Re: Stus-List Keel Fairing

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Zinc chromate applied to sanded metal helps the next layer to adhere.

-Original Message-
From: "Wally Bryant via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎05-‎01 2:39 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel Fairing

I'm assuming it's a lead keel.

I did spot repairs on my lead keel in 2003, and it was a good idea but 
didn't take.
 Perhaps I messed up.

A few years later I stripped the whole thing down and reworked it from 
bare lead, and that has been perfect ever since. 


Now, I can honestly say that the best way to deal with exposed lead is 
to sand it down clean and immediately sand resin into the lead.  Then 
prime and paint.

Wal

you wrote:
> While scraping and sanding the hull of our 30mk1 I knocked out a couple of
> (fairly?) large chunks of fairing on the keel. I can see metal.
>
> Can anyone advise me on the proper repair procedure please? Should I grind
> it all off or patch? What should I use?


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Spring prep

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

If it ain't broke don't fix it. Are you sure it needs attention? 

-Original Message-
From: "M Bod via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎05-‎02 2:15 PM
To: "C&C list" 
Subject: Stus-List Spring prep


This spring is challenging - the weather is just starting to warm up. Hopefully 
this weekend I can strip off the boat cover, get the boat paint done, quick 
polish/wax topsides and do some initial interior cleaning on the new boat.

Target is to splash Friday next week. Bit of a challenge because boat is an 
hour drive away.

Any advice on dealing with a stuffing box?
I've never had one before. I've read lots online. Bought new stuffing if 
required. 
As far as know there were no issues with the stuffing box previously - but 
after 3 yrs on the hard should I replace the stuffing?
Not sure if it might dry out at all?
Or should in leave well enough alone - only replace it if there is a problem?

Mark
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Cool change and Oregon Offshore Race

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Smart decision.

-Original Message-
From: "Alan Bergen via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎05-‎10 7:43 PM
To: "C&C Photoalbum email list" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cool change and Oregon Offshore Race

I received this email from Frank, this morning:


As you know, we decided not to race in the Oregon offshore.
This decision was made at 0600 Thursday morning.  All the crew members were 
in agreement not to participate in the race.
We had been monitoring the weather for the past 30 days and watching the 
trends for the offshore race course.

We knew that the race was going to be fast but that implied that the course 
would be challenging.  We were looking at weather predications from NOAA 
that included up to 40 knot gusts, 20 to 35 knot sustained winds, five foot 
swell at 9 seconds and nine foot wind waves from Grays Harbor to the Strait.

The boat was not the problem, it was the crew that I was concerned about. 
We could expect one critical boat part failure, most of us getting sick, and 
possibly one or more serious injuries.  Only three crew were experienced in 
heavy weather sailing offshore.  Our average crew members age is close to 60 
years old.  Two members being over 70 years old and one less than 50 years 
old.  Three women and 5 men on the crew.  A majority of the crew is new to 
offshore racing and have never experienced the conditions that were 
predicted for the time of the race.  Although we all wanted to race, it was 
obvious to all of us that if we experienced the conditions that were 
predicted we would most likely regret the decision to go.

Making the decision not to race was very hard for me but deciding to go and 
being responsible for a crew members injury would be even more difficult to 
endure.

For our boat, for our crew, the decision not to race in the predicted race 
course conditions was a good one.

The crew delivered the boat back to RCYC.  Nice cruise up the Columbia 
River.  Stopped at Rainer over night.  Averaged 6.7 kts through the water 
and 4.1 kts over land.

We are already preparing for next year.


Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Butyl rubber

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I buy it from apple auto glass. Its  windshield installation tape.

-Original Message-
From: "via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎05-‎18 9:14 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List Butyl rubber

Hello all
A few years back I think I read a post from someone who claimed 
that they found a place that sold very high quality Butyl rubber.
I have looked all over my records for the website that sold this stuff and I 
can't locate it does anyone remember that information? I would like to get some 
that isn't the regular stuff like you would get in RV places. High quality 
stuff is what I want to buy anyone remember that conversation a few years back. 
 Thanks Gary Kolc "Liberty"

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List water pump impeller

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

We use vaseline on Firefly.. Second impeller in 20 years.

-Original Message-
From: "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎05-‎28 8:13 AM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List water pump impeller

I have a quick question: what do you use to lube the impeller to let it survive 
a wee bit longer in the dry environment before it starts pumping water?
 
thanks
 
Marek (in Ottawa)___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Do you dry it out over the winter? If no, try a moisture meter to check. My 27 
has drain plugs  I installed to dry out over the Ontario winter..

-Original Message-
From: "Ed Dooley via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎06-‎04 5:00 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

After reading a few posts of rudder failure on C&C 24s, I thought I should look 
into mine.
It seems solid, but how do I know without drilling into it? There is a crack in 
the fiberglass at the top of the rudder,
but I can’t tell how far in it goes unless I dig into it. Any thoughts on 
exploratory surgery? I know there are some doctors on this list.  :-)
Thanks,
Ed ___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Don't  forget a lucky coin!

-Original Message-
From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎06-‎04 8:56 PM
To: "Stevan Plavsa" ; "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast

Steve,

Others have given you good advice. Just count the turns on the shrouds as you 
loosen the rig.   Use a pry bar to move it forward. No biggie. 

I put shims under my mast by loosening the rig, placing a vehicle jack under a 
winch, lifting it and sliding the shims under the butt. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 4, 2014, at 2:18 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I made a stupid newbie mistake when we stepped the mast. In my defence it was 
> a busy, windy, choppy day and we had to hire a crane to come to the club to 
> step everyone's mast .. and I helped everyone, so when it came time to do my 
> boat I was kind of on autopilot. We stepped 29 masts that day.
> 
> So I failed to remember that there are wedges fore and aft at the mast base 
> that keep the mast centered in the step. My girlfriend says to me the other 
> day while pointing at a pair of wedges in the boat .. did you forget to put 
> the wedges in the partner? Um, no I did not. Then I realized my mistake and 
> took a look at the mast base ... the mast is seated all the way aft. I guess 
> this would cause some forward rake? I'm all ears in regards to how this might 
> affect the rig, sail shape, etc? 
> 
> In any case, I'de like to center the thing and put the wedges where they are 
> supposed to go. I know I can loosen the tension on the rig and I've used 
> halyards in place of the forestay and shrouds on previous occasions to fix 
> this or that but even with the rig tension way down is the weight of the mast 
> itself going to prevent me from sliding it forward about 1.5 inches? What 
> would be the correct order to loosen the rig? Backstay, lowers, uppers? I'de 
> rather not futz with the forestay if I can help it but I did just disconnect 
> it about a week ago to fix a kink in the furler so I'm not shy to do it again.
> 
> Any help/recommendations are much appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

They just have tiny contact points - no gouging.

-Original Message-
From: "Ed Dooley via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎06-‎05 1:53 AM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

No, It's hanging on the stern, outside, for a Vermont winter, 5 winters in a 
row since I've bought the boat. A moisture meter implies gouging a hole through 
the fiberglass. Is that what you're suggesting?
Ed

On Jun 4, 2014, at 7:21 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List  
wrote:


Do you dry it out over the winter? If no, try a moisture meter to check. My 27 
has drain plugs  I installed to dry out over the Ontario winter..


From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List
Sent: ‎2014-‎06-‎04 5:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question


After reading a few posts of rudder failure on C&C 24s, I thought I should look 
into mine.
It seems solid, but how do I know without drilling into it? There is a crack in 
the fiberglass at the top of the rudder,
but I can’t tell how far in it goes unless I dig into it. Any thoughts on 
exploratory surgery? I know there are some doctors on this list.  :-)
Thanks,
Ed ___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Windows

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Tooth paste works.

-Original Message-
From: "Charlie Nelson via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎06-‎11 12:41 PM
To: "colt...@verizon.net" ; "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
; "bstrat...@falconnect.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Windows

My windows don't leak but they are significantly 'crazed' (?) so that they 
admit light but it is very diffused--something like the light you might get
thru a shower door.
 
Is there a solution to cleaning them up, short of replacement, with some kind 
of chemical or rubbing compound?
 
Charlie Nelson
C&C 36 XL/kcb


cenel...@aol.com




-Original Message-
From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
To: 'Burt Stratton' ; cnc-list 
Sent: Wed, Jun 11, 2014 11:38 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Windows


http://www.selectplastics.com/
 
Or McMaster Carr, use Cast Acrylic.
 
Or Tempered Glass!
 
Bill Coleman
C&C 39
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt 
Stratton via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2014 10:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Windows
 
Hi
 
All the hatches and windows in my 1974 33 foot ¾ tonner are in need of 
replacement. All are smoked plexiglass. It looks like they would be easy to 
fabricate using the old ones as a template. Is that a reasonable assumption or 
would it be smarter to just try to find the parts and order them? Also, the bow 
lights look like the colored film (red and green) may need to be replaced.
 
I have owned this boat now for about an hour so this is truly my first rodeo. 
Just wondering if there are sources for parts for these hulls. 
 
Thanks,
Skip
 
1974 C&C 33 ¾ tonner
Narragansett Bay
Portsmouth, RI
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Black mold spots on teak interior

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Mr Clean magic eraser?

-Original Message-
From: "Jerome Tauber via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎06-‎17 2:43 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List Black mold spots on teak interior

Anyone have a recommendation for a product to remove black mold spots from 
interior teak.  Seems to have grown on the teak oil.  Jerry. C&C 27-v. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 17, 2014, at 8:46 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I can't seem to find what the cut-off date was for the 38 between the mk1 and 
> the mk2. Any ideas? I'm not buying a new boat anytime soon but you know, 
> window shopping and maintaining a short list. Sailboatdata lists the MK2 as 
> having IOR specific changes over the MK1, not sure what that means though? 
> The MK3 is a totally different boat. The 38 has really grown on me and I 
> think it's a really pretty boat. I've read that at least one or two have 
> circumnavigated and they are a lot of boat for the money. Just looking for 
> more info.
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

It never hurts to change the belt


-Original Message-
From: "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎07-‎31 3:15 PM
To: "Josh Muckley" 
Cc: "C&C List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

Josh,


I’ll head out there this weekend (weather permitting), change the belt (it’s 
been a while) and do some tests. 


Since you have a 37+ too, how do you get back there to test the alternator 
terminals? I’m considering adding an access port in my head so I can get to the 
port side of the engine. 




All the best,


Edd




Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log


On Jul 31, 2014, at 2:58 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:


Edd,
Do you have an internal or external voltage regulator (charge controller).  
Regardless the alternator is probably putting out the amount of voltage 
required by the  regulator.  Often times the voltage being supplied by the 
alternator is different than that being sensed by the regulator.  Recently one 
of the listers had his sensing line corroded to the point of falling off.  In 
this case regulator sensed too low of a battery voltage and drove the 
corresponding alternator output up...to ~33v!  Likewise if high resistance on 
the output cabling or voltage being dropped across a battery isolator diode is 
causing the regulator to think there is more voltage being sent to the 
batteries than there actually is then the regulator would drive alternator 
oupltput down.  The voltage drop across an isolation diode is about 0.7v and 
the normal full charge voltage for a standard wet lead acid battery is 14.4v.  
So 13.7v is easily explained.  If the contacts or cabling are getting old and 
corroded then the remaining 0.5v drop to 13.2v is explained.  The cabling 
included the ground connections made by mounting the alternator to the engine 
and the bonding/ground cable feom the engine to the batteries.  
Check and compare the voltage at the alternator output terminals, the battery 
terminals, and the sensing terminals.
Yes a loose belt can cause low output but you would probably hear it.  Once it 
stops slipping the output returns to normal. 
Good luck,
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons ,MD
On Jul 31, 2014 2:13 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Listers,


Lately, when the engine running, I’m seeing the voltage reach 13.2 tops when it 
used to be much higher (13.7 to 14.0). 


Is this an alternator issue or is it the belt tightness? Any suggestions would 
be much appreciated.




All the best,


Edd




Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Well done Stu. I'll be a candidate sooner rather than later.

-Original Message-
From: "Ed Dooley via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎08-‎02 12:45 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Eye can see a C&C

Congratulations Stu!
Ed

On Aug 2, 2014, at 9:49 AM, "Stu"  wrote:


Late last year, I was diagnosed as having severe cataracts in both eyes and 
they were 'ripe' for surgery.

After months' of waiting, I have had the cataracts removed from both eyes and 
new lens inserted.  Approximately 30 minutes per surgery and a wait of several 
weeks between each.

Multiple visits to the doctor for follow-ups and gallons of drops in each eye 
-- I think my brain is getting water logged.

But the good thing about it all -- after close to 60 years of wearing glasses, 
I now have better than 20/25 vision in both eyes.  Still need glasses for 
reading and won't get them prescribed for another 4-6 weeks.  At the same time, 
I should have the prescribed glasses restriction removed from my driver's 
license.

I can't believe how beautiful everything looks and the amount of detail that I 
have missed.

If you have cataracts, get them looked after as soon as possible -- you will be 
surprised at how beautiful your C&C really looks. 
 
Stu___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Thoughts on repowering with outboard

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Me three on that. The A4 is overall the best answer.

-Original Message-
From: "Gary Nylander via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎08-‎04 3:07 PM
To: "Paul and Darlene Clarke" ; "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Thoughts on repowering with outboard

Looking at all the wonderful $5-7000 suggestions. how bad is your A4? 
Does it need an infusion of the auxiliary stuff, like fuel injection instead 
of the carb and an electronic ignition? Or is the block/head/and so forth 
all history???

I would think if you have been getting nickled and dimed to death for 
years - a big in-place overhaul/update of a reasonably good A4 would be more 
economical than a 10hp outboard.

If you are looking for doing it on the cheap with a used outboard, then you 
will have to put up with a few problems. 1. The behavior in the chop is not 
good - you have a long boat and putting the motor on the back will bounce it 
in and out of the water a bunch I am on a J-24 and a J-80 and they are 
both afflicted with "prop spinning" disease. 2. The torque vs. hp 
situation - a regular outboard in the 10hp range is not built to push 5000 
pounds, it is usually pushing about 1000. The alternative of the high torque 
motor is expensive. 3. The pain in the a.. of having to hang over the stern 
to either raise the motor or tilt it on a little boat like the J-24, it 
is a bother to raise the motor mount (35 pound motor!) and then tilt it. On 
the 80 (26 feet and low transom) we just tilt it - easier. They don't make 
outboards with folding props..

If you want to get somewhat elegant, you could get rid of all the inboard 
stuff and put the outboard in a well - a couple of feet behind the keel and 
in front of the rudder. My friend's Thunderbird (26+ feet - 4500 pounds) has 
that arrangement and the motor slides up into the boat and a little trap 
door fits where it came from. Smooth, and keeps the spinning prop problem at 
a minimum.

I would go for the overhaul.

Gary
- Original Message - 
From: "Paul and Darlene Clarke via CnC-List" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2014 1:28 PM
Subject: Stus-List Thoughts on repowering with outboard


My wife and I are beginning to think it may be time to convert our C & C 27, 
which we’ve had for 5 years, to a transom-mounted outboard engine from its 
original (1972) Atomic 4. Any listers have experience with a project like 
this, advice, or suggestions? The boat is sound, of course, as is the rig 
and sails, but the A4 engine is requiring infusions of $$ every year, and is 
not reliable. Every year we’ve been scuppered, and I want reliability 
without the cost of a new inboard… hence the idea to try the outboard route. 
Thoughts?
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Good thing the border is close for most boat owners.

-Original Message-
From: "Peter Fell via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎08-‎05 1:58 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards

It’s my understanding that Moyer won’t ship large items like blocks and rebuilt 
engines to Canada.
 
Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Replacing Rub Rail - Landfall 35

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Vim or some cleaner with a bit of grit works on the rubrail and also on dirty 
fenders.

-Original Message-
From: "Robert Boyer via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎08-‎06 1:08 PM
To: "CnC-List@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List Replacing Rub Rail - Landfall 35

I have a Landfall 38 and I replaced a short section of my rub rail a long time 
ago--it rubbed up against a piling real seriously.  It wasn't that big a 
problem but it was just a short length (maybe 3 feet long) and it was near the 
anchor well where I had good access to bolts.  If you look closely at the 
underside of the hull-to-deck joint there are both thru bolts (the permanent 
fastening) and screws (probably temporary fastening during construction).  This 
means you will have to completely remove the teak toe rail to get at the heads 
of the screws for their removal.  (You would have to remove and reinstall the 
toe rail anyway.)


Even though the part of the rub rail that sticks out beyond the hull is not 
structural or will not affect leak tight integrity, I think if you cut it off 
and put something else over it, it will look cheap.  Also, I wouldn't want to 
add a bunch of screw holes into my hull (to mount a new rub rail over the old) 
just at the structural joint between the deck and the hull.


 I can tell you that the rub rail is made from white EPDM and paint does not 
stick well to EPDM.  I'd bet you can scrape it off rather easily--you could 
also use a varnish remover to make it come off easier but be careful about this 
touching the hull.


I think that before you try some Rube Goldberg fix like putting another rub 
rail over the outside, I would try very hard to clean the paint off.  If the 
paint doesn't come off, I think I would try replacing the rub rail by removing 
the entire toe rail and all the screws.  Then, try replace just a few feet at a 
time until you are all around the perimeter of the boat.  There is probably 
enough flex in the outer part of the deck to do this.  It would be a big job 
and it would be best done out of the water.


Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com


"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List block lubricant

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Or Captain Phab

-Original Message-
From: "Pete Shelquist via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎08-‎13 1:46 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List block lubricant


We just finished a week long distance race series and during the race I
noticed that the blocks that we lube with T-9 become pretty gunked up.  We
cleaned with a solvent, rinsed with soapy water and fresh water, then
re-applied.   Same result after a day or two.  Anyone have similar
experience?   Does anyone have another product suggestion?  Anyone use
Mclube One Drop?

Thanks,
Pete
37
Lake Superior


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Rigid vang

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Very pleased with my Garhauer vang for racing and cruising.

-Original Message-
From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2015-‎09-‎29 5:33 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
Subject: Stus-List Rigid vang


Thinking about projects for the boat.
I definitely need a new main sheet system - and expect I'll go with 
Marek's Garhauer suggestion.  But that then raises the idea of a rigid 
boom vang - If I'm going to buy one in the near future it's better to 
combine shipping.
I'm not racing, and rarely use the existing vang (except for downwind to 
hold down the boom).  Currently boat is set up with a topping lift 
(which need to be replaced due to wear)

I never adjust my topping lift - I have it set so it's slack when the 
sail is fully hoisted, and then when the sail is dropped it comes taut a 
few inches lower (maybe that's why I have a hard time getting the leach 
tight - easier if if I tightened up the topping lift before hoisting?).

Any thoughts?  I've never used a rigid vang.  People happy with them?  
Given I don't adjust the topping lift I'm not seeing a big time savings 
- but maybe I should be adjusting it more?

Mark



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Available in US auto parts stores. Doesn't  ship across the border.

-Original Message-
From: "Russ & Melody via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2015-‎10-‎14 10:18 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "Russ & Melody" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?


Seafoam reminds me of the Marvel Mystery Oil claims. I can't find MMO at 
Canadian tire any more, used it in the A4 (oil & gas) regularly.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 06:47 PM 13/10/2015, you wrote:

Check this out:

http://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-motor-treatment/



Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-13 10:23 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:

I suspect most old car guys are familiar with Seafoam. Though I can't recall 
exactly what is in it. I've always used it as an additive for gasoline engines 
- boat fuel, mower fuel, oil mix for power tools and the outboard. I think of 
it as a better alternative to Stabil.

Can't say as I've ever thought about it as Diesel additive, or added it to 
engine oil. Might be a good thing to check out.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 13, 2015, at 20:43, Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:


Hi Rick,
A friend who works on cars and has a 32 foot sailboat for 25 years that looks 
better than new, suggested I use SeaFoam in both fuel and engine oil.  It's 
inexpensive and seems to make starting much easier, so I've been using that for 
the last 8 years.  I use Bio-Flo Jr when I top off the tank for winter.  Any 
thoughts on SeaFoam?

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md



From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Rick Brass" 
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 8:52:03 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

All diesel is made to the same set of standards. The red stuff just has a dye  
in it to indicate that the highway fuel tax has not been paid.

 

When your engine was built, diesel fuel had 5000 parts per million of Sulphur 
content. The Sulphur was a significant factor in lubricating the injection 
pump, injectors, etc.

 

In the mid to late 90s, in anticipation of the Tier 2 emissions standards, Low 
Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content was reduced to 500 PPM, and 
lubricity additives were incorporated in the fuel.

 

In the middle of the last decade, in anticipation of Tier 3 emission standards, 
Ultra Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content on current fuel is 
15 PPM. A new Tier 3 engine is designed to run on ULS fuel, just like a new gas 
engine is designed for ethanol.

 

Yanmar, Cummins, and Perkins (the 3 brands of diesels I used to teach 
technicians about) all recommend that you add a lubricity additive to your fuel 
if your engine was built before Tier 3 and ULS diesel became the norm. For our 
size engines that means about 2010 (1 year later in Canada). The service 
bulletins from Yanmar and Cummins (which I unfortunately lost when the laptops 
hard drive went up in smoke) both specifically recommend the additive from 
Stanadyne.

 

Even though my Universal M35B is a Tier 3 version, I still add Standyne 
lubricity additive (although I do occasional use a product from Lucas). It 
cant hurt.

 

I also put BioBor JR in the fuel as an algaecide and try to keep my tank full 
during winter storage. As Josh said, the nasties live in the water in the tank 
and eat the diesel (dont get me started on bio-diesel). An algaecide and 
reducing the chances of condensation in the tank are good policy for avoiding 
fuel filter problems.

 

Ive used about 2 tanks of fuel this year, so Im not concerned with the duel 
degrading in storage like you get with ethanol stored in a boat. Diesel can 
generally be stored for about two years without significant degradation.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 12:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard N. Bush 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

 

With apologies for re-raising a previously discussed topic; my boat is a 1985 
37 with the original Yanmar 3HMF 27 hp; I went for my annual diesel fill up and 
the pumps were out of order; so I had to get diesel from a street gas station; 
although the cost was almost a dollar per gallon cheaper, I noted that it was 
the "green" color rather than the "red" color; so my question is do I need to 
put some type of sulpher additive or something along those lines into this 
fuel? I did motor with it for an extended time on Sunday with no adverse 
effects; in addition to this question, what should I use for the upcoming 
winter layup? many thanks 

 

Richard

1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River Mi. 584;


Richard N. Bush  
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including 
unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/lis

Re: Stus-List Boat tools

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Forget duct tape. The new "Gorilla Tape" has made it obsolete. Comes in clear 
for sail repair, too.

-Original Message-
From: "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2015-‎12-‎08 5:21 PM
To: "C&C List" 
Cc: "Josh Muckley" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat tools

10 in 1 screw driver.  Does large and small hose clamps and large and small 
philips and flat. 
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002RI5EY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1449613051&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=klein+tools+10+in+1&dpPl=1&dpID=31M7C8mWD6L&ref=plSrch
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD 
On Dec 8, 2015 2:54 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  wrote:

Time for a discussion on our favorite boat tools  Aside from the usual 
collection of wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers and locking pliers, what do you 
find indispensable for boat work?


Dave said:  "For cutting consider an oscillating tool like a Fein, with a 
circular bimetal blade.   (where has this thing been all my life???) This 
is the boat repair guy's friend, second only to the angle grinder"


Yep, a vibrating saw is a valuable tool.  I have the Dremel MultiMax corded 
(the cordless ones don't have the oomph to get the job done).  Can't beat it 
for making plunge cuts and flush cuts.  Also use it with a flexible caulk 
removal blade for removing ports, hardware, etc. that is sealed with silicone, 
polyurethane, polysulfide, etc.

However, my favorite all around go to tool is this:  



For hose clamps, it's a 5/16" nut driver.  Can't imagine why anyone uses a 
screwdriver on a hose clamp if they have a nut driver.


The other tool I use a lot is a 1/4 inch shank cone grinding stone for making 
the chamfer on deck penetrations.


Every boat should have a cheap digital multi-meter on board.  

The other electrical "thingie" for cruisers is a polarity tester.  Yeah, your 
breaker panel has a little reverse polarity light but what if it's burned out?  
Get one of these:  

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449604186&sr=8-1&keywords=polarity+tester


What's your "must have" tool?


Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA







___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C shirts

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Sure would love  XL if someone could pick up. Contact me off list of it can be 
managed.

-Original Message-
From: "Dave Godwin via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2016-‎01-‎08 10:28 AM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "Dave Godwin" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C shirts

I have one of those in my closet somewhere. Got it working the Annapolis 
Sailboat Show years back.


And I noticed that it is being sold at the Farmers Market that is a half block 
away from my condo.


Hey, wait a minute…


Cheers,

Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit


On Jan 8, 2016, at 10:09 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
wrote:


Saw this:


http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/boa/5393170373.html



-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C nameplate envy

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

No sniffing!


-Original Message-
From: "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2016-‎01-‎16 4:10 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "Joel Aronson" 
Subject: Stus-List C&C nameplate envy

With all the discussion about new nameplates I decided to clean up my aluminum 
plates that are about 2 x 3 inches.  Bought some Testor model paint and redid 
the lettering. Sanded the excess and the crud with 400 grit paper. 


Hadn't bought Testor paint since I was a kid. 
Joel
35/3 
Annapolis 


-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Boom vanging...

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Same feelings on Garhauer.

-Original Message-
From: "wwadjo...@aol.com via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2016-‎01-‎28 1:51 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "wwadjo...@aol.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom vanging...

Garhauer. Call and they will walk through sizing, etc.
Bill Walker


Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet


-- Original message--
From: Chuck Saur via CnC-List 
Date: Thu, Jan 28, 2016 12:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
Cc: Chuck Saur;
Subject:Stus-List Boom vanging...


Here's another post to get some experience-based advising.  I am looking to 
purchase a rigid boom vang to replace the topping lift (damn thang) which is 
always in the way of everything.   I will also replace the blocks/line I have 
as manual vang. Tangs are built-in on the boom and mast base. I don't want 
hydraulics, but wonder who can recommend which vang/size and other 
considerations (vendor, etc) based on your purchase/use of them.


There is Forespar, Garhauer, Boomkicker, etc.  Some are less expensive but 
appear the same.  Thoughts?








Chuck Saur
Morning Sky
C&C 35-3
Hessel Michigan___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Mystery Coolant

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I generally leave RV or plumbing antifreeze in the bilge, but I'm  in frozen 
Ottawa.

-Original Message-
From: "Ryan Doyle via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2016-‎01-‎29 2:00 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "Ryan Doyle" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mystery Coolant

Joe and Joel - thank you guys.  Apologies, I was on "digest mode", so I didn't 
see your responses until now.  I know it's engine coolant because as Joe said - 
"nothing else on the boat looks like it".  Joel, I have a feeling you're right 
about the source.  I think there was coolant in the aft part of my bilge - 
either it was spilled or the previous owner intentionally put it down there, 
and when it rains hard it's being pushed into the sump.  If this is the case, 
I'm just surprised that it's retaining it's brilliant fluorescent green color 
after being watered diluted so much.  It's very green.  Looks the same as 
what's in the reservoir.



On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 1:42 PM, Ryan Doyle  wrote:

Replying to my own thread again here..  I've read a few times online that 
people sometimes add antifreeze to a wet bilge during the winter.  Now I'm 
wondering if there is some residual antifreeze left in the aft portion of my 
bilge from the previous owner (I bought the boat in Oct), and it's being mixed 
with some rainwater and ending up down there.



On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 12:46 PM, Ryan Doyle  wrote:

I forgot to give the details on my boat - She's a 1976 30 mki and she's 
winterized and up on stands.



On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 12:40 PM, Ryan Doyle  wrote:

Hey everyone, 


Thank you for the responses last week about my tiller - which I went out to 
observe/fix today and then got distracted by another issue - c'est la vie.

Sometimes after heavy precipitation I find engine coolant in my bilge.  This 
ONLY happens after heavy precip - like last week here in NYC. 


I inspected the cooling system plumbing connections and hoses on my A4 and I've 
looked over the engine itself, there are no leaks I can see.  Also, the level 
of coolant in the engine's reservoir has remained constant for months.  

If it was leaking from the motor, the level in the reservoir would be going 
down, right?  That said, the engine is winterized, so the water pump hasn't 
spun since October.

The fact that it only happens after it rains is really confounding me too.  A 
constant leak from the engine would steadily fill my bilge no matter what the 
weather was, right?  The water system on the boat is winterized with pink 
antifreeze, so it's not that.


Any thoughts?  Thanks in advance.___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Mystery Coolant

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

You need antifreeze for winter storage in climates which freeze. Plumbing 
antifreeze is fine as it's biodegradable.

-Original Message-
From: "Joseph Bognar via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2016-‎01-‎30 2:18 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "Joseph Bognar" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mystery Coolant

If your boat is fresh water cooled then it should not have anti freeze in it at 
all . 

Sent from Joe Bognar



On Jan 30, 2016, at 12:01 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
wrote:


Thanks very much.  Yes it's a fresh water-cooled A4.  Joseph, I am going to 
check the sump near the mast step too, but based on where it's pooling I think 
it's coming from the bilge just forward of the motor under the cabin sole - the 
hardest spot to reach.


John, if that turns out not to be where it is coming from, I'm definitely going 
to head to the boat at night and get out my flashlight.  Good advice!


Thanks again 

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 30, 2016, at 11:40, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Mike — there are actually at least a couple of women on the list, as well… FYI… 
  :^)


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


On Jan 30, 2016, at 6:19 AM, Headgorilla via CnC-List  
wrote:


Good Morning Men...
 


Mike
Skywalker 1978 34"
Southold, NY 


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Old C&C factories on Google Street View

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Or open a ski area!

-Original Message-
From: "Bill Coleman via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2016-‎02-‎01 7:35 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "Bill Coleman" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Old C&C factories on Google Street View

The saying goes, 
 
“ If you want to make a small fortune, take a large fortune and start a boat 
Shop.”
 
Bill Coleman
C&C 39 Erie, PA
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 01, 2016 7:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle
Subject: Re: Stus-List Old C&C factories on Google Street View
 
Chuck,
 
I certainly wasn't implying a relationship between the condition of a shuttered 
factory and our boats.  Hope it didn't come across that way.  
 
Just interesting to see the place where they came from.  And you're certainly 
right - the boat building business seems a tough business indeed..

On Feb 1, 2016, at 18:51, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List  
wrote:
Ryan,
The exterior of a boat building facility is rarely indicative of the quality of 
the work that goes on inside.  Many Florida boat building facilities don’t even 
have walls on the exteriors of the buildings (partially due to the heat, but I 
think they feel that every time a hurricane comes through, they’re going to 
lose the building so why bother with walls…).  It is also hard to keep a 
facility looking “pretty” if you have to store hull and deck molds outside and 
do wet layup of fiberglass indoors…
 
The boat building industry has suffered greatly during the upswings and 
downturns of our economic climate over the past 50 years, from the booms of the 
dawning of the fiberglass era, to the luxury tax disaster of the 1980’s and the 
Great Recession of the last decade.  The number of domestic North American boat 
manufacturers has been cut by 75% since 1980, both in the US and Canada.  If 
you want a good insight on the industry as a whole, not just sailboat OEMs but 
boat builders successful and not so successful, read Heart of Glass by Daniel 
Spurr.   Dan has done quite a bit of research, especially on C&C Yachts rise 
and fall, and he presents a good bit of information on how boatbuilding in 
North America developed into the iconic industry of today.  
 
It is very rough to get the right mix of design innovation, management and 
financial skills, brand and customer loyalty, and a well-trained skilled 
workforce all at the same time and keep the team together long enough to 
withstand the ups and downs of the world economic issues.  I’m always amused 
when a person tells me that sailboat builders will have a good year when oil 
and gas prices go up.  Little do they know that the same oil is  used to make  
the resins holding the boats together and the Dacron that goes into building 
the sails and ropes.  When the price of oil goes up, EVERYTHING costs more and 
only the very wealthy can afford luxury goods such as new sailing and motor 
yachts.  
 
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1975 25 Mk1
 
S/V Orion (for now)
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA
 
 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 1, 2016 2:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle 
Subject: Stus-List Old C&C factories on Google Street View
 
Hey everyone, 
Just figured I'd share these.  I was doing a bit of research into my boat's 
history and did a Google Street view search for the site of the old 
Niagara-On-The-Lake C&C factory where many of our boats were built.  This 
appears to be it.  A little sad looking these days.  The official address was 
526 Regent Street, Niagara-On-The-Lake, ON.  
https://www.google.com/maps/@43.2477103,-79.0798583,3a,75y,46.89h,80.32t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1sWXyUsyI08paWB6abrM7vTQ!2e0!6s%2F%2Fgeo1.ggpht.com%2Fcbk%3Fpanoid%3DWXyUsyI08paWB6abrM7vTQ%26output%3Dthumbnail%26cb_client%3Dmaps_sv.tactile.gps%26thumb%3D2%26w%3D203%26h%3D100%26yaw%3D69.186577%26pitch%3D0!7i13312!8i6656!6m1!1e1
 
And this appears to be the Rhode Island plant where some of the later C&C's 
were built.

https://www.google.com/maps/@41.5370326,-71.2796595,3a,37.5y,238.05h,82.17t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sQtO33RcgRe2XAgGkFTZWzA!2e0!7i13312!8i6656
 
 
Ryan
S/V Nobody's Bargain
1976 C&C 30 MK I
Hull #377




___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Made an offer on a C&C 35 mk2

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Echo Steve's comments. Firefly's A4 is 40 years old. Still reliable as hell. 
Marvel Mystery Oil gets some of the credit  Mid-range fuel is better now that 
there's no lead..

-Original Message-
From: "Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2016-‎02-‎03 3:32 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "Stevan Plavsa" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Made an offer on a C&C 35 mk2

An A4 does not a dealbreaker make. 


I looked at the issue of A4 vs Diesel this way:


30 year old diesel or 30 old gasser.
The boats with the 30 year old diesel had about on average, a 5k markup over 
their A4 brethren. 


A 30 year old motor, is a 30 year old motor, is a 30 year old motor. 


Gas or diesel, you're looking at replacement or rebuild in not too much time. 
All kinds of things can be wrong with either. Choose one that's been well 
maintained (gas OR diesel).


A4 parts are still very available and they are easy to work on. I know gas 
engines, sort of, I don't know diesel at all having never wrenched on one. At 
the end of the day it's a SAILboat. Do you want to be a mechanic? You might 
need to be, because  30 year old motor. Mine is actually 35 years old now.


My boat was a good deal, the 1980 A4 in there was in about as good condition as 
one could want. Being a freshwater boat all her life, RWC wasn't an issue for 
me and it still isn't. If she had a diesel she would have cost me another 5k. 
Again, to my mind, there's no value there.


I kind of love my A4. It's quiet! and it always works. On the odd time that it 
doesn't, it's an easy fix: points, last time. Half an hour of digging around 
the boat for the parts and install. 


Oh yeah, and I picked up a whole spare "working pull" A4 for $300 bones. It's 
taking up space in my garage. One day, when I'm retired, in like 50 years, 
maybe I'll have time to rebuild it. 


If you're really paranoid there's the issue of gasoline on the boat. i sniff 
test the bilge before firing her up. That's worth 5k to me. Oh, and I keep the 
motor happy with clean fuel, fresh fuel lines and filters, etc. 


Cheers,
Steve




On Wed, Feb 3, 2016 at 1:31 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:

What engine does the boat have?
An original A4, if RWC, can be considered fully depreciated by now and most of 
them are RWC. The optional diesel as a creation made by Westebeake from MG 
Midget engine blocks. From all I have read, it made a nice little engine but 
parts are almost impossible to get now.
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Syer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2016 1:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave Syer

Subject: Re: Stus-List Made an offer on a C&C 35 mk2
 
Rino,
 
 
Agreed with Steve, after reviewing MANY surveys over and crawling around many 
boats, over 3 decades, I find most are very superficial indeed.To be fair, 
most surveyors cannot realistically know the specific issues to look for in 
each model.   
That said, we are in C&C land and several of the local surveyors know the boats 
and a few actually worked for C&C over the years.   (one - a dutch name escapes 
me, but a good guy and he's down your way.)
 
FWIW When I inquired about some work with Bristol marine in Port Credit, Nick 
Bailey made the following recommendations of surveyors who they felt knew C&C 
boats.  No affiliation or relationship etc...
 
have an experienced surveyor familiar with these issues look at the boat. i.e. 
Bill Provis, 416-801-5527; Peter McGuire 416-809-2186; or Wallace Gouk 
416-526-3845
 
That said, read up, ask questions here and do your own survey as well.lift 
the cabin sole, look at all of the floor timbers (whatever they're called in a 
plastic boat)
 
One thing I did not do and should have, was insisted on the opportunity to put 
the boat through its paces in the water, under power.   
 
Good Luck!
 
Dave  - 1985 33ii
 
 
 
 
 
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2016 11:26:47 -0500
From: Stevan Plavsa 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Made an offer on a C&C 35 mk2
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Peter McGuire, Fastnet Yacht Services.
He did mine. I wasn't unhappy with the work but since then I've questioned
the value of surveys in general. He didn't tell me anything I didn't know.
He did a good job but stayed within his scope. I can send you my survey if
you want a sample of the work. I don't believe I'm breaking any agreement
by sharing it.

I'm far from a pro, just a blunderer who's read a lot of Don Casey and
Nigel Calder. I own the same moisture meter that those guys use. The notion
that you have to be a rocket surgeon to use a moisture meter is a little
beyond me. There's a lot an amateur can learn about a boat with one of
those before spending $600 on a survey. Sure, you can get false positives,
like backing plates registering as moisture .. but you won't get false
negatives. If there's moisture, it'll find it.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto

Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I buy mine from Apple Auto Glass

-Original Message-
From: "Mike Amirault via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2016-‎02-‎09 4:39 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "Mike Amirault" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

I bought my Butyl tape at in industrial supplier in Dartmouth, NS, Arrow 
Construction. It is grey, 1” wide and it seems to be just as good as any other 
brand that I have seen and WAY cheaper than the “marine” brands. I used it to 
rebed hatches and deck hardware on my C&C33ii, no leaks.  Having said that, 
it’s only been there for 4 yrs but, so far, it is just as sticky as when it was 
new.  For the guys in the Halifax/Dartmouth area, they also sell Dow 795 for 
about 8 bucks a tube.
 
Mike Amirault
C&C33ii Lovely Cruise
St Margarets Bay SMSC___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 35-3 stern boarding ladder

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

A good friend made me teak steps to go on the standard 27 ladder. Big 
improvement and they look great.

-Original Message-
From: "Jake Brodersen via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2016-‎02-‎17 8:16 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "Jake Brodersen" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 stern boarding ladder

Howard,

The stern ladder on the 35-3 isn't rocket science.  It's a very simple
design that any competent metal worker should be able to copy or replicate.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampton VA



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Howard
and Skippy via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 12:12
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Howard and Skippy 
Subject: Stus-List 35-3 sternn boarding ladder

Hello All,
Anyone have a lead on a stern boarding ladder for a 35-3?  Mine was bent by
a sprit from a 109 in a race:-( .
Howard Paul, Skipper of Knot Again

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Gori 2 Blade Re-fit

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

If you are close enough Bayview Propeller in Lakefied ON does rebuilds.

-Original Message-
From: "J Roger via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2016-‎03-‎02 9:10 AM
To: "CnC-List@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "J Roger" 
Subject: Stus-List Gori 2 Blade Re-fit

Hi..I have a 12 x 9 LH Gori with the gears for my C&C 27 MK III. The blades are 
loosey gossey and I know oversized pins can extend life. Anybody experienced a 
refit? Seems like a shame to make it a paper weight.


TY


J___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I'd  stay with the list, Stu

You never know what you're going t learn and it's easy to delete what doesn't  
interest you. I am grateful for the every time I access it. Many thanks.

-Original Message-
From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2015-‎03-‎13 6:16 PM
To: "Stu" ; "CnClist" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum

1)  I can set my email to "thread" view.  No advantage for me to go to forum.

2) How mobile friendly would forum be?  I read a lot of the list mails on my 
smartphone.


I'm old and don't like change.  Slight preference to maintain current system.


Dennis C.



On Fri, Mar 13, 2015 at 4:32 PM, Stu via CnC-List  wrote:

Recently, some of our subscribers have indicated that they would like to have a 
“Forum” similar to “cruisersforum” or “sailnet” instead of an email list (like 
this one).
 
PROS:
1. Eliminate the costs related to the email list
2. Follow a thread easier without having to read multiple emails.
3. Easier to find past, archived messages and threads.
4. Possible addition of public and private photo albums.
5. Easily moderated by more than one person.  Threads can be deleted and 
undesirable subscribers blocked.
6. No more 20-30 emails a day.  Visit the site at your convenience and view the 
latest topics since your last visit.
 
CONS:
1. Forum software runs from free to around $250 depending on additional 
enhancements.
2. Might (???) require additional disk space and bandwidth on hosting site. 
()
3. Installation – I’ve done it before and it does take some time.  And a bit 
more time involved to get it tweeked to perfection.
 
Bottom line – would you rather have a FORUM or continue using this list?  It 
does not matter to me.
 
Stu
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Email list, etc

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Gracious thanks, Stu.

-Original Message-
From: "Stu via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2015-‎03-‎17 9:06 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List Email list, etc

Just a brief update on the list and other items:

1. There will NO Facebook, Twitter or other social networking URL
associated with the Photo Album.  I don't subscribe to these networks due
to their insecurity, impersonal and ad-ridden software.

2. I do not want to be part of gofundme.com.  I don't understand how they
can do it without some cut in the money collected.  In recent months,
there have been several scams that raised thousands of dollars and nobody
knows where the money went.  I think the site is open to investigation by
the local and federal authorities and I don't need someone asking me for
an audit.

3. If you like the Photo Album and this list, it's easy to contribute. 
But I am not forcing anyone to do so.  I have funded both for many years
and have no regrets.  Costs keep going up and that it the only reason I
have asked for help. In fact this list has been operating almost
flawlessly since 2006.

4. The actual cost of the Album and List is difficult to caculate because
of the constant changes in pricing.  The Album is actually hosted on 3
different companies (no free sites) and the list on another.  Reason is
simple -- if 1 host goes down, I only lose a portion and not the whole
whack.  Domain registration alone costs about $80.00 a year.  This list
costs about $300 a year and the Album about $600.  So I guess a good
estimate would be $1000 a year.

Although I don't sail a C&C anymore, the friends I have made and
comraderie made, means more to me than anything.  I hope in the near
future to meet more people and expand my contact list

Again, thanks to everyone who has contributed. It is greatly appreciated.

Stu





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C ball caps

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I have a guy here in. Ottawa I have dealt with for years. He did a terrific job 
on our crew shirts and he has done hats for several regattas I have been 
involve with.
Should I check him out?

-Original Message-
From: "Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2015-‎03-‎18 3:11 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C ball caps

Is there anyplace that would embroider good quality ball caps "on demand"? I 
know you can set up with some companies online where they handle everything and 
give you a cut. You pay a flat fee once to get your design set up, and then 
they produce them as they are ordered. No minimum number. Most of the ones I've 
seen only do printing on various products such as tee shirts foam ball caps and 
coffee mugs. If there is one that does embroidering, it might be an option that 
would be more agreeable to Gladys!

Bill Bina


On 3/18/2015 2:44 PM, Leslie Paal via CnC-List wrote:

+ Yes 

I'm in for 2.

Leslie.

On Tue, 3/17/15, Robert Hrabinsky via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C ball caps
 To: "Bradley Lumgair" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: Tuesday, March 17, 2015, 7:54 PM
 
 I never
 write in all caps, but YES! 
 I would order 3  ball caps, if
 available. 
 Robert H. 
 
 ___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List First aid kit

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Check with a friendly doctor who sails if you know one. Lots of variable needs 
depending where you are sailing and for how long.

-Original Message-
From: "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2015-‎03-‎26 7:42 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List First aid kit

I would recommend completing the kit yourself. I find that most standard kits 
come with a lot of stuff you don`t need and don`t have stuff you want. Even the 
Band-Aids have to be selected carefully. Keep in mind that chances are that 
both you and the victim might be wet.
 
You want stuff that you may need and that you would know how to use.
 
Marek
 
From: Alan Bergen via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2015 5:32 PM
To: C&C Photoalbum email list 
Subject: Stus-List First aid kit
 
Check with the local Red Cross.  They sell first aid kits in different sizes.

 
Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

 
I'd like to buy an "offshore" first aid kit.  The large ones, even on sale at 
Defender, are $450.  There are lots of cheaper kits from Zee Medical, ULine, 
Orion and even Bass Pro Shops.

 
Unless the Admiral is onboard, there will probably be no one with medical 
training beyond basic first aid.  (She's a nurse.)  Any recommendations other 
than ask her?
-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List running wire for chart plotter etc

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I changed to a more robust pedestal guard and installed extra wiring for 
eventual needs. Made sense to me.

-Original Message-
From: "Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2015-‎03-‎31 1:08 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "lumg...@hotmail.com" 
Subject: Stus-List  running wire for chart plotter etc

Hi Brad, 
  
I ran all the wires through the pedestal when I installed the Zeus and there 
was plenty of space in the pedestal / holes at the bottom to run the wires.  
Like you I already had power and other wheelpilot related wiring in addition to 
the NMEA2000 backbone and power for the Zeus.. No Issues.  I used a combination 
of re-purposed wire coat hanger and a glowing fiberglass cabling rod to run the 
cables, a 10-15 minutes job.   

Good Luck, 

-Francois 
1990 34+ "Take Five" 
Lake Lanier, Georgia 



- Original Message -


I ran all the wires through the Pedestal when I installed the Zeus and there 
was plenty of space in the pedestal / holes at the bottom.  Like you I already 
had power and other wheelpilot related wiring 
From: "Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Monday, March 30, 2015 5:26:11 PM 
Subject: Stus-List running wire for chart plotter etc 

How much stuff is inside the Edson pedestal on a C&C 33 II? Shift cable, 
throttle cable and steering shaft? I've seen a few references to drilling into 
the guard and running the wiring inside it, but wondered if there was more 
empty space in the pedestal itself? There should already be a substantial hole 
in the deck at that point. There is going to be a good sized bundle of wire 
running up with the plotter, the autopilot head, and the power for the drive 
unit. Is there a better place to put this stuff that I'm not thinking about? 
(bought a RAM mount with a clamp to the ped. guard) 
I'm just overthinking the install of the new instruments on our new boat and 
don't want to hack something up I didn't need to. 
Thanx 
Brad 
1985 C&C 33 MkII "Pulse" 
Sarnia 

Sent, miraculously through cyberspace, 
from my iPad! 
Regards ___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Tiller on C&C 35 Mkiii?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Lucky man!

-Original Message-
From: "David Castor via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2015-‎04-‎16 6:02 PM
To: "robert" ; "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Tiller on C&C 35 Mkiii?

Rob,


Thanks for that link - I'll definitely take a look.  We own a little trailer 
sailor at present (Potter 19), so this will be the first keelboat purchase for 
me.  I've done a fair amount of sailing (passages from Portland to the San 
Juans) with friends on their boats, some sailing classes and a couple of 
cruises in the San Juans/Gulf Islands.   


We currently live in Oregon, but I'm in the process of retiring and we've 
purchased a house in Port Angeles, so if I do buy a boat, it will be based out 
of Port Angeles.I've been looking for something from 30' to 35' feet, so 
this is at the long end.  I originally had been reluctant to consider these C&C 
boats because of the cored hulls, but I guess I'm somewhat getting over that 
phobia, although I'll definitely be getting it surveyed.  


Cheers,


Dave


On Thu, Apr 16, 2015 at 1:28 PM, robert  wrote:

Dave, welcome to the C&C list.  You didn't say if this was your first boat (I 
am betting it is not)..if you are, then the attached article and especially 
the part where it says to become a boat detective could be useful buying any 
boat.
http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/buying.htm

However, if you are only looking for specifics on C&C 35MKIII's, there are 
several owners on this list with considerable experience with the 35 MKIII.

Keep the list informed on how you far out.  And where do you sail from?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.





On 2015-04-16 4:28 PM, David Castor via CnC-List wrote:

Hello - first post here.  I'm in the market for a boat and will be looking at 
two different 35 Mkiii tomorrow.  One apparently has a tiller instead of a 
wheel.  Does anyone know if this was an option on a new boat?  I'm assuming it 
was probably a later conversion.  


I've already been advised on checking for leaks at hull/deck joint and 
portlights, as well as mast step area and deck delamination/core rot.  


If there are any other things to be looking for let me know.  I'll definitely 
be getting a survey if it gets that far, but trying to screen out any major 
issues.  


Thanks,


Dave Castor


 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List rig tuning

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Doing the doctor route again. Maybe later.

-Original Message-
From: "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2015-‎04-‎28 10:47 AM
To: "C&C List" ; "Pete Shelquist" 

Subject: Re: Stus-List rig tuning

Most insurance policies have blanket statements stating something to the effect 
of, "Vessel maintained in accordance with established industry standards."  
This gets you anytime ABYC changes the standards.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 28, 2015 9:48 AM, "Pete Shelquist via CnC-List"  
wrote:

A comment was made to me the other day that if an insurance company sees split 
rings at the rigs turnbuckles (vs cotter pins) that coverage will be null and 
void.  I found nothing in my policy stating this detail.  
 
Anyone else ever hear of this?
 
Thanks,
Pete
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Sounds like leaky impeller gasket.

-Original Message-
From: "robert via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2015-‎05-‎26 10:12 AM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "robert" 
Subject: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery

Burt:

If you are referring to the 'water pump' on the front of the engine, 
that is not where the antifreeze is originating from.it appears to 
be dripping from the back of the engine on the port side or to the right 
looking into the engine compartment from the companionway.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-05-26 10:59 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List wrote:
> I would replace my water pump shaft seals. Can't hurt and might fix the
> problem.
>
> Burt
> 1974 C&C 33
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John
> Russo via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2015 2:34 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: John Russo
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery
>
> Check to insure your engine block drain valves are tight before winter
> storage. Second thought is weird but offered anyhow. Is antifreeze fresh?
> Could there be a blockage somewhere where the antifreeze is diluted and
> freezes which would expand and force the top stuff out somehow. I said it
> was a weird thought! I will discuss it with the mechanic at the yard who is
> pretty sharp and seen most things.
>
> John
> C&C 32
> Arpeggio
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2015 11:25 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: robert
> Subject: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery
>
> After the engine is winterized in the Fall, I place a plastic pan under
> it.not sure why but I do.  Every Spring, there is approximately a half a
> cup or 250 ml of antifreeze in the pan.
>
> I have looked everywhere for the source of this antifreeze but I can't find
> out where it is coming from.  The boat was launched 3 weeks ago, the engine
> has about 3 hours on it since then, the pan is still under the engine but
> there is no antifreeze in it.  And the antifreeze does not appear during the
> sailing season.
>
> I notice every Spring the level of the antifreeze in the 'overflow
> container' is down a bit and I refill to the 'FULL LEVEL' but that container
> is not leaking.  It's a mystery!
>
> Anybody experience this and/or have any ideas where this antifreeze could be
> originating from?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Edson Pedestal

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Someone posted on this topic a while ago. If anyone still has it I would 
appreciate a copy or a reference
 Thanks, posters.

-Original Message-
From: "Bill Bina via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2015-‎05-‎28 6:22 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "Bill Bina" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List AirBnB boat





On 5/28/2015 6:08 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List wrote:
> A home got trashed here in Calgary a few weeks ago.
> I think it was around $200K in damages. (AirBnB came up good for it though!)
>
> sam :-)
>

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Edson Pedestal

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

We needed a cable brake and have sourced one - and a competent technician to 
install

-Original Message-
From: "Chuck S via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2015-‎05-‎28 9:44 PM
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
Cc: "Chuck S" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Pedestal

Hi John,
Not sure of your problem?  I recently had to replace my idler plate on my 1990 
34/36.  I have pics and much advice on that process.  


Edson has an extensive website with technical support:




TECHNICAL SUPPORT
If you require technical support or information on an Edson products, please 
visit our tech support web pageor contact Edson:
By Email: i...@edsonintl.com
By Phone: (508) 995-9711




Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md






From: "John Irvin via CnC-List" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "John Irvin" 
Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2015 8:21:09 PM
Subject: Stus-List Edson Pedestal



Someone posted on this topic a while ago. If anyone still has it I would 
appreciate a copy or a reference
Thanks, posters.


From: Bill Bina via CnC-List
Sent: ‎2015-‎05-‎28 6:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Bina
Subject: Re: Stus-List AirBnB boat



<http://blog.sfgate.com/ontheblock/2015/05/15/airbnb-renters-refuse-to-leave-after-south-bay-landlord-allows-them-to-start-paying-cash/>







On 5/28/2015 6:08 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List wrote:
> A home got trashed here in Calgary a few weeks ago.
> I think it was around $200K in damages. (AirBnB came up good for it though!)
>
> sam :-)
>



___



Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




___



Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Sure glad I have an Atomic 4!

-Original Message-
From: "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2015-‎08-‎11 12:27 PM
To: "C&C List" 
Cc: "Josh Muckley" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring

I checked the specs of the universal glo-plugs and they average 2 ohms.   This 
equates to ~6amps times 4 cylinders equals ~24amps.  That's a pretty good 
amount of current draw.  The way Maine Sailor makes it sound the panel is the 
choke point and all the current for the glo-plugs AND starter solenoid has to 
come from the panel and through various plug connectors and relatively small 
gauge wire.  Each adding it's own amount of additional resistance.  Not to 
mention poor connections, burnt contacts, and corrosion.  I'm not surprised at 
all to see the voltage dragged down enough to prevent the starter solenoid from 
being able to close.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD 
On Aug 11, 2015 11:41 AM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List"  
wrote:

In about 20 years of working on boats, mine and others’, the photo is the first 
Universal panel I have seen with an ammeter instead of a voltmeter on the panel.
 
Of course the glow plugs will draw down the starting voltage. When you power 
the glow plugs you are running ten amps or so across a couple thousand ohms of 
resistance to create heat. If your battery is OK, and of normal capacity, the 
voltage loss to the system will be negligible – maybe 0.1v or less. But that 
happens any time you put a load on the system. Doesn’t the voltage shown on 
your battery monitor drop from around 12.6 to 12.4 or 12.5 when you turn on the 
lights in the cabin? Same thing.
 
The only way that the glow plugs will cause a significant drop in the starting 
voltage is if you have a direct short in the wiring or a defective glow plug 
that is shorted to the engine block. Then you get a direct short from battery 
to ground through the engine panel wiring harness, and you let all the smoke 
out of the engine wiring harness. (Sorry, old electrical engineering joke 
coming back to haunt me.) Which is why there is a typically a 20 amp fuse in 
the power wire that supplies the engine panel.
 
Putting a solenoid into the system so the button engages the solenoid and the 
solenoid powers the glow plugs really doesn’t accomplish anything. Unless you 
have the unlikely confluence of a short in the solenoid and a short in a glow 
plug, in which case you get a short direct from battery to ground and you let 
the smoke out of the whole boat.
 
 
Rick Brass
Washington, NC
 
 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 10:03 AM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring
 
I don't have a universal or any experience with one but it sounds to me like 
the glow plugs are drawing down the starting voltage.  I would suggest 
installing a solenoid for the glow plugs in addition to a solenoid for the 
starter.  The 2 articles below talk about poorly wired universal panels and 
make similar suggestions.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_wiring_harness_upgrade
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/solder_trouble_shooting
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD 
On Aug 11, 2015 8:50 AM, "Neil Gallagher via CnC-List"  
wrote:
The power to the starter button is supposed to come off the switched terminal 
of the glow plug button.  You are supposed to to have to push the glow plug 
switch and the starter switch every time you start, as the glow plug switch 
also powers both the electric fuel pump until the oil pressure builds up, and 
silences the low oil pressure alarm.  Once the oil pressure rises, its switch 
powers the fuel pump.

I put an M30B in our club launch and it has the same setup.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 8/10/2015 11:15 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
Since I got my boat, I have been bothered by the fact that the engine will not 
start in the way it is described in the manual unless plugged into shore power. 
 The manual says to hold the glow plug button for about 30 seconds and then 
while continuing to hold that button in, push the start button.  When I do 
that, the starter does not turn over. If I release the glow plug button and 
push the start button the engine starts fine.  My father (retired electrical 
engineer) and I (genetic engineer- useless in this case but sounds good) spent 
some time trying to diagnose the problem this weekend and found two interesting 
things: 
 
1.  The buttons both tested fine in terms of their switch function.  We then 
tested power at the engine.  There is a heavy red cable coming from the battery 
to the starter measured 12V.  The red-yellow wire from the start button is 
attached to what I am presuming is the solenoid (the wiring diagram in the 
manual does not show a solenoid).  We only measured 8 volts at the solenoid 
when the button is pushed, but 12 volts everywhe

Re: Stus-List Adjustable Genoa Cars

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I have had Garhauer for years. Great product.

-Original Message-
From: "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2015-‎08-‎22 1:16 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "Tom Buscaglia" 
Subject: Stus-List Adjustable Genoa Cars

Any thoughts on adjustable cars.  Like, are they all that?

Also, which ones...Garhauer vs. Schaefer, for example.

thx

Tom B
SV Alera

Typoed from my iPhone


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Adjustable Genoa Cars

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Me three!

-Original Message-
From: "William Walker via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2015-‎08-‎23 11:53 AM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "wwadjo...@aol.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable Genoa Cars

I have garhauer.  I like their products.  
Bill Walker


Sent from AOL Mobile Mail





On Saturday, August 22, 2015 Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
wrote:

Any thoughts on adjustable cars. Like, are they all that? Also, which 
ones...Garhauer vs. Schaefer, for example. thx Tom B SV Alera Typoed from my 
iPhone ___ Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 
-- go to the bottom of page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List boat names

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I like Born to Run

-Original Message-
From: "Tom Lynch via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2015-‎09-‎17 2:50 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "Tom Lynch" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List boat names

Danny, 


I've been struggling with a rename for over a year:  On the song name theme, 
some names I'm considering


Exodus

Natural Mystic

Born to Run


Tom Lynch
Bayfield WI
33MKII Escape




On Thu, Sep 17, 2015 at 12:27 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:

ha ha ...awesome!!
 


-- Original Message --
From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody 
Subject: Re: Stus-List boat names
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2015 10:11:19 -0700



Is he dyslectic?

As in, "Dyslectics unite, there is a dog!"

Cheers, Russ


At 09:59 AM 17/09/2015, you wrote:
>Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
> boundary="=_Part_1103275_1019712278.1442509185447"
>Content-Length: 1011
>
>A fellow here couldn't think of a name, so he called it TDB (to be 
>determined).
>Ron
>Wild Cheri
>C&C 30-1
>STL
>
>___
>
>Email address:
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to 
>the bottom of page at:
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 2GM20F Engine will not start - Possible Fuse Issue.

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Corrosion?

-Original Message-
From: "Brad Crawford via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎08-‎15 12:55 AM
To: "'Martin DeYoung'" ; "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
; "'Raymond Macklin'" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2GM20F Engine will not start - Possible Fuse Issue.

I had a similar issue this last weekend. We  motored from Elliott Bay to Port 
Ludlow, set the hook, shut the engine off, about a half hour later I decided to 
relocate the anchor.  I depressed the starter switch and nothing happened, 
tried a couple of times, no start.  So we stayed put figuring I’d tackle the 
problem in the morning.  The next morning she started right up.  On the way 
back a few days later, we motored from Kingston back to Elliott Bay Marina, we 
stopped at the fuel dock to empty the waste tank, when finish I again depressed 
the start button to move on to our slip.  Same thing, no start, I checked 
around looking for something obvious that may have caused the problem, found 
nothing, so we waited about 45 – 60 minutes.  After a cool down time I tried 
again depressing the start switch and she started right up. I think my issue 
may be heat related but not sure?  Could it be the switch, fuse or fuse holder, 
solenoid, or starter?  Any ideas? Has anyone else experienced this?
 
Thanks,
 
Brad
81 C&C 36
Elliott Bay 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin 
DeYoung via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2014 10:35 AM
To: Raymond Macklin; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2GM20F Engine will not start - Possible Fuse Issue.
 
I had a similar issue with a 1980 C&C 36’s 3 cyl. Yanmar after a night passage. 
 The electrical load from the running lights and other nav equipment caused a 
fuse located at the back of the engine to blow.  The fuse was in an in-line 
holder as part of the wire harness.  This was approx. 20 years ago so I don’t 
recall which circuit it was part of but it may have been the 12V supply for 
both the lights and the electric fuel lift pump.
 
Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle


 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Raymond 
Macklin via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2014 5:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 2GM20F Engine will not start - Possible Fuse Issue.
 
Hello:
I have a 1985 C&C 33-2 with a Yanmar, Diesel 2GM20F engine.  I was sailing last 
night and started the motor like normal to get out of harbor.  However, when I 
went to  come back in to the harbor.  I proceed to follow my normal process.  I 
put the transmission in Neutral and reached down to turn the key and heard the 
whistle sound and press the start button.  NOTHING HAPPENED.  Kept trying on 
different batteries and still nothing.  I also looked at the gauges with the 
motor would not start and my gas gauge read empty and i know i have a full tank.
We got back into the harbor and someone showed my how to jump the motor.  I 
started right up.  He indicated it might be a fuse.
Is anyone familiar with the location of the fuse between the key and the motor 
and the type of fuse i may be needing to repair this.  
Thanks,
Ray
LakeHouse
Libertyville, IL
 
Diesel - Yanmar 2GM20F, fresh water cooled___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List How to paint small surfaces on deck?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I have seen ads for gelcoat in a spray can.

-Original Message-
From: "Sébastien Lemieux via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎08-‎17 12:32 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List How to paint small surfaces on deck?

Hello everyone,

  I made a few repairs on my deck (changed rope clutches and filled some holes 
left by a previous dodger) and I'm now left with several small patches of 
sanded epoxy (I used thickened West epoxy and faired with 240 grit).  What 
would be your recommendation for the cosmetic finish?

  I can't seem to find any information on painting small surfaces, is it just a 
matter of buying a small quantity of paint and attempting as best as possible 
to feather in with the surrounding?  Is there a type of paint that works better 
than other for this type of work?  I am not too concerned about color matching 
as the current paint on my deck is quite faded and already show a few shades 
depending on sun exposure.

Thanks in advance for you help,

--
Sébastien Lemieux
Merlot X, C&C 30-2 1988
Lake Champlain


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List [Bulk] Re: Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Our club has switched to premium because the newer outboard require it.

-Original Message-
From: "David Drake via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎08-‎18 12:18 PM
To: "Russ & Melody" ; "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

Subject: Re: Stus-List [Bulk] Re:  Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

The importance. Of using premium fuel is that have little or no ethanol I'm it 
.regular fuel has up to 10% ethanol some premiums have less or even better 
no ethanol

DDrake 
73 JH 
C&C 26

On Aug 13, 2014, at 2:16 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List  
wrote:


Hi Danny,

You don't need to use premium gas in a relatively low compression engine unless 
your fuel hose is not gas meth compatible (and maybe some ancient injection 
equipment as found on old VWs, not the case here!). The higher octane rating 
does not make it "better" gas but it does slow the burn rate.

So, sooty plugs eh. To state the obvious: fuel too rich or more precisely 
fuel/air ratio too high since we've ruled out plug heat range, low compression 
and sticky oil wiper rings by virtue of Moyer rebuild.
Air side:
Is you air filter clean? engine space too tight? vent blower run continuous?
Fuel side:
main jet too big is already covered off by Moyer, float set too high? or what I 
believe is the culprit... float needle valve not seating correctly or a bad 
needle & seat (all it takes is a speck o' dirt there). 
What is your fuel pump pressure set at? It could be too high.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35-1
east side o' Vancounver Island
clouds and showers on first of two weeks off :(

At 08:43 AM 13/08/2014, you wrote:

I am using champion RC12YC and using regular unleaded gas.
 
I guess if I'm to use premium, I'm going to need to lug it to the boat in 5 
gallon jugs...


-- Original Message --
From: JOHN D IRVIN 
To: Danny Haughey ,  "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 08:38:52 -0700

Are you using a hot enough plug and premium fuel?


On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 11:33:11 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:


- Forwarded Message -

Alright, the saga continues.

We went for a sea trial Sunday after the changes, i.e. Vent line cleared, 
filters changed, clamps tightened.  The engine ran great all the way to 
Cuttyhunk. I probably ran it about 3 hours. Two of those hours I ran it a 
little harder than I normally do after having read Don M's reasons for having 
black sooty spark plugs. I thought my problems were solved.

On our way home from cuttyhunk, We motored out the harbor and decided that, 
because the wind was a little light, we would motor home to run the engine some 
more. 50 minutes into our ride home, the same thing, only a bit slower. the 
whole, slow, stall happened over maybe a minute or two. Some sputter, then run 
normal, a little more sputter, then normal and then a slow stall.

We then sailed home and into the mooring field. This is actually a benefit of 
the engine troubles, I've been a bit intimidated about sailing onto the mouth 
of the river due to the current and very tight channel flanked by shoals and 
some pretty ominous looking rocks. I've now had to sail into the harbor twice 
over this last weekend. At one point we were probably doing 4 or 4.5knts 
through the water but only 1 to 1.5knts over the ground fighting that current. 
On one side of the boat it a big, rocky cliff and the other shoal. it was a 
little adrenalin pumping! Anyway, the approach to our mooring was dead, head to 
wind, along with the current in the same direction, I lost forward motion under 
sail and started the engine. She started right up and we motored onto the 
mooring without incident.

So, safely moored, I pulled the vent tube, it was clear. I then went below and 
pulled a spark plug and it was all black and sooty again after maybe 4 hours 
running time.

I used the Moyer rebuild kit on the carb that is on there now. I'm not sure 
but, I think I changed the main jet to the moyer recomended one at that time. I 
think it came with the rebuild kit.

My earlier idling issues seemed to have been solved by swapping out the carb 
that came with the exchange engine for the one I rebuilt off the original 
engine and had just sitting around as a spare. I think what I would like to do 
now is, clean up the carb that came with the exchange engine. and swap them 
back out. I'll then replace the plugs and run it some more. Unless you guys 
think I should maybe try another path forward.

Danny


 
P.S.  Cuttyhunk was Amazing!



Could be the carburetor. I've had this issue too many times. I chose to take 
off the carb, break it down completely and clean it out. Moyer Marine's A4 
guide is very useful. 
 
Brian
s/v Rekofa The Blue Whale
1979 C&C 34
Baltimore, MD

Dr. Brian C. Morrison

On Aug 10, 2014, at 9:48 AM, "Burt Stratton via CnC-List" 
 wrote:


Good question. I suppose it is possible but seems unlikely. The fuel pump ought 
to be able to overcome that. Can you drain 

Re: Stus-List [Bulk] Re: Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

MARVEL MYSTERY OIL

-Original Message-
From: "Wally Bryant via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎08-‎18 5:43 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [Bulk] Re:  Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

you wrote:
> It is a Shell station that he pointed me to
I've always enjoyed searching for Shells.  (That was a really bad 
joke.)  I also recall Mobil having good gas, although my favorite was 
back in New Jersey when the BP stations had 96 octane premium. There's a 
definite difference in gas quality, and it's not about price unless 
you're going to burn through the tank fast.

In California, we always avoided Arco, which was the cheapest gas.

FWIW, here in Mexico, where the PeMex gas is regulated and controlled by 
the government, you can be assured of a consistent product at a 
reasonable price.  I'm a capitalist at heart, but I do like to see that 
petroleum revenues are pumped back into the national economy, and are 
used to build roads and schools.   You can't be assured that every 
station actually pumps a liter for every liter paid, but that's a 
different point.

Oh, back to my point.  I always add a little Octane enhancer, a little 
Fuel Injector/Carburetor cleaner, and a little Sta-Bil gas stabilizer to 
every jerry can.  I haven't had to clean or replace a Carb on my 
outboard or Honda 2000 yet.  I don't know if that's a good thing, 
because that means I don't know how to do it.  But a few years ago 
someone on a 'kid boat' introduced me to his six year old son, who's 
sole job on the boat was to clean carburetors.  So it must not be that 
difficult.

Wal


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Sailing Totem - "(C&C's) Keels Falling Off!"

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Could there have been incidents with new ones.?  110,99,etc.

-Original Message-
From: "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎08-‎20 1:23 PM
To: "rickbr...@earthlink.net" ; 
"cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sailing Totem - "(C&C's) Keels Falling Off!"

Fk*n Wally...  That is hysterical!

-- Original Message --
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
To: Jack Fitzgerald , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Sailing Totem - "(C&C's) Keels Falling Off!"
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2014 12:22:16 -0400


See the crap storm of comments that have been made in the last hour or so. 
Bottom line is she is full of it.
 
Rick

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 20, 2014, at 11:39, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List  
wrote:


I have heard via this site of many issues concerning our old boats, but so far 
not one report of a keel falling off either via gravity or grounding.
Did I miss something or is the woman writing this blog just full of crap?


Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald
C&C 39 TM (1974)
 # 69)
HONEY
US12788
Savannah

 



On Wed, Aug 20, 2014 at 11:27 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Does anyone know if there is any base to the assertion the Ms. Gifford makes in 
her Sailing Totem  blog that “(C&C’s) keels are falling off!”
 
http://www.sailfeed.com/2014/08/theres-this-boat-mary-powell/


Assuming not, could someone remind her that baseless assertions, distributed by 
her through various channels (Sailfeed, email, f*book, etc.) is irresponsible 
and is the malady that leads to the unfortunate afflictions behind Rebel Heart 
slander and other unfortunate rumoring.


I would email, but I need to get back to work.  


Kevin
Portland
30-2




Kevin Driscoll
Portland,  Oregon
503  //  875  //  3493

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Re-chrome Barient 27 ST?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Get them knurled.

-Original Message-
From: "Don Harben via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎09-‎11 5:58 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List Re-chrome Barient 27 ST?

My two Barient 27 ST winches work very well, however the chrome on the drum 
shows that! Has anyone been successful having winch drums re-chromed?
 
  Don 
 
  ___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List sailing under jib alone

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I often go jib only when shorthanded. You lose a little point on the 27-3 but 
that's all.

-Original Message-
From: "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎09-‎19 12:04 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List sailing under jib alone

All,


Earlier this week I went out for a lazy sail after work.  Unfurled the jib in 
10 knots of wind and decided I was too lazy to remove the main cover and hoist 
the main.


I've read that sailing under only jib is bad because it places an uneven load 
on the rigging.  Seems to me that the load is minimal in light air and the 
total load is a lot less under one sail.


Thoughts?


Joel
35/3
Annapolis


-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I have a 27 Mk lll. Replaced windows with 1/4 in Plexiglas held in place by 
double.-sided butyl tape. Foolproof.

-Original Message-
From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎09-‎23 1:28 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C30MK1 windows and hatch replacements


I've done a bunch of reading on this topic as my windows are cracked and need 
replacement.
I don't have any experience actually doing it but I've read multiple 
different techniques -- so my comments should be taken with a grain (or bag) of 
salt!  Nest year I may be able to speak from experience.

I remember one discussion on the problem with adhesives was that the acrylic 
expands and contracts at different rates than the boat (or does not match boat 
flexing) and that most people put too thin a layer of adhesive - which could 
not absorb the movement.
The recommended solution was to use double sided tape to keep the acrylic a 
couple millimeters off the gelcoat - then squeeze the adhesive caulk in around 
the edges for the water proofing.  With more thickness there is more ability to 
absorb the different motions.  

Mark




There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George SantayanaOn 23/09/2014 12:42 PM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List wrote:

A few years ago I lightly ran a cutting knife around the outside edge of the 
30-year glued windows, went inside and hit each one once, moderately, with my 
fist. Every one popped right out. No gelcoat damage, but scarily easy 


Did the cast acrylic/plexus routine, was happy with nice new ports except for 
the not so pretty glue line showing through #2404 bronze 3/8", but then this 
year the large window started leaking again. Broken-hearted would cover it.


One of several reasons we're currently closing on a boat with Lewmar ports.


Nate
"Sarah Jean"
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior




On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 7:54 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Curtis, be very careful when taking the old ones out. They are glued in with 
some powerful stuff and you stand a good chance of chipping the gelcoat around 
the windows (don't ask me how I know). You may want to try a dremel or one of 
those vibrating side cutters (Fein tool?).
 
Then you have to clean up the area where the adhesive was - it was probably 
laid on pretty thick and is another dremel job - again - care.
 
Some folks use a special adhesive called Plexus, which is a two part glue and 
needs a special gun for application. The windows are bonded into the side of 
the cabin and are part of the structure. You have to hold them in place (they 
are slightly bent to match the curve of your cabin). Or you can use Sikaflex 
295, which requires a cleaner, a primer (mandatory!!!) and the adhesive. Don't 
get creative and try anything else, there are probably 100 war stories about 
folks who have experimented and then got the opportunity to do it right the 
next year.
 
Search through the archives on the site - most of the late '70's and later 
original C&C's had glued in windows and there are a lot of threads on this 
repair. It is doable but not trivial. Jake had a pretty good description if I 
remember correctly.
 
Gary Nylander
(Been there with moderate success)
 
- Original Message - 
From: Curtis via CnC-List 
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 8:21 AM
Subject: Stus-List C&C30MK1 windows and hatch replacements


Good morning,
I'm thinking of a winter project to replace the cabin side windows with 
something stronger and nice. Has anybody undergone this project that could 
share their process and maybe some photos ? Do I just cut them out with a razor 
knife and take them to a lexan shop and have them duplicate them in a lighter 
color?  Is there a framed in type? I have been stopping leaks in them windows 
sense I got the boat? 


I also want to rebuild the forward hatch and need something strong and that 
lets in more light. I need to know if the gasket around the inside is 
replaceable? Mine is cracking up and needs to be replaced. all-tho  the leaking 
looks to be the caulking of the class itself to the frame.


If you can share some in-depth details on how the two mentioned projects are to 
be completed I would be very thankful. 
I am very good at DIY projects and could do this project without imput. It is 
so much nicer hearing from people that have done it.


Thanks  



 
Best regards,
Curtis

C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady

Port Royal,

South Carolina

cpt.b...@gmail.com
 
 __/) 

. 






___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferenc

Re: Stus-List Hi, Just bought a 1985 C&C 41

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Use Marlow rope here
 slippery.

-Original Message-
From: "Rex & Jennifer Delay via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎11-‎13 7:39 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List Hi, Just bought a 1985 C&C 41

Recently bought a 41 with full knowledge that there were some issues, mainly 
with the rig.  Have replaced all the wire/rope halyards with rope, in the 
process of replacing the running backs and checkstays with amsteel.  Have 
replaced the mainsheet system with a 6/1 cleated at the traveller rather than 
the secondaries.  Took the sails off today for winter and got a good look at 
things.  Putting Delrin washers on the vang and gooseneck (Idea I got here).  
Now noticed outhaul and second reef lines cross on the way up to the boom and 
again inside the boom.  Cannot figure out how to re do them without taking the 
boom apart?  Any ideas on how to re-string lines inside the boom without 
tangling them or dismantling the boom ends?
 
Rex & Jennifer Delay
www. Ghostlake.com
www.ghostlakesailing.com
 ___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Using 12v trickle charger to test components?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I also use mine to power the blender on Margarita Weekend!

-Original Message-
From: "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎11-‎24 11:53 AM
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Using 12v trickle charger to test components?

For testing i usually use a "power in a bucket" i.e. a portable 12 v 
battery/booster with a 12 V socket. Mine is from Canadian Tire, but that does 
not matter. As a bonus you can use it to start the engine, in an emergency. I 
have built an accessory plug with alligator clips on the pigtails that can be 
attached to anything. Works well on and off the boat.

Marek


Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dribble

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I wear contacts for distance and have dollar store backups everywhere.

-Original Message-
From: "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎12-‎20 12:06 AM
To: "'D Harben'" ; "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Dribble

The only sure way is to have a full set in every potential place where you may 
need them. This does not mean that the pair you actually need is in the exact 
time and place where you expect it to be, but at least you have a fighting 
chance.
 
Marek
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of D Harben via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 19, 2014 10:43 PM
To: Jim Watts; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dribble
 
 ... Only 1 pair?
Ha!
Progressive trifocals, everyday
Progressive trifocals, sailing
Reading
Computer, longer focal length then reading
Distance for TV and movie theatre
 
Where they are at time and place is never where I need them!

On Dec 19, 2014, at 10:30 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
wrote:
I hesitate to ask why your glasses were in the trash...at least you don't have 
to futz with a joker valve in the process. 


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
 
On 19 December 2014 at 18:05, Wally Bryant via CnC-List  
wrote:
Yup, before you throw the trash out, make sure you know where your glasses are.

This is just a little warmup for New Years Eve.

Best wishes for the holidays,
Wal

-- 
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dorade

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I have used white plastic plumbing elbows successfully.

-Original Message-
From: "Peter Derviller via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎12-‎27 2:06 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List Dorade

Hello all: this is my first post on cnc-list. I carelessly knocked a vent 
overboard. Does anyone know of a source? I expect it was the original item that 
fits over a 3.25” spigot.
Thanks.
Peter
‘79 C&C30
“Oenone”
Vancouver BC.
 ___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Port light Gaskets Material

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Double-sided butyl tape is the way to go


-Original Message-
From: "Peter via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2015-‎01-‎18 8:48 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List Port light Gaskets Material

My boat has spent the last few off-seasons on the hard in Mexico. Last time I 
was there one of the kids knocked one of the windows and it feel off. I 
realized that all of the ports were in similar shape. The gaskets had basically 
turned to dust in the Mexican heat.

I am up in Canada now but heading back down to the boat in a couple of weeks. I 
boarded up one of the windows and brought the plastic window with me to get it 
replaced. I measured the others.

Before I left the boat I read about replacing the gaskets. In the post someone 
had linked to a supplier that produces the material for the gaskets for the 
port lights, but I can't seem to find it now.  If anyone could point me in the 
right direction it would be greatly appreciated.


Kind Regards,
Peter White
S/V Outrider
C&C 39




___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album.

Please donate to the C&C Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers.

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album.

Please donate to the C&C Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers.

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Magazines

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I am a huge fan of Sailing Magazine___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album.

Please donate to the C&C Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers.

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I have one on my 27-3

-Original Message-
From: "David Paine via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2015-‎01-‎25 6:32 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List Cunningham

Hi All,


I'm buying a new mainsail and I am going to ask a ridiculous-sounding question. 
  Do you have a Cunningham grommet in your mainsail?   I do not in my current 
sail but that is because Hood made the sail with a jack line (or lace line) 
which serves the purpose.  My new sail definitely won't have a jack-line.  Some 
adjust luff tension with the halyard, others use a separate Cunningham grommet 
with a many part tackle (or lead the Cunningham line to a winch) to set the 
luff tension.  My sailmaker has an opinion but my question is, which do you 
use?  The Cunningham is useless when reefed, of course.


Cheers,


David___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Look at the Mirage 24. It's essentially the same boat.

-Original Message-
From: "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2015-‎02-‎04 7:21 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C24

Actually, it seems that there were multiple versions of that arrangement.
The original C&C 24s had the main sheeting arranged at the cabin top in a
triangle (http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/brochures/24foot/24b1pg01.htm).
However, a brochure for the 24(c) (at the Photoalbum), shows two different
arrangements (the triangle and the cockpit eye).

Many people who raced the C&C 24 installed the in-cockpit traveller to
improve the sheeting arrangement (with very little regard to crew's shins
and knees).

If you are looking for a good arrangement, a cabin top winch would be great
for hoisting sails (you would need a set of turning blocks around the mast
and a couple of cleats for each of the halyards).

My view is that the genoa tracks are secondary; a couple of fiddle blocks on
the toe rail works fine (you can move them up and down, as needed). 

I never found a need for self tailing winches. C&C 24 is the "human size";
you can adjust the sails by hand in 90% of the conditions. For the main -
4:1 sheeting was more than enough.

Marek

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul
Baker via CnC-List
Sent: February-04-15 18:44
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C24

Original is often not the best. I don't think the 24 ever came with a
standard traveller, the main sheet came to a fixed eye in the cockpit floor.
On my old 24 which was a late model there were many modifications to enable
better and more effective sail controls. 
All lines were led to cockpit and she also had :
Genoa tracks
Traveller full width across the cockpit (shin smasher) Cunningham

That was the orange one posted up last week. 

Cheers
Paul 

Orange Crush
27MkII
Sidney, BC

 Original Message -
From: chris hulett via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Wed, 04 Feb 2015 12:20:25 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Stus-List C&C24

I have a C&C24 that I recently purchased and it needs a lot of work.I have
striped everything off of the deck and in the process of fixing all the
fiberglass , when I've finished I will start installing all the deck
hardware and lines, it looks like over the years the boat owners have added
extra hardware . I'm wanting to get this boat back to original hardwsre and
lines , so if anyone has pictures of how a C&C 24 should rig I wold live to
see them.


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Window Installation - 1985 41

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Still a fan of double-sided butyl tape.
.

-Original Message-
From: "John and Maryann Read via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2015-‎02-‎08 12:02 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Window Installation - 1985 41

Rex
 
This is a topic of MUCH discussion over the years.  Suggest you check the 
photoalbum archives and you will get a lot of good information.  
 
We went the Sikaflex 295 route in 2006, followed the instructions to a “T” and 
no problems so far.  Removing the old windows was a bear and involved a fair 
amount of gel coat damage which involved a lot of effort to repair.  My 
thinking was I never wanted to go through that again so stayed away from the 
Plexus system.  My research also indicated the adhesive industry had progressed 
a lot from when the boat was builtUsed ¼ inch rubber spacers to ensure 
sufficient depth of sealer.  Drilled holes and used screws at each corner to 
hold in place while it cured (at least a week and is sensitive the heat and 
humidity).  Removed the screws and filled with sealer.  Be sure to well tape 
any adjoining surface as the sealer will squeeze out during installation and 
you do not want it to contact any adjoining surface as you will never get the 
black stain out.
 
Checked my own archives and offer the following for your info.  Hope this helps 
and best of luck
 
John Maryann & others,
 
Different strokes for different folks. I went the Sika 295 UV route. It was 
easy to work with, requires no special applicator and has a longer open time is 
easy to clean up afterwards and costs less. Make sure that you use it as 
directed. It must be used in conjunction with their cleaner and primer. The 
primer is formulated to form a tenacious bond with the acrylic and fiberglass 
(I specifically verified with their tech rep that it would also bond with 
epoxy, since that is what I used to repair and fair the window recess). The
295 UV polyurethane forms a tenacious bond to the primed surfaces. You will not 
get a good bond to the acrylic and fiberglass if you don't use the primer.
 
The thing that convinced me to use this method was that after doing research on 
this list, it appears that after using the Plexus solution ther were people who 
didn't get it quite right and still had small leaks. They were so daunted and 
at the thought of breaking the plexus bond perhaps the acrylic and cost and 
hassle that none of them redid the repair.
If you have to redo a Sika UV bonded window, it will be much easier.
 
I don't really buy the structural argument either. My window just pushed out.
It had surely not been structurally bonded for many years, but the cabintop has 
not collapsed, nor had I ever noticed it flex when walking on it and I am not a 
small guy.
 
There is a general opinion on this list that you should almost never bond 
anything with 3m 5200 because almost every job will need to be redone at some 
point and if you used 5200 you are making it harder (if not impossible) to redo 
in the future. I apply this same philosophy to bonding the portlights.
Don't do something that makes this almost impossible to redo.
 
I have added a few pictures of the primer painted on to the window and recess 
to the [
http://www.user.firstclass.com/~eric/Arioso/Log%20Months/April%202005 ]April
2005 log page on my site.
 
Here is an excerpy from the March 2005 log page which contains the details of 
some tips that the Sika Tech Rep. gave me.
 
"I talked with Rick the Tech. Rep. from Sikaflex on the phone. He had the 
following advice about using the Sikaflex 295-UV system. The product numbers in 
Canada are different for some of the components. The Primer is 209N, the 
Cleaner is 205, The adhesive sealant is still 295-UV. The working time of the 
295-UV is about 20 minutes.Try and make the bead about as deep as the mortise. 
Place the bead where it will meet the flat of the acrylic. Match sticks are 
fine as spacers. There are no problems in using this product with epoxy. When 
caulking the outside seam, push the caulking gun along, don't pull it. Smooth 
the seam with a gloved finger dipped in a bucket of water with about four drops 
of dish soap in it."
 
--
Eric Haberfellner
1979 C&C 34 Arioso
National Yacht Club
Toronto Ontario, Canada
43° 37.9' N, 079° 24.4' W
http://www.user.firstclass.com/~Eric/Arioso
 
 
 
CnC Email List  on Friday, January 27, 2006 at 10:28 
PM -0500 wrote:
>Different schools of thought - go the plexus route or the "soft" sealer 
>/ bond route??
> 
>Many on the list prefer the Plexus citing the added benefits of 
>structural bonding.  I find that hard to accept as my boat and many 
>other C&C's in the area have replaced windows where the old ones were 
>not well bonded at all so not providing any structural strength and 
>with no apparent issues.  Leaks, yes but no structure issues.
> 
>Hunter, Sabre, Catalina, Tartan and C&C OEM as well as Select Plastics 
>all use one of three comparable "soft" sealer / bond systems
> 
>1)  Sika 295 UV - polyure

Re: Stus-List Garhauer Rigid Boom Vang

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Just go with the appropriate new Garhauer.

-Original Message-
From: "Peter Fell via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2015-‎03-‎02 7:24 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Garhauer Rigid Boom Vang

An update
 
The seller posted up a price ... $400 !!! I discussed it with him, armed with 
the info provided via this forum (especially Dennis ... thanks) and offered 
$150. He had a mild heart attack and went away ... came back later at $200. I 
went to look at the boom vang and it was missing the 3 “external” blocks + one 
of the sheaves was broken on the vang itself (not exactly the “excellent” 
condition that was described in the ad!)  The seller swore up and down that 
there never were any blocks with it and that he had paid $1200 for it in 2005 
and that it wasn’t a Garhauer. Well it definitely is an older model RV20-1 
model. 2-inch diameter tube and the length (uncompressed) is the same as the 
length of my current (soft) vang. I think there is a good possibility that the 
boom plate would fit my boom ... not so sure on the mast plate since the C&C 30 
mast is wider and the 27 has the sail groove that stands proud from the mast. 
However I had checked with Garhauer who said: 1) shouldn’t be any problems with 
spring tension between a 27 and a 30’'; and 2) new mast and boom plates would 
be $80 (US) or $40 each ... if only one is needed.  Regardless  I walked 
away, considering the missing blocks and broken sheave.
 
Well today the seller phoned me back ... he’s found the blocks and put the boom 
vang up for consignment at a local store. Not sure what they are asking at this 
point.
 
Question I have is after checking this thing out it seems to me to be probably 
1 size larger than what is really needed and would work best for the C&C 27.  
Just checking out the differences between 27 booms and 30 booms in the marina 
... the 30’s boom is much larger. The RV20-1 is meant for 28 – 44ft boat (as is 
the current RV20-1 SL model). I’m thinking a RV6 (aluminum, up to 32ft boat) or 
RV18-1 (28-36ft boat with a tube diameter 1-3/4") would be a better fit. So I 
think I’ve effectively talked myself out of this particular unit.
 
Anyone out there with a C&C 27 recall what model they are using? Any experience 
with the aluminum vs. the stainless versions? By the way, Garhauer has a 10% 
off sale right now till the end of March ... softens the blow a wee bit!
 
Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII
 
 
From: Dennis C. 
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2015 11:44 AM
To: Peter Fell ; CnClist 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Garhauer Rigid Boom Vang
 
I sell lots of used boat stuff on eBay.  I find 25-30% of new is common for 
marine items in very good condition.  Items in excellent to new condition might 
fetch 50%+ of new. 
 
Remember to make a $$ adjustment for the brackets.  You may need to have 
Garhauer make you new brackets.  That shouldn't cost much.
 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
 
On Tue, Feb 10, 2015 at 12:07 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Thanks ... current model pricing is $495 (US), I highly doubt that would apply 
to a 10+ year old boom vang. Hard to determine a used value  not something 
that comes up for sale very often as far as I can see so that’s why I’m asking.
 
From: RAYMOND SHIBE 
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2015 10:40 AM
To: Peter Fell 
Subject: RE: Stus-List Garhauer Rigid Boom Vang
 
Call Garhauer or go on their website for pricing.


On Tue, Feb 10, 2015 at 04:56 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List wrote:


I’m talking to a fellow here that has a Garhauer rigid vang for sale, from a 
C&C 30. Matching it up to info online I think it’s a RV20-1 ... an older model, 
not the current one.
 
I’m trying to get more specifics on this actual unit, but I’ve seen references 
online dated 2002 and 2006, so it’s at least in that age range.
 
I realize there may have to be some mods to adapt the boom and mast tangs to 
the 27’s mast.
 
Anyone got any clue what the boom vang might be worth?
 
Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII
 
 


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



 ___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Stove

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Alcohol stove fires can easily be extinguished with water
Surely a plus.

-Original Message-
From: "Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2015-‎03-‎06 11:55 AM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stove

You would have also discovered that many insurance companies will not insure a 
boat with a pressurized alcohol stove. They go strictly by the numbers, and 
those stoves have a very bad track record for claims. It is one of the "hot" 
items they look for in the insurance survey. 

The other issue with alcohol is that the flames it makes are virtually 
invisible, which can also lead to unintended consequences. 

Bill Bina


On 3/5/2015 10:14 PM, John McKay via CnC-List wrote:

An question from another new C&C 33  MK II owner.


I have been trying to get the original Hillerange two burner pressure alcohol 
stove working, and it scares me. One burner lights, flame is blue but not 
adjustable. The other sounds like a jet engine and burns about 8" high. Made an 
easy decision to scrap this.
Any suggestions about a new stove top would be appreciated


John from Enterprise___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel conditioners

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I swear by it. Have used it in the Atomic 4 as long as I have had my boat. Hard 
to get in Canada but readily available in US auto stores.
Moyer even recommends it.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 18, 2017, at 12:55 PM, svpegasus38 via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi all,
My new (to me) boat has water in all 3 fuel tanks. And one tank hasn't been 
used in 14 years, but is full, or mostly so.
An old salt told me that in the old days they swore by Marvel Mystery oil. Has 
anyone heard of this? . I have used Soltron in the past with good results. 
Trying to figure the best (easiest and cheapest) way to clean this tank. There 
is a clean out on it.
May question is would I be better off hiring a company to come and polish the 
fuel or try and do it myself?



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
Doug Mountjoy
POYC
Pegasus
Lf38
Significant Other
LF39
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List engine shut-off t-handle repair or replacement

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Start with Ottawa Fasteners on ROBERTSON Rd

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 19, 2017, at 7:42 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hello,

My t-handle on the engine shut-off has some broken threads. When I pulled the 
handle to turn off the engine, it stayed in my hand. It is a simple 
replacement, but I could not find a source anywhere in Canada. I found it on 
SBO and Catalina Direct, but with shipping, taxes, and after the exchange it 
comes to about $60.

I considered a proper thread insert, but a kit with a dozen inserts costs about 
$40.

I am thinking that there should be a way to restore the threads in a cheaper 
way. I was wondering if anyone has a reasonable way to do that. I am thinking 
about spreading some grease on a bolt with the correct size thread, putting 
some epoxy into the hole, and threading the bolt into the handle. The idea is 
that the epoxy should attach to the handle and not to the greased bolt. The 
thread is 1/4 - 20.

Am I completely out to lunch? Any ideas how to prepare he bolt, so that the 
epoxy won’t adhere to it?

Alternatively, if one knows of a good source, I am all ears. A tractor dealer? 
Some other equipment that might use such a handle?

Thanks in advance

Marek

1994 C270 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Winch handle holder

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Try the Chandlery in Ottawa _ on line.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 6, 2017, at 12:48 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Its metal:

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=suncor-winch-handle-holder&path=-1|118|2358547|2358553&id=1611093


On Thu, Jul 6, 2017 at 12:39 PM, Dave via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Anyone know where to buy these or similar in Canada or the US?
Single
https://www.marine-deals.co.nz/nylon-winch-handle-holder-black
Triple
https://danardmarine.com/product-info.php?pid45.html
Now Dealing with the nuisances on Windstar.
 Thanks, Dave.
33-2

Sent from my iPad

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




--
Joel
301 541 8551
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 25MKII, Tiller Length

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Extensions are a good solution. More flexibility.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 10, 2017, at 4:47 PM, David Kaseler via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi. Good plan.
My guess is the Anytiller guys know the original specks. Did you ask? We, on 
our 33 mark 1 bought a longer stock tiller (from West Marine I think) so the 
skipper could sit up against the bulkhead. Works really good, especially in 
racing situations. Crew working lines behind the skipper gives skipper a clear 
view during maneuvering situations.

Dave Kaseler
SLY
1975 C&C 33

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 10, 2017, at 9:49 AM, Bill Dakin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

25MKII owners, what is your tiller length and shape
http://anytiller.com/

I'm going to refit our Edson pedestal with the original tiller.

Bill Dakin
S/V Tapestry
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1986 C&C 44 balsa core isolated or not

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I'm surprised the surveyor doesn't know most of these answers himself.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 10, 2017, at 4:10 PM, Dan via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Regarding the 1986 C&C 44 I'm buying:

My surveyor got back to me having done only the moisture meter readings on the 
hull and topsides. The results were not horrific but there are some areas of 
concern and I have some questions for other C&C owners with Balsa cored boats 
from around 1986.

1. The surveyor asked if the balsa extends below the water line or is the boat 
solid glass waterline down?

2. There was a high moisture content found in the bow area, starboard side 
below the waterline just below the chain locker area. Is there a water tank 
there or could this be wet balsa?

3. There was a very high moisture content all around the shaft log (where the 
propeller shaft protrudes) - Does anyone know why that would be?

4. There was slightly elevated moisture around the anchor windlass and foot 
pedals. Was an electric windlass a standard install on a C&C44 or could this 
moisture be due to someone cutting a hole themselves without isolating the core?

Thanks everyone, sorry, I know this was a little longer but It'd be great to 
know what I'm dealing with! :)

Dan

On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 11:03 PM, Dan 
mailto:dgcorm...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Sorry if this was sent twice - the first time I tried it I was not registered 
but had no responses...

I'm looking at a 1986 C&C 44 to buy. Before I get into paying for a survey to 
check the core out with a moisture meter I'm wondering if any 44 owners out 
there have had any problems with wet core? - when you remove through hull 
fittings is the core isolated with solid glass to prevent egress or can you 
visibly see the balsa core layer?

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List traveller track/cars Harken vs others

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

My experience is if you plan to race, go Harken.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 12, 2017, at 6:55 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

When looking at "ball bearing" traveler and genoa car systems (as opposed to 
pin stop or slide track), design is a factor.  While some use T-track, others 
use X-track.  Some use recirculating ball bearings, others use wheels.

The design has a LOT to do with how the system handles loads.  I think that's 
why Harken is so well regarded.  While other brands may be good, my opinion is 
Harken's design handles the loads better, and therefore moves easier than 
others.  Just my opinion.  Whether the ease of movement is worth the price 
premium, well, that's your choice.

All I'm saying is look closely at the design.  Find and ask owners of different 
systems.  Hopefully, one can find owners who have or have had different brands 
and systems so you get an apples to apples comparison.

For instance, Touche's Harken traveler seems to move easier than Touche's 
Lewmar genoa cars.  Just saying.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Wed, Jul 12, 2017 at 7:27 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
It is good to remember when discussing this that Harken track is measured in 
millimeters rather than inches (usually 22mm, 27mm, 32mm).  Other cars do not 
fit on Harken track properly and likely vice versa.

I did contact Garhaur about new genoa lead cars for Persistence on the existing 
track (22mm small boat track 3.6m in length).  They said they could not do it 
(would not?).  Would have had to be custom.

In the end I came across a good deal on the mid range genoa cars and track ends 
(27mm) and had to purchase separately the aft track ends and new tracks (the 
ones that came with my new gear were only 1m long and I needed 3.6m).  Replaced 
tracks (PITA) and cars with the new Harken gear and is more suited to the size 
and loads on Persistence.  Sold the old tracks and cars to a friend who is 
using on his C&C 30.

This brings to mind that I have two 1 meter Harken low beam non captive ball 
tracks 27mm midrange and matching backing plates.  These are new and have never 
been installed on a boat but are circa 2009.

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS
http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt


From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2017 6:00 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler for C&C 35 Mk II

Sean,

I have Lewmar Ocean 1 ball bearing genoa cars and a Harken traveler.  In my 
opinion, the Harken is superior.  Harken does make a high beam variable spacing 
traveler track (Harken R32HB) which may fit your application.  Harken tends to 
be a "bit" more pricey, however.  Here's a link to Touche's traveler setup:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsX0dGcEV2Mm1QNUE

It has a 4:1 endless traveler sheet which passes through bulkhead mounted 
swivel cam cleats.  It can be operated easily from forward or aft of the 
traveler.

While I don't have experience with Garhauer travelers, many on the list speak 
highly of them.  I have other Garhauer items on my boat and am positively 
impressed with them.  I have also had Garhauer make custom items for both my 
boat and clients boats.  Good stuff.

A traveler that operates well is, in my opinion, a safety item.  Many 
port/starboard collisions are partially to blame because a traveler would not 
drop quickly or a mainsheet would not release easily.  The port boat was not 
able to turn down due to being extremely powered up.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 80' C&C 30 Smile Photo

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

My experience, 20+ years with a 27-3, is to fill with a flexible compound, not 
something firm like epoxy. The boat flexes, you need to allow it to do so.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 21, 2017, at 11:03 AM, Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Forgot the photo!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_lwczpvPcEHY2lHTzZnMngwbWM/view?usp=sharing

Thanks,
Chris


On Jul 21, 2017, at 8:01 AM, Chris Hobson 
mailto:ch...@hobsonbuildsco.com>> wrote:

Lifted the boat and saw the smile, think it was done with g-flex? Apparently 
the crack is hairline, not deep, not structural. And was filled -- now 1.5” 
wide with the filler. Apparently no one went aground - by current or previous 
owner (only two). Surveyor thinks otherwise and says to monitor drop and re-bed 
if it reappears. The bolts were clean in the bilge, no movement on the crack 
when two of us heaved as hard as we could. Maybe it’s fine, thoughts?


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List New owner, 1980 C&C 30' MK1, SV "Going"

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Good attitude -good luck!

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 26, 2017, at 3:50 PM, svpegasus38 via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I felt the same 2 months ago when I bought my LF39. I had almost finished 
upgrading my other boat, a LF38. When my neighbor comes up to my girlfriend and 
says "we are selling Significant Other, are you interested?" Of course we go 
look (I had toured the boat before). Afterwards I ask how much? I am now a 2 
boat owner.
Glad I did the move, really like new boat, not that I didn't like old boat. But 
now I have a whole list of new projects.



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
Doug Mountjoy
POYC
Pegasus (for sale)
Lf38
Significant Other
LF39

 Original message 
From: Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 7/26/17 07:08 (GMT-08:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chris Hobson mailto:ch...@hobsonbuildsco.com>>
Subject: Stus-List New owner, 1980 C&C 30' MK1, SV "Going"

Still squaring away the details for my second day of boat ownership on my new 
(to me) 1980 C&C 30 MK1. Yesterday when I signed the papers, got the keys and 
cracked a beer to watch my first sunset in the cockpit, I had mixed feelings of 
elation and a good dose of: oh-shit-I-just-bought-an-old-boat. Because who 
really knows if the surveyor missed something, or what’s going on between a 
hull and a keel joint. I’m not getting any younger and I feel like the fun 
happens when you jump in the water and figure it out as you go. Maybe we should 
change the definition of what a boat is: A hole in the water in which one 
jumps. Anyway I’m proud to be part of the group and always wanted a C&C. I’m an 
Ontario boy who’s now on the west coast and ready for sailing, with a whopping 
to-do list to get through in the coming months. Wish me luck!

Chris


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

So far I have not seen anything about rigging - inspections, checks, 
replacement?

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 1, 2017, at 12:58 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Paul

I looked at your engine rebuilt post.  What a daunting job!

Great work

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul E via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2017 1:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul E
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

John,

Wally’s site is a wonderful guide and inspiration.   There are several other 
Landfall 38 owners who have insightful blogs: RainDays, Raft, VioletHour; are 
just the first few which come up on a google search.

I have recently done much of the same refits on my boat.  Below is a direct 
link to my project page.


http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

On Aug 1, 2017, at 10:25 AM, 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

From: john wright 
mailto:johnrogerswri...@gmail.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 18:35:48 -0400
Subject: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
Hello everyone

I am about to begin a complete refit on what is the best boat  for my purpose ( 
sailing around Cape Code as we get ready to do the Caribbean 1500 in 2019), 
after looking or sailing at least 100 boat over the past 4 years. The boat is 
in better than average condition, I will post pictures later.

I have the work broken down into three categories, and would appreciate any 
recommendations and reorganizing of the list.

Thanks

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Sounds like you are on top of things. Bon voyage!

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 1, 2017, at 9:11 PM, john wright via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

That was great and helpful.

Thank Dave
On Aug 1, 2017, at 6:35 AM, Dave S via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Inspect label and secure all wiring.replace as required.
Inspect and service (as required) all through hulls.
Inspect (and replace as required)  all hoses.
Inspect, clean and protect all key electrical grounding points.
Consider upgraded protection for exposed engine controls and instruments.
Consider upgraded ventilation for holding tank.
Ensure batteries are well secured
Upgrade air movement within lockers etc where possible.
Inspect and improve any marginal bulkhead tabbing.
When working on critical deck hardware consider upgrading backing plates, etc, 
where practical.
convenient stowage for hatch drop boards, emergency tiller, ditch 
bag/flares/horn.
make/buy webbing jacklines

Howzat?


Dave
33-2




- Forwarded message --
From: john wright 
mailto:johnrogerswri...@gmail.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 18:35:48 -0400
Subject: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
Hello everyone

I am about to begin a complete refit on what is the best boat  for my purpose ( 
sailing around Cape Code as we get ready to do the Caribbean 1500 in 2019), 
after looking or sailing at least 100 boat over the past 4 years. The boat is 
in better than average condition, I will post pictures later.

I have the work broken down into three categories, and would appreciate any 
recommendations and reorganizing of the list.

Thanks

Level 1: Repairs and Installations
Replace old set of AGM batteries with new set
Remove old engine, clean and repaint engine room, rebuild engine bed as needed 
to fit the new Yanmar 3JH5e
Replace all hoses for new engine
Move raw water sea strainer and Racor fuel filter to easier location to monitor 
visually
Gelcoat – fill all chips and nicks with gelcoat
Clean stains with FSR
Repair teak grating at pedestal (epoxy the connections to frame)
Clean teak with teak cleaner
Replace teak combing with thicker mahogany boards
Clean and Polish all gelcoat surfaces
Hull bottom – sand and repaint with anti-fouling ablative paint
Re-install mast and tune rigging
Make line hanger in cockpit below deck winches functional once again
Add gasket to aft access panel under helm seat
Repair/ refinish wood framework to companionway
Re-varnish companionway door
Make better drainage in port cockpit locker and revarnish partition wood
Install the new Whale Gusher manual pump in cockpit
Update propane solenoid
Remake companionway door cover to fit better
Deck and House – clean and re-varnish woodwork (handrails, dorade boxes)
Clean and polish all stainless hardware
Replace gasket material on all opening ports
Repaint all dorade vents
Replace traveler cam cleat
Clean, sand and varnish bow platform
Stanchion support on starboard bent – take to shop and straighten
Add maintenance coat of varnish on floors and re-secure
Install and varnish framework for windows
Repair and revarnish bulkheads where needed
Re-install all cabinets and tables
Finish installation of canvas cover for ceiling in forward berth
Ice box cover – install hardware and gasket
Head – re-cut new mirror and install
Forward cabin has trim work that needs to be installed
Brow in forward cabin to be replaced with new trim work


Level 2: Updates and Improvements
Hull repainting – large project to be described as we get closer to that project
Paint steering pedestal white
Replace instruments
Replace opening port in cockpit with new
Add winch handle holders in cockpit
Paint new non-skid in cockpit seats and floor
Make set of cockpit cushions
Install a cockpit shower
Re-bed all deck gear, hardware and chainplates (last another 20 years)
Replace all blocks with updated equipment
Replace all running rigging
Replace genoa sheet cars with moveable sheet lead under load
Replace missing wood bungs on teak toe rail (may need to reset screws deeper as 
wood has shrunk over time)
Sand toe rail and varnish
Winches to be stripped cleaned and greased
Paint interior of chain locker
Make a grating for chain locker to help rode to dry
Stanchion bases and cleats to be removed and powder coated to original color
All deck non-skid to be renewed with white or Hatteras soft yellow (Tartan 
Yachts uses this style)
Add stanchion rollers for headsail furling line to lead to cockpit
Replace steering cables with new
Replace all interior lighting with LED
Install Isotherm hot water tank
Replace interior cushions with new foam and fabrics
Replace AC/DC switch panel with BluSea panel
Add swim ladder


Level 3: Enhancements
Replace manual windlass with an electric version
Upgrade chain and rope to fit new windlass
Add pad-eye on bow platform for code zero sail
Add Fischer Panda Perfect Power iSeries Generator
Install reverse cycle 

Re: Stus-List Southern Nova Scotia

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Don't miss Mahone Bay.

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 18, 2017, at 1:32 PM, Dan via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Mahone Bay is a joy, but old town Lunenburg has lots of good food, shops, 
museums and history to check out. You will want to see "The Ovens" - look it up 
on google. It's not far from there and should not be missed. If you've got the 
time you could check out some local beaches or go into LaHave on the light 
house route. Airbnb has some really good deals around there worth checking out. 
Have Fun!!

Dan
C&C44
Halifax NS


On Fri, Aug 18, 2017 at 2:25 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi,

My wife and I are going on vacation to Nova Scotia (we will be just outside of 
Lunenburg) and I was wondering if any of the listers, who know the place quite 
well, could provide some inside knowledge (where to go, what to see, what to 
avoid etc.). If some of that involves sailboats or sailing, that would be a 
bonus. We are planning to visit the Bluenose II, but this is as far as I got 
with sailing-related activities.

Any ideas would be welcome.

Btw. we are not taking to boat to get there (I would have to retire or quit my 
job if I wanted to) (;-)

thanks

Marek
Ottawa, ON

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Learning to sail in a small boat

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Very good points. Windsurfing will substitute nicely for mall boat sailing.

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 29, 2017, at 9:26 PM, Neil Andersen via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

For what it's worth, many of the sailing schools that I have heard of start 
novices out in Catalina/Capri 21's or J24's.

Neil
Foxfire C&C 32
Rock Hall, MD

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 9:20:07 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List Learning to sail in a small boat

Seems to be interest in this topic.

I'm a strange one.  I'm a recovering beach cat sailor but I understand the 
wisdom of learning to sail in a small boat.

I greatly improved my sailing acumen with some time on a Laser and again on a 
Lido (Still have the Lido).  Simply put, you can feel the tiniest changes in a 
small boat.  Shift your weight an inch or so and it affects the boat.  Wave 
effects are amplified.  You just "feel" the boat so much better.  Plus, 
dinghies are a kick in the butt to sail.  Good fun!

Many of the best sailors in my area started in dinghies.  We have Mallory Cup 
winners, regional winners, etc.  They all swear by learning in dinghies.  
Everything you learn in a dinghy transfers to big boats.

On the other hand, I can appreciate that many folks are uncomfortable in small, 
unstable dinghies.  Heck, many folks are uncomfortable on some big stiff 
sailboats.  :)

If you're a cruiser who is not interested in racing or performance sailing, you 
should have no problem skipping the dinghy learning.  If you want to improve 
your sailing skills, consider jumping in a sailing dinghy and playing.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Garhauer Genoa Cars

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Add me to the last st of very satisfied customers - vang, cars on a C&C 27-III.

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 30, 2017, at 10:11 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

It was posted a while ago, that Garhauer Marine no longer sells ball bearing 
jib cars but only sold cars with plastic (Delrin) bearings.  I've found this 
not to be completely correct.  If you really want ball bearings, you can talk 
to Guido and he will make them for you (same price).  They prefer to sell the 
plastic ones because many customers have had trouble installing or removing the 
cars and losing bearings (they don't float).  He said there's not a significant 
performance difference between ball bearing and plastic, but conceded that the 
ball bearings were slightly better.  I ordered the ball bearing version and am 
very happy with them.  If your are careful installing them, they are easy to 
install and work very well.  Garhauer makes bullet proof stuff at a very 
reasonable price.  I have no affiliation with Garhauer Marine or any of their 
employees.  I'm just a happy customer that has purchased many products from 
them.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Check the fuel bowl for sediment.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 18, 2017, at 10:30 AM, Randal Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers-
> 
> I’m having a problem with my Atomic 4, and hoped you might have some thoughts 
> to share.
> 
> When I went out for a sail yesterday, she started right up, as always.  But 
> then she cut out heading away from the marina.  Initially I suspected a fuel 
> flow problem, as the petcock on the tank has become difficult to turn.  After 
> ensuring the petcock was in the open position and the tank was full, she 
> started right up again and ran smoothly for a good 10 minutes.  Then she cut 
> out again, and wouldn’t start back up after some cranking.  I sailed for a 
> couple hours anyway.  When I tried to start her to come back in, nothing 
> happened when I pressed the starter button.  I assumed my batteries didn’t 
> have enough amperage for the starter, after all the previous cranking, though 
> my other electronics were running fine.  So I docked under sail power, pulled 
> the batteries, and brought them home to charge.  They both tested at 12.7 
> volts and 83% charge when I put them on my charger.  Now they’re both at 100% 
> and 12.9 volts.
> 
> So I now suspect a faulty ignition circuit, and possibly a faulty starter 
> circuit.  Perhaps a loose connection or broken wire is having the same effect 
> as pushing in the ignition switch.  I’ve yet to get into the lazarette and 
> start tracing the wiring and testing with a multimeter, but that’s my next 
> step.  I thought I’d write the list first to see if anyone has any quick 
> hypotheses.
> 
> Thanks in Advance,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 301- #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Garhauer Story...

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Thanks for posting this.

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 18, 2017, at 10:47 AM, David via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

So I have been volunteering at the Marion-Bermuda Race for the past 10 years or 
so and the booth that is located right across from ours is Garhauer.  I would 
see folks manning the booth but was usually too busy to think much more of it 
as we were busy fielding our own visitors.

Well this past Sunday I find myself talking with a gentleman at our booth that 
was from Garhauer and it was Guido!  We had a nice conversation about how the 
company started and I thought you might appreciate the great story he conveyed.

They started the company in 1971 and the name Garhauer is a compilation of the 
first half of Guido’s last name and the last half of Bill’s (the other founder) 
last name.
Bill was in tooling and Guido in engineering at another non-marine company when 
they started talking about starting their own company.  Not knowing what 
product line to manufacture they started to look around at opportunities.  Bill 
owned a sailboat and they looked critically at its hardware and the market.

So…they amble over to MacGregor yachts and in the middle of a parking lot full 
of boats on trailers they were approached by a gentleman who asked if they 
needed help.  They asked to speak with Roger MacGregor.  Well that gentleman 
was Roger MacGregor!   After talking about why they were there, Roger invited 
them back to his office.

Roger showed them the mast cradle used when the mast was stepped for trailering 
(it was inserted into the gudgeons) and asked them for an estimate.  They gave 
him one on the spot and Roger ordered 200 units right there.   That started 
them on their path to become a vendor of most of the boat manufactures in the 
Costa Mesa area for years to come.

Whereas in the past manufacturers was their primary customer and the retail 
customer a small piece.  Presently the inverse, not surprisingly, is now true.

Guido is a very nice man and I was sure to enthusiastically convey all your C & 
C accolades of his great customer service and products.





Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List question about a C&C 30 mkii keel

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I believe that the secret to a successful smile repair is to use a filling 
compound which flexes. The keel flexes under sail and hard fillers eventually 
crack, have to be routed out. Firefly (27-111) uses marine goop successfully in 
fresh water.
Good luck!

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: September 22, 2017 10:15 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List question about a C&C 30 mkii keel

C&C smile.  This is common where the lead keel meets the fiberglass keel stub.  
First order of business is to torque/check of the keel bolts.  This is done on 
the hard.  Then check for water ingress in the water.  From the pictures it 
looks like someone else already did some fill work.

Worst case scenario you'll have to drop the keel and re-bed.

Second to worst case is that you'll use some type of epoxy and filler and 
fiberglass to patch a bandaid around the crack.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 35-3 Rudder Drain Holes

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

We drain the rudder on the 27-3 as follows.
Make  3 drain holes, one high up on the trading edge of the rudder, one 3-4 
inches from the tip, and one on the bottom of the rudder. We drilled 1/4 in 
holes and then tapped them to accept hex-head cap screws.
Water comes out in the fall, cold weather takes care of residual moisture. 
Re-insert in spring with a flexible sealant on the screws. Has worked for 20 
years.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 7, 2017, at 3:56 PM, schiller via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

One of the items in our new C&C 35, Mark III was that there was moisture in the 
rudder and the surveyor suggested drilling drainage holes.  Anyone want to 
suggest the location to drill?  We hauled out last night and I am going up to 
the boat to disconnect batteries on Wednesday.  I assume that the drainage 
holes will be in the lower quadrant of the rudder.  Should they be in the side 
or in the bottom surface (or does it really matter.

I never had to do this on my Redwing 35 so this is new to us.

Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35, Mark III, #028
"Grace"
White Lake, Michigan

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List To Rod Stright

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I got it.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 22, 2017, at 12:38 PM, Greg Sutherland via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I did Mike.
Greg

On Oct 22, 2017, at 1:20 PM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Did everyone get this email.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

On Oct 22, 2017, at 10:33 AM, Stu via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Your email address bounced 2 messages from me.  Do you have another address?

Stu


___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   
https://nam03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray&data=02%7C01%7Cbluenosesailing%40hotmail.com%7Cf3b2dbd3e9924672561208d51968d46e%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636442860382326645&sdata=JGGvNr5oy2TXq5WYjLlTX8zb8rOyjx3RE2jjQbJapvA%3D&reserved=0

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   
https://nam03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray&data=02%7C01%7Cbluenosesailing%40hotmail.com%7Cf3b2dbd3e9924672561208d51968d46e%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636442860382326645&sdata=JGGvNr5oy2TXq5WYjLlTX8zb8rOyjx3RE2jjQbJapvA%3D&reserved=0

All contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 30 MKII - Winter or Spring anti-fouling/bottom job?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Firefly-C&C27-3 is in fresh water. We sand for smoothness and touch up. Not a 
full cover every season.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 23, 2017, at 12:07 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Do you need a complete bottom job?
Each time I repaint the bottom, I wet sand with the sanding sponge, let it dry 
a day or two and put the same, or compatible, bottom paint on.
Don't need to get to bare bottom unless changing paints or if it's so thick 
that lots of chunks come off.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL






On Oct 20, 2017 4:23 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Two things I don't do: replace a shingle roof and a bottom job.  Gladly pay 
someone else to do those.

Dennis C.

On Fri, Oct 20, 2017 at 2:45 PM, Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
This is a two part query about doing the bottom of a sailboat by a first-timer.

The high pressure spray that removed the previous saltwater growth of 1.5 years 
(during the survey in July) also removed part of the protective coat of 
anti-fouling that was left. I thought I would get around to re-doing the bottom 
this past summer/fall. It didn’t happen. Now I'm approaching winter and 
contemplating a haul-out in November (in rainy Vancouver) or waiting until 
spring. But I’m not sure how much more work would be involved by putting it off 
until spring. Would like to hear some other opinions on this.

I also have a marina telling me soda blasting is the way to go. And based on 
the hell that is involved with a project like this, my lack of time and the 
weather, I’m contemplating it.

Chris Hobson
S/V Going
1980 C&C MKI
Hull 615




__ _

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurr ay

All contributions are greatly appreciated!


__ _

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fundraising results

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Couldn’t agree more with Bill’s comments.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 26, 2017, at 1:20 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


We lived through this discussion a long time ago at very great length. We do 
not need to re-litigate it again. We were all originally on a group hosted by 
Sailnet. Sailnet changed hands, and we were essentially left homeless. At that 
time, we had a long debate about where to go. Google really didn't exist then. 
The big player was Yahoo. There were a few other options, including staying 
with the new owners of Sailnet, even though they had dumped our archives. 
Having been burned badly by allowing someone else to host us, we were all very 
happy to have Stu provide us a stable home, where some outside bean-counter 
would never again have the option to exterminate us, and throw our content in 
the trash. Stu has done an amazing job all these years, and at one time 
mentioned that there was a succession plan in place. Anyone who thinks this is 
in any way a "business" for Stu should just go back out whatever door they came 
in. He has put an enormous amount of time and effort into keeping us together, 
and I would be shocked if the bottom line has not been a bit of red ink for 
him. Stu has formal arrangements for use of the official C&C material on his 
website and use of the logo for various items he occasionally makes available 
as modest fund raisers. The founders and principal players of the old C&C have 
expressed gratitude for Stu's efforts in keeping their legacy alive. Our old 
C&C's are also more saleable, and at a higher price, thanks to Stu's generous 
work.

Bill Bina

On 10/26/2017 12:54 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List wrote:

Stu, Thank you for what you do. No offense intended, but this is my perspective:

Mike,

I have lots of stuff on Google drives. This does not make it Google's property. 
This email list, in support of a brand of sailboats, is a Community of people 
who share a common passion. I personally do not think one person should own, 
control, and profit? from the experiences shared by many, for free, in support 
of a brand of sailboats we all love.

God forbid something happens to Stu, but if it did this list would evaporate 
unless there is a succession plan that I am unaware of. Stu does not own the 
intellectual property on this list and does not own any part or version of the 
actual C&C brand to my knowledge. If anything we should be sending money to Rob 
Ball, Cuthbertson's family, etc. for the designs they labored over and executed 
so well.

 Cloud storage is storage. That's all.

I have asked twice about what it costs to run the list. An answer hasn't been 
provided.

Thank you.

On Wed, Oct 25, 2017, 5:26 PM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
This is stus list and moving to cloud may make it their list.

I have met people through this list that I have later met in person who are now 
friends. I have met people who I have never met in person who are friends  I 
have solved engine problems due to input from this list and learned that cows 
do better foredeck work than me. I have learned a lot.

This list is stus and we have all benefited. Moving to cloud makes it not stus. 
I am happy to support for all the c&cs my family and i have owned or sailed on 
and the ones that are not c&c. I believe strongly that this list is so good 
because of Stu

I also wonder if cows live on foredeck in Mexico

Mike Hoyt
The most consistent not currently c&c poster
The biggest interloper
One of the strongest believers in what Stu has built

1987 non c&c
Persistence
Out of the water today
Halifax, ns
_

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List News story

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

My spider sense is tingling.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 26, 2017, at 7:57 PM, svpegasus38 via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

How do you get stranded on an "otherwise functional sailboat"? The engine is 
called auxiliary for a reason!!

Just asking.



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
Doug Mountjoy
POYC
Pegasus (for sale)
Lf38
Rebecca Leah
LF 39

 Original message 
From: John Pennie via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 10/26/17 16:01 (GMT-08:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Pennie mailto:john.pen...@icloud.com>>
Subject: Stus-List News story

Ok, wtf? Story on news tonight about a sailboat that was stranded in the 
Pacific for 5months after their engine broke down on an otherwise functional 
boat.  Apparently the crew survived as they had a water maker and a year’s 
supply of oatmeal.  Something not add up here?  And who really has a 1 year 
supply of oatmeal for two people and a dog?

Gotta be more coming on this one...

John


Sent from my iPad
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Adjustable Genoa Cars, 1994 C&C 37/40+

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Did you include the track size? There are standard widths. You may have to 
change track .

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 19, 2017, at 5:23 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

The Genoa Tracks on our 1990 C&C 37/40 XL have line adjustable cars and are 
made by Harken USA.  It is possible the factory may have installed different 
manufacturer's tracks, depending on what the original owner ordered, but ours 
are Harken.

At the same time, our Babystay Track and the other short Genoa Tracks with pin 
stop cars on the coach roof are all made by Schaefer Marine.

Link to a photo of the port side Genoa Car: 
https://photos.app.goo.gl/XeKiBsFFUVN6vKUG3

Ken H.

On 19 December 2017 at 16:34, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello all,

I was wondering if you folks might be able to give me some guidance.  I ordered 
adjustable Genoa track cars from Garhauer, and even sent them a photo of the 
track.  When they got here, the cars won't fit - they will not even slide over 
the track.  I sent new photos to Garhauer, and Guido looked at them and 
informed me that not only do they not make adjustable cars that fit, they can't 
even custom make them.

Have you folks obtained adjustable cars, and if so, from where?

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Keel bolt torque

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

On the 27- mik III I just make sure the extension stays vertical. Not dealing 
with that much torque.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 15, 2018, at 10:44 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hopefully, I'm visualizing the situation correctly.  The configuration I see is 
the socket on the nut, an extension of X inches held by a bushing several 
inches above the socket, then the multiplier on top of the extension.

I just don't see a difference for the multiplier if the extension is held 
firmly.  What difference does it make if the multiplier is 1 inch, 12 inches or 
24 inches from the socket if the extension is held where it can't tilt or 
misalign?  See what I'm thinking?

Dennis C.

On Sun, Jan 14, 2018 at 9:15 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
That's a pretty good idea Dennis.  So I take it that you prefer getting the 
multiplier out of the hole and using the handle?

Josh

On Jan 14, 2018 8:16 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Get some PVC pipe, PVC fittings or some wood pieces and make a bushing for the 
hole in the sole to steady the top of the extension and keep it aligned.  
Torque away!

Dennis C.

On Sun, Jan 14, 2018 at 6:09 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
So now I have a new problem.  Keel bolt #4 is down a deep hole and is 
constrained to a narrow channel.  The immediate thought is to simply use an 
extension.  Problem is that the torque multiplier specifically states to not 
use an extension... I assume on the output shaft.  I also assume that the 
reason for this is to ensure alignment stays perfect while applying such 
extreme torque.

So, is it better to brace the handle-less multiplier in the bottom of the hole 
while using an extension on the 1/2" drive input shaft to apply the required 
torque?  Without a handle I'll shore up the edges of the hull to attempt to 
prevent excessive point loads and crushing.

Or is it better to use a 13" long, 3/4" drive, extension between the socket and 
the multiplier to get the multiplier above the hole?  This would allow using 
the handle on the multiplier.

Here are some pictures:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1G3HVN_jj0PYa0e5Otk9nwdqVoR4CYTCy

Thanks,
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Jan 13, 2018 10:35 PM, muckl...@gmail.com wrote:
It looks like I should have checked my standard nut/bolt sizes.  See the 
attached chart.

Josh




On Jan 13, 2018 7:54 PM, "Josh Muckley" 
mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>> wrote:
The only thing I had close to 1-13/16 was 1-7/8 which seemed to fit the #5 bolt 
and it was only best measured as a 1-1/4" stud.

#1 and #7 match, measuring 1" and fit 1-1/2 socket.

Here's the latest chart (* denotes unchecked)
Keel bolts (fwd to aft):
 Nut   stud
1 - 1 1/2 (38mm)1 (25mm)
2 - 2 3/16 (56mm)  1 1/2 (38mm)
*3 - 2 1/4 (57mm)  1 1/2 (38mm)
4 - 2 3/16 (56mm)  1 1/2 (38mm)
5 - 1 7/8 (47.5mm)1 1/4 (32mm)
*6 - 2 1/4 (57mm)  1 1/2 (38mm)
7 - 1 1/2 (38mm)1 (25mm)
*8 - 3/4 (19.5mm)1/2 (13mm)

Josh

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Battery Equalizer Solution?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Recommend it for batteries you can top up deep cycle or starting. Not snake oil 
in my experience.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 26, 2018, at 3:17 PM, Lee Youngblood via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> Any one used this Battery Equalizer solution?  
> https://www.batterystuff.com/battery-restoration/fluid/BE12oz.html
> 
> Snake oil or useful?
> 
> Thanks, Lee
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Best place to find what I need?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Garhauer are an excellent replacement parts source.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 25, 2018, at 3:10 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Sigrid,
> Congratulations on your Landfall 35 purchase.  
> The closest thing to Catalina Direct would be South Shore Yachts  in Niagra 
> on the Lake Ontario, who can supply a number of C&C special parts. Your boat, 
> like mine was probably made in Rhode Island, so some items may be a bit more 
> challenging to locate.  Battens and replacement leech line would be something 
> a sailmaker would be able to supply. Battens are also available through a 
> marine dealer such as APS or West Marine.  Simply measure the batten pocket 
> on the sail before ordering.  The stock rope clutches were Schaefer items but 
> would likely be best replaced with a newer design from Spinlock or Lewmar.
> Good luck with the new boat!
> Chuck Gilchrest 
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 35 Landfall 
> Padanaram MA
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Feb 25, 2018, at 12:22 PM, Sigrid via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> I just purchased a 1984 c&c 35 Landfall.  I previously had a Catalina 27.   
>> Is there a website or store to locate parts for cnc, like there is at 
>> catalinadirect?   I'm looking for battens and new leech line for mainsail, 
>> clutches, among other things.  
>> 
>> Thanks
>> Sigrid Johnson 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Some Saturday morning reading.

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Thank you for this post.

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 9, 2018, at 10:01 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Grab a coffee and get comfortable, here is a bit of Saturday morning reading 
for you.

Below is a link to another of my occasional histories of remarkable C&C 37/40.  
In some of these stories it is the boat or events the boat is involved in that 
are remarkable, in others it is the owners.

This entry is more about two remarkable owners this particular C&C 37R enjoyed 
over the years.  Thanks to everyone who helped me gather the info for it, I 
hope you enjoy reading it.

https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.ca/p/the-third-wave.html


//(\\./) (\\(\\\.(\/)/ /)/

Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C&C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia

https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.ca/p/salazar.html

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Traveler fit?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Talk to Garhauer as well.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 14, 2018, at 11:55 AM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hello from frozen Michigan.  I am still spending my kids' inheritance on deck 
hardware.

Question for 35-3 owners or others:  Has anyone replaced the aging Schaefer 
main traveler?  What advice might you offer...Defender has a sale on Lewmar 
traveler kits, size 2 which would offer enough capacity for us.  But...I am not 
at the boat, and wonder if the aluminum traveler bridge that houses the current 
track will allow the change to Lewmar?  Appears that the car-mounted cam cleats 
might be obstructed by the bridge "tray" height in the mid-section.  The Lewmar 
track appears lower in the pictures.  Current Schaefer setup has outboard 
mounted cam cleats.
Any advice on replacement traveler selection?

PS...Ice fishermen are still driving trucks to shanties on Hessel Bay. Yech.


Chuck Saur

​Morning Sky C$C 35-3
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Curiouser and curiouser, Alice.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 30, 2018, at 3:03 PM, John Conklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Following along !! I have the same 3HM in my  new to me 1982 37 Having some  
Issues with overheating right now. There is an anti freeze tank and some kind 
of what looksOverflow tank was empty, and   looks like some type of  added on 
pump,  as it partially covers the plate 3HM plate in the front. YES “bass 
akwards”  engine and very hard to reach exhaust elbow as well  I will post some 
pics as well But not sure what to do either?


John Conklin


From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2018 2:39:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest
Subject: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM

Silly me.  Since I bought my 1983 Landfall 35 a bit over 2 years ago, I had 
been under the assumption since there was an “expansion tank” on the engine 
that had coolant in it, that it was a fresh water cooled engine from the 
factory.  It is a Yanmar 3HM 30.   No (F) on the engine tag.  I had never even 
bothered to look..  Yeah, the heat exchanger looked a bit different from the 
one in the Yanmar manual, but since I’d been having a marina commission and 
decommission my engine each year, changing water pump impellers as necessary 
(“go ahead and do it”), I thought all was OK.  I even had a raw water pump 
changed out when the old one was demolished due to the “cam” screw backing out 
and galling the inside of the pump.  Turns out there’s more going on.

Low and behold, this year, when the mechanic looked around the engine, he 
mentioned that it was the first time he’d ever seen a small diesel with not one 
but two raw water pumps.  As it turns out, the engine appears to have had a 
fresh water conversion which was made by Sen-Dure, (thus the Sen-Dure expansion 
tank/heat exchanger) and a second external pump running off a belt.  So one of 
the two coolant pumps is actually a circulation pump (the one down low on the 
engine) and the other is a raw water pump..the one we replaced last year.

Has anyone ever heard of C&C converting engines from Raw to Fresh at the 
factory (Barry Carroll, Middletown RI built boat), or is it more likely an 
owner conversion?  My mechanic says that the rubber impeller on a raw water 
pump will never hold up to the heat of the interior engine coolant and will 
always burn up  impellers prematurely if I keep things as they are.  At one 
point Yanmar made a fresh water conversion kit for 3HM engines, but very 
unlikely there would be any availability considering the motor hasn’t been 
built since 1983.
This engine is somewhat dastardly in that it is installed backwards with a 
V-Drive, making access to the “front” of the motor a really tough job.
Right now, I’m at a crossroads which involves:

  1.  Finding a suitable circulation pump that is up to the job for the 
existing system, since I just de-scaled the heat exhchanger and bought a new 
stainless mixing elbow
  2.  Finding the needed parts to do a Yanmar factory Fresh water conversion
  3.  Keep the boat out of the water this year and save up to re-power. 
Lavishing multiple thousands at a 36 year old diesel may not be the best way to 
spend money.
Any suggestions would be welcome..
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 Landfall 35
Padanaram, MA


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C crest

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I would be up for crests or decals , too.



Sent from Mail for Windows 10




From: CnC-List  on behalf of Allan Hester via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2018 10:54:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Allan Hester
Subject: Stus-List C&C crest



Hi Listers,

The C&C crests on the side of the cabin of my 35 mk3 are corroded and faded. 
Does anyone know where I can buy new crests?

They are made of aluminum and about 3" x 1.5".

Thanks

Al H.

C&C 35 Mk3
Pacific Ranger
Vancouver
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List El Faro

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Incredible story. Thanks for posting.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 27, 2018, at 5:50 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Not C&C related, but certainly maritime related - dramatic story about the El 
Faro, a 1970s container ship that was lost at sea on October 1st, 2015 in 
Hurricane Joaquin:
https://www.vanityfair.com/news/2018/04/inside-el-faro-the-worst-us-maritime-disaster-in-decades

Hope all you C&C'ers are well.

Steve

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 34 1981 Wet rudder - necessary to rebuild/replace?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Same problem on a 27 Mk III. What we do is have rain holes, one near the top of 
the rudder , one low down on the leading edge, one on the bottom. In sailing 
season we insert threaded plugs sealed with Vaseline to keep the rudder dry. 
They come out in the fall, a few drops leak out and the rudder dries out over 
the winter. (On the hard in Ontario). Has been successful for over 10 years so 
far.

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Matthew L. Wolford 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, June 4, 2018 9:17 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 34 1981 Wet rudder - necessary to rebuild/replace?

The rudder on my 1976 C&C 42 Custom was also wet when I bought the boat.  My 
repair guru drilled a bunch of holes in a pattern, put the rudder in a plywood 
box that he made for this purpose, and “baked” it at about 150 degrees for two 
or three weeks.  He then filled all the holes with West System and put several 
layers of barrier coat on the surface.  He also did something to seal the area 
where the rudder post enters at the top (which, like your boat, is normally out 
of the water).  We checked the rudder with a moisture meter for a couple years 
after the fix, and it stayed dry.  I haven’t checked it lately and am not 
concerned.  I don’t know if salt water creates an additional issue (I’m on 
freshwater).

From: Nathan Post via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2018 8:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Nathan Post
Subject: Stus-List C&C 34 1981 Wet rudder - necessary to rebuild/replace?

Hello all,

I'm new to this list - my wife and I just purchased a 1981 C&C 34 center board 
version.  The boat has been on the hard for about 1.5 years after being a salt 
water boat here in the Boston area.  The surveyor assessed that the rudder was 
"saturated and delaminating" and he recommended rebuilding or replacing it due 
to concern about corrosion of the stainless rudder post in the low-oxygen 
environment inside the rudder.  (My surveyor wasn't specifically familiar with 
the C&C boats from this vintage).  I called South Shore Yachts last week to 
inquire about getting a new rudder built - but they suggested that it likely 
wasn't necessary and that they had never seen one fail due to corrosion of the 
stainless steel rudder post (which is my main concern) and that while most 
likely the welded carbon steel plate inside the rudder would have surface rust 
it wasn't likely to be a structural issue.

Following the recommendation from them and on some of the forums, I drilled 
several 1/4" holes in the rudder to investigate further.  The hole in the 
bottom drilled upwards just hit fiberglass for the length of the drill bit ~2.5 
inches as did a side hole about 3 inches up.  In the side about 5 inches up 
from the bottom, I did hit water that drained out and another hole about 12 
inches from the top in the middle of the side also hit water and saturated soft 
foam.  I did not hit a metal plate in either location.  The hole in the top 
went through a layer of fiber glass in the middle and then into foam in the 
other side.  Combined both holes drained about 3 cups of water from the rudder 
in the first hour or so and maybe a little more over night.  The water that 
drained out was not rust colored but rather tinted black.  So the surveyor was 
correct that the rudder is full of water and the foam inside is pretty soft.  
However, it also seems like the fiberglass is thick and pretty solid and there 
is no sign of cracking from it freezing during the winter.

Obviously, I would prefer to avoid the cost of rebuilding/replacing the rudder 
if it isn't necessary, but also don't want to take on too high a risk of having 
a catastrophic failure of the rudder while under way. Once the rudder dries out 
a bit, I could just fill the holes I drilled with epoxy and perhaps try to seal 
around where the rudder post comes out of the top which is where I assume the 
water got in the first place since it didn't drain out with the boat on the 
hard for over a year.

Any experience out there investigating potential corrosion of similar vintage 
and design C&C rudders or other recommendations?

Thanks in advance!

Nathan

~~~

Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
C&C 34
Malden, MA USA



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Barient 28 two speed self tailing winch bearings

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Try taking it’s mate to a bearing supply and see if they can match it.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 4, 2018, at 4:42 PM, Glenn Gambel via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I decided to clean my Barient 28 two speed self tailing winches today.  It was 
sunny and nice and I had been putting the project off for a while.  I did not 
think I would run into many problems, and that was a mistake.  I did, but won't 
go into those now.  Suffice to say, I did get the winch apart and was cleaning 
the parts and organizing them for reassembly, and discovered that one of the 
bearing had separated.  Though I recovered all of the parts and have them, I 
think reassembly may be very difficult, and even if I could reassemble the 
thing, I suspect that it may not hold together once the winch is operated, 
especially under load.

Does any one know where I might order new bearing or find new bearings for my 
Barient 28 two speed self tailing winch?  Any idea or help would be 
appreciated.  I would get the part number, but have to figure that out.

Sincerely,
Glenn Gambel
Wind N Spirits
C&C 36
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Removing old stickers

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Try “Goof-Off”

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 18, 2018, at 12:07 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

3M stripe off wheel 07498 with mandrel in a drill.

Dennis C.

On Wed, Jul 18, 2018 at 10:59 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I have Charleston Race Week stickers on my bow (OK, I have been busy with other 
things!) that I need to remove.

The boat has Awl-Grip on its hull which I would prefer to preserve.

Aside from plastic scrapers, soap and water, and elbow grease, does anyone have 
a magic remedy to remove this.

Its not a decal, just adhesive backed but they are about 18" x 18".

TIA,

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C&C XL/kcb

cenel...@aol.com

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Wisper has launched!

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Recommend you look at Garhauer for your bang.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 28, 2018, at 2:08 PM, Nathan Post via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> We finally have Wisper - our 1981 C&C 34 CB we purchased in May in the water! 
>  Excited to take her for a first sail tomorrow from Scituate up to Lynn MA 
> where we will be keeping her this season.  She was left on the hard by 
> previously owner for two years so lots of cleaning and lots of projects 
> completed, and of course still more to do.  A few highlights on where we are 
> at:
> 
> Thanks to everyone for the feedback previously on the rudder - after drilling 
> holes and draining I determined that it was definitely still solid and that 
> the best thing to do was leave it as is - sealed up the holes with Thixo 
> epoxy and then some barrier coat.  This fall when she is pulled I think I’ll 
> install a couple of plugs to make draining easier in the future since keeping 
> the water out doesn’t sound like a realistic possibility in the long run.
> 
> Refinished the cabin sole, replaced the removing ceiling panels with 3/16” 
> Starboard.  Had the sails cleaned and mended.  Replaced the glow plug 
> solenoid which had partially failed - the glow plugs were still getting 
> power, but the electric fuel pump which it also runs was not.  Replaced the 
> waste hoses and rebuilt the head.
> 
> I have also been following the bilge pump discussion and decided to install a 
> primary 3.5 gal/min Whale diagram pump with a large low profile screen inlet 
> and WaterWitch in addition to the rule 1500 with rule float switch and the 
> hand pump.
> 
> Had New England Propeller rebuild the folding 2 blade prop at their strong 
> recommendation to reduce slop and make the blade angles symmetric again - it 
> took Ron a longer than I had hoped to complete it and was the main delay in 
> getting launched the last few weeks, but it came out really nice so I think 
> it was well worth doing.  Put the shaft back in with a new PSS shaft seal and 
> new spit coupling (fit and faced by New England Prop as well) and everything 
> went together smoothly.
> 
> We seem to have a very slow leak at or around one of the through hulls (the 
> waste exit which we likely will not be using at all since we will be staying 
> close to shore for now and getting pump outs), even after tightening the 
> valve as much as I dared.  Probably only about a teaspoon or so an hour but 
> if I dry the area off around it, it will get wet again.  Any suggestions?  
> Thinking of just leaving it that way for this season until we pull her for 
> the fall.
> 
> Still to be done: look into the propane system and getting that working again 
> - probably need a new solenoid but I haven’t looked into that yet.  Connect 
> the new hot water heater.  Replace the faucets  in the head and galley, add a 
> shower gray water pump, rig a new vang (the boat didn’t come with one), and 
> perhaps have a dogger and bimini built for her.  Plus lots of little 
> maintenance, teak refinishing, etc.
> 
> Looking to get some new propane tanks (11 lb tall version) as the ones she 
> came with were very rusty.  Does anyone make a stainless steel version?  I 
> might go aluminum I suppose if I can find one the right size and shape.
> 
> It would be fun to make it to the north east coast rendezvous at some point, 
> but unfortunately we already have plans for that weekend this year and aren’t 
> set up for cruising that far quite yet.  Maybe next year!
> 
> Nathan Post
> S/V Whisper
> 1981 C&C 34
> Lynn, MA
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Wisper has launched!

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Read bang! Damn autocorrect!

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 28, 2018, at 2:44 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Recommend you look at Garhauer for your bang.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 28, 2018, at 2:08 PM, Nathan Post via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Hi All,
>> 
>> We finally have Wisper - our 1981 C&C 34 CB we purchased in May in the 
>> water!  Excited to take her for a first sail tomorrow from Scituate up to 
>> Lynn MA where we will be keeping her this season.  She was left on the hard 
>> by previously owner for two years so lots of cleaning and lots of projects 
>> completed, and of course still more to do.  A few highlights on where we are 
>> at:
>> 
>> Thanks to everyone for the feedback previously on the rudder - after 
>> drilling holes and draining I determined that it was definitely still solid 
>> and that the best thing to do was leave it as is - sealed up the holes with 
>> Thixo epoxy and then some barrier coat.  This fall when she is pulled I 
>> think I’ll install a couple of plugs to make draining easier in the future 
>> since keeping the water out doesn’t sound like a realistic possibility in 
>> the long run.
>> 
>> Refinished the cabin sole, replaced the removing ceiling panels with 3/16” 
>> Starboard.  Had the sails cleaned and mended.  Replaced the glow plug 
>> solenoid which had partially failed - the glow plugs were still getting 
>> power, but the electric fuel pump which it also runs was not.  Replaced the 
>> waste hoses and rebuilt the head.
>> 
>> I have also been following the bilge pump discussion and decided to install 
>> a primary 3.5 gal/min Whale diagram pump with a large low profile screen 
>> inlet and WaterWitch in addition to the rule 1500 with rule float switch and 
>> the hand pump.
>> 
>> Had New England Propeller rebuild the folding 2 blade prop at their strong 
>> recommendation to reduce slop and make the blade angles symmetric again - it 
>> took Ron a longer than I had hoped to complete it and was the main delay in 
>> getting launched the last few weeks, but it came out really nice so I think 
>> it was well worth doing.  Put the shaft back in with a new PSS shaft seal 
>> and new spit coupling (fit and faced by New England Prop as well) and 
>> everything went together smoothly.
>> 
>> We seem to have a very slow leak at or around one of the through hulls (the 
>> waste exit which we likely will not be using at all since we will be staying 
>> close to shore for now and getting pump outs), even after tightening the 
>> valve as much as I dared.  Probably only about a teaspoon or so an hour but 
>> if I dry the area off around it, it will get wet again.  Any suggestions?  
>> Thinking of just leaving it that way for this season until we pull her for 
>> the fall.
>> 
>> Still to be done: look into the propane system and getting that working 
>> again - probably need a new solenoid but I haven’t looked into that yet.  
>> Connect the new hot water heater.  Replace the faucets  in the head and 
>> galley, add a shower gray water pump, rig a new vang (the boat didn’t come 
>> with one), and perhaps have a dogger and bimini built for her.  Plus lots of 
>> little maintenance, teak refinishing, etc.
>> 
>> Looking to get some new propane tanks (11 lb tall version) as the ones she 
>> came with were very rusty.  Does anyone make a stainless steel version?  I 
>> might go aluminum I suppose if I can find one the right size and shape.
>> 
>> It would be fun to make it to the north east coast rendezvous at some point, 
>> but unfortunately we already have plans for that weekend this year and 
>> aren’t set up for cruising that far quite yet.  Maybe next year!
>> 
>> Nathan Post
>> S/V Whisper
>> 1981 C&C 34
>> Lynn, MA
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Wisper has launched!

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Depends on boat size. Probably No 2, for a 35’ Boat 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 29, 2018, at 7:17 AM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Congratulations Nathan.  We have owned our 34 for 20 years and love it.  It 
> sails like a dream.  Regarding the rudder, we rebuilt ours and found the foam 
> was very degraded.  New foam, new skin and all is well.  Of note is the 
> design is solid glass top, bottom, leading and trailing edge.  The glass is 
> about 3 inches thick and more at the top.  You can easily ascertain by 
> tapping the rudder.  The bottom has a small section about half way fore/aft 
> where there is no solid glass just the skin to facilitate a drain hole.
> 
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C&C 34
> Noank, CT
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Nathan 
> Post via CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2018 2:08 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Nathan Post
> Subject: Stus-List Wisper has launched!
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> We finally have Wisper - our 1981 C&C 34 CB we purchased in May in the water! 
>  Excited to take her for a first sail tomorrow from Scituate up to Lynn MA 
> where we will be keeping her this season.  She was left on the hard by 
> previously owner for two years so lots of cleaning and lots of projects 
> completed, and of course still more to do.  A few highlights on where we are 
> at:
> 
> Thanks to everyone for the feedback previously on the rudder - after drilling 
> holes and draining I determined that it was definitely still solid and that 
> the best thing to do was leave it as is - sealed up the holes with Thixo 
> epoxy and then some barrier coat.  This fall when she is pulled I think I’ll 
> install a couple of plugs to make draining easier in the future since keeping 
> the water out doesn’t sound like a realistic possibility in the long run.
> 
> Refinished the cabin sole, replaced the removing ceiling panels with 3/16” 
> Starboard.  Had the sails cleaned and mended.  Replaced the glow plug 
> solenoid which had partially failed - the glow plugs were still getting 
> power, but the electric fuel pump which it also runs was not.  Replaced the 
> waste hoses and rebuilt the head.
> 
> I have also been following the bilge pump discussion and decided to install a 
> primary 3.5 gal/min Whale diagram pump with a large low profile screen inlet 
> and WaterWitch in addition to the rule 1500 with rule float switch and the 
> hand pump.
> 
> Had New England Propeller rebuild the folding 2 blade prop at their strong 
> recommendation to reduce slop and make the blade angles symmetric again - it 
> took Ron a longer than I had hoped to complete it and was the main delay in 
> getting launched the last few weeks, but it came out really nice so I think 
> it was well worth doing.  Put the shaft back in with a new PSS shaft seal and 
> new spit coupling (fit and faced by New England Prop as well) and everything 
> went together smoothly.
> 
> We seem to have a very slow leak at or around one of the through hulls (the 
> waste exit which we likely will not be using at all since we will be staying 
> close to shore for now and getting pump outs), even after tightening the 
> valve as much as I dared.  Probably only about a teaspoon or so an hour but 
> if I dry the area off around it, it will get wet again.  Any suggestions?  
> Thinking of just leaving it that way for this season until we pull her for 
> the fall.
> 
> Still to be done: look into the propane system and getting that working again 
> - probably need a new solenoid but I haven’t looked into that yet.  Connect 
> the new hot water heater.  Replace the faucets  in the head and galley, add a 
> shower gray water pump, rig a new vang (the boat didn’t come with one), and 
> perhaps have a dogger and bimini built for her.  Plus lots of little 
> maintenance, teak refinishing, etc.
> 
> Looking to get some new propane tanks (11 lb tall version) as the ones she 
> came with were very rusty.  Does anyone make a stainless steel version?  I 
> might go aluminum I suppose if I can find one the right size and shape.
> 
> It would be fun to make it to the north east coast rendezvous at some point, 
> but unfortunately we already have plans for that weekend this year and aren’t 
> set up for cruising that far quite yet.  Maybe next year!
> 
> Nathan Post
> S/V Whisper
> 1981 C&C 34
> Lynn, MA
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
_

Re: Stus-List How narrow a berth is too narrow

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

A foot either side is the norm in our harbour.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 7, 2018, at 2:04 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have an opportunity for a new slip an a highly desirable location.  From 
> the edge of the finger to the neighboring boat is 12' and my beam is 11' not 
> counting fender width.  Is less than 1' between too narrow or do you think I 
> can make it work?
> 
> Thanks,
>   Jeremy 
>   78 34-1 #41
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List anyone see this mine?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Perfect. What time works? Remember it’s Labour Day.

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 29, 2018, at 12:09 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

https://www.seattletimes.com/seattle-news/unexploded-device-floating-in-puget-sound-off-bainbridge-island/

Yikes!
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray