Hi, all. I hope this isn't a duplicate... I thought I already responded but I can't find evidence of it in my e-mail... anyway...
Thanks so much for digging up that post. I am *definitely* going to have to try the Shimano again. Too many people think it should work. I know it didn't work for me. But I wonder if there was some other, transient issue... debris? (I looked for it but saw none)... wheel not seated in drop-out properly? (I looked for this and did not see it... and, interestingly, though it didn't "turn" well in either direction, it did shift perfectly!)... some interference between derailer and freewheel? (didn't notice it, but didn't look for it explicitly)... worst would be interference between small cog and chainstay (definitely looked for it and it was not there... but if its presence (or its absence when I looked) resulted from the wheel not being seated properly it might've shifted around during use... oh well, if that was the problem, there'll be evidence on the chainstay... crap!) Frankly, there are things do poorly with my bike: servicing loose-ball bearings, mounting tight tires come to mind. But taking out and re-mounting the rear wheel is definitely one of the things I generally do well, simply from lots of experience. Replacing broken wheels (never damaged during replacement), replacing wheels to switch to/fro studded tires in winter... I've also repaired the odd flat (which I have sometimes caused by trying to remove a way-too-tight studded tire from a poorly-sized or very loosely-tensioned rim). I'm pretty good with rear wheel mounting. So I'll be particularly annoyed with myself if it turns out I botched it on *this particular* occasion. Obviously my overall problem (one many of us on the list share, I believe) is not having 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, 52 weeks a year to mess around with and ride my bicycle. Then I would be much more likely to take the time necessary to notice all the little things before they become big things. And still have plenty of time to ride as much as I'm physically able. Bicycle nirvana! Cyclo-librium! True existence! If the Shimano freewheel can be made to work, I won't let an ugly-for-no-good-reason big cog stop me. Though if the Shimano actually works well, I'll definitely look at the Sunrace. I don't want a 10-tooth jump like the Shimano 14-34 Megarange (does that even work?). And the 7-speed Sunrace I can get easily has the same gearing (13-15-17-19-21-24-28) as the other Shimano 7-speed I can get easily... for a third less money. Yours, Thomas Lynn Skean ----- Minh <mgiangs...@gmail.com> wrote: > Here's an email from a few months ago, i believe it's a slight spacing > optimization on the IRD phil wood hubs that make them special, but > that you can use regular free-wheels as well. > > > > --------------------------------- > The whole IRD/Riv FW thing confuses everyone I've talked to about it. > The guys at PW were kind enough to explain the IRD specific hub > design > to me last year when I was deciding on hubs for another set of > wheels. > " Garth, > OK I spoke with our engineer for a little more feedback > on this IRD thing because > it is basically a little confusing to me a well, here's > the scoop. These IRD hubs were > a concept dreamed up by Rivendell which took our > standard > freewheel hubs and > moved the hub shell over to the drive side by about 2mm > for the IRD freewheels > which is supposed to help off set the wheel dishing > (Rivendell likes to build wheels > with a little dish as possible) as well as the chain > line > when an IRD freewheel is used. > When Rivendell commissioned these IRD hubs they asked > that they be an Rivy exclusive > and we agreed to this for one year. After the year had > expired (this year) our engineer and > General Manager thought it would be a good idea to offer > the hubs as part of our product line > for riders who may want to have minimal dishing when > using an IRD. > So long story short the IRD freewheels can in deed be > used with either one of our freewheel > hubs it just depends on how concerned you are about > eliminating some of the wheel dish. > Now you know as much as I do about the reasoning behind > the IRD option and I > hope it clears things up a little. > Thank You, > Mark > Phil Wood & Co. " > In the end, I decided not to get the "IRD" FW hubs from PW, just the > same regular touring hubs I've been using. > You can still use any brand of FW with the IRD/Riv hub, it will just > be closer to the chainstay.... how close depends on your frame. > You can use an IRD FW with any english threaded FW hub. > BTW, I've been hearing more reports of IRD failures, despite the > later > supposedly improved models. There's supposed to be a new batch this > summer. Yes ..... those that got a good one say "what's the problem, > mine's been fine ?" For those that didn't .... it rots. I've never > heard of any FW having so many problems as the IRD ones. If you need > a > 13-28 and can live with the awful black Shimano 28 cog, their FW's > are > still good. > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. 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