Stus-List C&C 37+ Shower Valve

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Does anyone know how to get to back of the shower valve to remove it?  It
looked like taking off the darker gray trim piece that runs around the
shower might give access.  I didn't want to remove this if there is another
way.  

 

Thanks,

 

Ron Ricci

Patriot

Bristol, RI

   

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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Len,

 

I did pull out the box cupboard and there is a bulkhead that blocks access
on my boat.  However, I could cut an access panel that would be hidden.

 

Thanks for your help,

 

Ron

 

From: Len Mitchell [mailto:len.mitch...@barrie.ca] 
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 3:42 PM
To: 'ron.ri...@1968.usna.com'
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: C&C 37+

 

Ron, It's a long reach but if you take the little box cupboard out, I think
it was 2 or 4 screws and the whole thing comes out, you can see behind the
shower. It's been a long time and I am not 100% sure you can reach there but
worth a look. The previous owner had to repair a broken pipe there once.
Much easier than swapping out the holding tank! Attached a picture of the
cupboard in the aft cabin. 

 

Len Mitchell

CRAZY LEGS

1989 37+

Midland On. 

 


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Re: Stus-List Isla Mujeras Regata al Sol

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bob,

 

Good idea!  The plate on my 37/40 corroded so badly that the idler pulleys
moved enough to slacken the steering cables.  I’m in the middle of replacing
mine.

 

I have a similar plate to that shown by Wally Bryant.  Mine is sandwiched
between the cockpit sole and pedestal.  Edson has a replacement part
(776-4AL) which has the backing plate made of mild steel and another with an
anodized aluminum backing plate.  The former is 1/8” thick while the latter
is ½” thick.  I had to use the mild steel version.  If you yours looks like
Wally’s, you could use the anodized aluminum plate version.

 

I’m also rebuilding the pedestal (steering shaft bearings) and wheel brake
(shoes).  Edson has kits for these.  Their customer support is very helpful
and probably has a file for your boat.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

From: Robert Boyer [mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com] 
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2014 1:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Isla Mujeras Regata al Sol

 

Could someone provide a brief diagram or picture of the plate below the
pedestal that corrodes.  I'm not sure that my LF38 has the same construction
but I want to check for this on my boat since it is 31 years old and I plan
to head offshore in 2 years...thanks!

 

Bob

Bob Boyer

S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD

1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230

email: dainyr...@icloud.com 

blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

 

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

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Re: Stus-List "Jumpy" Readings -- Sender or Gauge?

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Edd,

 

Ditto on likely being a sender problem.  I replaced mine with an electronic one 
that had no moving parts and claimed to be free of being ‘jumpy’.  
Unfortunately, it stopped working after a couple of months.  Amazon 
http://www.amazon.com/Moeller-Marine-Electric-Sending-Tanks/dp/B000MTI15K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8
 

 &qid=1402160579&sr=8-3&keywords=marine+fuel+tank+sending+unit and West Marine 
http://www.westmarine.com/moeller--electric-fuel-gauge-sending-units--P006_180_003_536
 have replacements which get mixed reviews including bouncing around.  My tank 
is about 90% full by eye so as long as there is wind, I’ll  be looking for 
other options.

 

My tank (1991 C&C 37+) is 9-1/2” deep and the sender is 240-33 ohms.

 

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: Rich Knowles [mailto:r...@sailpower.ca] 
Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2014 11:22 AM
To: Edd Schillay; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List "Jumpy" Readings -- Sender or Gauge?

 

Very likely a sender problem. The resistance winding in the sender is fine wire 
which comes loose on the form. Suggest removing the sender and having a crack 
at repairing it. Your problem could also be a loose connection at the sender. 

Rich


On Jun 7, 2014, at 11:45, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:

Listers,

 

The original fuel gauge on the Enterprise is very “jumpy” — 
bouncing back and forth from 1/2 tank to 3/4 tank and everywhere in between. 

 

In your experience, is this a sender problem or a gauge one? 

 

   All the best,

 

   Edd

 

 

   Edd M. Schillay

   Starship Enterprise

   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

   City Island, NY 

   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
 

 

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Re: Stus-List Planning trip to S. New England- need advice from locals

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

The Herreshoff Museum is in Bristol, RI.  There are several good restaurants
on or near the waterfront.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: kelly petew [mailto:kellype...@msn.com] 
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2014 10:50 AM
To: cnc-list
Subject: Stus-List Planning trip to S. New England- need advice from locals

 

I'm planning a trip to southern New England next month [not by boat].
Naturally, I'm most interested in the sailing attractions, such as Newport,
Mystic Seaport, and the like. 
At this point, I'm thinking of renting a car in Providence and exploring as
many places as I can over a 5-day period.  
I'd like to do one of the harbor cruises on a 12 meter as well as enjoy
local cuisine.  Beyond these, I don't have much else on my to-do list. 
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.  
 
thanks,
 
Pete W.
 
Siren Song
'91 C&C 30-2
Deltaville, VA
 

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Re: Stus-List Play in the steering

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Dave,

 

Same thing happened to me.  My cables came so loose they actually fell off
the radial wheel.  The problem was the idler pulleys under the pedestal.
They mount on a plate which was made of mild steel.  The plate corroded so
badly the pulleys moved enough to loosen the cables.  I replaced my plate
with the same Edson part.  Edson also has a newer part with a stainless
steel plate.  Unfortunately for a 37+, it would not fit.  Check with Edson,
their tech support is first class.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

Ps.  My cables were in perfect condition.

 

  _  

On Jul 14, 2014, at 10:41 AM, David Jacobs via CnC-List
 wrote:





After picking up our mooring and locking the wheel I felt something
"banging". I quickly found that the source was the rudder moving side to
side as the boat swung on the mooring. I went down below and found that the
steering cables were fairly slack and there was quite a bit of play, hence
the back and forth movement. The top of the emergency tiller post was also
moving not symmetrically within it's fitting as though the bearings around
the rudder post weren't tight (something to do in the fall) It seems like
there should be a pulley attached to a spring (an idler) to provide a
calibrated pull on the cables and take up the slack. If that is not the
answer then how tight should the cables be? I haven't dived into it yet but
when I do is there an obvious way to shorten the steering cables?

 

Dave

Saltaire C&C 35 MK3

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Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Edd,

 

What kind of current reading do you have on each battery when charging?
I've never seen 13.7 on my boat.  

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

 

From: Edd Schillay [mailto:e...@schillay.com] 
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 2:13 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

 

Listers,

 

Lately, when the engine running, I'm seeing the voltage reach
13.2 tops when it used to be much higher (13.7 to 14.0). 

 

Is this an alternator issue or is it the belt tightness? Any
suggestions would be much appreciated.

 

   All the best,

 

   Edd

 

 

   Edd M. Schillay

   Starship Enterprise

   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

   City Island, NY 

 Starship Enterprise's
Captain's Log

 

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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Stu,

 

Congratulations!  After years of putting off seeing an ophthalmologist, I made 
an appointment this spring.  I had cataracts in both eyes and mild astigmatism. 
 Just as you describe, fixing this was easy.  Now, with ‘bionic’ lens, I can 
both read a chart and keep a good lookout for other C&C’s.

 

It is truly amazing what can be done to improve one’s vision .  It all starts 
with an eye exam.  

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

   

 

From: Stu [mailto:stumurra...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2014 9:50 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Eye can see a C&C

 

Late last year, I was diagnosed as having severe cataracts in both eyes and 
they were 'ripe' for surgery.

After months' of waiting, I have had the cataracts removed from both eyes and 
new lens inserted.  Approximately 30 minutes per surgery and a wait of several 
weeks between each.

Multiple visits to the doctor for follow-ups and gallons of drops in each eye 
-- I think my brain is getting water logged.

But the good thing about it all -- after close to 60 years of wearing glasses, 
I now have better than 20/25 vision in both eyes.  Still need glasses for 
reading and won't get them prescribed for another 4-6 weeks.  At the same time, 
I should have the prescribed glasses restriction removed from my driver's 
license.

I can't believe how beautiful everything looks and the amount of detail that I 
have missed.

If you have cataracts, get them looked after as soon as possible -- you will be 
surprised at how beautiful your C&C really looks. 

 

Stu

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Re: Stus-List Dingy Repair

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Brian,

 

I used the stuff from West Marine
(http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--inflatable-boat-sealant--444679)
a few months ago.  It works great!  My dinghy had a slow leak and required
pumping up every few weeks.  It has been two months since inflating my
dinghy and I have not had to use the pump. 

 

You do have to follow the directions and keep turning the dinghy over
(fore/aft & port/starboard) to coat the interior.  The liquid can be poured
in through the fill connections.  I have a West Marine dinghy which has
three capped connections with removable inserts that are used to let the air
out.  They should be removed to fill the dinghy with the sealant.

 

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

From: Brian Morrison [mailto:brianm...@hotmail.com] 
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2014 1:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Dingy Repair

 

Hello fellow CnCer's,

 

I have a mercury inflatable dingy. It has been a challenge ever since I
purchased it. Dealing with keeping it clean, managing it at the marina (no
dingy racks), repairs, etc. has not been fun. My current issue is a slow
leak in the forward seam. I have read about a sealer that can be inserted
through the air hole and is supposed to seal the seam from the inside.
Several questions: has anyone had any experience with this repair, how do
you get the sealant into the air hole (it seems to be too small to pour it
in), do you have to remove the air intake valve, does it work, what is the
best product and where can I get it? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks.

 

Brian

 

Brian C. Morrison

S/V Rekofa, The Blue Whale

1979 C&C 34

Baltimore, MD

 

 

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Re: Stus-List new fresh water pump suggestions

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Ken,

 

Do you know how much current this pump draws when it is on but not pumping 
water?

Thanks,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: Ken Heaton [mailto:kenhea...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 7, 2015 11:47 AM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard; dre...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List new fresh water pump suggestions

 

Would you consider one of these?  SHURflo EXTREME™ Smart Sensor™ 4.0 Fresh 
Water Pump

 

We have one and I really like it.  The variable speed feature is what makes it 
a great pump.  If you run the tap slowly the pump just ticks over slowly too so 
is very quiet, almost silent, especially appreciated at night when someone is 
sleeping.

 

http://shurflo.com/marine-products/fresh-water-pumps/extreme-series-pumps/8-extreme-smart-sensor-4-0-fresh-water-pump-12vdc

 

The Smart Sensor™ 4.0 is designed specifically for cruisers and midsize yachts. 
Delivering 4.0 GPM and pressure up to 50 PSI, this micro-controller based 
variable speed pump precisely monitors your system’s water pressure and adjusts 
the motor speed, eliminating the need for a pressure switch.

SHURFLO® engineered the Smart Sensor™ 4.0 with a superior four-chamber design 
that incorporates large inlet and outlet passages to maximize water flow and 
efficiency, providing a “Just Like Home” shower and quiet operation.

 

Ken H.

 

C&C 37 XL Salazar

 

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Re: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Edd,

 

You are a lucky guy!  Do you have any photos showing how your existing Octopus 
cylinder is mounted?

 

I have all Raymarine equipment and the EV-200 looks pretty neat.  It seems like 
many of us that own 37+’s are either upgrading or looking at installing 
autopilots.

 

Thanks,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

  

 

From: Edd Schillay [mailto:e...@schillay.com] 
Sent: Thursday, October 8, 2015 5:56 PM
To: C&C List
Subject: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations

 

Listers,

 

My wife is considering buying me an autopilot system for my 50th (YIKES!) 
birthday next year to replace our failing Robertson unit. She saw the video 
from the 2015 Northeast Rendezvous of Nader sitting in his cockpit eating lunch 
while the boat drove itself to Clinton and said “Oh you gotta have that!” 

 

The Octopus hydraulic drive is already installed and I’m somewhat partial to 
the Raymarine EV-200 system (and Fred Street has pretty good pricing), but 
wanted to see if anyone else has recommendations on units I should look at. 

 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  

 









   

 






 

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Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Joel,

 

I’ve used butyl tape for a deck hatch, baby stay track and pedestal guard deck 
mount brackets.  It did the job and remains pliable forever.  The hardest part 
of rebidding was to remove the old sealant which cracks with age.  My 
understanding is some 3M products adhere to the gelcoat better than the gelcoat 
adheres to the fiberglass.  I worked a sharpened putty knife between the item 
and the deck so as to cut the sealant.

 

Here’s a great article on using butyl tape: 
http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/bedding-deck-hardware-with-bed-it-butyl-tape.117172/#post-705340.
  It is available from http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape.

 

Good luck,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

  

 

From: Joel Aronson [mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 8:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List rebedding hatch

 

All,

 

I'll be replacing the front hatch with a Lewmar hatch.  Which sealant should I 
use?  Sikaflex, Lifecaulk, something else?

 

I need to overdrill, epoxy and redrill the new screw holes, correct?

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis



-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Vodka for Hot water tank

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

John,

 

This sounds like a great idea.  The freeze point of 80 proof vodka is -16
degrees F.  It would be a sin to waste the vodka next spring.  Here are some
vodka based nautical drink ideas:
http://www.partyswizzle.com/NauticalDrinkIdeas.html

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: John Russo [mailto:johnrussob...@optonline.net] 
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2015 8:21 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Vodka for Hot water tank

 

Any downside to putting some vodka in the hot water tank after draining as
an alternative to antifreeze which forever smells when using hot water. The
drain in not quite positioned at the bottom of the tank so there is always
some residual water left in the tank and although I leave the drain valve
open for expansion I am concerned that any freezing could damage the tank
connections. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

John

Arpeggio C&C 32

Norwalk, CT

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Re: Stus-List Boom Furling complications

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Danny,

 

I keep my boat at Bristol Marine.  They store with the mast in or out.  I
don't know what you have for a furling system, but I've seen quite a few
boats here with various boom furlers.

Thanks,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: Danny Haughey [mailto:djhaug...@juno.com] 
Sent: Thursday, October 29, 2015 3:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Boom Furling complications

 

Hi All,

 

So, it seems the yard said they cannot remove the mast because of the sail
track that rides up the mast track for the furling system.

 

I basically have two options where they are concerned.  Find another yard
for storage or, wet store the boat in a slip.

 

I don't think I would mind the wet storage option if she wasn't in such a
need for a bottom job.

 

What do you guys think?

 

The reason they cannot remove the mast is because they use a sling and the
sling would damage the track...

 

Maybe someone can recommend a place nearby where I can store her on the
hard.  i know not every yard requires the removal of the mast.

 

Danny

Westport Point, MA

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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape question

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Barbara,

 

Check out: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware for an article 
on rebedding deck hardware with butyl tape.  I found this about five years ago 
and bought several rolls of tape (see ordering instructions on last page).  My 
boat had many “roof” leaks and this worked out great.  I’ve used it for genoa & 
baby stay tracks and a deck hatch.  No leaks!  It worked for rebedding the 
holding tank access port.  No smells!

 

Thanks,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

From: Barbara Hickson Fellers [mailto:blhick...@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 7:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Butyl tape question

 

   Great to see new 33 owners. They are great sailing boats. And the Atomic 4 
is a great engine and fun to learn on. Speaking of adhesives vs. sealants, I've 
been wanting to try butyl tape. The recent floods have uncovered leaks inside 
from both handrails.  Can I use butyl tape to rebed?

 My big winter project is to fix the many small gel coat rubs, fill holes and 
put new non skid on. Finally will be getting self tailing primaries. Will also 
get the toerail stanchion bases so the old holes will have to be filled. I'm 
unsure if it's better for the boat for the deck to get a coat of gel coat 
sprayed on or each area done individually. I know what a yard would say. $ 😳. 
This is why I'd like to try butyl in case I have to rebed everything on deck. 
(And is removing everything necessary if the deck gets sprayed?? I've always 
heard if it's not leaking don't take it off. )

I leave my settee insert in the quarter earth as well frame side up against the 
inside hull. 


Thanks and welcome to our new C&C owners!  


Barbara L. Hickson

'76 C&C 33-1 "Flight Risk"

Charleston SC - a very wet place

 



Barbara L. Hickson 

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Re: Stus-List Winter discussions - depth sounder offset

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Dennis,

 

I use an offset from the transducer to the bottom of the keel so I read the 
actual depth under the keel.  This way, I can easily tell how much water is 
under the boat.  Comparing the depth shown on the instrument with that charted 
depth always requires knowing the state of the tide.  

 

Thanks,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: Dennis C. [mailto:capt...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2015 3:03 PM
To: CnClist
Subject: Stus-List Winter discussions - depth sounder offset

 

Just curious what listers use for a draft offset and why.

I use the actual offset as measured from the transducer to the bottom of the 
keel so the depth shown closely matches the charted depth.  I prefer to compare 
the depth shown on my instruments to the chart plotter rather than have to do 
the math all the time.  

I know some owners use an offset so that the instrument shows depth under keel 
while others don't use any offset at all.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Stus list Soft shackle

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

I have had reasonable success preventing the jib sheets snagging on the baby 
stay by running the baby stay through a piece of 1-1/8” ID PVC tubing about 4’ 
long.  The cap from a Davis Instruments PVC Turnbuckle Boot (about $6.00) was 
used at the top.  I happened to have the tubing, but if I did it again, a 
longer tube would be better.

 

Thanks,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

 Original message 
From: David Knecht via CnC-List  
Date: 2/17/2016 8:43 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: CnC CnC discussion list  
Cc: David Knecht  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus list Soft shackle 

I am interested in this discussion as I find the sheets routinely hang up on 
the baby stay no matter what I have tried.  I am tempted to detach the baby 
stay next season when the winds are lighter.  I went from two bowlines to two 
soft shackles and that was a bit better.  Last season I passed bitter end 
through the cringle and then through the spliced loop.  That is cleaner than 
the soft shackle but makes sail changes more complex.  Since I don’t change 
sails very often, that was not a big problem.  Any other thoughts on preventing 
hanging up appreciated.  Dave

 

Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

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Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Stu,

First, thank you for all the work you have put into setting up the list and
maintaining it.  I am glad this topic has come up.  It is somewhat difficult
to follow multiple emails which usually repeat what has already been said.
If it could be done, I'd enthusiastically vote for a forum.

The town that I live in has a social networking forum called Nextdoor
Harvard.  See https://harvardma.nextdoor.com/about_us/.  We have about 6000
residents of which about 2000 have signed up for Nextdoor Harvard.  There is
no cost to operate the forum and it is very flexible.

I get one email a day that summarizes new topics and new replies for that
day.  (One can select getting new topics as they are posted.)  If you reply
to a topic, you'll automatically get other replies as they occur.  There is
a method to control who can be a member.  You can browse by topic.  There is
provision to store documents for download and a classified section.  

If you are interested, I'll contact Nextdoor to see if they would allow a
'neighborhood' of boat owners.  I can also find out from the guy who
maintains the forum, what effort is required.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

  _  

List

On Mar 13, 2015 5:32 PM, "Stu via CnC-List"  wrote:

Recently, some of our subscribers have indicated that they would like to
have a "Forum" similar to "cruisersforum" or "sailnet" instead of an email
list (like this one).

 

PROS:

1. Eliminate the costs related to the email list

2. Follow a thread easier without having to read multiple emails.

3. Easier to find past, archived messages and threads.

4. Possible addition of public and private photo albums.

5. Easily moderated by more than one person.  Threads can be deleted and
undesirable subscribers blocked.

6. No more 20-30 emails a day.  Visit the site at your convenience and view
the latest topics since your last visit.

 

CONS:

1. Forum software runs from free to around $250 depending on additional
enhancements.

2. Might (???) require additional disk space and bandwidth on hosting site.
()

3. Installation - I've done it before and it does take some time.  And a bit
more time involved to get it tweeked to perfection.

 

Bottom line - would you rather have a FORUM or continue using this list?  It
does not matter to me.

 

Stu

 


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Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Josh,

 

Posting something new requires going online.  This ensures starts the topic.
Once you get the email notice, you can add to any topic on the notice.
You'll also get notice of other replies.  While you can keep copies of
emails, this forum really needs you to be online to use all the features.


 

I do have copies of emails on my phone but the amount of info kept is
limited without an internet connection.  I just tried putting my phone in
airplane mode and turning off Wi-Fi.  There's now nothing available in my
gmail 'All Mail'.  

 

Ron

 

From: Josh Muckley [mailto:muckl...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2015 8:03 AM
To: C&C List; Ron Ricci
Subject: Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum

 

Ron,

I understand that you get notices via email but can you participate in the
"forums" via email?

For me, the strength of the list is that I don't have to do anything above
and beyond checking/reading/sending email.  I can control the stream with
all of the traditional email routing rules.

Users might find it useful to set up a rule which automatically moves ANY
email with "cnc" in the "FROM:" field into a new folder called "C&C List".
I did this when I started using the list and now it is almost like I have 2
email addresses.  I never get C&C stuff in my main email stream.  I could
also turn off the notifications and/or sync for the C&C List folder so that
I only looked at it when I felt like it not because it kept notifying me.

Others have given directions for searching the wealth of knowledge by using
some google magic and limiting the search criteria to the cnc-list site.  I
can't recall the exact syntax. 

The emails are also kept in my email archives till I delete them.  There
have been plenty of times I've been able to answer my own questions simply
by searching my own email archives...on my phone...without internet access.

Josh

On Mar 14, 2015 7:37 AM, "Ron Ricci via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Stu,

First, thank you for all the work you have put into setting up the list and
maintaining it.  I am glad this topic has come up.  It is somewhat difficult
to follow multiple emails which usually repeat what has already been said.
If it could be done, I'd enthusiastically vote for a forum.

The town that I live in has a social networking forum called Nextdoor
Harvard.  See https://harvardma.nextdoor.com/about_us/.  We have about 6000
residents of which about 2000 have signed up for Nextdoor Harvard.  There is
no cost to operate the forum and it is very flexible.

I get one email a day that summarizes new topics and new replies for that
day.  (One can select getting new topics as they are posted.)  If you reply
to a topic, you'll automatically get other replies as they occur.  There is
a method to control who can be a member.  You can browse by topic.  There is
provision to store documents for download and a classified section.  

If you are interested, I'll contact Nextdoor to see if they would allow a
'neighborhood' of boat owners.  I can also find out from the guy who
maintains the forum, what effort is required.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

 <mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

  _  

List

On Mar 13, 2015 5:32 PM, "Stu via CnC-List"  wrote:

Recently, some of our subscribers have indicated that they would like to
have a "Forum" similar to "cruisersforum" or "sailnet" instead of an email
list (like this one).

 

PROS:

1. Eliminate the costs related to the email list

2. Follow a thread easier without having to read multiple emails.

3. Easier to find past, archived messages and threads.

4. Possible addition of public and private photo albums.

5. Easily moderated by more than one person.  Threads can be deleted and
undesirable subscribers blocked.

6. No more 20-30 emails a day.  Visit the site at your convenience and view
the latest topics since your last visit.

 

CONS:

1. Forum software runs from free to around $250 depending on additional
enhancements.

2. Might (???) require additional disk space and bandwidth on hosting site.
()

3. Installation - I've done it before and it does take some time.  And a bit
more time involved to get it tweeked to perfection.

 

Bottom line - would you rather have a FORUM or continue using this list?  It
does not matter to me.

 

Stu

 


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Re: Stus-List C&C 37plus Draft

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Danny,

 

I have a 37+ with a 7'3" draft which I keep in Bristol, RI.  So far it has
been no problem in Narragansett Bay, Block Island Cuttyhunk, Vineyard Haven
& Edgartown.  I sail with a friend in a J/30 out of Red Brook Harbor.
That's a little tight and if I brought my boat there, I'd look for either a
really calm, clear day and/or favorable tide.  

 

As far as the deep keel, the boat is extremely stable and rides well in
rough water.  With 10' waves going around Cape May, it did very well.

 

Good luck on your choice.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 



 

From: Danny Haughey [mailto:djhaug...@juno.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2015 10:45 AM
To: paradigmat...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 37plus Draft

 

Hi Guys,

 

I've got a 37plus on my radar but the draft is 7'-3"  I think that may be a
bit too deep, I don't think I'd be able to stay where I kept the Viking and
I do like that location.  I also think it may limit some harbors out on the
the islands in and around buzzard's bay...

 

Would anyone have any comments about the deep draft and it limitations
around Cape Cod, south coast and the islands?

 

Danny

Boat Shopper

South Coast Massachusetts

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Re: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Edd,

 

I owned a business that had  a Thomas & Betts TBM6 crimp tool.  It is
expensive and I don't think you'd want to buy one.  However, it is very
important to get a good crimp.  You might try finding someone who makes
custom marine cables.   

 

Ron  

 

From: Edd Schillay [mailto:e...@schillay.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2015 5:01 PM
To: C&C List
Subject: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

 

Listers,

 

Does anyone have a good recommendation for a tool (or tools) for cutting and
for crimping terminals onto #6 and/or #4 battery cable? 

 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  

 









   

 






 

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Re: Stus-List New instruments?

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Chuck,

 

Ditto on Fred's i70 recommendation.  I looked at i50/60's but ended up with
four i70's.  Two are on each side of the companionway so they are easily
visible from the helm and anywhere in the cockpit.  Depending upon what I'm
doing, they are set to display whatever I data needed at the time.  I'm glad
that I invested the slight extra $.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 



 

From: Frederick G Street [mailto:f...@postaudio.net] 
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2015 3:07 PM
To: Chuck Borge; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List New instruments?

 

Chuck - I recently had this discussion off-list with Jake Broderson; my take
was that the i50/i60 displays will only ever do one thing.  The wind display
will only ever display wind.  For not much more, you could get into the i70
system; it only comes with one display to start, but that display can show
any data on the bus.  So you can set it up in tri-data mode and display
wind, speed and depth on the one display (like this):

 



 

Want to add another display?  Change the data shown on the first display,
and add other data on the new one.  It's a very nice, customizable system.

 

Raymarine has a rebate on until the end of April; you can get $50 back on
any instrument purchase.  If you want special C&C lister pricing, contact me
off-list.  And there are others on the list for whom I've provided gear,
including the i70 System - ask around for their experience.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^( 

 

On Mar 26, 2015, at 12:59 PM, Chuck Borge via CnC-List
 wrote:





Hi Edd, Joel,

 

Thanks for the info.  It occurred to me that I meant the i50/i60 bundle
(wired).  I was waffling about the wireless, but since I tend to leave the
dodger up, I was concerned about there being enough sunlight to keep the
solar up.

Also, at some point I'll probably get back to racing, and I like the analog
reading on the i60 better.

 

 

So let's start over... remarks about the i50/i60 bundle, please?

 

Thanks,

Chuck B

C&C 34 Elusive

Somerset, MA

 

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Re: Stus-List running wire for chart plotter etc

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Brad,

My boat has a Raymarine chart plotter in a NavPod enclosure.  The NavPod
bolts directly to an Edson pedestal guard.  All wiring runs through the
pedestal guard and directly into the Chartplotter.  There is quite a bit of
stuff in the pedestal guard's tubing including power for the chart plotter,
power for 12 VDC outlets, a SeaTalk HS (radar) cable, a SeaTalk NG
(instruments) cable and a NMEA 0183 cable (legacy device).  None of these
cable are visible.

Last year, I worked on my steering.  Although it appears there is plenty of
room inside the pedestal, I had to take extra care for the two wires for the
compass light to prevent interference with the steering cables.  It would
have been almost impossible to manage all the extra cables inside the
pedestal.

Regards,
Ron
Ronald V. Ricci
S/V Patriot
C&C 37+
Bristol, RI
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

  

-Original Message-
From: Bradley Lumgair [mailto:lumg...@hotmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, March 30, 2015 5:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List running wire for chart plotter etc

How much stuff is inside the Edson pedestal on a C&C 33 II? Shift cable,
throttle cable and steering shaft? I've seen a few references to drilling
into the guard and running the wiring inside it, but wondered if there was
more empty space in the pedestal itself? There should already be a
substantial hole in the deck at that point. There is going to be a good
sized bundle of wire running up with the plotter, the autopilot head, and
the power for the drive unit. Is there a better place to put this stuff that
I'm not thinking about? (bought a RAM mount with a clamp to the ped. guard)
I'm just overthinking the install of the new instruments on our new boat and
don't want to hack something up I didn't need to.
Thanx
Brad
1985 C&C 33 MkII "Pulse"
Sarnia

Sent, miraculously through cyberspace,
from my iPad!



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Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

I’ve used fitting from McMaster-Carr that work with the grey tubing.  See 
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/173/=xdl4jn for polypropylene ½” tube to 
½”pipe thread and ½” tubing connectors.  It seals perfectly as I can leave the 
boat for several days and still have water pressure from the accumulator.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

  

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Solar Panel Regulator

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Edd,

 

I installed a http://www.morningstarcorp.com/products/sunsaver-duo/ which can 
charge two separate batteries.  Now all I have to do is figure out where to 
mount a panel.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

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Stus-List Dutchman Mainsail Flaking system

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Our boat came with a Dutchman flaking system that the FO said never worked.
I've rigged it and added a mast gate to keep the luff slides in the luff
track.  So far, this looks promising.  

 

The main issue that I'm having is reefing the main.  It does not seem that
the system will work with the reef hooks.  The sail flakes over the hooks
and the luff slides twist.  The Dutchman literature recommends using forward
reef lines.  They suggest installing pad eyes and cleats in the mast for the
lines.

 

First, any feedback from those of you who have Dutchman's?  If so, how do
you handle reefing?

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ Repower -- Ugh

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Edd,

 

Sorry about your impulse engine.  I’d factor in how much you spend each year to 
own the boat.  My guess is that it works out to close to a B.O.A.T. unit per 
week.  The BETA-30 sounds like a good deal.  You’d have a brand new engine 
without having to screw around waiting to get your old engine rebuilt.  If I 
repaired the old engine, I’d consider making sure of a new starter, alternator, 
mixing elbow, injectors, mounts. etc. unless you recently replaced any of them. 
 These add up quickly.

 

Good luck.  It’s always fun to spend someone else’s Federation credits.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

  

 

From: Edd Schillay [mailto:e...@schillay.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2015 3:42 PM
To: C&C List
Subject: Stus-List C&C 37+ Repower -- Ugh

 

Listers,

 

The yard is pulling out the Enterprise’s engine tomorrow. They can’t get it to 
turn more than 3/4 of the way and they think it’s a bent rod or something. 

 

So, as far as I can see, the options are:

 

1. They ship this engine to a place that can fix/rebuild. I know this is the 
lowest-priced option, but also am aware that there’s a possibility it can’t be 
fixed or rebuilt. So, in essence, I’m gambling with all that time and labor.

2. Obtain a remanufactured Universal M-35 or a similar engine from Westerbeke 
and get that put in — anyone have any clue as to those costs?

3. Obtain a Beta-30 from Beta Marine for $11,000 including shipping and put 
that in. The Beta guy (who has been enormously helpful) says it should be a 
perfect match (same mounts, same power, lighter engine)

 

Anyone have any advice, experience or comments with any of these options. If it 
were you, what would you do? 

 

Wanted to get this email out before I threw up. 

 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  

 









   

 






 

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Stus-List C&C 37+ Propeller & Boat Speed

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

I’m curious to see what kind of speed everyone gets on their 37/40. It is 
interesting to see that some listers get over 7 knots.  I’m lucky to get 5 
knots at 2500 rpm.  Above that rpm, there is not much of a noticeable change in 
speed, just noise. 

 

Here’s what Patriot has:

 

·3HM35F Yanmar 30 HP

·2.14 Gear Ratio

·16” Max-Prop – 2 bladed

·Right Rotation – from 
http://www.pyiinc.com/images/pdf/max-prop/PYI_Max-Prop_2_Blade_Instructions.pdf

o   18° 

o   X = E

o   Y (dot) = H

o   Y (dot)(dot) = V

 

Perhaps the 2 bladed prop is really that inefficient or my pitch should be 
changed.  Any advice will be appreciated.

 

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ Propeller & Boat Speed

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Tracy,

 

I wish I could come close.  Do you happen to know what pitch your prop is set 
for?

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: Tracy Hirsh [mailto:tracyh1...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, July 22, 2015 10:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ Propeller & Boat Speed

 

Ogopogo has her original Universal 35 engine with a 16" 2 blade Max Prop 
feathering prop. I easily make 7+ knots at about 2400 rpm in smooth water, 
usually 6-6.5 knots at 2200 rpm in our typical light chop. 

Tracy Hirsh
Ogopogo
1989 37+/40 CB
Fairhope Alabama

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Stus-List Spinnaker Sheets & Guys 37+/40

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

I’m wondering what size and length other owners use for sheets/guys for
their spinnakers.   The FO left me a collection of lines and four spinnakers
( ½, ¾, 1-½ oz. symmetrical & cruising).   

 

It doesn’t appear that I have anything for my cruising spinnaker and will
need both sheets and a tack line.  Depending upon where I look, it seems
that I should have a sheet length between 80’ – 100’.  All I have is a 70’
½” line.  Also, does anyone use parrel beads or an ATN tacker?   

 

For my symmetrical spinnakers, I have 2 guys 57’ x ½” which appear to be OK.
The sheets I have are 80’ x ¼”, 63’ x ½” and 50’ x 9/16”.   Except for the
¼” line, they all seem short.  Mauri Pro sells sheets that are 92’ long.

 

Thanks,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

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Re: Stus-List LPG tank -- 37+

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Edd,

 

Mine is propane and can be refilled for most anywhere.  If your tank is more 
than about 12 years old, it may not be able to be refilled without being 
tested.  That’s not worth the money.  Also, the tank, if it is really old, may 
not have an overfill preventer in which case it cannot be refilled.

 

My tank had to be replaced when I bought the boat in 2010.  I got a fiberglass 
tank which is great.  No corrosion and you can see the level in the tank if you 
look carefully.  

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

  

 

From: Edd Schillay [mailto:e...@schillay.com] 
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2015 8:09 AM
To: cnc-list Cnc-List
Subject: Stus-List LPG tank -- 37+

 

Listers,

 

I think this was covered in the past, but I'm getting older and I forgot the 
answer. 

 

In my 37+, I have a tank labelled LPG for my stove. I need to get it refilled. 

 

Is this propane? The same propane used for bbq grills? Or is LPG something a 
little different? 

 

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

---

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

NCC-1701-B

C&C 37+ | City Island, NY

www.StarshipSailing.com

---

914.332.4400  | Office

914.774.9767  | Mobile

---

Sent via iPhone 6

iPhone. iTypos. iApologize

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Re: Stus-List Sound Proofing

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Gary,

 

Take a look at: http://www.sailorssolutions.com/index.asp?page=ProductDetails 
 
&Item=SPM01

 

I replaced my disintegrating sound insulation with this stuff and am happy with 
it.  If we get to the boat this weekend, I’ll send you a couple of photos.

 

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: Gary Russell [mailto:captnga...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Friday, August 21, 2015 5:45 AM
To: C&C List
Subject: Stus-List Sound Proofing

 

I recently purchased a C&C 37 Plus and the pathetic sound insulation in the 
engine enclosure was disintegrating, so I ripped it all out.  Now the question 
is, what to replace it with.  I am considering Soundown products.  An opinions 
out there?  What should I use?

 

Gary

S/V High Maintenance

'90 C&C 37 Plus

East Greenwich, RI, USA


~~~_/)~~

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Re: Stus-List Hot water tank

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

My boat has a combination 120 VAC 1.5 kW electric/engine coolant hot water 
heater.  It holds 6 gallons of fresh water.  For grins, I tried it on the 
battery/inverter and it drew 117 amps DC.  This is consistent with the unit’s 
rating as the battery voltage dropped below 12 VDC when tried.  Since my 
alternator can only put out 55 amps and the battery cables are only #4 AWG, 
running the heater  with shore power does not seem practical.  I do not 
normally have AC shore power.  To prevent inadvertently turning on the heater, 
I disconnected the power feed at the circuit breaker.

 

The engine coolant part of the heater works great.  We can run the engine in 
the afternoon to recharge batteries and/or go to a mooring.  There is plenty of 
hot water for dinner dishes and a couple of quick showers.

 

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 




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Re: Stus-List varnishing

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bev,

 

I've had excellent results using a spray bottle with 50% clear vinegar &
water.  The black stuff comes off with a soft brush.  Scrub perpendicular to
the grain.

 

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: Bev Parslow [mailto:bparslo...@yahoo.ca] 
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2014 10:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List varnishing

 

Ready to start varnishing but how can I get rid of the accumulated black of
old varnish, dirt etc around the teak on the fibre glass. I am trying to get
a clean edge. Can I use paint stripper? Will it hurt the fibre glass?

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Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

I usually leave my mast in the boat.  It does need to be pulled every few years 
to properly inspect the rigging.  My boat does fine on the jack stands here in 
Bristol, RI.  However, a couple of years ago, during a near-miss hurricane a 
very large boat with a ~70’ mast and in-mast furling blew over.  It rolled into 
another boat.  Fortunately a wide fishing boat stopped the domino effect.  

 

One thing that I do is to remove the halyards and topping lift.  I replace them 
with messenger lines and wash them.  My rigger told me this would effectively 
double the useful life of the lines.

 

The only issue I’ve had leaving the mast in the boat is water coming down the 
mast.  A rag in the luff track, above the shrink wrap, stops much of it.  I 
also put anti-freeze in the bilge.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: Hoyt, Mike [mailto:mike.h...@impgroup.com] 
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 3:32 PM
To: Joel Aronson; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

 

This is a long time debate.  Which damages boat / mast more?  Removal and 
reinstall of mast and potential mishaps or leaving it up?  I know that one 
season on our J27 we left the mast up.  That Spring while working on the boat 
the entire cradle would vibrate every time a gust of wind hit.  I attribute 
this to a very slender and bendy spar as much as anything.

 

The big issue these days seems to be leaving a spar up with a boat on jack 
stands.  The extra windage of the mast further compromises the integrity of 
jack stands.  One local club (Dartmouth Yacht Club) will not permit a mast to 
be left up on the hard unless the boat is stored on a cradle.  Another way to 
look at it is if you wish to use jack stands the mast must come down.

 

I realize that many boat yards in the Northeast US only allow jackstands.  I 
believe this is due to yard space and not due to a jackstand being more secure 
than a cradle.  

 

So here we are back to the very old mast up vs mast down question.  At the very 
least mast down does give you a good opportunity to inspect the standing 
rigging and the mast

 

Mike

 

From: CnC-List [  
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 4:17 PM
To: Ron Casciato;   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

 

Same in Annapolis. Masts stay in the boat unless they are being worked on.

 

Joel

 

On Mon, Sep 22, 2014 at 3:13 PM, Ron Casciato via CnC-List 
 wrote:

In the boatyards around Boston.almost no masts are removed for
winter storage..most are stored with mast up and seem to do
well

In the past 14 years, I've only taken mine down for revisions or repairs to
wind instruments..probably 3 times in that 14 year interval

It will be staying up again this year.  Yes, relieve the tension on shrouds
and backstay "a little" not flopping around

Ron C.
Impromptu
C&C 38MKIIC.'77


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 2:03 PM
To: Dr. Mark Bodnar; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

Mast up with a boat on jack stands is not a good idea.  Many clubs
around here do not permit it

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr.
Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 2:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?


All the discussion about unstepping the mast has me wondering about the
merits of leaving it in or pulling it out for the winter.
In the owners manual for the CS 30 is states
> CS Yachts does not recommend that the yacht be stored with the mast
> left in place as this places stresses on the hull and rig not
> encountered during normal operation. Any damage  to  the  yacht,  its

> cradle  or  any  associated  part will not  be  covered  under
> warranty if the boat has been stored with the rig in place.

I pulled the mast on my Mirage 24 - but we were able to do that by hand.
Our club has a crane and a "gin pole"(?) that could be used to pull the
mast --- but given all the bigger boats seem to leave the mast in place
I wonder if I'm better leaving it as it is. Loosen up the shrouds a
little and maybe pull our the halyards (leaving messenger lines).
I know when I bought the boat it hadn't been off the jack stands for 3
yrs - and the mast was up the whole time (shrouds not loosened and 3 of
the 4 halyards just pulled up to the mast head --- rescued by the launch
crew for me)

Having just bought this boat I wonder if hauling the mast might be a
good idea so I can get a good look at the mast head, sheaves etc. That
said everything i

Re: Stus-List sailing this weekend

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Chuck,

 

I rebuilt the steering on my 1991 37+ this summer.  The whole plate was so 
badly rusted that the idler pulleys moved enough to allow the steering cable to 
drop off the radial wheel.  Edson had a replacement which comes with idler 
pulleys but unfortunately is made of mild steel.  My pulleys were OK and I 
considered having a stainless steel plate made up.  The Edson plate is a little 
more complicated than just a flat piece of S/S.

 

Given the effort to replace my plate, I also replaced the cables, rebuilt the 
brake and replace the bearings on the steering wheel shaft.  The whole thing 
took several hours plus about one BOAT (Bring Over Another Thousand) unit in $. 
 

 

Edson is convenient for me to buy direct.  They were very helpful and had all 
the documentation for my boat.  I think I even met the guy who designed my 
steering.

 

If you have an Edson steering system, I’d contact them.

 

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: Chuck S [mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net] 
Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2014 8:21 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List sailing this weekend

 

Went to my boat Saturday late.  Stayed overnight and enjoyed the quiet and 
solitude, having the whole marina to myself.  It dropped into the 40's and 
everyone else went home.  Today I stayed in the slip because of the cool 
weather and gusty 20+ winds.  No boats went sailing.  Instead I finished a few 
projects and started few more, and made some new friends helping them with 
their boats.  I always learn new techniques, watching how others do things.

 

Found a lot of play in my steering last time out, so I tightened the cable and 
lubed it.  Found a teaspoon of rust under the pedestal, so I think it's due for 
a new idler sheave mounting plate?  That's probably why the cable got loose?   
I could only find complete assemblies for $450 online.  All I need is the 
plate.  The sheaves and uprights are fine.  Has anybody else replaced theirs?  
I'd like to get a bronze one.

 


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 

  _  

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <  
cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: "Baumes, Eric" <  eric.bau...@gmail.com>
Cc: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <  
cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2014 7:30:16 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List sailing this weekend

 

No blooper this time round - the wind was a bit far forward.  Great day out on 
the water though; 9.8 knots downwind (until I chickened out as the wind went 
forward and broaches started to get more frequent and more violent), 6.3 up in 
28-35 apparent (one major round up on a big shift we didn't spot coming).  We 
had relatively flat water, sunshine and lots of wind - great end to the season!

 

Tim

Mojito

C&C 35-3

Branford, CT
On Oct 17, 2014, at 10:59 AM, Eric Baumes <  
eric.bau...@gmail.com> wrote:

 

 

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Re: Stus-List CG Documentation and exchange of ownership in Massachuse tts

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Danny,

 

A Massachusetts purchaser must pay the Sales and Use Tax by the 20th day of
the month following the transaction.  See:
http://www.mass.gov/dor/all-taxes/sales-and-use/boats-recreational-and-snow-
vehicles/

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: Danny Haughey [mailto:djhaug...@juno.com] 
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2014 10:59 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CG Documentation and exchange of ownership in
Massachuse tts

 

HI Guys,

 

Can anyone shed any light on what is necessary when a coastguard documented
vessel changes hands in Massachusetts?  In otherwords both seller and buyer
reside in Massachusetts?

 

What are the sales tax requirements?  the coastguard site does not seem to
mention sales tax in the instructions I found on line.

 

http://www.uscg.mil/nvdc/instr/inst%20exchange.pdf

 

Any insights would be greatly appreciated!!

 

Danny

westport point, MA

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Re: Stus-List 37+ handrail removal

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Josh,

 

If helpful, I'll take a look at mine (1991).  It may not be for a few weeks.

 

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

From: Josh Muckley [mailto:muckl...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2014 4:50 AM
To: C&C List
Subject: Stus-List 37+ handrail removal

 

Any of you 37+ owners know how to get to the aft most mounting screw on the
port handrail?  It looks like it's inside nut is above the headliner of the
head or maybe above the forward bulkhead of the head, between the salon
headliner and the head headliner.  

I am fine pulling the head's headliner except that it looks like it is
laminated to the cabin top (near the windows at a minimum).  Same with the
significantly larger salon headliner.  I think an access hole and plug are
in order but where best to put one is the question.

Thanks guys,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

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Re: Stus-List ; Oil and Water Temp gauge sending units;

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Richard,

 

I have a 3HM35F on my 1991 37+.  A while ago, I considered adding senders
for oil pressure & water temperature.  Currently I have the standard oil
pressure and water temperature switches for the red lights.  Somewhere along
the line, I found that Yanmar senders may use Japanese Industrial Standard
fittings.  See: http://www.ryco.com.au/index.php?id=224.  There is some
interchangeability with British Standard Pipe thread.  It was very confusing
and I got as far as considering removing the switches off and taking them to
a mechanic to verify the size.  

 

 

Hope this helps,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: Richard N. Bush [mailto:bushma...@aol.com] 
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2014 4:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List ; Oil and Water Temp gauge sending units;

 

I am in need of the lists' collective institutional knowledge; I bought two
teleflex gauges; one for oil pressure, and the other Water temp; I need to
order the sending units;
I have a 1985 Yanmar 3HMF (1985 C&C 37); the engine has never had these
gauges; I called the tech dept for teleflex; they gave me a Sierra Part
number for the oil gauge sender; (18-5899), but 
 for the water temp gauge they tell me I need to know the thread size for
the engine to know which sending unit to purchase; there are four different
units; (18-5896; TS-1/4-18; TS 3/8-18; TS 1/2-18)
I am not a mechanic and have no idea how to find this information; I do have
all of the Yanmar service manuals and parts manuals; is this information in
the manuals or how can I find this out? Many thanks  

 

Richard

1985 C&C 37 CB; 

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

My C&C 37+ has a 30 HP Yanmar 3HM35F with a two-bladed folding PYI Max Prop.  I 
don’t know the diameter or pitch settings.  At around 2500 rpm, the boat can 
make about 5 knots, beyond that I just get more noise at max engine speed of 
about 3000 RPM.  My feeling the prop is not very efficient but probably 
presents very little drag when sailing.   If I wanted the boat to go faster on 
the engine a new prop would be in order.  The engine is fine for my boat.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 



 

From: Danny Haughey [mailto:djhaug...@juno.com] 
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2015 7:10 AM
To: cscheaf...@comcast.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size

 

I think my point is;

 

Where we sail there are some pretty good currents and the chop picks up quite 
often.  Sometimes, you have to make it home heading into both.  That's when you 
want the extra hp.  We sometimes have guests that get a little nervous when the 
conditions get exciting and we try to get them in as quickly as possible.  
Sure, you can move along at hull speed in favorable conditions but, the only 
time I'd be able to notice that the stern dug in a few inches would be in the 
harbour, sometimes.  We almost never experience flat water and are typically 
dealing with a 3 to 4 knot current.  Sometimes it is our favor and usually try 
to time our trips so it is.  But day sailing, I don't really care as much.  I 
sometimes could only get 3 knots under full power trying to round a mark to get 
into a harbour.  That can be a little unnerving.  

 

Danny

 

 

>From my Android phone 


 Original message 
From: Chuck S  
Date: 01/11/2015 11:45 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: Danny Haughey ,"CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size 



". . . bigger is better. . . "?  Is a bigger booty better?  Will a bigger 
anchor make my sailboat go faster?  

What helps sailing is "no engine".   Light means flight.  

Research the brochures and look to buy a boat with the "designed right size 
engine", not bigger.  An upgrade would be a smaller diesel w a turbo.  Just 
sayin.

 

Chuck 

 

 

  _  

From: "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" <  
cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To:   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2015 7:54:45 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size

 

Ok well, I guess it is adequate then.  I just tend to see 40 hp engines in most 
40 footers.

 

Maybe not be the ideal and will be a bargaining point if it comes to that.

 

Bigger is better in this instance I think...

 

Thanks for the insights guys!

 

Danny

 

 

>From my Android phone 

 


 Original message 
From: allen via CnC-List <  
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Date: 01/10/2015 3:53 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: Robert Abbott <  
robertabb...@eastlink.ca>,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size 

 

Our 30-2 has 20 hp Universal and easily reaches hull speed in light to calm 
conditions.  Originally it was powered by an 18 hp Universal that netted 16.

 

Allen Miles

s/v Septima

 

From:   Robert Abbott via CnC-List 

Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2015 3:41 PM

To:   Danny Haughey ;  
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size

 

Danny:
Some say if you have one hp per foot of boat, you are adequately powered for a 
sailboat.  A 35 hp diesel in a 37+ seems adequate to me.

 

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

 


On 2015/01/10 12:30 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Guys,

 

I'm eyeing a 1989 37+  but it has a 35 HP universal diesel.  That, seems kind 
of small for a nearly 40' boat.  doesn't it?

 

Danny





 

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Pleas

Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Josh,

 

I should have said feathering.  16" sounds about right.  Somewhere I have
the pitch settings for my prop.

 

Ron

 

From: Josh Muckley [mailto:muckl...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2015 12:23 PM
To: C&C List; Ron Ricci
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size

 

Hey Ron,

I think you meant feathering prop right?  I don't recall PYI making a
folding prop.  And you're right the 2 blade just doesn't transfer the power
to the water as efficiently.  It is likely that the hull clearance has
limited the size of your prop to 16".  In this case more pitch is the only
way to get more thrust from the prop.  This could cause the engine to not
reach full rated speed.  Remember frequently running the engine at ~80% load
is best for it.

Josh

On Jan 12, 2015 11:42 AM, "Ron Ricci via CnC-List" 
wrote:

My C&C 37+ has a 30 HP Yanmar 3HM35F with a two-bladed folding PYI Max Prop.
I don't know the diameter or pitch settings.  At around 2500 rpm, the boat
can make about 5 knots, beyond that I just get more noise at max engine
speed of about 3000 RPM.  My feeling the prop is not very efficient but
probably presents very little drag when sailing.   If I wanted the boat to
go faster on the engine a new prop would be in order.  The engine is fine
for my boat.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

 <mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 



 

From: Danny Haughey [mailto: <mailto:djhaug...@juno.com> djhaug...@juno.com]

Sent: Monday, January 12, 2015 7:10 AM
To:  <mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net> cscheaf...@comcast.net;
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size

 

I think my point is;

 

Where we sail there are some pretty good currents and the chop picks up
quite often.  Sometimes, you have to make it home heading into both.  That's
when you want the extra hp.  We sometimes have guests that get a little
nervous when the conditions get exciting and we try to get them in as
quickly as possible.  Sure, you can move along at hull speed in favorable
conditions but, the only time I'd be able to notice that the stern dug in a
few inches would be in the harbour, sometimes.  We almost never experience
flat water and are typically dealing with a 3 to 4 knot current.  Sometimes
it is our favor and usually try to time our trips so it is.  But day
sailing, I don't really care as much.  I sometimes could only get 3 knots
under full power trying to round a mark to get into a harbour.  That can be
a little unnerving.  

 

Danny

 

 

>From my Android phone 


 Original message 
From: Chuck S  
Date: 01/11/2015 11:45 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: Danny Haughey ,"CNC boat owners, cnc-list"
 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size 

". . . bigger is better. . . "?  Is a bigger booty better?  Will a bigger
anchor make my sailboat go faster?  

What helps sailing is "no engine".   Light means flight.  

Research the brochures and look to buy a boat with the "designed right size
engine", not bigger.  An upgrade would be a smaller diesel w a turbo.  Just
sayin.

 

Chuck 

 

 

  _  

From: "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" < <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To:  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2015 7:54:45 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size

 

Ok well, I guess it is adequate then.  I just tend to see 40 hp engines in
most 40 footers.

 

Maybe not be the ideal and will be a bargaining point if it comes to that.

 

Bigger is better in this instance I think...

 

Thanks for the insights guys!

 

Danny

 

 

>From my Android phone 

 


 Original message 
From: allen via CnC-List < <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Date: 01/10/2015 3:53 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: Robert Abbott < <mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca>
robertabb...@eastlink.ca>, <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size 

 

Our 30-2 has 20 hp Universal and easily reaches hull speed in light to calm
conditions.  Originally it was powered by an 18 hp Universal that netted 16.

 

Allen Miles

s/v Septima

 

From:  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Robert Abbott via CnC-List 

Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2015 3:41 PM

To:  <mailto:djhaug...@juno.com> Danny Haughey ;
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size

 

Danny:
Some say if you have one hp per foot of boat, you are adequately powered for
a sailboat.  A 35 hp diesel in a 37+ seems adequate to me.

 

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

 


On 2015/01/10 12:30 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Guys,

 

I'm eyein

Re: Stus-List Refilling 10 lb propane tank

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

The OPD is "Overflow Protection Device".  It prevents any kind of tank,
regardless of material or age, from being overfilled which could cause a
tank failure.  

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: Jake Brodersen [mailto:captain_j...@cox.net] 
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2015 8:32 AM
To: 'mike amirault'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refilling 10 lb propane tank

 

Mike,

 

I have an aluminum tank from my boat that doesn't have an OPD valve on it.
No way to get it filled unless I replace the valve with the newer "safe"
variety.  Never heard of problems with the tank material though.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

"Midnight Mistress"

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of mike
amirault via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2015 6:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Refilling 10 lb propane tank

 

Hello all. I brought my 10lb aluminum tank to Costco Halifax today for a
refill. The attendant did fill it but informed me that they are not supposed
to fill them any more because aluminum tanks are considered "commercial" and
are to be taxed accordingly which Costco is not set up to do at the pumps.
This sounds like a lot of BS to me. Has anyone else run into this?

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Re: Stus-List LED Nav Lights

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

This light looks great as a replacement for the Aqua Signal that I currently 
have expect for one detail.  The connections are via leads which means three 
splices inside your mast.  The Aqua Signal has pressure plate terminals.  On 
mine, I use an LED for the steaming light but am stuck with the 20 watt 
incandescent deck light.

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 4, 2016 10:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List LED Nav Lights

 

Bill — I’m in the process of rewiring my mast and replacing all the mast 
lighting; I’m replacing the steaming/deck combo light with this LED fixture 
from MarineBeam:

 

https://store.marinebeam.com/led-masthead-foredeck-combination-light/

 

They just started shipping these; as a fully-sealed fixture, there shouldn’t be 
any corrosion issues, ever.  I’m also installing their combo masthead 
tricolor/anchor light:

 

https://store.marinebeam.com/led-tri-color-navigation-and-all-around-anchor-light/

 

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On Apr 4, 2016, at 9:18 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

Interesting, well, I am replacing a Perko# 120MD  because Perko  decided to use 
plain steel for their light sockets and is corroded beyond repair. This 
Aquasignal Series 25 looks just like the Perko steaming/Deck light, whatever 
they want to call it, so I am going to call it a Steaming/Deck Light. Except 
that, now I see this particular one is not on sale during the Warehouse sale. 
Being a Sailor, and chronically cheap, now this presents another problem. . . . 
.

As they call this a masthead light, does this mean it is supposed to be at the 
very top of the mast? Mine is just above the baby stay, and is caused chafing 
on my Genoa. I have never seen a steaming /Deck light anywhere other than half 
way up the mast, does anyone have any feeling on this? BTW, the reason it is 
above the baby stay, is because I put track on the mast front for storing the 
Spinnaker Pole.

 

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Re: Stus-List Ball Caps

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Stu,

 

www.CafePress.com and www.Zazzle.com seem to allow creation of a logo items
that can be sold and part of the sale proceeds go to the creator of the
item.  I'd be willing to create items for sale with the proceeds going
directly to the list.  This way, listers could purchase one (or more) caps
or tee shirts (many other items are also available).  I'd need the artwork
for the logo and would submit the items to you for your OK.  

 

What do you think?

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 6, 2016 8:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stu
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ball Caps

 

And I have a legally signed letter giving me use of the logo for profit.

 

Stu 

 
 

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Re: Stus-List 37+ and XL (and probably 34's too) Pedestal Guard Wiring

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Edd,

 

I had a Navpod with an MFD added to my 1991 37+.  The pedestal guard was 
replaced so the Navpod could be mounted above the compass.  The new pedestal 
guard has larger ID (1-1/8) to take MFD power, NMEA 2000 cables, radar cable 
and 12 VDC plug wiring.  

 

There is no access point in the aft cabin but it was possible to snake cables 
from the lazarette.  The old pedestal guard was removed and the holes enlarged 
to take the new pedestal guard.  It was caulked in place and held down by the 
pedestal.  (There was no way to put the locknuts on the pedestal guard feet.)  
I ended up replacing the 3M 5200 with butyl rubber as the former leaked.  It 
may be possible to cut access holes in the ‘bump’ in the headliner in the aft 
cabin.  You could located the access holes when the old pedestal guard is 
removed. 

 

When you remove the pedestal guard, consider servicing your steering.  My idler 
pulley plate was so badly corroded, the pulleys moved & steering cables fell 
off.  I ended up replacing that along with cables, wheel brake, etc.

 

Good luck,

 

Ron

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 8, 2016 4:24 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Stus-List 37+ and XL (and probably 34's too) Pedestal Guard Wiring

 

Listers,

 

Has anyone with 1989-1993 C&Cs installed instruments into a NavPod (or similar) 
onto their stainless pedestal guards, and, if so, how did you run the wires 
down from inside the guard? In other words, once you reached the bottom, where 
did you go from there? 

 

As far as I can tell, without taking it all apart, the guard ends on the deck 
above the aft cabin and there is no access point to that area. But, I may be 
wrong. 

 

Anyone? I’m looking to install a Raymarine e95 MFD and p70 Autopilot control 
head at the helm.

 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

 


   

 






 

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Re: Stus-List Galley sink basket/strainer

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bradley,

 

I just re-plumbed my galley sink which has 1” drain hose.  My hull valve is ¾”. 
 I found a ¾” NPT Male to 1” hose Marelon fitting at Fishery Supply (SKU 
177739).  I also replaced the sink drain baskets which required the drain 
basket, a reducer and hose adapter.  All parts were Scandvik.  You may have a 
different size sink drain but it’s woth checking out.

 

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bradley 
Lumgair via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 17, 2016 9:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bradley Lumgair
Subject: Stus-List Galley sink basket/strainer

 

Last winter when we bought Pulse, the surveyor wrote that every hose on the 
boat should be changed, so I'm working on it. They are original to the boat, 
1985. Replaced the drain hose from the galley sink to the thru hull and crushed 
the little funnel shaped brittle plastic fitting on the bottom of the drain 
basket strainer assembly under the galley sink. Made a quick sweep of all the 
regular websites and can only find a reducing fitting to 3/4 inch. The sink 
drain hose is 1 inch. Don't want to replace the thru hull nor have a 
restriction in that line. Anyone have a suggestion? Maybe there's a domestic 
plumbing fitting I'm missing out on?

Thank you

Brad

"Pulse" 1985 C&C 33 MkII

Lake Huron

Image removed by sender.Image removed by sender.

I'd rather be sailing

 

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Re: Stus-List Icebox pump

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Alan, 

See attached photo.  We have a sump located in the bilge inboard and
slightly forward of the galley sink.  It has a Rule pump and float switch.
The circuit breaker provides power to the float switch and we only shut the
breaker when we pump the sump.  The sump pump discharges via a check valve
and anti-siphon valve located under the sink into the tee from the left side
of the picture.  The galley sink drain goes into the tee from the top of the
picture.  I've since replaced the nylon tee and cleaned up the lines in the
bilge.  

We keep a plug in the icebox drain until we want to drain water.  The cold
water helps keep the icebox cool.  

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C&C 37+
Bristol, RI
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alan
Liles via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 27, 2016 8:04 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Alan Liles
Subject: Stus-List Icebox pump

Hi all. I was just at the boat cleaning up and I tried the icebox pump by
switching it on at the breaker panel. Nothing. I tried to get a look at it
but it seems I'd have to take up the galley sole to see the bottom of the
icebox so I thought I'd research it a bit before I started disassembling.
My first question is whether the pump should start when the breaker is
switched on. Secondly, is the pump located at the bottom of the box or
should I look elsewhere? Also, where do you suppose it discharges?

Cheers, Al
SV Elendil 
C&C 37+
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Re: Stus-List Stripping Cabin Sole

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

John,

I've refinished several pieces of my cabin sole by removing them and doing it 
in my workshop.  Removal is easy.   It allowed me to clean and seal the edges 
and the underside.  I also was able to repair places where the teak edging tape 
had broken off.  It was well worth the minimal extra effort.

Just my two cents.

Ron

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Pennie 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2016 12:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Pennie
Subject: Stus-List Stripping Cabin Sole

Has anyone used a water based paint stripper to remove varnish from the cabin 
sole?  I’m going to have to refinish them in place so I’m concerned about any 
stripper that might seep through and end up in the bilge. Lots of plastic stuff 
down there that may not react too well.

John


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Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

I have the units that take a winch handle and like them.  They are made of 
aluminum and have O-rings.  I put a light coating of petroleum jelly on the 
threads and O-rings to prevent seizing.

 

Has anyone found a source for spare caps?  I keep a 1-1/2” PVC pipe plug as an 
emergency spare.

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 



 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
Brown via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 6, 2016 6:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Brown
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

 

As a last resort, drill a hole through the center large
enough to take a hacksaw or jigsaw blade. Cut out to
the edge including into the threads at a location that
is just a bit counterclockwise from one of the original
holes. Use a punch at a low angle and hammer.

At some point I will replace my fittings, what does the
group think of the units that use a winch handle vs the
key?

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1

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Re: Stus-List Salon Lighting

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

I also used the same lights and mounted them of a 3/8" PVC base that was cut
to fit the base of the fixture with a section routed out for the wires.
This was fairly easy to do.  I opted for the Red/Off/White version so the
boat can be "rigged for red" at sunset.

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

   

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Coleman via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 10, 2016 8:53 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Stus-List Salon Lighting

 

Most of the older C&C's had double rectangular  fluorescent lights in the
main cabin, which are nowadays woefully inadequate. I eventually gave up
finding a replacement that would cover all the holes and I purchased 4 Aqua
Signal  lights,

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|65136|2312540|2312542&id=160749
7

 

But unfortunately there is no space behind the light for wire termination.

 

What have others used for replacement  overhead lighting in the cabin?

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PA

 

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Re: Stus-List Alternator Failure

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Gary,

 

No idea on #1.  My “ignition” switch was inadvertently shut off the other day 
with no consequences.  The switch has nothing to do with the alternator.  It 
simply provides power to the starter button, fuel gauge, hour meter, tachometer 
and oil/temperature alarms.  Switching the batteries off while the engine is 
running will fry the alternator diodes.

 

For #2, check out: http://www.balmar.net/?page_id=15295.  It’s simply a 
packaged Zener diode.

 

Ron

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 7:37 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Stus-List Alternator Failure

 

Well, It's happened again.  The "ignition" key on my diesel got shut off while 
the engine was running (before stopping the engine with the stop lever) and it 
fried the diodes in the alternator.

 

Question #1.  Can anyone explain the failure mechanism to me?

 

Question #2.  On my last boat I was able to buy a protection device (I think it 
 was called a "Zap-Stop") that protected the alternator in the event someone 
shut off the key with the engine running.  The dealer I bought it from is now 
out of business and I can't seem to find it anywhere.  Does anyone know how I 
can protect the alternator from this happening again?

 

Thanks,

Gary

S/V Kaylarah

'90 C&C 37+

East Greenwich, RI, USA  


~~~_/)~~

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Re: Stus-List Compass light - thoughts?

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Josh,

 

If I had to replace the switch for the compass light or rewire it, I’d consider 
powering it off the navigation lights.  I think the connection on a 37+ could 
easily be made in the lazarette which already has power to the stern light.  
This wouldn’t be much different than the dash lights in your car coming on with 
your headlights.  Makes sense to me.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

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Stus-List C&C 37+ Anchor Roller Mount & Windlass

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Maybe I'm getting old but am considering adding an anchor roller mount and
windlass to my boat.  I have a 33' Bruce anchor which I may upsize since I'd
no longer be the windlass.  It seemed pretty tricky to get the anchor and
chain in with the head stay, jib tacks and mooring line chocks.   

 

Any advice and photos (especially of the bow roller & mooring line chock
areas) would be appreciated.  Please use link to OneDrive
  to copy/paste photos
that you can share or send them to my email address below (without copying
the list).   

 

Thanks,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Anchor roller arrangement on my C&C 38

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Listers,

 

Many good ideas and thanks to all for your input.  

 

I liked  Rick Brass's idea of adding provision for the asymmetrical tack
line to the custom roller mounting plate.   Paul E's use of the 4WD
controller is cool and his blog is even cooler.  Tom's photos show a really
neat install and it looks like the Quick windlass can take both rope and
chain.  This can help keep the weight down in the bow while maximizing rode
length.  I'm leaning toward a powered windlass but appreciate Josh's
thoughts on a manual unit and also his idea for a selectable fresh/salt
water wash-down pump.  Andrew Burton's photos give me a clear picture of the
modifications/adaptations needed to the existing bow area.

 

I've collected all these and put it in OneDrive folder:
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AhpB-lul9d5YgmLzIeljVDt4Uhjv

 

Thanks again,

 

Ron

 

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Re: Stus-List Portable Air Conditioner -- Anyone try it?

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Edd,

 

I just saw one installed to cool a ~400 sq. ft. meeting room.  It may have been 
larger than 8,000 BTU/hr. but was much better than the window unit it replaced. 
 

 

Good luck,

 

Ron  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 19, 2016 12:08 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Stus-List Portable Air Conditioner -- Anyone try it?

 

Listers,

 

We’ve had some really hot days up here in the Northeast and the Admiral is 
thinking air conditioning. I don’t really want to go through the expense of 
installing a marine air conditioner and through-hull valves, but I have been 
hearing stories of boaters putting one of those portable AC units on board with 
the exhaust hose going out through a hatch. 

 

I would probably stick with an 7,000-8,000 BTU using drawing 7-9 amps. The 
specs say that can cool 250 square feet, which I think would make the inside of 
a boat cabin quite comfortable. Obviously would only be used during shore power 
or while the engine is running (I have a high-amp alternator and a great 
inverter on board). 

 

Has anyone done this? Any thoughts? 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

 


   

 






 

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Re: Stus-List Raymarine Evolution autopilot -- major software upgrade

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Fred,

 

Did I miss something but didn’t this upgrade come with V17.45 of the MFD 
software?  I installed that about two months ago and checked today that I had 
V3.05 on my P70 and V2.17 on my EV1 & ACU.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

(978) 877-0369

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 1, 2016 10:16 AM
To: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine Evolution autopilot -- major software upgrade

 

To anyone on the list who’s got an Evolution autopilot — Raymarine has just 
announced a major (free!) software upgrade for your systems: 
http://www.raymarine.com/content/?id=17621

 

You’ll need a Ray MFD on the SeaTalkNG bus to upload the upgrade to the course 
computer; download the software to a MicroSD chip following the instructions on 
the website, then load the chip into the MFD and it’ll run itself.

 

Looks like some nice new features, and much-improved pilot performance.

 

— Fred

 


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 

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Stus-List Donation for Stu's List

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

I have a Raymarine M81190 ST Compass Transducer that has never been used and
is still in the box.  It sells for $173.99 on Defender.com.  If someone
makes a donation of $75.00 (or more) to Stu's list, they can have it.  I'll
ship it for free to anywhere in the US. 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

 

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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Robert,

I have a similar combination Steaming/Foredeck Light.  The steaming light is
required when under power at night.  It is not required under sail.  Mine
has three wires, a common (black), 12 VDC for steaming light (red) and 12
VDC (white) for foredeck light.  Your colors may be different, look where
the conductors terminate.  Originally there were three separate #16 AWG
wires which I replaced with a single 3 conductor #18 AWG cable.  The 20 watt
foredeck and LED steaming light draw under 2 amps.  


Regards,
Ron
Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C&C 37+
Bristol, RI
(978) 877-0369
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

  



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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Robert,

 

Your description below of the requirement is 100% correct while you are a
sailing vessel.  Turn on your engine, you become a power vessel and the
steaming light is required.

 

Ron

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 9:28 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Electrical Question

 

Appears my 'electrical question' veered off into another discussion on
'navigation lights'my fault when I said I was told by a fellow club
member that my 'masthead/steaming light' was not a legal requirement for my
boat.  I took the following quote from the West Marine site supplied my
Marek:

"Sailing vessels less than 20m in length need to show sidelights and a stern
light. These may be combined into a bicolor light and stern light, or a
single tricolor light at the top of the mast."

My boat is "less than 20m in length".

Whether the fixture is a legal requirement or not, I am going to replace it
with one similar because I want the 'foredeck light', but if it is indeed a
legal requirement, I want to comply as well.

So back to the beginning, the fixture I saw at the Binnacle looks very much
the same as the existing one..I like this as I would not have to drill
new holes to attach but if I have to, so be it.

The new fixture only has one wire to attach whereas mine appears to have
three (not exactly sure as I have not yet removed it from the mast although
there are three existing the base of the mast) and I have no idea how to
connect it.

There must be a logical way to connect it?

Rob



On 2016-09-12 2:02 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:

Rob,

 

As Frederick said, whoever told you that was mistaken. 

 

This illustrates what you have to show:

http://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Navigation-Light-Rules (scroll down to
a picture at the bottom of the page).  Keep in mind that HOW you display the
light is up to you (one light, combination of several lights), as long as
you display the RIGHT COLOURS and in the RIGHT SEGMENTS.

 

Marek

 

From: robert via CnC-List 

Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 11:29

To:   cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: robert 

Subject: Stus-List Electrical Question

 

Marek:

The light on the front of the mast about 1/2 way up just above the spreaders
is the one I am talking about..I was told it is no longer a legal
requirement but the 'anchor light' at the top of the mast is a legal
requirement..it can be seen 360 degrees but the light 1/2 way up the
front of the mast can not be seen 360 degrees.

I didn't think a single wire made sense also and did not buy the fixture. I
will buy the more expensive Aqua Signal.

Thanks all for your input.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S. 

On 2016-09-12 10:24 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:

Rob,

I am not sure to which part you refer as "no longer legally required". You
don't need the deck light, for sure, but you do need a steaming light,
unless you can show a 360 degrees white light in some other way (e.g. turn
off the stern light and turn on the anchor light at the top of the mast).

A single wire out of the combination light does not make sense. You need at
least two, unless they try using the mast as the ground (then I would not
buy it). Most of the combo lights come with separate leads for each
function, i.e. negative/ground (usually common), positive - steaming,
positive - deck light. Some combo lights had a switch in the unit that allow
to run the power with a single positive wire (plus the negative). If this is
one like that, the switch turns e.g. steaming light when you turn it on, but
if you switch it off and on again, it would turn the deck light, and again -
both. You would have to decide if that meets your needs.

If it really has a single wire, I am afraid, you will have to bite the
bullet and spend twice (3x?) as much on the Aqua Signal. 

Marine Outfitters (Kingston) has very similar light (for very similar price)
with 3 wires:

http://www.marineoutfitters.ca/index.cfm?category=10002|1|11312&product=
38614998&code=90021547.

Marek

From: robert via CnC-List 

Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 08:50

To:   cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: robert 

Subject: Stus-List Electrical Question

When up the mast the other day, I noticed that my 'Steaming, Bow, 
Foredeck Light' was in pretty bad shape.probably the original 32 
years old. Will probably replace it when the mast is hauled later this 
Fall although I understand this light is no longer legally 
required...but I do like the halogen foredeck light.

I found this one linked below at the Binnacle...almost similar to 
the existing one:

Lights-Steaming-Spreader-&-Deck-Lights/c23_156/p1349/AAA-MAST

Re: Stus-List C&C 37/40+ holding tank

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Alan,

I made a rig to backflush the vent line.  It consist of a toilet plunger and
a 'poop' collector.  The plunger is one of those that can hold a good amount
of water.  Here's a link to one:
https://smile.amazon.com/G-T-Water-Products-Inc-MP100-3/dp/B0006IXNDW/ref=sr
_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1498484557&sr=8-14&keywords=toilet+plunger.  The 'poop'
collector is made up from an PVC pipe fittings and hose.  It is basically a
1-1/2" reducing busing with adapters to a piece of 1/2" hose.  

If my tank vent clogs I can backflush the vent line.  First, pump the
holding tank as dry as possible.  Flushing air through the toilet helps.
Then hook up the 'poop' collector to your holding tank pumpout connection.
Route the hose to a bucket.  Take the plunger and fill it with clean water.
Hold the plunger against the tank vent where it penetrates the hull.
Depress the plunger to force water into the tank vent.  You may have to
repeat this several times.  Take a shop vacuum or your dinghy air pump and
pump air back into the vent line.  This will force any water out the vent
line.  You will notice dirty water in the 'poop' collector bucket.

You should be able to flush your vent line without disconnecting the vent
hose (very messy) and without pressuring the holding tank.  If you do have
to access the tank, here's a link to photos of my boat:
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AhpB-lul9d5YpgwQQIwkCopkxqSt.  The access hole on my
tank leaked so I replaced the cover and re-bed it with butyl rubber.  This
eliminated foul odor.

Good luck,

Ron

Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C&C 37+
Bristol, RI
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alan
Liles via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2017 7:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Alan Liles
Subject: Stus-List C&C 37/40+ holding tank

Has anyone on the list had to access their holding tank? My vent is plugged
and I need to access at least one end. There is a small access port in the
top of one of the vanity cupboards but that seems fairly useless as I can't
see much in there and my hands don't really fit. To get to the tank top it
looks like the sink and vanity top have to be removed which also involves
the shower plexiglass and support. Any ideas before I disassemble my entire
head?

Al Liles
SV Elendil
C&C37/40+
Vancouver 


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Re: Stus-List Treating Monel water tanks

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Joel,

 

Here’s what I used for my ‘plastic’ tanks: 
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/thetford-fresh-water-tank-sanitizer-36662.  It 
is supposed to be non-corrosive.  

 

I’m curious how you got Monel tanks.  It is corrosion resistant but does 
corrode.  I have a 3” ball from a sea valve that has ¼” deep pits on the 
surface where it was exposed to salt water.  

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

  

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 3, 2017 2:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Stus-List Treating Monel water tanks

 

All

 

Anything you can add to monel water tanks to keep them clean?

 

Joel 

-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List 1980 C&C 30 headliner removal + the notorious C&C smile

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Chris,
It is possible to perform an ultrasonic test on the keel bolts.  Cost I got
was about $1200.  Can try to dig up info if that would help you.
Ron

On Jul 16, 2017 2:15 PM, "Chris Hobson via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Curious how involved removing the cabin headliner is on a 1980 C&C MK1
> would like to get access to replace/re-bed a bunch of things including the
> grab rails.
>
> Also, a common question I’m sure that gets asked a lot with C&Cs, but is
> it typical for most of this vintage to have the C&C “smile” at the keel?
> Obviously a good grounding would cause it. I’ve checked the keel bolts and
> they look good and clean with no signs of stress from inside the bilge, and
> no water. Will be hauling out soon for a closer look owner says it has the
> “usual smile." I’ve heard of owners who dropped the keel to check bolts for
> corrosion. I got rough estimates for this at around 4k. Pretty expensive
> price tag for some piece of mind.
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List mast gate

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Try tomlu...@gmail.com or MastGates.com. I corresponded with him a couple
of years ago but never bought anything. - Ron

On Jul 21, 2017 3:25 PM, "William Walker via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Can anyone give me ideas how to pattern a mast gate so I could get someone
> to machine from aluminum..Tired of feeding without a mast gate..
> Bill Walker
> CnC 36
> Pentwater, Mi
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Wiring Bilge Direct to Battery

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Chris,

 

Josh is right on the money!  You want to make sure both supplies are protected. 
 My boat has a fuse between the pump and the battery for the automatic ‘always 
on’ and a circuit breaker for manual.  As part of my ritual when leaving the 
boat, I’ll lift the float switch to make sure it is clear and functions 
properly. 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2017 6:29 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring Bilge Direct to Battery

 

Consider wiring so that there are 2 "power supplys".  The float switch can 
start the pump directly from the battery and the manual switch can start it 
from the normal switch board supply.  This way the auto float switch will 
always work. 

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

On Jul 30, 2017 1:24 PM, "Chris Hobson via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Need to wire the bilge pump direct to the battery and bypass the distribution 
panel. Currently have to turn battery on for it to work. Simple enough, just 
not something I've done before. Has anyone wired this or know how to install a 
switch (3-way) to do so? No I'm not an electrician and yes I'm aware of the 
consequences of electricity.

Chris Hobson
s/v Going
1980 C&C 30 MK1
Hull #615
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Stus-List Winterizing Diesel Engine Raw Water

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Each year, I struggle with pulling a hose off my raw water strainer to flush
anti-freeze through the system.  I've considered installing a tee in the
line.  Recently I came across an adaptor (Sea Flush) that fits in the top of
most any raw water strainer but it didn't look like there was enough
vertical clearance.  There is an adaptor for a Groco strainer but my C&C 37+
with a Yanmar 3HM35F appears to have a Perko 0493 Size 5 strainer.  I
contacted Perko who indicated that I could convert my 0493 strainer to a
0593 model which has a flush valve and hose connection on the top.
Unfortunately, it looks like I'd need about $250 worth of parts to make this
work.  I've heard that a second cap for the strainer could be modified by
installing a hose fitting.  The cap costs about $35.

 

I'm curious what other listers have done and if I'm right on the strainer
model #.  

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Water tank access - replacement threaded cap?

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

Try http://www.beckson.com/twistdp.html.  You may want to check the size on 
your boat.  I ended up replacing the one in my holding tank.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 8, 2017 9:10 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Water tank access - replacement threaded cap?

 

Hello all,

 

After fixing our cracked water tank, I put the caps back on the inspection 
ports, and filled up all the tanks, checking for leaks.  One in particular 
leaks rather badly, and it turns out the lip on the cap is cracked, causing the 
o-ring to not make a very good seal.  These do not appear to be the same as 
typical deck inspection port.  

 

Anyone know where to get new ones?  

 

Thanks in advance, 

 

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+,  "Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
  bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

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Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Were these on your AC panel?  I have ones provided by Paneltronics on my DC
panel but have to check my AC breaker ratings.  The ratings for some are 32
VDC and others are 80  VDC/250 VAC.  They look similar to your panel in
appearance.  So far, no problems.  Typically circuit breaker is rated for
interrupt amps and voltage.  Grossly exceed the load for the voltage rating
and they may not open.  You system should have a backup fuse or circuit
breaker rated for the maximum short circuit load.

I hope this is too much information and would try replacing the faulty
breakers.


Regards,
Ron
Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C&C 37+
Bristol, RI

ron.ri...@1968.usna.com


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul via
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 11:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com
Subject: Stus-List Electrical panel

I have had 2 breaker switches in the panel malfunction in the same week.  I
don't know if they are original but I assume they are.  They are Airpax
Circuit Breaker UPG6-1-52-103-91. F.L10A. MAX 65VDC. DELAY 52.  They would
become intermittent and I would need to wiggle the toggle to make it work.
I bought 2 used replacements in the meantime but interested to know if you
would recommend new panels or chock it up to coincidence and leave it as-is.
I'll order another switch to keep on hand but looking for your thoughts.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bw4NOPYfe9OWNE1yeXBSWkZfb2M


Thanks,
Paul Hood
81 C&C34 - Refuge
Georgian Bay



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Re: Stus-List Oven thermostat

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Gary,

 

We probably have the same Force 10 stove.  The oven is difficult to use without 
a thermostat.  I saw the there is a newer model that look very similar to what 
we have and it has a thermostatically controlled oven.  It may be possible to 
retrofit our stoves.  Here’s a link to the newer model’s manual: 
http://www.force10.com/files/documents/Gourmet%20Galley%20Range%20Manual.pdf

 

For several years, I’ve considered fixing the automatic ignition.  Maybe this 
winter, I’ll do that and see what it takes to convert the stove.

 

Ron

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2017 10:05 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Stus-List Oven thermostat

 

I have a Force 10 stove on Kaylarah and it annoys me that the oven doesn't have 
a thermostat (just a simple valve like the top burners).  Has anyone ever tried 
to put a thermostat in the oven of a Force 10 stove?

 

Gary

S/V Kaylarah 

'90 C&C 37+

East Greenwich, RI, USA

-- 

~~~_/)~~

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Re: Stus-List Southern Nova Scotia

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

These are helpful, we’re also planning a trip to Nova Scotia next month.  My 
crew signaled mutiny if I took our boat so it’s the ferry from Portland to 
Yarmouth.  I’m hoping the weather is good for putting the top down on my wife’s 
Mustang.

 

Ron  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2017 6:53 AM
To: C&c Stus List
Cc: Dave S
Subject: Re: Stus-List Southern Nova Scotia

 

Marek - I happen to have a summer home in Shelburne NS, (since the 90s) and 
know the area quite well. To add to Dan's comments, there is lots to do on the 
low-key south shore.  Lunenburg, mahone bay, peggy's cove are the tourists' 
staples but also consider Keji seaside adjunct, some amazing beaches - Roseway, 
Carters, others,  Drive out to Cape Sable Island.   A bit of a hike but if you 
can go whale watching from Brier island (birthplace of Josh Slocum) you will 
likely have an amazing experience.   Also Shelburne is worth a day, check out 
the small museums, (incl some boatbuilding stuff) events at the Osprey Arts 
Centre and reserve for dinner at Charlotte lane.   Visiting the smaller towns 
gives you a more authentic sense of things - always take a moment to visit the 
fisherman's memorials, Check the dates, surnames, 1929 as an example - conveys 
how these communities were and are very integrated with the sea.Just 
driving the "old highway" will bring you to some spectacular places.   

 

Contact me off list if any questions.

 

Dave  33-2

 

 

 


-- Forwarded message --
From: John Irvin <  skis...@outlook.com>
To: "  cnc-list@cnc-list.com" < 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: 
Bcc: 
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2017 19:34:56 +
Subject: Re: Stus-List Southern Nova Scotia

Don't miss Mahone Bay.

Sent from my iPhone


On Aug 18, 2017, at 1:32 PM, Dan via CnC-List <  
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Mahone Bay is a joy, but old town Lunenburg has lots of good food, shops, 
museums and history to check out. You will want to see "The Ovens" - look it up 
on google. It's not far from there and should not be missed. If you've got the 
time you could check out some local beaches or go into LaHave on the light 
house route. Airbnb has some really good deals around there worth checking out. 
Have Fun!!

 

Dan

C&C44

Halifax NS

 

On Fri, Aug 18, 2017 at 2:25 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List < 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hi,

 

My wife and I are going on vacation to Nova Scotia (we will be just outside of 
Lunenburg) and I was wondering if any of the listers, who know the place quite 
well, could provide some inside knowledge (where to go, what to see, what to 
avoid etc.). If some of that involves sailboats or sailing, that would be a 
bonus. We are planning to visit the Bluenose II, but this is as far as I got 
with sailing-related activities.

 

Any ideas would be welcome.

 

Btw. we are not taking to boat to get there (I would have to retire or quit my 
job if I wanted to) (;-)

 

thanks

 

Marek

Ottawa, ON

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Re: Stus-List wheel squeak

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

I’d go 100% with Edson even if more expensive.  They are a quality and customer 
oriented company.

 

We’re fortunate to be close to Edson.  My wife needed help stitching on a 
replacement wheel cover.  They offered to have me bring the wheel to them and 
then demonstrated how to do it.  When I rebuilt my 37+’s steering, they had the 
details on my system including the designer of the boat.  I overheard, “Hey 
Rob, we have one of your boats”.  When I ordered a few small parts on line 
which cost less than the shipping, someone called me to say the order was no 
charge.  

 

Little things matter.  For example, the stainless steel steering cables are cut 
to length with a torch (similar to cutting line with a hot knife) so the ends 
don’t unwind.

 

There are very few businesses like Edson around anymore.  

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 



 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2017 9:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak

 

This brings up a good point - As for the cables, where would folks here buy 
them?  Directly from Edson (expensive) or is there a less expensive, but still 
good quality alternative (say from McMaster Carr, Grainger, etc.)?

 

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
  bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

 

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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter funnel search

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Dennis,  

 

I use a jiggle pump (siphon) to transfer fuel from a 5 gallon can to my tank.  
No holding, no funnel and no mess!  Try 
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVAIL76/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8
 

 &psc=1.  

 

Ron

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 8, 2017 12:07 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List Fuel filter funnel search

 

Touche' came with a decent fuel funnel with fine screen in the bottom.  I think 
it's an old EZ-John funnel.  Used it for years but it is very slow.  Not fun 
holding a 5 gallon diesel can for 10 minutes while the fuel drains so slow.

 

I bought one of the Mr. Funnel F3 fuel funnels.  While it passes the diesel 
much quicker, you're left with a couple ounces of diesel in the funnel.  The 
design is such that any water would be left in this small residual.

 

It's a pain to deal with that couple ounces left in the funnel's sump.  I 
usually carefully remove the funnel, put the old funnel in the fill fitting and 
pour it in there.  Now I'm left with two wet funnels.

 

I've searched the Internet for a fuel filter funnel that doesn't have the water 
trapping sump design.  I see Mr. Funnel, Racor and others but they all have the 
water trapping sump.

 

I'm about to mix up a batch of epoxy and fill the sump up to the bottom of the 
filter screen but that seems like an aggressive solution.  I have a Racor 500 
to trap water so I'm not overly concerned about removing water.

 

Any slick ideas out there?

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List C&C 35 MK3 for sale

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Dave,

 

Your boat sailed by our mooring in Bristol last weekend.  It is a sharp looking 
boat.  Good luck with selling it to a (lucky) new owner.

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 7, 2017 3:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: davidjaco...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List C&C 35 MK3 for sale

 

Fellow C&C owners,

 

After sailing her for 4 years Saltaire, my 1984 C&C 35 MK3 is going up for 
sale. 

 

Since I've owned her I've added the following;

 

2014

Rod Rigging

Quantum Sails Main

Quantum Sails 135%

 

2015

Raymarine aSeries Chart Plotter, GPS and Depth

Raymarine i50 Speed

Raymarine i60 Wind instrument

NMEA2000 Network

Pressure hot and cold water

Bottom stripped, new barrier coat and paint

Transmission rebuilt

Port lights replaced

 

2016

145% North 3D Headsail

2 blade FlexFold prop

 

Next purchases would be new North racing main and new traveler cars.

 

Saltaire, located in Bristol RI sails beautifully and is very competitive at 
her cruising class rating of 149. There are 3 spinnakers that unfortunately 
I've not used but appear to be in very good condition. Asking price is $34K. If 
anyone on the list is interested please let me know.

 

Dave J

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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter funnel search

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Marek,
After fueling, I hold hose vertical so fuel drains.  After waiting about 15
seconds, I coil hose about 8" diameter, wrap in absorbent towel and store
in Ziploc bag.
Ron

On Sep 9, 2017 7:35 AM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Ron,
> What do you do with the wet fuel hose after the transfer. There is always
> some diesel left in it.
>
> Marek
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Perko sea strainer failed - almost lost my boat!

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Joel,

 

You were lucky.  I think my sea strainer is above the waterline.  Regardless, 
I’m going to check it out. 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2017 10:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Stus-List Perko sea strainer failed - almost lost my boat!

 

Yesterday as we were sailing back to the dock one of my crew yelled 'there's a 
lot of water down here'.  I opened the companionway steps and saw water coming 
out of the top of the sea strainer as the water was reaching the top of it.

 

I closed the seacock and we manned the manual pump.  Once the water was below 
the floorboards we let the electric do its job.

 

One of the arms that held the lid in place broke at the lower end.  Luckily we 
were aboard and found the leak.  There was not excessive corrosion on the 
strainer, so I don't think the weakness could have been detected.  Time to 
re-think leaving seacocks open when I'm off the boat!


 

-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Perko sea strainer failed - almost lost my boat!

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Joel,

Thanks for the heads up.  I just got to my boat today and checked it.  The
top of the strainer is about 2" above the waterline and the bolts are OK.
For an emergency I'd consider bypassing the strainer.  It looks like a
coupling could be made up using part of one of the hose connectors.

Ron

On Sep 11, 2017 11:06 AM, "Joel Aronson"  wrote:

> Dennis, Exact same one and same failure point.  Left it closed, sailed
> near the dock and called BoatUS to get us in the slip.
>
> I didn't have a wooden plug large enough to block the hole and doubt a
> could have rigged a temporary replacement with the stuff on-board.
>
> Ron, Thanks.  I know!  Hopefully everyone will inspect theirs!
>
> Joel
>
> On Mon, Sep 11, 2017 at 10:58 AM, Ron Ricci 
> wrote:
>
>> Joel,
>>
>>
>>
>> You were lucky.  I think my sea strainer is above the waterline.
>> Regardless, I’m going to check it out.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> *Ron*
>>
>> Ron Ricci
>>
>> S/V Patriot
>>
>> C&C 37+
>>
>> Bristol, RI
>>
>> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Joel
>> Aronson via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Monday, September 11, 2017 10:25 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Joel Aronson
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Perko sea strainer failed - almost lost my boat!
>>
>>
>>
>> Yesterday as we were sailing back to the dock one of my crew yelled
>> 'there's a lot of water down here'.  I opened the companionway steps and
>> saw water coming out of the top of the sea strainer as the water was
>> reaching the top of it.
>>
>>
>>
>> I closed the seacock and we manned the manual pump.  Once the water was
>> below the floorboards we let the electric do its job.
>>
>>
>>
>> One of the arms that held the lid in place broke at the lower end.
>> Luckily we were aboard and found the leak.  There was not excessive
>> corrosion on the strainer, so I don't think the weakness could have been
>> detected.  Time to re-think leaving seacocks open when I'm off the boat!
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551 <(301)%20541-8551>
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551 <(301)%20541-8551>
>
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All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

I’d be cautious about using a shop vac to blow air into a potable water system. 
 Even if you remove the filter and clean the tank, there are plenty of places 
for all the bacteria contained in that detritus you sucked out of a bilge 
pocket to hide.  It’s no problem if you don’t drink your water or use the 
vacuum to suck water out of your system.

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 9, 2017 5:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing

 

Instead of an air compressor I use a shop vac set on blow instead of suck.  I 
have fewer fears of over pressuring the system and a small 1 gallon shop vac is 
great for around the boat anyway.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

 

On Mon, Oct 9, 2017, 3:32 PM Tom Lynch via CnC-List  
wrote:

Marek,

 

Thank you for your very detailed procedure.   

 

What type and size of air compressor what you recommend for this job?

 

On Mon, Oct 9, 2017 at 2:37 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Tom,

 

This is how I do it:

 

1.  drain water from the fresh water tank (does not need to be completely empty)

2. drain water from the water heater

3. highly advisable - install a water heater by-pass (multiple models available 
from RV supply; but I strongly suggest getting one with TWO valves ( 

 
https://www.amazon.ca/Valterra-P23503LFVP-Water-Heater-Pass/dp/B00HSO57LS/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1507576917&sr=1-2&keywords=water+heater+bypass)
 

4.  disconnect the system from the pump (above the pump)

5. - purge any remnants of water from the system using compressed air (for that 
you may need an adapter that can be purchased from any RV place or online 
(e.g.:   
https://www.amazon.ca/Camco-36143-Brass-Quick-Connect/dp/B002XL2IEA) - you may 
need to MacGyver an adapter using the above and various length of hose, nipples 
etc.).

6. when you do it, close all faucets and then open one at a time (do it for 
each faucet on cold and hot water)

7. this would be especially complicated for hot water, as your heater would 
have plenty of water to be purged.

8. engage the water heater bypass

9. disconnect pump from the supply line from the tank.

10. attach to the pump a length of appropriate hose and put it into a jug of 
antifreeze

11. run the pump drawing AF from the jug until the pink stuff comes out of each 
and every faucet

12. repeat 4.-6., this time to evacuate any remnants of AF

 

You would need to modify this list to get the water out of the galley pump and 
water lines. It would be a modification of 4.-6. Or is the foot pump getting 
water from the lake? If so, you simply close the through-hull, disconnect the 
hose, put it into the AF jug and pump. (btw. the same procedure as for the 
supply side of the head).

 

If you have a cockpit shower, don’t forget it in your procedure

 

Never put AF into the water heater - it is difficult to drain, you would need 
5-6 gal of it to fill it, supposedly, it can turn into a cotton-candy-like 
mush, if heated and you would have a hard time getting the taste out of the 
water after this.

 

If you have an ice-box, the chances are that you have a pump that pumps out 
water from the bottom of it. Make sure that you winterise it, as well.

 

If you have a drain in the head (shower sump?), make sure that you winterise 
it, as well.

 

I hope I don’t need to mention that you need to winterise properly the head. It 
is not enough to just put some AF into the bowl and pump it out. You need to 
put AF into the supply side, as well.

 

If this list scares you, it should not; it is much easier than it sounds.

 

Marek

 

1994 C270 ”Legato”

Ottawa, ON

(the above procedure is still ahead of me, but I usually do it on the hard)

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom Lynch 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 9, 2017 14:59
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Lynch 
Subject: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing

 

What's the best practice for Winterizing the fresh water system?  

 

My system:

 

40 gallon tank estimated 

Water heater 

Pressurized water pump

2 fixtures hot / cold from the pump 

1 fixture in the galley from a foot pump. 

 

My boat is on Lake Superior northern WI.  And no I cannot sail it to warmer 
climate for the winter.  

 

Tom Lynch

S/V IndoIrish

C&C 33 MKII

Bayfield WI - Lake Superior 

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund 

Re: Stus-List Aqua Signal Impossible Bolt

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Dave,

 

I have one left over from when I replaced a broken fixture.  It may still be
on my boat as I couldn't find it here at home.  Give me a chance to look on
my boat and, if necessary, go through my boat stuff again.  If I find it, I
can mail it to you.

 

Ron   

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2017 6:44 PM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Stus-List Aqua Signal Impossible Bolt

 

So I have a Series 41 Aqua Signal Bow light.  Dont ask me how but the bolt
that keeps it all together deep sixed.

 

No problem, I said as it went in, I can get another one from Aqua Signal.
Three emails.  No response.

 

So I have been trying to find a 3 1/4" long # 4 bolt.   Seems like a holy
Grail bolt to me.

 

Any suggestions?

 

Thanks, once again, in advance.

 

1981 40-2

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Re: Stus-List baby stay

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Rob,

 

I have one of those bendy masts with 3 spreaders and contemplated removing
the baby stay.  Rather than find out it was really needed at an inopportune
time, I installed a 4' PVC tube with a cap from a turnbuckle boot over the
stay.  The jib sheets are less likely to snag on the stay.  Better but not
perfect.

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2017 9:10 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List baby stay

 

My 1984 C&C 32 has a very robust mast.as was stated "more like an
aluminum telephone pole",  nevertheless Rob Ball decided to outfit the rig
with a baby stay and for that reason, it stays on the boat.  It is a PITA
when tacking but you get to know your boat and learn how to make efficient
tacks by back winding the genoa to avoid the sail catching on the baby stay.


I am confident that the boat would perform fine without the baby stay on
most day sails but since it is there, it will be attached and tensioned.
Maybe on these rigs, the baby stay helps to induce 'rake' on these otherwise
'aluminum telephone poles'.

There was another C&C 32 84 at our club whose owner took the baby stay off
completely and he didn't appear to have any issues with his rig.

If I had one of the C&C models with the bendy masts, 3 spreaders, etc. I
would definitely keep the baby stay tensioned.  We raced a 34R for several
years and I can assure you that boat benefited from a tensioned baby stay. 

So for me, if the boat designer thought a baby stay was needed, then I will
use it.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S. 

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--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Doug,

 

I “copied” Gary’s design and am happy with the results.  My rudder shaft did 
not have a keyway (Gary’s had one) so I ended up having to drill a 3/8” hole 
through a 3” stainless steel tube with ½” thick walls.  Edson makes an 
appropriate tiller arm with a 3/8” hole pre-drilled.  I used a drill bushing to 
start with a 1/8” pilot hole.  If you end up having to drill your shaft, let me 
know.  I have a drill bushing 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug 
Allardyce via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2017 12:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Doug Allardyce
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

 

Thank again Gary. This is very helpful. You did a great job laying everything 
out and then executing. No mysteries now on what needs to be done. Great 
installation.

 

Doug Allardyce 
_/)~~~_/)  

-Original Message-



 

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The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List PFD sale

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Use the code AC697 at checkout.  It appears in the link. You’ll get an Active 
Captain credit.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 2, 2017 12:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List PFD sale

 

I tried the link, which lists the price as you state.  However, when I add the 
PFDs to the cart, I get the $74.99 price.

 

From:   Joel Aronson via CnC-List 

Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2017 10:08 AM

To:   cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc:   Joel Aronson 

Subject: Stus-List PFD sale

 

 

We have 2 of these.

 

This week the Defender 1st exclusive offer is an incredible value.  The
USCG approved Crewsaver Crewfit 35 Sport Inflatable PFDs are available
in both manual and automatic models. They incorporate Crewsaver's
"Fusion" 3D technology, so the PFD molds to the shape of your body.  Its
form-fitting neckline offers complete freedom of movement and maximizes
comfort. These life jackets feature 35 lbs. of buoyancy. The built-in,
unique chin support keeps your head tilted back so airways remain clear.
Its bladder will turn you on your back, and support your head. The
Crewsaver Crewfit 35 Sport can be fitted with a personal AIS device for
added safety, and all lifejackets include a light attachment point,
which is essential if you are making a long voyage or night passage.

The Crewsaver Crewfit 35 Sport Inflatable PFDs are available in (3)
colors: Red, Blue and Navy.

Hurry! This offer is limited to stock on hand, so get yours while
supplies last!

Check out all the details and get the AC code at the link below.

Crewsaver Crewfit 35 Sport USCG Inflatable PFD Manual Activation:
$34.99. (Special Buy Price: $74.99, Regularly: $119.99, List: $149.99)

Crewsaver Crewfit 35 Sport USCG Inflatable PFD Automatic Activation:
$39.99 (Special Buy Price: $79.99, Regularly: $131.99, List: $165.99)

Special ends: November 7, 2017 at 11:59 PM ET

Get the special price and learn more at:
  
http://www.defender.com/activecaptain.jsp

Wow, you will not find a great price like anywhere. Ensure your crew is
safe, you can't afford not to. But hurry supplies are limited.


 

-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

  _  

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
-- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List Pfd

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Here's a link to a Mustang bobbin that calls for replacement of the bobbin
every three years:
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C135%7C2290066%7C2290076&id=66
6701.  It states that this is to prevent inadvertent inflation.  My guess is
that you could safely extend the interval since it appears that the mode of
failure is "fail-safe".  The downside is that you could waste a good CO2
cartridge and may have your PFD stuck inside a locker.  A friend just
purchased one of these PFD's since one of his actuated inside a locker.
Best to inspect the entire actuator annually.  

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C&C 37+
Bristol, RI
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2017 10:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pfd

The maintenance record on the two auto inflate PFDs I bought show they were
made in October, 2015. Is it possible the bobbins in yours are marked with a
2015 manufacturing date and not an expiration date?
The maintenance for the PFDs calls for visual inspection of the green ring
in the inflator dome and of the green/red tab on the manual trigger, but I
don't recall an expiration date or a recommended replacement interval on the
bobbins.

On mine, the slider of the zipper IS on the end over the inflation mechanism
when the zipper is closed. And the zipper is a big improvement over the
Velcro strips on the Sospenders and West Marine PFDs I've bought previously.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC



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Re: Stus-List Removing companionway slider plexiglass, C&C 37/40+

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

See below for emails from my boatyard when they replaced my hatch.  Photos can 
be found at:  https://1drv.ms/f/s!AhpB-lul9d5YqTvkapMRJyXOGr2V

 

Your boat may be different.  The new skylight appears to be held in place with 
adhesive.  I did not see any evidence of VHB tape.  The sliders were also 
replaced with something a little thicker (and more substantial).

 

Hope this helps,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

  _  

Ron,

 

See email below from Dan.  It appears the skylight was adhered with epoxy, and 
we will need to do some gelcoat repairs to the opening.  Also, see his comment 
about the companionway hatch slides.

 

Mark

 

 

Mark DeStefano

Service Coordinator

 

From: Dan Murphy 
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2013 9:27 AM
To: Mark DeStefano
Subject: RE: Patriot

 

Thanks for the info Mark. 

 

Here are those pictures we discussed. As mentioned, the hatch is coming up, but 
fighting all the way. Whatever they used for glue was the real deal and there 
is some delamination to the hatch perimter frame that will need repair. 

Also, we need to replace the sliders. Delrin or starboard is likely the best 
bet. 

 

We don't have an estimate yet but can work something out for the customer if he 
needs a number.

 

Thanks,

Dan

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Surveyor

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bill,

 

I purchased Patriot in Annapolis and used Fred Wise.  Here’s his contact info:

Fred Wise Yacht Survey, LLC

Accredited Marine Surveyor

14154 Gregg Neck Road

Galena, Maryland 21635

410 648 5052

Fax 410 648 6857

 

He is knowledgeable and thorough.  Sorry I can’t find an email address.  

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of coltrek via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2017 12:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: coltrek
Subject: Stus-List Surveyor

 

 looking for a recommendation for a good surveyor in the Annapolis Area please.

 

 

 

Regards,

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39

 

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Re: Stus-List Experience with exp system epoxy

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Doug,

 

Total Boat clear penetrating epoxy sealer 
(https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=97636) 
does a good job sealing the sides and bottom.  I cut it 50% with denatured 
alcohol and put on two coats.  For the surface, use a good quality varnish.  
I’ve used several thinned coats of Epifanes Clear Varnish for a base with a 
couple of thinned coats of their rubbed effect varnish.  The former adds UV 
protection and the latter gives a nice soft finish.  I would not put epoxy on 
the surface.

 

Once I tried to make a section of “non-skid” cabin sole by sprinkling salt 
crystals over wet varnish.  After the varnish dried, I washed of the salt.  
Thankfully, I experimented with a piece of plywood.  The surface wasn’t that 
rough.  Have any other listers tried this?

 

Ron

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug Welch 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2017 11:40 AM
To: CnClist
Cc: Doug Welch
Subject: Stus-List Experience with exp system epoxy

 

I am installing a new teak and holly veneer cabin sole on my 33-2 and was going 
to seal it with west system 105/207 until I ran across exp system which seem 
similar but less expensive.  Does anyone have experience with exp system they 
can share? I would like to save some money on the epoxy but not at the risk off 
screwing up the very expensive veneer ($550/sheet):)

 

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 

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Re: Stus-List CO detector choices

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Dave,

 

I spent some time web surfing and found that there are Marine extensions for UL 
2304.  Someone contacted Kidde to see if their units met the standard and 
struck out.  I no longer have access to UL standards so I can’t check to see 
what they are.  My guess is that if you really want (and have to) comply with 
the standard, you’ll have to pony up for the marine unit.

 

Just an aside, the business I used to own was certified to apply a UL 508 
(industrial controls) label on equipment we our shop built.  Periodically, we 
were inspected and one time were told that the ground bar we used did not cut 
the mustard because it “was not in our procedure”.  If you go look in the 
circuit breaker box in your house you’ll see a similar ground bar.  For 
something in the order of $2,000, UL would “investigate” it and “add” to our 
procedure.  Go figure if it’s really worth spending the extra bucks on a UL 
“Marine” CO detector.

 

My CO detector is due for replacement.  I am having a hard time spending over 
$100 for a $25 UNIT.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Castor 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2017 3:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Castor
Subject: Re: Stus-List CO detector choices

 

UL 2034 is the applicable standard.  It covers residential, RV and marine 
applications.  But it contains specific additional requirements for use on 
boats.  So I'm guessing if it does not state is rated for marine or boat use, 
it doesn't meet these supplemental requirements.  Not sure what they are.  
There used to be a separate UL standard for boat CO detectors, but it was 
deleted and those requirements were added to UL 2034 as additional requirements 
for marine use.

Dave Castor

 

On Mon, Nov 27, 2017 at 12:44 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:

My original coal mine CO detector died long ago. I replaced it with a Xintex 
marine CO detector. It is now old enough to need replacement or a factory 
refurb if they will do it. That will cost either $140 or so for new or $25 for 
a refurb. So I was in the hardware store and what do you know – a home CO 
detector for $25 brand new and it runs on batteries.

Does anyone have any idea if these are suitable for a boat? I am going to get 
something, no way do I want people sleeping below without some kind of alarm.

 

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina


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Re: Stus-List wire gauge

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bev,

 

Patriot’s battery wiring was upgraded last year.  I used 2/0 from the battery 
negative terminals to the common tie point on the engine block and #2 from the 
battery positive terminals to the battery switch and then to the starter.  #2 
was the largest size that could be easily fit on the battery switch.  Each 
battery has a 200 amp terminal mounted fuse to protect the cabling.  After 
rewiring, I noticed a marked improvement in performance. 

 

My #1 bank is a single group 31 battery located under the settee in the forward 
part of the main cabin.  Even with the longer distance to the starter, the 
engine cranks fine.  The #2 bank is two group 31 batteries located under the 
aft part of the settee (just forward of the galley sink).  I use the #2 bank 
for house loads and keep the #1 battery in reserve for starting the engine.  
With ALL or even just the #2 battery selected, I can start the engine without 
‘rebooting’ the chart plotter.

 

I’d also suggest borrowing the correct crimping tool and dies (such as Thomas & 
Betts TBM6S) to make sure the connections at the lugs are solid.  

 

Good luck at rewiring your boat,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bev Parslow 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 1, 2017 1:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bev Parslow
Subject: Stus-List wire gauge

 

What is the best gauge for wiring the battery to the engine? Do I need to go to 
1 or 2. We have a voltage drop from 12 to 8 volts.

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Re: Stus-List Keel bolt torque

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Last season, I ended up having my boatyard doing this.  I have no idea of the 
last time this was done but it was before 2010.  The boatyard used Ken Heaton’s 
torque values.  In order to loosen some of the nuts, an impact tool was 
required. - Ron  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 2, 2018 3:18 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Stus-List Keel bolt torque

 

Ok Guys,

Since I have the mast out, this provides the rare opportunity to access ALL of 
the keel bolts.  I've measured each of the bolt and nut diameters and checked 
the archives for torque specs.  I intend to buy a toque multiplier and the 
appropriate sized sockets.  I think I can do it for less than the yard is going 
to charge and I'll come out of it with some tools.  I'll also be able to tell 
myself that it was done correctly.

 

That being said it sounds like the best practices are are follows:

-  be on the hard

- loosen the bolts one at a time, clean, and lubricate with tef-gel

- reinstall and torque at progressively higher levels.

 

I was unable to find the torque spec for my 1.5" bolt in the website but Ken 
Heaton cited 600lbs in one of his past responses.

 

Keel bolts (fwd to aft):

 Nut   stud   torque

1 - 1 1/2 (38mm)1 (25mm)  350

2 - 2 3/16 (56mm)  1 1/2 (38mm)  600?

3 - 2 3/16 (56mm)  1 1/2 (38mm)  600?

4 - 2 3/16 (56mm)  1 1/2 (38mm)  600?

5 - 1 7/8 (47.5mm)1 1/4 (32mm)   450

6 - 2 3/16 (56mm)  1 1/2 (38mm)  600?

7 - 1 1/2 (38mm)1 (25mm)  350

8 - 3/4 (19.5mm)1/2 (13mm)  80

 

 

Anything I'm missing?

 

 

Thanks,

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD 

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Stus-List C&C 37+ Rudder Bearings

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

I'm wondering if anyone else has run into any similar issues with their
rudder.  

 

At the top of the rudder shaft , just below the radial wheel there is a
through bolt with two skate wheels that support the rudder.  The wheels ride
on a flat steel donut shaped bushing which has approximately a 3"ID and
4"OD.  My wheels are frozen and do not turn.  When the rudder is turned, the
wheels drag on bushing and rotate it.  I've tried to reach in, turn the
wheels and spray in a lubricate but no luck.  It looks like I may have to
remove the radial wheel for access and possibly replace the wheels.  

 

Given the radial wheel has been in place for 25 years, could there be issues
removing it?  Does anyone know a source for skate wheels?

 

There is also a bushing (around the rudder shaft) between the rudder and the
hull.  With the boat on the hard, the bushing is free to move and rotate
around the rudder shaft.  I guess when the rudder lifts up, the bushing
provides a bearing surface.  Does this sound correct?

Thanks,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

 

 



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Re: Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet?

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

I had a similar problem with my pedestal guard and used butyl rubber.  The 
pedestal guard with feet were moved up after loosening the set screws that hold 
it to the pedestal structure.  This allowed butyl rubber to be placed around 
the threaded part of the feet.  The pedestal guard was then pushed back down so 
the butyl rubber filled the penetrations in the deck.  The pedestal guard feet 
are held against the deck.  It worked.

 

The cables run inside the pedestal guard and under the “bubble” located 
top/aft/centerline in the aft cabin headliner.  Without removing the cables, I 
could not remove the pedestal guard.  It looked like the bottom of the feet 
were threaded and designed to take a lock nut.  If the above fix above did not 
work, I considered drilling holes in the “bubble” and adding lock nuts to hold 
the feet down..

 

Ron 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2018 4:50 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet?

 

Hello all,

 

We have a 1994 C&C 37/40+, and we are replacing the stern and v berth mattress 
foam and fabric.  I have noticed a very small leak which is coming from the 
starboard pedestal guard foot, where the bolts and wires penetrate the cockpit 
floor.  We have stopped the vast majority of the leak by applying a small layer 
of aluminum duct tape at the point where the stainless tubing penetrates the 
stainless foot. There is a hard plastic spacer that fills the gap between the 
tube & the foot, but it doesn't seem to be made of the proper material to be 
properly water resistant.

 

So, I expect this leaves us with water coming in under the foot itself, where 
it is bolted through the floor of the cockpit itself (which is finished with 
teak).  

 

What would you suggest as to the best way to seal this?  The leak we get is 
coming down over the stern berth, and I sure don't want leaks staining our new 
fabric!  

 

I am thinking about loosening the feet & lifting up the pedestal guard, and 
applying butyl rubber to the bottom.  If that works, great.  But, how would I 
also more permanently stop water ingress due to water finding its way between 
the tube and the foot?

 

Thanks for your ideas!

 

Bruce Whitmore

 

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
  bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

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Re: Stus-List Masthead sheaves C&C 37+

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Josh,

 

My sheaves seemed to be original as I could not find anything from the FO 
indicating they had ever been replaced. Patriot’s mast was out last winter and 
my rigger said her sheaves were fine.  They did not have a groove for wire 
rope. 

 

I think my halyards are 7/16 with a  1/2” groove.  Each winter, I pull 3/8” 
messenger lines in place of the halyards.  The extra space makes it easy to 
connect the messenger to the reeving eye on the halyard.  I’d suggest keeping 
the 1/2" groove.

 

Just my thoughts,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

(978) 877-0369

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 22, 2018 3:17 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Stus-List Masthead sheaves C&C 37+

 

I have a new problem for the collective wisdom.

 

I'm getting the masthead sheaves re-made by Ed at Zephyrwerks.  He made my boom 
end sheaves 2 years ago and did a great job.  I have a 1/2" wide sheave box for 
3 sheaves.  He cut them with a slight relief and cut the groove for a 1/2" 
line.  I had told him that I simply didn't want to needlessly limit my options 
in the future despite only using 5/16ths or 3/8ths for the reefing lines.

 

Now 2 years later I'm in a similar situation except the masthead sheave boxes 
are 5/8ths wide.  I can't exactly recall but I believe that I'm running 3/8ths 
halyards.  When I talked to Ed he advised that he would like to cut the groove 
to match the line which is on the boat. 3/8ths. But also stated that he could 
cut it however I desired. It seems unnecessarily limiting of my options in the 
future to cut a 3/8ths groove. It is far easier to run 3/8ths on a 1/2 inch 
groove than 1/2 inch on a 3/8ths groom. The original sheaves were v-grooves and 
would accommodate anything from 1/4 inch wire rope up to 1/2 or even 9/16ths 
line.  And we haven't even talked about the added thickness of a core to core 
eye splice.


Anybody want to share their thoughts? 


Thanks,


Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD

 



•••

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Re: Stus-List "Maritime Documentation Center"

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

I also received the notice.  Somehow, the USCG Documentation Center enables 
these guys by providing mailing the list of documented boats.  They are taking 
advantage of an opportunity created when the $26.00 charge was created.  You’ll 
notice that before the government started trying to ‘cover’ their costs, there 
was no fee and no annoying “Maritime Documentation Center”.  While $26 is a 
small number considering what it costs to own a boat, it is a lot to process 
the paperwork.  Our government seems no better than these guys.  

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

(978) 877-0369

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 10:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Stus-List "Maritime Documentation Center"

 

Just got my EARLY supposed Documentation Renewal from the "Maritime 
Documentation Center"

 

I think the USCG must have taken heed of all the complaints, as these people 
have really toned down their ‘Renewal’

There is no amount to pay, and now little bits in there like , This is a 
courtesy notice,  This is not an invoice,  you are under no obligation to pay, 
etc – 

Things that were not in their notice in past years.

 

I am sure they will still snag some people who are either not paying attention, 
or are too busy to notice.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1

 

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Stus-List Force 10 Galley Range - Thermostat

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Patriot has a 1991 version of a 3-burner Force 10 propane stove with oven.
The temperature control on the oven is totally manual.  New versions of the
same stove (Galley Gourmet Range) have a thermostatically controlled oven.

 

The newer stove looks pretty much the same as the older stove.  it seemed
that newer stove's oven control valve could be installed on the older stove.
I contacted Force 10 and they said this had never be done and the new valve
would not fit on the older stove.

 

Has anyone tried adding the new Force 10 control valve or done anything to
similar?  

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

(978) 877-0369

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

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Re: Stus-List 37/40 Fuel tank removal

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Alan,

My fuel tank was removed in 2011 to access the strut.  I had my boatyard do
it and didn't think there were any issues.  The tank was not removed from
the boat and may have only been lifted out of the way to get to the  strut
fasteners.  It could be hard to remove the hoses.  

Could it be possible that the tank was bedded on a sealant?

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C&C 37+
Bristol, RI
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

   

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alan
Liles via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2018 9:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Alan Liles
Subject: Stus-List 37/40 Fuel tank removal

I am trying to remove the fuel tank in a 1994 37/40. I have removed the aft
berth to expose the tank top. I have removed the two hold down cleats (cut
down 2x4 screwed to the tank well sides at the top). The tank still seems
very solid, but I can't see anything else holding it. Has anyone else done
this?

Alan Liles
SV Elendil
Vancouver BC


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Re: Stus-List Mast boot and keel bolts

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Brien,

As a fellow submariner, I sympathize about water in the people tank.  During 
off-season, I get a small amount in my bilge and have taken a few steps to 
limit this.  The first thing is to put something in the luff track to 
divert/stop the down the mast.   When winterizing the boat, I pump/vacuum all 
water out of the bilge, add some RV anti-freeze, run the bilge pump until pink 
comes out the discharge, pull the fuses to the switch and move the float switch 
as far up as possible.  I then make sure there is a couple of gallon of 
anti-freeze in the bilge.  Periodically, when I check the boat, if there is 
some additional liquid in the bilge, I pump it with a hand pump so as not to 
"de-winterize' the bilge pump.

My preference is to keep the bilge bone dry but this is not possible without 
de-watering periodically.  As a nuke, I remember having chloride stress 
corrosion and stainless steel drilled into my head.

Straight Board and Dry Bilges,

Ron

Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C&C 37+
Bristol, RI

ron.ri...@1968.usna.com



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brien Sadler 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2018 4:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brien Sadler
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast boot and keel bolts

The only reason I worry about the mast leak is water in the bilge in the 
winter. It’s probably from being a submariner for close to 20 years, that in my 
mind water in the bilge is a big “No No”. I don’t want it turning to ice and 
causing problems. I have a bottle that catches most of the water that drips to 
the mast step, but when we have a couple of deluge days like we had yesterday 
in CT the bottle over flows into the bilge. I poured a little anti-freeze in 
the bilge at the beginning of the season to keep any over flow from freezing, 
and that worked pretty well. Since it was warm out today I vacuumed everything 
out and it’s dry but who knows in the next 2-3 months how many more 3-4 inches 
of rain days we’re going to have. Any other suggestions on rain water in the 
bilge and how to deal with it in the winter would be great.
Also, I think I’m going to leave the keel bolts just like they are and inspect 
on a regular basis. They seem to be fine and the previous owners left them that 
way and they seemed to know what they were doing. So I’ll just keep an eye on 
it. Thanks again.

Brien

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Connecrion/hose leak, shower handle to head

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

I replaced my shower valve and also the inspection port on the top of the 
holding tank.  Here’s a link to photos showing all this:  
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AhpB-lul9d5YqjuwfgDPMTngkLEw

 

Hope it helps,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bwhitmore 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2018 12:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bwhitmore
Subject: Stus-List Connecrion/hose leak, shower handle to head

 

Hello all,

 

We have a 1994 C&C 37/40 + where the shower temperature handle to shower head 
hose is leaking. Though there is an access port it is not large enough to see 
or fix the problem.   

 

Has anyone fixed this sort of problem before?

 

 

Thank you, 

 

Bruce Whitmore 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

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Re: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

I’ve cleaned mine with vinegar and applied Epifanes rubbed effect varnish.  The 
rubbed effect does not have UV inhibitors.  For areas exposed to sunlight, I 
apply clear varnish and a final coat of rubbed effect.  Last year, I did my 
companionway ladder and sanded it first.  The shade and color match.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2018 10:03 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)

 

Hello all,

 

I am about ready to start trying to repair some water-spotted, worn and dried 
out wood in our 1994 C&C 37/40+.  Does anyone know what type of varnish, 
lacquer or other treatment was used originally by C&C to finish the interior 
woodwork?  I'm talking vertical surfaces, the nav table, etc., and I'd really 
like to match the interior look it had when it came out of the showroom so I 
don't have to refinish every square inch.

 

What should I use to remove the existing coating (if I should remove it at 
all), and what would you recommend for a new coating?  

 

I've used lemon oil before, but it seems to turn the wood dark over time.  

 

I'm thinking Danish Oil, but I really don't know enough to make an informed 
decision.

 

Thanks for the insights!

 

Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
  bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

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Re: Stus-List *Reminder #1* October 26, 27, 28 - 2018 Mid-Atlantic C&C Rendezvous

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Josh,

 

We’ll be in Annapolis the preceding weekend for my Boat School 50th and will 
miss the C&C Rendezvous.   If people are looking for a place to stay on dry 
land, I’d suggest looking at Air B&B.  Even with our “special” reunion rate for 
hotels were very expensive.  

 

Several of us are staying at 
https://www.expedia.com/Annapolis-Hotels-Renovated-Historic-Home-Located-Downtown-Walk-Everywhere.h18992901.Hotel-Information?adults=2
 

 
&children=0&chkin=10%2F26%2F2018&chkout=10%2F28%2F2018®ionId=6034082&hwrqCacheKey=dea885d8-f9f8-45ea-9058-33f68560c3a0HWRQ1508334523920&vip=false&=undefined&exp_dp=365.67&exp_ts=1508334618050&exp_curr=USD&exp_pg=HSR&daysInFuture=&stayLength=&ts=1521219359274
  There are other choices.

 

Hopefully some listers might find this useful,

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 9:25 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Stus-List *Reminder #1* October 26, 27, 28 - 2018 Mid-Atlantic C&C 
Rendezvous

 

Hey folks, 

 

This is a friendly reminder for the rendezvous deadline to register with the 
Annapolis Harbor master (Beth) for a slip.  She asked that we get as many 
registrations in by March 31st as possible.  It was brought to my attention 
that moorings cannot be reserved. When I checked with Beth, she confirmed that 
moorings are exclusively first come first served but also said that finding a 
mooring shouldn't be a problem at that time of year.

 

Still looking for anyone interested in arranging extracurricular activities.  
Food, walking tours, swag, etc.

 

http://c-c-37-40.blogspot.ca/p/2018-mid-atlantic-c-rendezvous.html?m=1

 

 

All the best, 

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Spring Projects

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Chuck,

 

Last time my mast was out, I replaced the anchor light with a tri-color nav 
light & anchor light combo.  I can use this for sail power only and the visible 
range is much better.  The white portion of the tri-color alos illuminates the 
Windex.  

 

Ron

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 5, 2018 11:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck S
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spring Projects

 

Hadn't hauled the last two years so I have a rather long list. It's like a 
refit:

Rewire the mast, changed all lights to LED (mast is out)
Replace sheeves and axles
Replace upper section of furler
Removed all halyards and washed, scrubbed and soaked in Downy to soften them.
Replace two halyards, repurpose old ones
Paint mast
Replace spreader tip protectors
Repair two floor boards at home
Replace two solar fans
Heavy wet sand old bottom paint to change type, paint new
Pull chainplates and Repair wet core
Replace windows (just finished making templates)
Paint deck and paint nonskid areas with Kiwi Grip
PoliGlow the topsides
Relaunch, step the mast, tune the rig, etc




On April 3, 2018 at 1:16 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:

Listers,

 

Now that April is finally here, I was curious as to what you have planned for 
your Spring projects.

 

On the Enterprise:

 

1. Remove and service hydraulic autopilot pump 

2. Re-vinyl Starfleet markings

3. Service Refrigeration

4. Install new hot water heater

5. Paint bottom

 

… and if you’re down south somewhere and have been in the water and sailing 
already, I hate you.   


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

 





 






 


 

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every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


 

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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Modify Router to DC Power Supply

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

You may be able to purchase a 12 VDC to 12 VDC regulated power supply or
make one with an inexpensive Zener diode and a couple of resistors.

Good luck,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List C&C 37+ Sails for Sale

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

I have four genoas, two spinnakers (3/4 & 1.5 oz.) and a mainsail 
(Mylar-Kevlar) that I don’t need.  Some are in almost perfect condition and the 
others are in very good to excellent condition.  Check out the link: 

https://1drv.ms/f/s!AhpB-lul9d5YgwwnK_wNiF3vMoCA which includes a spreadsheet 
with sizes and descriptions along with folders showing detailed photos.  I’ll 
donate 2% of all proceeds to Stus-List.

 

Around May 10th, I’ll be driving to VA and could arrange to meet on way down to 
deliver.

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

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