Stus-List 1989 37R Lead Keel Patching?

[Languid Refiner via CnC-List]

 I am purchasing the 37R. It has been dry for five years now in a
warehouse. There is a spot on the keel where it appears some lead is coming
through. The previous owner is very knowledgeable and handy and recommends
patching with some bondo, Any other opinions or suggestions?

https://imgoat.com/uploads/45147dee72/115583.jpg

https://imgoat.com/uploads/45147dee72/115584.jpg

https://imgoat.com/uploads/45147dee72/115585.jpg
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Re: Stus-List 1989 37R Lead Keel Patching?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I wouldn't use bondo.  He may have suggested that and used the word bondo
colloquially.  I suggest using the products and techniques from the article
in the link below.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yV1JEN3YxQk1RbHc/view?usp=drivesdk

Welcome to the C&C family.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Sat, Jun 9, 2018, 5:20 AM Languid Refiner via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am purchasing the 37R. It has been dry for five years now in a
> warehouse. There is a spot on the keel where it appears some lead is coming
> through. The previous owner is very knowledgeable and handy and recommends
> patching with some bondo, Any other opinions or suggestions?
>
> https://imgoat.com/uploads/45147dee72/115583.jpg
>
> https://imgoat.com/uploads/45147dee72/115584.jpg
>
> https://imgoat.com/uploads/45147dee72/115585.jpg
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 1989 37R Lead Keel Patching?

[Languid Refiner via CnC-List]

That's the ticket! Great stuff, thanks Josh!

On Sat, Jun 9, 2018 at 5:36 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I wouldn't use bondo.  He may have suggested that and used the word bondo
> colloquially.  I suggest using the products and techniques from the article
> in the link below.
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yV1JEN3YxQk1RbHc/
> view?usp=drivesdk
>
> Welcome to the C&C family.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Sat, Jun 9, 2018, 5:20 AM Languid Refiner via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I am purchasing the 37R. It has been dry for five years now in a
>> warehouse. There is a spot on the keel where it appears some lead is coming
>> through. The previous owner is very knowledgeable and handy and recommends
>> patching with some bondo, Any other opinions or suggestions?
>>
>> https://imgoat.com/uploads/45147dee72/115583.jpg
>>
>> https://imgoat.com/uploads/45147dee72/115584.jpg
>>
>> https://imgoat.com/uploads/45147dee72/115585.jpg
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Mainsheet cleat and jibes

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Just a thought…
If you could recreate the problem you might consider borrowing a similar block 
from a neighbor and trying it. If the problem disappears, a replacement block 
would solve it. If it does not, at least you eliminated a bad block/cleat 
possibility.

Marek

Sent from Mail for Windows 10


From: CnC-List  on behalf of David Knecht via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, June 8, 2018 9:31:07 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mainsheet cleat and jibes

The mainsheet is 7/16.  But I did not think it would pull out under shock load 
any more than under continuous tension.  The free end is not moving since the 
traveller was pinned in the middle.  Garhauer has no clue either so far.  The 
only thing I notice is that the block tilts as the tension comes off as the 
boom reaches the midline and then it snaps up again as the boom hits the other 
side.  It is that shock load at the end that pops it out of the cam.  Dave

On Jun 4, 2018, at 12:00 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

David,

I had a Garhauer triple with cam on my 35/3.  Traveller is on the companionway. 
 I used a 7/16 sheet and don't recall any trouble, but the cam block was on the 
bottom and the line could not fall out.
Could the sheet be catching on something or someone or is the sheet is too 
small?

Joel

On Mon, Jun 4, 2018 at 9:30 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I had a problem for the last two seasons with my main sheet handling system.  I 
have a double ended system, with a 5:1 on the traveler with a Garhauet triple 
block with cam cleat  then led forward to the mast and back to a winch on the 
cabin roof.  The advantage is that I can quickly adjust in lighter airs with 
the traveller system and winch the main in heavy airs at the other end.  It 
works fine except I had a problem that many times (not always) when I jibe, the 
main sheet pulled out of the cleat on the triple and the line ran out until it 
hit the stop knot.  It happens so fast that I really could not see why this was 
causing this.  It would happen even when the traveller car was stopped on both 
sides and there was loss of tension on the sheet prior to the jibe.  The only 
thing I could see that might be an issue is that the block has the cam cleat on 
the underside so perhaps it was “falling out” of the cam during the jibe.  We 
tried to make sure the sheet was not dangling down into the cabin, but it still 
seemed to happen.  As a last resort, I ordered a triple from Garhauer with the 
cam on the upper side and installed it recently.  I was in a race yesterday in 
heavy air, and it happened again with the new version of the block and cleat.  
Does anyone have any insights on what is causing this and how to stop it?  
Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT




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--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Dr. David Knecht
Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
University of Connecticut
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
Storrs, CT 06269-3125



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Re: Stus-List Mainsheet cleat and jibes

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

The reason that I don’t think it is a defective block/cleat is that it happened 
with two different Garhauer triple blocks, one with the cam upright and one 
with the cam upside down.  It has only happened once so far with the new one, 
but I don’t really want to have to worry about it happening again.  From what I 
have been reading from the list and elsewhere, my boom was probably farther off 
center than optimal for a heavy weather jibe on the most recent event, so I 
intend to be more careful in the future about how far I sheet it in prior to 
the turn.  Dave  
PS- I will be selling one of the Garhauer’s (triple with becket and cam) once I 
sort this out if anyone is interested.  I would offer it to the list first.

> On Jun 9, 2018, at 11:11 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Just a thought…
> If you could recreate the problem you might consider borrowing a similar 
> block from a neighbor and trying it. If the problem disappears, a replacement 
> block would solve it. If it does not, at least you eliminated a bad 
> block/cleat possibility.
>  
> Marek
>  

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List mainsheet set-up

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Chuck, I took a video for ya.

https://youtu.be/VNUGnNAGsDo

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Fri, Jun 8, 2018, 12:34 PM Chuck Borge via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Josh,
> That’s a cool setup.
> I may steal elements of that and as Mike noted, I can always trim main on
> the primaries.
> Not having a rats nest on the cockpit floor is a benefit. And mark
> roundings are easier with the 2:1, at least until we get to the last 20% or
> so.
> Next project will be making the traveler easier to adjust from the helm as
> well.
> It may be as simple as flopping the fiddle blocks.
> I’ll take some pix this weekend for input.
> Thanks,
> Chuck
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 8, 2018, at 10:41 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Chuck
>
>
>
> I have seen your setup on a C&C 115.  The 115 typically has the main sheet
> on either side go directly from traveler to aft winches but on the 115 I
> mentioned it went along boom to mast and then down and back.
>
>
>
> With your current setup could you not use the primaries for the main sheet
> when you wish to use the secondaries (aft winches) for your jib?
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax, NS
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Chuck Borge via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, June 08, 2018 11:07 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Chuck Borge
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List mainsheet set-up
>
>
>
> Josh,
>
> Thanks for jumping in.
>
> 
> For reference, it looks like this diagram.
>
> The traveler is on the bridge deck. The problem is the purchase. I might
> add a triple at the top and move the double to the bottom. That will give
> me 3:1 instead. But it doesn’t solve my wanting to trim the jib on the aft
> winches.
>
> Before I go buy a more traditional cascading set up like the Ronstan
> RP72900 4:1/8:1, I want to think it out.
>
>
>
> Best,
>
> Chuck
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> On Jun 7, 2018, at 10:14 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Chuck,
>
>
>
> Any chance you have some pictures?  I tried google and sailboatdata but
> can't tell if your boat has a cabin top traveler or a cockpit traveler?
>
>
>
> Just for clarity, are you having trouble trimming the traveler or the
> mainsheet?
>
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C&C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 7, 2018, 9:54 PM Chuck Borge via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Listers,
>
>
>
> Anyone with a C&C 41 have suggestions on a mainsheet set-up?
>
> My new-to-me boat has a "German" mainsheet set-up that runs to the runner
> winches.  It's supposed to be the hot set-up but I'm not impressed.
>
> Since I'm using a 97% r/f jib, I find tacking that alone using the runner
> winches to be pretty easy, but what to do with the main?   Also the 2:1
> nature of the German set-up is not really that easy to trim, even with the
> winches.
>
> I'm thinking I'd like a 4:1/8:1 more traditional set-up or a reasonable
> suggestion(?).
>
> Thanks in advance for the help.
>
>
>
> *Chuck Borge*
>
> *C&C 41 Tenacious*
>
> *(formerly C&C 34 Elusive)*
>
> *Somerset, MA*
>
> *508-642-3557*
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List mainsheet set-up

[Chuck Borge via CnC-List]

Thanks Josh, that was really helpful.
I'm going to play around with some (or all) of your ideas, for sure!

Cheers,
Chuck


*Chuck Borge*
*508-642-3557*

On Sat, Jun 9, 2018 at 2:25 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Chuck, I took a video for ya.
>
> https://youtu.be/VNUGnNAGsDo
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jun 8, 2018, 12:34 PM Chuck Borge via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Josh,
>> That’s a cool setup.
>> I may steal elements of that and as Mike noted, I can always trim main on
>> the primaries.
>> Not having a rats nest on the cockpit floor is a benefit. And mark
>> roundings are easier with the 2:1, at least until we get to the last 20% or
>> so.
>> Next project will be making the traveler easier to adjust from the helm
>> as well.
>> It may be as simple as flopping the fiddle blocks.
>> I’ll take some pix this weekend for input.
>> Thanks,
>> Chuck
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jun 8, 2018, at 10:41 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Chuck
>>
>>
>>
>> I have seen your setup on a C&C 115.  The 115 typically has the main
>> sheet on either side go directly from traveler to aft winches but on the
>> 115 I mentioned it went along boom to mast and then down and back.
>>
>>
>>
>> With your current setup could you not use the primaries for the main
>> sheet when you wish to use the secondaries (aft winches) for your jib?
>>
>>
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Persistence
>>
>> Halifax, NS
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
>> ] *On Behalf Of *Chuck Borge via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Friday, June 08, 2018 11:07 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Chuck Borge
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List mainsheet set-up
>>
>>
>>
>> Josh,
>>
>> Thanks for jumping in.
>>
>> 
>> For reference, it looks like this diagram.
>>
>> The traveler is on the bridge deck. The problem is the purchase. I might
>> add a triple at the top and move the double to the bottom. That will give
>> me 3:1 instead. But it doesn’t solve my wanting to trim the jib on the aft
>> winches.
>>
>> Before I go buy a more traditional cascading set up like the Ronstan
>> RP72900 4:1/8:1, I want to think it out.
>>
>>
>>
>> Best,
>>
>> Chuck
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>
>> On Jun 7, 2018, at 10:14 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Chuck,
>>
>>
>>
>> Any chance you have some pictures?  I tried google and sailboatdata but
>> can't tell if your boat has a cabin top traveler or a cockpit traveler?
>>
>>
>>
>> Just for clarity, are you having trouble trimming the traveler or the
>> mainsheet?
>>
>>
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>>
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>>
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jun 7, 2018, 9:54 PM Chuck Borge via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Listers,
>>
>>
>>
>> Anyone with a C&C 41 have suggestions on a mainsheet set-up?
>>
>> My new-to-me boat has a "German" mainsheet set-up that runs to the runner
>> winches.  It's supposed to be the hot set-up but I'm not impressed.
>>
>> Since I'm using a 97% r/f jib, I find tacking that alone using the runner
>> winches to be pretty easy, but what to do with the main?   Also the 2:1
>> nature of the German set-up is not really that easy to trim, even with the
>> winches.
>>
>> I'm thinking I'd like a 4:1/8:1 more traditional set-up or a reasonable
>> suggestion(?).
>>
>> Thanks in advance for the help.
>>
>>
>>
>> *Chuck Borge*
>>
>> *C&C 41 Tenacious*
>>
>> *(formerly C&C 34 Elusive)*
>>
>> *Somerset, MA*
>>
>> *508-642-3557*
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.

Re: Stus-List mainsheet set-up

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Dave,

The 3:1 portion IIRC is 80ish feet.  The part that runs along the boom and
deck is always there so as a purchase system it doesn't add to the birds
nest.  The 50 extra feet ensure that I can let the boom out nearly
perpendicular to the mast.  My boom attachment is roughly at 10' so some
trigonometry tells me the traveler to boom distance on the same plane is
14'.  Add the boom height and multiply by 3 (for the 3:1)

As for the offset becket fiddle block.  It is actual supposed to be a
standard fiddle with cam cleat.  I removed the cam cleat and installed a
bolt and brass bushing in it's place.  I'm told that Garhauer will make all
types of custom stuff but this was an easy off the shelf option.  No, none
of the blocks are OEM or even from the PO.  Everything is from Garhauer.  I
was on a kick for a little while.  They make good stuff but I'm not dead
set on it.  The availability of comparably priced stuff at the West Marine
around the corner is hard to beat.

Here a link to the "offset becket fiddle block"
https://www.garhauerstore.com/blocks/fiddle-blocks-71/fiddle-blocks-with-cam-cleat-and-shackle/fiddle-block-with-cam-cleat-and-shackle-30-05-uag.html

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD





On Fri, Jun 8, 2018, 3:51 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Josh- How long does the mainsheet need to be for this setup with
> coarse, fine and winch?  Are all those stock blocks?  I am not sure what
> you would call the double fiddle with the offset becket.  Dave
>
> On Jun 8, 2018, at 10:37 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> My boat came setup from the PO with a cabin top mainsheet control to a
> cabin top winch.  It was painfully under powered even with the winch.  My
> traveler is located in the cockpit on the aft edge of the forward bench.  I
> had previously, on other boats, only ever used a 4:1 mainsheet which was
> trimmed at the traveler.  A convenient setup for tacking with a limited
> crew or singlehanded.
>
> The PO had tried a 6:1 or 8:1 trimmed at the traveler but justifiably
> complained that there was too much extra line to be tripped on and tangled
> in the cockpit or thrown below in the cabin.
>
> I had seen the stacked fiddle block setup that makes 3:1/6:1 or 4:1/8:1.
> While innovative, I decided that the bulk of the line would still be under
> foot in the cockpit 95% of the time.
>
> I ended up designing a cascading system which gives me a 12:1 "tweaker"
> which is readily available in the cockpit and a 3:1 which runs to the cabin
> top winch for the deep down wind runs.  TBH the tweaker and the traveler
> together usually give enough range for all but the deepest down wind runs.
> Even though the 3:1 is terminated at a winch it is extremely rare that we
> need to use it since the traveler and tweaker are available to make up for
> that which the 3:1 cannot.
>
> Based in your picture it appears that my setup may be useful on your
> boat.  Basically you would eliminate either the port or starboard control
> which you currently have.  Install a 4:1 or 6:1 fiddle block between boom
> and traveler, and have the free end now terminate with a cam cleat at the
> traveler side.  With no other purchase changes it looks like a 4:1 could be
> arranged to produce 5:1 compounded with the existing 2:1 and you would have
> 10:1.  With the compromise of more line on the deck you could push it to
> 12:1 or 14:1 with the application of a 6:1 instead.  Here is a link to some
> pictures of my setup.  If you need more description or better pictures just
> let me know.
>
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yY3Qtbi1VSllwM3M
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jun 8, 2018, 10:07 AM Chuck Borge via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Josh,
>> Thanks for jumping in.
>> [image: image1.gif]
>> For reference, it looks like this diagram.
>> The traveler is on the bridge deck. The problem is the purchase. I might
>> add a triple at the top and move the double to the bottom. That will give
>> me 3:1 instead. But it doesn’t solve my wanting to trim the jib on the aft
>> winches.
>> Before I go buy a more traditional cascading set up like the Ronstan
>> RP72900 4:1/8:1, I want to think it out.
>>
>> Best,
>> Chuck
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jun 7, 2018, at 10:14 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Chuck,
>>
>> Any chance you have some pictures?  I tried google and sailboatdata but
>> can't tell if your boat has a cabin top traveler or a cockpit traveler?
>>
>> Just for clarity, are you having trouble trimming the traveler or the
>> mainsheet?
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>> On Thu, Jun 7, 2018, 9:54 PM Chuck Borge via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Listers,
>>>
>>> Anyone with a C&C 41 have suggestions on a mainsheet set-up?
>>> My new-to-me boat has a "German" ma

Stus-List Battery monitor shunt location

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

I recently purchased a Victron battery monitor and am wondering where others, 
particularly 36' owners, have mounted their battery monitor shunts, if they 
have one?

Many thanks,

Brad Crawford
"Dora Pearl"
C&C 36
Seattle


Sent from my iPad

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Re: Stus-List 1989 37R Lead Keel Patching?

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

This looks a lot like my keel.  I had an area, near the forward most keel bolt, 
where rusty water would ‘ooze’ out of the keel.  This area had been filled with 
some kind of material.  We drilled out the affected area, flushed it out and 
dried it with a hot air gun.  The hole was again filled.  It helped but I do 
see evidence that the problem has not been fixed.

 

This spring I noticed a blister in the lead at the bottom of the second keel 
bolt.  We drilled a hole into the blister at the bottom of keel bolt and 
another about 8” above it.  What appeared to be fresh water came out the bottom 
hole but nothing out the top.  The holes did not seem to be connected.  It 
seemed the water came from the bilge (under the mast step) and worked its’ way 
down the bolt.  I had a whole bunch of suggested fixes from recasting the keel 
to filling the affected area before launch and drilling it out at the end of 
each season to allow drainage.

 

I ended up threading the lower hole to take a 1/8” NPT fitting and evacuating 
the hole.  I then put strips of zinc into the hole and plugging it with a 
stainless steel plug.  Lead and stainless steel are pretty close in the anode 
table but the zinc can’t hurt.  Next fall, I’ll remove the plug and let the 
keel drain.  Freezing water will only enlarge the voids.  I also plan to dump 
anti-freeze into the bilge above the affected area and to apply the same ‘fix’ 
to the forward most keel bolt.  

 

There has always been a blister at the bottom of my fourth bolt.  It doesn’t 
seem to be getting any bigger bit I keep an eye on it.  

 

My thoughts are that although there may be a good seal that keeps salt water 
out of the bilge, there is a migration path for water around the keel bolt 
nuts/washers along the bolt.  You may be experiencing this and while ‘bondo’ 
may hide it, the problem may still exist.

 

Good luck on your 37R,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Languid 
Refiner via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, June 9, 2018 5:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Languid Refiner
Subject: Stus-List 1989 37R Lead Keel Patching?

 

I am purchasing the 37R. It has been dry for five years now in a warehouse. 
There is a spot on the keel where it appears some lead is coming through. The 
previous owner is very knowledgeable and handy and recommends patching with 
some bondo, Any other opinions or suggestions? 

 

https://imgoat.com/uploads/45147dee72/115583.jpg

 

https://imgoat.com/uploads/45147dee72/115584.jpg

 

https://imgoat.com/uploads/45147dee72/115585.jpg

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Re: Stus-List Battery monitor shunt location

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The shunt should always be installed on the ground as near to the battery
terminal as possible.  NO OTHER connections should be attached to the
terminal.  ALL LOADS need to be attached to shunt (the side of the shunt
that is not attached to the battery terminal).  All this being said, there
is no good reason not to have the shunt in the battery compartment and even
on/attached to the battery.  Keeping it there ensures future installations
don't inadvertently get attached directly to the battery terminal.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Sat, Jun 9, 2018, 6:28 PM Brad Crawford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I recently purchased a Victron battery monitor and am wondering where
> others, particularly 36' owners, have mounted their battery monitor shunts,
> if they have one?
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Brad Crawford
> "Dora Pearl"
> C&C 36
> Seattle
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
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>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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