Stus-List Please remove me from the list

2013-11-30 Thread Terry
Stu, please remove me from the C&C list.

Terry Johnson
S/V Ozymandias
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Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

2013-05-15 Thread Terry
t;
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hello all

 

I have an elderly Yanmar 3GMD engine that is raw water cooled.  It has
plugged twice in the last two years where the water goes through a knuckle
into the mixing elbow.  The first time (summer before last) was some solid
bit that had gotten stuck - how it got there I don't know.  The last time
(last week) was due to a tar like substance gumming up the knuckle.  Easy to
clear and I was on my way, but is this a harbinger of something more
serious.

 

I took the mixing elbow off a few years back and cleaned it, guess it is
time to do that again.  

 

Is the plugging coming from the exhaust and working its way into the knuckle
- for example unburned diesel?

 

Thanks for any insight.

 

Don






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Stus-List C&C 34 For Sale in Oregon

2013-09-01 Thread Terry
Hello, I am selling my 1978 C&C 34. Please see links below if you have an 
interest...

For Sale:

http://www.tj622.com/images/C&C%2034%20Ozymandias%20For%20Sale/

Photos:

http://www.tj622.com/images/C&C%2034%20Ozymandias%20Photos/


Terry Johnson 503-702-7208
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Stus-List Best Navigation app for android

2013-09-04 Thread Terry
Hello, I am looking for the best full-featured navigation app for an Samsung-S4 
smartphone with the Android operating system. Any suggestions from users?

Thanks...

Terry Johnson
S/V Ozymandias
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Re: Stus-List Best Navigation app for android

2013-09-04 Thread Terry
Pierre, can you get a chart set for Mexico?

From: Pierre Tremblay 
Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2013 10:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Best Navigation app for android

I'm using Marine Navigator on my Galaxy Nexus as a backup to my plotter. Last 
summer, I had no plotter, only the lite version of Marine navigator (plus the 
paper charts). I use BSB charts with it.

Pierre Tremblay
Avalanche
C&C38-3 WK

De : Terry 
À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Envoyé le : mercredi 4 Septembre 2013 13h25
Objet : Stus-List Best Navigation app for android



Hello, I am looking for the best full-featured navigation app for an Samsung-S4 
smartphone with the Android operating system. Any suggestions from users?

Thanks...

Terry Johnson
S/V Ozymandias
E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
Website: www.tj622.com

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Re: Stus-List Best Navigation app for android

2013-09-05 Thread Terry
Thanks Bill, I’ll check into it...Terry

From: Bill Coleman 
Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2013 8:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Best Navigation app for android

I recently got Plan2Nav.

Haven’t had the opportunity to use it too much, but I like the weather and wind 
downloads.

Free App, but charts are something like 25 – 35, don’t remember.  Read the 
reviews.

Sure get a lot more regions now than you used to 12 years ago for much more 
money.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Terry
Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2013 1:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Best Navigation app for android

 

Hello, I am looking for the best full-featured navigation app for an Samsung-S4 
smartphone with the Android operating system. Any suggestions from users?

 

Thanks...

 

Terry Johnson
S/V Ozymandias
E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
Website: www.tj622.com




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Re: Stus-List Airmar speed transducers

2013-09-07 Thread Terry
Ed, do you know what the diameter of the transducer is?  1-5/8 or 1- 1/4?

Thanks,  from Terry on behalf of Fred...

From: Ed Levert 
Sent: Saturday, September 07, 2013 3:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Airmar speed transducers

Fred:

Spent the PM changing fuel filters. Hope the transducer works. I will put it in 
the mail on Monday.

The transducer came from a C&C 30 Mk 1 I bought in 2006. A prior owner had 
installed the speed and depth transducers with a piece of  plywood on the 
outside of the hull. On the next haulout, the plywood was too spongy. 5200 had 
been used to seal the installation and the boatyard broke the through hull 
trying to remove it. So I ended up owning a new transducer and new through 
hull. The one I am sending was working when last in use. It has the 5 pin plug. 
If it works, I am happy to get it off my shelf as I have too many boat parts 
"in stock." I hope it will work for you.

Ed

  

 




From: CnC-List on behalf of Fred Hazzard
Sent: Saturday, September 7, 2013 1:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Airmar speed transducers 

Ed:   Great.  Thank you very much.  My address is:



Fred Hazzard

3232 SE Raymond St.

Portland, Or 97202



Fred



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ed Levert
Sent: Saturday, September 07, 2013 7:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Airmar speed transducers



Fred:

I have an Airmar transducer but as near as my eyes can see, it looks to be 1 
1/2" in diameter. If you can use it or even want to try, its yours. Send me 
your mailing address.

Ed Levert
Briar Patch C&C 34
New Orleans
elev...@grayinsco.com




From: CnC-List on behalf of Fred Hazzard
Sent: Friday, September 6, 2013 11:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Airmar speed transducers 



I am in need of an Airmar speed transducer.  It needs to be the older 800 
series that reads boat speed and temp.  Further it needs to be an older unit 
that is 1 5/8” in diameter.



Anybody have an older working unit in your surplus boat gear?



Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury

Portland, OR




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Stus-List My Password

2013-09-30 Thread Terry
Stu, I have been trying to log in. I asked for my password to be sent to me and 
a message came up that my password was sent to me, however, it was not. Can you 
help me with this...Terry Johnson

From: Stu 
Sent: Saturday, September 21, 2013 6:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List New web site- photos

David

I am trying to make changes to the Photo Gallery and just need to find out 
where the settings are.

1.  I have changed the quota for uploading from 1024kb to 6144kb – that should 
allow you to add more photos.
2.  The size limit has been changed – I suggest uploading a picture with a max 
size of 800 x 600 – that will save space and allow more pix to be uploaded.
3.  Uploading method has been changed from single picture to multiple.
4.  I will change your username to David Knecht – please send me your password 
so that I can confirm it works.  Changing your username may require changing 
your password – not sure but I need to check it.

Stu

From: David Knecht 
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2013 10:16 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Subject: Stus-List New web site- photos

I just tried to upload my photos from the Block Island Rendezvous.  The program 
choked after the I uploaded the first 4 of the 12 or so I have.  It appears 
that I have exceeded my limit of space, which means that the space allocation 
must be pretty small. Can that be changed?  I also can't seem to change my 
username which appears as my email address.  Last, is there any way to upload 
photos other than 1 at a time?  Thanks- Dave 


David Knecht
Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

 





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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3408 / Virus Database: 3222/6680 - Release Date: 09/19/13




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Re: Stus-List Stubs-List Do I really need OPV Valve on LPG tanks

2013-01-23 Thread Terry
I have a new backyard BBQ made by Webber with the OPV valve. Unless I go 
through a specific lighting procedure, the burners will not light. The new 
valve, once opened at the tank, requires time to equalize the pressure in the 
line before the burners can be started. This can be 60 seconds to 120 seconds. 
This is much different than the old valves.

Terry Johnson

From: Della Barba, Joe 
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 9:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Do I really need OPV Valve on LPG tanks

The valves will drive you nuts. My grill tank has one and it causes a lot of 
low gas pressure issues. 

 

Joe Della Barba

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 11:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Do I really need OPV Valve on LPG tanks

 

I’m in the early stages of converting Imzadi from an old Galley Maid alcohol 
stove to a propane stove. I got a great deal on a Flavel stove from a friend 
who decided to install a 3 burner model in his trawler after already purchasing 
the two burner stove I bought from him. That made propane a “when I can get to 
it” priority project. 

 

But I just bought two 6-pound aluminum tanks from another boater, and that has 
raised the priority to “Before I leave for the Chesapeake in June”.

 

The tanks I bought are new, and have the “traditional” valve with the round 
handle and pressure relief. The seller’s reason for selling them was that he 
had been told he needed to convert the tanks to the OPV valve that is used on 
the tank for your barbeque grill, and he did not want to go to the trouble and 
expense. Allegedly, propane suppliers cannot legally refill tanks with the 
older style valves.

 

I was in the forklift business when the OPV valve was introduced, and my 
recollection is that the valve I have is legal for motive power and marine use 
so no change in the valves is required.

 

Does anyone have definitive experience with the valve issue, or can you point 
me to where the requirements are published?

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

  


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Re: Stus-List Do I really need OPV Valve on LPG tanks

2013-01-23 Thread Terry
Here is response the Webber BBQ manufacturer provided me when I complained of a 
malfunctioning OPV valve:

Hello,

Thank you for choosing Weber! I'm sorry for the gas flow issues you are having 
with your Genesis E-330 gas grill. If the grill is having intermittent problems 
with lighting, possibly the safety device in the regulator may have been 
activated.

Since 1995 all regulators (the part that attaches to the gas tank to regulate 
the flow of gas) have included a safety device that restricts the flow of gas 
in the event of a gas leak. This safety device can be inadvertently activated 
in two ways, putting the grill into what is commonly called "bypass". The first 
way for the device to be activated is to leave one or more burner control knobs 
in the "ON" position when the LP cylinder valve is opened. The second is not to 
wait long enough to "start" the grill after opening the LP cylinder valve.

The safety device in the regulator is activated each time that the LP cylinder 
valve is opened. The device resets itself when the gas pressure equalizes 
between the closed burner control valve and the regulator, through the hose. If 
a burner control knob is turned on before the gas pressure can equalize, the 
device will remain in "bypass". The length of time necessary to wait to "start" 
the grill after turning on the LP cylinder valve is dependent on the length of 
the hose and outside air temperature. It is always good practice to wait at 
least 60 to 90 seconds after opening the LP cylinder valve before turning on 
the burner control knob to start the grill.

Keep in mind that the safety device reacts to a gas leak. If a grill is in 
bypass, the gas connections and hose should be tested for leaks with a soap and 
water solution.

If the grill is in bypass, after checking for gas leaks do the following to get 
the grill out of bypass:

Close the LP tank valve
Turn all burner control knobs to the OFF position
Open the grill lid
Allow the grill to reset for at least 1 minute
Turn the LP tank valve until it is completely open
Wait 60 to 90 seconds
Turn the front/leftmost burner to the HI/Start position (at 9 o'clock position 
if control knobs are on top right, HI/Start facing straight-up if control knobs 
run across front of grill)
Press the igniter until the burner is lit.
Turn remaining burners to High (If control knobs run across front of grill, 
turn each knob to HI/Start and light with igniter button individually)
Close the lid.
The grill should preheat to 500-550 degrees in 10-15 minutes

NOTE: Cold weather can delay the time it takes to equalize the pressure.

When you are done grilling:

-Turn all burner control knobs to the OFF position
-Turn off the LP tank valve last

I hope this information is useful. If you have additional questions or 
comments, please do not hesitate to contact me. If replying via email, please 
leave this message intact as it will help us to respond faster. Our customer 
service hot line at 1-800-446-1071 is open 7 days a week 7:00 am - 9:00 pm CST.

Terry Johnson

From: Frederick G Street 
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 12:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Do I really need OPV Valve on LPG tanks

On Jan 23, 2013, at 1:54 PM, Fred Hazzard  wrote:


  Assuming I get a OPV valve, how is that going to effect the  operation of my 
propane stove and water heater?  The water heater is a demand system that 
lights when water flows.

I switched over the valves on my system a few years back, and have seen no 
difference in the way things work.  I'm not quite sure why someone would have 
problems; the ONLY thing the OPV valve does is keep the tank from being 
over-filled, sort of like a relief valve, but based on the actual propane level 
in the tank, not the pressure.


  Another question;  can I get the clear fiber glass tanks that are tall and 
narrow to fit the locker?

I've only seen the 10- and 20-lb tanks in the fiberglass.


  Still; another question;  how and where do I get a tank recertified?


You should be able to take them to any major propane distributor; they can 
change out the old valves to OPV, and should be able to advise you on where to 
get re-certified (assuming they can't handle that themselves).  But by the tim 
you pay to replace the valve AND re-certify the tank, a new tank might be the 
better option.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(




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Re: Stus-List Hydronic Heating System

2013-01-28 Thread Terry
I have heard the fans that move the air around the coils pull a lot of amps. 
May want to check it out...

Terry J

From: Tom Buscaglia 
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 10:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Hydronic Heating System

I am looking to add heat to Alera.   I have decided that a hydronic system is 
the way to go as it will have the added advantage of hot water while at anchor. 
 I have pretty much settled on the 
Webasto TSL17 http://www.suremarineservice.com/TSL17SW-12.aspx  

Has anyone on the list had one of these units or installed a hydronic system 
(especially in a 37+!). 

Suggestions or general thoughts on this, of course, welcome.
Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com





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Re: Stus-List refrigeration - icemaker?

2013-02-18 Thread Terry
Fred, By installing an alluvial fan, you will drop the precipitation loss 
between the freezer and the frig by the difference in the temperature fleeb. 
This may not sound like much of a savings, but over the period of 12 hours 
your fleeb to current ratio will be substantial. Hope this helps...T


-Original Message- 
From: Fred Hazzard

Sent: Monday, February 18, 2013 10:51 AM
To: w...@wbryant.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List refrigeration - icemaker?

Wally:

Please write a little more about what I could gain by having a fan.   I have
a thermostatically controlled set of louvered doors between the refer and
freezer.  The refer stays cold and freezer works.  Do you think I would gain
some efficiencies by adding a fan.  I wired for a muffin fan but did not
install one.  While cruising in the summer in the NW I use about 50 to 60 AH
per day.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Wally
Bryant
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2013 8:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List refrigeration - icemaker?

My 2 cents:  The insulation is more important than the compressor
system, if you're looking for energy efficiency.   I have the Frigoboat
system, and absolutely love it, but also believe that the Isotherm system
operates under the same principle and doesn't have the external sintered
bronze plate.

While I probably have a ridiculously expensive fridge/freezer system (the
vacuum panels) it also works fine in Mexico in the summer when the tropical
sun is hot enough to literally (I did it) fry an egg on deck.
It probably draws 40Ah on the worst day, but normally only pulls about 25,
keeping the freezer at 10F.

I honestly think that the circulation fans
<http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/galley/pipefan/>
have a huge impact on power consumption.  Last summer I was defrosting the
freezer and the fan went from 10F to 110F with 80 percent humidity.
It wasn't the first time, but it was the last.   I didn't carry a spare
fan (you can't have a spare *everything*) so lived without it for two
months.  I was amazed at the difference in system behavior and power
consumption on the freezer side.

If building a system, I would definitely consider internal fans a valued
component.  And even if not believing it, I'd run the wire through the
insulation while adding other components like copper tubes, and just seal
the wire off with some Ancor heat shrink so the fans could be added later if
desired.

The whole refrigeration project is on my galley page:
<http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/galley/index.htm>

Wal

--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List refrigeration - icemaker?

2013-02-18 Thread Terry
I apologize. I was having fun with Fred. The fleeb and the Alluvial fan are 
fig-newtons of my imagination...T


-Original Message- 
From: Bill Coleman

Sent: Monday, February 18, 2013 12:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List refrigeration - icemaker?

OK Terry, Now I was kind of getting interested in this fan-in-the-freezer
idea, but all I can find about fleeb is that it usually means douche bag.
So, are you over my head, or just toying with us? An alluvial fan seems to
be with a high pitch, but this fleeb thing has me very puzzled. Can you
explain this a little more simply, (and please don't call me names!)
It sounds like it is raining between Fred's freezer and fridge.

Bill Coleman
C&C 39


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Terry
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2013 2:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List refrigeration - icemaker?

Fred, By installing an alluvial fan, you will drop the precipitation loss
between the freezer and the frig by the difference in the temperature fleeb.

This may not sound like much of a savings, but over the period of 12 hours
your fleeb to current ratio will be substantial. Hope this helps...T

-Original Message- 
From: Fred Hazzard

Sent: Monday, February 18, 2013 10:51 AM
To: w...@wbryant.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List refrigeration - icemaker?

Wally:

Please write a little more about what I could gain by having a fan.   I have
a thermostatically controlled set of louvered doors between the refer and
freezer.  The refer stays cold and freezer works.  Do you think I would gain
some efficiencies by adding a fan.  I wired for a muffin fan but did not
install one.  While cruising in the summer in the NW I use about 50 to 60 AH
per day.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Wally
Bryant
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2013 8:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List refrigeration - icemaker?

My 2 cents:  The insulation is more important than the compressor
system, if you're looking for energy efficiency.   I have the Frigoboat
system, and absolutely love it, but also believe that the Isotherm system
operates under the same principle and doesn't have the external sintered
bronze plate.

While I probably have a ridiculously expensive fridge/freezer system (the
vacuum panels) it also works fine in Mexico in the summer when the tropical
sun is hot enough to literally (I did it) fry an egg on deck.
It probably draws 40Ah on the worst day, but normally only pulls about 25,
keeping the freezer at 10F.

I honestly think that the circulation fans
<http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/galley/pipefan/>
have a huge impact on power consumption.  Last summer I was defrosting the
freezer and the fan went from 10F to 110F with 80 percent humidity.
It wasn't the first time, but it was the last.   I didn't carry a spare
fan (you can't have a spare *everything*) so lived without it for two
months.  I was amazed at the difference in system behavior and power
consumption on the freezer side.

If building a system, I would definitely consider internal fans a valued
component.  And even if not believing it, I'd run the wire through the
insulation while adding other components like copper tubes, and just seal
the wire off with some Ancor heat shrink so the fans could be added later if
desired.

The whole refrigeration project is on my galley page:
<http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/galley/index.htm>




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Website: www.tj622.com 



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Stus-List Apology to Henry Evans

2013-02-23 Thread Terry
To Henry Evans and all members of Stu’s list:

I apologize to Henry for directing the my harsh comments in his direction, I 
thought I was addressing Henry’s hacker.

Sincerely... 
Terry Johnson
S/V Ozymandias
E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
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Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

2013-02-27 Thread Terry
Hello, I have just installed a new fresh water pump. The new pump does not come 
on right way as it is supposed to, instead it takes 15 to 45 seconds for it to 
start. I thought it was a faulty pressure switch so I took the first new pump 
back and installed a second new pump. The same problem occurs.

Any suggestions as to what the problem may be??

Terry Johnson
S/V Ozymandias
E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
Website: www.tj622.com___
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Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

2013-02-27 Thread Terry
It is a Jabsco par-max plus 12 volt.

From: Rich Knowles 
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 2:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

What is the make and model?


Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-02-27, at 18:48, "Terry"  wrote:


Hello, I have just installed a new fresh water pump. The new pump does not come 
on right way as it is supposed to, instead it takes 15 to 45 seconds for it to 
start. I thought it was a faulty pressure switch so I took the first new pump 
back and installed a second new pump. The same problem occurs.

Any suggestions as to what the problem may be??

Terry Johnson
S/V Ozymandias
E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
Website: www.tj622.com
___
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Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

2013-02-27 Thread Terry
Model # 12884557

From: Rich Knowles 
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 3:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

There are a number of versions of this pump including some automatic. What is 
the precise model number, please!


Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-02-27, at 19:24, "Terry"  wrote:


It is a Jabsco par-max plus 12 volt.

From: Rich Knowles 
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 2:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

What is the make and model?


Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-02-27, at 18:48, "Terry"  wrote:


Hello, I have just installed a new fresh water pump. The new pump does not come 
on right way as it is supposed to, instead it takes 15 to 45 seconds for it to 
start. I thought it was a faulty pressure switch so I took the first new pump 
back and installed a second new pump. The same problem occurs.

Any suggestions as to what the problem may be??

Terry Johnson
S/V Ozymandias
E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
Website: www.tj622.com
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S/V Ozymandias
E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
Website: www.tj622.com
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Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

2013-02-27 Thread Terry
I open the faucet and the pump motor does not come on for 15 to 45 seconds...T

From: Joel Aronson 
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 5:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

Terry,

Is the problem that the motor does not come on or that it comes on but no water 
comes out?

Joel 
Sent from my iPad

On Feb 27, 2013, at 7:05 PM, Terry  wrote:


  Model # 12884557

  From: Rich Knowles 
  Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 3:40 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

  There are a number of versions of this pump including some automatic. What is 
the precise model number, please!


  Rich Knowles
  Indigo. LF38
  Halifax

  On 2013-02-27, at 19:24, "Terry"  wrote:


  It is a Jabsco par-max plus 12 volt.

  From: Rich Knowles 
  Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 2:56 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

  What is the make and model?


  Rich Knowles
  Indigo. LF38
  Halifax

  On 2013-02-27, at 18:48, "Terry"  wrote:


  Hello, I have just installed a new fresh water pump. The new pump does not 
come on right way as it is supposed to, instead it takes 15 to 45 seconds for 
it to start. I thought it was a faulty pressure switch so I took the first new 
pump back and installed a second new pump. The same problem occurs.

  Any suggestions as to what the problem may be??

  Terry Johnson
  S/V Ozymandias
  E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
  Website: www.tj622.com
  ___
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  http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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--
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  S/V Ozymandias
  E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
  Website: www.tj622.com
  ___
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  S/V Ozymandias
  E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
  Website: www.tj622.com
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Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

2013-02-28 Thread Terry
Hi, I would like to thank everyone for their comments regarding the water pump 
issue. It was very helpful...Terry Johnson

From: Bill Coleman 
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 5:53 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

Is it possible that the water is leaking back to the tank, so it has to fill 
the lines again, possibly even re-priming the pump?

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Burton
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 9:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

 

I had that problem on a Swan I used to deliver; you turn on the faucet then 
wait for the water. ..drove me up the wall, but never did figure out what was 
the problem. Maybe a good idea to call Jabsco and talk to a tech, they must 
have had that problem before. When you find out, please share with us.
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 8:31 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:

Terry,

 

Is the problem that the motor does not come on or that it comes on but no water 
comes out?

Joel

Sent from my iPad


On Feb 27, 2013, at 7:05 PM, Terry  wrote:

  Model # 12884557

   

  From: Rich Knowles 

  Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 3:40 PM

  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

  Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

   

  There are a number of versions of this pump including some automatic. What is 
the precise model number, please!

  Rich Knowles

  Indigo. LF38

  Halifax


  On 2013-02-27, at 19:24, "Terry"  wrote:

  It is a Jabsco par-max plus 12 volt.

   

  From: Rich Knowles 

  Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 2:56 PM

  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

  Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

   

  What is the make and model?

  Rich Knowles

  Indigo. LF38

  Halifax


  On 2013-02-27, at 18:48, "Terry"  wrote:

  Hello, I have just installed a new fresh water pump. The new pump does not 
come on right way as it is supposed to, instead it takes 15 to 45 seconds for 
it to start. I thought it was a faulty pressure switch so I took the first new 
pump back and installed a second new pump. The same problem occurs.

   

  Any suggestions as to what the problem may be??

   

  Terry Johnson
  S/V Ozymandias
  E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
  Website: www.tj622.com

  ___
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--

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  S/V Ozymandias
  E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
  Website: www.tj622.com

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--

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  S/V Ozymandias
  E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
  Website: www.tj622.com

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-- 
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61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260 




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Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

2013-02-28 Thread Terry
Rich, I received several potential issues that I need to check out. Air in the 
lines, accumulator issues, possible wiring. I will look into all of them, and 
if all else fails, I will call Jabsco. I may call Jabsco first.

...Terry

From: Rich Knowles 
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 10:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

So what happened?


Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-02-28, at 14:07, "Terry"  wrote:


Hi, I would like to thank everyone for their comments regarding the water pump 
issue. It was very helpful...Terry Johnson

From: Bill Coleman 
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 5:53 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

Is it possible that the water is leaking back to the tank, so it has to fill 
the lines again, possibly even re-priming the pump?

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Burton
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 9:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

 

I had that problem on a Swan I used to deliver; you turn on the faucet then 
wait for the water. ..drove me up the wall, but never did figure out what was 
the problem. Maybe a good idea to call Jabsco and talk to a tech, they must 
have had that problem before. When you find out, please share with us.
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 8:31 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:

Terry,

 

Is the problem that the motor does not come on or that it comes on but no water 
comes out?

Joel

Sent from my iPad


On Feb 27, 2013, at 7:05 PM, Terry  wrote:

  Model # 12884557

   

  From: Rich Knowles 

  Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 3:40 PM

  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

  Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

   

  There are a number of versions of this pump including some automatic. What is 
the precise model number, please!

  Rich Knowles

  Indigo. LF38

  Halifax


  On 2013-02-27, at 19:24, "Terry"  wrote:

  It is a Jabsco par-max plus 12 volt.

   

  From: Rich Knowles 

  Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 2:56 PM

  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

  Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

   

  What is the make and model?

  Rich Knowles

  Indigo. LF38

  Halifax


  On 2013-02-27, at 18:48, "Terry"  wrote:

  Hello, I have just installed a new fresh water pump. The new pump does not 
come on right way as it is supposed to, instead it takes 15 to 45 seconds for 
it to start. I thought it was a faulty pressure switch so I took the first new 
pump back and installed a second new pump. The same problem occurs.

   

  Any suggestions as to what the problem may be??

   

  Terry Johnson
  S/V Ozymandias
  E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
  Website: www.tj622.com

  ___
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61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260 



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Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

2013-03-06 Thread Terry
Hi, I know all of you C&C owners are on the edge of your seats wondering how 
the continuing saga of the Terry Johnson ‘delayed start water pump issue’ was 
going to be resolved. At last, with the generous and knowledgeable help of 
Frank Noragon, we have found the problem to be in the faucet itself! I 
purchased new faucets from Home Depot around the time I replaced my water pump. 
The new faucet has a backflow restrictor in the form of a spring loaded ball 
that requires about 40 to 50 pounds pressure to open. This was found by taking 
the faucet apart and looking at how it was constructed.

The faucet was identified as the problem by disconnecting the output side of 
the pump, insuring it ran correctly when turned off and on many times, and then 
connecting the pump directly to the cold water intake of the faucet. The pump 
then did not operate in a timely manner, it had a delayed start of 10 to 60 
seconds. I am purchasing a new faucet as I was not able to get the old one to 
operate correctly once the spring was removed.

I would like to thank Frank for his help in troubleshooting the problem. Frank 
also taught me a new trick on how to remove a water pump hose from a barbed 
connector. Previously, I had been cutting the hose to remove the connectors. 
Frank brought along a heat gun and we would heat the hose at the barbed end of 
the fitting for about 60 to 90 seconds. After the hose was heated, it would 
easily pull free from the barbed connector.
What a wonderful bunch of guys we have on the C&C site.
Thanks again Frank
...Terry Johnson
From: Terry 
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 11:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

Rich, I received several potential issues that I need to check out. Air in the 
lines, accumulator issues, possible wiring. I will look into all of them, and 
if all else fails, I will call Jabsco. I may call Jabsco first.

...Terry

From: Rich Knowles 
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 10:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

So what happened?


Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-02-28, at 14:07, "Terry"  wrote:


Hi, I would like to thank everyone for their comments regarding the water pump 
issue. It was very helpful...Terry Johnson

From: Bill Coleman 
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 5:53 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

Is it possible that the water is leaking back to the tank, so it has to fill 
the lines again, possibly even re-priming the pump?

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Burton
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 9:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

 

I had that problem on a Swan I used to deliver; you turn on the faucet then 
wait for the water. ..drove me up the wall, but never did figure out what was 
the problem. Maybe a good idea to call Jabsco and talk to a tech, they must 
have had that problem before. When you find out, please share with us.
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 8:31 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:

Terry,

 

Is the problem that the motor does not come on or that it comes on but no water 
comes out?

Joel

Sent from my iPad


On Feb 27, 2013, at 7:05 PM, Terry  wrote:

  Model # 12884557

   

  From: Rich Knowles 

  Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 3:40 PM

  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

  Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

   

  There are a number of versions of this pump including some automatic. What is 
the precise model number, please!

  Rich Knowles

  Indigo. LF38

  Halifax


  On 2013-02-27, at 19:24, "Terry"  wrote:

  It is a Jabsco par-max plus 12 volt.

   

  From: Rich Knowles 

  Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 2:56 PM

  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

  Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start

   

  What is the make and model?

  Rich Knowles

  Indigo. LF38

  Halifax


  On 2013-02-27, at 18:48, "Terry"  wrote:

  Hello, I have just installed a new fresh water pump. The new pump does not 
come on right way as it is supposed to, instead it takes 15 to 45 seconds for 
it to start. I thought it was a faulty pressure switch so I took the first new 
pump back and installed a second new pump. The same problem occurs.

   

  Any suggestions as to what the problem may be??

   

  Terry Johnson
  S/V Ozymandias
  E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
  Website: www.tj622.com

  ___
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  Terry Johnson
  S/V Ozymandia

Re: Stus-List St - Defender's Warehouse Sale Online Now

2013-03-21 Thread Terry
They won’t do that anymore. I asked them to match a Defender price a week ago 
and they said they no longer will match Defender...Terry Johnson

From: Fred Hazzard 
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2013 11:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List St - Defender's Warehouse Sale Online Now

Don’t forget that West will match sale price and no shipping cost.

 

Fred Hazzard

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2013 5:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List St - Defender's Warehouse Sale Online Now

 

I did some shopping last night.  I'm waiting to check out until my new billing 
cycle starts.  Most of the stuff I wanted was only reduced by about 6% off the 
regular prices, but its waay cheaper than West!  Is funny that West is running 
daily specials this week.  I bet their web traffic is down due to the sale.

 

Joel

 

On Thu, Mar 21, 2013 at 8:14 AM, djhaug...@juno.com  wrote:

It's that time of year again!

 

http://www.defender.com/warehouse-sale.htm

 

Danny

Lolita

1973 Viking 33

Westport Point, MA


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301 541 8551 




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Re: Stus-List Autopilots

2013-03-23 Thread Terry
I installed a Raymarine X-5 wheel pilot on my C&C 34 two years ago. I also have 
the wireless remote control. Both work Flawlessly. I installed the wheel pilot 
myself and it took about a day...Terry Johnson

From: Edd Schillay 
Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2013 9:02 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Autopilots

Listers, 

Last year, during the voyage to the C&C Mystic Rendezvous, I discovered my 20+ 
year-old Robertson Autopilot wasn't working. Before I take on the task of 
disconnecting, shipping and paying for servicing, I'm also considering 
replacing it with a newer energy-saving and efficient modern option. 

I see Raymarine sells a SPX-5 p70 system for around $1,500. 

What do you use on your boats? Any thing that I should be aware of?



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log








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Stus-List Feathering a Max-prop

2013-03-26 Thread Terry
How do you feather a max-prop?

A friend of mine says he:
  1.. While motoring forward at 3 knots, shuts off the motor
  2.. Places the transmission into reverse to feather the prop
That’s it, that’s what he does. He leaves the transmission in reverse.

I do the following:
  1.. While motoring forward at 3 knots, shut off the motor
  2.. Place the transmission into reverse for 20 seconds to feather the prop
  3.. Place the transmission in neutral
According to my friend, leaving the transmission in reverse keeps the prop 
feathered and keeps the driveshaft from rotating.

Any thoughts on this??


Terry Johnson
S/V Ozymandias
E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
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Re: Stus-List Feathering a Max-prop

2013-03-26 Thread Terry
I have a Yanmar...T

From: Joel Aronson 
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 11:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Feathering a Max-prop

Terry, 

We had a similar discussion last year.  Do you have a Yanmar?  I put mine in 
reverse, then neutral, but either is acceptable according to Yanmar so long as 
you have a folding/feathering prop.  The shaft should not rotate regardless.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis



On Tue, Mar 26, 2013 at 2:05 PM,  wrote:

  I use the same shut down procedure (suggested by Max prop) and leave the 
transmission in reverse.

  Jack Fitzgerald
  C&C 39TM
  HONEY
  US12788

  In a message dated 3/26/2013 2:02:59 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
tj...@comcast.net writes:
How do you feather a max-prop?

A friend of mine says he:
  1.. While motoring forward at 3 knots, shuts off the motor
  2.. Places the transmission into reverse to feather the prop
That’s it, that’s what he does. He leaves the transmission in reverse.

I do the following:
  1.. While motoring forward at 3 knots, shut off the motor
  2.. Place the transmission into reverse for 20 seconds to feather the prop
  3.. Place the transmission in neutral
According to my friend, leaving the transmission in reverse keeps the prop 
feathered and keeps the driveshaft from rotating.

Any thoughts on this??


Terry Johnson
S/V Ozymandias
E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
Website: www.tj622.com



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301 541 8551 



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Re: Stus-List Feathering a Max-prop

2013-03-26 Thread Terry
Thanks...T

From: Joel Aronson 
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 11:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Feathering a Max-prop

Terry, 

We had a similar discussion last year.  Do you have a Yanmar?  I put mine in 
reverse, then neutral, but either is acceptable according to Yanmar so long as 
you have a folding/feathering prop.  The shaft should not rotate regardless.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis



On Tue, Mar 26, 2013 at 2:05 PM,  wrote:

  I use the same shut down procedure (suggested by Max prop) and leave the 
transmission in reverse.

  Jack Fitzgerald
  C&C 39TM
  HONEY
  US12788

  In a message dated 3/26/2013 2:02:59 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
tj...@comcast.net writes:
How do you feather a max-prop?

A friend of mine says he:
  1.. While motoring forward at 3 knots, shuts off the motor
  2.. Places the transmission into reverse to feather the prop
That’s it, that’s what he does. He leaves the transmission in reverse.

I do the following:
  1.. While motoring forward at 3 knots, shut off the motor
  2.. Place the transmission into reverse for 20 seconds to feather the prop
  3.. Place the transmission in neutral
According to my friend, leaving the transmission in reverse keeps the prop 
feathered and keeps the driveshaft from rotating.

Any thoughts on this??


Terry Johnson
S/V Ozymandias
E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
Website: www.tj622.com



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301 541 8551 



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Re: Stus-List Fw: Poly Glo removal

2013-03-29 Thread Terry
When you use easy-off to remove boat name lettering, is there any sanding 
required when the lettering is paint?

...Terry

From: Persuasion 
Sent: Friday, March 29, 2013 9:42 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Fw: Poly Glo removal

Fred

When I gave up on PolyGlo we used Easy Off oven cleaner to remove it completely.

Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Fred Hazzard 
Sent: Friday, March 29, 2013 12:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Poly Glo removal

I am needing to remove stained Poly Glo.  I have some liquid to remove it, but 
if I need more I recall that someone on our list gave a homemade solution.  

 

Any suggestions what I should use?

 

Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury

C&C 44

Portland Or 




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Re: Stus-List Race video

2013-04-11 Thread Terry
Does anyone know if Camelot is a Hunter 54?...Terry

From: Joel Aronson 
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2013 7:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Race video

Here is the tactician's post on Sailing Anarchy: 
I take responsibility on a number of levels here.  While we had a bail out plan 
up to 12 seconds before the start, the other boat came up to below our line 
after having a WL situation with another boat, and then they laid on a matching 
course below us, opening the door wide for a boat-end start.


My biggest mistake was not learning from his erratic movement with the other 
boat and not anticipating possible aggravated movement from him later. BBR is 
definitely a cruisers’ regatta and while it is meant to be laid back, there are 
always folks that know just enough to be dangerous, and they are often pushing 
to show they’re real racers.   I’ve been racing for my entire life and I should 
know this kind of thing will happen; I should be looking out for erratic 
drivers, giving my own developing helmsperson extra time and information to 
deal with the head-to-wind, take-him-to-the-moon type, that are looking to 
prove a point.  I saw the signs of him coming up aggressively, and even though 
he did not warn us, I should have anticipated it.


For those watching the video, remember that it’s a fisheye lens on a gimbal; it 
exaggerates angles depending on where the subject is.  When Camelot turns up, 
we turn up as well, but they turn up a lot faster, luffing their jib in the 
process, just before first contact.  And for others of you who haven’t read any 
of the accounts; NO, you never try to find off a semi truck.  My legs were 
broken when I was knocked off my feet, sliding down the aft deck with my lower 
legs getting over the rail at just the wrong time.   The end of Camelot’s hip 
check squashed them.


Rules are there for a reason, and perceptions of time and opportunity change 
quite a bit with experience. The biggest lesson for me?  You must ALWAYS know 
your own crew and skipper’s abilities, and you must always try to stay ahead 
mentally of your competition – especially when they are carrying kayaks on 
deck. There are lots of reasons to be ‘on guard’ when racing big boats with and 
against infrequent racers…and I should have been far more on my guard.  A 
painful lesson that I hope everyone learns from.  On a positive note, imagine 
how much more time I have to check out Sailing Anarchy now!


Thank you all for the many well wishes, and I’m looking forward to seeing many 
of you at Vallarta YC over the next few weeks; first for WesMex and then 
MexORC.  It really is one of the best racing venues anywhere in the worl



On Thu, Apr 11, 2013 at 8:31 AM, dwight veinot  
wrote:

  That is why it might be a good idea that when posting a link in an email the
  poster give a few words of background so we know what we are opening and
  what to look for

  Dwight Veinot
  C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
  Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS



  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
  Risch
  Sent: April 11, 2013 9:05 AM
  To: Knowles Rich; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Race video

  Actually the tactician calling time fell in between the boats upon impact
  and had his legs crushed...
David F. Risch
  (401) 419-4650 cell

  -Original Message-
  From: Knowles Rich 
  Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 09:33:08
  To: 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Race video


  Not a very satisfactory crash from a raw entertainment point of view. No
  blood, flying bits or terrible cursing. Surely there is better!


  Rich Knowles
  Indigo. LF38
  Halifax

  On 2013-04-11, at 0:09, "Len Mitchell" mailto:lmitch...@barrie.ca> > wrote:




  Did anyone see the Blue Video from the Banderas Bay race/crash last month?
   
   
  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P8s2cCVEJh4&feature=player_embedded
   
   
  I would love to hear what a hard core race skipper thinks with 20/20
  hindsight. Luff and dive? Blue was 5-10 seconds early.
   
  This is better than bottom paint and barnacles we still have some snow to
  melt!
   
  Len Mitchell
  Crazy Legs
  Midland On.
  C&C 37+
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Re: Stus-List Stowing stuff on your boat

2013-04-17 Thread Terry
Key in ‘sailboat inventory software’ into Google and it will display 1/2 dozen 
inventory software products...T

From: Fred Hazzard 
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 10:06 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Stowing stuff on your boat

Most boaters stow all kinds of things on their boats.  I am no exception.  In 
fact my wife thinks I am pack rat.   When locating or remembering what I have 
on board became a problem I inventoried everything and wrote up a list of where 
it is stowed.  While this has helped, it is not easy to use when looking for a 
particular item since I have inventoried items by the locker where it is 
stowed.  Thus, when I want to find a particular item I have to search the 
inventory in each locker.  Creating a cross reference would help, but I find 
that task a little daunting.

 

This brings me to the point of this email.   Do any of you have a computer 
program to list and locate your stuff on board?

 

Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury

C&C 44

Portland, Or

 

 




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Stus-List Polars for a C&C 34 standard

2013-04-27 Thread Terry
Hello, does anyone have a set of polars for a C&C 34 standard?

If I may get a copy I would appreciate the gift...

Terry Johnson

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Re: Stus-List winch sizes

2012-11-29 Thread Terry
Mr. Hazzard, you will need a fleeb and carbon counter-torque attenuator to 
remove the planter ring from the dingle if you want the new rings to seat 
correctly. This shouldn’t be a problem on your C&C 44 as it has dual 
attenuators built in.

Hope this helps...Terry Johnson

From: Fred Hazzard 
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2012 2:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List winch sizes

I am thinking about replacing my Barient 36’s with some self tailing Barient 
735’s.   I am  trying to find out if the bolt pattern is the same.   Can 
someone direct me to a resource that has that kind of info?

 

Thanks

Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury

C&C 44

Portland, Or




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Stus-List 1986 33MKII

2014-03-24 Thread Terry pearson
On my 33MKII mast, the previous owner placed a nylon (or similar)slide in the 
mast track. I want to remove the "slide" track and go back to the original sail 
slides for this mast, but I cant seem to find anything telling me the proper 
size. the track appears to be able to accommodate either round slugs or flat 
slides.is this possible? I tried measuring the slide slot and it appears to be 
15/16th wide flat slide .can anyone confirm this? 

Thanks,
Confused:=)


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Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

2014-03-25 Thread Terry pearson
Its not a strong track, i wish it were. it fits inside the internal grove on my 
mast, Ive searched the internet and have not been able to identify what it is. 
its a white plastic liner that fits inside the internal mast groove. Its is 
getting brittle and has broken off several times on the lower edge, creating 
all kinds of problems. my groove is round yet has a flat groove on the outer 
edge of the internal round groove, if that makes sense. I'm at the point now 
that I'm considering ordering several flat and round slugs to see what fits. 
Dwight, I'm taking that your using flat slides, what does your mast groove look 
like?

Thanks,
Terry
On Mar 25, 2014, at 10:19 AM, dwight  wrote:

> Rick
> 
> I can hoist the main sail on my 35 MKII to within at least 2 feet of the top
> without a winch or strong track.  My main sail is equipped with polymer
> slides that measure 1.47" long by 0.87" wide by 0.31" thick, measured as
> carefully as I could with the sail rolled and pack in its bag and these work
> very well in the as manufactured aluminium track.  I also have to deal with
> the added friction involved with leading the halyard through turning blocks
> to the cockpit.  I can raise it all the way to the top without winch if I or
> someone else pulls the halyard where it exits the mast.  I cleaned and
> sanded the track in the mast at the same time as I sanded my mast a few
> years back and I don't use any lubricant on the slides.  The sail does not
> fall like the blade of a guillotine again because of friction on the halyard
> from the turning blocks but I consider that a good thing as it aids me in a
> controlled packing the sail without having to deal with all the sail laying
> on the deck to start with... I don't have lazy jacks or my Dutchman system
> installed and I usually end up packing my mainsail alone the way I like it
> done, hopefully training it to fall the same way every time.  Maybe I am
> just a very strong man for my age.
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
> Brass
> Sent: March 25, 2014 11:33 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII
> 
> Before you even think about removing the "slide" track, go on line and make
> sure it is not a Tides Marine Strong Track. 
> 
> If it is a strong track, it is one of the better upgrades that could have
> been done on your boat. Performance is far better than you will get from
> sail slugs in an internal track. I can hoist the main on my 38 to within
> about 2 feet of the top without putting the halyard on a winch. Sand if you
> let the halyard go, the sail comes down like the blade of a guillotine.
> Periodic maintenance is to flush the rack with dish soap and fresh water.
> 
> Rick Brass
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Mar 24, 2014, at 21:12, Terry pearson  wrote:
>> 
>> On my 33MKII mast, the previous owner placed a nylon (or similar)slide in
> the mast track. I want to remove the "slide" track and go back to the
> original sail slides for this mast, but I cant seem to find anything telling
> me the proper size. the track appears to be able to accommodate either round
> slugs or flat slides.is this possible? I tried measuring the slide slot and
> it appears to be 15/16th wide flat slide .can anyone confirm this? 
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Confused:=)
>> 
>> 
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Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

2014-03-25 Thread Terry pearson
Well Bill, that make perfect sense, as I couldn't figure out what type of slide 
would fit that groove. And no one at the sail club had a clue either. Ive been 
looking at those Tide Strong tracks but didn't want to cough up the money, 
looks like a have a good reason to invest in one now! Won't the wife be happy!
On Mar 25, 2014, at 12:18 PM, Bill Bina  wrote:

> That sounds like the original C&C (Cinkel) mast insert. They get brittle and 
> start cracking. Sooner or later, you may end up with a sail that will not 
> come down, because a cracked sliver has wedged against a slide. The groove in 
> that mast was not designed or shaped to be used without that insert, and the 
> insert is absolutely no longer available. If you find one used, it will be as 
> brittle as what you have. The hot setup is to replace it with a tides strong 
> track, which, as others have mentioned,  is a great upgrade. Many C&C's now 
> sport a Tides Marine Strong Track. If you are trying to spend more money, 
> Harken makes a more complicated system for 3 times the cost of the Tides that 
> does not work appreciably better.
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
> 
> On 3/25/2014 1:06 PM, Terry pearson wrote:
>> Its not a strong track, i wish it were. it fits inside the internal grove on 
>> my mast, Ive searched the internet and have not been able to identify what 
>> it is. its a white plastic liner that fits inside the internal mast groove. 
>> Its is getting brittle and has broken off several times on the lower edge, 
>> creating all kinds of problems. my groove is round yet has a flat groove on 
>> the outer edge of the internal round groove, if that makes sense. I'm at the 
>> point now that I'm considering ordering several flat and round slugs to see 
>> what fits. Dwight, I'm taking that your using flat slides, what does your 
>> mast groove look like?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Terry
>> On Mar 25, 2014, at 10:19 AM, dwight  wrote:
>> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Boom Furling complications - Yard Service quality

2015-10-30 Thread Terry via CnC-List
I am new to this email forum thing and don't want to hijack the discussion, but 
could someone tell me how to start a new topic? 
Thank you

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 30, 2015, at 1:00 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Here is a good one,
>  
> So, the yard where my new to me boat was stored for it's entire life, did 
> all, or supervised all the work on this boat.  The PO was actually an owner 
> of the yard!  I had to listen to the yard manager/partner talk about how 
> great his reputation was and how good his work is and lecture me on my 
> electrical tester and even said that my electrical crimper (yes the one Wally 
> recommended) was not correct for the task.  Now as get further and further 
> into the boat, I'm finding wire connections with nothing but tape, some 
> residential barrel connectors with not even tape over them, taped joins in 
> the bilge, hoses disconnected and left plugged off laying in the bilge, wires 
> disconnected with just tape on the end...  and this is just the superficial 
> investigation...
>  
> All the talk in the world won't make shoddy work better...  I really have a 
> hard time trusting anyone to work on my stuff either.
>  
> On the other hand, when I was still out in the field doing plumbing, I always 
> found I'd rather pull things back just a bit further and do a better job than 
> to try and patch things up and get out of there.  I really haven't met too 
> many people with that attitude.  Of course I never owned the company, I was 
> always on the payroll and I just did my best to avoid a call back.  So, I 
> guess it really as much self preservation as doing right by a customer.  That 
> and knowing that doing it right is always less of an ass ache than trying to 
> hack it...  IMHO  ...I'd let me work on my house!!  LOL
>  
> Danny
> 
> -- Original Message --
> From: mike amirault via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: mike amirault 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Furling complications - Yards
> Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 10:51:23 -0300
> 
> I agree with you Mike. The previous owner of my C&C 33II (boat was named 
> Pelagic) had most of the work done by "professionals" at one of the large 
> marinas in Halifax. Some of the repairs I have uncovered make me shake my 
> head, shoddy to say the least. I do all my own work on the boat now and it's 
> done right.
>  
> Mike Amirault
> C&C33 MKii Lovely Cruise
> St Margarets Bay
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Re: Stus-List plumbing problem

2015-10-31 Thread Terry via CnC-List
Here is a pic of the part, it is the white coupler on top of pump. I'm going to 
the boat this weekend and try to find make and model on the pump 

Thanks 
Terry Pearson
1896 C&C 33 MKII 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 30, 2015, at 9:28 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> If I may add, take pictures and make them available (DropBox, Google+, 
> OneDrive, whatever is your favourite place to share pictures). It would be 
> substantially easier to figure out what you need if others could see what is 
> broken.
>  
> Be aware that a lot of marine plumbing is common with the RVs; so you may 
> have luck visiting a local RV place (with the broken part in hand). Don’t 
> count that any fittings from a hardware store would work (different threads, 
> different diameters).
>  
> Good luck
>  
> Marek Dziedzic
> 1994 C270 “Legato”
> Ottawa, ON
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh 
> Muckley via CnC-List
> Sent: October-30-15 21:28
> To: C&C List
> Cc: Josh Muckley
> Subject: Re: Stus-List plumbing problem
>  
> Hey Terry,
> 
> Sounds like you're new to the list.  Welcome.  The plumbing systems on our 
> boats are varied in nature and not particularly C&C specific.  Your best bet 
> is to get the pump specifics (make, model, serial) and look for a discharge 
> check valve part from the manufacturer.  If you don't have any luck get back 
> to us with the specs and maybe we will be more lucky.
> 
> Warm regards,
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S /V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
>  
> 
> 
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Stus-List plumbing problem

2015-10-30 Thread Terry Pearson via CnC-List

>> 
>> Hello all, first, I own a 1986 C&C 33 MK2, while winterizing my boat, I 
>> found a water leak on the discharge side of my potable water pump. The 
>> fitting between the pump and the elbow was cracked. I tried to unscrew the 
>> fitting and the theads snapped off in the pump housing. i haven’t tried yet, 
>> but am pretty certain I can use an ease out to get the remaining treads out 
>> of the pump. The problem I am having is I can not find the replacement part, 
>> or even know what it is called. Its a a white plastic fitting, male threads 
>> on both ends with a ball check valve built into the fitting. any help would 
>> be greatly appreciated.

>> Terry Pearson

> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List plumbing problem

2015-10-31 Thread Terry Pearson via CnC-List
Thank you guys so much. I do believe they are Jabsco check valves. On the 
Jabsco diagram they are referred to as “ports”. 

Terry Pearson
S/V Tiki Time
1986 C&C 33 MK2
> On Oct 31, 2015, at 8:47 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Terry,
> 
> Per your original email you are referring to the WHITE fittings NOT the grey 
> ones,  correct? 
> 
> The white ones came with the pump and are the suction and discharge check 
> valves.  See my previous emails.
> 
> As others have said the grey ones are Qest.  The largest selection can be 
> found here.
> 
> https://www.plumbingsupply.com/polyb.html 
> <https://www.plumbingsupply.com/polyb.html>
> You'll probably want to bookmark the website since you're likely to need 
> these fittings in the future.  When assembling don't use any sealants.  Hand 
> tighten and then add ~1/4 turn.
> 
> Josh
> 
> On Oct 30, 2015 9:05 PM, "Terry Pearson via CnC-List"  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
>>> 
>>> Hello all, first, I own a 1986 C&C 33 MK2, while winterizing my boat, I 
>>> found a water leak on the discharge side of my potable water pump. The 
>>> fitting between the pump and the elbow was cracked. I tried to unscrew the 
>>> fitting and the theads snapped off in the pump housing. i haven’t tried 
>>> yet, but am pretty certain I can use an ease out to get the remaining 
>>> treads out of the pump. The problem I am having is I can not find the 
>>> replacement part, or even know what it is called. Its a a white plastic 
>>> fitting, male threads on both ends with a ball check valve built into the 
>>> fitting. any help would be greatly appreciated.
> 
>>> Terry Pearson
> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: Stus-List SailTimer Experiences

2019-12-19 Thread TERRY DAUDRICH via CnC-List
Hi all,

Been a lurker here for years and don't post because I don't own a C&C.
Still learn a ton of sailing and maintenance stuff tho and we have lots of
owners at our club.

Don't waste your time or money on this set up. I did and agree completely
with David's comments. The latest unit has a replacement battery. Why do
you think that is.? It's because they are very poor at charging up,
holding a charge, and communicating even when standing on the pier with a
direct line of sight to it.

My wind cup bearings didn't last 2 weeks. " We have no way of knowing if it
has been in storms " was there response. Really So this unit can't take
storm force winds now? They sent me a rebuild kit. Great, I just have to
climb my mast mid season to unbolt and rebuild it. After listening to it
growl away it came down for good.

Check out there responses to problems. Almost always the owners fault.

Cheers,
Terry D
Gimli YC
Lake Winnipeg


On Wed., Dec. 18, 2019, 8:56 p.m. Randy Stafford via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers-
>
> Have any of you used products from SailTimer, e.g. their SailTimer App and
> SailTimer Wind Instrument?  If so, I’d appreciate hearing about your
> experiences with the products and the company.
>
> The company is based in Halifax, Nova Scotia, and headed by Craig
> Summers.  Anybody on this list know him, or other employees of the company?
>
> Thank You,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole end fittings

2020-03-13 Thread TERRY DAUDRICH via CnC-List
Put a tie wrap around the trigger projection that's inside the jaws to hold
it triggered and now your back to a standard set up. Now you'll both types
to choose from. Some wipping or lashing would probably work also and be
easy to change back.

On Fri., Mar. 13, 2020, 4:08 p.m. Bruno Lachance via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I don't post a lot but i've been following this list for over 10 years now.
>
> I need your help today, especcially looking for experience bowman feedback
> and advice.
>
> I'm in the market for a spinnaker pole for ou 33-2 and i have to choose
> between "standard" end fittings, like the UXP Forespar or Selden and the
> UTR from Forespar or what we could call a "trigger" fitting.
>
> My experience is more with asymetrical kites so i dont really have an
> opinion on one versus the other. we usually sail short handed and club race
> with a small crew, the UTR fitting seems nice and modern but is there any
> downside ? like is there a risk i will need to fight with it if it doesn't
> want to trigger on the sheet\guy  in very light air when there is not a lot
> of tension on the ropes?
>
> Are those trigger fittings really a plus or should i go classic?
>
> My only spinnaker is a light-medium air A2. i have a ring car on the mast.
> My plan is to go with end for end gybing.
>
> Thank you for your knowledge on that subject.
>
>
>
> Bruno Lachance
> Bécassine, 33-2 #166
> New-Richmond, Qc
>
>
>
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Stus-List Please remove me from the cnc list

2019-06-24 Thread Terry Pennock via CnC-List
Please remove me from the cnc-list.

We have sold our boat.
The list can provide very useful information and assistance for C&C owners

Thanks in advance.

Terry
IMS Island Microsystems Ltd
250 287-9874
www.islandmicro.com
[Imslogo320-200][Apps]

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