[RBW] FS: Sackville TrunkSack Small - Olive

[Manuel Acosta]

Curious..
Could find this bag on the website...

anyways..

Tried my hand in carrying lighter loads...

Couldn't do it.

Bag is a tad to small for my taste. 
or are my tastes way to big to the bag?

Beautiful beasuaged bags
Comes with stretchy cordage.
AND act now special surprise!

$90 

No pictures for once. Maybe tomorrow after this blood moon.

Manny Acosta

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Re: [RBW] Best chain lube - ever

[Deacon Patrick]

Thanks! This is actually one of the things I found in me search, and it 
makes sense to me and is certainly cost effective. It may well be the first 
wet lube I try. The main complaint I see against it is goofing up, but if 
you use sparingly (as is required for Chien-L also) and wipe off that 
should get minimized. Either way, this quarter ride in the rain/wet snow 
till a squeaky chain has got to stop.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Monday, April 14, 2014 9:28:07 PM UTC-6, jpvaliensi wrote:
>
> Hi,
> I've used it for 1000's of miles and I know others that swear by it. I put 
> a drop on each link and spin the cranks a while, and then wipe off the 
> excess. No build up of gunk.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Apr 14, 2014, at 8:17 PM, Peter Morgano > 
> wrote:
>
> Hmmm, I have bar and chain lube. stuff is crazy thick, you sure without 
> the heat of the saw it wont just gunk up?
>
>
> On Mon, Apr 14, 2014 at 11:01 PM, James Valiensi 
> > wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>> For a long lasting lube that makes your drive train quieter try "bar and 
>> chain" oil. It is for chainsaws and won't fly off the chain. You can get a 
>> quart for under $10 and it will probably last you a 100,000 miles.
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
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Re: [RBW] FS: Rare and out of production R-14 tombstone

[Curtis McKenzie]

Coconut, please make offer.  I need to move this item to fund other
projects b
On Monday, April 14, 2014, Coconutbill  wrote:

> I would be interested in it... possible to turn into a saddle grip?
>
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[RBW] Re: Best chain lube - ever

[doc]

Interesting idea.  I pay $7.00/gallon for bar oil.  They make different 
grades for colder weather, although cutting it with a little kerosene does 
the trick if it gets too sludgy.  There is also a bio-degradable brand or 
two, although I've never used it.  Now I'll need to make sure I don't get 
my Stihl wrench confused with my Crank Bros. tool.
http://gspiess.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/imag0009.jpg?w=300&h=197
 

On Monday, April 14, 2014 11:01:26 PM UTC-4, jpvaliensi wrote:

> Hi, 
> For a long lasting lube that makes your drive train quieter try "bar and 
> chain" oil. It is for chainsaws and won't fly off the chain. You can get a 
> quart for under $10 and it will probably last you a 100,000 miles. 
>
> Sent from my iPad 
>

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[RBW] Re: Best chain lube - ever

[Deacon Patrick]

O! Gravel grinding chainsaw bike jousting! Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 7:22:54 AM UTC-6, doc wrote:
>
> Interesting idea.  I pay $7.00/gallon for bar oil.  They make different 
> grades for colder weather, although cutting it with a little kerosene does 
> the trick if it gets too sludgy.  There is also a bio-degradable brand or 
> two, although I've never used it.  Now I'll need to make sure I don't get 
> my Stihl wrench confused with my Crank Bros. tool.
> http://gspiess.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/imag0009.jpg?w=300&h=197
>  
>
> On Monday, April 14, 2014 11:01:26 PM UTC-4, jpvaliensi wrote:
>
>> Hi, 
>> For a long lasting lube that makes your drive train quieter try "bar and 
>> chain" oil. It is for chainsaws and won't fly off the chain. You can get a 
>> quart for under $10 and it will probably last you a 100,000 miles. 
>>
>> Sent from my iPad 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Best chain lube - ever

[Chris in Redding, Ca.]

Hey All,
Been using bar oil for my chains and other stuff for over 20 years. It 
works just fine and is cheap. I say give it a try.
Chris
Redding, Ca.

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[RBW] Re: Best chain lube - ever

[Deacon Patrick]

Great to hear, Chris! Redding, CA isn't particularly known as a wet area, 
correct? Presuming it's mostly dry, dusty riding where you are and since 
you love the bar oil, that goes against the conventional wisdom (which is 
so often wrong), that sounds like exactly what I'm looking for. Does it 
much matter what brand?

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 8:03:02 AM UTC-6, Chris in Redding, Ca. wrote:
>
> Hey All,
> Been using bar oil for my chains and other stuff for over 20 years. It 
> works just fine and is cheap. I say give it a try.
> Chris
> Redding, Ca.
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Rare and out of production R-14 tombstone

[Andy.M]

I love this group
-A

On Monday, April 14, 2014 2:55:28 PM UTC-7, Curtis wrote:
>
> Here is your opportunity to own the now hard to acquire R-14 tombstone. 
> This item was expertly removed from the rack and is in like new condition. 
> Asking only $12.42 which includes shipping and one meter of duct tape for 
> easy installation.  
>
> Curtis "hacksaw"McKenzie
>

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[RBW] FS/ FT Brooks Champion Flyer, brown

[Michael Williams]

Hey group for sale is a Brooks Champion flyer,  brown with black steel 
rails/ springs.   Its basically new,  ridden a few times.   Asking $90 
including shipping.  Please contact off list.  thanks!   -Mike

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[RBW] Re: FS pricing assistance S&S couplers

[Tony DeFilippo]

Michael, got any pictures of your converted trek!?! Sounds like a Sweet ride!

Tony

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Re: [RBW] FS: Rare and out of production R-14 tombstone

[Minh]

>
> Hmm i have an R14 missing a tombstone!   
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Best chain lube - ever

[Montclair BobbyB]

After years of experimenting with Nashbar wax-in-a-can, my own home-brew 
wax with PFTE, every imaginable dry-lube, ice wax, etc.. I have come to the 
conclusion that I mostly wasted my time, and that a basic general lube is 
best... I now use compressor oil (although I think I may try bar oil... 
that is, in about 5 years when my quart of compressor oil finally runs 
out.. :)



On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 10:03:02 AM UTC-4, Chris in Redding, Ca. wrote:
>
> Hey All,
> Been using bar oil for my chains and other stuff for over 20 years. It 
> works just fine and is cheap. I say give it a try.
> Chris
> Redding, Ca.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Best chain lube - ever

[Jim Bronson]

Is there any particular brand of chainsaw oil that is recommended?

I just get whatever the store brand is at my local big box store for the
actual chainsaw.  It's about $3 for a quart, IIRC.  I think I've got some
squallmart SuperTech right now.  More than what Doc pays for it but I'd
probably take 15-20 years go through a gallon of bar oil in my usage
scenario, e.g., a homeowner trimming branches off of large trees.


On Tue, Apr 15, 2014 at 9:03 AM, Chris in Redding, Ca. <
campredd...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hey All,
> Been using bar oil for my chains and other stuff for over 20 years. It
> works just fine and is cheap. I say give it a try.
> Chris
> Redding, Ca.
>
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Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down!

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[RBW] Re: Chain lube/wax

[Deacon Patrick]

I just called and asked for a sample of Dumonde's Original and they are 
sending me one, so I'll report back how it goes. I plan on using it on the 
new cassette/chain at the end of the month.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] 7 speed cassette question

[Zack]

hey all -

i think i'd like to convert my Rivs to 7 speed cassettes.  my drivetrains 
could probably both use an overhaul, so i figure this is a great chance to 
make the switch.  I have always had some problems with ghost shifting under 
load (i have checked derailer hanger, it's straight, greased under bottom 
bracket, made sure there are no kinks, replaced worn cassette, tightened my 
silver shifters, done all the suggested things,), and want to see if this 
switch will help/eliminate and get me to "heaven".

My setup:

Shimano X7 rear hub.
Shimano Deore RD.
Sugino Xd2 triple crank
Silver shifters

I live in portland and am a big dude, and andy and chris always take me on 
rides that involve "some climbing" so I'd like to have a good bailout gear.

What do you guys recommend for a 7 speed cassette?  I understand I'd need a 
spacer and 7 speed chain to make it work, anything else?  How hard would it 
be to make the swap myself?  (I have a chain whip and the park tools 
cassette tool, I have swapped out my 8 speed cassettes before.)

Side note: why doesn't Riv sell 7 speed cassettes?  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Chain lube/wax

[Peter Morgano]

Belt drive/Roholoff comes to mind as a possibility down the road, no
grease, no oiling. Expensive upfront costs but seems like an awesome setup
for worry free riding.
On Apr 14, 2014 8:27 PM, "Deacon Patrick"  wrote:

> I'm intrigued by Dumonde's Original and may try it first. It's the same
> concept as wax, but with a self-lubricating polymer as its base.
>
> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EO19MY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=LU7NJJJ1Q6U&coliid=I18KBXXNXGTA2F&psc=1
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
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[RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Deacon Patrick]

Zack,

Here is a Shimano 7-speed 13t-34t cassette I've wondered about, but I'm not 
sure if it is up to Deore XT quality:
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-HG50-7-Speed-Cassette/dp/B00393913M

I've been wondering if the answer to simplicity I'm seeking may be going 
with seven speed rather than dropping a front ring, so I'm right there with 
you in your questions.

It's a 7/8 speed chain that Riv sells, so no change needed there other than 
you should start with a fresh chain with a fresh cassette.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 11:46:40 AM UTC-6, Zack wrote:
>
> hey all -
>
> i think i'd like to convert my Rivs to 7 speed cassettes.  my drivetrains 
> could probably both use an overhaul, so i figure this is a great chance to 
> make the switch.  I have always had some problems with ghost shifting under 
> load (i have checked derailer hanger, it's straight, greased under bottom 
> bracket, made sure there are no kinks, replaced worn cassette, tightened my 
> silver shifters, done all the suggested things,), and want to see if this 
> switch will help/eliminate and get me to "heaven".
>
> My setup:
>
> Shimano X7 rear hub.
> Shimano Deore RD.
> Sugino Xd2 triple crank
> Silver shifters
>
> I live in portland and am a big dude, and andy and chris always take me on 
> rides that involve "some climbing" so I'd like to have a good bailout gear.
>
> What do you guys recommend for a 7 speed cassette?  I understand I'd need 
> a spacer and 7 speed chain to make it work, anything else?  How hard would 
> it be to make the swap myself?  (I have a chain whip and the park tools 
> cassette tool, I have swapped out my 8 speed cassettes before.)
>
> Side note: why doesn't Riv sell 7 speed cassettes?  
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Steve Palincsar]

On 04/15/2014 01:58 PM, Deacon Patrick wrote:

Zack,

Here is a Shimano 7-speed 13t-34t cassette I've wondered about, but 
I'm not sure if it is up to Deore XT quality:

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-HG50-7-Speed-Cassette/dp/B00393913M


HG50 is below the XT level.  That used to be 60 or 70, I can't recall 
which, but those have been discontinued for a while.  The difference is 
either entirely or almost entirely cosmetic: the higher level cassettes 
had chromed sprockets rather than black.




I've been wondering if the answer to simplicity I'm seeking may be 
going with seven speed rather than dropping a front ring, so I'm right 
there with you in your questions.




7 is great.


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Re: [RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Tim Gavin]

You can use your existing chain on a 7 speed cassette with no problem.
 It's only a problem going the other way: 6/7/8 speed chain is too wide for
9/10/11 speed cassettes.


On Tue, Apr 15, 2014 at 12:58 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> Zack,
>
> Here is a Shimano 7-speed 13t-34t cassette I've wondered about, but I'm
> not sure if it is up to Deore XT quality:
> http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-HG50-7-Speed-Cassette/dp/B00393913M
>
> I've been wondering if the answer to simplicity I'm seeking may be going
> with seven speed rather than dropping a front ring, so I'm right there with
> you in your questions.
>
> It's a 7/8 speed chain that Riv sells, so no change needed there other
> than you should start with a fresh chain with a fresh cassette.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
>
> On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 11:46:40 AM UTC-6, Zack wrote:
>>
>> hey all -
>>
>> i think i'd like to convert my Rivs to 7 speed cassettes.  my drivetrains
>> could probably both use an overhaul, so i figure this is a great chance to
>> make the switch.  I have always had some problems with ghost shifting under
>> load (i have checked derailer hanger, it's straight, greased under bottom
>> bracket, made sure there are no kinks, replaced worn cassette, tightened my
>> silver shifters, done all the suggested things,), and want to see if this
>> switch will help/eliminate and get me to "heaven".
>>
>> My setup:
>>
>> Shimano X7 rear hub.
>> Shimano Deore RD.
>> Sugino Xd2 triple crank
>> Silver shifters
>>
>> I live in portland and am a big dude, and andy and chris always take me
>> on rides that involve "some climbing" so I'd like to have a good bailout
>> gear.
>>
>> What do you guys recommend for a 7 speed cassette?  I understand I'd need
>> a spacer and 7 speed chain to make it work, anything else?  How hard would
>> it be to make the swap myself?  (I have a chain whip and the park tools
>> cassette tool, I have swapped out my 8 speed cassettes before.)
>>
>> Side note: why doesn't Riv sell 7 speed cassettes?
>>
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Re: [RBW] 7 speed cassette question

[Steve Palincsar]

On 04/15/2014 01:46 PM, Zack wrote:


What do you guys recommend for a 7 speed cassette?  I understand I'd 
need a spacer and 7 speed chain to make it work, anything else?  How 
hard would it be to make the swap myself?  (I have a chain whip and 
the park tools cassette tool, I have swapped out my 8 speed cassettes 
before.)




Depends on your gearing needs.  I like the 13-30 7 speed for my (light) 
tourer, but if I needed to carry more weight I'd use the 13-34.  That 
bike has a 48T big ring and 650B wheels, and with Hetre tires 48x13 
gives me a top gear just under 100 inches, which I consider ideal.


I have one other 650B bike that uses a 39/53 double and a 14-32 7 speed 
cassette.  53x14 with a 650Bx38 tire also works out to just under 100" 
top gear.



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[RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Deacon Patrick]

Zack, I confirmed with Harris Cyclery that it is lower than the XT range. 
Here is the Harris 
link: 
http://harriscyclery.net/product/shimano-7-speed-cassette-hg50-13-34t-2847.htm

Steve, if the difference is entirely cosmetic, I have no problem using it. 
Do you say this from personal experience?

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 11:46:40 AM UTC-6, Zack wrote:
>
> hey all -
>
> i think i'd like to convert my Rivs to 7 speed cassettes.  my drivetrains 
> could probably both use an overhaul, so i figure this is a great chance to 
> make the switch.  I have always had some problems with ghost shifting under 
> load (i have checked derailer hanger, it's straight, greased under bottom 
> bracket, made sure there are no kinks, replaced worn cassette, tightened my 
> silver shifters, done all the suggested things,), and want to see if this 
> switch will help/eliminate and get me to "heaven".
>
> My setup:
>
> Shimano X7 rear hub.
> Shimano Deore RD.
> Sugino Xd2 triple crank
> Silver shifters
>
> I live in portland and am a big dude, and andy and chris always take me on 
> rides that involve "some climbing" so I'd like to have a good bailout gear.
>
> What do you guys recommend for a 7 speed cassette?  I understand I'd need 
> a spacer and 7 speed chain to make it work, anything else?  How hard would 
> it be to make the swap myself?  (I have a chain whip and the park tools 
> cassette tool, I have swapped out my 8 speed cassettes before.)
>
> Side note: why doesn't Riv sell 7 speed cassettes?  
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Chain lube/wax

[Matthew J]

Or even better - belt drive SS.

On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 12:51:01 PM UTC-5, Peter M wrote:
>
> Belt drive/Roholoff comes to mind as a possibility down the road, no 
> grease, no oiling. Expensive upfront costs but seems like an awesome setup 
> for worry free riding. 
> On Apr 14, 2014 8:27 PM, "Deacon Patrick" > 
> wrote:
>
>> I'm intrigued by Dumonde's Original and may try it first. It's the same 
>> concept as wax, but with a self-lubricating polymer as its base.
>>
>> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EO19MY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=LU7NJJJ1Q6U&coliid=I18KBXXNXGTA2F&psc=1
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
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>  

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Re: [RBW] 7 speed cassette question

[Jim Bronson]

Why not just go 8 speed if you are shifting friction anyway?  8 speed gear
is far more prevalent than 7 speed gear in this day and age, and you'll
probably pay less for it than you would some relatively rare 7 speed gear.
$0.02.


On Tue, Apr 15, 2014 at 12:46 PM, Zack  wrote:

> hey all -
>
> i think i'd like to convert my Rivs to 7 speed cassettes.  my drivetrains
> could probably both use an overhaul, so i figure this is a great chance to
> make the switch.  I have always had some problems with ghost shifting under
> load (i have checked derailer hanger, it's straight, greased under bottom
> bracket, made sure there are no kinks, replaced worn cassette, tightened my
> silver shifters, done all the suggested things,), and want to see if this
> switch will help/eliminate and get me to "heaven".
>
> My setup:
>
> Shimano X7 rear hub.
> Shimano Deore RD.
> Sugino Xd2 triple crank
> Silver shifters
>
> I live in portland and am a big dude, and andy and chris always take me on
> rides that involve "some climbing" so I'd like to have a good bailout gear.
>
> What do you guys recommend for a 7 speed cassette?  I understand I'd need
> a spacer and 7 speed chain to make it work, anything else?  How hard would
> it be to make the swap myself?  (I have a chain whip and the park tools
> cassette tool, I have swapped out my 8 speed cassettes before.)
>
> Side note: why doesn't Riv sell 7 speed cassettes?
>
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[RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Zack]

I already have 8 speed cassettes, made the switch to those during the last 
drivetrain overhaul, still have the same problems. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Chain lube/wax

[Garth]

  A Belt Drive bike surely sounds wonderful !   Less maintenance = Bliss ! 
  My only possible bugaboo is the shifters , that you have to use specific 
one for each internal hub and they're usually grip shifts, which I have no 
desire to use .  Alba bars with thumbies and bar end brake levers are 
perfect for me :)   

But Hark !  I did dome searching and a thumbshifter is being released this 
year !!!  Thisis getting very interesting !  
The Cinq5 ShiftR Thumb Shifter for Rohloff Hubs 



On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 1:51:01 PM UTC-4, Peter M wrote:
>
> Belt drive/Roholoff comes to mind as a possibility down the road, no 
> grease, no oiling. Expensive upfront costs but seems like an awesome setup 
> for worry free riding. 
>
>  

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[RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Deacon Patrick]

Could you describe the problem you are having specifically? Under what 
circumstances do you ghost shift? I have some ghost shifting with my 8 
also, but I don't remember the precise circumstances under which it 
happens. It's not the biggest rear cog though, which leads me to suspect my 
ability to "hit" the sweet spot for some of the gears.

Jim is right, the downside to going 7 is their rarity. When I spoke with 
Mark at Rivendell, that's the reason he gave for them not carrying them.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 12:43:45 PM UTC-6, Zack wrote:
>
> I already have 8 speed cassettes, made the switch to those during the last 
> drivetrain overhaul, still have the same problems. 
>

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Re: [RBW] 7 speed cassette question

[Norman Bone]

Hey Jim-

Seems that the 8spd cassettes have the somewhat useless 11t cog on the 
cassettes that have the 30+ tooth big cog that I'm pretty sure that Zack 
needs/wants. However, the 7spds have 13-30 or 34 and seem to have more useful 
gears for PDX.

-Norman Bone friction shifting 9spd 13-30 in Portland





 From: Jim Bronson 
To: "rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com"  
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2014 11:37 AM
Subject: Re: [RBW] 7 speed cassette question
 


Why not just go 8 speed if you are shifting friction anyway?  8 speed gear is 
far more prevalent than 7 speed gear in this day and age, and you'll probably 
pay less for it than you would some relatively rare 7 speed gear.  $0.02.




On Tue, Apr 15, 2014 at 12:46 PM, Zack  wrote:

hey all -
>
>
>i think i'd like to convert my Rivs to 7 speed cassettes.  my drivetrains 
>could probably both use an overhaul, so i figure this is a great chance to 
>make the switch.  I have always had some problems with ghost shifting under 
>load (i have checked derailer hanger, it's straight, greased under bottom 
>bracket, made sure there are no kinks, replaced worn cassette, tightened my 
>silver shifters, done all the suggested things,), and want to see if this 
>switch will help/eliminate and get me to "heaven".
>
>
>My setup:
>
>
>Shimano X7 rear hub.
>Shimano Deore RD.
>Sugino Xd2 triple crank
>Silver shifters
>
>
>I live in portland and am a big dude, and andy and chris always take me on 
>rides that involve "some climbing" so I'd like to have a good bailout gear.
>
>
>What do you guys recommend for a 7 speed cassette?  I understand I'd need a 
>spacer and 7 speed chain to make it work, anything else?  How hard would it be 
>to make the swap myself?  (I have a chain whip and the park tools cassette 
>tool, I have swapped out my 8 speed cassettes before.)
>
>
>Side note: why doesn't Riv sell 7 speed cassettes?  
>
> -- 
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[RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Zack]

Deacon - 

I suspect most of this is due to me being "close" to being in gear but not 
actually in gear, after having eliminated all of the other known suspects 
(loose washer on silver shifters, bent derailer hanger, etc.).  It happens 
at the start of climbs, and is worse when the bike is loaded up.  It 
usually happens when I am suddenly putting more pressure on the pedals than 
a light spinning motion - like standing up to pedal, etc.  It also has the 
added impact of causing my balky knee to go through a "false top step" 
phenomenon, so it causes me some on-bike trepidation.  

I'd like to eliminate as much of it as I can by trying a new cassette and 
seeing how the 7's live.

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[RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Zack]

ahah the 11 tooth cog is indeed not used often by me - I am a master 
coasting descender due to my almost peerless ability to create momentum 
with my big size on my go-fast Rivs.  also, as Andy says, a gentleman 
doesn't pedal on descents.

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Re: [RBW] 7 speed cassette question

[Jim Bronson]

To each his own, I like my 11-30 (9 speed) and I use the 11 pretty
regularly, going downhill or in a tailwind.  I wouldn't want to give it up,
especially considering the big ring is only 46.  Granted I wouldn't mind
having the 11-34 for one particular hill on our local brevets, but
generally speaking I solve the problem by just walking up the hill!

Zack says he's a big guy, I weigh 270 and only very occasionally have a
ghost shift.  Most of the time, it shifts perfect in the back so long as I
keep things reasonably adjusted.  (The front is another story, but one I've
already had a thread about here and it seems to be specific to my crankset,
based on the feedback I got from other users).

If I was giving advice starting from scratch I wouldn't even recommend 8
speed.  The 9 speed stuff doesn't cost any more than 8 speed, in my
experience, and it uses the same hubs assuming you're running Shimano or
Shimano-compatible gear.  And you don't need the hub spacer with either
that you would with 7 speed.


On Tue, Apr 15, 2014 at 1:54 PM, Norman Bone  wrote:

> Hey Jim-
>
> Seems that the 8spd cassettes have the somewhat useless 11t cog on the
> cassettes that have the 30+ tooth big cog that I'm pretty sure that Zack
> needs/wants. However, the 7spds have 13-30 or 34 and seem to have more
> useful gears for PDX.
>
> -Norman Bone friction shifting 9spd 13-30 in Portland
>
>
>   --
>  *From:* Jim Bronson 
> *To:* "rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com" <
> rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, April 15, 2014 11:37 AM
> *Subject:* Re: [RBW] 7 speed cassette question
>
> Why not just go 8 speed if you are shifting friction anyway?  8 speed gear
> is far more prevalent than 7 speed gear in this day and age, and you'll
> probably pay less for it than you would some relatively rare 7 speed gear.
> $0.02.
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 15, 2014 at 12:46 PM, Zack  wrote:
>
> hey all -
>
> i think i'd like to convert my Rivs to 7 speed cassettes.  my drivetrains
> could probably both use an overhaul, so i figure this is a great chance to
> make the switch.  I have always had some problems with ghost shifting under
> load (i have checked derailer hanger, it's straight, greased under bottom
> bracket, made sure there are no kinks, replaced worn cassette, tightened my
> silver shifters, done all the suggested things,), and want to see if this
> switch will help/eliminate and get me to "heaven".
>
> My setup:
>
> Shimano X7 rear hub.
> Shimano Deore RD.
> Sugino Xd2 triple crank
> Silver shifters
>
> I live in portland and am a big dude, and andy and chris always take me on
> rides that involve "some climbing" so I'd like to have a good bailout gear.
>
> What do you guys recommend for a 7 speed cassette?  I understand I'd need
> a spacer and 7 speed chain to make it work, anything else?  How hard would
> it be to make the swap myself?  (I have a chain whip and the park tools
> cassette tool, I have swapped out my 8 speed cassettes before.)
>
> Side note: why doesn't Riv sell 7 speed cassettes?
>
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>
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[RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Deacon Patrick]

On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 1:01:23 PM UTC-6, Zack wrote:

>  as Andy says, a gentleman doesn't pedal on descents.
>
 
Descents on pavement often are more fun pedaling, but on dirt and single 
track, at least around here, there is very little reason to pedal unless 
your goal is to kill yourself or race. Gravity does all the work for you 
once you've moving on the roads around here.

One road I took the other day was fairly washboarded, but not with deep and 
wide waves. Coming down was an absolute blast because at speed I glided 
from top to top to top for a wonderfully smooth descent. It's wonderful 
when that happens! Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

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Re: [RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Jim Bronson]

I do like to coast on descents as well.  Many times I can coast faster than
other people can pedal.  However, if the group I am riding with starts
pulling away then I will pedal.

Or, if they got ahead of me on the ascent, then I will pedal on the descent
to catch up.


On Tue, Apr 15, 2014 at 2:08 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 1:01:23 PM UTC-6, Zack wrote:
>
>>  as Andy says, a gentleman doesn't pedal on descents.
>>
>
> Descents on pavement often are more fun pedaling, but on dirt and single
> track, at least around here, there is very little reason to pedal unless
> your goal is to kill yourself or race. Gravity does all the work for you
> once you've moving on the roads around here.
>
> One road I took the other day was fairly washboarded, but not with deep
> and wide waves. Coming down was an absolute blast because at speed I glided
> from top to top to top for a wonderfully smooth descent. It's wonderful
> when that happens! Grin.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
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[RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Tom Harrop]

Hi Zack,

I was having problems which chain skipping and ghost shifting, which were 
solved when I switched from 9 to 8 speed. However, I think the spacing on a 
7 speed cassette is the same as on an 8 speed (someone correct me if I'm 
confused). If that's true I don't know if changing between the two will 
help with shifting at all...?

Tom

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Re: [RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Joe Bunik]

I too will vouch for the 11t cog, works just great with mid-40's big
rings. In fact, I just "recovered" an old STX hubbed MTB wheel with an
awesome 11-28t cassette on it - working great w/ a 44/30 double.

=- Joe Bunik
Walnut Creek, CA


On 4/15/14, Deacon Patrick  wrote:
> On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 1:01:23 PM UTC-6, Zack wrote:
>
>>  as Andy says, a gentleman doesn't pedal on descents.
>>
>
> Descents on pavement often are more fun pedaling, but on dirt and single
> track, at least around here, there is very little reason to pedal unless
> your goal is to kill yourself or race. Gravity does all the work for you
> once you've moving on the roads around here.
>
> One road I took the other day was fairly washboarded, but not with deep and
>
> wide waves. Coming down was an absolute blast because at speed I glided
> from top to top to top for a wonderfully smooth descent. It's wonderful
> when that happens! Grin.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
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[RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Shoji Takahashi]

Hi Zack,
I think Chris Chen suggested in another thread to swap the upper and lower 
derailer pulleys to reduce/eliminate ghost shifting. (Upper pulley floats 
in order to accommodate index shifting.) Did you also try this on your set 
up?

--shoji


On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 2:57:12 PM UTC-4, Zack wrote:
>
> Deacon - 
>
> I suspect most of this is due to me being "close" to being in gear but not 
> actually in gear, after having eliminated all of the other known suspects 
> (loose washer on silver shifters, bent derailer hanger, etc.).  It happens 
> at the start of climbs, and is worse when the bike is loaded up.  It 
> usually happens when I am suddenly putting more pressure on the pedals than 
> a light spinning motion - like standing up to pedal, etc.  It also has the 
> added impact of causing my balky knee to go through a "false top step" 
> phenomenon, so it causes me some on-bike trepidation.  
>
> I'd like to eliminate as much of it as I can by trying a new cassette and 
> seeing how the 7's live.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Steve Palincsar]

On 04/15/2014 02:18 PM, Deacon Patrick wrote:
Zack, I confirmed with Harris Cyclery that it is lower than the XT 
range. Here is the Harris 
link: http://harriscyclery.net/product/shimano-7-speed-cassette-hg50-13-34t-2847.htm 



Steve, if the difference is entirely cosmetic, I have no problem using 
it. Do you say this from personal experience?


http://search.bikelist.org/beta/TreeView.aspx?id=269329
http://www.bikepro.com/products/freewheels/shimcass.html

For the 7 speed cassettes I'm personally interested in, all that's 
available now are the HG50s; when the HG70s became unavailable I managed 
to secure several for myself, so I have personal experience only with 
those.   If I didn't have them, I'd have no issues with using what's 
available.



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Re: [RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Steve Palincsar]

On 04/15/2014 03:15 PM, Tom Harrop wrote:

Hi Zack,

I was having problems which chain skipping and ghost shifting, which 
were solved when I switched from 9 to 8 speed. However, I think the 
spacing on a 7 speed cassette is the same as on an 8 speed (someone 
correct me if I'm confused). If that's true I don't know if changing 
between the two will help with shifting at all...?


The spacing between 7 and 8 is NOT identical.


Center-to-center
Spacing Sprocket Thickness  Spacer Thickness

Shimano HG
7-speed 5.0 mm  1.85 mm 3.15 mm 

Shimano
8-speed 4.8 mm  1.8 mm  3.0 mm  


http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_sp-ss.html#spacingk7

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Re: [RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Steve Palincsar]

On 04/15/2014 02:57 PM, Zack wrote:

Deacon -

I suspect most of this is due to me being "close" to being in gear but 
not actually in gear, after having eliminated all of the other known 
suspects (loose washer on silver shifters, bent derailer hanger, 
etc.).  It happens at the start of climbs, and is worse when the bike 
is loaded up.  It usually happens when I am suddenly putting more 
pressure on the pedals than a light spinning motion - like standing up 
to pedal, etc.  It also has the added impact of causing my balky knee 
to go through a "false top step" phenomenon, so it causes me some 
on-bike trepidation.


Sounds like what happened to me when I tried friction-shifting 
Hyperglide 8.  I resolved my problem by switching to Hyperglide 7.



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Re: [RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Tom Harrop]

Oops! Thanks Steve.

On Tuesday, 15 April 2014 21:24:54 UTC+2, Steve Palincsar wrote:
 

> The spacing between 7 and 8 is NOT identical.
>  

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[RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Zack]

Shoji - Yep, Chris suggested this to me as well, we talked it over on our 
awesome ride out to Mason Hill this weekend.  I plan on doing the pulley 
swap regardless, but haven't done so yet.  I am set on trying the 7 speed 
out, as it's time to swap cassettes and chains anyways, and I want to give 
it a shot.

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[RBW] WTB: large Riv frame w/ tyre clearance for trail riding, e.g. 68 cm Atlantis

[Tom Harrop]

Hi list,

It's (literally and figuratively) a tall ask, but I'm wondering if anyone 
has a really large Riv frame and fork that they would like to sell or have 
been thinking about selling. I'm looking for a bike for trail use so I'd 
like Sam Hillborne tyre clearances and larger. V-brake/canti posts are also 
desirable but not a strict requirement. I have a PBH of 100 cm so I need 
the largest frame sizes made by Riv, e.g.:

68 cm Atlantis
68/64 cm Bombadil
64 cm Sam Hillborne

If anyone sees something along these lines on Craigslist/eBay I'd also love 
to hear about it.

Just to add a layer of complexity, I'm in Europe so the theoretical seller 
would have to be prepared to ship (obviously at my cost). This makes it 
impractical for me to buy a complete bike, because the larger box required 
if wheels are included causes shipping prices to skyrocket.

By the way, I'm not out to undercut Riv on pricing or shopping for 
bargains. I'd like to have something built up to ride this summer and 
waiting for a new frame would make that pretty unlikely. If I don't hear 
about anything for sale on the list, I plan to order a new 64 cm Sam from 
RBWHQ (assuming they still make them).

Thanks for reading,

Tom
Germany

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[RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Deacon Patrick]

Do tell more about the pulley swap! Is it really so simple as swapping the 
pulleys? Nothing else to it?

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 1:47:09 PM UTC-6, Zack wrote:
>
> Shoji - Yep, Chris suggested this to me as well, we talked it over on our 
> awesome ride out to Mason Hill this weekend.  I plan on doing the pulley 
> swap regardless, but haven't done so yet.  I am set on trying the 7 speed 
> out, as it's time to swap cassettes and chains anyways, and I want to give 
> it a shot.
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Sam Hillborne - 60cm

[Mattt]

Sold.  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Best chain lube - ever

[doc]

There actually are brands that have a reputation for being "tackier" than 
others.  If you have access to a Stihl dealership in the area, pick up a 
quart.  I buy bar oil by the gallon, usually Ace, but then we heat with 
wood for our primary fuel, and the garage has almost as many chainsaws as 
bikes.
 

On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 1:33:27 PM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:

> Is there any particular brand of chainsaw oil that is recommended?
>
> I just get whatever the store brand is at my local big box store for the 
> actual chainsaw.  It's about $3 for a quart, IIRC.  I think I've got some 
> squallmart SuperTech right now.  More than what Doc pays for it but I'd 
> probably take 15-20 years go through a gallon of bar oil in my usage 
> scenario, e.g., a homeowner trimming branches off of large trees.
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 15, 2014 at 9:03 AM, Chris in Redding, Ca. 
> 
> > wrote:
>
>> Hey All,
>> Been using bar oil for my chains and other stuff for over 20 years. It 
>> works just fine and is cheap. I say give it a try.
>> Chris
>> Redding, Ca.
>>
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>
>
>
> -- 
> Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Scott Henry]

Deacon,
Its worth a try, and yes, its really just that easy.

The top pulley has a little wiggle room, to help the pulley line up with
the cog for index shifts.  The lower pulley is rigid.   It SHOULD give a
more precise friction shift.

Swap them and try.   Its can't hurt at all.   From memory, I thinks its
just a 3mm allen bolt.   Just make sure you firm them back up, maybe even
some blue locktite (or beeswax for Rivy people).  If the bolt backs out
while riding you absolutely will not find all the pieces on the trailside.


Ask me how I know.

Cheers,
Scott Henry
Dayton, OH


On Tue, Apr 15, 2014 at 4:07 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> Do tell more about the pulley swap! Is it really so simple as swapping the
> pulleys? Nothing else to it?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
>
> On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 1:47:09 PM UTC-6, Zack wrote:
>>
>> Shoji - Yep, Chris suggested this to me as well, we talked it over on our
>> awesome ride out to Mason Hill this weekend.  I plan on doing the pulley
>> swap regardless, but haven't done so yet.  I am set on trying the 7 speed
>> out, as it's time to swap cassettes and chains anyways, and I want to give
>> it a shot.
>>
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[RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[velomann]

I'm going to humbly suggest what may be an unpopular suggestion, but Zack I 
think you already diagnosed your problem and I suspect the switch you are 
proposing won't solve your problem. You're a big guy, pedaling uphill. My 
guess is your frame flex in this situations is causing the ghost shifts and 
that will continue. Is it a pretty flexible frame? Do you have a stiffer 
frame or MTB you can try with similar gear set up to see if you get the 
same results? My suggestion? Go with indexing (gasp).

Mike (who's happily riding 9-speed DT indexing up all kinds of hills in PDX 
on a flexy frame with nary a ghost shift)

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[RBW] Re: Best chain lube - ever

[Chris in Redding, Ca.]

Hey Patrick,
My home gets over 60 inches of rain a year. Some places I ride (Brandy 
Creek watershed at Whiskeytown) get well over 100 inches per year. The 
driest parts get well into the 30s, with the town getting about 45. But the 
Summers are long, hot, and dry. I use a plastic bath and rub type cleaner 
with kerosene or diesel to clean the chains, but not very often. Mostly I 
just wipe them off and add more lube. 

I hope it works as well for you as it does for us!
Chris

On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 7:09:41 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Great to hear, Chris! Redding, CA isn't particularly known as a wet area, 
> correct? Presuming it's mostly dry, dusty riding where you are and since 
> you love the bar oil, that goes against the conventional wisdom (which is 
> so often wrong), that sounds like exactly what I'm looking for. Does it 
> much matter what brand?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Best chain lube - ever

[Chris in Redding, Ca.]

Those familiar with Phil's Tenacious Oil will find Bar Oil remarkably 
similar.
Chris

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[RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Zack]

I have a 64cm Sam and a 62cm Hunq, I am guessing flame flex is most likely 
not the problem.

So back to the original question about cassette choices, I see three 
shimanos that seem to fit the bill for me.  It's difficult for me to 
visualize what the real-life on-bike difference would be, beyond what the 
top and bottom gears would seem like.  So "big jumps" are not desirable, 
from what I gather.  Does this have more to do with what it feels like to 
ride, or is it the actual of mechanics of the shifting that makes the big 
jump less desirable?  Also, are these actually big jumps?  

*CS‑HG50*
C, G13151720232630*CS‑HG50*
K13151720242934*CS‑HG50*
D, F14161821242832

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[RBW] FS: Albatross bars, shims, Shimano 9 bar end shfiters, Brooks B17 standard honey with cover and VO saddle goo

[eflayer]

Albatross bars, cromo, 25.4, nice used, a couple of marks. $45 shipped.
Brooks B17 standard honey brown, nice used, no nicks or gouges, includes 
new Brooks nylon cover, and barely touched tub of VO saddle goo. $75 
shipped.
Shimano 9 bar end shifters, used with some scratches on outside edges of 
pods, $55 shipped.
 
I also have shims:
one set to fit 25.4 bars with 26.0 stem. 
another set to fit 25.4 with 31.8 stem. $5 each set shipped.
 
 

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Re: [RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Tim Gavin]

None of these have "big jumps".  4-5 teeth is fine.

The CG has the tightest, closest spread, and the differences between the K
and DF are pretty small.  I'd get the cassette that has the size of big cog
you want: 30, 32, or 34?

I dislike the gearing on my Shimano Mega Range freewheel, 14-16-18-20-22-24-
*34*

That 10 tooth jump from 24 to 34 was really abrupt.  I tried modifying the
cogs but they aren't the same size as on other freewheels.

I'm trying a 11-13-15-18-21-24-30 freewheel next.  I don't really care
about the 11 tooth cog, but the rest of the cogs have good spacing.  I may
miss the 34 cog vice the 30 cog, but I've always got a granny ring to shift
to.

Tim



On Tue, Apr 15, 2014 at 4:00 PM, Zack  wrote:

> I have a 64cm Sam and a 62cm Hunq, I am guessing flame flex is most likely
> not the problem.
>
> So back to the original question about cassette choices, I see three
> shimanos that seem to fit the bill for me.  It's difficult for me to
> visualize what the real-life on-bike difference would be, beyond what the
> top and bottom gears would seem like.  So "big jumps" are not desirable,
> from what I gather.  Does this have more to do with what it feels like to
> ride, or is it the actual of mechanics of the shifting that makes the big
> jump less desirable?  Also, are these actually big jumps?
>
> *CS‑HG50*
> C, G13151720232630*CS‑HG50*
> K13151720242934*CS‑HG50*
> D, F14161821242832
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Steve Palincsar]

On 04/15/2014 05:00 PM, Zack wrote:


So back to the original question about cassette choices, I see three 
shimanos that seem to fit the bill for me.  It's difficult for me to 
visualize what the real-life on-bike difference would be, beyond what 
the top and bottom gears would seem like.  So "big jumps" are not 
desirable, from what I gather.  Does this have more to do with what it 
feels like to ride, or is it the actual of mechanics of the shifting 
that makes the big jump less desirable?  Also, are these actually big 
jumps?


*CS‑HG50*
C, G

13  
15  
17  

20  

23  

26  


30  
*CS‑HG50*
K   

13  
15  
17  

20  


24  



29  

34
*CS‑HG50*
D, F


14  
16  
18  

21  

24  


28  

32




The actual mechanics of shifting are basically the same no matter which 
of these you have.


What you want are "right sized jumps."  Some of this is subjective: some 
riders like more closely spaced gears than others.  And some of it is a 
matter of inertia.  A heavily loaded touring bike loses speed much more 
quickly when the road inclines up than a lightly loaded bike, and to 
arrive at a leg speed and effort level that will give the desired amount 
of relief -- i.e., that will put you in the "right" gear -- requires a 
bigger jump with the heavier loaded bike.


I like the Century Special 9 speed 13-30 custom cassette for my 
randonneurs, but I like the 7 speed 13-30 for my touring bike.  Same 
high and same low, but 2 more "in between" gears up at the high end, a 
14 and a 19, with the 9 speed.





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Re: [RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Deacon Patrick]

Wow! Thank you, Chris, Shoji, and Skenry! I haven't ridden much (just a few 
mile test ride), but for the first time in a very long time I have my 
smallest cog back without any skipping (and three LBS's failed to figure 
out the problem). Shifting felt much crisper as well. I was doubtful as I 
was cleaning the mini-cogs and their bearings and tracking everything for 
the swap and re-figuring out which way the derailure arm went on because 
the two wheels felt the same to me. But whether it is the wheel difference 
or the cleaning, or both ... wow! Thank you!

Zack, give that mini-cog swap a shot. You may well be stunned! We'll see 
how I do after a ride or two, but if this holds and isn't some weird 
honeymoon period, I'm now confident in going with the 9-speed cassette, and 
that is exciting!

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 2:22:32 PM UTC-6, Skenry wrote:
>
> Deacon,
> Its worth a try, and yes, its really just that easy.
>
> The top pulley has a little wiggle room, to help the pulley line up with 
> the cog for index shifts.  The lower pulley is rigid.   It SHOULD give a 
> more precise friction shift.
>
> Swap them and try.   Its can't hurt at all.   From memory, I thinks its 
> just a 3mm allen bolt.   Just make sure you firm them back up, maybe even 
> some blue locktite (or beeswax for Rivy people).  If the bolt backs out 
> while riding you absolutely will not find all the pieces on the trailside. 
>   
>
> Ask me how I know.
>
> Cheers,
> Scott Henry
> Dayton, OH
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 15, 2014 at 4:07 PM, Deacon Patrick 
> > wrote:
>
>> Do tell more about the pulley swap! Is it really so simple as swapping 
>> the pulleys? Nothing else to it?
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 1:47:09 PM UTC-6, Zack wrote:
>>>
>>> Shoji - Yep, Chris suggested this to me as well, we talked it over on 
>>> our awesome ride out to Mason Hill this weekend.  I plan on doing the 
>>> pulley swap regardless, but haven't done so yet.  I am set on trying the 7 
>>> speed out, as it's time to swap cassettes and chains anyways, and I want to 
>>> give it a shot.
>>>
>>  -- 
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[RBW] Re: Albastache conversion Complete!

[Ryan]

Hi Patrick...I have been a fan of moustache bars since 1993 , and what I 
like about them is that I feel more centered and balanced over my bikes, 
and I feel I can shift my weight as required easily...3 of my bikes have 
moustache bars and I have a couple of  them tucked away  because one of the 
bikes have the original 1993 M-bars which are probably due for 
replacement. The Albastaches  look subtly different. The only issue I have 
with M-bars comes after rides of more than 2-3 hours where I kind of prefer 
road bars, especially into a wind. We do winds really well on the Manitoba 
prairies. I wouldn't be averse to trying the albatrosses, I guess, on a 
more upright bikebut I'm not there yet. 
 
Anyway, thanks for replying and the albastaches look great. Cheers
On Monday, April 14, 2014 5:37:14 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:

> Ryan, 
>
> If I didn't have vertigo, yes, there are conditions I would switch back to 
> the Albatross. They are an amazing bar for more upright riding. Unless 
> something like back issues require me to have a more upright position (and 
> since I floor live and have regular bone broth and an anti-inflammatory 
> diet I am hopeful that is less likely), I do no see switching back. The 
> vertigo is simply far less of a factor with the Albastache, with the bike 
> and I moving as one in a way that did not happen with the Albatross.
>
> Yes, that is Newbaum's orange.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Monday, April 14, 2014 3:59:28 PM UTC-6, Ryan wrote: 
>>
>>  Love the orange bar tape and it's a nice complement to the frame's 
>> colour scheme. I think you did a lovely job of wrapping them. Newbaum tape, 
>> did you say? Great pictures, too, as usual. Do you think you would switch 
>> back to the original Albas under some conditions?
>>  
>> Regards...Ryan in Winnipeg
>> On Saturday, April 12, 2014 3:56:09 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks to you all, your knowledge, suggestions, and various parts the 
>>> conversion to Albastache is complete! I got to do a few extra jobs beyond 
>>> what I thought, but handled them all better than I would have thought 
>>> because of the newly fortified Hobbit Hole/stow-away-workshop. 
>>>
>>> Thank you for all your help!
>>>
>>> Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/32311885@N07/13806244434/
>>>  
>>> With abandon,
>>> Patrick
>>>
>>> *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org *
>>> *www.OurHolyConception.org *
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Philip Williamson]

Have you tried indexed shifting? 
I had some trouble getting good shifts friction-shifting a 9sp cassette, 
and went to a 7, since my bar-end shifters will index in 7. Shifting 
improved, but is now fine in friction, too. 
I also I got a new (used) rear derailleur with a MUCH stronger spring. I 
replaced a Suntour Cyclone with a Shimano 105. Your Deore is probably fine, 
but you might make sure it's hanging straight, and appears strong. 

Gearing: My 7 speed cassette has a narrow range (12-25), to keep in synch 
with the subtle shifts in speed of my riding group. I used the front 
derailleur to make up the gear range (32/40/48). After a while I stopped 
shifting the front, and this weekend I changed to a single 44t ring. We'll 
see how that goes. I too avoid the 11t cog, but only because I've heard 
they wear faster and are less efficient. If the chainring is small, the 
gear will be perfectly usable. Sheldon's gear calculator shows that with 
29x2.1 tires, cranks, 46/11 is the same as a 50/12 (115"). 44/12 is 101", 
which seems fine for me. 

I weigh 235, down 30 lbs from the beginning of the year. 

Philip
www.biketinker.com



On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 10:46:40 AM UTC-7, Zack wrote:
>
> hey all -
>
> i think i'd like to convert my Rivs to 7 speed cassettes.  my drivetrains 
> could probably both use an overhaul, so i figure this is a great chance to 
> make the switch.  I have always had some problems with ghost shifting under 
> load (i have checked derailer hanger, it's straight, greased under bottom 
> bracket, made sure there are no kinks, replaced worn cassette, tightened my 
> silver shifters, done all the suggested things,), and want to see if this 
> switch will help/eliminate and get me to "heaven".
>
> My setup:
>
> Shimano X7 rear hub.
> Shimano Deore RD.
> Sugino Xd2 triple crank
> Silver shifters
>
> I live in portland and am a big dude, and andy and chris always take me on 
> rides that involve "some climbing" so I'd like to have a good bailout gear.
>
> What do you guys recommend for a 7 speed cassette?  I understand I'd need 
> a spacer and 7 speed chain to make it work, anything else?  How hard would 
> it be to make the swap myself?  (I have a chain whip and the park tools 
> cassette tool, I have swapped out my 8 speed cassettes before.)
>
> Side note: why doesn't Riv sell 7 speed cassettes?  
>
>

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RE: [RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Allingham II, Thomas J]

Biketinker, a shadow of his former self…

From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Philip Williamson
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2014 6:08 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

Have you tried indexed shifting?
I had some trouble getting good shifts friction-shifting a 9sp cassette, and 
went to a 7, since my bar-end shifters will index in 7. Shifting improved, but 
is now fine in friction, too.
I also I got a new (used) rear derailleur with a MUCH stronger spring. I 
replaced a Suntour Cyclone with a Shimano 105. Your Deore is probably fine, but 
you might make sure it's hanging straight, and appears strong.

Gearing: My 7 speed cassette has a narrow range (12-25), to keep in synch with 
the subtle shifts in speed of my riding group. I used the front derailleur to 
make up the gear range (32/40/48). After a while I stopped shifting the front, 
and this weekend I changed to a single 44t ring. We'll see how that goes. I too 
avoid the 11t cog, but only because I've heard they wear faster and are less 
efficient. If the chainring is small, the gear will be perfectly usable. 
Sheldon's gear calculator shows that with 29x2.1 tires, cranks, 46/11 is the 
same as a 50/12 (115"). 44/12 is 101", which seems fine for me.

I weigh 235, down 30 lbs from the beginning of the year.

Philip
www.biketinker.com



On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 10:46:40 AM UTC-7, Zack wrote:
hey all -

i think i'd like to convert my Rivs to 7 speed cassettes.  my drivetrains could 
probably both use an overhaul, so i figure this is a great chance to make the 
switch.  I have always had some problems with ghost shifting under load (i have 
checked derailer hanger, it's straight, greased under bottom bracket, made sure 
there are no kinks, replaced worn cassette, tightened my silver shifters, done 
all the suggested things,), and want to see if this switch will help/eliminate 
and get me to "heaven".

My setup:

Shimano X7 rear hub.
Shimano Deore RD.
Sugino Xd2 triple crank
Silver shifters

I live in portland and am a big dude, and andy and chris always take me on 
rides that involve "some climbing" so I'd like to have a good bailout gear.

What do you guys recommend for a 7 speed cassette?  I understand I'd need a 
spacer and 7 speed chain to make it work, anything else?  How hard would it be 
to make the swap myself?  (I have a chain whip and the park tools cassette 
tool, I have swapped out my 8 speed cassettes before.)

Side note: why doesn't Riv sell 7 speed cassettes?

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Re: [RBW] FS: Sam Hillborne - 60cm

[Jim Bronson]

I am glad I had many bikes when I met my wife, else she be tempted to
attempt a similar policy in our home ;)


On Mon, Apr 14, 2014 at 11:48 AM, Mattt  wrote:

> I am selling my 60cm Sam Hillborne.  I estimate it has about 1000 miles
> on it.  The frame is in excellent condition.   There are 3-4 nicks on the
> frame. There is no chain scrapes or anything of the such on the chain stay.
> The Sam has not been in crashes and always ridden with care.  Framesaver
> was put on or in the Sam. I recently put on new wires for the brakes and
> derailers.  The moustache bar is a little beat up, but most of the
> scrapes are under the tape.  The moustache bar has a noticeable scrape
> near the clamp from a previous owner struggling to get it on.
>
> I had this for sale on craiglist in the past and someone on the list
> posted it here.   I found my white whale and why now putting this on the
> market again.  I have to conform to my wife’s one bike policy.
>
> I understand the moustache bar is not a desirable handlebar for some
> riders.  A dirt drop stem usually goes with the moustache bar  If this is
> the case, I will sell the bike without the moustache bar for $40 less and
> without the moustache bar and dirt drop stem for $100 less.
>
> The Sam Hillborne does not include the rear rack and front and rear light
> seen in the pictures.  Also, the moustache bar no longer has tape.  I was
> doing some experimenting with handlebars.  I will update the pictures
> accordingly if you want to see without.
>
> Please send me any questions.
> I am asking $2000 plus shipping.  Send me an offer you believe is fair.  The
> most I can say is no or barter and we can still be RBW friends.
> I live in Oklahoma City, OK, if anyone is near by and wants to see in
> person.
> I did my best for detailed pictures.  If you need to see anything further
> let me know.
>
> *https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3njnWUSiXUHNFZNZkFmenloREE&usp=sharing*
>
>  Here is a list of the parts:
>
> Rear Wheel – White Industries MI5 hub with Velocity Synergy Rims
>
> Front Wheel – Shimano dynamo hub with Velocity Synergy Rims
>
> *Both wheels were built by Tony at Longleaf Cycles
>
> Tires – Schwalbe Marathon Supremes 700x32 (Lots of life left)
>
> Skewers – Velo Orange Quick Release
>
> Rear Cassette – Shimano XT M770 9 Speed – 11-32
>
> Rear Derailer – Shimano XT M772 Shadow
>
> Front Derailer – Shimano Ultregra 6700 Double
>
> Bottom Bracket – SKF
>
> Crank – Sugino Alpina 172.5mm Double 34x48
>
> Pedals – MKS Sylvan Touring with Power straps( I know someone out there
> loves them besides me)
>
> Fenders – Honjo 45mm Le Paon (There is a barely noticeable extra hole I
> drilled in wrong place.)
>
> Seatpost – Nitto S65
>
> Saddle – Brooks B17
>
> Brakes – Paul Components Racer
>
> Brake Levers – Cane Creek Aero Levers
>
> Shifters – Silver Shifters
>
> Headset – Tange
>
> Stem – Nitto Dirt Drop 10cm and 26mm clamp
>
> Nitto Rear Brake hanger
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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[RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[dougP]

Zack:

What cassette are you using now?  What's your tooth range?  Standard Riv 
spec 24/36/46 chainrings?

Swapping out cassettes is the same procedure, and you will need an "8 to 7 
spacer" to fill the gap.  Chains are the same.  The beauty of this is that 
you can go back to 8 if 7 doesn't work out.

For a self-described big guy living in Portland with friends who like to 
ride hills, my choice would be the 13-34.  As to quality, I've got an HG-50 
with over 10,000 miles on it that still works fine with Shimano indexed 
shifters.  This is a 7 speed, 13-28 cassette with a 34 big cog from a 9 
speed, all spaced with 8 speed spacers.  The 6 tooth jump from 28 to 34 is 
just another shift, even under load.  IME Shimano is conservative in their 
tooth / gap specs (the Mega range being an exception, it seems).  

I also have the 14-32 7 speed on another bike, and find that spacing & 
range shift well.  Don't recall the grade of cassette on that one but I've 
had it for ages.  7 speed stuff is pretty long lasting and still made for 
OEM use in other parts of the world.

dougP

On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 2:00:57 PM UTC-7, Zack wrote:

> I have a 64cm Sam and a 62cm Hunq, I am guessing flame flex is most likely 
> not the problem.
>
> So back to the original question about cassette choices, I see three 
> shimanos that seem to fit the bill for me.  It's difficult for me to 
> visualize what the real-life on-bike difference would be, beyond what the 
> top and bottom gears would seem like.  So "big jumps" are not desirable, 
> from what I gather.  Does this have more to do with what it feels like to 
> ride, or is it the actual of mechanics of the shifting that makes the big 
> jump less desirable?  Also, are these actually big jumps?  
>
> *CS‑HG50*
> C, G13151720232630*CS‑HG50*
> K13151720242934*CS‑HG50*
> D, F14161821242832
>

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[RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Zack]

"big guy living in Portland with friends who like to ride hills" sums it up 
nicely.

pretty sure I have 11-32 8 speed cassettes on both bikes.  standard xd2 
triple setup from Riv.

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[RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Deacon Patrick]

So we're riding the same set up, Zack. I'll be curious to hear if the 
"Chris maneuver" works for you. I'm hoping my brain is up for a real ride 
tomorrow so I can test mine out! Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 5:09:00 PM UTC-6, Zack wrote:
>
> "big guy living in Portland with friends who like to ride hills" sums it 
> up nicely.
>
> pretty sure I have 11-32 8 speed cassettes on both bikes.  standard xd2 
> triple setup from Riv.
>

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[RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Eric Peterson]

I think you cannot go wrong with the HG41 cassettes. They are very 
reasonably priced and maybe a bit sturdier than the HG50:
HG 
41(11-28
 
cassette).
Recently I switched to using these on my RB-1.
I was experiencing shifting issues in the lower gears when using the 
8-speed BES that I had on the bike.
Along with the switch to the HG41, I also installed NOS 7-speed indexed DT 
shifters.
It now shifts like a dream in all gears.
Plus, the 11-28 cassette works fine with my (old) Shimano 600 RD.
If I want any lower gearing, I will swap out the crank for a compact one, 
or a triple like the one you mention that you are using.
Personally I really dislike having anything larger than 28 in the back, 
especially with a 7-speed cassette.
I tried a 32 (or was it a 30) and did not like the jumps at all.

--Eric


On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 12:46:40 PM UTC-5, Zack wrote:
>
> hey all -
>
> i think i'd like to convert my Rivs to 7 speed cassettes.  my drivetrains 
> could probably both use an overhaul, so i figure this is a great chance to 
> make the switch.  I have always had some problems with ghost shifting under 
> load (i have checked derailer hanger, it's straight, greased under bottom 
> bracket, made sure there are no kinks, replaced worn cassette, tightened my 
> silver shifters, done all the suggested things,), and want to see if this 
> switch will help/eliminate and get me to "heaven".
>
> My setup:
>
> Shimano X7 rear hub.
> Shimano Deore RD.
> Sugino Xd2 triple crank
> Silver shifters
>
> I live in portland and am a big dude, and andy and chris always take me on 
> rides that involve "some climbing" so I'd like to have a good bailout gear.
>
> What do you guys recommend for a 7 speed cassette?  I understand I'd need 
> a spacer and 7 speed chain to make it work, anything else?  How hard would 
> it be to make the swap myself?  (I have a chain whip and the park tools 
> cassette tool, I have swapped out my 8 speed cassettes before.)
>
> Side note: why doesn't Riv sell 7 speed cassettes?  
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Chain lube/wax

[ascpgh]

I used ProLink this winter because I found a bottle of it in a toolbox and 
figured I wouldn't get weepy about using it frequently and copiously over 
what became an epic slop season on my commuter. All other reports aside, my 
chain has lasted the whole season, dimensionally intact, using this lube as 
directed. Often, without concern for its value per unit of measure.

I wasn't the biggest driveline hygienist over the winter, It's was just too 
wickedly cold and I had no safe place to "bird bath" the commute with my 
garden sprayer; I mostly just knocked the slush/snow/sleet/rime/salt slop 
out of the fenders and off the wheels, rolled it to its parking place, 
chain wiped and examined for lube need every third day or so unless really 
nasty. Patrick's riding doesn't seem to include the sort of urban hazards 
of my winter riding, but I long ago gave up on the wax-depositing or "dry" 
lubes due to increase in chain consumption under their iffy protection. 
Pretty is as pretty does in my compilation of this winter's testing. 
ProLink wasn't notably filthy, smelly or so greasy as to avoid touching but 
it wasn't dry. What it did was never fall short as a lube, all previous 
reviews aside. 

I have to compliment the mudflap templates Jan published in BQ last year. 
While not using one reaching ground level, the one I fashioned (the third 
material attempt) from a scrap of  flat roof torch-down material that 
stopped significant amounts of front wheel-flung winter slurry from 
saturating the chain, BB and chain rings, but allowing enough to go beneath 
it so as not to build up such a huge glob of flap breaking accumulation, 
the shortcoming of the longer first two iterations which did scrape on a 
steeply leaned turn. And they both failed because of stopping everything 
which then froze to and broke them Moderation wins again. 

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh, where it has snowed all day.


On Monday, April 14, 2014 7:37:53 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> I went back and looked at the various lubes I've tried and they are all 
> variations on the "dry wax." So that path has been tried. The Chain-L looks 
> well worth trying. So I will try the wet lube next and see how it goes. 
> Given that Boeshield and White Lightening and the rest last me at most 10 
> hours of riding, its time to move on. I suspect that even under ideal 
> conditions, the steeper riding I do is rough on a lube, so wet that 
> reapplies itself internally makes sense.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Steve Palincsar]

On 04/15/2014 07:35 PM, Eric Peterson wrote:
I think you cannot go wrong with the HG41 cassettes. They are very 
reasonably priced and maybe a bit sturdier than the HG50:
HG 41 
(11-28 
cassette).

Recently I switched to using these on my RB-1.
I was experiencing shifting issues in the lower gears when using the 
8-speed BES that I had on the bike.
Along with the switch to the HG41, I also installed NOS 7-speed 
indexed DT shifters.

It now shifts like a dream in all gears.
Plus, the 11-28 cassette works fine with my (old) Shimano 600 RD.
If I want any lower gearing, I will swap out the crank for a compact 
one, or a triple like the one you mention that you are using.
Personally I really dislike having anything larger than 28 in the 
back, especially with a 7-speed cassette.

I tried a 32 (or was it a 30) and did not like the jumps at all.


This is so personal.  I think the 13-30 is perfect, at least for a 
touring bike.


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[RBW] Re: Ride Report: The Hundred Mile Burger

[Cecily Walker]

I don't even know where Crown Point is, but "Eff it, I'm going to Crown 
Point" may be my new rallying cry.

Sounds like a great ride.
-C.

On Monday, April 14, 2014 12:41:14 AM UTC-7, Christopher Chen wrote:
>
> Or: How I fell in love with my bicycle again.
>
> After the awesome ramble out to Mason Hill, I wasn't planning to do any 
> more riding this weekend, but a social engagement fell through so the first 
> thought I had was,
>
> "eff it, I'm going to Crown Point."
>
> I have evidence of this: 
> https://twitter.com/secretasianman/status/455385037743988737
>
> But really that was a straw man. I really wanted to go to Bonneville Lock 
> & Dam, and probably Cascade Locks, home of the Char Burger and The Bridge 
> of The Gods, roughly 50 miles distant.
>
> I packed plenty of fruit and nuts and water, but forgot my maps, so I did 
> some psychic navigation to Troutdale and the Historic Columbia River 
> Highway. The Easterlies were strong today; I had to just pick a lower gear 
> and spin my way on the flats. It was not my favorite thing but the skies 
> were so blue and Mount Hood was so clear I nearly forgave the wind.
>
> The highway leaves Troutdale and enters the Scenic Area proper after 
> crossing the Sandy River. I took Woodard Rd., which is one of the first 
> turns off the historic highway, which takes you up the bluff in a direct 
> fashion. It was a hoot to see cabbage fields I had last seen when I did my 
> birthday ride on New Year's Eve. Woodard is a pretty honest direct climb. 
> To stay on the ridge (or close to it) I needed to move over to Mershon, 
> which has a few pretty rollers. This dropped me back onto the historic 
> highway just outside the Town of Corbett. In short order I hit the main 
> vista spots, the Women's Forum, Crown Point (where I hung out at the picnic 
> area nobody ever seems to use), Multnomah Falls (which reminds me of 
> Disneyland more and more every time I visit), and the Bonneville Fish 
> Hatchery, where you can see GIANT STURGEON.
>
> The last six miles of the ride to Cascade Locks was on the Trail portion 
> of the Historic Columbia River Highway, which I've come to like. Except for 
> the stairs. Oh god the stairs.
>
> The first restaurant you reach when you get to Cascade Locks is the Char 
> Burger, which is currently undergoing renovations, so I ended up eating in 
> the smaller restaurant in the basement, which is less "guns on the wall" 
> and more "waterfront dining". Oh well. BURGERS WERE HAD. I use the plural 
> because I took the burger of a customer who left after ordering. MORE 
> CHEEZBURGER FOR ME.
>
> I'd known that I wouldn't get back home before dark, so I was a little 
> apprehensive of riding on curvy country roads at night, but as it turned 
> out, this was the most magical part of the ride. By the time I'd reached 
> the touristy areas, almost all the cars were gone, and all I had to deal 
> with were clouds of Gnats. As the sun disappeared and the temperatures 
> started to fall, I found I had more energy. I've noticed this 
> before--riding gets easier when it's cooler.
>
> So here's the magical part: All the small towns were really quiet, and way 
> more charming at night than during the day. By 10pm most all the businesses 
> are closed, and it's just so quiet. I heard frogs! I adjusted my dynamo 
> light to point a little higher and I was able to see far in the distance; 
> the stars were out and the moon was nearly full.
>
> I returned back via Marine Drive, which is a road that is built atop a 
> flood control dike; It was a gorgeous night to return to Portland that way, 
> and the radar speed reader clocked me at 15mph, which I'll take any day.
>
> Pictures prove something, but mostly that I'm thinking about planning more 
> rides that go late into the night.
>
> ~100mi, leave noon, return 11pm.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lumachrome/sets/72157643935581004/ 
>
> -- 
> "I want the kind of six pack you can't drink." -- Micah 
>

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Re: [RBW] WTB: large Riv frame w/ tyre clearance for trail riding, e.g. 68 cm Atlantis

[Jim Bronson]

Riv still makes the Sam in 64 but it costs more (1500 usd) and the lead
time is longer.  I was thinking of buying one myself but I converted my
existing custom 69 cm Riv to 650b and have been happy with the conversion.
On Apr 15, 2014 2:51 PM, "Tom Harrop"  wrote:

> Hi list,
>
> It's (literally and figuratively) a tall ask, but I'm wondering if anyone
> has a really large Riv frame and fork that they would like to sell or have
> been thinking about selling. I'm looking for a bike for trail use so I'd
> like Sam Hillborne tyre clearances and larger. V-brake/canti posts are also
> desirable but not a strict requirement. I have a PBH of 100 cm so I need
> the largest frame sizes made by Riv, e.g.:
>
> 68 cm Atlantis
> 68/64 cm Bombadil
> 64 cm Sam Hillborne
>
> If anyone sees something along these lines on Craigslist/eBay I'd also
> love to hear about it.
>
> Just to add a layer of complexity, I'm in Europe so the theoretical seller
> would have to be prepared to ship (obviously at my cost). This makes it
> impractical for me to buy a complete bike, because the larger box required
> if wheels are included causes shipping prices to skyrocket.
>
> By the way, I'm not out to undercut Riv on pricing or shopping for
> bargains. I'd like to have something built up to ride this summer and
> waiting for a new frame would make that pretty unlikely. If I don't hear
> about anything for sale on the list, I plan to order a new 64 cm Sam from
> RBWHQ (assuming they still make them).
>
> Thanks for reading,
>
> Tom
> Germany
>
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[RBW] Re: Ride Report: The Hundred Mile Burger

[Lynne Fitz]

This is what you see from Crown Point: https://flic.kr/p/kUNERM

On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 5:01:41 PM UTC-7, Cecily Walker wrote:
>
> I don't even know where Crown Point is, but "Eff it, I'm going to Crown 
> Point" may be my new rallying cry.
>
> Sounds like a great ride.
> -C.
>
> On Monday, April 14, 2014 12:41:14 AM UTC-7, Christopher Chen wrote:
>>
>> Or: How I fell in love with my bicycle again.
>>
>> After the awesome ramble out to Mason Hill, I wasn't planning to do any 
>> more riding this weekend, but a social engagement fell through so the first 
>> thought I had was,
>>
>> "eff it, I'm going to Crown Point."
>>
>> I have evidence of this: 
>> https://twitter.com/secretasianman/status/455385037743988737
>>
>> But really that was a straw man. I really wanted to go to Bonneville Lock 
>> & Dam, and probably Cascade Locks, home of the Char Burger and The Bridge 
>> of The Gods, roughly 50 miles distant.
>>
>> I packed plenty of fruit and nuts and water, but forgot my maps, so I did 
>> some psychic navigation to Troutdale and the Historic Columbia River 
>> Highway. The Easterlies were strong today; I had to just pick a lower gear 
>> and spin my way on the flats. It was not my favorite thing but the skies 
>> were so blue and Mount Hood was so clear I nearly forgave the wind.
>>
>> The highway leaves Troutdale and enters the Scenic Area proper after 
>> crossing the Sandy River. I took Woodard Rd., which is one of the first 
>> turns off the historic highway, which takes you up the bluff in a direct 
>> fashion. It was a hoot to see cabbage fields I had last seen when I did my 
>> birthday ride on New Year's Eve. Woodard is a pretty honest direct climb. 
>> To stay on the ridge (or close to it) I needed to move over to Mershon, 
>> which has a few pretty rollers. This dropped me back onto the historic 
>> highway just outside the Town of Corbett. In short order I hit the main 
>> vista spots, the Women's Forum, Crown Point (where I hung out at the picnic 
>> area nobody ever seems to use), Multnomah Falls (which reminds me of 
>> Disneyland more and more every time I visit), and the Bonneville Fish 
>> Hatchery, where you can see GIANT STURGEON.
>>
>> The last six miles of the ride to Cascade Locks was on the Trail portion 
>> of the Historic Columbia River Highway, which I've come to like. Except for 
>> the stairs. Oh god the stairs.
>>
>> The first restaurant you reach when you get to Cascade Locks is the Char 
>> Burger, which is currently undergoing renovations, so I ended up eating in 
>> the smaller restaurant in the basement, which is less "guns on the wall" 
>> and more "waterfront dining". Oh well. BURGERS WERE HAD. I use the plural 
>> because I took the burger of a customer who left after ordering. MORE 
>> CHEEZBURGER FOR ME.
>>
>> I'd known that I wouldn't get back home before dark, so I was a little 
>> apprehensive of riding on curvy country roads at night, but as it turned 
>> out, this was the most magical part of the ride. By the time I'd reached 
>> the touristy areas, almost all the cars were gone, and all I had to deal 
>> with were clouds of Gnats. As the sun disappeared and the temperatures 
>> started to fall, I found I had more energy. I've noticed this 
>> before--riding gets easier when it's cooler.
>>
>> So here's the magical part: All the small towns were really quiet, and 
>> way more charming at night than during the day. By 10pm most all the 
>> businesses are closed, and it's just so quiet. I heard frogs! I adjusted my 
>> dynamo light to point a little higher and I was able to see far in the 
>> distance; the stars were out and the moon was nearly full.
>>
>> I returned back via Marine Drive, which is a road that is built atop a 
>> flood control dike; It was a gorgeous night to return to Portland that way, 
>> and the radar speed reader clocked me at 15mph, which I'll take any day.
>>
>> Pictures prove something, but mostly that I'm thinking about planning 
>> more rides that go late into the night.
>>
>> ~100mi, leave noon, return 11pm.
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lumachrome/sets/72157643935581004/ 
>>
>> -- 
>> "I want the kind of six pack you can't drink." -- Micah 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Rona-Willow closeout sale

[Kevin Mulcahy]

Are the chainrings ramped or pinned? Are they 10 speed compatible?

Thanks!
Kevin
Chicago, IL

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[RBW] Re: FS pricing assistance S&S couplers

[Michael Hechmer]

Not a great set of photographs but here's what I took after first putting 
it together.  It looks better in person and I absolutely love the ride, a 
great combination of comfort, responsiveness and road manners,

https://www.icloud.com/photostream/#A2GgZLKuGQYuu6

Michael

On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 12:12:13 PM UTC-4, Tony DeFilippo wrote:
>
> Michael, got any pictures of your converted trek!?! Sounds like a Sweet 
> ride!
>
> Tony
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Edwin W]

I was having some shifting problems and found a sticky pulley. I diagnosed it 
but the chain catching when spinning the pedals backward. I cleaned it up (2.5 
Allen I think to take it apart) and got it spinning freely. Of course I had 
ready bought replacements, but have those for the next time
Edwin

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Re: [RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Eric Peterson]

On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 6:56:49 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>  On 04/15/2014 07:35 PM, Eric Peterson wrote:
>  
> I think you cannot go wrong with the HG41 cassettes. They are very 
> reasonably priced and maybe a bit sturdier than the HG50: 
> HG 
> 41(11-28
>  
> cassette).
> Recently I switched to using these on my RB-1.
> I was experiencing shifting issues in the lower gears when using the 
> 8-speed BES that I had on the bike.
> Along with the switch to the HG41, I also installed NOS 7-speed indexed DT 
> shifters.
> It now shifts like a dream in all gears.
> Plus, the 11-28 cassette works fine with my (old) Shimano 600 RD.
> If I want any lower gearing, I will swap out the crank for a compact one, 
> or a triple like the one you mention that you are using.
> Personally I really dislike having anything larger than 28 in the back, 
> especially with a 7-speed cassette.
> I tried a 32 (or was it a 30) and did not like the jumps at all.
>  
>
> This is so personal.  I think the 13-30 is perfect, at least for a touring 
> bike.
>

Indeed. 
I went and checked and the cassette I did not like was a SRAM PG730 12-32, 
with a jump from 26 to 32.
Maybe a 30 would have been OK but the SRAM does not offer a 30.

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[RBW] Re: From the Mountains to the Sea with A. Homer Hilsen.

[hsmitham]

Hey Anonymous,

Nice write up...learned, rode, whistled, soaked it all in while climbing. 

~H

On Monday, April 14, 2014 5:10:16 PM UTC-7, Iron Rider wrote:
>
> A tale of two rides:
>
>
> http://eprider.blogspot.com/2014/04/2014-april-200k-change-in-perspective.html
>

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[RBW] FS: Albatross bars, shims, Shimano 9 bar end shfiters, Brooks B17 standard honey with cover and VO saddle goo

[justinaugust]

Albas still available?

-J

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[RBW] FS/FT 1983 Bridgestone Sirius 63cm

[Marcus80]

For sale is one 1983 Bridgestone Sirius taken from box a couple of years 
ago and ridden a few times. Here is a link to the original catalog for 
specs.
http://sheldonbrown.com/bridgestone/1982/1982%20Bridgestone%20Bicycles%20catalog.pdfand
 here is a link to the bike..
https://www.flickr.com/photos/marcus80/sets/72157635167232184/. I have the 
original tires that came with it as well as a pair of sks fenders, never 
installed. Will consider interesting trades and am located just south of 
Boston Ma. in Braintree. I originally paid I think $450 during if its 
lugged I need it phase. Thanks for looking Mark Adey

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[RBW] Nitto Saddlebag Grip Idea

[Michael Ullmer]

I recently acquired a Nitto Saddlebag Grip which has made the use of 
saddlebags for daily use actually practical as I don't have to spend 5 
minutes fiddling with the leather straps whenever I want to take the bag on 
or off the bike. It is truly an amazing design. I found, though, that I 
needed to keep the grip tightened closely to the bag in order to avoid 
excessive swaying of the bag while riding. This meant that there wasn't 
enough room for me to hold on to the grip because there wasn't enough space 
between the grip and the bag. I then created my own handle which attaches 
to the grip. This allows me to snug the grip as tight as I want against the 
bag and still be able to carry it comfortably off the bike. The homemade 
grip is made of two strips of leather which were initially wrapped with 
twine and then shellaced, but I found that I liked the feel of shellaced 
cotton handlebar tape better. I noticed that the metal rings which attach 
to the handle to the grip were wrapped around the small screw in the 
picture and that it eventually wore away at the threads of the screw. I 
found that using a nylon bushing to protect the screw is the way to go, 
over time the threads on the screw will eventually be worn without the 
bushing. I hope this is helpful to anyone using a saddlebag grip that wants 
to make their own handle. If you need any clarification on any of this 
please get in touch. Cheers all!

https://www.flickr.com/photos/120703118@N08/sets/72157643897714043/

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[RBW] Re: Chain lube/wax

[Jason Cloutier]

Does anyone use molybdenum disulfide for lubrication?

Jason Cloutier
Pawtucket, RI

On Monday, April 14, 2014 8:57:51 AM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> So the stuff I’ve been using lasts a few hours when it’s any sort of wet 
> out and good luck lubing when it’s all wet and grime sticking to grime 
> sticking to grime sticking to chain. Grin.
>
> I am contemplating trying beeswax for my chain, and the websites I’ve 
> found cite Grant saying 8:1 paraffin:beeswax, but then others say “we’re 
> wetter here, so I went 4:1.” Anyone ever go 100% beeswax? What’s the 
> purpose of the paraffin? (I presume to thin the beeswax a bit so the chain 
> isn’t stiff?). If I used all beeswax and then got each link moving first, 
> would that help?
>
> Other ideas that work and don’t attract dirt and don’t need reapplying 
> because thunder over the next ridge scared the lube off the chain?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org *
> *www.OurHolyConception.org *
>  
>

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Re: [RBW] Chain lube/wax

[Andrew Marchant-Shapiro]

Chain-L is amazing.  Your drive train will be absolutely filthy after a 
little while.  But it will be quiet for 500  miles.

On Monday, April 14, 2014 11:46:44 AM UTC-4, JimD wrote:
>
> This stuff works great but no way will it stay 'clean'.
> http://chain-l.com/index.html
> -Jim
>
> On Apr 14, 2014, at 7:17 AM, Anne > 
> wrote:
>
> Same recommendation here. Just wipe the chain sideplates after every ride. 
> Lasts a long time. When you start to hear chain noise, add another half 
> dozen drops.
>
> On Monday, April 14, 2014 9:35:05 AM UTC-4, danmc wrote:
>>
>> Patrick
>>
>> Not so sure about the solid waxes but do recommend you give NFS a try. 
>> Very highly recommended. 
>>
>> http://ballersride.com/shop/nixfrixshun-chainlube-nfs
>>
>> Dan
>>
>
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>
>

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[RBW] Heavy chain lubes for wet conditions.

[Zack B]

Riding year round in SF and PDX, I have experimented with almost every
chain lube available in extremely wet conditions.

The problem with wax lubes is that boiling your chain in wax is a major
pain in the ass, and while the wax lubes do a good job of staying on the
outside of the chain (where lubricant is not actually needed), they quickly
wear off the inside parts of the chain (where the lubricant is needed).

The best solution that I have found is a combination of a heavy oil, such
as chainsaw oil or Phil's, and a light oil, such as WD-40.

The advantage of a heavy oil is that it will stay inside the chain for much
longer than a light oil will, especially on a chain that is being soaked in
the rain. The problem is getting it inside the chain where it is needed,
rather than all over the chain, the chainstay, and your legs, where it is a
nasty mess.

The simple solution is to coat the chain with WD-40 first, thus creating a
thin film of light oil that allows the heavy oil to slip easily into the
pivot, and then to wipe the outside of the chain off. You don't need any
more than a single drop of heavy oil per pivot.

The other option is Boeshield. This creates a tacky film much like a chain
wax. It does not lubricate as well as a heavy oil, but stays on the chain
much longer and will likely protect it better against rust.



-- 
-Zack

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[RBW] Re: Anyone use front bag on a Sam like Rando-style?

[Neil]

I have the standard Acorn rando bag, on a Mark's rack, with Velo Orange's 
decaluer which mounts above the headset stack. All on a 55 cm drop bar Sam.
 
I love the combination. I just did 5 days of bikepacking with about 5 lbs 
in the front bag. The combo of the decaleur and the rack make it rock solid 
even off pavement, and I don't notice the weight affecting steering 
negatively at all. In fact, the weight over the Sam fork is much more 
stable than over my LHT fork (longer trail, perhaps, on the Riv fork...?).
 
I have a matching large Acorn seat bag, and the combo means I have lots of 
storage without ever going to panniers. 
 
BTW, I highly recommend the Acorn stuff. Pricy, but very well thought out, 
and top-shelf construction.
 
N.
On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 10:48:55 PM UTC-7, Michael wrote:

> Weight on front rack. Decaler holding the top of the bag? 
>
> How's the handling?
>

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Re: [RBW] Chain lube/wax

[gabe mcgann]

Not to sound ignorant, but how did you make the mixture? Do you melt it all 
and remelt for application?


On Monday, April 14, 2014 9:52:13 AM UTC-4, David Brandt wrote:
>
> After ruining several pairs of pants from grease stains I made the switch. 
> I have been riding with 4 parts paraffin to 1 part beeswax for the last 
> couple years and love it. I told Grant that I was doing it and he suggested 
> adding a little petroleum jelly to it. So now I run with an added 
> tablespoon of jelly in it.
>
> My bike drivetrain stays cleaner, seems quitter and I have not had an 
> issue with the chain. You can touch the components now and stay clean.
>
> I rewax it about every 400 - 500 miles. It is easy once your set up to do 
> it.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Mt. Brake levers on Mustache Bars?

[Zack B]

http://www.somafab.com/archives/product/lauterwasser-crmo-handlebar

http://www.somafab.com/archives/product/moustache-ii-bar




On Thu, Apr 10, 2014 at 11:32 AM,  wrote:

>
> Forgive me if this has been covered. Are there manufactured any  Mt. brake
> levers that can be used on mustache bars?  I do not like those reverse
> levers that mount into the bar ends, either.
>
> Thanks!
>
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-Zack

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[RBW] WTB: Sugino XD2 Crankset (w/BB preferably) and Rear Derailleur

[Michael Ullmer]

Help! I tried taking my new build out for a spin today and I have two 
impediments to its proper completion. My crankset is too narrow for the 
frame and hits the chainstays with each revolution and my rear derailleur 
does not function properly with the 8-speed cassette I have. I am hoping to 
get a sugino XD2 crankset with a bottom bracket since I don't have any 
square taper bottom brackets lying around. It's for a miyata valley runner 
if that helps. Also, a deore or deore xt rear derailleur would be 
sufficient, or something equivalent. It's for mountain gearing so it would 
need to be medium to long cage Contact me off-list please. Thank you!

Mike U.
Seattle

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Re: [RBW] Re: Best chain lube - ever

[Andrew Marchant-Shapiro]

My chain deserved a nice cleaning after 700 or so Chain-L miles.

It took an hour, and the chain was so disgusting that getting the link off was 
a serious challenge.  It was thoroughly crudded up.

But there was no noise for about 600 miles, so...

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[RBW] Bike Maryland RecRide on 5/18/14: Registration open! Help spread the word!

[Carol Silldorff]

Bike Maryland is happy to announce the 4th Annual RecRide bicycle tour out 
of Patterson Park in Baltimore City, Maryland on May 18, 2014. Two great, 
recreational bicycle tours, approximately 12 and 30 miles give you a 
close-up view of Charm City's neighborhoods, cultural areas and historic 
monuments. 

Stay in the park afterwards for the Bike Maryland Cake Party!

Find out more: www.bikemd.org

 

Early bird registration prices until May 5th. Ride start at 8:00 AM. 
Registration includes cue sheet, rest stops, SAG vehicles, free shirt, cake 
party after the ride and your invitation to the festivities at 
BikeJam! BikeJam will pay host to professional cycling races in Patterson 
Park, complete with a food truck rally by The Gathering, music, craft beer, 
exhibitors, activities and fun for all.

The RecRide is a Bike Maryland fundraiser. Bike Maryland is a 501c3 
non-profit organization with a mission to improve bicycling conditions on 
all levels! 

Volunteers needed!! Interested in marketing benefits associated with 
sponsoring or exhibiting? Contact Mary at m...@bikemd.org

Find out more: www.bikemd.org

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<>

[RBW] Re: Handlebar swap question

[DS]

Thanks all. I talked to a few people at Rivendell over the weekend and 
(think) I've decided on the Albastache route for now, partly from Brian's 
(rivendell's) recommendation and partly from Patrick's recent exploits here 
on the group. I have a few weeks to rethink it, which I'm sure I will. I 
was kind of digging the idea of swapping b/w albatross and bullmoose stds, 
but since the Albastache is somewhat in between the two offering both 
upright riding like the albatross for ascents and city riding with drops 
and brakes for greater control on the descents, I'll try it first. That 
being said, my only real concern I have are the brake hoods for non-trail 
riding, I had a moustache bar briefly on a road bike and never got used to 
the brake position for city/urban riding, got rid of it.

On Saturday, April 12, 2014 8:31:24 AM UTC-7, DS wrote:
>
> Hey all - My Hunqapillar is 2-3 weeks away from being built, very 
> exciting. No got to decide on the build. I'm mostly going with the build 
> kit. But very undecided on which handlebar setup. So instead of another 
> 'which handlebar thread' (btw, the recent one with Patrick was very 
> helpful), I decided I just need to figure out the hard way: by trying them 
> all. 
>
> I am undecided between Albatross v. Bulmoose 
> standard/drops/woodchippers/midge. I like the Albatross, that is what I 
> rode with the Hunq for a demo ride. But thinking I may want something with 
> more control for singletrack rides like the bullmoose, or possibly drops 
> (with the woodchipper and midge as an option there). Not really considering 
> Albastache or Moustacheas of now. This bike will be used for mixed 
> rides, mtn biking (fire roads and single track), commuting, errands, road 
> rides, so basically an 'all rounder'.
>
> My big reservation with handlebar swaps is that the meisha cork grips 
> (part of the build kit) are glued on, making it difficult to do handlebar 
> swaps. Am I correct there? So here's my question, if I get a lock-on 
> handlebar grip, does that eliminate that problem? Is there any reason I 
> could not just swap the bars by removing the grips, brakes, and shifters 
> (in this case the paul thumbies) and sliding the handlebars out the stem 
> and putting in the new handlebar in the same stem and re-installing the 
> grips/brakes/shifters? Basically a 10 minute swap? I've never dealt with 
> grips, only drop bars and tape on my road bike. Any issues with that? 
> Will the cable length be an issue? Would I want a different stem for 
> different handlebars?
>
> And on that note, any recommendations on a lock-on grip? Was looking at a 
> brooks one, the ergon one, and plain ole foam ones. Likely I'll put on the 
> meisha cork grips once I've decided which way to go.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] FS: Sam Hillborne - 60cm

[Roger]

My wife asked me to let the forum to know she is baffled at this one bike 
concept and not in agreement.

She peppered me with questions about how this would work: how would I get 
to work if my bike broke down, how would I get exercise, how would I have 
the right bike for shopping and a weekend ride?

I told her I had four running bikes and she replied that it seemed like at 
minimum five was a decent limit - not that she was counting...

On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 3:40:11 PM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
> I am glad I had many bikes when I met my wife, else she be tempted to 
> attempt a similar policy in our home ;)
>
>
> On Mon, Apr 14, 2014 at 11:48 AM, Mattt  >wrote:
>
>> I am selling my 60cm Sam Hillborne.  I estimate it has about 1000 miles 
>> on it.  The frame is in excellent condition.   There are 3-4 nicks on 
>> the frame. There is no chain scrapes or anything of the such on the chain 
>> stay.  The Sam has not been in crashes and always ridden with care.  
>> Framesaver 
>> was put on or in the Sam. I recently put on new wires for the brakes and 
>> derailers.  The moustache bar is a little beat up, but most of the 
>> scrapes are under the tape.  The moustache bar has a noticeable scrape 
>> near the clamp from a previous owner struggling to get it on.
>>
>> I had this for sale on craiglist in the past and someone on the list 
>> posted it here.   I found my white whale and why now putting this on the 
>> market again.  I have to conform to my wife’s one bike policy.
>>
>> I understand the moustache bar is not a desirable handlebar for some 
>> riders.  A dirt drop stem usually goes with the moustache bar  If this 
>> is the case, I will sell the bike without the moustache bar for $40 less 
>> and without the moustache bar and dirt drop stem for $100 less. 
>>
>> The Sam Hillborne does not include the rear rack and front and rear light 
>> seen in the pictures.  Also, the moustache bar no longer has tape.  I 
>> was doing some experimenting with handlebars.  I will update the 
>> pictures accordingly if you want to see without. 
>>
>> Please send me any questions.  
>> I am asking $2000 plus shipping.  Send me an offer you believe is fair.  The 
>> most I can say is no or barter and we can still be RBW friends.
>> I live in Oklahoma City, OK, if anyone is near by and wants to see in 
>> person.  
>> I did my best for detailed pictures.  If you need to see anything 
>> further let me know.
>>   
>> *https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3njnWUSiXUHNFZNZkFmenloREE&usp=sharing*
>>  
>>  Here is a list of the parts:
>>
>> Rear Wheel – White Industries MI5 hub with Velocity Synergy Rims
>>
>> Front Wheel – Shimano dynamo hub with Velocity Synergy Rims
>>
>> *Both wheels were built by Tony at Longleaf Cycles
>>
>> Tires – Schwalbe Marathon Supremes 700x32 (Lots of life left)
>>
>> Skewers – Velo Orange Quick Release
>>
>> Rear Cassette – Shimano XT M770 9 Speed – 11-32
>>
>> Rear Derailer – Shimano XT M772 Shadow
>>
>> Front Derailer – Shimano Ultregra 6700 Double
>>
>> Bottom Bracket – SKF
>>
>> Crank – Sugino Alpina 172.5mm Double 34x48
>>
>> Pedals – MKS Sylvan Touring with Power straps( I know someone out there 
>> loves them besides me)
>>
>> Fenders – Honjo 45mm Le Paon (There is a barely noticeable extra hole I 
>> drilled in wrong place.)
>>
>> Seatpost – Nitto S65
>>
>> Saddle – Brooks B17
>>
>> Brakes – Paul Components Racer
>>
>> Brake Levers – Cane Creek Aero Levers
>>
>> Shifters – Silver Shifters 
>>
>> Headset – Tange
>>
>> Stem – Nitto Dirt Drop 10cm and 26mm clamp
>>
>> Nitto Rear Brake hanger
>>  
>>  
>>
>>  
>>
>>  
>>
>>  
>>
>>  
>>
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>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com .
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>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: large Riv frame w/ tyre clearance for trail riding, e.g. 68 cm Atlantis

[Joe Bernard]

There's two 67cm Hilsen's on Ebay. It may not be considered a "trail bike" 
in the context of other bikes Riv sells, but its Country Bike label pegs it 
for that use, and I used to ride singletrack on a Romulus...arguably a 
frame less suited for the task. In other words, every Rivendell short of a 
Roadeo is designed to tackle dirt roads, and those Hilsen's are very nice 
bikes.
 
Joe Bernard
Vallejo, CA.

On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 12:51:22 PM UTC-7, Tom Harrop wrote:

> Hi list,
>
> It's (literally and figuratively) a tall ask, but I'm wondering if anyone 
> has a really large Riv frame and fork that they would like to sell or have 
> been thinking about selling. I'm looking for a bike for trail use so I'd 
> like Sam Hillborne tyre clearances and larger. V-brake/canti posts are also 
> desirable but not a strict requirement. I have a PBH of 100 cm so I need 
> the largest frame sizes made by Riv, e.g.:
>
> 68 cm Atlantis
> 68/64 cm Bombadil
> 64 cm Sam Hillborne
>
> If anyone sees something along these lines on Craigslist/eBay I'd also 
> love to hear about it.
>
> Just to add a layer of complexity, I'm in Europe so the theoretical seller 
> would have to be prepared to ship (obviously at my cost). This makes it 
> impractical for me to buy a complete bike, because the larger box required 
> if wheels are included causes shipping prices to skyrocket.
>
> By the way, I'm not out to undercut Riv on pricing or shopping for 
> bargains. I'd like to have something built up to ride this summer and 
> waiting for a new frame would make that pretty unlikely. If I don't hear 
> about anything for sale on the list, I plan to order a new 64 cm Sam from 
> RBWHQ (assuming they still make them).
>
> Thanks for reading,
>
> Tom
> Germany
>

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[RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[dougP]

Zack:

That's the cassette that came on my Atlantis.  I rarely used the 11 so it 
was like a 7 speed with a long, tall overdrive.  The 13-34 will be quite 
similar.  You give up the 11 for slightly wider cog spacing and slightly 
thicker cogs.  

Side note on small cog sizes:  my wife's Atlantis has 26" wheels.  The 
Compass 1.5" tire is just shy of 26" outside diameter, and she often uses 
her 11 small cog.  Her 8 speed is a standard 11-30 and with the small 
wheels she rarely uses the 24 x 30 lowest gear.  Mine has 700 wheels and 
the Soma C-lines are 28" in diameter.  I love having the 34 large cog, and 
the 46 x 13 highest gear is enough for my uses.  So I'm assuming a "big 
guy" is on 700 wheels with typically Riv-ish chubby tires.  Lots of times 
in these discussions tire size is ignored but it should be considered when 
evaluating gearing.  I'll put my chalk down now :-).  

dougP

On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 4:09:00 PM UTC-7, Zack wrote:

> "big guy living in Portland with friends who like to ride hills" sums it 
> up nicely.
>
> pretty sure I have 11-32 8 speed cassettes on both bikes.  standard xd2 
> triple setup from Riv.
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: large Riv frame w/ tyre clearance for trail riding, e.g. 68 cm Atlantis

[Tom Harrop]

Thanks for the replies. I would also be happy with a massive Hilsen, but it 
doesn't seem as sensible to get a 67 cm when Riv sells 72 cm frames 
(although I haven't worked out the max handlebar height on the 67 cm... 
maybe it's taller than a 64 cm Sam?). However I will keep an eye on those 
auctions and consider making contact if the complete bikes don't sell.

Tom

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[RBW] Re: Compass Loup Loup Pass 650Bx38

[Jim Bronson]

Sorry about the long delay.  Ended up riding the tandem for the week my
stepdaughter was here for Spring Break because she preferred it to my
wife's single.  Which was an unexpected development, but I don't use the
tandem nearly enough to justify the money I've put into it between the
purchase and the upgrades, so I'm glad it got some usage.  She got to do
her first organized rides on a road bike which was pretty cool.

So anyway I mounted up and rode the Loup Loup Pass tire for last weekend's
ride(s) on the back with the Pari-Moto on the front.  The first thing you
notice about the Loup Loup Pass is that the tread section seems a lot
thicker than the Pari Moto.  It mounts up about the same as a Pari-Moto,
which is to say you'll need to fiddle with the bead seating a little bit to
get the line above the bead uniformly visible around the tire.

Saturday I saddled up to ride the Houston-Austin MS150 with what was by far
the most unique looking bike on the team.  But anyway.  The riding
experience doesn't really seem that much different than the Pari-Moto.  It
seems to roll and corner pretty well, with a similar plush ride.  If there
is greater rolling resistance vs the Pari-Moto, it was pretty hard to
quantify.  Frankly, I was glad to have the much thicker tread beneath the
back tire at least.  The Pari-Motos gave me a somewhat constant flat
anxiety, since I had been experiencing so many flats with the back tire.  I
very rarely flat up front so I figured I was safe up there with a thinner
tire.

Or was I...about 5 miles west of Bastrop, Texas, it rained a little bit and
what do you know, the Pari Moto went flat.  Probably my first front flat in
4000+ miles.  I could have fixed it and soldiered on with the Pari Moto but
I was carrying a spare Loup Loup Pass in my Carradice.  So I said, the heck
with this and I mounted the Loup Loup Pass on the front wheel for the
remaining 33 or so miles into Austin.  I did notice with two Loup Loups
mounted that there did seem to be a bit more tire noise, but I didn't feel
that my effort level had been noticeably increased, and the ride was just
as plush.

I took some caliper measurements just now after the bike sat for a couple
of days.  The back tire after 186 miles is just a hair under 39mm.  The
front tire after 33ish miles measured dead on 37mm.

All and all, I am happy with the Loup Loups and most likely will continue
to use them for a while.

On a side note, my Rivendell with gumwall 38mm tires and white longboards
got TONS of compliments from all the people on their 700x23 racyish bikes.
 Literally dozens each day of the ride.  I could go into detail but I won't
bore you all ;)

-Jim




On Mon, Mar 24, 2014 at 10:42 PM, Jim Bronson  wrote:

> I bought 3 of the regular, non-EL model with tan sidewalls around 12:45
> PDT.  Shipping via Priority Mail, so hopefully they will be here by
> Thursday.  I will let you all know how they measure out on my Synergies.
>
> Also will be taking them out on the Austin 400K this weekend, after my 5
> flat weekend on the Houston 600K on the 15th/16th on Pari-Motos, I am
> hoping for a little better luck on these Loup Loup Passses.
>
> --
> Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down!
>



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[RBW] Hunqapillar Fenders.....

[Marcus80]

I have a 62 cm Hunqapillar and am wondering what is the widest non knobby 
tire/ fender combo you've had luck with. My tange headset needs replacing 
and my feeling is a CK 2Nut unless there is a strong Cane Creek 110 rec. 
I've got some Rich Lesnik built OC 36h Synergies laced to LX hubs that I'll 
be replacing with a Schmidt and either a White MI5 or a Phil Wood rear 40h 
on Dyads. The wheelset may be FS but not until I get the new ones. I 
bought  an AHH and have loaded it down for touring and it is exceptional, 
particularly in the heft department. My thought is that I would use Hunqy 
for really off the beaten path and touring duty and make an attempt to 
"lighten" up the HIlsen. The Hilsen currently has the dyad/phil/son28 set 
up, so ostensibly I could switch those wheels to the HUnq and build 
something lighter for it. I am however six and a third feet tall and 275 
after an extensive tasting menu that started around Halloween, 2013. Any 
and all help would be appreciated. Thank you so muchMark

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