Re: Stus-List PO,ed

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

Almost 20 years into internet lists and people still scream, GET ME OFF THIS 
LIST! instead of selecting the unsubscribe option. What does that say about a 
person's list skills? And... what did someone on this list do to piss him 
off so much?  :-)
Ed

> On May 13, 2014, at 4:24 PM, william drose via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Take me off this damn list NOW!
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Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

After reading a few posts of rudder failure on C&C 24s, I thought I should
look into mine.
It seems solid, but how do I know without drilling into it? There is a crack
in the fiberglass at the top of the rudder,
but I can¹t tell how far in it goes unless I dig into it. Any thoughts on
exploratory surgery? I know there are some doctors on this list.  :-)
Thanks,
Ed
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Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

No, It's hanging on the stern, outside, for a Vermont winter, 5 winters in a 
row since I've bought the boat. A moisture meter implies gouging a hole through 
the fiberglass. Is that what you're suggesting?
Ed

> On Jun 4, 2014, at 7:21 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Do you dry it out over the winter? If no, try a moisture meter to check. My 
> 27 has drain plugs  I installed to dry out over the Ontario winter..
> From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List
> Sent: ‎2014-‎06-‎04 5:00 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question
> 
> After reading a few posts of rudder failure on C&C 24s, I thought I should 
> look into mine.
> It seems solid, but how do I know without drilling into it? There is a crack 
> in the fiberglass at the top of the rudder,
> but I can’t tell how far in it goes unless I dig into it. Any thoughts on 
> exploratory surgery? I know there are some doctors on this list.  :-)
> Thanks,
> Ed
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Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

Thanks for the advice guys. I came across a C&C 24 rudder failure problem in
the Wooden Boat forums (see below). According to the guy whose rudder
snapped, it¹s 2 mahogany planks wrapped in fiberglass mat. That makes the
drilling a hole idea seem a little unnecessary, unless I do it to see if the
mahogany is rotting, not to expect water to pour out. Maybe later C&Cs used
a foam core. Thanks for the tip on the pinless moisture meters, I have an
old lignomat pin type.
Ed

³In heavy winds last Sunday (7/22) my rudder snapped at the water line -
the broken off part disappeared as my C&C 24 was blown in circles until I
got the sails down.   A replacement was quoted at $2900.  The construction
was fiberglass mats over two sandwiched mahogany planks.  I am looking for
advice on rebuilding it.  Would marine grade plywood  be stronger?  I
thought I would cut the general shape out of mahogany or plywood sandwiched
together and then over lay it with fiberglass mats.  Any suggestions?²



From: Ken Heaton 
Reply-To: 
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2014 09:21:17 -0300
To: Ed Dooley , cnc-list 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

No gouging.  You use a Pinless Moisture Meter like this:

http://answers.canadiantire.ca/answers/9045/product/0574572P/mastercraft-mas
tercraft-pinless-moisture-detector-questions-answers/questions.htm

Or these: http://www.electrophysics.on.ca/e_index.htm

You don't use the meter for an absolute value, instead you use the meter to
compare an area you know is dry to one that is questionable.

I don't know anything about the construction of the rudder on the 24 but
I'll assume it is a fibreglass shell with a foam core and a structural web
inside welded to the rudder shaft.

Me, I'd drill a 1/8"hole straight up through the bottom edge of the rudder,
using a long bit so you can get several inches up into the foam core and see
if water comes out.  If there is water and it comes out clear you shouldn't
have too much to worry about except what damage may already have been done
through freezing.  If it comes out rusty and black I'd be concerned about
the condition of the internal structure.  Plug the hole whit epoxy before
you launch the boat.  Re drill the hole in the fall when you haul so the
water can't freeze in there.

Ken H.


On 5 June 2014 02:52, Ed Dooley via CnC-List  wrote:
> No, It's hanging on the stern, outside, for a Vermont winter, 5 winters in a
> row since I've bought the boat. A moisture meter implies gouging a hole
> through the fiberglass. Is that what you're suggesting?
> Ed
> 
> On Jun 4, 2014, at 7:21 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List 
> wrote:
> 
>> Do you dry it out over the winter? If no, try a moisture meter to check. My
>> 27 has drain plugs  I installed to dry out over the Ontario winter..
>> 
>> From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Sent: 2014-06-04 5:00 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question
>> 
>> After reading a few posts of rudder failure on C&C 24s, I thought I should
>> look into mine.
>> It seems solid, but how do I know without drilling into it? There is a crack
>> in the fiberglass at the top of the rudder,
>> but I can¹t tell how far in it goes unless I dig into it. Any thoughts on
>> exploratory surgery? I know there are some doctors on this list.  :-)
>> Thanks,
>> Ed 
>> 
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>> 
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>> at:
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>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 

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Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

I¹ll try it this weekend. How far did you drill in? The boat¹s still on the
hard, about to finally get its new name, Banshee, painted on.
I bought it with the name Jack Rabbit, which also included a cartoony vinyl
decal of a bunny, very silly.
Ed




From: Marek Dziedzic 
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2014 13:44:23 -0400
To: Ed Dooley , 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

there was water in mine, when I bought it. I drained it through a little
hole at the bottom. Btw. I never glassed the hole; instead I used some gunk
(silicon, butyl etc.; whatever was around) to plug it. You can probably do
it with some chewing gum.
 
The good news is that you can easily lift the rudder of its hinges and do
the inspection when the boat is in the water.
 
Marek
 
From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2014 12:09 PM
To: cnc-list <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question
 
Thanks for the advice guys. I came across a C&C 24 rudder failure problem in
the Wooden Boat forums (see below). According to the guy whose rudder
snapped, it¹s 2 mahogany planks wrapped in fiberglass mat. That makes the
drilling a hole idea seem a little unnecessary, unless I do it to see if the
mahogany is rotting, not to expect water to pour out. Maybe later C&Cs used
a foam core. Thanks for the tip on the pinless moisture meters, I have an
old lignomat pin type.
Ed

³In heavy winds last Sunday (7/22) my rudder snapped at the water line -
the broken off part disappeared as my C&C 24 was blown in circles until I
got the sails down.   A replacement was quoted at $2900.  The construction
was fiberglass mats over two sandwiched mahogany planks.  I am looking for
advice on rebuilding it.  Would marine grade plywood  be stronger?  I
thought I would cut the general shape out of mahogany or plywood sandwiched
together and then over lay it with fiberglass mats.  Any suggestions?²



From: Ken Heaton 
Reply-To: 
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2014 09:21:17 -0300
To: Ed Dooley , cnc-list 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

No gouging.  You use a Pinless Moisture Meter like this:

http://answers.canadiantire.ca/answers/9045/product/0574572P/mastercraft-mas
tercraft-pinless-moisture-detector-questions-answers/questions.htm

Or these: http://www.electrophysics.on.ca/e_index.htm

You don't use the meter for an absolute value, instead you use the meter to
compare an area you know is dry to one that is questionable.

I don't know anything about the construction of the rudder on the 24 but
I'll assume it is a fibreglass shell with a foam core and a structural web
inside welded to the rudder shaft.

Me, I'd drill a 1/8"hole straight up through the bottom edge of the rudder,
using a long bit so you can get several inches up into the foam core and see
if water comes out.  If there is water and it comes out clear you shouldn't
have too much to worry about except what damage may already have been done
through freezing.  If it comes out rusty and black I'd be concerned about
the condition of the internal structure.  Plug the hole whit epoxy before
you launch the boat.  Re drill the hole in the fall when you haul so the
water can't freeze in there.

Ken H.


On 5 June 2014 02:52, Ed Dooley via CnC-List  wrote:
> No, It's hanging on the stern, outside, for a Vermont  winter, 5 winters in a
> row since I've bought the boat. A moisture meter  implies gouging a hole
> through the fiberglass. Is that what you're  suggesting?
> Ed
> 
> On Jun 4, 2014, at 7:21  PM, John Irvin via CnC-List 
> wrote:
> 
>  
>> Do you dry it out over the winter?  If no, try a moisture meter to check. My
>> 27 has drain plugs  I  installed to dry out over the Ontario winter..
>>  
>> 
>>  From: Ed  Dooley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Sent: 2014-06-04 5:00 PM
>> To:  cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder  question
>> 
>> After reading a few posts  of rudder failure on C&C 24s, I thought I should
>> look into mine.
>> It  seems solid, but how do I know without drilling into it? There is a
>> crack in the fiberglass at the top of the rudder,
>> but I can¹t tell how  far in it goes unless I dig into it. Any thoughts on
>> exploratory surgery? I  know there are some doctors on this list.   :-)
>> Thanks,
>> Ed  
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

Thanks Rick and Marek,
I¹ll know more tomorrow when I play with it.
Ed


From: Rick Taillieu 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: 
Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2014 16:00:07 -0300
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question
Ed,
 
If the 24¹s rudder is made like the 25¹s, it will be 2 fibreglass halves
with plywood bonded in from the top to about 2² below the bottom gudgeon.
>From there on to the bottom it¹s hollow and is meant to fill up with water.
There should be two holes that go into the hollow part, one where the front
edge turns 90 deg fwd to form the counterbalance and one in the middle of
the bottom.
It is very important not to let these holes plug up, they are there to drain
the hollow cavity when you haul out the boat.
Is the ³crack² at the top of your rudder along the centreline where the two
halves join together?
If so I wouldn¹t worry too much about it, it probably just the fairing
filler chipping out.
 
Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



From: Marek Dziedzic 
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 08:47:07 -0400
To: Ed Dooley , 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

I don¹t remember. But I did not use any special (i.e. especially long drill
bits). And I did not drill more than probably 1/8 diameter. I am guessing
here, but I would imagine an inch (?).
 
Marek
 
From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2014 1:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question
 
I¹ll try it this weekend. How far did you drill in? The boat¹s still on the
hard, about to finally get its new name, Banshee, painted on.
I bought it with the name Jack Rabbit, which also included a cartoony vinyl
decal of a bunny, very silly.
Ed




From: Marek Dziedzic 
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2014 13:44:23 -0400
To: Ed Dooley , 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

there was water in mine, when I bought it. I drained it through a little
hole at the bottom. Btw. I never glassed the hole; instead I used some gunk
(silicon, butyl etc.; whatever was around) to plug it. You can probably do
it with some chewing gum.
 
The good news is that you can easily lift the rudder of its hinges and do
the inspection when the boat is in the water.
 
Marek

From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2014 12:09 PM
To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question
 
Thanks for the advice guys. I came across a C&C 24 rudder failure problem in
the Wooden Boat forums (see below). According to the guy whose rudder
snapped, it¹s 2 mahogany planks wrapped in fiberglass mat. That makes the
drilling a hole idea seem a little unnecessary, unless I do it to see if the
mahogany is rotting, not to expect water to pour out. Maybe later C&Cs used
a foam core. Thanks for the tip on the pinless moisture meters, I have an
old lignomat pin type.
Ed

³In heavy winds last Sunday (7/22) my rudder snapped at the water line -
the broken off part disappeared as my C&C 24 was blown in circles until I
got the sails down.   A replacement was quoted at $2900.  The construction
was fiberglass mats over two sandwiched mahogany planks.  I am looking for
advice on rebuilding it.  Would marine grade plywood  be stronger?  I
thought I would cut the general shape out of mahogany or plywood sandwiched
together and then over lay it with fiberglass mats.  Any suggestions?²



From: Ken Heaton 
Reply-To: 
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2014 09:21:17 -0300
To: Ed Dooley , cnc-list 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

No gouging.  You use a Pinless Moisture Meter like this:

http://answers.canadiantire.ca/answers/9045/product/0574572P/mastercraft-mas
tercraft-pinless-moisture-detector-questions-answers/questions.htm

Or these: http://www.electrophysics.on.ca/e_index.htm

You don't use the meter for an absolute value, instead you use the meter to
compare an area you know is dry to one that is questionable.

I don't know anything about the construction of the rudder on the 24 but
I'll assume it is a fibreglass shell with a foam core and a structural web
inside welded to the rudder shaft.

Me, I'd drill a 1/8"hole straight up through the bottom edge of the rudder,
using a long bit so you can get several inches up into the foam core and see
if water comes out.  If there is water and it comes out clear you shouldn't
have too much to worry about except what damage may already have been done
through freezing.  If it comes out rusty and black I'd be concerned about
the condition of the internal structure.  Plug the hole whit epoxy before
you launch the boat.  Re drill the hole in the fall when you haul so the
water can't freeze in there.

Ken H.


On 5 June 2014 02:52, Ed Dooley via CnC-List  wrote:
> No, It's hanging on the stern, outside, for a  Vermont  winter, 5 winters in a
> row since I've bought the boat. A  moisture

Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder update

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

It turns out there is a hole at the bottom of the rudder, near the leading
edge. It was somewhat plugged with
paint, but I reamed it out a bit. No moisture test yet (not going to spend
money on a pinless meter).
Ed
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Re: Stus-List getting seasick

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

I don¹t have much opportunity to get seasick here on Lake Champlain, but on
the cold, stormy North Pacific
in Alaska, where I lived for years (my brother still has a fishing boat on
Prince William Sound) I was always seasick.
Sailing on the Tustumena from Homer to Kodiak, often meant 9 hours of 30
foot seas and 40-50 know wind.
Dramamine didn¹t work for me, although I¹m intrigued by the 3 day previous
idea, but since then I found ginger. Not the
tiny amount in ginger ale or ginger snaps, but the chewable wafers that melt
in your mouth that contain lots of real ginger.
If you can¹t find those, then crystallized ginger can be found in health
food stores and co-ops and also works well. My partner Kathy
gets seasick watching boats from shore, and the ginger really works for her.
Ed




From: D Harben 
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 13:01:17 -0400
To: Andrew Burton , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"

Subject: Re: Stus-List getting seasick

 any pointers to or lists of possible MEDS?



On Jun 23, 2014, at 12:57 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List
 wrote:

> Just noticed Joel saying he'd had to turn around because a crewmember was so
> sick on the way home from Bermuda. (Welcome home, Joel!)
> 
> This is a public service message. As one who suffered for three days on his
> first offshore passage, I know how bad being seasick can be. Since that time
> I've racked up more miles under sail than most. I've also introduced a lot of
> crewmembers and clients to offshore sailing-- where getting seasick is a
> constant hazard. I have found out what works and what doesn't. I will share it
> with you for the low, low one-time price of...oh wait, that would mean
> Stunevermind.
> 
> During my offshore sailing program where I took sailors to sea for their first
> offshore experiences, I once had 54 newbies leaving Newport on 10 different
> boats. our departure was delayed for three days. Each day, we thought we would
> leave the next day, so everyone took their seasick medication. By the time we
> finally got out on the water, each crewmember had three days worth of their
> preferred medication in their system. As a result, only one person was sick in
> the fairly rough conditions we encountered the first couple of days, and the
> guy who was sick was a "mighty man of the sea" who never got seasick and
> didn't take any meds.
> 
> It did not matter what kind of meds the sailors were using, as long as it was
> well into their system.
> 
> Normally, I would have expected at least 65-75% attrition in those conditions.
> 
> The above even works for my bride, who gets sick if she looks at a puddle on a
> windy day.
> 
> 
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
> 
> -- 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> phone  +401 965 5260 

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Re: Stus-List getting seasick

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

Yes, pickled ginger works just as well as candied/crystallized.
Ed

> On Jun 24, 2014, at 10:21 AM, Wally Bryant  wrote:
> 
> PS.  I've heard about Ginger but never tried it.  Has anyone ever tried 
> Pickled Ginger, like for Sushi?  I always keep that on board, but in those 
> rare moments of seasick don't want to experiment. (Especially when single 
> handing.)
> 
> Wal
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Happy 4th to all US friends and C&C ers

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

Ditto! And to all the Canadian boaters on the lake here in Vermont celebrating 
along with us!
Ed

> On Jul 4, 2014, at 10:56 AM, Don Newman  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Don Newman
> 
> 
> 

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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

Congratulations Stu!
Ed

> On Aug 2, 2014, at 9:49 AM, "Stu"  wrote:
> 
> Late last year, I was diagnosed as having severe cataracts in both eyes and 
> they were 'ripe' for surgery.
> 
> After months' of waiting, I have had the cataracts removed from both eyes and 
> new lens inserted.  Approximately 30 minutes per surgery and a wait of 
> several weeks between each.
> 
> Multiple visits to the doctor for follow-ups and gallons of drops in each eye 
> -- I think my brain is getting water logged.
> 
> But the good thing about it all -- after close to 60 years of wearing 
> glasses, I now have better than 20/25 vision in both eyes.  Still need 
> glasses for reading and won't get them prescribed for another 4-6 weeks.  At 
> the same time, I should have the prescribed glasses restriction removed from 
> my driver's license.
> 
> I can't believe how beautiful everything looks and the amount of detail that 
> I have missed.
> 
> If you have cataracts, get them looked after as soon as possible -- you will 
> be surprised at how beautiful your C&C really looks.
>  
> Stu
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Re: Stus-List Nice Sail Today

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

I first read that as 6-8 knots and 6 foot waves.  I thought, "How different 
that is on Lake Champlain"
Ed

> On Aug 3, 2014, at 7:27 PM, schiller  wrote:
> 
> Went out to find the new Weather Buoy just dropped 2 miles west of South 
> Haven, Michigan.  Nice day on the lake.  We sailed a nice close reach to the 
> Buoy (after going around the Perch fishing fleet) and then went on a dead run 
> north for a while.  Tacked into a broad reach into 6-8 knots (.6 foot waves), 
>  Tacked back to South Haven for a really nice day out.  65 degree water and 
> 76 degree air set up a bit of haze to make identifying the lighthouse a bit 
> of a challenge until about 2 miles out.  The new buoy can be found at:
> http://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/station_page.php?station=45168
> 
> They have a web cam at:
> http://www.limnotechdata.com/stations/SouthHaven/
> 
> Sailing on the inland seas are unique.
> 
> Neil Schiller
> 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
> (C&C 35, Mark I)
> "Corsair"
> Document #538243
> From the beautiful harbor of South Haven, Michigan
> 
> BTW Corsair's document has been reinstated.  No more Registration Numbers 
> (now that Michigan did away with hang boards).
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Re: Stus-List Nice Sail Today

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

With a ruler?
Ed



From: Indigo 
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2014 08:00:11 -0400
To: Ed Dooley , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"

Subject: Re: Stus-List Nice Sail Today

I read 6ft too. How does one measure waves in 10ths of a foot?

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

On Aug 3, 2014, at 21:31, Ed Dooley via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I first read that as 6-8 knots and 6 foot waves.  I thought, "How different
> that is on Lake Champlain"
> Ed
> 
> On Aug 3, 2014, at 7:27 PM, schiller  wrote:
> 
>>  Went out to find the new Weather Buoy just dropped 2 miles west of South
>> Haven, Michigan.  Nice day on the lake.  We sailed a nice close reach to the
>> Buoy (after going around the Perch fishing fleet) and then went on a dead run
>> north for a while.  Tacked into a broad reach into 6-8 knots (.6 foot waves),
>> Tacked back to South Haven for a really nice day out.  65 degree water and 76
>> degree air set up a bit of haze to make identifying the lighthouse a bit of a
>> challenge until about 2 miles out.  The new buoy can be found at:
>>  http://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/station_page.php?station=45168
>>  
>>  They have a web cam at:
>>  http://www.limnotechdata.com/stations/SouthHaven/
>>  
>>  Sailing on the inland seas are unique.
>>  
>>  Neil Schiller
>>  1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
>>  (C&C 35, Mark I)
>>  "Corsair"
>>  Document #538243
>>  From the beautiful harbor of South Haven, Michigan
>>  
>>  BTW Corsair's document has been reinstated.  No more Registration Numbers
>> (now that Michigan did away with hang boards).
>>   
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page
>> at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 

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Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

Yes, people can customize how they receive emails in ways to make them more 
convenient.
Ed

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 13, 2015, at 9:16 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:

> I guess it has never bothered me cause my gmail and Gmail client auto hide 
> the quoted text AND they auto group emails with the same subject.  It's not 
> always necessary but sometimes it is nice to be able to see what exact 
> referance someone was making simply by looking at the quoted text. 
> 
> I like the fact that I don't have to go to a forum app or website to see the 
> message stream or to participate.  
> I like being able to quickly and easily take the conversion of list and then 
> back again without leaving the email client.  
> I like how lightweight and ubiquitous email is.  No fancy graphics to take up 
> bandwidth.  
> Maybe people think it's creepy but I like that we all have each others email 
> and can easily contact one another with something off list via email if 
> needed.  Edd with Star Trek stuff, Fred with electronics questions, Joel for 
> offshore races and Jake for a fix from a Midnight Mistress.
> 
> Warm regards to all,
> Josh Muckley
> 
> PS:
> Just so you all know to what I'm refering I've quoted the text from the 
> previous email.
> 
> On Mar 13, 2015 8:56 PM, "Robert Boyer via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
>> Stu's original listing was copied and resent 11 times in 12 messages!  Does 
>> everyone really like this?  It is completely unnecessary and would probably 
>> be eliminated in a forum format.  That's really the primary change--the 
>> people would be the same.
>> 
>> Bob Boyer
>> S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
>> 1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
>> email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
>> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>> 
>> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
>> messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
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Stus-List Fwd: Email List or Forum

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

Oops! 
Ed

Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Ed Dooley 
> Date: March 13, 2015, 9:54:27 PM EDT
> To: Burt Stratton 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum
> 
> Email list works fine for me. I administer 2 email lists, both free, one on 
> Wiggio and one on Groupspaces. My lists are very simple, so I'm not familiar 
> with their available options, such as archive search.
> Ed
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Mar 13, 2015, at 7:05 PM, "Burt Stratton"  wrote:
> 
>> Stu, the list is far better than any forum I have “joined” but if the forum 
>> is easier for you I would support it
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu via 
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: Friday, March 13, 2015 5:32 PM
>> To: C&C Email List
>> Subject: Stus-List Email List or Forum
>>  
>> Recently, some of our subscribers have indicated that they would like to 
>> have a “Forum” similar to “cruisersforum” or “sailnet” instead of an email 
>> list (like this one).
>>  
>> PROS:
>> 1. Eliminate the costs related to the email list
>> 2. Follow a thread easier without having to read multiple emails.
>> 3. Easier to find past, archived messages and threads.
>> 4. Possible addition of public and private photo albums.
>> 5. Easily moderated by more than one person.  Threads can be deleted and 
>> undesirable subscribers blocked.
>> 6. No more 20-30 emails a day.  Visit the site at your convenience and view 
>> the latest topics since your last visit.
>>  
>> CONS:
>> 1. Forum software runs from free to around $250 depending on additional 
>> enhancements.
>> 2. Might (???) require additional disk space and bandwidth on hosting site. 
>> ()
>> 3. Installation – I’ve done it before and it does take some time.  And a bit 
>> more time involved to get it tweeked to perfection.
>>  
>> Bottom line – would you rather have a FORUM or continue using this list?  It 
>> does not matter to me.
>>  
>> Stu
>>  
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Re: Stus-List Forum vs Email list = no contest - FORUM!

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

I think, well, at least in my case, it's a case of forgetting to reply
without all the previous messages. My (new) New Years Resolution is to be
better.
Here are a few ways to make sure you don't clutter up your emails to the
list. If you don't see your email client here, just Google it!:
Ed

Google mail:
http://www.pcworld.com/article/2017332/how-to-tame-messy-gmail-replies.html
http://blog.jgc.org/2012/11/the-greatest-google-mail-feature-you.html
https://productforums.google.com/forum/#!topic/gmail/PwFVVZtOOvE

Microsoft Office:
https://support.office.com/en-ca/article/Change-how-the-original-message-ap
pears-in-replies-and-forwards-1207f4ea-f7cf-4cdf-9298-5982fa2e5e2f

Yahoo mail:
http://science.opposingviews.com/can-original-message-left-off-reply-messag
es-yahoo-mail-4210.html

Apple Mail (Mavericks):
https://support.apple.com/kb/PH14905?locale=en_US

Yosemite:
https://support.apple.com/kb/PH19148?locale=en_US

Windows Live Mail:
http://malektips.com/windows-live-mail-do-not-include-message-in-reply.html

On 3/14/15 10:52 AM, "Joe at Zialater"  wrote:

>Cast my vote for a FORUM - An email list is akin to using smoke signals
>when
>there is a telephone available  - it is needlessly cumbersome and
>difficult
>to read with all of the repetitive text.
>
>A forum would allow us to add pics and videos and organization and we
>would
>all get so much more helpful info.  A forum would offer us all of the
>benefits of the list with so much more.The initial hassle of
>learning a new forum will be wholly outweighed by a more useable,
>efficient
>and informative experience.
>
> Maybe even a facebook page in our future?
>
>Cheers,
>
>Joe Boyle
>Zia 30MK1
>Annapolis
>
>
>



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Re: Stus-List Forum vs Email list = no contest - FORUM!

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

I'm on Facebook, reluctantly, for my family, but not for anything else,ŠŠŠ
it's the Devil.
Ed

From:  Jim Watts 
Date:  Sat, 14 Mar 2015 10:30:24 -0700
To:  Joe at Zialater , 1 CnC List 
Subject:  Re: Stus-List Forum vs Email list = no contest - FORUM!

Facebook? Count me out.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 14 March 2015 at 07:52, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List
 wrote:
> Cast my vote for a FORUM - An email list is akin to using smoke signals when
> there is a telephone available  - it is needlessly cumbersome and difficult
> to read with all of the repetitive text.
> 
> A forum would allow us to add pics and videos and organization and we would
> all get so much more helpful info.  A forum would offer us all of the
> benefits of the list with so much more.The initial hassle of
> learning a new forum will be wholly outweighed by a more useable, efficient
> and informative experience.
> 
>  Maybe even a facebook page in our future?
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Joe Boyle
> Zia 30MK1
> Annapolis
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 



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Re: Stus-List Ahoy.

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

Welcome aboard Andrew. I too have a C&C24, only 1250 miles NNE of you on
Lake Champlain in Vermont.
Mine's a 1983, how about yours?
Ed

On 4/20/15 2:50 PM, "Andrew Frame"  wrote:

>
>Thought I'd take a moment and stick my head out of the hatch and say
>hello to the group. I have a C&C-24 I use for short river sails near my
>home in southwest Florida. My first boat, and one I enjoy very much when
>I can get out to it.
>
>A!
>
>



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Re: Stus-List Boat Names

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

It took us 4 years to rename our boat. We bought it in Lake George and hauled 
it to her new home on Lake Champlain and
the 1st thing I did was peel off the vinyl lettering of her old name, Jack 
Rabbit. The former owner also applied a giant,
two actually, one on each side of the hull, near the stern, vinyl cartoon 
character of a Jack rabbit. Pretty ugly. I'm an Irish citizen,
so I wanted something Irish, but then a friend said she'd hate to see me call 
the Coast Guard in an emergency and try to get them to understand
the name of the boat in Irish. For example, if I named the boat "Seaworthy" in 
Irish, the call would go like this; "May Day, May Day,
this is Muiracmhainneach!"  "Say again, sir? Could you spell that?" As I'm 
sinking I'm teaching Irish to the Coast Guard.
My partner never sailed before meeting me, and as we heeled over she'd hit the 
deck and scream, so keeping true to my Irish roots I thought I'd name
the boat "Screaming Banshee" (in English), an Irish fairy maiden, who, 
unfortunately, foreshadows doom. "Come on aboard, oh, don't worry, this sail
isn't doomed, really, it's just a name." But as cruisers, I didn't want to be 
plodding along and have another cruiser fly past us with us sporting 
"Screaming" in our name.
So, long story short, we named her Banshee (in a Celtic script, of course!).
Ed
> 
> From: "bobmor99 ." 
> Date: September 21, 2015 8:55:55 PM EDT
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List boat names
> 
> 
> Years ago, I had to come up with a name for my then-new-to-me 33-1 prior to 
> transiting a drawbridge for the first time.
> I didn't want to ID myself as "the nameless white sailboat returning to sea".
> Bridge tender: "How do you spell that?".
> 
> It's just six pieces of tape, which have long since fallen off. It's 
> somewhere on my list...
> Was briefly called "Hugs and Kisses", after additional OXs were 
> surreptitiously added by a beercan race competitor.
> 
> Also, 0x is a prefix denoting a hexadecimal value (if you're into computer 
> stuff). 
> 
> Bridge tender: "Is that 'oh X' or 'zero X'?".
> 
> --Oxman
> C&C 33-1
> Jax, FL
> 
>  
> On Wed, Sep 16, 2015 at 9:53 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> OK coming up with a new name for our new boat is proving very difficult.
> 
> I thought I would throw it out to you guys for some ideas!
> 
> Maybe you came across something sometime and thought wow what a great name 
> for a boat!
> 
> I can't believe this is so difficult... Lol
> 
> Danny
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: Martin DeYoung 
> Date: September 21, 2015 9:26:57 PM EDT
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List boat names
> 
> 
> I heard of a boat named “Ruthless” as the owner’s wife, Ruth, would not set 
> foot on the boat.
>  
> A friend of mine owned a Yamaha 36 named “Made in Japan”.
>  
> Another friend owned a J-24 named “Jail Bait”.  My wife and I towed that J-24 
> across the country to participate in the 1989 J-24 Worlds in Kingston.  A lot 
> of truck drivers took a close look at my wife as they passed, especially in 
> So Dakota.
>  
> I took part in a 1985 Transpac charter of a Barnett 52 named “Climax”.  
> “Climax” was owned by two lady part doctors.
>  
> I sailed several Sauza Cups (Lahaina YC, Maui) on a Choate 40 named “Phoenix” 
> as the owner’s previous boat burned to the waterline after his spouse 
> over-primed the alcohol stove and the fire got out of control.
>  
> I named the Ericson 30+ I owned in the 80’s “Helen Highwater”.  My 
> father-in-law saw that on a painting of a WW2 bomber with a provocatively 
> dressed Helen added for emphasis.
>  
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso
> 1971 C&C 43
> Seattle
> 
> 
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bobmor99 . 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, September 21, 2015 5:56 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: bobmor99 .
> Subject: Re: Stus-List boat names
>  
> Years ago, I had to come up with a name for my then-new-to-me 33-1 prior to 
> transiting a drawbridge for the first time.
> I didn't want to ID myself as "the nameless white sailboat returning to sea".
> Bridge tender: "How do you spell that?".
>  
> It's just six pieces of tape, which have long since fallen off. It's 
> somewhere on my list...
> Was briefly called "Hugs and Kisses", after additional OXs were 
> surreptitiously added by a beercan race competitor.
> 
> Also, 0x is a prefix denoting a hexadecimal value (if you're into computer 
> stuff).
> 
> Bridge tender: "Is that 'oh X' or 'zero X'?".
>  
> --Oxman
> C&C 33-1
> Jax, FL

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Re: Stus-List Boat names

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

You would have had to be very good buddies for that name.
Ed



> From: Joel Aronson 
> Date: September 22, 2015 10:20:08 AM EDT
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Names
> 
> 
> When I bought my Pearson with a buddy we agreed that the first thing that had 
> to go was the name: Soul Mates.
> 
> Never did agree on a new name.
> 
> Joel
> 

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Re: Stus-List Re; Boat names

[Ed dooley via CnC-List]

There's a boat in a nearby marina named WE DREAM. You can still see the painted 
out T.
Ed

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 22, 2015, at 8:22 PM, "Dennis C."  wrote:

> There's a boat in my area named "Wet Dreams".   Please don't ever name a boat 
> this.
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> On Sep 22, 2015 6:00 PM, "Andrew Burton via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
>> My dad met a fellow in Vancouver who sold him on the C&C 27...and the brand. 
>> The fellow's name was Mike Pope, so naturally enough, his boat was called 
>> Vatican.
>> 
>> Andy
>> C&C 40
>> Peregrine
>> 
>> On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 4:52 PM, Robert Gallagher via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>>> My first boat, C&C 30MKI was named Trysail.  The previous owner sold Flying 
>>> Scotts (I think) at one time so it was a play on words.  She still carries 
>>> that name.
>>> 
>>> My new boat, C&C 30 MKII, was named Lagniappe when I purchased her.  Talk 
>>> about a mouth full and a triple repeat on the spelling when calling a 
>>> bridge, marina, or vessel.  After the delivery trip North from Annapolis to 
>>> Mystic I changed the name.  I got tired of repeating myself.  Didn't like 
>>> the name myself, but anyone from New Orleans seemed to love it, reminded 
>>> them of home.
>>> 
>>> So I renamed my current boat HANUMAN.  Seems simple enough and I'm still 
>>> amused that most folks can't pronounce it, nor spell it.  HA NEW MAN.
>>> 
>>> Hanuman is a very prevalent character in the Ramayana and his picture is 
>>> probably hanging on the wall in every Indian restaurant in the world.  
>>> Millions of kids watch him in cartoons.  He's carved into every early 
>>> Buddhist/Hindu temple across Asia.  I just happen to be on the wrong side 
>>> of the world now and I guess I spent to much time in Asia.
>>> 
>>> Oddly enough, Hanuman is also the namesake of one of the J Class yachts.  
>>> The owner has spinnaker graphics similar to the tattoo on my leg. :)  
>>> Fortunately, I had the tattoo longer so I can say he stole my idea..lol   
>>> It's the Khmer version of Hanuman carved into the the temples of Cambodia, 
>>> Laos, Thailand and Burma/Myanmar.
>>> 
>>> Anyway, the Ramayana is one of those books everyone should read, or at 
>>> least try to, once in their life.
>>> 
>>> I hope I didn't put anyone to sleep with this tale
>>> 
>>> Rob
>>> C&C 30 MKII
>>> HANUMAN
>>> Noank, CT
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Andrew Burton
>> 61 W Narragansett Ave
>> Newport, RI
>> USA 02840
>> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>> phone  +401 965 5260
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Wife dosen't like it when the boat leans

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

My partner never sailed until she met me. I bought my C&C24 5 years ago, 3 
years into our relationship. She was game to try sailing, but the 1st day out 
the winds were about 20 knots.
That's a bigger deal on Lake Champlain because the chop is so short compared to 
bigger water.
You can really get banged around at 20 knots.
I purposely took it easy, but she still hit the deck screaming when we heeled 
over. It didn't matter that I pointed out the local yacht club boats racing 
near us and how much more they were heeled over than us. For the next 3 years 
sailing friends would ask what kind of a day on the lake we had and they would 
know when I said, "It was a 3 screamer" (a good day, for me), or "A one 
screamer" (a pretty boring sail). It was so common that I finally named the 
boat because of it. I originally wanted an Irish name (I'm an Irish citizen, 
dual actually). Someone suggested Screaming Banshee, because of Kathy's 
screaming. I liked it at first, but Screaming might imply to people that I have 
a fast boat (not the case with me sailing her as a cruiser), so I named her 
Banshee, which also happens to be an Irish fairy maiden, that warns of 
impending doom ("welcome aboard, you'll be fine"). Kathy's screams have 
subsided to the point that we're naming the dinghy after her new sound, Low 
Pitiful Moan.
The message is, given enough time and experience, it subsides.
Ed

> On Sep 24, 2014, at 8:39 AM, "Dennis C."  wrote:
> 
> Relationships are compromise and tolerance. 
> 
> I have several sailing buddies whose wives won't go near a boat. At least 
> they're honest and candid about their position. 
> 
> I have two friends whose ladies were interested in the boats while they were 
> dating. Once they were wed, the ladies lost interest. 
> 
> On the other hand, I have sailing friends that use their boats as their "man 
> cave".  
> 
> I'd say that if Curtis' lady has stuck around for 30+ years, he's doing a lot 
> of things right. Good on ya, Curtis. 
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Sep 24, 2014, at 7:15 AM, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Chuck
>>  
>> You are lucky that your wife likes being aboard the boat.  Sounds like you 
>> have a good system worked out
>>  
>> Mike
>> Persistence
>> (as usual not a C&C)
>>  
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S 
>> via CnC-List
>> Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 11:44 PM
>> To: Us; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wife dosen't like it when the boat leans
>>  
>> Thanks for the suggestions.  All good, but not for my girl. 
>> Hiring a coach or taking a course won't change the fact that she doesn't 
>> like that sailboats lean when powered up.  She's just not interested in a 
>> sailing course or coaching or changing.  We're 60 and been together 30+ 
>> years.  We've had this boat for 12 years and she likes harbor cruises under 
>> power or anchoring overnight, or all the social stuff at the dock or rafting 
>> up.  My daughter is the same.  My son however is like me and took to sailing 
>> right off.  He joined his college's sailing team and loves racing with me.  
>> I've raced the boat without my wife or daughter and won regattas with 1st 
>> time ever crew, so I assure you I am fairly competent.  I can calmly explain 
>> which line to put to what winch and which way to turn it and never raise my 
>> voice except to be heard.  I've put newbies on the wheel and coached them to 
>> steer and they loved steering.  I've also taken guests who just wanted a 
>> ride, didn't want to do anything and I just set the autohelm and do it all 
>> like I do when I'm alone.  My wife likes that style until it gets above 10 
>> knots when the boat comes alive and we start making 6 plus knots and heel to 
>> 25 degrees cause the apparent becomes 16 and then we're doing 7.3 knots and 
>> lovin it, until she's almost crying something like, "do you have to make it 
>> lean so much?  Let's find a place to go swimming."
>>  
>> She's missing the sailing gene, but I can't change her and she has no desire 
>> to take a course or let me hire a coach.  I guess I'll run our boat like a 
>> trawler when she's aboard, and save the sailing for when she's not there.   
>> I'm gonna order that tow toy.
>>  
>> Chuck
>> Resolute
>> 1990 C&C 34R
>> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>>  
>> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
>> To: "Gary Nylander" , "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
>> 
>> Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 7:44:09 PM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wife dosen't like it when the boat leans
>>  
>> Ok, here's a response from a woman.
>>  
>> I married into sailing. Started with a small boat, took trips to New England 
>> and the Caribbean on  charters in significantly larger boats (where my love 
>> for C&C began). I learned to love the lifestyle and a bit of racing but what 
>> really shifted my thinking was crewing on someone else's boat. 
>>  
>> Consider this, expectations are high and so

Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks, and All Is Lost

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

Farley Mowat also had the distinction of being banned from the U.S.
He was getting on a plane in Toronto for a book tour in the U.S. when he was
told
he wasn¹t allowed in. He was on a list of Anarchists, Communists, and other
ne¹er do wells.
Not a book, but has anyone seen the sailing disaster film, All Is Lost, with
Robert Redford?
I had high expectations, but was pretty disappointed.
Ed


From: Paul Fountain 
To: "Richard N. Bush" , ""

Subject: Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Sadly Farley Mowat recently passed away.

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 17, 2014, at 9:32 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Sometime last spring, someone on the list mentioned that he was reading the
Farley Mowat book; "The Boat Who Wouldn't Float"; I had never heard of Mr.
Mowat, but noted that the comment was that the book was enjoyable. So I
picked up a used paperback copy on ebay.  I laid it aside during spring
launch and other activities, and came across it a couple of weeks ago.   I
just finished the book and I am hooked. This was a great read and I couldn't
put it down.  Since I know little of the northern waters described in the
book, I kept my laptop next to me and scoped out all of the places they
went, which made it even more enjoyable.   So thank you to whomever it was
that suggested the book, I am now a Mowat fan!

Richard
1985 37 CB, Ohio River, Mile 584;
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255

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Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks, and All Is Lost

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

This article describes what they did to make it look as real as it did. I
think
I would have enjoyed it more on the big screen. I watched it on a 37² TV.
One of the scenes that stood out was when the boat capsized and Redford is
underwater looking up at the upside down
cockpit. He swims straight up into the cockpit just as the boat does another
180, and he¹s back in the upright cockpit
above water.
Ed

http://www.sailingworld.com/all-lost-hollywood



From: Danny Haughey 
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2014 18:49:26 GMT
To: , 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks, and All Is Lost

I just watched that movie a couple of weeks ago.
I didn't want to turn it off...
 
I found myself asking, "WTF is he doing now?" a lot.
 
found out it was a Cal 39 that he was on.  They basically bought and
destroyed 3 of them for the movie.
 
Danny


-- Original Message ------
From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks, and All Is Lost
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2014 14:36:18 -0400

Farley Mowat also had the distinction of being banned from the U.S.
 He was getting on a plane in Toronto for a book tour in the U.S. when he
was told
 he wasn¹t allowed in. He was on a list of Anarchists, Communists, and other
ne¹er do wells.
 Not a book, but has anyone seen the sailing disaster film, All Is Lost,
with Robert Redford?
 I had high expectations, but was pretty disappointed.
 Ed
 
 
 From: Paul Fountain 
 To: "Richard N. Bush" , ""
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks
 Message-ID: 
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
 
 Sadly Farley Mowat recently passed away.
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
 On Oct 17, 2014, at 9:32 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List
 mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
 
 Sometime last spring, someone on the list mentioned that he was reading the
 Farley Mowat book; "The Boat Who Wouldn't Float"; I had never heard of Mr.
 Mowat, but noted that the comment was that the book was enjoyable. So I
 picked up a used paperback copy on ebay.  I laid it aside during spring
 launch and other activities, and came across it a couple of weeks ago.   I
 just finished the book and I am hooked. This was a great read and I
couldn't
 put it down.  Since I know little of the northern waters described in the
 book, I kept my laptop next to me and scoped out all of the places they
 went, which made it even more enjoyable.   So thank you to whomever it was
 that suggested the book, I am now a Mowat fan!
 
 Richard
 1985 37 CB, Ohio River, Mile 584;
 Richard N. Bush
 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
 Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
 502-584-7255
 


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Stus-List One more All Is Lost link

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

I found myself annoyed by all the little, and big, mistakes made:
http://www.mirror.co.uk/tv/tv-news/wrong-robert-redfords-film-epic-2993403
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Re: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 to windward

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

I¹m pretty sure we¹re not allowed to incite on this list.  :-)
Ed

From: Curtis 
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2014 09:38:07 -0500
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 to windward

I have not had a lot of windward experiences with my new C&C. Its an old
boat but 4 years new to me. It looks like it points well. Thanks for
your incite.

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Re: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 to windward

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

Couldn¹t resist  :-)
Ed



From: Curtis 
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2014 13:16:40 -0500
To: Ed Dooley , 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 to windward

Haha too funny. Bad spell check on the Droid 5

On Nov 4, 2014 12:54 PM, "Ed Dooley via CnC-List" 
wrote:
> I¹m pretty sure we¹re not allowed to incite on this list.  :-)
> Ed
> 
> From: Curtis 
> Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2014 09:38:07 -0500
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 to windward
> 
> I have not had a lot of windward experiences with my new C&C. Its an old boat
> but 4 years new to me. It looks like it points well. Thanks for your
> incite.
> 
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> at:
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> 
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List smart phone navigation programs

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

Navionics on my iPhone. It¹s the only experience I have with mobile charts.
Works great here on Lake Champlain,
not the most challenging waters. Here¹s the Droid version link:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/developer?id=Navionics&hl=en

Ed




From: Fred Hazzard 
What to listers like for navigation programs/charting for smart phones.

I have a Droid mini.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or

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Re: Stus-List smart phone navigation programs

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

I would have dropped anchor at the North Hero House, had a great dinner, and
waited it out. My Navionics
knows how to get me there.  :-)
Ed



From: Letsgo Sailing 
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2014 17:52:58 -0500
To: 'Ed Dooley' , 
Subject: RE: Stus-List smart phone navigation programs

Not very challenging unless you sail the north exit to Richelieu river,
01:00 hours in the dark with rain that couldn¹t see the end of the boom.
 

Yanni Boatless in Ontario
Not for longŠ
 
92 Lebaron 3.0 convertible
95 LeBaron 3.0 turbo convertible
07 Yamaha Straotoliner S
SCRC 011059
SRO 26-6483
 
TURBO!cause bottles are for babies and superchargers blow!!!
Which would you rather have, go fast goodies or shiny shoes?
Your feet may look good but if your engine blows you ain't going nowhere
 
 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ed Dooley
via CnC-List
Sent: December 1, 2014 5:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List smart phone navigation programs
 
Navionics on my iPhone. It¹s the only experience I have with mobile charts.
Works great here on Lake Champlain,
not the most challenging waters. Here¹s the Droid version link:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/developer?id=Navionics&hl=en

Ed




From: Fred Hazzard 
What to listers like for navigation programs/charting for smart phones.

I have a Droid mini.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or


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Re: Stus-List smart phone navigation programs

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

No criticism intended. Too bad you didn¹t get to spend some time on the
lake, it¹s beautiful with
the Green Mountains to the East and the Adirondacks to the West.
Ed



From: Letsgo Sailing 
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2014 18:02:12 -0500
To: 'Ed Dooley' , 
Subject: RE: Stus-List smart phone navigation programs

Ed I didn¹t have that choice. I had to deliver the boat in Hamilton and the
Erie canal lock 10 had collapsed the  night before I got to Waterford which
added 4.5 days to my trip and having to deal with the French.
 

Yanni Boatless in Ontario
Not for longŠ
 
92 Lebaron 3.0 convertible
95 LeBaron 3.0 turbo convertible
07 Yamaha Straotoliner S
SCRC 011059
SRO 26-6483
 
TURBO!cause bottles are for babies and superchargers blow!!!
Which would you rather have, go fast goodies or shiny shoes?
Your feet may look good but if your engine blows you ain't going nowhere
 
 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ed Dooley
via CnC-List
Sent: December 1, 2014 5:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List smart phone navigation programs
 
I would have dropped anchor at the North Hero House, had a great dinner, and
waited it out. My Navionics
knows how to get me there.  :-)
Ed


From: Letsgo Sailing 
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2014 17:52:58 -0500
To: 'Ed Dooley' , 
Subject: RE: Stus-List smart phone navigation programs

Not very challenging unless you sail the north exit to Richelieu river,
01:00 hours in the dark with rain that couldn¹t see the end of the boom.
 

Yanni Boatless in Ontario
Not for longŠ
 
92 Lebaron 3.0 convertible
95 LeBaron 3.0 turbo convertible
07 Yamaha Straotoliner S
SCRC 011059
SRO 26-6483
 
TURBO!cause bottles are for babies and superchargers blow!!!
Which would you rather have, go fast goodies or shiny shoes?
Your feet may look good but if your engine blows you ain't going nowhere
 
 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ed Dooley
via CnC-List
Sent: December 1, 2014 5:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List smart phone navigation programs

Navionics on my iPhone. It¹s the only experience I have with mobile charts.
Works great here on Lake Champlain,
not the most challenging waters. Here¹s the Droid version link:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/developer?id=Navionics&hl=en

Ed




From: Fred Hazzard 
What to listers like for navigation programs/charting for smart phones.

I have a Droid mini.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or


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Re: Stus-List smart phone navigation programs

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

Four hundred feet at the deepest, right out of my bay. Short chop and 
fast-changing wind direction.
Ed

> On Dec 1, 2014, at 8:02 PM, Letsgo Sailing  wrote:
> 
> I am sorry Ed I didn’t take it that way.  I am looking forward to sail Lake 
> Champlain one day for pleasure.  I know it is beautiful and deep.  
>  
> Yanni Boatless in Ontario
> Not for long…
>  
> 92 Lebaron 3.0 convertible
> 95 LeBaron 3.0 turbo convertible
> 07 Yamaha Straotoliner S
> SCRC 011059
> SRO 26-6483
>  
> TURBO!cause bottles are for babies and superchargers blow!!!
> Which would you rather have, go fast goodies or shiny shoes?
> Your feet may look good but if your engine blows you ain't going nowhere
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ed Dooley 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: December 1, 2014 6:06 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List smart phone navigation programs
>  
> No criticism intended. Too bad you didn’t get to spend some time on the lake, 
> it’s beautiful with
> the Green Mountains to the East and the Adirondacks to the West.
> Ed
> 
> 
> From: Letsgo Sailing 
> Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2014 18:02:12 -0500
> To: 'Ed Dooley' , 
> Subject: RE: Stus-List smart phone navigation programs
> 
> Ed I didn’t have that choice. I had to deliver the boat in Hamilton and the 
> Erie canal lock 10 had collapsed the  night before I got to Waterford which 
> added 4.5 days to my trip and having to deal with the French. 
>  
> 
> Yanni Boatless in Ontario
> Not for long…
>  
> 92 Lebaron 3.0 convertible
> 95 LeBaron 3.0 turbo convertible
> 07 Yamaha Straotoliner S
> SCRC 011059
> SRO 26-6483
>  
> TURBO!cause bottles are for babies and superchargers blow!!!
> Which would you rather have, go fast goodies or shiny shoes?
> Your feet may look good but if your engine blows you ain't going nowhere
>  
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ed Dooley 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: December 1, 2014 5:58 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List smart phone navigation programs
> 
> I would have dropped anchor at the North Hero House, had a great dinner, and 
> waited it out. My Navionics
> knows how to get me there.  :-)
> Ed
> From: Letsgo Sailing 
> Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2014 17:52:58 -0500
> To: 'Ed Dooley' , 
> Subject: RE: Stus-List smart phone navigation programs
> 
> Not very challenging unless you sail the north exit to Richelieu river, 01:00 
> hours in the dark with rain that couldn’t see the end of the boom.
>  
> 
> Yanni Boatless in Ontario
> Not for long…
>  
> 92 Lebaron 3.0 convertible
> 95 LeBaron 3.0 turbo convertible
> 07 Yamaha Straotoliner S
> SCRC 011059
> SRO 26-6483
>  
> TURBO!!!!!cause bottles are for babies and superchargers blow!!!
> Which would you rather have, go fast goodies or shiny shoes?
> Your feet may look good but if your engine blows you ain't going nowhere
>  
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ed Dooley 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: December 1, 2014 5:14 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List smart phone navigation programs
> 
> Navionics on my iPhone. It’s the only experience I have with mobile charts. 
> Works great here on Lake Champlain,
> not the most challenging waters. Here’s the Droid version link:
> https://play.google.com/store/apps/developer?id=Navionics&hl=en
> 
> Ed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: Fred Hazzard 
> What to listers like for navigation programs/charting for smart phones.
> 
> I have a Droid mini.
> 
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C&C 44
> Portland, Or
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Re: Stus-List Dribble (losing glasses)

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

You obviously need these Chuck:
https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/glasses-trackr-locate-sunglasses-and-eyeg
lasses-using-your-smartphone
http://nocamels.com/2014/09/cant-find-your-glasses-look-is-the-smart-trackin
g-device-that-will/

And so do I.
Ed




>> From: Chuck S 
>> Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2014 05:41:58 + (UTC)
>> To: Marek Dziedzic , "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"
>> 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Dribble (losing glasses)
>> 
Totally relate.  I'm 60 and near sighted.  But I have to take my "distance
only" glasses off to see close up.  This works great for computer work, or
print reading.  I work as an HVAC Mechanic at a school and often loose the
glasses at the end of the day.  I usually find them above the ceiling tile
or on a roll of prints.  Today I hooked them in the neck of my uniform
shirt, (no pocket) and they fell down inside the shirt to my waist.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

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Re: Stus-List Dribble (losing glasses)

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

Misplacing your glasses and dropping them overboard are 2 very different
things.  :-)
Ed



From: Marek Dziedzic 
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2014 14:20:28 -0500
To: 'Ed Dooley' , 
Subject: RE: Stus-List Dribble (losing glasses)

Does it work under water? (;-)
 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ed Dooley
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2014 9:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dribble (losing glasses)
 
You obviously need these Chuck:
https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/glasses-trackr-locate-sunglasses-and-eyeg
lasses-using-your-smartphone
http://nocamels.com/2014/09/cant-find-your-glasses-look-is-the-smart-trackin
g-device-that-will/

And so do I.
Ed



> 
> From: Chuck S 
> Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2014 05:41:58 + (UTC)
> To: Marek Dziedzic , "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Dribble (losing glasses)
> Totally relate.  I'm 60 and near sighted.  But I have to take my "distance
> only" glasses off to see close up.  This works great for computer work, or
> print reading.  I work as an HVAC Mechanic at a school and often loose the
> glasses at the end of the day.  I usually find them above the ceiling tile or
> on a roll of prints.  Today I hooked them in the neck of my uniform shirt, (no
> pocket) and they fell down inside the shirt to my waist.
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 

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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

My shins agree with the last comment. I have a C&C24, but don't know what
might be different from the original.
Halyards to winches on the cabin top at the cockpit, no genoa track (but
simple to adjust for whatever foresail I choose with blocks clipped in to 2"
or so increments in the aluminum toe-rail.
One improvement (I don't think they were original, but who knows?) are the
Barient self-tailing winches for the main sheets (nice improvement!).
Teak grab rail on the cabin, split back stay with adjuster, home-made boom
vang (not well thought out by previous owner). From the brochures on
Stu's site http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ it looks like, as Chris said, the
early models had halyards to mast base, not so on later models where they go
to winches on the cabin top, at the cockpit.
Ed

From:  Marek Dziedzic 
Date:  Wed, 4 Feb 2015 15:21:48 -0500
To:  "'Hoyt, Mike'" , 
Subject:  Re: Stus-List C&C24

One of the big improvements was the change from the main sheeting to the
cabin top (without the traveller) to a traveller in the cockpit. That change
improved dramatically trimming of the main, even if some complained that the
traveller was getting in the way of getting into the companion way.
 
There was a good picture on the boat for sail in BC (?) just a week or so
ago.
 
Marek
(ex. C&C 24 Fennel)
 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: February-04-15 14:28
To: chris hulett; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C24
 
Did you take pictures prior to stripping off the hardware?  Some of the
added hardware may be a big improvement on the original as many of the older
C&Cs came with hayards led to mast base, no boom vang, no backstay adjuster,
no genoa tracks etc and many boats have been upgraded to run lines to
cockpit and added very necessary sail and rig trim adjustments
 
Mike
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of chris
hulett via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2015 3:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C24
 
I have a C&C24 that I recently purchased and it needs a lot of work.I have
striped everything off of the deck and in the process of fixing all the
fiberglass , when I've finished I will start installing all the deck
hardware and lines, it looks like over the years the boat owners have added
extra hardware . I'm wanting to get this boat back to original hardwsre and
lines , so if anyone has pictures of how a C&C 24 should rig I wold live to
see them. 


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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

Good point. I'm a cruiser, but when my friend pulls up next to me egging me
on to race, it would be nice to have
one more edge in my favor.
Ed

From:  Gary Nylander 
Date:  Wed, 4 Feb 2015 16:22:54 -0500
To:  Ed Dooley , 
Subject:  Re: Stus-List C&C24

The only suggestion I would have is to consider genoa tracks. The reason is
our C&C's are rather 'fat' boats and sheeting the genoa to the toe rail
gives us a wider than optimum sheeting angle for the genoa. When I got my
30-1, I (had been to a couple of seminars and was loaded?? with knowledge) I
calculated the sheeting angle for the genoa was about 12-13 degrees and my
impressive knowledge suggested it should be around 10-11. Thus, tracks. This
gives you the opportunity to unhook the genoa and run it back to the rail
when you want the best angle for reaching, thus increasing the tasks you can
get your faithful crew to do.
 
If you are cruising and are not dedicated to the highest possible pointing
angle, then disregard the above. If not, then drill a bunch of leaky holes
in your deck and have the drips come down inside...
 
Gary
>  
> - Original Message -----
>  
> From:  Ed Dooley  via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>  
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>  
> Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2015 3:54  PM
>  
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C24
>  
> 
>  
> My shins agree with the last comment. I have a C&C24, but don't know  what
> might be different from the original.
>  
> Halyards to winches on the cabin top at the cockpit, no genoa track (but
> simple to adjust for whatever foresail I choose with blocks clipped in to 2"
> or so increments in the aluminum toe-rail.
>  
> One improvement (I don't think they were original, but who knows?) are  the
> Barient self-tailing winches for the main sheets (nice improvement!).
>  
> Teak grab rail on the cabin, split back stay with adjuster, home-made  boom
> vang (not well thought out by previous owner). From the brochures on
>  
> Stu's site http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ it looks  like, as Chris said, the
> early models had halyards to mast base, not so on  later models where they go
> to winches on the cabin top, at the cockpit.
>  
> Ed
>  
> 
>  
> From: Marek Dziedzic 
> Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2015 15:21:48 -0500
> To: "'Hoyt, Mike'" , 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C24
>  
> 
>  
>
>  
>  
> 
> One  of the big improvements was the change from the main sheeting to the
> cabin top  (without the traveller) to a traveller in the cockpit. That change
> improved  dramatically trimming of the main, even if some complained that the
> traveller  was getting in the way of getting into the companion way.
>  
>  
> There  was a good picture on the boat for sail in BC (?) just a week or so
> ago.
>  
>  
> Marek
>  
> (ex.  C&C 24 Fennel)
>  
>  
>  
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List  [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]  On Behalf Of Hoyt,
> Mike via CnC-List
> Sent: February-04-15  14:28
> To: chris hulett; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject:  Re: Stus-List C&C24
>  
>  
> Did you take pictures prior to stripping off the hardware?   Some of the added
> hardware may be a big improvement on the original as many of  the older C&Cs
> came with hayards led to mast base, no boom vang, no  backstay adjuster, no
> genoa tracks etc and many boats have been upgraded to  run lines to cockpit
> and added very necessary sail and rig trim  adjustments
>  
>  
> Mike
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List  [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]  On Behalf Of chris
> hulett via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday,  February 04, 2015 3:20 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject:  Stus-List C&C24
>  
>  
> I have a C&C24 that I recently  purchased and it needs a lot of work.I have
> striped everything off of the deck  and in the process of fixing all the
> fiberglass , when I've finished I will  start installing all the deck hardware
> and lines, it looks like over the years  the boat owners have added extra
> hardware . I'm wanting to get this boat back  to original hardwsre and lines ,
> so if anyone has pictures of how a C&C 24  should rig I wold live to see them.
>  
>  
> 
>  
> 
> ___
> 
> Email  address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences,  including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
> of page  at:
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> 


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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

Inhauler, which doesn't work with a genny that's below cabin top, I don't
think.
Ed

On 2/5/15 2:56 PM, "Leslie Paal"  wrote:

>You can always use an extra line to narrow the sheeting angle (the name
>escapes me at the moment).
>
>Leslie
>was Navigo 2 (C&C25)
>
>----------------
>On Wed, 2/4/15, Ed Dooley via CnC-List  wrote:
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C24
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Date: Wednesday, February 4, 2015, 1:44 PM
> 
> Good
> point. I'm a cruiser, but when my friend pulls up next
> to me egging me on to race, it would be nice to
> haveone more edge in my
> favor.Ed
> From:  Gary Nylander 
> Date: 
> Wed, 4 Feb 2015 16:22:54 -0500
> To:  Ed Dooley ,
> 
> Subject:
>  Re: Stus-List C&C24
> 
> The only suggestion I would have is to
> consider
> genoa tracks. The reason is our C&C's are rather
> 'fat' boats and sheeting
> the genoa to the toe rail gives us a wider than optimum
> sheeting angle for the
> genoa. When I got my 30-1, I (had been to a couple of
> seminars and was loaded??
> with knowledge) I calculated the sheeting angle for the
> genoa was about
> 12-13 degrees and my impressive knowledge suggested it
> should be around 10-11.
> Thus, tracks. This gives you the opportunity to unhook the
> genoa and run it back
> to the rail when you want the best angle for reaching, thus
> increasing the tasks
> you can get your faithful crew to do. If you are cruising and are not
>dedicated to
> the
> highest possible pointing angle, then disregard the above.
> If not, then drill a
> bunch of leaky holes in your deck and have the drips come
> down
> inside... Gary
>   - Original Message -
> 
>   From:
>   Ed Dooley
>   via CnC-List 
>   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
>   Sent: Wednesday,
> February 04, 2015 3:54
>   PM
>   Subject: Re:
> Stus-List C&C24
>   
> 
>   My shins agree with the last comment. I have a
> C&C24, but don't know
>   what might be different from the original.
>   Halyards to winches on the cabin top at the cockpit,
> no genoa track (but
>   simple to adjust for whatever foresail I choose with
> blocks clipped in to 2"
>   or so increments in the aluminum toe-rail.
>   One improvement (I don't think they were
> original, but who knows?) are
>   the Barient self-tailing winches for the main sheets (nice
> improvement!).
>   Teak grab rail on the cabin, split back stay with
> adjuster, home-made
>   boom vang (not well thought out by previous owner). From
> the brochures
> on
>   Stu's site http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
> it looks
>   like, as Chris said, the early models had halyards to mast
> base, not so on
>   later models where they go to winches on the cabin top, at
> the cockpit.
>   Ed
>   
> 
>   From: Marek Dziedzic 
> Date:
> Wed, 4 Feb 2015 15:21:48 -0500
> To: "'Hoyt,
> Mike'" ,
> 
> Subject:
> Re: Stus-List C&C24
> 
>   
> 
>   
>_filtered
> #yiv4912952462 {
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> 
>   
>   One
>   of the big improvements was the change from the main
> sheeting to the cabin top
>   (without the traveller) to a traveller in the cockpit.
> That change improved
>   dramatically trimm

Re: Stus-List Barient winches.

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

I use spray lithium grease on my Barient 10ST winches. It penetrates better
than a brush and lasts a long time (and is less messy).
There are many brands, including WD-40. I missed the original post, and I
imagine from one reply that the original poster is in Australia.
Lewmar, with many retailers around the world, including Oz, owns Barient. I
buy my Barient repair kits from Lewmar dealers.
Ed

From:  Chuck S 
Date:  Sat, 21 Feb 2015 15:38:09 + (UTC)
To:  Steve Thomas , "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"

Subject:  Re: Stus-List Barient winches.

A small terry hand towel laid on deck is great to hold dirty parts and keep
them from sliding around.  Another trick is to cut a hole in a shallow
cardboard box ( w 4" high sides) so it can be placed over the winch, to
catch parts.  I find cardboard boxes for projects like this really save the
deck too.  On windy days, you have to take other precautions though.

 Mineral spirits or diesel fuel or Kerosene are good solvents for cleaning
the grease from winches.  Stu's website has the entire Barient Catologue as
well as cleanng procedures, and the detailed drawings that help a great
deal.  All downloadable.

I find after a good cleaning, and drying, oil the pawls and springs w 3 in 1
Oil and grease the gears using a small acid brush, sparingly according to
instructions.  Next year, you can probably skip the heavy cleaning, just oil
the pawls, and add a little grease using the acid brush.

I keep a tube of grease, a bottle of 3 in 1 oil, small acid brushes and
maybe a plastic scraper in a ziplock sandwich bag, marked w sharpie,
WINCHES, w my spare parts.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


From: "Steve Thomas via CnC-List" 
To: "mike amirault" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2015 9:58:14 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient winches.

The only tricky bit is in not losing the pawls or springs.
A cloth fastened between the toe rail and lifeline may help.
 



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Re: Stus-List C&C 25 leak

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

Not to take away anything from Dennis' good advice, but I did exactly what 
you're thinking of doing on my C&C 24 and it
solved my leaking problem. I actually probably went 1/2 turn (it was 5 years 
ago, so not sure). As Dennis said, there might be other
reasons for your leak. And as for the butyl tape between the hull and topsides, 
when I tightened the bolts a very small amount of what looked like butyl,
but more liquid, oozed out at one spot which led me to believe it wasn't in 
tape form. Before tightening the bolts I was about to re-bed the toe rails, 
which
*does* have butyl tape between them and the deck, but the tightening fixed it.
Ed


On May 1, 2016, at 4:23 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> From: "Dennis C." 
> Date: May 1, 2016 4:22:49 PM EDT
> To: CnClist 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 leak
> 
> 
> Mark,
> 
> Leaks in the hull/deck joint are not uncommon.  However, one must consider 
> whether the leak is from under the rub rail due to excessive heeling and wave 
> action or from water ingress through the deck/toe rail interface or from the 
> fasteners.  Don't think that because it doesn't leak except when sailing that 
> the deck/toe rail interface isn't the source.  The deck/toe rail interface 
> may well leak as the boat flexes while sailing but does not leak while the 
> boat is at rest.
> 
> Your solution may be correct with one very significant caveat.  Tightening 
> the bolts will compress the butyl sealant and sailing the boat may result in 
> additional leakage.  A few iterations of this may result in no sealant 
> remaining.
> 
> I tightened the bolts once when first got Touche' later deciding it may not 
> be the best practice.  Now I use multiple applications of Captain Tolley's 
> Creeping Crack Cure along the deck/toe rail interface.  Capt Tolley's 
> "creeps" into the joint and cures forming a seal.  I repeat applications 
> every 2-3 years.
> 
> While I may get some leakage due to extreme heeling, I'd be content to let 
> that happen and either sponge out the compartments or drill limber holes to 
> let the water drain to the bilge.
> 
> Just my 2 cents worth.  
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Sun, May 1, 2016 at 2:27 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I have water in each of the aft storage bins under the settees.  When it 
> rains no water accumulates, but when we go for a sail there will be a small 
> amount of water in each bin.  After I dry it out, it stays dry until we go 
> for a sail.   What I'm thinking is there is a leak in the seal in between the 
> topsides and the hull seam, and sea spray forces its way into the hull on the 
> down wind side.   I was thinking that I need to tighten the bolts along the 
> toe rail that hold the topsides to the hull.  I've read online that you hold 
> the screw steady on top and turn the bolt underneath.  I believe there is 
> butyl tape in between the hull and the topsides.   I was thinking of giving 
> each bolt a 1/4 turn.  Is my thinking on this correct?
> 
> Thanks a lot for your help.
> 
> Mark McMenamy
> C&C 25 "Icicle"
> Fort Pierce FL



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Re: Stus-List C&C 25 leak

[Ed dooley via CnC-List]

Mine was the bilge too.
Ed

Sent from my iPhone

On May 1, 2016, at 5:04 PM, Sailnomad  wrote:

> I have the same problem too, but it is in the bilge, and does not seem tn be 
> related to heeling or sailing.
> Ahmet
> Winthrop, MA
> C&C25 "Tabasco"
> 
> On Sun, May 1, 2016 at 3:27 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>> Hello everyone,
>> 
>> I have water in each of the aft storage bins under the settees.  When it 
>> rains no water accumulates, but when we go for a sail there will be a small 
>> amount of water in each bin.  After I dry it out, it stays dry until we go 
>> for a sail.   What I'm thinking is there is a leak in the seal in between 
>> the topsides and the hull seam, and sea spray forces its way into the hull 
>> on the down wind side.   I was thinking that I need to tighten the bolts 
>> along the toe rail that hold the topsides to the hull.  I've read online 
>> that you hold the screw steady on top and turn the bolt underneath.  I 
>> believe there is butyl tape in between the hull and the topsides.   I was 
>> thinking of giving each bolt a 1/4 turn.  Is my thinking on this correct?
>> 
>> Thanks a lot for your help.
>> 
>> Mark McMenamy
>> C&C 25 "Icicle"
>> Fort Pierce FL
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
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Re: Stus-List Could this happen at your yacht club?

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

Definitely not here in Vermont. I've heard that gators won't eat sailors 
because they're too tough, that they focus
on mega-powerboat folks, who are said to be more tender.
Ed


On Jul 28, 2016, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> From: "Dennis C." 
> Date: July 28, 2016 11:49:13 AM EDT
> To: CnClist 
> Subject: Stus-List Could this happen at your yacht club?
> 
> 
> This was across the street from my yacht club.  I usually park in the parking 
> lot shown.
> 
> 
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 



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Re: Stus-List Compression Post Base Rot

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

I replied to this from my phone and I think I forgot to delete all the other 
digest posts, etc. Sorry about that.
Here’s my reply again: 
> I did it on my 1983 C&C24 when I first bought her. It's very straightforward. 
> The OEM base was plywood, looked to be fir, if I remember correctly. And 
> although it was rotting, there was enough left of it to use as the template 
> for the replacement. I used a piece of solid mahogany epoxied cross grain 
> into 2 laminations. I also epoxied the base on all faces before epoxying it 
> in place, for extra rot resistance. The post detached easily (while the mast 
> was unstepped, of course!)
> Ed

> From: Kreg Kinney mailto:kregkin...@gmail.com>>
> I noticed that the shrouds on my 1977 C&C 24 were a little loose.  I did a 
> bit of digging and found that the base of the compression post, in the bilge, 
> has started to rot and has caused the compression post to be about 1/2" lower 
> than it should be.  I plan to tackle this repair over winter haul out.  Has 
> anyone else experienced this?  The coachhouse in the area of the mast step 
> shows no signs of rotted core, so I don't believe that I will have any issue 
> there.  I plan to unstep the mast to rewire, so will do the compression post 
> repair with the most off.  Is there anything that I should look out for, or 
> words to the wise from someone who has done this repair?
> 

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Re: Stus-List Compression Post Base Rot

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

Forgot to add that I think the original base was 3/4”-1”, but for my solid 
replacement I went 1 1/2” just because I could.
Ed
> 
> From: Ed Dooley 
> 
> I replied to this from my phone and I think I forgot to delete all the other 
> digest posts, etc. Sorry about that.
> Here’s my reply again: 
>> I did it on my 1983 C&C24 when I first bought her. It's very 
>> straightforward. The OEM base was plywood, looked to be fir, if I remember 
>> correctly. And although it was rotting, there was enough left of it to use 
>> as the template for the replacement. I used a piece of solid mahogany 
>> epoxied cross grain into 2 laminations. I also epoxied the base on all faces 
>> before epoxying it in place, for extra rot resistance. The post detached 
>> easily (while the mast was unstepped, of course!)
>> Ed
> 
>> From: Kreg Kinney mailto:kregkin...@gmail.com>>
>> I noticed that the shrouds on my 1977 C&C 24 were a little loose.  I did a 
>> bit of digging and found that the base of the compression post, in the 
>> bilge, has started to rot and has caused the compression post to be about 
>> 1/2" lower than it should be.  I plan to tackle this repair over winter haul 
>> out.  Has anyone else experienced this?  The coachhouse in the area of the 
>> mast step shows no signs of rotted core, so I don't believe that I will have 
>> any issue there.  I plan to unstep the mast to rewire, so will do the 
>> compression post repair with the most off.  Is there anything that I should 
>> look out for, or words to the wise from someone who has done this repair?

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Re: Stus-List Derelict C&C 24 MKII

[Ed dooley via CnC-List]

I agree with the "run away!" comments. I bought my C&C 24 7 years ago for 
$3,600, with a rough working job, an almost new 150 (I think) Genny, a 9.9 hp 
outboard that seized up soon after purchase, a trailer. All in all on good 
shape. A year later I looked at almost the identical boat for $2,500. Imagine 
buying sails, rigging, outboard, etc for that.
Ed

On Aug 7, 2017, at 4:48 PM, G Collins  wrote:

> Look at the cost of replacing what you've listed - sails and running rigging. 
>  For that amount see what sort of boat you can buy...
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
> On 2017-08-07 1:50 PM, Bill Dakin via CnC-List wrote:
>> I have had my eyes on a derelict 24 on our dock for months now.  My 
>> inquiries led the management to look into the status of the boat and owners, 
>> if any.  Turns out it belongs to the marina and they are willing to take 
>> offers on it and 'don't worry about insulting offers', which I interpret it 
>> to mean, we would like it to go.  My offer is leaning to pay for the mast 
>> step and haul out to my 25 MKII trailer where I can transport it for long 
>> term renovation.  
>> 
>> The staff pumped out 18" of water on the cabin sole to provide some 
>> inspection opportunity.  The most obvious problem is a drip from the blocks 
>> that lead aft to the cockpit.  I'm concerned this region contains plywood 
>> sandwich construction.  Even if it is only foam in the construction, and it 
>> is saturated, will it be possible to dry out without removing the 
>> fiberglass/gelcoat cabin top.  Both instances are rough with the former 
>> being very serious.  
>> 
>> She has been in the water for many years, so it occurs to me she will have a 
>> blistering hull.  I would be in no hurry to get her renovated.  No sails, 
>> running rigging shot, even water dripping from the chain plates inside the 
>> cabin.  Gosh, I'm about to  talk myself out of this!
>> 
>> Bill Dakin
>> C&C 25 MKII
>> S/V Tapestry
>> 
>> 
>> 
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>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Sealant for chainplates.

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

What about Polyethers? Flexible, adheres to plastics (3M 4000UV does anyway).
Here’s what West Marine says about them:  Polyether: One of the most exposure 
resistant sealants, unaffected by teak oils or cleaners, permanently flexible, 
and sandable. West Marine Multi-Caulk is an excellent choice for wood, metal, 
or fiberglass but will attack some plastics. However, 3M 4000UV 

 is rated as being safe for all plastics.
Ed




> 
> From: "Dennis C." 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealant for chainplates.
> Date: April 10, 2018 at 10:54:56 AM EDT
> To: CnClist 
> 
> 
> In my opinion, the issue with many sealants is they "cure" or set.  So a 
> polyurethane or silicone sets and becomes less flexible.  Further, many of 
> those sealants do not adhere tenaciously to metal.
> 
> Butyl tape, on the other hand, remains sticky and pliable for a long, long 
> time.  That means it will flex with any movement in the hardware without 
> breaking the seal.
> 
> I still use LifeSeal for many applications where there is little potential 
> for movement.  But I'm switching to Butyl tape for bedding anything that may 
> flex.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Tue, Apr 10, 2018 at 9:31 AM, Nauset Beach via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> I have to do the same thing, again.  Used Lifecaulk in August, 2015 and 
> noticed last month one chainplate was damp, and the boat is still under its 
> winter cover. 
> 
>  
> 
> The Maine Sail tape seems to be the favorite bedding material of the list.  
> What is the “life expectancy” of a chainplate seal using this material in the 
> wild?  For bedding hardware he shows examples of 29 years, but the rigging / 
> chainplate / deck interface does move [plus temperature variations from 
> summer to winter plus differing expansion properties] so would guess it would 
> take more frequent maintenance.
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Brian
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2018 9:02 AM
> To: CnClist mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealant for chainplates.
> 
>  
> 
> I just re-bedded Touche's chain plates with Bed-It butyl tape.  
> 
>  
> 
> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape 
> 
>  
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> 
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>  
> 
> On Tue, Apr 10, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Glen Eddie via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> Can someone with a 35 mkI or II let me know the sealant used at the deck when 
> rebedding a chainplate.  4000?
> 
>  
> 
> Your assistance is much appreciated.  
> 
>  
> 
> Glen Eddie
> 
> Tel: 416-777-5357
> 
> Fax: 1-888-812-2557
> 
> ged...@torkinmanes.com 
> VCard 
> 
> Torkin Manes LLP
> Barristers & Solicitors
> 
> 151 Yonge Street, Suite 1500
> Toronto ON M5C 2W7
> torkinmanes.com 
> 
> An international member of Ally Law
> 
> This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named 
> recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential 
> and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this 
> message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email message. 
> Thank you.
> 
> 
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> 
>  
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: Schiller 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealant for chainplates.
> Date: April 10, 2018 at 11:42:54 AM EDT
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> I wish I would have discovered butyl years ago.  I traditionally used life 
> caulk and redid it when it looked like it needed.  My advice to C&C35-1 
> owners is to remove the teak cover off the cabin side of the upper shroud 
> chain plate to look for leakage.
> 
> Neil Schiller
> 1983 C&C 35-3, #28
> “Grace”
> Whitehall, Michigan
> WLYC
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Apr 10, 2018, at 7:54 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
>> In my opinion, the issue with many sealants is they "cure" or set.  So a 
>> polyurethane or silicone sets and becomes less flexible.

Re: Stus-List 1982 C&C 25

[Ed dooley via CnC-List]

I have a 1983 24, not a 25, but it's a solid hull, not sure that an older 25 
would be cored, but as always, I could be wrong. Just in case they have similar 
construction, I'll mention a couple of things on mine that needed immediate 
attention: The deck to hull bolts all the way around were a little loose, 
allowing 3-4 leaks. The previous owner tried caulking the toe rail to deck seam 
to fix them, but slightly tightening all the bolts did the trick (not too tight 
or the butyl would all squeeze out. One of those leaks must have gone on for 
years because it rotted the cabin-cockpit bulkhead on the starboard side, which 
was only visible by climbing down into the seat hatch in the cockpit. I scabbed 
on marine ply, epoxy and screwed, after cutting the rot away (fun in a tight 
space). The 24 has a 3/4" plywood plate connecting the mast's compression post 
to the hull. It was rotten, looked like fir ply, so while the mast was down I 
replaced that with a thicker piece of marine ply, epoxied to the hull. As for 
the outboard comment about it not staying in the water, I sail on Lake 
Champlain where we don't get "seas", we get short chop which I don't go out in 
if it's over 4 feet, too pounding, not much fun. I have a 6hp Tohatsu SailPro 
(plenty of power in fresh water) with the extra long 25" shaft mounted on an 
adjustable transom. At the lowest transom setting the motor is almost in the 
water, the prop couldn't possibly come out of the water. The short chop puts 
the boat at pretty steep angles, which I assume is as good a test of the 
outboard as in bigger seas. I think the 25" shaft makes sense.
Ed

> On Sep 19, 2018, at 9:15 AM,   wrote:
> 
> 
> Roger; welcome to the listI have owned a 1982 25 with a saildriveit 
> has a design flaw which is not worth repairing...water comes in through the 
> "grommet" on the shaft : I rebuilt mine 3 times before putting an outboard 
> on...best move.   We simply glassed in the hole.
> 
> The 25 sails like a much larger boat; when a breeze comes up, she heels to 
> about 20 degrees and accelerates...(you will like that); the deck, although 
> cored, is very strong and well built.  Keep the bottom reasonably clean and 
> have a good set of sails and enjoy yourself!   If you race, you can still 
> out-point many other boats even though the head sail sheets to the 
> toerail...I thought about adding tracks, but you really don't need them.  
> Feel free to call or email me if you have specific questions.
> 
> It is a great boat...
> Richard
> 
> s/v Bushmakk4: 1985 C&C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 602.5
> 
> Richard Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Roger Slade via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Roger Slade 
> Sent: Wed, Sep 19, 2018 8:16 am
> Subject: Stus-List 1982 C&C 25
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> New to the group.  I am going to look at a fresh water C&C 25 built in 1982 a 
> second time and wondered about any ideas of what to look for that is specific 
> to this model.  I believe this boat has a cored deck and cored hull, so will 
> look for any respective issues with water intrusion, deformities, etc.  Boat 
> has been sitting for past 8 years (indoors) so assume it may be difficult to 
> identify and wet areas of decking, but will look for any cracking or 
> deformities around stanchions, fittings, mast step, etc. 
> 
> Boat has a 15hp OMC saildrive which needs a rebuild (seized) , so thinking 
> strongly of removing that and filling in the hole and going with outboard.  
> (engine is already out, but drive is stil in).   
> 
> Interested in any other thoughts on potential problem areas to check out.
> 
> Thanks! 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

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Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast

[Ed dooley via CnC-List]

I unstep and step the mast on my 24 with 2 people and my homemade a-frame gin 
pole. We use the same gin pole to step and unstep my friend's Morgan 25.
Ed

> On Nov 4, 2018, at 9:56 PM, Marek Dziedzic  wrote:
>  
> ...Btw. On my old 24 the mast was like a tree trunk. I would not attempt to 
> step it or unstep it with 3 people (I am not that strong); I’d rather climb 
> it. But again, YMMV.
>  
> Marek
> Ex. 1974 C&C 24
> 1994 C270 Legato
> Ottawa, ON
>  
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of James Hesketh via 
> CnC-List 
> Sent: Sunday, November 4, 2018 8:30:52 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: James Hesketh
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast
>  
> 
> 
> 
>  ALAN wrote:
>> If you use someone to hoist you up the mast, tie the halyard to you or to 
>> your climbing gear, rather than using the shackle that's on the halyard. 
>> Don't let anyone stand under you while you're going up or while you're at 
>> the top, just in case you drop something. A friend of  mine ;loaned me his 
>> half inch drill, and a bit that fit in the winch. It didn't take me long to 
>> hoist one of my crew to the top of the mast, electrically.
> 
>  
> Also, always use a halyard that passes through a sheave in the masthead. 
> Don't trust a block held onto a tang with a shackle.  
> 
> Jim Hesketh
> Whisper
> Coconut Grove, FL
> 
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Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast

[Ed dooley via CnC-List]

> It's a simple 2x4 a-frame, takes 5 minutes to make. It's much cheaper, and 
> safer than climbing the mast after spending much more money on various gear. 
> I don't have a photo of mine, and I mistakenly tried to send an attached 
> photo of one just like it, which got into Stu's moderation pile. Here'a link 
> to it (scroll down 4-5 posts for the photo.

https://www.google.com/amp/www.sailnet.com/forums/seamanship-navigation/280689-single-handed-mast-stepping-without-crane.html%3Ft%3D280689%26amp%3D1

> One added note, because 2 of the attachment points on the mast base of the 24 
> aren't holes that you can put bolts through to keep the base from kicking out 
> while raising or lowering the mast (it's got 2 "hooks" instead), be extra 
> careful to keep tension towards the base. We also tie a line around the base 
> to keep it where it should be, just in case.
Ed
> 
>> On Nov 4, 2018, at 11:43 PM, Marek Dziedzic  wrote:
>> 
>> Obviously, if you have a gin-pole, it is a different story.
>>  
>> Marek
>>  
>> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Ed dooley via 
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: Sunday, November 4, 2018 23:02
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Ed dooley 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast
>>  
>> I unstep and step the mast on my 24 with 2 people and my homemade a-frame 
>> gin pole. We use the same gin pole to step and unstep my friend's Morgan 25.
>> Ed
>> 
>> On Nov 4, 2018, at 9:56 PM, Marek Dziedzic  wrote:
>>  
>> ...Btw. On my old 24 the mast was like a tree trunk. I would not attempt to 
>> step it or unstep it with 3 people (I am not that strong); I’d rather climb 
>> it. But again, YMMV.
>>  
>> Marek
>> Ex. 1974 C&C 24
>> 1994 C270 Legato
>> Ottawa, ON
>>  
>> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>>  
>> 
>>  
___

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Re: Stus-List Mast step repair

[Ed dooley via CnC-List]

When I bought my 24 about 7 years ago, the 1st thing I had to fix was the base 
the compression post sits on. The original base was a piece of 3/4" plywood 
beveled to fit the hull angle, and floating in air in the center for drainage 
underneath. I replaced it with 2 layers of 3/4" marine mahogany plywood, 
epoxied together, then beveled it to match the hull angle, and then completely 
coated it in epoxy and epoxied it into place. It sits 3/4" lower than the 
original to keep the compression post at its original height. Works great and 
it's stronger than the OEM fir ply.
Ed

Banshee, C&C 24

> On Nov 22, 2018, at 11:32 AM, Gary Nylander  wrote:
> 
> I did much the same as Dennis on my 30-1. I used some very strong plastic 
> stuff (3/4” sheet, doubled for the three crossmembers) from McMaster-Carr to 
> replace the stringers which spanned the gap in the bilge. I filled the rest 
> with epoxy so that water would not sit in the lowest part of the bilge, which 
> was right under the mast. Now, I can empty the bilge or sponge it out with 
> ease. After the year of sailing every week, no change in the rig.
>  
> Good luck, the worst part is the sawdust/fiberglass dust which comes from the 
> cleanup process, the rest is relatively easy. Good mask and good vacuum.
>  
> Gary
> 30-1
> Maryland, out of the water yesterday.
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2018 8:13 PM
> To: CnClist 
> Cc: Dennis C. 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast step repair
>  
> Jim,
>  
> The most critical thing is to measure everything before you start.  Granted, 
> the step has subsided so you need to account for that.  Measure against a 
> known reference point.
>  
> Next, make sure you understand and make accommodation for drainage from the 
> fore section of the boat.  This may be as simple as laying a short piece of 
> PVC pipe in the bilge before you start the job.  Also consider any cable runs 
> under the step, if any.
>  
> Consider where you are going to transmit the load.  The "shoulders" of the 
> bilge should be fairly strong.  The shoulders are where the hull turns 
> downward to the bilge.
>  
> Other than those two considerations, wing it!  
>  
> You may be able to use a car jack and 2x4's to lift the cabin roof and remove 
> the compression post will you do the work.
>  
> When I rebuilt Touche's mast step in 2000, Here's the steps I took.
>  
> Cleaned out all the old rotted wood from the original step
> Sanded the shoulders to reveal clean fiberglass
> Cut a piece of cardboard for the floor leaving a nice gap for drainage and 
> cables
> Formed more cardboard for the fore and aft ends
> Laid in multiple layers of epoxy glass spanning between the shoulders of the 
> bilge until it reached the proper elevation
> Here's pics:
>  
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1WK_x9fw5BbqbNJN1UoduAQ68AJ2UuUcu
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1sxolf_U_8EDzVeLUUYghorYhe4h_nLaP
>  
> Note the marks denoting locations.  The top of the epoxy glass block can be 
> seen between the step box and the lip of the sole.
>  
> Pretty much a brute force solution.  That block of epoxy glass will last 
> millenia.  
>  
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>  
> On Wed, Nov 21, 2018 at 6:25 PM James Hesketh via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Thanks for the reply Neil
>  
> My 26 is a bit more complicated -- the mast itself is stepped on the cabin 
> top with a king post extending down to the support in the bilge, It's the 
> support that has failed. I'm referring to that support as the mast step in 
> this case as it is where the load is concentrated.
>  
> Due to the warping of the "step" the cabin top and bulkheads have deformed by 
> a half-inch or so and will need to be reshaped.
>  
> As you say, the cabin sole covers the outboard sections of the that spans 
> over the keel at the turn of the bilge. I'm planing on cutting out those 
> sections of the sole for access and room to glass in the new support.
>  
> Guess I'll figure it out as I go.
>  
> Thanks again,
>  
> Jim Hesketh
> '78 C&C 26
> Coconut Grove, FL
>  
>  
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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