[RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[Thomas Lynn Skean]

Oh, and I should note that this IRD specificity is noted in the "hub
dimensions" document on Phil Wood's site. Where, interestingly, it
does *not* list the dimensions for the IRD-intended hubs.

I should also add that I suspect that this IRD difference is actually
a modern usage by IRD of a standard which has been around for some
time, the "compact" freewheel. Can anyone confirm/deny/clarify?

Insomniacally yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean


On Feb 14, 1:50 am, Thomas Lynn Skean 
wrote:
> Hi.
>
> It seems that Phil Wood has created a hub specifically to be used with the 
> IRD freewheel. I think it has to do with the IRD freewheel's sprockets being 
> spaced more closely than, say, the Shimano freewheel's. Or maybe there are 
> other differences as well.
>
> In any case, there is some significant difference in something. For when I 
> put the RBW-sold Shimano freewheel on my hub, it does not "coast" freely at 
> all. Now, maybe there's supposed to be a break-in period. But I don't think 
> that's what this is. The IRD freewheels I've used had no similar issues when 
> first installed.
>
> Yours,
> Thomas Lynn Skean
>
> On Feb 13, 2011, at 6:31 PM, omnigrid  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Phil Wood IRD hub?
>
> > I think you maybe confused. IRD is a company or brand.
>
> > On Sun, Feb 13, 2011 at 5:54 PM, JoelMatthews  wrote:
> > I have no experience at all with IRD.
>
> > On my camper bike I use a Shimano Megarange FW.  On my more sporting
> > bike I have a Suntour Winner.
>
> > Picked up both from the eBay NOS store.  No problems with either.
>
> > On Feb 13, 4:45 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean 
> > wrote:
> > > Hello, all!
>
> > > Does anyone have any experience using the "Shimanopore" freewheel on a
> > > Phil Wood "IRD" 7-speed freewheel hub? Does anyone have any experience
> > > using the "Shimanopore" freewheel with a "normal" (i.e. non-"IRD") 7-
> > > speed freewheel hub?
>
> > > I've had to replace three IRD 7-speed freewheels in 7 months. The
> > > first one (13-28) lasted a couple thousand miles but then started to
> > > fail to catch within a reasonable amount of rotation. The next one
> > > (non-mega 13-32) didn't work at all; the small cog was broken. The
> > > next one (non-mega 13-32) lasted only a few hundred miles before
> > > starting to "freeze" (introducing top-of-the-stay slack) and then,
> > > within a week or so, began to fail to catch like the first one.
>
> > > It had just gotten cold when the first one failed. It has just been
> > > *really* cold when the third one failed. I don't know if that's
> > > related.
>
> > > If these freewheels typically last only a couple thousand mikes, I'll
> > > be disappointed but I'll deal. If there's an alternative freewheel
> > > like the Shimano I'll use those. If fteewheels are just this
> > > inconsistent and I can't find an alternative freewheel arrangement,
> > > I'll switch to a cassette system ASAP and move on.
>
> > > Anybody have any insights / info / suggestions?
>
> > > Yours,
> > > Thomas Lynn Skean
>
> > --
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[RBW] Re: Chilly Hilly?

[soapscum]

Anyone else planning on engaging in the .83 FHR insanity that occurs
on the same route/same day? They're a fun bunch o' bike lovers, and
Riv is actually a sponsor (yay, Riv!). I'll be in tweed on my
Hillborne; say hi. Oh, they have free beer, too.

sean

PS I ran into a local on a double-toptube Hillborne on the way to Alki
last week, so here's a shout out. Nice leather on-anything-else-they'd-
be-saddlebags-but-on-bikes-we-have-to-call-em panniers!

On Feb 13, 2:32 am, Benedikt  wrote:
> I just received myChillyHillyPacket in the mail today and the bib
> number has a free drink ticket for the Pyramid Brewery on the same
> day.  Anyone else heading over there after the ride?
>
> On Jan 23, 10:44 am, Benedikt  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Any Seattle Riv owners plan on ridingChillyHillythis year?  Or non
> > Seattle Riv owners?http://shop.cascade.org/content/events/chilly-hilly

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[RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[Angus]

Thomas,

I'm not sure what "really" cold is (live in the south), but I have a
new Shimano freewheel on my Atlantis and it's worked great so far.
Friday's commute to work was 19 degrees, the one prior to that was in
the low 20s with several inches of snow.  Today, a more typical low
50s :-)

These haven't been out there a long time so I don't have a ton of
miles on them (I purchased several from my LBS), but so far so good.

Using it on a Phil Wood/RBW touring hub :-)

Angus

On Feb 13, 4:45 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean 
wrote:
> Hello, all!
>
> Does anyone have any experience using the "Shimanopore" freewheel on a
> Phil Wood "IRD" 7-speed freewheel hub? Does anyone have any experience
> using the "Shimanopore" freewheel with a "normal" (i.e. non-"IRD") 7-
> speed freewheel hub?
>
> I've had to replace three IRD 7-speed freewheels in 7 months. The
> first one (13-28) lasted a couple thousand miles but then started to
> fail to catch within a reasonable amount of rotation. The next one
> (non-mega 13-32) didn't work at all; the small cog was broken. The
> next one (non-mega 13-32) lasted only a few hundred miles before
> starting to "freeze" (introducing top-of-the-stay slack) and then,
> within a week or so, began to fail to catch like the first one.
>
> It had just gotten cold when the first one failed. It has just been
> *really* cold when the third one failed. I don't know if that's
> related.
>
> If these freewheels typically last only a couple thousand mikes, I'll
> be disappointed but I'll deal. If there's an alternative freewheel
> like the Shimano I'll use those. If fteewheels are just this
> inconsistent and I can't find an alternative freewheel arrangement,
> I'll switch to a cassette system ASAP and move on.
>
> Anybody have any insights / info / suggestions?
>
> Yours,
> Thomas Lynn Skean

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[RBW] Re: Should I fret over crashed h'bars?

[Angus]

Ray,

Sorry about the crash...those are never good.

If it were me, and it's not, but if it were I would see if the Nitto
handlebars were bent.
If they were not bent I would keep using them.

If it really bothers you, replace them.

There are also "crack check" (dye penetrant) kits out there...at about
the cost of new bars...race car places often have these kits.

Angus

On Feb 12, 12:01 pm, Ray  wrote:
> My avid cycling neighbor was commiserating with me over my recent bike
> crash (I broke a collar bone and cracked four ribs) and told me about
> the time he hit a rough spot too hard on his recumbent and his
> aluminum downtube snapped completely in half. That got me to start
> fretting over the condition of my aluminum handlebars.
>
> I crashed while riding my canti-Romulus. The bike actually faired very
> well, all things considered. Like me, it suffered some substantial
> road rash, but unlike me, nothing else was bent or broken.  Now, I'm
> thinking I should scrap the Nitto noodles just to be on the safe side.
> The handlebars are not bent, but they did get jammed into a tight spot
> between the asphalt and the bottom of a steel guard rail and both bar-
> end pods are torn up and the taping is scrappy and cut. I'm thinking
> maybe some hairline crack that as-of-now I can't see will
> catastrophically fail on me.  Should I replace, or just re-wrap?  Am I
> under-estimating the Nitto heat-treating process?
>
> While I'm on the subject, should I have the same concern for the right-
> side Sugino crank arm?

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[RBW] Re: Another Rivendell... which one?

[MichaelH]

Pardon me, but could you help me understand why the bike wouldn't fit
on a hitch or roof rack?  Maybe all you need is a second set of wheels
and a nice Saris hitch rack?

michael

On Feb 13, 10:41 am, JimP  wrote:
> I have  a Sam Hillborne which I love, I ordered it with a 56 cm frame
> and, as it turns out, I should have ordered the 54. Even so, it rides
> like a dream. I have a farm located about 200 miles from home. It is
> difficult to carry the bike back and forth without taking two cars so,
> ahem... I have an excuse to buy another Rivendell. :^)
> To be honest I really want an A. Homer Hilson but I do realize it is
> very similar (functionally identical) to the Hillborne. That's OK as
> the two bikes will be at different locations but I should at least
> give thought to another type Rivendell, maybe an Atlantis, a Rodeo,
> Ramboulet or... What do you think?
>
> I am 60 yo and have really just gotten into cycling. At home I ride
> around the city just absorbing the beauty of being outdoors in a
> wonderful old city. I take a camera sometimes and like photographing
> some of the beauty (including bike) around me. But, mostly I just
> enjoy the ride. I usually ride for about 40 minutes to an hour and
> head back home. At the Farm I have access to about 3000 acres of
> pastures and hardwood forests with horse trails and, no trails at all.
> I want to explore this area with my bike again, just enjoying the
> scenery and being outside alone with nature.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> best,
>
> JimP

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[RBW] Re: Should I fret over crashed h'bars?

[Jay LePree]

Dear Ray,

I am sorry to hear about your accident, and I hope you mend quickly
and completely.  I recall reading in one of the Rivendell readers an
interview of the owner of Nitto by Grant Petersen.  My understanding
from the article is that Nitto makes very strong handlebars, and
performs rigorous quality control testing of the bars to ensure that
they meet Nitto's high quality standards.  (As I recall, their
standards for strength and durability are high relative other
companies.)  Despite this, the owner of Nitto made a comment that
stayed with me.  He said the even strong aluminum bars will weaken
over time.  If bars are kept on a shelf for 5 years, they will weaken
relative to their strength when they were first manufactured.

After reading that comment, I replace my bars every 5 to 6 years, and
would replace them after a significant crash.  I may be overly
cautious, but there are many other places I would rather be than one a
bicycle going 30+ mph down a hill with a cracked handlebar.  As
someone pointed out, the $40 to $50 bar is cheaper than dental work,
and it buys peace of mind.

Regards,

Jay

Demarest, NJ

On Feb 14, 5:49 am, Angus  wrote:
> Ray,
>
> Sorry about the crash...those are never good.
>
> If it were me, and it's not, but if it were I would see if the Nitto
> handlebars were bent.
> If they were not bent I would keep using them.
>
> If it really bothers you, replace them.
>
> There are also "crack check" (dye penetrant) kits out there...at about
> the cost of new bars...race car places often have these kits.
>
> Angus
>
> On Feb 12, 12:01 pm, Ray  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > My avid cycling neighbor was commiserating with me over my recent bike
> > crash (I broke a collar bone and cracked four ribs) and told me about
> > the time he hit a rough spot too hard on his recumbent and his
> > aluminum downtube snapped completely in half. That got me to start
> > fretting over the condition of my aluminum handlebars.
>
> > I crashed while riding my canti-Romulus. The bike actually faired very
> > well, all things considered. Like me, it suffered some substantial
> > road rash, but unlike me, nothing else was bent or broken.  Now, I'm
> > thinking I should scrap the Nitto noodles just to be on the safe side.
> > The handlebars are not bent, but they did get jammed into a tight spot
> > between the asphalt and the bottom of a steel guard rail and both bar-
> > end pods are torn up and the taping is scrappy and cut. I'm thinking
> > maybe some hairline crack that as-of-now I can't see will
> > catastrophically fail on me.  Should I replace, or just re-wrap?  Am I
> > under-estimating the Nitto heat-treating process?
>
> > While I'm on the subject, should I have the same concern for the right-
> > side Sugino crank arm?

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[RBW] Re: Another Rivendell... which one?

[Earl Grey]

Assuming equal number of top tubes, my guess is that the Sam falls
between the Hilsen and the Atlantis, based on its description on
rivbike.com: "It's a cross between the Atlantis, our cantilever-braked
touring bike, and the A. Homer HIlsen, our roadish country bike. "It's
a cross..." means it has tubing halfway in between the two (in wall
thickness...) and the 40mm max tire clearance (and straight
chainstays) of the A.Homer Hilsen.

I don't know about the Homer, but the Sam will do you good service on
the farm, assuming the stand over is not too tight. I run 40mm tires
on the Sam with fenders, and 42mm knobbies have plenty of space
without fenders, and I am able ride some fairly technical singletrack
with that setup. 45mm would probably fit as well, but haven't tried
that.

If you run something wider than a true 42-43 on a Sam, can you add a
reply to the tire thread on the Hillborne Flickr page, please?
http://www.flickr.com/groups/hillborne/discuss/72157625871894524/

Cheers,

Gernot


On Feb 14, 12:48 pm, CycloFiend  wrote:
> on 2/13/11 5:11 PM, JimP at thefamil...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> > OK, two questions that have nothing to do with the ride quality.
>
> > I know weight is a taboo question but I like in a row house and have
> > to carry my bikes up a fair number of stairs. Can someone list the
> > frames in order lightest to heaviest?
>
> Now, now...weight isn't taboo.  We just don't fixate on it. ;^)
>
> I'd reckon, based on nothing other than a guess:
> (bird-boned to stout roleur)
> Roadeo & San Marcos
> Legolas
> Quickbeam/SimpLeone
> Ramboulliet
> Hilsen
> Atlantis
> Hillborne
> Yves/Betty
> Hunquapillar
> Bombadil
>
> Some variances for interstitial models with fewer tubes, of course.
>
> But, I'd also say that since the frame varies by 1 or 2 pounds max, and your
> build would likely be mid 20's, that the frame weight is really only a
> quarter of the built bike weight.  So, if you are building it up, that other
> 3/4 is where you want to look.  Wheels, bb, saddle, etc...  all those things
> where losing the next pound is exponentially more expensive.
>
> > On the Rivendell site there are a number of Atlantis bikes pictured.
> > Which color do you get without having to pay more?
>
> Standard color on the Atlantis has been the "creamy greenish blue", as
> stated in the bicycle text.  You may just be noticing variance in color
> balance in the photos, though I think there are three custom colors also
> shown.
>
> - J
>
> --
> Jim Edgar
> cyclofi...@earthlink.net
>
> Gallery updates now appear here -http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com
>
> Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
> Current Classics - Cross Bikes
> Singlespeed - Working Bikes

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Re: [RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[Seth Vidal]

On Sun, Feb 13, 2011 at 11:57 PM, james  wrote:
> fwiw I've also had one ird freewheel fail on me entirely and the one
> i'm using right now 'freezes' when the weather gets cold.  i
> appreciate the info on the cold and the grease, but i would like to
> know also if there are other good freewheels that run about
> 13-32/34... i could only find cheap ones i trusted less than the ird,
> but now i'm not so sure...
>


I've never used them but I wonder how the sunrace ones are?

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=31292&category=402



For $19 - cheap enough to try one out and find out if they are awful or good.

-sv

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[RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[rperks]

The difference between the touring and IRD as far as I know is in the
spacers or endcaps, this was published somewhere in the iBOB archives
in the last two years.  As for the specs from phil, they are in a slow
process of fixing their published data, call them and they are great
on the phone.  The threading is the same, english standard.  If you
freewheel is truly binding, that is weird.  is it rubbing anywhere,
back of the freewheel against the hub flange?  or at the stays?  As
for break in there should not need to be much, unsless you again have
frozen grease problems.

Rob

On Feb 13, 11:50 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean 
wrote:
> Hi.
>
> It seems that Phil Wood has created a hub specifically to be used with the 
> IRD freewheel. I think it has to do with the IRD freewheel's sprockets being 
> spaced more closely than, say, the Shimano freewheel's. Or maybe there are 
> other differences as well.
>
> In any case, there is some significant difference in something. For when I 
> put the RBW-sold Shimano freewheel on my hub, it does not "coast" freely at 
> all. Now, maybe there's supposed to be a break-in period. But I don't think 
> that's what this is. The IRD freewheels I've used had no similar issues when 
> first installed.
>
> Yours,
> Thomas Lynn Skean
>
> On Feb 13, 2011, at 6:31 PM, omnigrid  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Phil Wood IRD hub?
>
> > I think you maybe confused. IRD is a company or brand.
>
> > On Sun, Feb 13, 2011 at 5:54 PM, JoelMatthews  wrote:
> > I have no experience at all with IRD.
>
> > On my camper bike I use a Shimano Megarange FW.  On my more sporting
> > bike I have a Suntour Winner.
>
> > Picked up both from the eBay NOS store.  No problems with either.
>
> > On Feb 13, 4:45 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean 
> > wrote:
> > > Hello, all!
>
> > > Does anyone have any experience using the "Shimanopore" freewheel on a
> > > Phil Wood "IRD" 7-speed freewheel hub? Does anyone have any experience
> > > using the "Shimanopore" freewheel with a "normal" (i.e. non-"IRD") 7-
> > > speed freewheel hub?
>
> > > I've had to replace three IRD 7-speed freewheels in 7 months. The
> > > first one (13-28) lasted a couple thousand miles but then started to
> > > fail to catch within a reasonable amount of rotation. The next one
> > > (non-mega 13-32) didn't work at all; the small cog was broken. The
> > > next one (non-mega 13-32) lasted only a few hundred miles before
> > > starting to "freeze" (introducing top-of-the-stay slack) and then,
> > > within a week or so, began to fail to catch like the first one.
>
> > > It had just gotten cold when the first one failed. It has just been
> > > *really* cold when the third one failed. I don't know if that's
> > > related.
>
> > > If these freewheels typically last only a couple thousand mikes, I'll
> > > be disappointed but I'll deal. If there's an alternative freewheel
> > > like the Shimano I'll use those. If fteewheels are just this
> > > inconsistent and I can't find an alternative freewheel arrangement,
> > > I'll switch to a cassette system ASAP and move on.
>
> > > Anybody have any insights / info / suggestions?
>
> > > Yours,
> > > Thomas Lynn Skean
>
> > --
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>
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>
> - Show quoted text -

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Re: [RBW] Re: Should I fret over crashed h'bars?

[Ray Shine]

Thank you all for your advice and for the well-wishes.  Worse for me than the 
injuries is the long recovery and rehab period -- just as the ideal riding 
weather comes upon us.  Very frustrating.  


I have not yet mentioned this, but I actually was making a "panda" video with a 
helmet cam when this crash occurred.  I don't know if it's acceptable to 
Cyclofiend to post the vid on his new Flickr RBW Video group, but if it is I 
intend to do that after a bit of editing and clipping.  (None of you care to 
watch 3 straight minutes of blue sky and the sound of me wheezing and moaning 
as 
I lay sprawled on the asphalt and struggle to regain some modicum of conscious 
composure.)  Embarrassing as it is, I think there is considerable value in the 
clip as a how-not -to-do-several -things, as well as an interesting real-time 
look at an actual crash dynamic.  Amazingly, the camera never stopped running 
through the crash, and I have more than 12 minutes of crash and aftermath 
video. 
Plus, the vid is full of Riv content.

As for the bars.  I have decided to do what most have recommended. I will 
replace the bars and not have that to fret about.  


Thank you again.





From: Jay LePree 
To: RBW Owners Bunch 
Sent: Mon, February 14, 2011 5:11:09 AM
Subject: [RBW] Re: Should I fret over crashed h'bars?

Dear Ray,

I am sorry to hear about your accident, and I hope you mend quickly
and completely.  I recall reading in one of the Rivendell readers an
interview of the owner of Nitto by Grant Petersen.  My understanding
from the article is that Nitto makes very strong handlebars, and
performs rigorous quality control testing of the bars to ensure that
they meet Nitto's high quality standards.  (As I recall, their
standards for strength and durability are high relative other
companies.)  Despite this, the owner of Nitto made a comment that
stayed with me.  He said the even strong aluminum bars will weaken
over time.  If bars are kept on a shelf for 5 years, they will weaken
relative to their strength when they were first manufactured.

After reading that comment, I replace my bars every 5 to 6 years, and
would replace them after a significant crash.  I may be overly
cautious, but there are many other places I would rather be than one a
bicycle going 30+ mph down a hill with a cracked handlebar.  As
someone pointed out, the $40 to $50 bar is cheaper than dental work,
and it buys peace of mind.

Regards,

Jay

Demarest, NJ

On Feb 14, 5:49 am, Angus  wrote:
> Ray,
>
> Sorry about the crash...those are never good.
>
> If it were me, and it's not, but if it were I would see if the Nitto
> handlebars were bent.
> If they were not bent I would keep using them.
>
> If it really bothers you, replace them.
>
> There are also "crack check" (dye penetrant) kits out there...at about
> the cost of new bars...race car places often have these kits.
>
> Angus
>
> On Feb 12, 12:01 pm, Ray  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > My avid cycling neighbor was commiserating with me over my recent bike
> > crash (I broke a collar bone and cracked four ribs) and told me about
> > the time he hit a rough spot too hard on his recumbent and his
> > aluminum downtube snapped completely in half. That got me to start
> > fretting over the condition of my aluminum handlebars.
>
> > I crashed while riding my canti-Romulus. The bike actually faired very
> > well, all things considered. Like me, it suffered some substantial
> > road rash, but unlike me, nothing else was bent or broken.  Now, I'm
> > thinking I should scrap the Nitto noodles just to be on the safe side.
> > The handlebars are not bent, but they did get jammed into a tight spot
> > between the asphalt and the bottom of a steel guard rail and both bar-
> > end pods are torn up and the taping is scrappy and cut. I'm thinking
> > maybe some hairline crack that as-of-now I can't see will
> > catastrophically fail on me.  Should I replace, or just re-wrap?  Am I
> > under-estimating the Nitto heat-treating process?
>
> > While I'm on the subject, should I have the same concern for the right-
> > side Sugino crank arm?

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[RBW] FS: Rambouillet: TA, White Ind, Phil, Honjo.... more.

[stevep33]

Rambouillet, size 56, complete bicycle minus pedals and saddle.
$1700 (price includes the cost of professional packing and shipping in
the continental US)

I will be sad to see this bicycle go.  The orange Rambouillet paint is
dazzling.  There are many nice components in the deal - see list
below.  It rides terrifically.
I'm the second owner of the frame, brakes and stem, but all other
components were new (or NOS) in late 2009 and have 2000 miles on them.
The tires and brake/shifter cables have a few hundred miles only.
Saddle and pedals are NOT included.

I am very pleased with the condition of this bicycle.   There are a
scratches on the fender/rack eyelets from normal use.  I see two other
scratches on the frame (near the right side shifter, non-drive side
chainstay); I tried to document these scratches in the photo set.  The
back edge of the rear fender has a scratch too that was hard to
photograph, sorry.  There no dents or rust on the frame.

Pictures
http://www.flickr.com/photos/27988383@N06/sets/72157626028650710/

TA Pro 5 Vis Cranks with 46/30 chainrings & TA dustcaps
Phil Wood 119mm bottom bracket
Suntour Superbe Pro front derailleur
Silver downtube shifters
XTR rear derailleur, med cage, low normal
13-30 9 speed Shimano cassette (Harris Cyclery - Century Special)
Mavic Open Pro rims, White Industries hubs MI5 rear (135 mm) 32 hole,
H2 front 32 hole - built by Peter White Cycles
Challenge Parigi-Roubaix 700x27 tires (about 29mm wide)
no-name titanium allen-head skewers
Honjo 41mm round, smooth aluminum fenders
Sheldon fender nuts
Nitto Pearl stem 10cm
Nitto Soba 44cm handlebars
Cane Creek SCR-5 brake levers
Fizik bar tape
Tektro 521A brakes
Velo Orange Grand Cru seatpost - cut several cm's from its original
30cm length.
9 speed chain (brand?)
tubes and rim tape - yep, got those too.

Payment via PayPal.

You can email me at steve...@gmail.com.

Thanks for looking,

Steve

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Re: [RBW] Re: Should I fret over crashed h'bars?

[Seth Vidal]

On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 9:13 AM, Ray Shine  wrote:
> Thank you all for your advice and for the well-wishes.  Worse for me than
> the injuries is the long recovery and rehab period -- just as the ideal
> riding weather comes upon us.  Very frustrating.
>
> I have not yet mentioned this, but I actually was making a "panda" video
> with a helmet cam when this crash occurred.  I don't know if it's acceptable
> to Cyclofiend to post the vid on his new Flickr RBW Video group, but if it
> is I intend to do that after a bit of editing and clipping.  (None of you
> care to watch 3 straight minutes of blue sky and the sound of me wheezing
> and moaning as I lay sprawled on the asphalt and struggle to regain some
> modicum of conscious composure.)  Embarrassing as it is, I think there is
> considerable value in the clip as a how-not -to-do-several -things, as well
> as an interesting real-time look at an actual crash dynamic.  Amazingly, the
> camera never stopped running through the crash, and I have more than 12
> minutes of crash and aftermath video. Plus, the vid is full of Riv content.
>
> As for the bars.  I have decided to do what most have recommended. I will
> replace the bars and not have that to fret about.
>

Ray, Sorry about your crash - if you post that video  please preface
that video with 10s of black or something and a warning. I really do
not feel like triggering any memories of my fall. I was lucky, I
didn't break my collarbone, only one of my elbows but I am NOT
interested in reliving it.

no fun, at all.
-sv

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Re: [RBW] Re: Should I fret over crashed h'bars?

[Ray Shine]

Will do.  





From: Seth Vidal 
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Mon, February 14, 2011 6:44:14 AM
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Should I fret over crashed h'bars?

On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 9:13 AM, Ray Shine  wrote:
> Thank you all for your advice and for the well-wishes.  Worse for me than
> the injuries is the long recovery and rehab period -- just as the ideal
> riding weather comes upon us.  Very frustrating.
>
> I have not yet mentioned this, but I actually was making a "panda" video
> with a helmet cam when this crash occurred.  I don't know if it's acceptable
> to Cyclofiend to post the vid on his new Flickr RBW Video group, but if it
> is I intend to do that after a bit of editing and clipping.  (None of you
> care to watch 3 straight minutes of blue sky and the sound of me wheezing
> and moaning as I lay sprawled on the asphalt and struggle to regain some
> modicum of conscious composure.)  Embarrassing as it is, I think there is
> considerable value in the clip as a how-not -to-do-several -things, as well
> as an interesting real-time look at an actual crash dynamic.  Amazingly, the
> camera never stopped running through the crash, and I have more than 12
> minutes of crash and aftermath video. Plus, the vid is full of Riv content.
>
> As for the bars.  I have decided to do what most have recommended. I will
> replace the bars and not have that to fret about.
>

Ray, Sorry about your crash - if you post that video  please preface
that video with 10s of black or something and a warning. I really do
not feel like triggering any memories of my fall. I was lucky, I
didn't break my collarbone, only one of my elbows but I am NOT
interested in reliving it.

no fun, at all.
-sv

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[RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[JoelMatthews]

Guess I ned to get out more as I had no idea there were IRD freewheel
specific hubs.  Seems counterintuitive to me.

All my multigear bikes have freewheels as I use vintage hubs.  While I
have a pretty good store of NOS freewheels, I was happy to see IRD
coming out with a new line of freewheels, as it at once assured supply
and took pressure off the price of NOS freewheels.  Riding on vintage
hubs is not for everyone.  There are plenty of us out there, however.
Not surprisingly really, as a well maintained hub can last many years.

Much as I like my vintage freewheel hubs, the need for a new freewheel
hubs escapes me.  Cassette freewheels are in fact easier to use and
maintain.  Seems to me those buying new but not wanting 10 or 11 cogs
in the back would be better served looking for nos 7 - 9 cog cassettes
to put on a modern cassett hub than buying an all new freewheel set
up.

On Feb 14, 7:51 am, rperks  wrote:
> The difference between the touring and IRD as far as I know is in the
> spacers or endcaps, this was published somewhere in the iBOB archives
> in the last two years.  As for the specs from phil, they are in a slow
> process of fixing their published data, call them and they are great
> on the phone.  The threading is the same, english standard.  If you
> freewheel is truly binding, that is weird.  is it rubbing anywhere,
> back of the freewheel against the hub flange?  or at the stays?  As
> for break in there should not need to be much, unsless you again have
> frozen grease problems.
>
> Rob
>
> On Feb 13, 11:50 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean 
> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Hi.
>
> > It seems that Phil Wood has created a hub specifically to be used with the 
> > IRD freewheel. I think it has to do with the IRD freewheel's sprockets 
> > being spaced more closely than, say, the Shimano freewheel's. Or maybe 
> > there are other differences as well.
>
> > In any case, there is some significant difference in something. For when I 
> > put the RBW-sold Shimano freewheel on my hub, it does not "coast" freely at 
> > all. Now, maybe there's supposed to be a break-in period. But I don't think 
> > that's what this is. The IRD freewheels I've used had no similar issues 
> > when first installed.
>
> > Yours,
> > Thomas Lynn Skean
>
> > On Feb 13, 2011, at 6:31 PM, omnigrid  wrote:
>
> > > Phil Wood IRD hub?
>
> > > I think you maybe confused. IRD is a company or brand.
>
> > > On Sun, Feb 13, 2011 at 5:54 PM, JoelMatthews  
> > > wrote:
> > > I have no experience at all with IRD.
>
> > > On my camper bike I use a Shimano Megarange FW.  On my more sporting
> > > bike I have a Suntour Winner.
>
> > > Picked up both from the eBay NOS store.  No problems with either.
>
> > > On Feb 13, 4:45 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean 
> > > wrote:
> > > > Hello, all!
>
> > > > Does anyone have any experience using the "Shimanopore" freewheel on a
> > > > Phil Wood "IRD" 7-speed freewheel hub? Does anyone have any experience
> > > > using the "Shimanopore" freewheel with a "normal" (i.e. non-"IRD") 7-
> > > > speed freewheel hub?
>
> > > > I've had to replace three IRD 7-speed freewheels in 7 months. The
> > > > first one (13-28) lasted a couple thousand miles but then started to
> > > > fail to catch within a reasonable amount of rotation. The next one
> > > > (non-mega 13-32) didn't work at all; the small cog was broken. The
> > > > next one (non-mega 13-32) lasted only a few hundred miles before
> > > > starting to "freeze" (introducing top-of-the-stay slack) and then,
> > > > within a week or so, began to fail to catch like the first one.
>
> > > > It had just gotten cold when the first one failed. It has just been
> > > > *really* cold when the third one failed. I don't know if that's
> > > > related.
>
> > > > If these freewheels typically last only a couple thousand mikes, I'll
> > > > be disappointed but I'll deal. If there's an alternative freewheel
> > > > like the Shimano I'll use those. If fteewheels are just this
> > > > inconsistent and I can't find an alternative freewheel arrangement,
> > > > I'll switch to a cassette system ASAP and move on.
>
> > > > Anybody have any insights / info / suggestions?
>
> > > > Yours,
> > > > Thomas Lynn Skean
>
> > > --
> > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> > > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> > > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com.
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
> > > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > > For more options, visit this group 
> > > athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
>
> > > --
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> > > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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> > > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > > For more options, visit this group 
> > > athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-

[RBW] Re: SoCal Riv Ride - Feb 12 in SD

[Esteban]

I have some photos up from my camera phone - and a write-up on the
blog:

http://veloflaneur.wordpress.com/2011/02/14/all-tires-welcome/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/25671211@N02/sets/72157625919265243/

The route is worth studying for anyone planning a vacation in San
Diego. Wow!  Thanks, Dustin!

Esteban
San Diego, Calif.

On Feb 13, 7:55 pm, doug peterson  wrote:
> Some of the most interesting "roads" aren't paved.  And we saw some
> pretty interesting stuff yesterday!
>
> You're correct David; your tire was just low, not flat.
>
> dougP
>
> On Feb 13, 5:53 pm, cyclotourist  wrote:
>
>
>
> > That's my favorite response!!!
>
> > On Sun, Feb 13, 2011 at 3:39 PM, Michael_S wrote:
>
> > > I was a little worried in riding the rock gardens on the 2nd half of
> > > the ride on the Jack Brown greensDustin led us on on some pretty
> > > rough stuff... but I escaped with nary a scratch.   Some hiker we
> > > passed was pretty amazed we were on that trail on "road" bikes.
>
> > > ~Mike
>
> > > On Feb 13, 1:45 pm, cyclotourist  wrote:
> > > > How 'bout "Zero flat repairs"?  Slow leaks that had to be topped off
> > > don't
> > > > count!  :-)
>
> > > > On Sun, Feb 13, 2011 at 1:16 PM, doug peterson 
> > > wrote:
> > > > > Sorry I had to leave before the main group finished.  That was so much
> > > > > fun we need to start planning the next event.  Hey, everyone must have
> > > > > gotten the tire thing worked out:  ZERO flats, right?
>
> > > > > dougP
>
> > > > > On Feb 13, 8:03 am, cyclotourist  wrote:
> > > > > > And once again, we've been able to have another great ride in SoCal!
> > > > > > Yesterday we had 10 riders, which was a really good showing.  Five
> > > were
> > > > > > local to SD, the rest had to drive a couple hours to get there.  The
> > > > > route
> > > > > > was a combination of suburban roads, country back-roads, graded dirt
> > > > > roads,
> > > > > > sections of single track, rutted and eroded hike-a-bike, seven mile
> > > > > > uninterrupted downhills @ 30 mph, and rural country stores/used car
> > > lots.
>
> > > > > > Pix to prove we were there:
> > >http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/
>
> > > > > > Huge THANKS to Dustin for planning the route and hosting us at his
> > > house!
> > > > >  A
> > > > > > great meal of Nepalese food was waiting at the end for us!!!  Good
> > > stuff!
>
> > > > > > On Tue, Feb 8, 2011 at 3:16 PM, doug peterson 
> > > wrote:
> > > > > > > Jim:
>
> > > > > > > Same old 35 mm Marathon Supremes as before.  Got a brand new set 
> > > > > > > of
> > > > > > > 40s from Riv a while back but too lazy to change tires right now.
> > > > > > > Besides, the 35s still have tread showing!  No worries.
>
> > > > > > > I think anything made in a 40 should be tough enough.  In my case,
> > > I'm
> > > > > > > the weak link; the bike & tires can handle things I can't.
>
> > > > > > > dougP
>
> > > > > > > On Feb 8, 2:11 pm, James Warren  wrote:
> > > > > > > > What tires, Doug? I think I'm going Marathon Extreme 700x40.
> > > Under
> > > > > Silver
> > > > > > > sidepulls on Hillborne with Bullmoose! 12-36 rear cassette. I'm
> > > pretty
> > > > > > > excited. We'll see if my 1300 ft. daily climb over the past month
> > > and a
> > > > > half
> > > > > > > will be enough.
>
> > > > > > > > -Jim W.
>
> > > > > > > > -Original Message-
> > > > > > > > >From: doug peterson 
> > > > > > > > >Sent: Feb 8, 2011 2:48 PM
> > > > > > > > >To: RBW Owners Bunch 
> > > > > > > > >Subject: [RBW] Re: SoCal Riv Ride - Feb 12 in SD
>
> > > > > > > > >Pumped up the tires on the Atlantis just a couple of weeks ago
> > > so
> > > > > > > > >they're probably just right for this ride.  3 water bottles 
> > > > > > > > >plus
> > > > > > > > >groceries in the Acorn & I'll be ready to go.  Looking forward
> > > to
> > > > > > > > >seeing the paint job on the Protovelo.
>
> > > > > > > > >dougP
>
> > > > > > > > >On Feb 7, 9:46 pm, Michael_S  wrote:
> > > > > > > > >> the Ram is fairly dusty still (from all the dirt trails) but 
> > > > > > > > >> I
> > > > > will be
> > > > > > > > >> there BaE @ 1000am ( earlier no doubt).  Nice to have a bail
> > > out
> > > > > > > > >> option in case the body doesn't perform as expected too. That
> > > week
> > > > > in
> > > > > > > > >> the Yucatan didn't help my training regimen nor did the cold 
> > > > > > > > >> I
> > > > > picked
> > > > > > > > >> up down there.
> > > > > > > > >> ~Mike
>
> > > > > > > > >> On Feb 7, 9:12 pm, cyclotourist 
> > > wrote:
>
> > > > > > > > >> > Gentle-Folk of the Wheel, this is your friendly reminder to
> > > drop
> > > > > > > everything
> > > > > > > > >> > and get out for a ride this Saturday!  Should be 70 and
> > > Sunny,
> > > > > so no
> > > > > > > > >> > excuses.  There's a good bail out option if the mileage and
> > > or
> > > > > > > distance
> > > > > > > > >> > seems too much.  Yours truly might have to consider that as
> > > I
> > > > > spent
> > > > > > > the last
> > > > > > > > >> > two wee

Re: [RBW] FS: Rambouillet: TA, White Ind, Phil, Honjo.... more.

[cyclotourist]

The Chief Inspector approves.

On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 6:37 AM, stevep33  wrote:

> Rambouillet, size 56, complete bicycle minus pedals and saddle.
> $1700 (price includes the cost of professional packing and shipping in
> the continental US)
>
> I will be sad to see this bicycle go.  The orange Rambouillet paint is
> dazzling.  There are many nice components in the deal - see list
> below.  It rides terrifically.
> I'm the second owner of the frame, brakes and stem, but all other
> components were new (or NOS) in late 2009 and have 2000 miles on them.
> The tires and brake/shifter cables have a few hundred miles only.
> Saddle and pedals are NOT included.
>
> I am very pleased with the condition of this bicycle.   There are a
> scratches on the fender/rack eyelets from normal use.  I see two other
> scratches on the frame (near the right side shifter, non-drive side
> chainstay); I tried to document these scratches in the photo set.  The
> back edge of the rear fender has a scratch too that was hard to
> photograph, sorry.  There no dents or rust on the frame.
>
> Pictures
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/27988383@N06/sets/72157626028650710/
>
> TA Pro 5 Vis Cranks with 46/30 chainrings & TA dustcaps
> Phil Wood 119mm bottom bracket
> Suntour Superbe Pro front derailleur
> Silver downtube shifters
> XTR rear derailleur, med cage, low normal
> 13-30 9 speed Shimano cassette (Harris Cyclery - Century Special)
> Mavic Open Pro rims, White Industries hubs MI5 rear (135 mm) 32 hole,
> H2 front 32 hole - built by Peter White Cycles
> Challenge Parigi-Roubaix 700x27 tires (about 29mm wide)
> no-name titanium allen-head skewers
> Honjo 41mm round, smooth aluminum fenders
> Sheldon fender nuts
> Nitto Pearl stem 10cm
> Nitto Soba 44cm handlebars
> Cane Creek SCR-5 brake levers
> Fizik bar tape
> Tektro 521A brakes
> Velo Orange Grand Cru seatpost - cut several cm's from its original
> 30cm length.
> 9 speed chain (brand?)
> tubes and rim tape - yep, got those too.
>
> Payment via PayPal.
>
> You can email me at steve...@gmail.com.
>
> Thanks for looking,
>
> Steve
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>
>


-- 
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

*...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would
probably benefit more from
improving their taste than from improving their performance.* - RTMS

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Re: [RBW] Re: Another Rivendell... which one?

[Jim Phillips]

Hard to explain but we take 5 dogs and luggage including astronomy gear. I just 
prefer to have a second bike and not carry one back and forth. Perhaps just an 
excuse.

JimP

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 14, 2011, at 7:26 AM, MichaelH  wrote:

> Pardon me, but could you help me understand why the bike wouldn't fit
> on a hitch or roof rack?  Maybe all you need is a second set of wheels
> and a nice Saris hitch rack?
> 
> michael
> 
> On Feb 13, 10:41 am, JimP  wrote:
>> I have  a Sam Hillborne which I love, I ordered it with a 56 cm frame
>> and, as it turns out, I should have ordered the 54. Even so, it rides
>> like a dream. I have a farm located about 200 miles from home. It is
>> difficult to carry the bike back and forth without taking two cars so,
>> ahem... I have an excuse to buy another Rivendell. :^)
>> To be honest I really want an A. Homer Hilson but I do realize it is
>> very similar (functionally identical) to the Hillborne. That's OK as
>> the two bikes will be at different locations but I should at least
>> give thought to another type Rivendell, maybe an Atlantis, a Rodeo,
>> Ramboulet or... What do you think?
>> 
>> I am 60 yo and have really just gotten into cycling. At home I ride
>> around the city just absorbing the beauty of being outdoors in a
>> wonderful old city. I take a camera sometimes and like photographing
>> some of the beauty (including bike) around me. But, mostly I just
>> enjoy the ride. I usually ride for about 40 minutes to an hour and
>> head back home. At the Farm I have access to about 3000 acres of
>> pastures and hardwood forests with horse trails and, no trails at all.
>> I want to explore this area with my bike again, just enjoying the
>> scenery and being outside alone with nature.
>> 
>> Any thoughts?
>> 
>> best,
>> 
>> JimP
> 
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Re: [RBW] Atlantis BB question

[Jon Jandoc]

Did you check to make sure the bolt holding the cable guide under the bottom 
bracket isn't interfering?

Jon Jandoc
Los Angeles, CA
 
On Feb 13, 2011, at 8:06 PM, doug peterson wrote:

> Just puttering about with the new-to-us minilantis today & decided to
> check the BB.  Bike is used, several years old but few miles.  BB
> seems a bit "notchy" & not smooth like new.  I have a spare, new
> Shimano UN 54 in 113 mm size.  Pull the original & it's 116 mm Tange.
> Both for 68 mm shell.  Pop in the 113 and the spindle binds when the
> lock ring is tightened.  Weird.  Put the 116 back in & no binding.
> Several iterations of removing & replacing, checking both units for
> differences, trying both offside rings (aluminum) with both BBs & I'm
> baffled.
> 
> When I replaced the BB in my 03 Atlantis a couple of years ago, I
> replaced the 116 with a 110, don't recall if Tange or Shimano but it
> just went in with no problems.
> 
> As far as I know, Tange & Shimano are interchangeable.  What am I
> missing?  I guess you're never too old to learn something new.
> 
> dougP
> 
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[RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[mike]

> Technically the IRD freewheels are not user-serviceable. If anyone has hints 
> as to how to get into the innards of an IRD freewheel without destroying 
> them, I'd love to hear them.

This is not IRD specific, so I have no idea if the instructions are
any good for IRD, but here.s some info from bikeforums.net on
servicing a freewheel.

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/707342-Build-a-long-freewheel-Photo-heavy

I have a small collection of freewheels because I don't own a casette
hub wheel and want to keep my bikes running forever.  I'm currently
running IRD on two bikes.  The old FWs are the spares when I can't
find anything else.  One IRD freewheel has maybe 1000 miles on it
without problem, the other has only a few miles, also without
trouble.  I haven't tried the rebuild process yet, but will before
long.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[omnigrid]

IRD freewheels are just Shimano-compatible freewheels, man. Nothing special.
You dont need to use IRD...I wouldnt.



On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 2:18 AM, Thomas Lynn Skean <
thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net> wrote:

> Oh, and I should note that this IRD specificity is noted in the "hub
> dimensions" document on Phil Wood's site. Where, interestingly, it
> does *not* list the dimensions for the IRD-intended hubs.
>
> I should also add that I suspect that this IRD difference is actually
> a modern usage by IRD of a standard which has been around for some
> time, the "compact" freewheel. Can anyone confirm/deny/clarify?
>
> Insomniacally yours,
> Thomas Lynn Skean
>
>
> On Feb 14, 1:50 am, Thomas Lynn Skean 
> wrote:
> > Hi.
> >
> > It seems that Phil Wood has created a hub specifically to be used with
> the IRD freewheel. I think it has to do with the IRD freewheel's sprockets
> being spaced more closely than, say, the Shimano freewheel's. Or maybe there
> are other differences as well.
> >
> > In any case, there is some significant difference in something. For when
> I put the RBW-sold Shimano freewheel on my hub, it does not "coast" freely
> at all. Now, maybe there's supposed to be a break-in period. But I don't
> think that's what this is. The IRD freewheels I've used had no similar
> issues when first installed.
> >
> > Yours,
> > Thomas Lynn Skean
> >
> > On Feb 13, 2011, at 6:31 PM, omnigrid  wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > > Phil Wood IRD hub?
> >
> > > I think you maybe confused. IRD is a company or brand.
> >
> > > On Sun, Feb 13, 2011 at 5:54 PM, JoelMatthews 
> wrote:
> > > I have no experience at all with IRD.
> >
> > > On my camper bike I use a Shimano Megarange FW.  On my more sporting
> > > bike I have a Suntour Winner.
> >
> > > Picked up both from the eBay NOS store.  No problems with either.
> >
> > > On Feb 13, 4:45 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean 
> > > wrote:
> > > > Hello, all!
> >
> > > > Does anyone have any experience using the "Shimanopore" freewheel on
> a
> > > > Phil Wood "IRD" 7-speed freewheel hub? Does anyone have any
> experience
> > > > using the "Shimanopore" freewheel with a "normal" (i.e. non-"IRD") 7-
> > > > speed freewheel hub?
> >
> > > > I've had to replace three IRD 7-speed freewheels in 7 months. The
> > > > first one (13-28) lasted a couple thousand miles but then started to
> > > > fail to catch within a reasonable amount of rotation. The next one
> > > > (non-mega 13-32) didn't work at all; the small cog was broken. The
> > > > next one (non-mega 13-32) lasted only a few hundred miles before
> > > > starting to "freeze" (introducing top-of-the-stay slack) and then,
> > > > within a week or so, began to fail to catch like the first one.
> >
> > > > It had just gotten cold when the first one failed. It has just been
> > > > *really* cold when the third one failed. I don't know if that's
> > > > related.
> >
> > > > If these freewheels typically last only a couple thousand mikes, I'll
> > > > be disappointed but I'll deal. If there's an alternative freewheel
> > > > like the Shimano I'll use those. If fteewheels are just this
> > > > inconsistent and I can't find an alternative freewheel arrangement,
> > > > I'll switch to a cassette system ASAP and move on.
> >
> > > > Anybody have any insights / info / suggestions?
> >
> > > > Yours,
> > > > Thomas Lynn Skean
> >
> > > --
> > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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Re: [RBW] Re: Should I fret over crashed h'bars?

[CycloFiend]

The only issue with posting the video to the group would be if it runs more
than 90 seconds - that's the Flickr Limit.

If not, I'd suggest Vimeo or the YouTube and then sharing the link.  Neither
limit content by length.



-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes

Gallery updates now appear here - http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com

"There were messengers who named their bikes, but Chevette never would have
done that, and somehow because she did think about it like it was something
alive."

William Gibson - "Virtual Light"


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[RBW] Re: Chilly Hilly?

[Benedikt]

Here's a shout back!  That was me and I remember that conversation
about the FHR.  If I wasn't already registered with Cascade I'd join
you.  Hell, maybe I'll join you anyway.  Any note on what ferry the .
83r's are taking?

The other Brian

On Feb 14, 1:37 am, soapscum  wrote:
> Anyone else planning on engaging in the .83 FHR insanity that occurs
> on the same route/same day? They're a fun bunch o' bike lovers, and
> Riv is actually a sponsor (yay, Riv!). I'll be in tweed on my
> Hillborne; say hi. Oh, they have free beer, too.
>
> sean
>
> PS I ran into a local on a double-toptube Hillborne on the way to Alki
> last week, so here's a shout out. Nice leather on-anything-else-they'd-
> be-saddlebags-but-on-bikes-we-have-to-call-em panniers!
>
> On Feb 13, 2:32 am, Benedikt  wrote:> I just 
> received myChillyHillyPacket in the mail today and the bib
> > number has a free drink ticket for the Pyramid Brewery on the same
> > day.  Anyone else heading over there after the ride?
>
> > On Jan 23, 10:44 am, Benedikt  wrote:
>
> > > Any Seattle Riv owners plan on ridingChillyHillythis year?  Or non
> > > Seattle Riv owners?http://shop.cascade.org/content/events/chilly-hilly

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Re: [RBW] Re: Should I fret over crashed h'bars?

[Ray Shine]

Yes, I saw that limit.  I'll ponder it all. If I post elsewhere, I'll send a 
link.






From: CycloFiend 
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Mon, February 14, 2011 9:39:38 AM
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Should I fret over crashed h'bars?

The only issue with posting the video to the group would be if it runs more
than 90 seconds - that's the Flickr Limit.

If not, I'd suggest Vimeo or the YouTube and then sharing the link.  Neither
limit content by length.



-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes

Gallery updates now appear here - http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com

"There were messengers who named their bikes, but Chevette never would have
done that, and somehow because she did think about it like it was something
alive."

William Gibson - "Virtual Light"


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Re: [RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[Thomas Lynn Skean]

Hi!

Well... okay.

It's just that the Shimano freewheel I purchased from RBW doesn't work on my 
wheel, which has a hub that is nominally for an IRD freewheel.

There was plenty of room between the stay and the small cog. I didn't 
cross-thread it or anything. It screwed on (and off, thank goodness) cleanly. 
It just turned clunkily under any power. And the chain rested on the chain stay 
when coasting. It wasn't completely frozen. But obviously it wasn't functioning 
properly. And since all I did was screw it on, I don't think there's anything 
else I could have done that would make it function properly.

I guess there are many ways in which Shimano and IRD are substitutes for one 
another. Just not on my wheel.

I'm having deja vu... I once posted about my Sugino XD2 crank being 
incompatible with my 107mm Velo-Orange bottom bracket (which I measured, just 
to be sure). The several still-believed-by-me testimonials about using those 
two products together didn't change the fact that if you tightened *my* crank 
onto *my* VO BB's taper so that it was even approaching tight (and way less 
than the spec'd torque), the crank would be in contact with the bottom 
bracket's body. They were incompatible.

I've been informed by a person with direct experience (to say the least) that I 
could expect a 6-speed Suntour Winner or Winner Pro or a 7-speed Suntour Winner 
"compact" freewheel to work on my wheel. Expensive. But not unthinkable if it 
is spaced such that it indexes well. I suspect it is. I wouldn't be happy 
getting just one; I'd need a "warm backup".

But the maintenance path isn't clear to me. It seems I could maintain the 
ratchet mechanism on one to last many thousands of miles (perhaps more miles 
than I have in me... I'm riding about 100 miles/week). But wouldn't I expect to 
need to replace at least some cogs every few thousand or so? If so, I'd have to 
collect some cogs up front and make sure I can do that myself as well. I don't 
know; I don't have any long-term experiences with freewheels in general, let 
alone high-end ones.

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean

- omnigrid  wrote:
> IRD freewheels are just Shimano-compatible freewheels, man. Nothing special.
> You dont need to use IRD...I wouldnt.
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 2:18 AM, Thomas Lynn Skean <
> thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> > Oh, and I should note that this IRD specificity is noted in the "hub
> > dimensions" document on Phil Wood's site. Where, interestingly, it
> > does *not* list the dimensions for the IRD-intended hubs.
> >
> > I should also add that I suspect that this IRD difference is actually
> > a modern usage by IRD of a standard which has been around for some
> > time, the "compact" freewheel. Can anyone confirm/deny/clarify?
> >
> > Insomniacally yours,
> > Thomas Lynn Skean
> >
> >
> > On Feb 14, 1:50 am, Thomas Lynn Skean 
> > wrote:
> > > Hi.
> > >
> > > It seems that Phil Wood has created a hub specifically to be used with
> > the IRD freewheel. I think it has to do with the IRD freewheel's sprockets
> > being spaced more closely than, say, the Shimano freewheel's. Or maybe there
> > are other differences as well.
> > >
> > > In any case, there is some significant difference in something. For when
> > I put the RBW-sold Shimano freewheel on my hub, it does not "coast" freely
> > at all. Now, maybe there's supposed to be a break-in period. But I don't
> > think that's what this is. The IRD freewheels I've used had no similar
> > issues when first installed.
> > >
> > > Yours,
> > > Thomas Lynn Skean
> > >
> > > On Feb 13, 2011, at 6:31 PM, omnigrid  wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > Phil Wood IRD hub?
> > >
> > > > I think you maybe confused. IRD is a company or brand.
> > >
> > > > On Sun, Feb 13, 2011 at 5:54 PM, JoelMatthews 
> > wrote:
> > > > I have no experience at all with IRD.
> > >
> > > > On my camper bike I use a Shimano Megarange FW.  On my more sporting
> > > > bike I have a Suntour Winner.
> > >
> > > > Picked up both from the eBay NOS store.  No problems with either.
> > >
> > > > On Feb 13, 4:45 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean 
> > > > wrote:
> > > > > Hello, all!
> > >
> > > > > Does anyone have any experience using the "Shimanopore" freewheel on
> > a
> > > > > Phil Wood "IRD" 7-speed freewheel hub? Does anyone have any
> > experience
> > > > > using the "Shimanopore" freewheel with a "normal" (i.e. non-"IRD") 7-
> > > > > speed freewheel hub?
> > >
> > > > > I've had to replace three IRD 7-speed freewheels in 7 months. The
> > > > > first one (13-28) lasted a couple thousand miles but then started to
> > > > > fail to catch within a reasonable amount of rotation. The next one
> > > > > (non-mega 13-32) didn't work at all; the small cog was broken. The
> > > > > next one (non-mega 13-32) lasted only a few hundred miles before
> > > > > starting to "freeze" (introducing top-of-the-stay slack) and then,
> > > > > within a week or so, began to fail to catch like the first one.
> > >
> > > > > It had ju

[RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[JoelMatthews]

> I've been informed by a person with direct experience (to say the least) that 
> I could expect a 6-speed Suntour Winner or Winner Pro or a 7-speed Suntour 
> Winner "compact" freewheel to work on my wheel.

I second the advice if this works for you.  I have Winner Pros and am
very happy with them.

On Feb 14, 1:11 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean 
wrote:
> Hi!
>
> Well... okay.
>
> It's just that the Shimano freewheel I purchased from RBW doesn't work on my 
> wheel, which has a hub that is nominally for an IRD freewheel.
>
> There was plenty of room between the stay and the small cog. I didn't 
> cross-thread it or anything. It screwed on (and off, thank goodness) cleanly. 
> It just turned clunkily under any power. And the chain rested on the chain 
> stay when coasting. It wasn't completely frozen. But obviously it wasn't 
> functioning properly. And since all I did was screw it on, I don't think 
> there's anything else I could have done that would make it function properly.
>
> I guess there are many ways in which Shimano and IRD are substitutes for one 
> another. Just not on my wheel.
>
> I'm having deja vu... I once posted about my Sugino XD2 crank being 
> incompatible with my 107mm Velo-Orange bottom bracket (which I measured, just 
> to be sure). The several still-believed-by-me testimonials about using those 
> two products together didn't change the fact that if you tightened *my* crank 
> onto *my* VO BB's taper so that it was even approaching tight (and way less 
> than the spec'd torque), the crank would be in contact with the bottom 
> bracket's body. They were incompatible.
>
> I've been informed by a person with direct experience (to say the least) that 
> I could expect a 6-speed Suntour Winner or Winner Pro or a 7-speed Suntour 
> Winner "compact" freewheel to work on my wheel. Expensive. But not 
> unthinkable if it is spaced such that it indexes well. I suspect it is. I 
> wouldn't be happy getting just one; I'd need a "warm backup".
>
> But the maintenance path isn't clear to me. It seems I could maintain the 
> ratchet mechanism on one to last many thousands of miles (perhaps more miles 
> than I have in me... I'm riding about 100 miles/week). But wouldn't I expect 
> to need to replace at least some cogs every few thousand or so? If so, I'd 
> have to collect some cogs up front and make sure I can do that myself as 
> well. I don't know; I don't have any long-term experiences with freewheels in 
> general, let alone high-end ones.
>
> Yours,
> Thomas Lynn Skean
>
>
>
> - omnigrid  wrote:
> > IRD freewheels are just Shimano-compatible freewheels, man. Nothing special.
> > You dont need to use IRD...I wouldnt.
>
> > On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 2:18 AM, Thomas Lynn Skean <
> > thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > > Oh, and I should note that this IRD specificity is noted in the "hub
> > > dimensions" document on Phil Wood's site. Where, interestingly, it
> > > does *not* list the dimensions for the IRD-intended hubs.
>
> > > I should also add that I suspect that this IRD difference is actually
> > > a modern usage by IRD of a standard which has been around for some
> > > time, the "compact" freewheel. Can anyone confirm/deny/clarify?
>
> > > Insomniacally yours,
> > > Thomas Lynn Skean
>
> > > On Feb 14, 1:50 am, Thomas Lynn Skean 
> > > wrote:
> > > > Hi.
>
> > > > It seems that Phil Wood has created a hub specifically to be used with
> > > the IRD freewheel. I think it has to do with the IRD freewheel's sprockets
> > > being spaced more closely than, say, the Shimano freewheel's. Or maybe 
> > > there
> > > are other differences as well.
>
> > > > In any case, there is some significant difference in something. For when
> > > I put the RBW-sold Shimano freewheel on my hub, it does not "coast" freely
> > > at all. Now, maybe there's supposed to be a break-in period. But I don't
> > > think that's what this is. The IRD freewheels I've used had no similar
> > > issues when first installed.
>
> > > > Yours,
> > > > Thomas Lynn Skean
>
> > > > On Feb 13, 2011, at 6:31 PM, omnigrid  wrote:
>
> > > > > Phil Wood IRD hub?
>
> > > > > I think you maybe confused. IRD is a company or brand.
>
> > > > > On Sun, Feb 13, 2011 at 5:54 PM, JoelMatthews 
> > > wrote:
> > > > > I have no experience at all with IRD.
>
> > > > > On my camper bike I use a Shimano Megarange FW.  On my more sporting
> > > > > bike I have a Suntour Winner.
>
> > > > > Picked up both from the eBay NOS store.  No problems with either.
>
> > > > > On Feb 13, 4:45 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean 
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > > > Hello, all!
>
> > > > > > Does anyone have any experience using the "Shimanopore" freewheel on
> > > a
> > > > > > Phil Wood "IRD" 7-speed freewheel hub? Does anyone have any
> > > experience
> > > > > > using the "Shimanopore" freewheel with a "normal" (i.e. non-"IRD") 
> > > > > > 7-
> > > > > > speed freewheel hub?
>
> > > > > > I've had to replace three IRD 7-speed freewheels in 7 months. The
> > > > > > first one 

[RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[SISDDWG]

I've been using Sunrace freewheels for several years and I've had no
issues with them - none, zero. They shift fine and seem to last quite
a long time.

On Feb 14, 5:28 am, Seth Vidal  wrote:
> On Sun, Feb 13, 2011 at 11:57 PM, james  wrote:
> > fwiw I've also had one ird freewheel fail on me entirely and the one
> > i'm using right now 'freezes' when the weather gets cold.  i
> > appreciate the info on the cold and the grease, but i would like to
> > know also if there are other good freewheels that run about
> > 13-32/34... i could only find cheap ones i trusted less than the ird,
> > but now i'm not so sure...
>
> I've never used them but I wonder how the sunrace ones are?
>
> http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=31292&;...
>
> For $19 - cheap enough to try one out and find out if they are awful or good.
>
> -sv

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Re: [RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[Thomas Lynn Skean]

Well, I hate to ask... but...

1) Do you ride regularly in wet weather?
2) Do you ride regularly in cold (sub-freezing? sub-zero?) weather?
3) Do you have a Phil Wood hub nominally intended for an IRD freewheel?
4) Are you using modern Shimano 8-speed shifters (e.g. the 8-speed bar-ends 
sold by RBW) in index mode?

If all of those answers are true, then our situations are comparable. Yeah! 
I'll definitely look into the Sunrace freewheels, since if I recall correctly 
they're quite inexpensive. Otherwise, I wonder if you *would* have problems if 
they were all true.

I'll look into them anyway since they're $13 each. I'll buy one. If it works 
and lasts 2000 miles including next winter, I'd buy a two dozen more and 
replace them every 1500-1750 miles. $325 for 7-8 years of riding. That'd work. 
:)

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean

- SISDDWG  wrote:
> I've been using Sunrace freewheels for several years and I've had no
> issues with them - none, zero. They shift fine and seem to last quite
> a long time.
> 
> On Feb 14, 5:28 am, Seth Vidal  wrote:
> > On Sun, Feb 13, 2011 at 11:57 PM, james  wrote:
> > > fwiw I've also had one ird freewheel fail on me entirely and the one
> > > i'm using right now 'freezes' when the weather gets cold.  i
> > > appreciate the info on the cold and the grease, but i would like to
> > > know also if there are other good freewheels that run about
> > > 13-32/34... i could only find cheap ones i trusted less than the ird,
> > > but now i'm not so sure...
> >
> > I've never used them but I wonder how the sunrace ones are?
> >
> > http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=31292&;...
> >
> > For $19 - cheap enough to try one out and find out if they are awful or 
> > good.
> >
> > -sv
> 
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[RBW] Re: FS: Rambouillet: TA, White Ind, Phil, Honjo.... more.

[MichaelH]

Wow, very pretty bike.  If it were either a 52 or a 62, I would snap
it up, even though I already own a blue Rambouillet!  How'd you get
the fenders so shiny, I clean my once a year, but they never look like
new anymore, or were they new when you tok the pics?

Somebodies gonna get a hellofa nice ride & a good lucking one too.

michael

On Feb 14, 9:37 am, stevep33  wrote:
> Rambouillet, size 56, complete bicycle minus pedals and saddle.
> $1700 (price includes the cost of professional packing and shipping in
> the continental US)
>
> I will be sad to see this bicycle go.  The orange Rambouillet paint is
> dazzling.  There are many nice components in the deal - see list
> below.  It rides terrifically.
> I'm the second owner of the frame, brakes and stem, but all other
> components were new (or NOS) in late 2009 and have 2000 miles on them.
> The tires and brake/shifter cables have a few hundred miles only.
> Saddle and pedals are NOT included.
>
> I am very pleased with the condition of this bicycle.   There are a
> scratches on the fender/rack eyelets from normal use.  I see two other
> scratches on the frame (near the right side shifter, non-drive side
> chainstay); I tried to document these scratches in the photo set.  The
> back edge of the rear fender has a scratch too that was hard to
> photograph, sorry.  There no dents or rust on the frame.
>
> Pictureshttp://www.flickr.com/photos/27988383@N06/sets/72157626028650710/
>
> TA Pro 5 Vis Cranks with 46/30 chainrings & TA dustcaps
> Phil Wood 119mm bottom bracket
> Suntour Superbe Pro front derailleur
> Silver downtube shifters
> XTR rear derailleur, med cage, low normal
> 13-30 9 speed Shimano cassette (Harris Cyclery - Century Special)
> Mavic Open Pro rims, White Industries hubs MI5 rear (135 mm) 32 hole,
> H2 front 32 hole - built by Peter White Cycles
> Challenge Parigi-Roubaix 700x27 tires (about 29mm wide)
> no-name titanium allen-head skewers
> Honjo 41mm round, smooth aluminum fenders
> Sheldon fender nuts
> Nitto Pearl stem 10cm
> Nitto Soba 44cm handlebars
> Cane Creek SCR-5 brake levers
> Fizik bar tape
> Tektro 521A brakes
> Velo Orange Grand Cru seatpost - cut several cm's from its original
> 30cm length.
> 9 speed chain (brand?)
> tubes and rim tape - yep, got those too.
>
> Payment via PayPal.
>
> You can email me at steve...@gmail.com.
>
> Thanks for looking,
>
> Steve

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[RBW] Re: FS: Rambouillet: TA, White Ind, Phil, Honjo.... more.

[stevep33]

Thanks! The pictures were taken on Saturday, so the fenders are old
(2K miles).

A little bit of polish does the trick.
http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/simichrome-metal-polish.html

On Feb 14, 3:12 pm, MichaelH  wrote:
> Wow, very pretty bike.  If it were either a 52 or a 62, I would snap
> it up, even though I already own a blue Rambouillet!  How'd you get
> the fenders so shiny, I clean my once a year, but they never look like
> new anymore, or were they new when you tok the pics?
>
> Somebodies gonna get a hellofa nice ride & a good lucking one too.
>
> michael
>
> On Feb 14, 9:37 am, stevep33  wrote:
>
> > Rambouillet, size 56, complete bicycle minus pedals and saddle.
> > $1700 (price includes the cost of professional packing and shipping in
> > the continental US)
>
> > I will be sad to see this bicycle go.  The orange Rambouillet paint is
> > dazzling.  There are many nice components in the deal - see list
> > below.  It rides terrifically.
> > I'm the second owner of the frame, brakes and stem, but all other
> > components were new (or NOS) in late 2009 and have 2000 miles on them.
> > The tires and brake/shifter cables have a few hundred miles only.
> > Saddle and pedals are NOT included.
>
> > I am very pleased with the condition of this bicycle.   There are a
> > scratches on the fender/rack eyelets from normal use.  I see two other
> > scratches on the frame (near the right side shifter, non-drive side
> > chainstay); I tried to document these scratches in the photo set.  The
> > back edge of the rear fender has a scratch too that was hard to
> > photograph, sorry.  There no dents or rust on the frame.
>
> > Pictureshttp://www.flickr.com/photos/27988383@N06/sets/72157626028650710/
>
> > TA Pro 5 Vis Cranks with 46/30 chainrings & TA dustcaps
> > Phil Wood 119mm bottom bracket
> > Suntour Superbe Pro front derailleur
> > Silver downtube shifters
> > XTR rear derailleur, med cage, low normal
> > 13-30 9 speed Shimano cassette (Harris Cyclery - Century Special)
> > Mavic Open Pro rims, White Industries hubs MI5 rear (135 mm) 32 hole,
> > H2 front 32 hole - built by Peter White Cycles
> > Challenge Parigi-Roubaix 700x27 tires (about 29mm wide)
> > no-name titanium allen-head skewers
> > Honjo 41mm round, smooth aluminum fenders
> > Sheldon fender nuts
> > Nitto Pearl stem 10cm
> > Nitto Soba 44cm handlebars
> > Cane Creek SCR-5 brake levers
> > Fizik bar tape
> > Tektro 521A brakes
> > Velo Orange Grand Cru seatpost - cut several cm's from its original
> > 30cm length.
> > 9 speed chain (brand?)
> > tubes and rim tape - yep, got those too.
>
> > Payment via PayPal.
>
> > You can email me at steve...@gmail.com.
>
> > Thanks for looking,
>
> > Steve
>
>

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Re: [RBW] FS: Rambouillet: TA, White Ind, Phil, Honjo.... more.

[Dan Abelson]

On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 8:37 AM, stevep33  wrote:

> Rambouillet, size 56, complete bicycle minus pedals and saddle.
> $1700 (price includes the cost of professional packing and shipping in
> the continental US)
>
> I will be sad to see this bicycle go.  The orange Rambouillet paint is
> dazzling.  There are many nice components in the deal - see list
> below.  It rides terrifically.
>
>
Great looking bike Steve.  A plug for Steve, last year a bought a 55cm AHH
from him.  Steve was easy to deal with and the bike was as described and
well packed.  I would be tempted by the Rambouillet if it weren't too big
for me.

Dan Abelson
St. Paul, MN

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[RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[Minh]

Here's an email from a few months ago, i believe it's a slight spacing
optimization on the IRD phil wood hubs that make them special, but
that you can use regular free-wheels as well.



-
The whole IRD/Riv FW thing confuses everyone I've talked to about it.
The guys at PW were kind enough to explain the IRD specific hub
design
to me last year when I was deciding on hubs for another set of
wheels.
"   Garth,
 OK I spoke with our engineer for a little more feedback
on this IRD thing because
 it is basically a little confusing to me a well, here's
the scoop. These IRD hubs were
 a concept dreamed up by Rivendell which took our
standard
freewheel hubs and
 moved the hub shell over to the drive side by about 2mm
for the IRD freewheels
 which is supposed to help off set the wheel dishing
(Rivendell likes to build wheels
 with a little dish as possible) as well as the chain
line
when an IRD freewheel is used.
 When Rivendell commissioned these IRD hubs they asked
that they be an Rivy exclusive
 and we agreed to this for one year. After the year had
expired (this year) our engineer and
 General Manager thought it would be a good idea to offer
the hubs as part of our product line
 for riders who may want to have minimal dishing when
using an IRD.
 So long story short the IRD freewheels can in deed be
used with either one of our freewheel
 hubs it just depends on how concerned you are about
eliminating some of the wheel dish.
  Now you know as much as I do about the reasoning behind
the IRD option and I
  hope it clears things up a little.
   Thank You,
   Mark
 Phil Wood & Co. "
In the end, I decided not to get the "IRD" FW hubs from PW, just the
same regular touring hubs I've been using.
You can still use any brand of FW with the IRD/Riv hub, it will just
be closer to the chainstay how close depends on your frame.
You can use an IRD FW with any english threaded FW hub.
BTW, I've been hearing more reports of IRD failures, despite the
later
supposedly improved models. There's supposed to be a new batch this
summer. Yes . those that got a good one say "what's the problem,
mine's been fine ?" For those that didn't  it rots. I've never
heard of any FW having so many problems as the IRD ones. If you need
a
13-28 and can live with the awful black Shimano 28 cog, their FW's
are
still good.

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis BB question

[doug peterson]

Mystery solved - it's the ID of the lock ring.

The original Tange BBs came with an aluminum ring that measures
nominally 23 mm ID where it contacts the cartridge.  Shimano uses a
plastic ring measuring 24.5 mm at the same point.  Attempting to use
the Tange lockring on a Shimano cartridge places an end load on the
cartridge as the ring is tightened.

When I replaced the original, Riv installed BB on my Atlantis (after
5-6 years and 20,000 miles ??), I recall being wary of the plastic
lock ring but figuring I'd use what came with the Shimano BB.  I hung
onto the original aluminum one "just in case".  Yesterday I was
attempting to re-use the Tange aluminum lockring with the new Shimano
cartridge, hence the binding.

So Shimano & Tange are interchangeable, but can't be mixed & matched.
If the plastic lockring gives trouble I'll just file out the aluminum
lockring to give clearance.

dougP

On Feb 14, 7:25 am, Jon Jandoc  wrote:
> Did you check to make sure the bolt holding the cable guide under the bottom 
> bracket isn't interfering?
>
> Jon Jandoc
> Los Angeles, CA
>
> On Feb 13, 2011, at 8:06 PM, doug peterson wrote:
>
>
>
> > Just puttering about with the new-to-us minilantis today & decided to
> > check the BB.  Bike is used, several years old but few miles.  BB
> > seems a bit "notchy" & not smooth like new.  I have a spare, new
> > Shimano UN 54 in 113 mm size.  Pull the original & it's 116 mm Tange.
> > Both for 68 mm shell.  Pop in the 113 and the spindle binds when the
> > lock ring is tightened.  Weird.  Put the 116 back in & no binding.
> > Several iterations of removing & replacing, checking both units for
> > differences, trying both offside rings (aluminum) with both BBs & I'm
> > baffled.
>
> > When I replaced the BB in my 03 Atlantis a couple of years ago, I
> > replaced the 116 with a 110, don't recall if Tange or Shimano but it
> > just went in with no problems.
>
> > As far as I know, Tange & Shimano are interchangeable.  What am I
> > missing?  I guess you're never too old to learn something new.
>
> > dougP
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[Thomas Lynn Skean]

Hi, all.

I hope this isn't a duplicate... I thought I already responded but I can't find 
evidence of it in my e-mail... anyway...

Thanks so much for digging up that post.

I am *definitely* going to have to try the Shimano again. Too many people think 
it should work. I know it didn't work for me. But I wonder if there was some 
other, transient issue... 

debris? (I looked for it but saw none)... 

wheel not seated in drop-out properly? (I looked for this and did not see it... 
and, interestingly, though it didn't "turn" well in either direction, it did 
shift perfectly!)... 

some interference between derailer and freewheel? (didn't notice it, but didn't 
look for it explicitly)... 

worst would be interference between small cog and chainstay (definitely looked 
for it and it was not there... but if its presence (or its absence when I 
looked) resulted from the wheel not being seated properly it might've shifted 
around during use... oh well, if that was the problem, there'll be evidence on 
the chainstay... crap!)

Frankly, there are things do poorly with my bike: servicing loose-ball 
bearings, mounting tight tires come to mind. But taking out and re-mounting the 
rear wheel is definitely one of the things I generally do well, simply from 
lots of experience. Replacing broken wheels (never damaged during replacement), 
replacing wheels to switch to/fro studded tires in winter... I've also repaired 
the odd flat (which I have sometimes caused by trying to remove a way-too-tight 
studded tire from a poorly-sized or very loosely-tensioned rim). I'm pretty 
good with rear wheel mounting. So I'll be particularly annoyed with myself if 
it turns out I botched it on *this particular* occasion.

Obviously my overall problem (one many of us on the list share, I believe) is 
not having 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, 52 weeks a year to mess around with 
and ride my bicycle. Then I would be much more likely to take the time 
necessary to notice all the little things before they become big things. And 
still have plenty of time to ride as much as I'm physically able. Bicycle 
nirvana! Cyclo-librium! True existence!

If the Shimano freewheel can be made to work, I won't let an 
ugly-for-no-good-reason big cog stop me. Though if the Shimano actually works 
well, I'll definitely look at the Sunrace. I don't want a 10-tooth jump like 
the Shimano 14-34 Megarange (does that even work?). And the 7-speed Sunrace I 
can get easily has the same gearing  (13-15-17-19-21-24-28) as the other 
Shimano 7-speed I can get easily... for a third less money.

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean

- Minh  wrote:
> Here's an email from a few months ago, i believe it's a slight spacing
> optimization on the IRD phil wood hubs that make them special, but
> that you can use regular free-wheels as well.
> 
> 
> 
> -
> The whole IRD/Riv FW thing confuses everyone I've talked to about it.
> The guys at PW were kind enough to explain the IRD specific hub
> design
> to me last year when I was deciding on hubs for another set of
> wheels.
> "   Garth,
>  OK I spoke with our engineer for a little more feedback
> on this IRD thing because
>  it is basically a little confusing to me a well, here's
> the scoop. These IRD hubs were
>  a concept dreamed up by Rivendell which took our
> standard
> freewheel hubs and
>  moved the hub shell over to the drive side by about 2mm
> for the IRD freewheels
>  which is supposed to help off set the wheel dishing
> (Rivendell likes to build wheels
>  with a little dish as possible) as well as the chain
> line
> when an IRD freewheel is used.
>  When Rivendell commissioned these IRD hubs they asked
> that they be an Rivy exclusive
>  and we agreed to this for one year. After the year had
> expired (this year) our engineer and
>  General Manager thought it would be a good idea to offer
> the hubs as part of our product line
>  for riders who may want to have minimal dishing when
> using an IRD.
>  So long story short the IRD freewheels can in deed be
> used with either one of our freewheel
>  hubs it just depends on how concerned you are about
> eliminating some of the wheel dish.
>   Now you know as much as I do about the reasoning behind
> the IRD option and I
>   hope it clears things up a little.
>Thank You,
>Mark
>  Phil Wood & Co. "
> In the end, I decided not to get the "IRD" FW hubs from PW, just the
> same regular touring hubs I've been using.
> You can still use any brand of FW with the IRD/Riv hub, it will just
> be closer to the chainstay how close depends on your frame.
> You can use an IRD FW with any english threaded FW hub.
> BTW, I've been hearing more reports of IRD failures, despite the
> later
> supposedly improved models. There's supposed to be a new 

[RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[JoelMatthews]

With all the vintage hubs in my collection, I have never bothered
looking at Riv's hubs page.

I still do not understand the desire to buy a new 135 freewheel hub.
PW along with many other companies make perfectly fine casette hubs in
that size.

The PW freewheel products page was not loading for me just now, but it
appears from the main hub page that PW does make IRD specific
freewheels from 120 up.  I can understand a rider not wanting to
spread the chainstays going with a PW and freewheel in that
situation.  However, if the IRD are not reliable, spreading chain
stays is no big deal and would be my preference, unless the frame is a
vintage Herse or something (and in that case, you may as well pop for
a MaxiCar).

On Feb 14, 2:50 pm, Minh  wrote:
> Here's an email from a few months ago, i believe it's a slight spacing
> optimization on the IRD phil wood hubs that make them special, but
> that you can use regular free-wheels as well.
>
> -
> The whole IRD/Riv FW thing confuses everyone I've talked to about it.
> The guys at PW were kind enough to explain the IRD specific hub
> design
> to me last year when I was deciding on hubs for another set of
> wheels.
> "   Garth,
>              OK I spoke with our engineer for a little more feedback
> on this IRD thing because
>              it is basically a little confusing to me a well, here's
> the scoop. These IRD hubs were
>              a concept dreamed up by Rivendell which took our
> standard
> freewheel hubs and
>              moved the hub shell over to the drive side by about 2mm
> for the IRD freewheels
>              which is supposed to help off set the wheel dishing
> (Rivendell likes to build wheels
>              with a little dish as possible) as well as the chain
> line
> when an IRD freewheel is used.
>              When Rivendell commissioned these IRD hubs they asked
> that they be an Rivy exclusive
>              and we agreed to this for one year. After the year had
> expired (this year) our engineer and
>              General Manager thought it would be a good idea to offer
> the hubs as part of our product line
>              for riders who may want to have minimal dishing when
> using an IRD.
>              So long story short the IRD freewheels can in deed be
> used with either one of our freewheel
>              hubs it just depends on how concerned you are about
> eliminating some of the wheel dish.
>               Now you know as much as I do about the reasoning behind
> the IRD option and I
>               hope it clears things up a little.
>                Thank You,
>                        Mark
>          Phil Wood & Co. "
> In the end, I decided not to get the "IRD" FW hubs from PW, just the
> same regular touring hubs I've been using.
> You can still use any brand of FW with the IRD/Riv hub, it will just
> be closer to the chainstay how close depends on your frame.
> You can use an IRD FW with any english threaded FW hub.
> BTW, I've been hearing more reports of IRD failures, despite the
> later
> supposedly improved models. There's supposed to be a new batch this
> summer. Yes . those that got a good one say "what's the problem,
> mine's been fine ?" For those that didn't  it rots. I've never
> heard of any FW having so many problems as the IRD ones. If you need
> a
> 13-28 and can live with the awful black Shimano 28 cog, their FW's
> are
> still good.

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[RBW] Finally, matching hubs

[PATRICK MOORE]

After almost 12 years, a front hub that matches the rear, thanks to
John Cully. Cross posted to ensure maximum drool. I just picked up
this new front wheel and installed it for its inaugural ride.

https://picasaweb.google.com/BERTIN753/BIKESMISCELLANEA#5573667399477615730
et sequentia.

I still think that the wholly unadorned fixed gear is the most
beautiful of bikes. I mar this one to the extent needed to make it a
bit more practical -- cage and bottle, rear bag (tho' might swap this
out for a smaller Jandd -- one has pockets, after all) but it was
deliberately built with no braze ons except a little chain catcher.
Wonderful. 17 3/4 lb without bottle or bag.

Since the Avocet 35 finally died after 10 years, I am seriously
thinking that I ought not to replace it -- one benefit, beside
aesthetics, is that perhaps I will be less obsessive with time and
distance and speed. We'll see.

Thanks again, Grant!

-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[Allan in Portland]

> I still do not understand the desire to buy a new 135 freewheel hub.
> PW along with many other companies make perfectly fine casette hubs in
> that size.

IIRC, there is a few hundred dollars difference in cost.

-Allan

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[RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[JoelMatthews]

> IIRC, there is a few hundred dollars difference in cost.

But then one has to wonder whether it would be better getting a
Shimano Cassette for less than the PW FW - or perhaps a White
Industries H3 Casette hub priced a little more than the PW FW hub but
a lot less than the PW Cassette.

On Feb 14, 4:07 pm, Allan in Portland  wrote:
> > I still do not understand the desire to buy a new 135 freewheel hub.
> > PW along with many other companies make perfectly fine casette hubs in
> > that size.
>
> IIRC, there is a few hundred dollars difference in cost.
>
> -Allan

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[RBW] Sweater wool sheep breed revealed

[grant]

It's the Cheviot, a hardy breed that lives in the hilly border area
btw England and Scotland...originally, at least, and lots are still
there.
There is a Cheviot Society,and even an American Cheviot Sheep Society

http://www.cheviotsheep.org/index.html

You can find all kinds of Cheviot images on the web. Rest assured ours
come from the best-looking, most rugged ones---not the "show sheep"
shown shorn just so. I stipulate that.

Sweater news, not intending to stir a pot:

Vest: the one shown was izzactly like the first one (except for the
pocket), but in any case we're shrinking the shoulders a bit and
opening up the armhole. Twill be perf!

Rollnecker: Might not do it, although if the sample we have here were
a large or xl, we'd definitely not do it, because I'd have mine... I
like the style a lot, but my radar says it won't be popular.

Army type: We're going with this, as is.

Cardigan: Adding a rib to the lower hem. Basically, same as before.
Close enough!

G

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[RBW] Re: Sweater wool sheep breed revealed

[JoelMatthews]

Too cool Grant!  Thank you for the follow up.  I've seen Chevoit in
real life.  Very handsome critters.

Can't wait to add to my collection of cardigans.

On Feb 14, 4:56 pm, grant  wrote:
> It's the Cheviot, a hardy breed that lives in the hilly border area
> btw England and Scotland...originally, at least, and lots are still
> there.
> There is a Cheviot Society,and even an American Cheviot Sheep Society
>
> http://www.cheviotsheep.org/index.html
>
> You can find all kinds of Cheviot images on the web. Rest assured ours
> come from the best-looking, most rugged ones---not the "show sheep"
> shown shorn just so. I stipulate that.
>
> Sweater news, not intending to stir a pot:
>
> Vest: the one shown was izzactly like the first one (except for the
> pocket), but in any case we're shrinking the shoulders a bit and
> opening up the armhole. Twill be perf!
>
> Rollnecker: Might not do it, although if the sample we have here were
> a large or xl, we'd definitely not do it, because I'd have mine... I
> like the style a lot, but my radar says it won't be popular.
>
> Army type: We're going with this, as is.
>
> Cardigan: Adding a rib to the lower hem. Basically, same as before.
> Close enough!
>
> G

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Re: [RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[Thomas Lynn Skean]

Hi!

- JoelMatthews  wrote:
> 
> I still do not understand the desire to buy a new 135 freewheel hub.
> PW along with many other companies make perfectly fine casette hubs in
> that size.

Wheel strength.

Generally, the 3-people-who-actually-know-these-things that I contacted all 
implied or stated outright that a wheel built around a Phil Wood IRD-style FW 
hub would be stronger than one built with a cassette hub, all else equal. They 
didn't say "you need this wheel"... they didn't say "only it will work"... they 
basically said it would be non-trivially stronger. I even now have zero reason 
to doubt those folks or that assertion in particular. My own history of 
consistently ruining wheels led me to think I wanted all the non-trivial 
strength enhancement I could tolerate (didn't want a 48-spoke wheel, didn't 
want a black rim). In the face of that history, those opinions, *and* the fact 
that choosing a cassette wheel that would be comparably strong meant an extra 
$200 right from the start... why *wouldn't* I desire a new 135 freewheel hub? 
The money itself wasn't a problem. But compromising the wheel's strength *and* 
paying real money to do it still seems silly.

In hindsight, my desire (no matter how I came to have it) may have led me to a 
poor choice. Freewheel issues certainly threaten my use of my current wheel as 
anything other than a backup. It won't take too many more instances of a 
surprise failure-to-catch as I enter traffic to make me *not* use that wheel 
regularly. That'd be a shame... I've grown enamored of the elegance of a 
low-dish wheel, of the isolation of the most important bearings on the bike 
from the least important bearings on the bike, and of the notional simplicity 
of servicing of a Phil Wood freewheel hub (haven't actually had to service it 
yet). As well as the proven strength of the wheel, be it needed or not.

In spite of that appeal, I remain open to the idea that all of my old wheel 
problems would have been basically solved with a 36-hole Phil Wood/Synergy O/C 
cassette wheel (I have and sometimes use two XT/Synergy O/C wheels, having had 
only minor and probably-solved issues) or a 40-hole Phil Wood/Dyad cassette 
wheel. In use I prefer the Dyad rim; it's easier to mount the tires I use. And 
one person-who-knows said the 40-spoke wheel would be stronger, despite the 
additional dish (there's no O/C Dyad and there's no 40-hole O/C Synergy).

In any case, I haven't given up on using the freewheel-based wheel yet. But 
I'll decide over the next few months, since I would like to pick a sustainable 
system and have it in place before I seriously pursue my next Rivendell, which 
will probably be next year. At this point, a second 60cm double-top-tube 
Hillborne is the front-runner. That bike just plain fits. 62cm Hunqapillar and 
60cm Bombadil are still in the running, though.

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean

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Re: [RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[PATRICK MOORE]

On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 4:46 PM, Thomas Lynn Skean
 wrote:

>
> Generally, the 3-people-who-actually-know-these-things that I contacted all 
> implied or stated outright that a wheel built around a Phil Wood IRD-style FW 
> hub would be stronger than one built with a cassette hub, all else equal.

Can you (or someone else) explain why this is so? I thought the whole
point of the cassette hub design was greater strength because the axle
is supported by bearings further out to the right. So what makes this
fw hub stronger even than the Phil fw hub? I must admit that I am
skeptical of this 3-person claim, but I am open to enlightenment.
(Om )

As to Phil track hubs, I learned today that the bearings on my 2Xf
fixed Phil are fine after almost 11K miles: the roughness was the
not-fully-tightened spacer.

Patrick "no dish, no worries" Moore

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Re: [RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[PATRICK MOORE]

On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 4:59 PM, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
> So what makes this
> fw hub stronger even than the Phil fw hub?

I meant, "stronger than the Phil cassette hub," of course.

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[RBW] Back on the market: Med Addidas SS jersey, $40 shipped

[PATRICK MOORE]

https://picasaweb.google.com/BERTIN753/ForSale#5532022105094813442

50% wool, nice but a bit too tight for me especially if I want to wear
a thin layer underneath. Will probably fit someone best who is about
5'8" or 9" and 160 or so (I am a long-torso'd 5'10" and 170).

-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Re: Back on the market: Med Addidas SS jersey, $40 shipped

[PATRICK MOORE]

Just measured again: length from bottom of collar (ie seam) to tail is
more like 27". Width is 19" pit-to-pit.

On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 5:09 PM, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
> https://picasaweb.google.com/BERTIN753/ForSale#5532022105094813442
>
> 50% wool, nice but a bit too tight for me especially if I want to wear
> a thin layer underneath. Will probably fit someone best who is about
> 5'8" or 9" and 160 or so (I am a long-torso'd 5'10" and 170).
>
> --
> Patrick Moore
> Albuquerque, NM
> For professional resumes, contact
> Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com
>



-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Re: Another Rivendell... which one?

[MichaelH]

I have a 10.5 lb mini dachsund.  I'm guessing your dogs are a tad
larger.
michael

On Feb 14, 11:41 am, Jim Phillips  wrote:
> Hard to explain but we take 5 dogs and luggage including astronomy gear. I 
> just prefer to have a second bike and not carry one back and forth. Perhaps 
> just an excuse.
>
> JimP
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 14, 2011, at 7:26 AM, MichaelH  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Pardon me, but could you help me understand why the bike wouldn't fit
> > on a hitch or roof rack?  Maybe all you need is a second set of wheels
> > and a nice Saris hitch rack?
>
> > michael
>
> > On Feb 13, 10:41 am, JimP  wrote:
> >> I have  a Sam Hillborne which I love, I ordered it with a 56 cm frame
> >> and, as it turns out, I should have ordered the 54. Even so, it rides
> >> like a dream. I have a farm located about 200 miles from home. It is
> >> difficult to carry the bike back and forth without taking two cars so,
> >> ahem... I have an excuse to buy another Rivendell. :^)
> >> To be honest I really want an A. Homer Hilson but I do realize it is
> >> very similar (functionally identical) to the Hillborne. That's OK as
> >> the two bikes will be at different locations but I should at least
> >> give thought to another type Rivendell, maybe an Atlantis, a Rodeo,
> >> Ramboulet or... What do you think?
>
> >> I am 60 yo and have really just gotten into cycling. At home I ride
> >> around the city just absorbing the beauty of being outdoors in a
> >> wonderful old city. I take a camera sometimes and like photographing
> >> some of the beauty (including bike) around me. But, mostly I just
> >> enjoy the ride. I usually ride for about 40 minutes to an hour and
> >> head back home. At the Farm I have access to about 3000 acres of
> >> pastures and hardwood forests with horse trails and, no trails at all.
> >> I want to explore this area with my bike again, just enjoying the
> >> scenery and being outside alone with nature.
>
> >> Any thoughts?
>
> >> best,
>
> >> JimP
>
> > --
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Re: [RBW] Re: Another Rivendell... which one?

[PATRICK MOORE]

I'd guess that a second Sam Hill might be a good choice for a "second
location" bike that will be used on pavement and dirt. I had one, and
while I didn't like the handling -- the front seemed to wander, though
this may have been due to the fact that I had the bar a good 4 or 5
inches above those on my other Rivs -- many others like it very much.
Cheap (ish, for a Riv), well designed (all the braze ons you need
except for a front low rider), takes 45s or so without fenders.

Why not get a 54 and ship the 56 to the farm?

I think that, if someone said to me, "Here, Patrick, take this SH for
free," I'd set it up with lower bars, shorter stem and 40s or so. As
it is, I have all the road, off road and load carrying bikes I need.

Tho' it would be nice to have a Roadeo  AND a 21 lb ss 29er 
AND a British racing tricycle  AND 

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[RBW] Re: Sweater wool sheep breed revealed

[William]

Will the 650B cantilever braked Roadeo model be called the
"Cheviot" ?

On Feb 14, 3:02 pm, JoelMatthews  wrote:
> Too cool Grant!  Thank you for the follow up.  I've seen Chevoit in
> real life.  Very handsome critters.
>
> Can't wait to add to my collection of cardigans.
>
> On Feb 14, 4:56 pm, grant  wrote:
>
> > It's the Cheviot, a hardy breed that lives in the hilly border area
> > btw England and Scotland...originally, at least, and lots are still
> > there.
> > There is a Cheviot Society,and even an American Cheviot Sheep Society
>
> >http://www.cheviotsheep.org/index.html
>
> > You can find all kinds of Cheviot images on the web. Rest assured ours
> > come from the best-looking, most rugged ones---not the "show sheep"
> > shown shorn just so. I stipulate that.
>
> > Sweater news, not intending to stir a pot:
>
> > Vest: the one shown was izzactly like the first one (except for the
> > pocket), but in any case we're shrinking the shoulders a bit and
> > opening up the armhole. Twill be perf!
>
> > Rollnecker: Might not do it, although if the sample we have here were
> > a large or xl, we'd definitely not do it, because I'd have mine... I
> > like the style a lot, but my radar says it won't be popular.
>
> > Army type: We're going with this, as is.
>
> > Cardigan: Adding a rib to the lower hem. Basically, same as before.
> > Close enough!
>
> > G
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Another Rivendell... which one?

[Jon Grant]

Farm 200 miles away, already enough stuff to carry on frequent trips? No
excuses -- I¹d say that makes a good argument for another bike at the farm.
If the budget allowed another Rivendell, I¹d be likely to choose a
Hunqapillar or a Bombadil, considering the more rural nature of the
location. Regardless of make or model, I¹d be less inclined to get something
too similar to what I already have, unless the two places had nearly
identical terrain and riding conditions.

--
Jon ³Papa² Grant
Illustration + Information Graphics
Austin, Texas
jgr...@papagrant.com
512-284-9599

Portfolio at 



From: JimP 
Reply-To: 
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2011 11:41:22 -0500
To: "rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com" 
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Another Rivendell... which one?

Hard to explain but we take 5 dogs and luggage including astronomy gear. I
just prefer to have a second bike and not carry one back and forth. Perhaps
just an excuse.

JimP

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[RBW] Interesting marketing strategy

[William]

I saw this listing on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/1983-TREK-520-LUGGED-FRAME-AND-FORK-RIVENDELL-GEOMETRY-/250770864553?pt=Road_Bikes&hash=item3a631bb9a9

Somebody selling a 1983 Trek 520.  He puts Rivendell in the title,
presumably to attract potential buyers.  That in itself is
interesting, that a tiny sliver company like Riv is so influential
that it's used a hook to sell a Trek (or a Raleigh, or a Specialized,
as we've all seen repeatedly).  This seller goes one step further with
the text:

DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY ON A RIVENDELL FRAME. BUILD THIS LOW BB FRAME
TO YOUR OWN SPECS !

If you tried to attract a Riv-fancier with the title, is it smart to
then bash Riv calling it a waste?  Clearly the seller meant something
more along the lines of "my frame is just as good as a Rivendell, only
cheaper and older", but I'm not sure he said what he meant.  Does it
amuse you how people sell their non-Rivendell stuff as Rivendell-ish?
Is there another bicycle business in the WORLD that is both smaller
and yet more influential than Rivendell?

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[RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[JoelMatthews]

> In spite of that appeal, I remain open to the idea that all of my old wheel 
> problems would have been basically solved with a 36-hole Phil Wood/Synergy 
> O/C cassette wheel (I have and sometimes use two XT/Synergy O/C wheels, 
> having had only minor and probably-solved issues) or a 40-hole Phil Wood/Dyad 
> cassette wheel. In use I prefer the Dyad rim; it's easier to mount the tires 
> I use. And one person-who-knows said the 40-spoke wheel would be stronger, 
> despite the additional dish (there's no O/C Dyad and there's no 40-hole O/C 
> Synergy).

Kind of hard to pick between those rims!

I have 2 sets of 700 wheels.  One set are 40h Dyads built around
MaxiCar hubs.  The other are 36h Synergy (o/c rear) built around some
vintage Campagnolo hubs Peter Weigle modified.  (If this weather holds
I will have a link to some pictures of those wheels and the bike they
roll this weekend.)  Obviously both hubs are freewheel.

On Feb 14, 5:46 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean 
wrote:
> Hi!
>
> - JoelMatthews  wrote:
>
> > I still do not understand the desire to buy a new 135 freewheel hub.
> > PW along with many other companies make perfectly fine casette hubs in
> > that size.
>
> Wheel strength.
>
> Generally, the 3-people-who-actually-know-these-things that I contacted all 
> implied or stated outright that a wheel built around a Phil Wood IRD-style FW 
> hub would be stronger than one built with a cassette hub, all else equal. 
> They didn't say "you need this wheel"... they didn't say "only it will 
> work"... they basically said it would be non-trivially stronger. I even now 
> have zero reason to doubt those folks or that assertion in particular. My own 
> history of consistently ruining wheels led me to think I wanted all the 
> non-trivial strength enhancement I could tolerate (didn't want a 48-spoke 
> wheel, didn't want a black rim). In the face of that history, those opinions, 
> *and* the fact that choosing a cassette wheel that would be comparably strong 
> meant an extra $200 right from the start... why *wouldn't* I desire a new 135 
> freewheel hub? The money itself wasn't a problem. But compromising the 
> wheel's strength *and* paying real money to do it still seems silly.
>
> In hindsight, my desire (no matter how I came to have it) may have led me to 
> a poor choice. Freewheel issues certainly threaten my use of my current wheel 
> as anything other than a backup. It won't take too many more instances of a 
> surprise failure-to-catch as I enter traffic to make me *not* use that wheel 
> regularly. That'd be a shame... I've grown enamored of the elegance of a 
> low-dish wheel, of the isolation of the most important bearings on the bike 
> from the least important bearings on the bike, and of the notional simplicity 
> of servicing of a Phil Wood freewheel hub (haven't actually had to service it 
> yet). As well as the proven strength of the wheel, be it needed or not.
>
> In spite of that appeal, I remain open to the idea that all of my old wheel 
> problems would have been basically solved with a 36-hole Phil Wood/Synergy 
> O/C cassette wheel (I have and sometimes use two XT/Synergy O/C wheels, 
> having had only minor and probably-solved issues) or a 40-hole Phil Wood/Dyad 
> cassette wheel. In use I prefer the Dyad rim; it's easier to mount the tires 
> I use. And one person-who-knows said the 40-spoke wheel would be stronger, 
> despite the additional dish (there's no O/C Dyad and there's no 40-hole O/C 
> Synergy).
>
> In any case, I haven't given up on using the freewheel-based wheel yet. But 
> I'll decide over the next few months, since I would like to pick a 
> sustainable system and have it in place before I seriously pursue my next 
> Rivendell, which will probably be next year. At this point, a second 60cm 
> double-top-tube Hillborne is the front-runner. That bike just plain fits. 
> 62cm Hunqapillar and 60cm Bombadil are still in the running, though.
>
> Yours,
> Thomas Lynn Skean

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[RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[JoelMatthews]

> Can you (or someone else) explain why this is so? I thought the whole
> point of the cassette hub design was greater strength because the axle
> is supported by bearings further out to the right. So what makes this
> fw hub stronger even than the Phil fw hub?

That is what I have heard as well.  Obviously I have no problem with
FW hubs - I've never even owned a set of cassette hubs - but always
thought maybe I was giving up some strength to the people riding on
those new fangled thangs.

On Feb 14, 5:59 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
> On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 4:46 PM, Thomas Lynn Skean
>
>  wrote:
>
> > Generally, the 3-people-who-actually-know-these-things that I contacted all 
> > implied or stated outright that a wheel built around a Phil Wood IRD-style 
> > FW hub would be stronger than one built with a cassette hub, all else equal.
>
> Can you (or someone else) explain why this is so? I thought the whole
> point of the cassette hub design was greater strength because the axle
> is supported by bearings further out to the right. So what makes this
> fw hub stronger even than the Phil fw hub? I must admit that I am
> skeptical of this 3-person claim, but I am open to enlightenment.
> (Om )
>
> As to Phil track hubs, I learned today that the bearings on my 2Xf
> fixed Phil are fine after almost 11K miles: the roughness was the
> not-fully-tightened spacer.
>
> Patrick "no dish, no worries" Moore

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[RBW] Re: Sweater wool sheep breed revealed

[JoelMatthews]

Well, it has a nice ring to it.  Not sure if they are the fastest
sheep in the world.  At least not when their wool is fully grown out
as the one in Grant's link.

On Feb 14, 6:54 pm, William  wrote:
> Will the 650B cantilever braked Roadeo model be called the
> "Cheviot" ?
>
> On Feb 14, 3:02 pm, JoelMatthews  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Too cool Grant!  Thank you for the follow up.  I've seen Chevoit in
> > real life.  Very handsome critters.
>
> > Can't wait to add to my collection of cardigans.
>
> > On Feb 14, 4:56 pm, grant  wrote:
>
> > > It's the Cheviot, a hardy breed that lives in the hilly border area
> > > btw England and Scotland...originally, at least, and lots are still
> > > there.
> > > There is a Cheviot Society,and even an American Cheviot Sheep Society
>
> > >http://www.cheviotsheep.org/index.html
>
> > > You can find all kinds of Cheviot images on the web. Rest assured ours
> > > come from the best-looking, most rugged ones---not the "show sheep"
> > > shown shorn just so. I stipulate that.
>
> > > Sweater news, not intending to stir a pot:
>
> > > Vest: the one shown was izzactly like the first one (except for the
> > > pocket), but in any case we're shrinking the shoulders a bit and
> > > opening up the armhole. Twill be perf!
>
> > > Rollnecker: Might not do it, although if the sample we have here were
> > > a large or xl, we'd definitely not do it, because I'd have mine... I
> > > like the style a lot, but my radar says it won't be popular.
>
> > > Army type: We're going with this, as is.
>
> > > Cardigan: Adding a rib to the lower hem. Basically, same as before.
> > > Close enough!
>
> > > G

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[RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[William]

All other things being equal, a cassette hub offers a far stronger
axle, because the axle is supported in more places and closer to the
frame dropouts.  Bent or broken axles are essentially non-existent on
even the cheapest cassette hubs.  Among freewheel hubs, I know of few
that are stronger than Phil.  The number of people in the world that
can bend or break the axle on a Phil FW hub is small.

All other things being equal a dishless wheel offers more equal spoke
tension left vs right.  That's one of the reasons 130 and 135
developed and why 145 and 160 are on tandems (and there are other
reasons).

Cassette hub --> less likely to break an axle
Dishless wheel --> less likely to break a spoke

On Feb 14, 5:57 pm, JoelMatthews  wrote:
> > Can you (or someone else) explain why this is so? I thought the whole
> > point of the cassette hub design was greater strength because the axle
> > is supported by bearings further out to the right. So what makes this
> > fw hub stronger even than the Phil fw hub?
>
> That is what I have heard as well.  Obviously I have no problem with
> FW hubs - I've never even owned a set of cassette hubs - but always
> thought maybe I was giving up some strength to the people riding on
> those new fangled thangs.
>
> On Feb 14, 5:59 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
>
> > On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 4:46 PM, Thomas Lynn Skean
>
> >  wrote:
>
> > > Generally, the 3-people-who-actually-know-these-things that I contacted 
> > > all implied or stated outright that a wheel built around a Phil Wood 
> > > IRD-style FW hub would be stronger than one built with a cassette hub, 
> > > all else equal.
>
> > Can you (or someone else) explain why this is so? I thought the whole
> > point of the cassette hub design was greater strength because the axle
> > is supported by bearings further out to the right. So what makes this
> > fw hub stronger even than the Phil fw hub? I must admit that I am
> > skeptical of this 3-person claim, but I am open to enlightenment.
> > (Om )
>
> > As to Phil track hubs, I learned today that the bearings on my 2Xf
> > fixed Phil are fine after almost 11K miles: the roughness was the
> > not-fully-tightened spacer.
>
> > Patrick "no dish, no worries" Moore
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Interesting marketing strategy

[JoelMatthews]

Very annoying sales technique.  Perhaps they figure for every 99
people they annoy who come looking for a Rivendell but find something
else they will get 1 person interested enough to think about bidding.
Even if I wanted the product I would not bid on a bait and switch
auction.

On Feb 14, 7:48 pm, William  wrote:
> I saw this listing on ebay:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/1983-TREK-520-LUGGED-FRAME-AND-FORK-RIVENDELL-GEO...
>
> Somebody selling a 1983 Trek 520.  He puts Rivendell in the title,
> presumably to attract potential buyers.  That in itself is
> interesting, that a tiny sliver company like Riv is so influential
> that it's used a hook to sell a Trek (or a Raleigh, or a Specialized,
> as we've all seen repeatedly).  This seller goes one step further with
> the text:
>
> DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY ON A RIVENDELL FRAME. BUILD THIS LOW BB FRAME
> TO YOUR OWN SPECS !
>
> If you tried to attract a Riv-fancier with the title, is it smart to
> then bash Riv calling it a waste?  Clearly the seller meant something
> more along the lines of "my frame is just as good as a Rivendell, only
> cheaper and older", but I'm not sure he said what he meant.  Does it
> amuse you how people sell their non-Rivendell stuff as Rivendell-ish?
> Is there another bicycle business in the WORLD that is both smaller
> and yet more influential than Rivendell?

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[RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[JoelMatthews]

> Cassette hub --> less likely to break an axle
> Dishless wheel --> less likely to break a spoke

One of the reasons MaxiCar hubs are built around solid axles and I
built the Campy hubs around solid E.A.I. axles.

On Feb 14, 8:05 pm, William  wrote:
> All other things being equal, a cassette hub offers a far stronger
> axle, because the axle is supported in more places and closer to the
> frame dropouts.  Bent or broken axles are essentially non-existent on
> even the cheapest cassette hubs.  Among freewheel hubs, I know of few
> that are stronger than Phil.  The number of people in the world that
> can bend or break the axle on a Phil FW hub is small.
>
> All other things being equal a dishless wheel offers more equal spoke
> tension left vs right.  That's one of the reasons 130 and 135
> developed and why 145 and 160 are on tandems (and there are other
> reasons).
>
> Cassette hub --> less likely to break an axle
> Dishless wheel --> less likely to break a spoke
>
> On Feb 14, 5:57 pm, JoelMatthews  wrote:
>
>
>
> > > Can you (or someone else) explain why this is so? I thought the whole
> > > point of the cassette hub design was greater strength because the axle
> > > is supported by bearings further out to the right. So what makes this
> > > fw hub stronger even than the Phil fw hub?
>
> > That is what I have heard as well.  Obviously I have no problem with
> > FW hubs - I've never even owned a set of cassette hubs - but always
> > thought maybe I was giving up some strength to the people riding on
> > those new fangled thangs.
>
> > On Feb 14, 5:59 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
>
> > > On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 4:46 PM, Thomas Lynn Skean
>
> > >  wrote:
>
> > > > Generally, the 3-people-who-actually-know-these-things that I contacted 
> > > > all implied or stated outright that a wheel built around a Phil Wood 
> > > > IRD-style FW hub would be stronger than one built with a cassette hub, 
> > > > all else equal.
>
> > > Can you (or someone else) explain why this is so? I thought the whole
> > > point of the cassette hub design was greater strength because the axle
> > > is supported by bearings further out to the right. So what makes this
> > > fw hub stronger even than the Phil fw hub? I must admit that I am
> > > skeptical of this 3-person claim, but I am open to enlightenment.
> > > (Om )
>
> > > As to Phil track hubs, I learned today that the bearings on my 2Xf
> > > fixed Phil are fine after almost 11K miles: the roughness was the
> > > not-fully-tightened spacer.
>
> > > Patrick "no dish, no worries" Moore

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Re: [RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[Thomas Lynn Skean]

That strength-comparison is based on the axle being the weak component in the 
hub. With Phil hubs (and some others too, I'd guess) the axle is so over-built 
that even in the case of the freewheel the axle simply isn't likely to fail, 
even under the likes of me!

So the idea is that uneven spoke tension rises to the top of the pile of 
compromises one would like to mitigate/eliminate in the built wheel. So reduced 
dish, as available with an IRD-style Phil FW hub when compared to a Phil 
cassette hub, becomes a more valuable component of the wheel than a 
strengthened axle.

And yes, I have bent a Shimano axle and ruined a Deore hub that way. One of my 
failed wheels.

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean


On Feb 14, 2011, at 7:57 PM, JoelMatthews  wrote:

>> Can you (or someone else) explain why this is so? I thought the whole
>> point of the cassette hub design was greater strength because the axle
>> is supported by bearings further out to the right. So what makes this
>> fw hub stronger even than the Phil fw hub?
> 
> That is what I have heard as well.  Obviously I have no problem with
> FW hubs - I've never even owned a set of cassette hubs - but always
> thought maybe I was giving up some strength to the people riding on
> those new fangled thangs.
> 
> On Feb 14, 5:59 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
>> On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 4:46 PM, Thomas Lynn Skean
>> 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>>> Generally, the 3-people-who-actually-know-these-things that I contacted all 
>>> implied or stated outright that a wheel built around a Phil Wood IRD-style 
>>> FW hub would be stronger than one built with a cassette hub, all else equal.
>> 
>> Can you (or someone else) explain why this is so? I thought the whole
>> point of the cassette hub design was greater strength because the axle
>> is supported by bearings further out to the right. So what makes this
>> fw hub stronger even than the Phil fw hub? I must admit that I am
>> skeptical of this 3-person claim, but I am open to enlightenment.
>> (Om )
>> 
>> As to Phil track hubs, I learned today that the bearings on my 2Xf
>> fixed Phil are fine after almost 11K miles: the roughness was the
>> not-fully-tightened spacer.
>> 
>> Patrick "no dish, no worries" Moore
> 
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[RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[rperks]

Thomas,
Out of curiosity, where are you riding that it is so cold?  If it is
that cold and wet you may or may not have problems with diferent free
hubs freezing up as well, it can and has happened.  Some manufacturers
go as far as selling their own greases / oils partially for these
reasons.  If money were not the object, and wheel strentght is
paramount, you could look into some of the mountain bike single speed
hubs: King, Hope and DT all have single speed free hubs that will let
you run the back 6 cogs of a 9sp casette.  These hubs all can be built
up dishless, and will index as well since it is a casette.  Each has
some pros and cons, like stee vs Al freehub bodies, color options or
disc brake hole to ignore, but worth a look.  If I burn out on
freewheels that is the direction I am heading.

Rob


On Feb 14, 6:20 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean 
wrote:
> That strength-comparison is based on the axle being the weak component in the 
> hub. With Phil hubs (and some others too, I'd guess) the axle is so 
> over-built that even in the case of the freewheel the axle simply isn't 
> likely to fail, even under the likes of me!
>
> So the idea is that uneven spoke tension rises to the top of the pile of 
> compromises one would like to mitigate/eliminate in the built wheel. So 
> reduced dish, as available with an IRD-style Phil FW hub when compared to a 
> Phil cassette hub, becomes a more valuable component of the wheel than a 
> strengthened axle.
>
> And yes, I have bent a Shimano axle and ruined a Deore hub that way. One of 
> my failed wheels.
>
> Yours,
> Thomas Lynn Skean
>
> On Feb 14, 2011, at 7:57 PM, JoelMatthews  wrote:
>
>
>
> >> Can you (or someone else) explain why this is so? I thought the whole
> >> point of the cassette hub design was greater strength because the axle
> >> is supported by bearings further out to the right. So what makes this
> >> fw hub stronger even than the Phil fw hub?
>
> > That is what I have heard as well.  Obviously I have no problem with
> > FW hubs - I've never even owned a set of cassette hubs - but always
> > thought maybe I was giving up some strength to the people riding on
> > those new fangled thangs.
>
> > On Feb 14, 5:59 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
> >> On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 4:46 PM, Thomas Lynn Skean
>
> >>  wrote:
>
> >>> Generally, the 3-people-who-actually-know-these-things that I contacted 
> >>> all implied or stated outright that a wheel built around a Phil Wood 
> >>> IRD-style FW hub would be stronger than one built with a cassette hub, 
> >>> all else equal.
>
> >> Can you (or someone else) explain why this is so? I thought the whole
> >> point of the cassette hub design was greater strength because the axle
> >> is supported by bearings further out to the right. So what makes this
> >> fw hub stronger even than the Phil fw hub? I must admit that I am
> >> skeptical of this 3-person claim, but I am open to enlightenment.
> >> (Om )
>
> >> As to Phil track hubs, I learned today that the bearings on my 2Xf
> >> fixed Phil are fine after almost 11K miles: the roughness was the
> >> not-fully-tightened spacer.
>
> >> Patrick "no dish, no worries" Moore
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com.
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> > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > For more options, visit this group 
> > athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[Thomas Lynn Skean]

Well, upon close inspection I notice what appears to be a new chip in the paint 
on the interior of the drive-side dropout. So... the Shimano freewheel isn't 
going to work for me as is. But it was close enough to wonder if other brands 
would work. It might even be reasonable to make the Shimano work with the 
addition of a spacing washer on the hub axle. I will likely *not* do this; I 
don't want to "re-space" the frame.

Oh well... I'll give the IRD revival techniques a shot. If they work, I'll 
likely be happy with that if I can develop a reliable maintenance pattern.

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean


Begin forwarded message:

> From: Thomas Lynn Skean 
> Date: February 14, 2011 3:45:50 PM CST
> To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel 
> experiences?
> Reply-To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> 

> Hi, all.
> 
> I hope this isn't a duplicate... I thought I already responded but I can't 
> find evidence of it in my e-mail... anyway...
> 
> Thanks so much for digging up that post.
> 
> I am *definitely* going to have to try the Shimano again. Too many people 
> think it should work. I know it didn't work for me. But I wonder if there was 
> some other, transient issue... 
> 
> debris? (I looked for it but saw none)... 
> 
> wheel not seated in drop-out properly? (I looked for this and did not see 
> it... and, interestingly, though it didn't "turn" well in either direction, 
> it did shift perfectly!)... 
> 
> some interference between derailer and freewheel? (didn't notice it, but 
> didn't look for it explicitly)... 
> 
> worst would be interference between small cog and chainstay (definitely 
> looked for it and it was not there... but if its presence (or its absence 
> when I looked) resulted from the wheel not being seated properly it might've 
> shifted around during use... oh well, if that was the problem, there'll be 
> evidence on the chainstay... crap!)
> 
> Frankly, there are things do poorly with my bike: servicing loose-ball 
> bearings, mounting tight tires come to mind. But taking out and re-mounting 
> the rear wheel is definitely one of the things I generally do well, simply 
> from lots of experience. Replacing broken wheels (never damaged during 
> replacement), replacing wheels to switch to/fro studded tires in winter... 
> I've also repaired the odd flat (which I have sometimes caused by trying to 
> remove a way-too-tight studded tire from a poorly-sized or very 
> loosely-tensioned rim). I'm pretty good with rear wheel mounting. So I'll be 
> particularly annoyed with myself if it turns out I botched it on *this 
> particular* occasion.
> 
> Obviously my overall problem (one many of us on the list share, I believe) is 
> not having 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, 52 weeks a year to mess around with 
> and ride my bicycle. Then I would be much more likely to take the tim

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Re: [RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[Thomas Lynn Skean]

Wheaton, IL. The -13 was a local minimum for this season. A couple years ago it 
hit -20. That's not wind chill.

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean


On Feb 14, 2011, at 9:06 PM, rperks  wrote:

> Thomas,
> Out of curiosity, where are you riding that it is so cold?  If it is
> that cold and wet you may or may not have problems with diferent free
> hubs freezing up as well, it can and has happened.  Some manufacturers
> go as far as selling their own greases / oils partially for these
> reasons.  If money were not the object, and wheel strentght is
> paramount, you could look into some of the mountain bike single speed
> hubs: King, Hope and DT all have single speed free hubs that will let
> you run the back 6 cogs of a 9sp casette.  These hubs all can be built
> up dishless, and will index as well since it is a casette.  Each has
> some pros and cons, like stee vs Al freehub bodies, color options or
> disc brake hole to ignore, but worth a look.  If I burn out on
> freewheels that is the direction I am heading.
> 
> Rob
> 
> 
> On Feb 14, 6:20 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean 
> wrote:
>> That strength-comparison is based on the axle being the weak component in 
>> the hub. With Phil hubs (and some others too, I'd guess) the axle is so 
>> over-built that even in the case of the freewheel the axle simply isn't 
>> likely to fail, even under the likes of me!
>> 
>> So the idea is that uneven spoke tension rises to the top of the pile of 
>> compromises one would like to mitigate/eliminate in the built wheel. So 
>> reduced dish, as available with an IRD-style Phil FW hub when compared to a 
>> Phil cassette hub, becomes a more valuable component of the wheel than a 
>> strengthened axle.
>> 
>> And yes, I have bent a Shimano axle and ruined a Deore hub that way. One of 
>> my failed wheels.
>> 
>> Yours,
>> Thomas Lynn Skean
>> 
>> On Feb 14, 2011, at 7:57 PM, JoelMatthews  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> 
 Can you (or someone else) explain why this is so? I thought the whole
 point of the cassette hub design was greater strength because the axle
 is supported by bearings further out to the right. So what makes this
 fw hub stronger even than the Phil fw hub?
>> 
>>> That is what I have heard as well.  Obviously I have no problem with
>>> FW hubs - I've never even owned a set of cassette hubs - but always
>>> thought maybe I was giving up some strength to the people riding on
>>> those new fangled thangs.
>> 
>>> On Feb 14, 5:59 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
 On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 4:46 PM, Thomas Lynn Skean
>> 
  wrote:
>> 
> Generally, the 3-people-who-actually-know-these-things that I contacted 
> all implied or stated outright that a wheel built around a Phil Wood 
> IRD-style FW hub would be stronger than one built with a cassette hub, 
> all else equal.
>> 
 Can you (or someone else) explain why this is so? I thought the whole
 point of the cassette hub design was greater strength because the axle
 is supported by bearings further out to the right. So what makes this
 fw hub stronger even than the Phil fw hub? I must admit that I am
 skeptical of this 3-person claim, but I am open to enlightenment.
 (Om )
>> 
 As to Phil track hubs, I learned today that the bearings on my 2Xf
 fixed Phil are fine after almost 11K miles: the roughness was the
 not-fully-tightened spacer.
>> 
 Patrick "no dish, no worries" Moore
>> 
>>> --
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>>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>> athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.- Hide quoted text -
>> 
>> - Show quoted text -
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: SoCal Riv Ride - Feb 12 in SD

[John Speare]

Can someone who went on the ride verify that this is the map for the route:
http://ridewithgps.com/routes/252276

I'll be in SD in April and this sounds like a perfect day ride.

On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 7:35 AM, Esteban  wrote:

> I have some photos up from my camera phone - and a write-up on the
> blog:
>
> http://veloflaneur.wordpress.com/2011/02/14/all-tires-welcome/
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/25671211@N02/sets/72157625919265243/
>
> The route is worth studying for anyone planning a vacation in San
> Diego. Wow!  Thanks, Dustin!
>
> Esteban
> San Diego, Calif.
>
> On Feb 13, 7:55 pm, doug peterson  wrote:
> > Some of the most interesting "roads" aren't paved.  And we saw some
> > pretty interesting stuff yesterday!
> >
> > You're correct David; your tire was just low, not flat.
> >
> > dougP
> >
> > On Feb 13, 5:53 pm, cyclotourist  wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > > That's my favorite response!!!
> >
> > > On Sun, Feb 13, 2011 at 3:39 PM, Michael_S  >wrote:
> >
> > > > I was a little worried in riding the rock gardens on the 2nd half of
> > > > the ride on the Jack Brown greensDustin led us on on some pretty
> > > > rough stuff... but I escaped with nary a scratch.   Some hiker we
> > > > passed was pretty amazed we were on that trail on "road" bikes.
> >
> > > > ~Mike
> >
> > > > On Feb 13, 1:45 pm, cyclotourist  wrote:
> > > > > How 'bout "Zero flat repairs"?  Slow leaks that had to be topped
> off
> > > > don't
> > > > > count!  :-)
> >
> > > > > On Sun, Feb 13, 2011 at 1:16 PM, doug peterson 
> > > > wrote:
> > > > > > Sorry I had to leave before the main group finished.  That was so
> much
> > > > > > fun we need to start planning the next event.  Hey, everyone must
> have
> > > > > > gotten the tire thing worked out:  ZERO flats, right?
> >
> > > > > > dougP
> >
> > > > > > On Feb 13, 8:03 am, cyclotourist  wrote:
> > > > > > > And once again, we've been able to have another great ride in
> SoCal!
> > > > > > > Yesterday we had 10 riders, which was a really good showing.
>  Five
> > > > were
> > > > > > > local to SD, the rest had to drive a couple hours to get there.
>  The
> > > > > > route
> > > > > > > was a combination of suburban roads, country back-roads, graded
> dirt
> > > > > > roads,
> > > > > > > sections of single track, rutted and eroded hike-a-bike, seven
> mile
> > > > > > > uninterrupted downhills @ 30 mph, and rural country stores/used
> car
> > > > lots.
> >
> > > > > > > Pix to prove we were there:
> > > >http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/
> >
> > > > > > > Huge THANKS to Dustin for planning the route and hosting us at
> his
> > > > house!
> > > > > >  A
> > > > > > > great meal of Nepalese food was waiting at the end for us!!!
>  Good
> > > > stuff!
> >
> > > > > > > On Tue, Feb 8, 2011 at 3:16 PM, doug peterson <
> dougpn...@cox.net>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > > > > > Jim:
> >
> > > > > > > > Same old 35 mm Marathon Supremes as before.  Got a brand new
> set of
> > > > > > > > 40s from Riv a while back but too lazy to change tires right
> now.
> > > > > > > > Besides, the 35s still have tread showing!  No worries.
> >
> > > > > > > > I think anything made in a 40 should be tough enough.  In my
> case,
> > > > I'm
> > > > > > > > the weak link; the bike & tires can handle things I can't.
> >
> > > > > > > > dougP
> >
> > > > > > > > On Feb 8, 2:11 pm, James Warren 
> wrote:
> > > > > > > > > What tires, Doug? I think I'm going Marathon Extreme
> 700x40.
> > > > Under
> > > > > > Silver
> > > > > > > > sidepulls on Hillborne with Bullmoose! 12-36 rear cassette.
> I'm
> > > > pretty
> > > > > > > > excited. We'll see if my 1300 ft. daily climb over the past
> month
> > > > and a
> > > > > > half
> > > > > > > > will be enough.
> >
> > > > > > > > > -Jim W.
> >
> > > > > > > > > -Original Message-
> > > > > > > > > >From: doug peterson 
> > > > > > > > > >Sent: Feb 8, 2011 2:48 PM
> > > > > > > > > >To: RBW Owners Bunch 
> > > > > > > > > >Subject: [RBW] Re: SoCal Riv Ride - Feb 12 in SD
> >
> > > > > > > > > >Pumped up the tires on the Atlantis just a couple of weeks
> ago
> > > > so
> > > > > > > > > >they're probably just right for this ride.  3 water
> bottles plus
> > > > > > > > > >groceries in the Acorn & I'll be ready to go.  Looking
> forward
> > > > to
> > > > > > > > > >seeing the paint job on the Protovelo.
> >
> > > > > > > > > >dougP
> >
> > > > > > > > > >On Feb 7, 9:46 pm, Michael_S 
> wrote:
> > > > > > > > > >> the Ram is fairly dusty still (from all the dirt trails)
> but I
> > > > > > will be
> > > > > > > > > >> there BaE @ 1000am ( earlier no doubt).  Nice to have a
> bail
> > > > out
> > > > > > > > > >> option in case the body doesn't perform as expected too.
> That
> > > > week
> > > > > > in
> > > > > > > > > >> the Yucatan didn't help my training regimen nor did the
> cold I
> > > > > > picked
> > > > > > > > > >> up down there.
> > > > > > > > > >> ~Mike
> >
> > > > > > > > > >> On Feb 7, 9:12 pm, cyclotourist  >
> > > > wrote:
> >
> > > >

[RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[rperks]

Lots of guys in the MTB world have been running the above mentioned SS
freehubs for years and think poeople like us are nuts for using
freewheels to achieve dishlessness.

Also, surefire way to revive an IRD hub
http://www.interlocracing.com/faq_warr.html
send it back for a new one, they need to know if their stuff is
failing

Rob

On Feb 14, 7:57 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean 
wrote:
> Oh, and I'd never heard of that approach being implemented. But I've always 
> felt I'd be happy with 6 speeds, if they I dexed well with quality available 
> shifters. Alas, I fear that any solution involving 6/9-speed-cassette usage 
> is even more esoteric than an IRD freewheel. And, in the end, I think my next 
> step, if I need to take one, is to drop the need for dishlessness and get a 
> Phil cassette wheel.
>
> Yours,
> Thomas Lynn Skean
>
> On Feb 14, 2011, at 9:06 PM, rperks  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Thomas,
> > Out of curiosity, where are you riding that it is so cold?  If it is
> > that cold and wet you may or may not have problems with diferent free
> > hubs freezing up as well, it can and has happened.  Some manufacturers
> > go as far as selling their own greases / oils partially for these
> > reasons.  If money were not the object, and wheel strentght is
> > paramount, you could look into some of the mountain bike single speed
> > hubs: King, Hope and DT all have single speed free hubs that will let
> > you run the back 6 cogs of a 9sp casette.  These hubs all can be built
> > up dishless, and will index as well since it is a casette.  Each has
> > some pros and cons, like stee vs Al freehub bodies, color options or
> > disc brake hole to ignore, but worth a look.  If I burn out on
> > freewheels that is the direction I am heading.
>
> > Rob
>
> > On Feb 14, 6:20 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean 
> > wrote:
> >> That strength-comparison is based on the axle being the weak component in 
> >> the hub. With Phil hubs (and some others too, I'd guess) the axle is so 
> >> over-built that even in the case of the freewheel the axle simply isn't 
> >> likely to fail, even under the likes of me!
>
> >> So the idea is that uneven spoke tension rises to the top of the pile of 
> >> compromises one would like to mitigate/eliminate in the built wheel. So 
> >> reduced dish, as available with an IRD-style Phil FW hub when compared to 
> >> a Phil cassette hub, becomes a more valuable component of the wheel than a 
> >> strengthened axle.
>
> >> And yes, I have bent a Shimano axle and ruined a Deore hub that way. One 
> >> of my failed wheels.
>
> >> Yours,
> >> Thomas Lynn Skean
>
> >> On Feb 14, 2011, at 7:57 PM, JoelMatthews  wrote:
>
>  Can you (or someone else) explain why this is so? I thought the whole
>  point of the cassette hub design was greater strength because the axle
>  is supported by bearings further out to the right. So what makes this
>  fw hub stronger even than the Phil fw hub?
>
> >>> That is what I have heard as well.  Obviously I have no problem with
> >>> FW hubs - I've never even owned a set of cassette hubs - but always
> >>> thought maybe I was giving up some strength to the people riding on
> >>> those new fangled thangs.
>
> >>> On Feb 14, 5:59 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
>  On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 4:46 PM, Thomas Lynn Skean
>
>   wrote:
>
> > Generally, the 3-people-who-actually-know-these-things that I contacted 
> > all implied or stated outright that a wheel built around a Phil Wood 
> > IRD-style FW hub would be stronger than one built with a cassette hub, 
> > all else equal.
>
>  Can you (or someone else) explain why this is so? I thought the whole
>  point of the cassette hub design was greater strength because the axle
>  is supported by bearings further out to the right. So what makes this
>  fw hub stronger even than the Phil fw hub? I must admit that I am
>  skeptical of this 3-person claim, but I am open to enlightenment.
>  (Om )
>
>  As to Phil track hubs, I learned today that the bearings on my 2Xf
>  fixed Phil are fine after almost 11K miles: the roughness was the
>  not-fully-tightened spacer.
>
>  Patrick "no dish, no worries" Moore
>
> >>> --
> >>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> >>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> >>> To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com.
> >>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
> >>> rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> >>> For more options, visit this group 
> >>> athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.-Hide quoted text 
> >>> -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
> > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > For more options, visit this gr

[RBW] Re: SoCal Riv Ride - Feb 12 in SD

[doug peterson]

John:

That would be it.  Mile 29.4 is where David, Jenny & I bailed out.  We
took the left while the rest of the group continued on the route.  You
can see how that connects to the outbound route around 15.  We then
headed back up course & made a left at the intersection that's 12.7
outbound & 44.7 returning. We got a total of 42 for the shorter
version.

Carry plenty of food & water.  Take a look at the posted photos.  We
had some high quality hike-a-bike sections.  Caution:  Hills may be
steeper than they apperar in photos!  Great ride.

When do you plan to be in San Diego?  I'm a bit north, Orange County,
but get down there often.  Maybe we could do this ride; I'm curious
about the part I missed.

dougP

On Feb 14, 7:47 pm, John Speare  wrote:
> Can someone who went on the ride verify that this is the map for the 
> route:http://ridewithgps.com/routes/252276
>
> I'll be in SD in April and this sounds like a perfect day ride.
>
>
>
> On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 7:35 AM, Esteban  wrote:
> > I have some photos up from my camera phone - and a write-up on the
> > blog:
>
> >http://veloflaneur.wordpress.com/2011/02/14/all-tires-welcome/
>
> >http://www.flickr.com/photos/25671211@N02/sets/72157625919265243/
>
> > The route is worth studying for anyone planning a vacation in San
> > Diego. Wow!  Thanks, Dustin!
>
> > Esteban
> > San Diego, Calif.
>
> > On Feb 13, 7:55 pm, doug peterson  wrote:
> > > Some of the most interesting "roads" aren't paved.  And we saw some
> > > pretty interesting stuff yesterday!
>
> > > You're correct David; your tire was just low, not flat.
>
> > > dougP
>
> > > On Feb 13, 5:53 pm, cyclotourist  wrote:
>
> > > > That's my favorite response!!!
>
> > > > On Sun, Feb 13, 2011 at 3:39 PM, Michael_S  > >wrote:
>
> > > > > I was a little worried in riding the rock gardens on the 2nd half of
> > > > > the ride on the Jack Brown greensDustin led us on on some pretty
> > > > > rough stuff... but I escaped with nary a scratch.   Some hiker we
> > > > > passed was pretty amazed we were on that trail on "road" bikes.
>
> > > > > ~Mike
>
> > > > > On Feb 13, 1:45 pm, cyclotourist  wrote:
> > > > > > How 'bout "Zero flat repairs"?  Slow leaks that had to be topped
> > off
> > > > > don't
> > > > > > count!  :-)
>
> > > > > > On Sun, Feb 13, 2011 at 1:16 PM, doug peterson 
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > > > > Sorry I had to leave before the main group finished.  That was so
> > much
> > > > > > > fun we need to start planning the next event.  Hey, everyone must
> > have
> > > > > > > gotten the tire thing worked out:  ZERO flats, right?
>
> > > > > > > dougP
>
> > > > > > > On Feb 13, 8:03 am, cyclotourist  wrote:
> > > > > > > > And once again, we've been able to have another great ride in
> > SoCal!
> > > > > > > > Yesterday we had 10 riders, which was a really good showing.
> >  Five
> > > > > were
> > > > > > > > local to SD, the rest had to drive a couple hours to get there.
> >  The
> > > > > > > route
> > > > > > > > was a combination of suburban roads, country back-roads, graded
> > dirt
> > > > > > > roads,
> > > > > > > > sections of single track, rutted and eroded hike-a-bike, seven
> > mile
> > > > > > > > uninterrupted downhills @ 30 mph, and rural country stores/used
> > car
> > > > > lots.
>
> > > > > > > > Pix to prove we were there:
> > > > >http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/
>
> > > > > > > > Huge THANKS to Dustin for planning the route and hosting us at
> > his
> > > > > house!
> > > > > > >  A
> > > > > > > > great meal of Nepalese food was waiting at the end for us!!!
> >  Good
> > > > > stuff!
>
> > > > > > > > On Tue, Feb 8, 2011 at 3:16 PM, doug peterson <
> > dougpn...@cox.net>
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > > > > > > Jim:
>
> > > > > > > > > Same old 35 mm Marathon Supremes as before.  Got a brand new
> > set of
> > > > > > > > > 40s from Riv a while back but too lazy to change tires right
> > now.
> > > > > > > > > Besides, the 35s still have tread showing!  No worries.
>
> > > > > > > > > I think anything made in a 40 should be tough enough.  In my
> > case,
> > > > > I'm
> > > > > > > > > the weak link; the bike & tires can handle things I can't.
>
> > > > > > > > > dougP
>
> > > > > > > > > On Feb 8, 2:11 pm, James Warren 
> > wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > What tires, Doug? I think I'm going Marathon Extreme
> > 700x40.
> > > > > Under
> > > > > > > Silver
> > > > > > > > > sidepulls on Hillborne with Bullmoose! 12-36 rear cassette.
> > I'm
> > > > > pretty
> > > > > > > > > excited. We'll see if my 1300 ft. daily climb over the past
> > month
> > > > > and a
> > > > > > > half
> > > > > > > > > will be enough.
>
> > > > > > > > > > -Jim W.
>
> > > > > > > > > > -Original Message-
> > > > > > > > > > >From: doug peterson 
> > > > > > > > > > >Sent: Feb 8, 2011 2:48 PM
> > > > > > > > > > >To: RBW Owners Bunch 
> > > > > > > > > > >Subject: [RBW] Re: SoCal Riv Ride - Feb 12 in SD
>
> > > > > > > > > > >Pumped up the tires on the Atlantis just a couple of weeks
> > a

Re: [RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[Thomas Lynn Skean]

Oh, and I'd never heard of that approach being implemented. But I've always 
felt I'd be happy with 6 speeds, if they I dexed well with quality available 
shifters. Alas, I fear that any solution involving 6/9-speed-cassette usage is 
even more esoteric than an IRD freewheel. And, in the end, I think my next 
step, if I need to take one, is to drop the need for dishlessness and get a 
Phil cassette wheel.

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean


On Feb 14, 2011, at 9:06 PM, rperks  wrote:

> Thomas,
> Out of curiosity, where are you riding that it is so cold?  If it is
> that cold and wet you may or may not have problems with diferent free
> hubs freezing up as well, it can and has happened.  Some manufacturers
> go as far as selling their own greases / oils partially for these
> reasons.  If money were not the object, and wheel strentght is
> paramount, you could look into some of the mountain bike single speed
> hubs: King, Hope and DT all have single speed free hubs that will let
> you run the back 6 cogs of a 9sp casette.  These hubs all can be built
> up dishless, and will index as well since it is a casette.  Each has
> some pros and cons, like stee vs Al freehub bodies, color options or
> disc brake hole to ignore, but worth a look.  If I burn out on
> freewheels that is the direction I am heading.
> 
> Rob
> 
> 
> On Feb 14, 6:20 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean 
> wrote:
>> That strength-comparison is based on the axle being the weak component in 
>> the hub. With Phil hubs (and some others too, I'd guess) the axle is so 
>> over-built that even in the case of the freewheel the axle simply isn't 
>> likely to fail, even under the likes of me!
>> 
>> So the idea is that uneven spoke tension rises to the top of the pile of 
>> compromises one would like to mitigate/eliminate in the built wheel. So 
>> reduced dish, as available with an IRD-style Phil FW hub when compared to a 
>> Phil cassette hub, becomes a more valuable component of the wheel than a 
>> strengthened axle.
>> 
>> And yes, I have bent a Shimano axle and ruined a Deore hub that way. One of 
>> my failed wheels.
>> 
>> Yours,
>> Thomas Lynn Skean
>> 
>> On Feb 14, 2011, at 7:57 PM, JoelMatthews  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> 
 Can you (or someone else) explain why this is so? I thought the whole
 point of the cassette hub design was greater strength because the axle
 is supported by bearings further out to the right. So what makes this
 fw hub stronger even than the Phil fw hub?
>> 
>>> That is what I have heard as well.  Obviously I have no problem with
>>> FW hubs - I've never even owned a set of cassette hubs - but always
>>> thought maybe I was giving up some strength to the people riding on
>>> those new fangled thangs.
>> 
>>> On Feb 14, 5:59 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
 On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 4:46 PM, Thomas Lynn Skean
>> 
  wrote:
>> 
> Generally, the 3-people-who-actually-know-these-things that I contacted 
> all implied or stated outright that a wheel built around a Phil Wood 
> IRD-style FW hub would be stronger than one built with a cassette hub, 
> all else equal.
>> 
 Can you (or someone else) explain why this is so? I thought the whole
 point of the cassette hub design was greater strength because the axle
 is supported by bearings further out to the right. So what makes this
 fw hub stronger even than the Phil fw hub? I must admit that I am
 skeptical of this 3-person claim, but I am open to enlightenment.
 (Om )
>> 
 As to Phil track hubs, I learned today that the bearings on my 2Xf
 fixed Phil are fine after almost 11K miles: the roughness was the
 not-fully-tightened spacer.
>> 
 Patrick "no dish, no worries" Moore
>> 
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
>>> rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>>> For more options, visit this group 
>>> athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.- Hide quoted text -
>> 
>> - Show quoted text -
> 
> -- 
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[RBW] Re: Another Rivendell... which one?

[doug peterson]

Best excuse I've heard in a long time; gotta keep that in mind except
we don't have dogs.

As to the stair thing, any bike is a hassle to lug up & down stairs.
They are kinda cumbersome even if light.  A typical Riv set up
suitable for country rambling is going to be at least 25 lbs and
probably closer to 30.  My Atlantis is always around 30 & I frequently
hike down some stairs at a Metrolink station.  It's only a long single
flight & that's plenty.  Bikes & stairs just don't work too well
together.

dougP

On Feb 14, 8:41 am, Jim Phillips  wrote:
> Hard to explain but we take 5 dogs and luggage including astronomy gear. I 
> just prefer to have a second bike and not carry one back and forth. Perhaps 
> just an excuse.
>
> JimP
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 14, 2011, at 7:26 AM, MichaelH  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Pardon me, but could you help me understand why the bike wouldn't fit
> > on a hitch or roof rack?  Maybe all you need is a second set of wheels
> > and a nice Saris hitch rack?
>
> > michael
>
> > On Feb 13, 10:41 am, JimP  wrote:
> >> I have  a Sam Hillborne which I love, I ordered it with a 56 cm frame
> >> and, as it turns out, I should have ordered the 54. Even so, it rides
> >> like a dream. I have a farm located about 200 miles from home. It is
> >> difficult to carry the bike back and forth without taking two cars so,
> >> ahem... I have an excuse to buy another Rivendell. :^)
> >> To be honest I really want an A. Homer Hilson but I do realize it is
> >> very similar (functionally identical) to the Hillborne. That's OK as
> >> the two bikes will be at different locations but I should at least
> >> give thought to another type Rivendell, maybe an Atlantis, a Rodeo,
> >> Ramboulet or... What do you think?
>
> >> I am 60 yo and have really just gotten into cycling. At home I ride
> >> around the city just absorbing the beauty of being outdoors in a
> >> wonderful old city. I take a camera sometimes and like photographing
> >> some of the beauty (including bike) around me. But, mostly I just
> >> enjoy the ride. I usually ride for about 40 minutes to an hour and
> >> head back home. At the Farm I have access to about 3000 acres of
> >> pastures and hardwood forests with horse trails and, no trails at all.
> >> I want to explore this area with my bike again, just enjoying the
> >> scenery and being outside alone with nature.
>
> >> Any thoughts?
>
> >> best,
>
> >> JimP
>
> > --
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[RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[charlie]

I used to ride in wet and freezing weather with Sunrace
freewheelsnot with a Phil hub (Suzues) and with friction
shifters...why index, it just complicates things ? Never had a problem
either. Lube gels at low temps and dirt gets into the innards in the
heat requiring a good flushing to free them up on occasion. I had
planned to go with a Phil hub and a freewheel making a symmetrical
wheel but chose to go with a cassette system for now. I'm all for
simplicity if attainable.
The Phil cassette hub looks inviting but expensive.

On Feb 14, 12:08 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean 
wrote:
> Well, I hate to ask... but...
>
> 1) Do you ride regularly in wet weather?
> 2) Do you ride regularly in cold (sub-freezing? sub-zero?) weather?
> 3) Do you have a Phil Wood hub nominally intended for an IRD freewheel?
> 4) Are you using modern Shimano 8-speed shifters (e.g. the 8-speed bar-ends 
> sold by RBW) in index mode?
>
> If all of those answers are true, then our situations are comparable. Yeah! 
> I'll definitely look into the Sunrace freewheels, since if I recall correctly 
> they're quite inexpensive. Otherwise, I wonder if you *would* have problems 
> if they were all true.
>
> I'll look into them anyway since they're $13 each. I'll buy one. If it works 
> and lasts 2000 miles including next winter, I'd buy a two dozen more and 
> replace them every 1500-1750 miles. $325 for 7-8 years of riding. That'd 
> work. :)
>
> Yours,
> Thomas Lynn Skean
>
> - SISDDWG  wrote:
> > I've been using Sunrace freewheels for several years and I've had no
> > issues with them - none, zero. They shift fine and seem to last quite
> > a long time.
>
> > On Feb 14, 5:28 am, Seth Vidal  wrote:
> > > On Sun, Feb 13, 2011 at 11:57 PM, james  wrote:
> > > > fwiw I've also had one ird freewheel fail on me entirely and the one
> > > > i'm using right now 'freezes' when the weather gets cold.  i
> > > > appreciate the info on the cold and the grease, but i would like to
> > > > know also if there are other good freewheels that run about
> > > > 13-32/34... i could only find cheap ones i trusted less than the ird,
> > > > but now i'm not so sure...
>
> > > I've never used them but I wonder how the sunrace ones are?
>
> > >http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=31292&;...
>
> > > For $19 - cheap enough to try one out and find out if they are awful or 
> > > good.
>
> > > -sv
>
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[RBW] Re: Sweater wool sheep breed revealed

[William]

We all know you don't have to look fast to be fast.  The interwebs say
the Cheviot is a hardy breed with strong constitution and is fast
maturing.  Seems to work.

On Feb 14, 6:08 pm, JoelMatthews  wrote:
> Well, it has a nice ring to it.  Not sure if they are the fastest
> sheep in the world.  At least not when their wool is fully grown out
> as the one in Grant's link.
>
> On Feb 14, 6:54 pm, William  wrote:
>
> > Will the 650B cantilever braked Roadeo model be called the
> > "Cheviot" ?
>
> > On Feb 14, 3:02 pm, JoelMatthews  wrote:
>
> > > Too cool Grant!  Thank you for the follow up.  I've seen Chevoit in
> > > real life.  Very handsome critters.
>
> > > Can't wait to add to my collection of cardigans.
>
> > > On Feb 14, 4:56 pm, grant  wrote:
>
> > > > It's the Cheviot, a hardy breed that lives in the hilly border area
> > > > btw England and Scotland...originally, at least, and lots are still
> > > > there.
> > > > There is a Cheviot Society,and even an American Cheviot Sheep Society
>
> > > >http://www.cheviotsheep.org/index.html
>
> > > > You can find all kinds of Cheviot images on the web. Rest assured ours
> > > > come from the best-looking, most rugged ones---not the "show sheep"
> > > > shown shorn just so. I stipulate that.
>
> > > > Sweater news, not intending to stir a pot:
>
> > > > Vest: the one shown was izzactly like the first one (except for the
> > > > pocket), but in any case we're shrinking the shoulders a bit and
> > > > opening up the armhole. Twill be perf!
>
> > > > Rollnecker: Might not do it, although if the sample we have here were
> > > > a large or xl, we'd definitely not do it, because I'd have mine... I
> > > > like the style a lot, but my radar says it won't be popular.
>
> > > > Army type: We're going with this, as is.
>
> > > > Cardigan: Adding a rib to the lower hem. Basically, same as before.
> > > > Close enough!
>
> > > > G

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Re: [RBW] Re: SoCal Riv Ride - Feb 12 in SD

[cyclotourist]

Hi John, it's a great route I would encourage you to take. Just be aware of
the singletrack you're going to need to take at mile 20.6.  It's not marked
at all, so you have to be on the look out for it.  That's where the
hike-a-bike section begins.  That's just for ~half a mile though.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/5441062476/


On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 8:08 PM, doug peterson  wrote:

> John:
>
> That would be it.  Mile 29.4 is where David, Jenny & I bailed out.  We
> took the left while the rest of the group continued on the route.  You
> can see how that connects to the outbound route around 15.  We then
> headed back up course & made a left at the intersection that's 12.7
> outbound & 44.7 returning. We got a total of 42 for the shorter
> version.
>
> Carry plenty of food & water.  Take a look at the posted photos.  We
> had some high quality hike-a-bike sections.  Caution:  Hills may be
> steeper than they apperar in photos!  Great ride.
>
> When do you plan to be in San Diego?  I'm a bit north, Orange County,
> but get down there often.  Maybe we could do this ride; I'm curious
> about the part I missed.
>
> dougP
>
> On Feb 14, 7:47 pm, John Speare  wrote:
> > Can someone who went on the ride verify that this is the map for the
> route:http://ridewithgps.com/routes/252276
> >
> > I'll be in SD in April and this sounds like a perfect day ride.
> >
> >
> >
> > On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 7:35 AM, Esteban  wrote:
> > > I have some photos up from my camera phone - and a write-up on the
> > > blog:
> >
> > >http://veloflaneur.wordpress.com/2011/02/14/all-tires-welcome/
> >
> > >http://www.flickr.com/photos/25671211@N02/sets/72157625919265243/
> >
> > > The route is worth studying for anyone planning a vacation in San
> > > Diego. Wow!  Thanks, Dustin!
> >
> > > Esteban
> > > San Diego, Calif.
> >
> > > On Feb 13, 7:55 pm, doug peterson  wrote:
> > > > Some of the most interesting "roads" aren't paved.  And we saw some
> > > > pretty interesting stuff yesterday!
> >
> > > > You're correct David; your tire was just low, not flat.
> >
> > > > dougP
> >
> > > > On Feb 13, 5:53 pm, cyclotourist  wrote:
> >
> > > > > That's my favorite response!!!
> >
> > > > > On Sun, Feb 13, 2011 at 3:39 PM, Michael_S <
> mikeybi...@rocketmail.com
> > > >wrote:
> >
> > > > > > I was a little worried in riding the rock gardens on the 2nd half
> of
> > > > > > the ride on the Jack Brown greensDustin led us on on some
> pretty
> > > > > > rough stuff... but I escaped with nary a scratch.   Some hiker we
> > > > > > passed was pretty amazed we were on that trail on "road" bikes.
> >
> > > > > > ~Mike
> >
> > > > > > On Feb 13, 1:45 pm, cyclotourist  wrote:
> > > > > > > How 'bout "Zero flat repairs"?  Slow leaks that had to be
> topped
> > > off
> > > > > > don't
> > > > > > > count!  :-)
> >
> > > > > > > On Sun, Feb 13, 2011 at 1:16 PM, doug peterson <
> dougpn...@cox.net>
> > > > > > wrote:
> > > > > > > > Sorry I had to leave before the main group finished.  That
> was so
> > > much
> > > > > > > > fun we need to start planning the next event.  Hey, everyone
> must
> > > have
> > > > > > > > gotten the tire thing worked out:  ZERO flats, right?
> >
> > > > > > > > dougP
> >
> > > > > > > > On Feb 13, 8:03 am, cyclotourist 
> wrote:
> > > > > > > > > And once again, we've been able to have another great ride
> in
> > > SoCal!
> > > > > > > > > Yesterday we had 10 riders, which was a really good
> showing.
> > >  Five
> > > > > > were
> > > > > > > > > local to SD, the rest had to drive a couple hours to get
> there.
> > >  The
> > > > > > > > route
> > > > > > > > > was a combination of suburban roads, country back-roads,
> graded
> > > dirt
> > > > > > > > roads,
> > > > > > > > > sections of single track, rutted and eroded hike-a-bike,
> seven
> > > mile
> > > > > > > > > uninterrupted downhills @ 30 mph, and rural country
> stores/used
> > > car
> > > > > > lots.
> >
> > > > > > > > > Pix to prove we were there:
> > > > > >http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/
> >
> > > > > > > > > Huge THANKS to Dustin for planning the route and hosting us
> at
> > > his
> > > > > > house!
> > > > > > > >  A
> > > > > > > > > great meal of Nepalese food was waiting at the end for
> us!!!
> > >  Good
> > > > > > stuff!
> >
> > > > > > > > > On Tue, Feb 8, 2011 at 3:16 PM, doug peterson <
> > > dougpn...@cox.net>
> > > > > > wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > Jim:
> >
> > > > > > > > > > Same old 35 mm Marathon Supremes as before.  Got a brand
> new
> > > set of
> > > > > > > > > > 40s from Riv a while back but too lazy to change tires
> right
> > > now.
> > > > > > > > > > Besides, the 35s still have tread showing!  No worries.
> >
> > > > > > > > > > I think anything made in a 40 should be tough enough.  In
> my
> > > case,
> > > > > > I'm
> > > > > > > > > > the weak link; the bike & tires can handle things I
> can't.
> >
> > > > > > > > > > dougP
> >
> > > > > > > > > > On Feb 8, 2:11 pm, James Warren <
> jimcwar...@earthlink.net>

[RBW] A couple of mech questions: chainsuck and a noisy BB

[Paul Yeoh]

Hey guys,

A couple of questions, 1 on topic, 1 off!

On topic first: My almost new hillborne has suffered from chainsuck
almost since day 1. Built up by Riv with all the usual Riv bits. 9 spd
SRAM chain, Sugino RD2 triple and shimano 7spd freewheel. 30 minutes
into a dusty bumpy ride (the problem is mostly on dusty singletrack)
and I would get chain suck during downshifts or when beginning to
climb a steep incline. I took the chain off to check the chain length
- it is spot on (overlap + 1 link). I then cleaned the chain (used
bottle bath with paint thinner) and relubed it with hot wax, using an
80%/20% paraffin/beeswax mix. The chain ran beautifully after that,
quiet and smooth shifting, no suck at all. Then, just one dusty ride
later, the chain suck came back, albeit much less severe than before.
I would expect chainsuck if I was downshifting under load, but I'm
shifting well before the incline, and can also get chain suck mid-way
on the climb with no shifting involved.

I searched the group for chainsuck posts, but all of them apply to
worn chains / chain rings, which doesn't seem to be the case since
everything is virtually new even now. I emailed Keven and his advice
was to use some zipties on the chainstay as an anti-chainsuck device.
I haven't tried it yet, I probably will soon, but some part of me
wants to find a way to nip the problem at the cause rather than add a
anti-suck gadget. Any ideas appreciated!

Off topic question: I have a 2007 Giant XTC team with a really noisy
BB. It makes scraping sounds like a badly adjusted disc brake, and is
virtually constant when pedalling, except when standing to pedal,
during which it is silent when the right pedal is descending, and
noisy again when the left pedal descends. It is silent when pedalling
without load (bike on the stand). I figured that the BB (then, a
Shimano Hollowtech II) was worn, since there was about a 1/2 mm of
side to side play on the crank, and a gritty feel when turning the
crank without a chain on.

I brought it to a "good" bike shop here (subjective in Chiang Mai).
They replaced the BB with an Aerozine ceramic bearing BB (outboard
also). The new BB eradicated free play and is very smooth spinning,
yet, when I'm on the bike, the BB is still making that noise. My best
guess is the installing mechanic did not pack (enough) grease into it
- what would the wisdom on the group suggest?

Ride on!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Another Rivendell... which one?

[Stonehog]

Sheesh - don't mess with a guy's excuse to get a second Rivendell!  Jim - go 
with a Homer.  If you are longing that way, it won't let you down. 

Brian (with Homer, wanting a Saluki)

On Feb 14, 2011, at 8:41 AM, Jim Phillips  wrote:

> Hard to explain but we take 5 dogs and luggage including astronomy gear. I 
> just prefer to have a second bike and not carry one back and forth. Perhaps 
> just an excuse.
> 
> JimP
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Feb 14, 2011, at 7:26 AM, MichaelH  wrote:
> 
>> Pardon me, but could you help me understand why the bike wouldn't fit
>> on a hitch or roof rack?  Maybe all you need is a second set of wheels
>> and a nice Saris hitch rack?
>> 
>> michael
>> 
>> On Feb 13, 10:41 am, JimP  wrote:
>>> I have  a Sam Hillborne which I love, I ordered it with a 56 cm frame
>>> and, as it turns out, I should have ordered the 54. Even so, it rides
>>> like a dream. I have a farm located about 200 miles from home. It is
>>> difficult to carry the bike back and forth without taking two cars so,
>>> ahem... I have an excuse to buy another Rivendell. :^)
>>> To be honest I really want an A. Homer Hilson but I do realize it is
>>> very similar (functionally identical) to the Hillborne. That's OK as
>>> the two bikes will be at different locations but I should at least
>>> give thought to another type Rivendell, maybe an Atlantis, a Rodeo,
>>> Ramboulet or... What do you think?
>>> 
>>> I am 60 yo and have really just gotten into cycling. At home I ride
>>> around the city just absorbing the beauty of being outdoors in a
>>> wonderful old city. I take a camera sometimes and like photographing
>>> some of the beauty (including bike) around me. But, mostly I just
>>> enjoy the ride. I usually ride for about 40 minutes to an hour and
>>> head back home. At the Farm I have access to about 3000 acres of
>>> pastures and hardwood forests with horse trails and, no trails at all.
>>> I want to explore this area with my bike again, just enjoying the
>>> scenery and being outside alone with nature.
>>> 
>>> Any thoughts?
>>> 
>>> best,
>>> 
>>> JimP
>> 
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Re: [RBW] A couple of mech questions: chainsuck and a noisy BB

[Seth Vidal]

On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 11:35 PM, Paul Yeoh  wrote:
> Hey guys,
>
> A couple of questions, 1 on topic, 1 off!
>
> On topic first: My almost new hillborne has suffered from chainsuck
> almost since day 1. Built up by Riv with all the usual Riv bits. 9 spd
> SRAM chain, Sugino RD2 triple and shimano 7spd freewheel. 30 minutes
> into a dusty bumpy ride (the problem is mostly on dusty singletrack)
> and I would get chain suck during downshifts or when beginning to
> climb a steep incline. I took the chain off to check the chain length
> - it is spot on (overlap + 1 link). I then cleaned the chain (used
> bottle bath with paint thinner) and relubed it with hot wax, using an
> 80%/20% paraffin/beeswax mix. The chain ran beautifully after that,
> quiet and smooth shifting, no suck at all. Then, just one dusty ride
> later, the chain suck came back, albeit much less severe than before.
> I would expect chainsuck if I was downshifting under load, but I'm
> shifting well before the incline, and can also get chain suck mid-way
> on the climb with no shifting involved.
>
> I searched the group for chainsuck posts, but all of them apply to
> worn chains / chain rings, which doesn't seem to be the case since
> everything is virtually new even now. I emailed Keven and his advice
> was to use some zipties on the chainstay as an anti-chainsuck device.
> I haven't tried it yet, I probably will soon, but some part of me
> wants to find a way to nip the problem at the cause rather than add a
> anti-suck gadget. Any ideas appreciated!
>
> Off topic question: I have a 2007 Giant XTC team with a really noisy
> BB. It makes scraping sounds like a badly adjusted disc brake, and is
> virtually constant when pedalling, except when standing to pedal,
> during which it is silent when the right pedal is descending, and
> noisy again when the left pedal descends. It is silent when pedalling
> without load (bike on the stand). I figured that the BB (then, a
> Shimano Hollowtech II) was worn, since there was about a 1/2 mm of
> side to side play on the crank, and a gritty feel when turning the
> crank without a chain on.
>
> I brought it to a "good" bike shop here (subjective in Chiang Mai).
> They replaced the BB with an Aerozine ceramic bearing BB (outboard
> also). The new BB eradicated free play and is very smooth spinning,
> yet, when I'm on the bike, the BB is still making that noise. My best
> guess is the installing mechanic did not pack (enough) grease into it
> - what would the wisdom on the group suggest?
>

I'd suggest if the noise only happens when you're on the saddle to do this:

1. take your feet off the pedals
2. make the motion of pedaling with your hips w/o touching the pedals
or moving the cranks at all
3. see if the noise is still there, if so - then you probably need to
grease the rails of your saddle.

happened to me -nearly drove me nuts trying to find the noise.
-sv

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Re: [RBW] A couple of mech questions: chainsuck and a noisy BB

[PATRICK MOORE]

Beeswax is rather sticky for lubing bike parts, no? I know it gummed
up the springs on my former Speedplays.  Why do you add beeswax?

On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 9:35 PM, Paul Yeoh  wrote:
> Hey guys,
>
> A couple of questions, 1 on topic, 1 off!
>
> On topic first: My almost new hillborne has suffered from chainsuck
> almost since day 1. Built up by Riv with all the usual Riv bits. 9 spd
> SRAM chain, Sugino RD2 triple and shimano 7spd freewheel. 30 minutes
> into a dusty bumpy ride (the problem is mostly on dusty singletrack)
> and I would get chain suck during downshifts or when beginning to
> climb a steep incline. I took the chain off to check the chain length
> - it is spot on (overlap + 1 link). I then cleaned the chain (used
> bottle bath with paint thinner) and relubed it with hot wax, using an
> 80%/20% paraffin/beeswax mix. The chain ran beautifully after that,
> quiet and smooth shifting, no suck at all. Then, just one dusty ride
> later, the chain suck came back, albeit much less severe than before.
> I would expect chainsuck if I was downshifting under load, but I'm
> shifting well before the incline, and can also get chain suck mid-way
> on the climb with no shifting involved.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[PATRICK MOORE]

I get it; comparing different things. Thanks.

On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 7:20 PM, Thomas Lynn Skean
 wrote:
> That strength-comparison is based on the axle being the weak component in the 
> hub. With Phil hubs (and some others too, I'd guess) the axle is so 
> over-built that even in the case of the freewheel the axle simply isn't 
> likely to fail, even under the likes of me!
>
> So the idea is that uneven spoke tension rises to the top of the pile of 
> compromises one would like to mitigate/eliminate in the built wheel. So 
> reduced dish, as available with an IRD-style Phil FW hub when compared to a 
> Phil cassette hub, becomes a more valuable component of the wheel than a 
> strengthened axle.
>
> And yes, I have bent a Shimano axle and ruined a Deore hub that way. One of 
> my failed wheels.
>
> Yours,
> Thomas Lynn Skean
>
>
> On Feb 14, 2011, at 7:57 PM, JoelMatthews  wrote:
>
>>> Can you (or someone else) explain why this is so? I thought the whole
>>> point of the cassette hub design was greater strength because the axle
>>> is supported by bearings further out to the right. So what makes this
>>> fw hub stronger even than the Phil fw hub?
>>
>> That is what I have heard as well.  Obviously I have no problem with
>> FW hubs - I've never even owned a set of cassette hubs - but always
>> thought maybe I was giving up some strength to the people riding on
>> those new fangled thangs.
>>
>> On Feb 14, 5:59 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
>>> On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 4:46 PM, Thomas Lynn Skean
>>>
>>>  wrote:
>>>
 Generally, the 3-people-who-actually-know-these-things that I contacted 
 all implied or stated outright that a wheel built around a Phil Wood 
 IRD-style FW hub would be stronger than one built with a cassette hub, all 
 else equal.
>>>
>>> Can you (or someone else) explain why this is so? I thought the whole
>>> point of the cassette hub design was greater strength because the axle
>>> is supported by bearings further out to the right. So what makes this
>>> fw hub stronger even than the Phil fw hub? I must admit that I am
>>> skeptical of this 3-person claim, but I am open to enlightenment.
>>> (Om )
>>>
>>> As to Phil track hubs, I learned today that the bearings on my 2Xf
>>> fixed Phil are fine after almost 11K miles: the roughness was the
>>> not-fully-tightened spacer.
>>>
>>> Patrick "no dish, no worries" Moore
>>
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-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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Re: [RBW] Sweater wool sheep breed revealed

[Seth Vidal]

On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 5:56 PM, grant  wrote:
> It's the Cheviot, a hardy breed that lives in the hilly border area
> btw England and Scotland...originally, at least, and lots are still
> there.
> There is a Cheviot Society,and even an American Cheviot Sheep Society
>
> http://www.cheviotsheep.org/index.html


Grant,
 thank you - a knitter in my house is pleased.

-sv

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[RBW] Re: Phil Wood "IRD" FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

[Bill]

I've been riding my Sam Hillborne six days a week since last summer
with a Phil-Rivy rear hub and IRD freewheel.  It has racked up
considerable mileage commuting through show, slush, slop, salt down to
single digit temperatures and I've had absolutely zero problems with
anything.  FWIW, the bike with moustache bars and studded Nokian
Hakkapeliitas has proven to be an ideal winter steed.  I went the Phil-
Rivy-freewheel route for the very same reasons you did and have no
regrets at all.  I expect a different freewheel will eventually be the
ticket.  Good luck.


On Feb 14, 9:20 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean 
wrote:
> That strength-comparison is based on the axle being the weak component in the 
> hub. With Phil hubs (and some others too, I'd guess) the axle is so 
> over-built that even in the case of the freewheel the axle simply isn't 
> likely to fail, even under the likes of me!
>
> So the idea is that uneven spoke tension rises to the top of the pile of 
> compromises one would like to mitigate/eliminate in the built wheel. So 
> reduced dish, as available with an IRD-style Phil FW hub when compared to a 
> Phil cassette hub, becomes a more valuable component of the wheel than a 
> strengthened axle.
>
> And yes, I have bent a Shimano axle and ruined a Deore hub that way. One of 
> my failed wheels.
>
> Yours,
> Thomas Lynn Skean
>
> On Feb 14, 2011, at 7:57 PM, JoelMatthews  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >> Can you (or someone else) explain why this is so? I thought the whole
> >> point of the cassette hub design was greater strength because the axle
> >> is supported by bearings further out to the right. So what makes this
> >> fw hub stronger even than the Phil fw hub?
>
> > That is what I have heard as well.  Obviously I have no problem with
> > FW hubs - I've never even owned a set of cassette hubs - but always
> > thought maybe I was giving up some strength to the people riding on
> > those new fangled thangs.
>
> > On Feb 14, 5:59 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
> >> On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 4:46 PM, Thomas Lynn Skean
>
> >>  wrote:
>
> >>> Generally, the 3-people-who-actually-know-these-things that I contacted 
> >>> all implied or stated outright that a wheel built around a Phil Wood 
> >>> IRD-style FW hub would be stronger than one built with a cassette hub, 
> >>> all else equal.
>
> >> Can you (or someone else) explain why this is so? I thought the whole
> >> point of the cassette hub design was greater strength because the axle
> >> is supported by bearings further out to the right. So what makes this
> >> fw hub stronger even than the Phil fw hub? I must admit that I am
> >> skeptical of this 3-person claim, but I am open to enlightenment.
> >> (Om )
>
> >> As to Phil track hubs, I learned today that the bearings on my 2Xf
> >> fixed Phil are fine after almost 11K miles: the roughness was the
> >> not-fully-tightened spacer.
>
> >> Patrick "no dish, no worries" Moore
>
> > --
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[RBW] Re: FS: Rambouillet: TA, White Ind, Phil, Honjo.... more.

[Steve]

+1 on the pretty bike comment.  A nice deal too, since there's
currently a orange rambouillet (albiet a JB painted one) on ebay
currently at $3000.

On Feb 14, 2:12 pm, MichaelH  wrote:
> Wow, very pretty bike.  If it were either a 52 or a 62, I would snap
> it up, even though I already own a blue Rambouillet!  How'd you get
> the fenders so shiny, I clean my once a year, but they never look like
> new anymore, or were they new when you tok the pics?
>
> Somebodies gonna get a hellofa nice ride & a good lucking one too.
>
> michael
>
> On Feb 14, 9:37 am, stevep33  wrote:
>
> > Rambouillet, size 56, complete bicycle minus pedals and saddle.
> > $1700 (price includes the cost of professional packing and shipping in
> > the continental US)
>
> > I will be sad to see this bicycle go.  The orange Rambouillet paint is
> > dazzling.  There are many nice components in the deal - see list
> > below.  It rides terrifically.
> > I'm the second owner of the frame, brakes and stem, but all other
> > components were new (or NOS) in late 2009 and have 2000 miles on them.
> > The tires and brake/shifter cables have a few hundred miles only.
> > Saddle and pedals are NOT included.
>
> > I am very pleased with the condition of this bicycle.   There are a
> > scratches on the fender/rack eyelets from normal use.  I see two other
> > scratches on the frame (near the right side shifter, non-drive side
> > chainstay); I tried to document these scratches in the photo set.  The
> > back edge of the rear fender has a scratch too that was hard to
> > photograph, sorry.  There no dents or rust on the frame.
>
> > Pictureshttp://www.flickr.com/photos/27988383@N06/sets/72157626028650710/
>
> > TA Pro 5 Vis Cranks with 46/30 chainrings & TA dustcaps
> > Phil Wood 119mm bottom bracket
> > Suntour Superbe Pro front derailleur
> > Silver downtube shifters
> > XTR rear derailleur, med cage, low normal
> > 13-30 9 speed Shimano cassette (Harris Cyclery - Century Special)
> > Mavic Open Pro rims, White Industries hubs MI5 rear (135 mm) 32 hole,
> > H2 front 32 hole - built by Peter White Cycles
> > Challenge Parigi-Roubaix 700x27 tires (about 29mm wide)
> > no-name titanium allen-head skewers
> > Honjo 41mm round, smooth aluminum fenders
> > Sheldon fender nuts
> > Nitto Pearl stem 10cm
> > Nitto Soba 44cm handlebars
> > Cane Creek SCR-5 brake levers
> > Fizik bar tape
> > Tektro 521A brakes
> > Velo Orange Grand Cru seatpost - cut several cm's from its original
> > 30cm length.
> > 9 speed chain (brand?)
> > tubes and rim tape - yep, got those too.
>
> > Payment via PayPal.
>
> > You can email me at steve...@gmail.com.
>
> > Thanks for looking,
>
> > Steve

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[RBW] Newbaum's Bar Tape

[Robert Harrison]

I just thought I'd show off my Quickbeam in it's new blue livery from 
Newbaum's. It'd been a long year for my QB. It's become my daily ride 
(save for a couple of short instances when another bike was warranted). 
I've ridden it camping, done a century ride, a metric century ride, 
several 60-80 miles rides outside of group riding, and basically had a 
heck of a time.


As for the bar tape, I'll admit I haven't wrapped bars in...um...to be 
honest, possibly forever. I think I wrapped a set back in the 80's 
before I gave up most biking. Suffice to say it's been a while at best. 
I'd love to say I had no trouble, but the results here are my second 
attempt. I did a less than perfect job the first time. It wasn't easy to 
spot but I knew. I'm not saying this job is perfect, but I'm happy.


Two rolls of Newbaum's was more than enough and I've got a bit left I 
may dress up my Platrack with where it can touch the frame when turned. 
Currently I've got some black tape over old tubing doing the job but 
matching the bars seems in order.


I also mixed my own shellac, getting the shellac flakes online from 
shellac.net.


I wrote a blog entry about it here: 
http://www.statrix.com/2011/02/13/newbaums-cotton-bar-tape/


I've got a couple pictures, including a comparison with my QB a year 
ago: 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mgps-bob/sets/72157625928366829/with/4339440167/ 





Aloha!

--
Robert Harrison
Honolulu, HI
rfharri...@gmail.com / www.statrix.com / statrixbob on twitter

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