilantro and few mushrooms for a soup.  Turning back up the hill, 
 DISASTER. 
  Under load, the same riding

Re: [RBW] An attempted RoadUno reconfiguration failure

2024-09-26 Thread Edwin W

Bill,

If god wanted you to use a tensioner with a single speed, she wouldn't have 
created track ends. 

Seriously, I will be interested to hear how this shakes out, and what you 
discover, as it is a bit baffling why a multi gear freewheel will work and 
a single speed freewheel would not. 

Edwin

On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 3:39:28 PM UTC-5 philip@gmail.com 
wrote:

> That's interesting Bill. 
>
> While finishing mine this week I ran into the same or similar issue using 
> an 8pd chain, Paul Melvin and a White Industries 46/38 upfront.
>
> The freewheel in question was old and not great, mind you.
>
> I tried using an old Dura Ace RD instead of the Melvin. Same issue.
>
> I replaced the shitty freewheel with a new White Industries 19T and 
> reduced the chain to the shortest length I could get away with and still 
> shift gears smoothly in the stand.
>
> I've only ridden it around a few blocks, unloaded, so far, but it's now as 
> smooth as smooth could be.
>
> I'm surious to see, based on your experience, if it feels the same way 
> tomorrow on its maiden, longer voyage... I'll throw a few things in the 
> basket just to load it down some and put it through its paces properly...
>
> On Thu, Sep 26, 2024 at 11:54 AM Bill Lindsay  wrote:
>
>> My first instantiation of my 58cm RoadUno was as a 14-speed, as 
>> immortalized in Will's email update.  I used my wheel set which has a 
>> customized 120mm O.L.D. cassette hub which fits 7 cogs from a 9 speed 
>> cassette, updated with 10-speed spacers on what was traditionally a 5-speed 
>> spaced rear hub.  Naturally we call it 7of9with10on5.  
>>
>> I had it set up that way for a Mount Diablo Summit, and having done that, 
>> I wanted to reconfigure it with the stock wheels for normal city use.  I 
>> put the stock Saint Jump wheels on there, with a White Industries 
>> freewheel, using my Suntour rear derailleur as a tensioner.  
>>
>> Pics prove it:
>> https://flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/54022678302/in/dateposted/
>>
>> Problem was that in the stand, the chain was wanting to rise off the cog 
>> on my brand new DOS ENO freewheel.  It was worse on the 19 than the 16, but 
>> clearly it wanted to rise off on both of them just pedaling.  Weird.  I 
>> attributed it in part to the goopy factory lube on a brand-new SRAM 870 
>> chain, and lubed it up and went to bed.  In the morning, I tried it out in 
>> the stand again and it was still riding up the cog.  I went into my 
>> freewheel box and found a USED White Industries single freewheel, 18T, and 
>> fired that on.  In the stand, that was perfecto, and that's what is in the 
>> photograph linked above.  
>>
>> I rode down the hill that night to the local family grocery store for 
>> cilantro and few mushrooms for a soup.  Turning back up the hill, 
>> DISASTER.  Under load, the same riding up and skipping was happening.  I 
>> took the most shallow slope back up the 400ft hill to my house, and put the 
>> bike up in the stand.  
>>
>> I returned the 10-speed spaced chain on there, that I had been using with 
>> my 7of9with10on5 configuration, and rode that around the block.  Same 
>> skipping under load.  
>>
>> I called it a failure and put the 7speed rear wheel back on, which is 
>> still perfecto.  
>>
>> My top hypothesis is that in a tensioner configuration, the system wants 
>> more tension from the tensioner than my 35 year old Suntour RD is 
>> providing.  I may experiment with shortening the chain to the minimum 
>> length for the two-speed configuration.  Some Suntour Rear Derailleurs have 
>> two different holes for the spring, so one can effectively make the spring 
>> a little stronger.  That would be experiment #2.  Finally, I may borrow the 
>> Paul Melvin from my 3x1 Romulus, to see if that's a far better tensioner.  
>> That Romulus 3x1 drivetrain has been perfect.  For now it's a two speed, 
>> but it is running on the 18T cog of a 7sp cassette.  
>>
>> Maybe this is all just the universe telling me to buy a purple anodized 
>> Melvin?
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/5775d82f-b98d-4d7a-9c02-937c054b50fan%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
> —
>
> Philip M. Watts
> (917) 514 2207 <(917)%20514-2207>
>
> —
>

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Re: [RBW] 2019 Clem Smith H

2024-09-26 Thread Garth

Yeah, like how long of a breaker bar have you used ? A 22-24" with a 3/8" 
or 1/2" drive plus allen head attachment works wonders. Well greased 
threads on the bolts ? 

On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 4:47:13 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> To All: What might make the crank bolt seize in the spindle? This 
> situation is entirely outside of my experience, which goes back to the late 
> 1960s.
>
> I've used allen-head crank bolts myself, but only after tightening the 
> crank arms onto the spindle with hex-head bolts -- in other words, I 
> installed the allen-head bolts for looks. I can't imagine tightening allen 
> head crank bolts harder than hex head bolts, and I've never had hex bolts 
> seize. Even after I forgot to lube them.
>
> Patrick "beats me" Moore
>
>
> On Thu, Sep 26, 2024 at 2:41 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> Thank you for clarifying the problem.
>>
>> I have to say: I am flabbergasted; I've never -- again, in decades of 
>> removing square taper cranks -- had a problem.
>>
>> I'm sorry if this seems flippant, but I'm serious. Contrary to my earlier 
>> warning, me, if I were faced with this problem, I'd get a *longer* breaker 
>> bar.
>>
>> And, next time, I'd use hex-head bolts to re-attach the crank arm/s to 
>> the spindle.
>>
>> On Thu, Sep 26, 2024 at 2:10 PM Dennis Wong  wrote:
>>
> Hi Patrick,
>>>
>>> I can't remove this bolt (not my Clem).  Sorry for the over-sized photo.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 12:43:25 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
 Is this the scene: you have removed the crank attachment bolts and you 
 screw a Park or VAR or Pedros crank removal tool into the threaded 
 crankarm 
 and torque it hard to back the arm off the spindle.

 If "yes," HALT: make sure you've removed the crank bolt washers from 
 the socket before threading in the crank removal tool! (I've failed to do 
 that and removed the crank arm threading instead.)

 Or, is this the scene: you are trying to remove the crank bolts that 
 hold the arms to the spindle and despite penetrating oil and a big lever 
 the bolt/s won't budge? If this is the case, that's very, very weird 
 unless 
 you've left the bike outside for years near a large body of salt water. In 
 decades of removing square taper crank arms from spindles I've never found 
 one that has seized.

 In any event, I'd be careful when using a breaker bar.

 Please keep us informed.

>>>

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[RBW] Re: Asking for your opinion on locking up a Riv

2024-09-26 Thread Corwin Zechar

I second most of what has been said by others. Nice bikes are meant to be 
ridden. Investing in a good solution for locking up your bike is wise - but 
not fool proof. I have lost saddles and other stuff from bikes that were 
locked up. I have invested in Kryptonite Faghettaboudit locks, Hiploks, and 
square link boron chains with heavy Mul-t-lock padlocks. But if someone 
really wants your bike, they're going to get it. They will bring angle 
grinders, pry bars, etc. to defeat your security solution.

I have used group parking facilities in the past. My first Rivendell Custom 
lived in one for about ten years. The downside of group parking facilities 
is that people can piggy-back on others entering the facility, linger after 
others leave and steal bikes.

The best option I have found, by far, is individual bike lockers. They are 
not widely available (probably should be), but they greatly simplify the 
problem. In the San Francisco Bay Area, you can rent a bike locker from 
https://www.bikelink.org/ for $0.03 - 0.05/hour. No need to carry a heavy 
lock or chain when you have access to bike lockers.

I realize most people outside the Bay Area do not have the option of bike 
lockers. But if enough of a ruckus were made, bike lockers could become 
widely available.

Regards,

Corwin
On Tuesday, September 24, 2024 at 2:51:32 PM UTC-7 anthony...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Hi! I posted a while back asking for advice on what Riv model would fit me 
> and where I could try them. A month after visiting Riv HQ, I bought a used 
> homer, which is arriving tomorrow!
>
> Anyway the point of this post was to ask your opinion on this particular 
> situation. I commute to my university classes and intend on using the homer 
> for that. There's an indoor bike locker that is accessible to the public 
> (do not need student or faculty IDs to get in) and I was planning on 
> locking it up there. I will be using a chain lock for the front tire and 
> the frame and a u-lock for the rear wheel and frame (possibly a cable loop 
> for the seat as well). This room has a security camera but no active 
> security personnel.
>
> At most I would leave the bike there for 2 hours or so, would you risk 
> this? I know that ultimately this risk is up to me to live with, but I 
> wanted to hear some of your thoughts. I have attached a picture of the bike 
> locker! Thanks in advance!
>
> [image: Indoor Bike Parking - DSIT : r/ufl]
>

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[RBW] Re: 1x11 MMM - what am I doing wrong?

Your bike just isn't made to work with that drivetrain.  Look at basically 
any other bike on earth and see where the center of the rear hub is 
relative to the chainstay.  They are pretty much on the same level.  On the 
MMM the modified horizontal dropout holds the rear axle about 15mm below 
the chainstay, so the chain is going to rub if you try to ride the bike 
with both a small chainring and a small cog.  

It's just not a good drivetrain choice for that frame set.  You'd want a 
normal vertical dropout on the MMM to accommodate a 1x drivetrain.  

Those dropouts were the one thing I didn't like about the MMM.  I'd still 
buy mine back if it was offered to me, but the dropouts were a negative. 

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA
On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 7:34:23 PM UTC-7 maxcr wrote:

> I finally took the xtracycle off the mmm and found some time to work on my 
> build.
>
> My amateur mechanic plan to build it up as a 1x11 was: White Industries 
> front crank, 36 TSR chainring and a SLX 11 speed 11-42 cassette and a 
> Shimano GRX RD-RX812.
>
> Take a look at the picture below. For some reason the chain hits the 
> chainstay close to the cassette when it's on the small cog. It's like the 
> chainstay should be lower. Any ideas what might be going on?
>
> The frame looks straight, the chainline on a 110 phil bb seems to be 
> around 45.5mm. I tried a different wheel, a 9 speed 11-32 cassette and a 
> larger chainring but it doesn't work.
>
> Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
>
> Max in Boston
>
>
> [image: IMG_9772.jpeg]
>

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Re: [RBW] 2019 Clem Smith H

2024-09-26 Thread Kim H.

@Dennis,

Replacement BB for my CLEM per Richard Rose:

STR205511 -Stronglight JP 400 BSC 119mm with aluminum cups $ 56.00 
from Peter White Cycles
https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/str-bb.php

Kim Hetzel.

On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 7:49:43 PM UTC-7 wong.d...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Thanks Bill.
>
> I am going to try heating the head of the bolt with a torch.  Whack the 
> top pf the bolt with a sledge.  Soak it with PB Blaster.  If that doesn't 
> work I'll dril it out.
>
> Back to my initial question (if I screw up too badly) - any 
> recommendations on a bottom bracket?  I "think" it is a JIS 68 and a UN300 
> from the Rivendell page 
> would work.  
> Just not sure if it is a 110, 113, 115, 118 or one of the odder ones like " 
> 122.5 
> x 68, D-NL, B22X, Right +1mm"
>
> Thanks.
> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 3:25:03 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> I documented (or think I documented) that my RoadUno complete had its 
>> crank bolts SUPER tight.  I extended my long handle 8mm allen with a ~2ft 
>> length of PVC pipe.  I toe strapped the crank arm to the chainstay and 
>> leaned on it.  It released with a loud "POP" sound.  After that initial 
>> "release" it unscrewed as effortlessly as one would expect.  The threads 
>> were kind of greased but there was no grease under the head of the bolt.  I 
>> envision they used some impact wrench object to get it tight, and the 
>> binding was just friction between the underside of the head of the bolt and 
>> the aluminum of the crank arm.  That interface should be lubed, and now it 
>> is.  :)
>>
>> I have no difficulty imagining that a Clem Complete was built in a 
>> similar process.  
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA 
>>
>> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 1:47:13 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> To All: What might make the crank bolt seize in the spindle? This 
>>> situation is entirely outside of my experience, which goes back to the late 
>>> 1960s.
>>>
>>> I've used allen-head crank bolts myself, but only after tightening the 
>>> crank arms onto the spindle with hex-head bolts -- in other words, I 
>>> installed the allen-head bolts for looks. I can't imagine tightening allen 
>>> head crank bolts harder than hex head bolts, and I've never had hex bolts 
>>> seize. Even after I forgot to lube them.
>>>
>>> Patrick "beats me" Moore
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, Sep 26, 2024 at 2:41 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>>
 Thank you for clarifying the problem.

 I have to say: I am flabbergasted; I've never -- again, in decades of 
 removing square taper cranks -- had a problem.

 I'm sorry if this seems flippant, but I'm serious. Contrary to my 
 earlier warning, me, if I were faced with this problem, I'd get a 
 *longer* breaker bar.

 And, next time, I'd use hex-head bolts to re-attach the crank arm/s to 
 the spindle.

 On Thu, Sep 26, 2024 at 2:10 PM Dennis Wong  
 wrote:

>>> Hi Patrick,
>
> I can't remove this bolt (not my Clem).  Sorry for the over-sized 
> photo.
>
>
> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 12:43:25 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore 
> wrote:
>
>> Is this the scene: you have removed the crank attachment bolts and 
>> you screw a Park or VAR or Pedros crank removal tool into the threaded 
>> crankarm and torque it hard to back the arm off the spindle.
>>
>> If "yes," HALT: make sure you've removed the crank bolt washers from 
>> the socket before threading in the crank removal tool! (I've failed to 
>> do 
>> that and removed the crank arm threading instead.)
>>
>> Or, is this the scene: you are trying to remove the crank bolts that 
>> hold the arms to the spindle and despite penetrating oil and a big lever 
>> the bolt/s won't budge? If this is the case, that's very, very weird 
>> unless 
>> you've left the bike outside for years near a large body of salt water. 
>> In 
>> decades of removing square taper crank arms from spindles I've never 
>> found 
>> one that has seized.
>>
>> In any event, I'd be careful when using a breaker bar.
>>
>> Please keep us informed.
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] An attempted RoadUno reconfiguration failure

2024-09-26 Thread P W

Ryan, I stuck with the DA.Because vibes.P. W.~(917) 514-2207~On Sep 26, 2024, at 2:53 PM, Ryan  wrote:Philip after shortening chain and putting on a new 19t WI freewheel , did you use the Melvin, the Dura Ace or nothing as a tensioner?...since you're just shifting between the 2 front chainrings?On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 4:24:35 PM UTC-5 Edwin W wrote:Bill,If god wanted you to use a tensioner with a single speed, she wouldn't have created track ends. Seriously, I will be interested to hear how this shakes out, and what you discover, as it is a bit baffling why a multi gear freewheel will work and a single speed freewheel would not. EdwinOn Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 3:39:28 PM UTC-5 philip@gmail.com wrote:That's interesting Bill. While finishing mine this week I ran into the same or similar issue using an 8pd chain, Paul Melvin and a White Industries 46/38 upfront.The freewheel in question was old and not great, mind you.I tried using an old Dura Ace RD instead of the Melvin. Same issue.I replaced the shitty freewheel with a new White Industries 19T and reduced the chain to the shortest length I could get away with and still shift gears smoothly in the stand.I've only ridden it around a few blocks, unloaded, so far, but it's now as smooth as smooth could be.I'm surious to see, based on your experience, if it feels the same way tomorrow on its maiden, longer voyage... I'll throw a few things in the basket just to load it down some and put it through its paces properly...On Thu, Sep 26, 2024 at 11:54 AM Bill Lindsay  wrote:My first instantiation of my 58cm RoadUno was as a 14-speed, as immortalized in Will's email update.  I used my wheel set which has a customized 120mm O.L.D. cassette hub which fits 7 cogs from a 9 speed cassette, updated with 10-speed spacers on what was traditionally a 5-speed spaced rear hub.  Naturally we call it 7of9with10on5.  I had it set up that way for a Mount Diablo Summit, and having done that, I wanted to reconfigure it with the stock wheels for normal city use.  I put the stock Saint Jump wheels on there, with a White Industries freewheel, using my Suntour rear derailleur as a tensioner.  Pics prove it:https://flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/54022678302/in/dateposted/Problem was that in the stand, the chain was wanting to rise off the cog on my brand new DOS ENO freewheel.  It was worse on the 19 than the 16, but clearly it wanted to rise off on both of them just pedaling.  Weird.  I attributed it in part to the goopy factory lube on a brand-new SRAM 870 chain, and lubed it up and went to bed.  In the morning, I tried it out in the stand again and it was still riding up the cog.  I went into my freewheel box and found a USED White Industries single freewheel, 18T, and fired that on.  In the stand, that was perfecto, and that's what is in the photograph linked above.  I rode down the hill that night to the local family grocery store for cilantro and few mushrooms for a soup.  Turning back up the hill, DISASTER.  Under load, the same riding up and skipping was happening.  I took the most shallow slope back up the 400ft hill to my house, and put the bike up in the stand.  I returned the 10-speed spaced chain on there, that I had been using with my 7of9with10on5 configuration, and rode that around the block.  Same skipping under load.  I called it a failure and put the 7speed rear wheel back on, which is still perfecto.  My top hypothesis is that in a tensioner configuration, the system wants more tension from the tensioner than my 35 year old Suntour RD is providing.  I may experiment with shortening the chain to the minimum length for the two-speed configuration.  Some Suntour Rear Derailleurs have two different holes for the spring, so one can effectively make the spring a little stronger.  That would be experiment #2.  Finally, I may borrow the Paul Melvin from my 3x1 Romulus, to see if that's a far better tensioner.  That Romulus 3x1 drivetrain has been perfect.  For now it's a two speed, but it is running on the 18T cog of a 7sp cassette.  Maybe this is all just the universe telling me to buy a purple anodized Melvin?Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CA



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You

Re: [RBW] Haters Gonna Hate - for the "Cult-like Fanbase"