Re: Stus-List Diesel Tank Cleaning

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Thanks Joe and Bruce.  

 

Bought some of the Starbrite Star Tron Fuel Tank Cleaner and finally had a 
chance to get to the boat yesterday.  Was able to remove the self tapping 
screws with a square drive [Robertson?] bit fairly easily.  Surprisingly the 
interior of the tank appeared clean though in the remaining fuel there were 
some cloudy “blobs” floating and some other sediment at the bottom, as well as 
some hard bits.  Used the manual pump to remove some of the cloudy / sediment 
but to get it all would have required removing all of the fuel and the Star 
Tron cleaner needs the fuel to work over a minimum of 24 hours.  Will see what 
it has done later today.  May end up removing all the fuel to wipe out remain 
sediment, etc. though would prefer not to.   

 

The hard bits at the bottom of the tank appear to have come from the cork 
gasket on the underside of the inspection plate cover.  The exposed edge [to 
the tank interior] of the cork had hardened, probably from contact with fuel 
over the years, and broke off fairly easily.  Tried to clean off any remaining 
hard edges of the cork gasket and will see if I can pump out the larger pieces. 
 

 

The Racor has some crud in the sight glass which I will drain out but am 
thinking will stay with the same 10 micron filter for a few hours [the filter 
was new mid August, looked clean at the end of Sept, and the engine ran without 
issue for 10 hrs after that before being winterized] and see how much more crud 
collects after running the engine for 10 hours or so this spring and then 
change it.  The Star Tron instruction say to expect to change the filters 
several times.  

 

The tank manufacturer said they used “Never seize” on the threaded pickup and 
return fittings and it appears the self tapping screws also had that.  Any 
recommendations for what type of Never Seize?  There appear to be many 
varieties with various metallic additives.  It is an aluminum tank and do not 
want to create a new problem with the wrong thing.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bwhitmore 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2018 12:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bwhitmore 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel Tank Cleaning

 

I had some luck with diesel fuel tank cleaner made by starbrite.  I would also 
run a small 12v pump on the far side of the racor, recirculating the fuel back 
to the tank.  I found a pretty cheap one online.  Of course, the larger/faster 
the pump, the more stuff it *may* suck up off the bottom.  

 

When I say I had some success, it is only because it is hard to quantify.  Our 
new to us boat had been on the dock for a long time (less than about 50 hours 
over a 6 year period).  We we picking up small granular crud in the bottom of 
the filter bowl.  After recirculating the fuel for 10 hours total time  after 
adding the cleaner, it seemed to stop collecting crud.  We then motored a total 
of 24 hours with no engine issues.  A year later with about 75 new hours on the 
engine I picked up a slight rough running just above idle.  I swapped out the 
filter and it was back to running fine.  We have shaken up the tank a few times 
as well.

 

That said, I say some success as I have no way of saying just how much crud was 
in my tank to begin with.  The reviewson the Starbrite product are very high, 
however.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Bruce Whitmore 

1994 37/40+

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

 Original message 

From: Nauset Beach via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Date: 4/23/18 12:23 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Nauset Beach mailto:nausetbe...@optonline.net> 
> 

Subject: Stus-List Diesel Tank Cleaning 

All, 

Last year my engine shut down 2 times and have concluded I need to clean out 
the diesel tank.  I had very old fuel [3+ years] in the tank after several 
years of very low usage and topping up the tank prior to winter storage which 
was the cause of the 1st shut down.  Most of that fuel was removed, but had a 
2nd shutdown which am assuming was due to “crud” blocking the pickup.  The 
Racor was completely blocked the 1st time, but was completely clear the 2nd 
time, and the engine started right up after being off for 12 hours.  Do not 
think fuel polishing alone would be sufficient.  The tank is 20 yo.  

I know tank cleaning has come up on the list in past years and recall some 
steam cleaned &/or pressure washed the tank interior.  I do not want to 
introduce water into the tank – do not have sufficient time to drain and dry 
the tank adequately prior to launch.  Nor the ability to readily do that.  

Have read people used clean diesel as a “solvent” to clean the interior but am 
wondering if that would really be sufficient.  Have also read of using MEK to 
break down / dissolve deposits in the tank.  At this point there is about 5 gal 
of diesel in a 20 gal tank, a portion of

Re: Stus-List Diesel Tank Cleaning

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I used Yellow Teflon tape for my threaded pipe fittings.

As for the fasteners, I would consider using a very light coating of
tef-gel.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Thu, May 3, 2018, 5:32 AM Nauset Beach via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks Joe and Bruce.
>
>
>
> Bought some of the Starbrite Star Tron Fuel Tank Cleaner and finally had a
> chance to get to the boat yesterday.  Was able to remove the self tapping
> screws with a square drive [Robertson?] bit fairly easily.  Surprisingly
> the interior of the tank appeared clean though in the remaining fuel there
> were some cloudy “blobs” floating and some other sediment at the bottom, as
> well as some hard bits.  Used the manual pump to remove some of the cloudy
> / sediment but to get it all would have required removing all of the fuel
> and the Star Tron cleaner needs the fuel to work over a minimum of 24
> hours.  Will see what it has done later today.  May end up removing all the
> fuel to wipe out remain sediment, etc. though would prefer not to.
>
>
>
> The hard bits at the bottom of the tank appear to have come from the cork
> gasket on the underside of the inspection plate cover.  The exposed edge
> [to the tank interior] of the cork had hardened, probably from contact with
> fuel over the years, and broke off fairly easily.  Tried to clean off any
> remaining hard edges of the cork gasket and will see if I can pump out the
> larger pieces.
>
>
>
> The Racor has some crud in the sight glass which I will drain out but am
> thinking will stay with the same 10 micron filter for a few hours [the
> filter was new mid August, looked clean at the end of Sept, and the engine
> ran without issue for 10 hrs after that before being winterized] and see
> how much more crud collects after running the engine for 10 hours or so
> this spring and then change it.  The Star Tron instruction say to expect to
> change the filters several times.
>
>
>
> The tank manufacturer said they used “Never seize” on the threaded pickup
> and return fittings and it appears the self tapping screws also had that.
> Any recommendations for what type of Never Seize?  There appear to be many
> varieties with various metallic additives.  It is an aluminum tank and do
> not want to create a new problem with the wrong thing.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *bwhitmore
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, April 23, 2018 12:53 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* bwhitmore 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Diesel Tank Cleaning
>
>
>
> I had some luck with diesel fuel tank cleaner made by starbrite.  I would
> also run a small 12v pump on the far side of the racor, recirculating the
> fuel back to the tank.  I found a pretty cheap one online.  Of course, the
> larger/faster the pump, the more stuff it *may* suck up off the bottom.
>
>
>
> When I say I had some success, it is only because it is hard to quantify.
> Our new to us boat had been on the dock for a long time (less than about 50
> hours over a 6 year period).  We we picking up small granular crud in the
> bottom of the filter bowl.  After recirculating the fuel for 10 hours total
> time  after adding the cleaner, it seemed to stop collecting crud.  We then
> motored a total of 24 hours with no engine issues.  A year later with about
> 75 new hours on the engine I picked up a slight rough running just above
> idle.  I swapped out the filter and it was back to running fine.  We have
> shaken up the tank a few times as well.
>
>
>
> That said, I say some success as I have no way of saying just how much
> crud was in my tank to begin with.  The reviewson the Starbrite product are
> very high, however.
>
>
>
> Hope this helps,
>
>
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> 1994 37/40+
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>
>
>  Original message 
>
> From: Nauset Beach via CnC-List 
>
> Date: 4/23/18 12:23 PM (GMT-05:00)
>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> Cc: Nauset Beach 
>
> Subject: Stus-List Diesel Tank Cleaning
>
> All,
>
> Last year my engine shut down 2 times and have concluded I need to clean
> out the diesel tank.  I had very old fuel [3+ years] in the tank after
> several years of very low usage and topping up the tank prior to winter
> storage which was the cause of the 1st shut down.  Most of that fuel was
> removed, but had a 2nd shutdown which am assuming was due to “crud”
> blocking the pickup.  The Racor was completely blocked the 1st time, but
> was completely clear the 2nd time, and the engine started right up after
> being off for 12 hours.  Do not think fuel polishing alone would be
> sufficient.  The tank is 20 yo.
>
> I know tank cleaning has come up on the list in past years and recall some
> steam cleaned &/or pressure washed the tank interior.  I do not want to
> introduce water into the tank – do not have sufficient time to drain and
> dry the tank adequately prior to launch.  Nor t

Re: Stus-List Stripped threads question

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I second the river idea.  Quick, easy and cheap and no dissimilar metals.
Bruce 1994 C&C 37/40+


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
 Date: 5/2/18  11:30 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford"  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Stripped threads question 



Thanks, Josh.  With seven exit plates, each with four mounting holes, 
I can think of 28 reasons to not drill and tap each hole.
 
The original exit plates had six holes each (as opposed to the current 
four), all of which were filled with aluminum screws (held in place with epoxy) 
that were ground off at the surface before the mast was repainted six or seven 
years ago.  I have no interest in undertaking that sort of job, which I 
believe to be unnecessary.
 
Backing nuts would be too difficult to hold in place to screw into given 
the relatively small opening of the exit plate.  Not practical.   

 
I kind of like your rivet idea, and I forgot about JB Weld.  Any other 
thoughts out there?


 

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2018 9:23 PM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stripped threads question
 

I forgot to mention that when I had my mast rebuilt the boatyard welded all 
of the old vestigial holes closed before painting.  Of course you're 
probably not even considering something to this extent. 
 
Josh
 

On Wed, May 2, 2018, 9:20 PM Josh Muckley  wrote:


  You can rivet them.  Mine are.  Aluminum rivets won't corrode 
  the mast. 
   
  There really isn't a good reason not to go up to a #12 machine 
  screw.
   
  Of course there are epoxy materials such as JB weld in liquid or in a 
  stick.  I'm not sure that they would produce a lasting repair. 
   
  What about backing nuts?
   
  Ever heard of riv-nuts?  They go in like rivets but are threaded for 
  a machine screw fastener.
   
  Josh Muckley
  S/V Sea Hawk
  1989 C&C 37+
  Solomons, MD
   
  
  On Wed, May 2, 2018, 9:12 PM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
   wrote:

  




Listers:

 

    
Currently doing some mast work and needed to remove and reinstall a couple 
stainless steel exit plates.  The plates are held in place with four 
stainless machine bolts (10-24 or thereabouts), which screw into threaded 
holes in the aluminum mast.  I discovered that the threads were 
stripped in several of the holes – probably due to dissimilar metals.  
Aside from drilling and tapping new or larger holes (which I prefer to not 
do), is there some other way to reconstitute the threads to hold the screws 
in place.  Strength is not really an issue.  I was thinking about 
coating the screws in epoxy or something, but I figured someone on the list 
may know some other trick.  Thanks in advance.

 

 
    
Matt Wolford

    
C&C 42 Custom

 

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supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is 
greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send 
contribution --   
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Re: Stus-List Parallel Batteries

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

If you are looking to replace your batteries these may be of interest.

http://fireflyenergy.com/

I looked at them a few years ago and would have gone that way except I found
a deal on Johnson Controls AGM group 31s, $160 CND instead of $400.

The technology is not a gimmick, the research was done by Caterpillar to find
a better product for their needs. Possible weeks of non-use, high cranking amps
particularly in cold weather and the ability to recover from a deep discharge.
The pricing is in line with Rolls or Lifeline AGM offerings.

https://www.bruceschwab.com/advanced-energy-storage-systems/firefly-energys-oasis-group-31/

https://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/Can-Carbon-Foam-Batteries-Meet-Hype-11694-1.html


There are quite a few positive reviews and installation blogs on the internet. 
I have not
seen anything negative or reporting a fault but the technology has only been in 
common
use for about 10 years.

https://www.panbo.com/gizmos-new-firefly-battery-bank-working-out-the-details/

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1


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Re: Stus-List Parallel Batteries

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

My issue with the Firefly batteries is they are hard to find.
Apparently supply is not keeping up  with demand.
Also note I got a lithium battery jump starter that is about the size of two 
decks of playing cards that will start a cold-soaked car with a dead battery.
Worth having if you are worried about getting stuck with dead batteries.

Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
Brown via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2018 7:07 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Brown
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Parallel Batteries

If you are looking to replace your batteries these may be of interest.

http://fireflyenergy.com/

I looked at them a few years ago and would have gone that way except I found
a deal on Johnson Controls AGM group 31s, $160 CND instead of $400.

The technology is not a gimmick, the research was done by Caterpillar to find
a better product for their needs. Possible weeks of non-use, high cranking amps
particularly in cold weather and the ability to recover from a deep discharge.
The pricing is in line with Rolls or Lifeline AGM offerings.

https://www.bruceschwab.com/advanced-energy-storage-systems/firefly-energys-oasis-group-31/

https://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/Can-Carbon-Foam-Batteries-Meet-Hype-11694-1.html


There are quite a few positive reviews and installation blogs on the internet. 
I have not
seen anything negative or reporting a fault but the technology has only been in 
common
use for about 10 years.

https://www.panbo.com/gizmos-new-firefly-battery-bank-working-out-the-details/

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List LED Indirect Cabin Lighting

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

A week, or so, ago I promised to take some pictures of my LED Indirect
lighting on Kaylarah.  Now, I forget who I promised the pictures to.  The
lighting is made with inexpensive (weatherproof) LED strips tuck underneath
the cabinets (and other cool places).  You can see pictures here
.
The nice thing about the remote is it can control multiple LED strips and
require no wiring.  They are just stuck on the wall with Velcro (so they
can easily be remove to change the batteries).

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Stripped threads question

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

I believe the rivet idea is the best approach for your situation. You 
aren't going to disassemble these every other year, right?


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 08:30 PM 5/2/2018, you wrote:
Thanks, Josh.  With seven exit plates, each with four mounting 
holes, I can think of 28 reasons to not drill and tap each hole.


The original exit plates had six holes each (as opposed to the 
current four), all of which were filled with aluminum screws (held 
in place with epoxy) that were ground off at the surface before the 
mast was repainted six or seven years ago.  I have no interest in 
undertaking that sort of job, which I believe to be unnecessary.


Backing nuts would be too difficult to hold in place to screw into 
given the relatively small opening of the exit plate.  Not practical.


I kind of like your rivet idea, and I forgot about JB Weld.  Any 
other thoughts out there?





---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Stripped threads question

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

The mast is down this spring to replace the damaged roller furler.  While it is 
down, I decided to re-run the internal halyards due to concern about placement 
fore and aft of the internal spreader supports (long story).  I needed to 
remove some of the exit plates to retrieve fish tape.  The halyards are now 
where they are supposed to be, and the mast will go back up after the new 
furler is installed next week.  I don’t anticipate lowering the mast again for 
several years.

If I decide to use rivets and need to remove an exit plate down the road, will 
it be difficult to do so?

From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2018 8:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Russ & Melody 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stripped threads question



I believe the rivet idea is the best approach for your situation. You aren't 
going to disassemble these every other year, right?

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 08:30 PM 5/2/2018, you wrote:

  Thanks, Josh.  With seven exit plates, each with four mounting holes, I can 
think of 28 reasons to not drill and tap each hole.
   
  The original exit plates had six holes each (as opposed to the current four), 
all of which were filled with aluminum screws (held in place with epoxy) that 
were ground off at the surface before the mast was repainted six or seven years 
ago.  I have no interest in undertaking that sort of job, which I believe to be 
unnecessary.
   
  Backing nuts would be too difficult to hold in place to screw into given the 
relatively small opening of the exit plate.  Not practical.   
   
  I kind of like your rivet idea, and I forgot about JB Weld.  Any other 
thoughts out there?
   

 Virus-free. www.avg.com  




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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List LED Indirect Cabin Lighting

[David via CnC-List]

Gary,


It wasn't me but what brand were those again?


Thanks.


David F. Risch

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650



From: CnC-List  on behalf of Gary Russell via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, May 3, 2018 8:34 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Stus-List LED Indirect Cabin Lighting

A week, or so, ago I promised to take some pictures of my LED Indirect lighting 
on Kaylarah.  Now, I forget who I promised the pictures to.  The lighting is 
made with inexpensive (weatherproof) LED strips tuck underneath the cabinets 
(and other cool places).  You can see pictures 
here.
  The nice thing about the remote is it can control multiple LED strips and 
require no wiring.  They are just stuck on the wall with Velcro (so they can 
easily be remove to change the batteries).

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Stripped threads question

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Nope, just drill them out with whatever size hole the rivet is.

 

Also good time to upgrade to LED lighting, and other top of mast stuff.

That is what I am also currently doing -  ;)

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2018 9:01 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stripped threads question

 

The mast is down this spring to replace the damaged roller furler.  While it is 
down, I decided to re-run the internal halyards due to concern about placement 
fore and aft of the internal spreader supports (long story).  I needed to 
remove some of the exit plates to retrieve fish tape.  The halyards are now 
where they are supposed to be, and the mast will go back up after the new 
furler is installed next week.  I don’t anticipate lowering the mast again for 
several years.

 

If I decide to use rivets and need to remove an exit plate down the road, will 
it be difficult to do so?

 

From: Russ   & Melody via CnC-List 

Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2018 8:47 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: Russ   & Melody 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Stripped threads question

 



I believe the rivet idea is the best approach for your situation. You aren't 
going to disassemble these every other year, right?

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 08:30 PM 5/2/2018, you wrote:



Thanks, Josh.  With seven exit plates, each with four mounting holes, I can 
think of 28 reasons to not drill and tap each hole.
 
The original exit plates had six holes each (as opposed to the current four), 
all of which were filled with aluminum screws (held in place with epoxy) that 
were ground off at the surface before the mast was repainted six or seven years 
ago.  I have no interest in undertaking that sort of job, which I believe to be 
unnecessary.
 
Backing nuts would be too difficult to hold in place to screw into given the 
relatively small opening of the exit plate.  Not practical.   
 
I kind of like your rivet idea, and I forgot about JB Weld.  Any other thoughts 
out there?
 

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

  _  

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List LED Indirect Cabin Lighting

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi David,
 I got the led strips here

.
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Thu, May 3, 2018 at 9:11 AM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Gary,
>
>
> It wasn't me but what brand were those again?
>
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> *David F. Risch*
>
> *Gulf Stream Associates, LLC*
>
> *(401) 419-4650 *
>
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Gary
> Russell via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 3, 2018 8:34 AM
> *To:* C&C List
> *Cc:* Gary Russell
> *Subject:* Stus-List LED Indirect Cabin Lighting
>
> A week, or so, ago I promised to take some pictures of my LED Indirect
> lighting on Kaylarah.  Now, I forget who I promised the pictures to.  The
> lighting is made with inexpensive (weatherproof) LED strips tuck underneath
> the cabinets (and other cool places).  You can see pictures here
> .
> The nice thing about the remote is it can control multiple LED strips and
> require no wiring.  They are just stuck on the wall with Velcro (so they
> can easily be remove to change the batteries).
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C&C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Stripped threads question

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Rivets are fairly easy to remove, particularly aluminum ones.  Just drill
the flange off and punch them through the mast.

I used rivets quite frequently to attach things to masts.  For exit plates,
aluminum rivets should work fine.

Larger stainless rivets are a different story.  Most folks don't have the
big rivet tool required to install them.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, May 3, 2018 at 8:00 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> If I decide to use rivets and need to remove an exit plate down the road,
> will it be difficult to do so?
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Parallel Batteries

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Great idea to keep a Lithium battery pack for jump starting an engine in 
emergency. However, keep in mind that they are not created equal. And 
unfortunately, the cheap ones are … cheap.

Expect to pay at least $100 ($80 USD) for a reasonable one and double that for 
a goo done.

In short - do some research before you buy.

Marek
Ottawa, ON

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 3, 2018 08:05
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Parallel Batteries

My issue with the Firefly batteries is they are hard to find.
Apparently supply is not keeping up  with demand.
Also note I got a lithium battery jump starter that is about the size of two 
decks of playing cards that will start a cold-soaked car with a dead battery.
Worth having if you are worried about getting stuck with dead batteries.

Joe
Coquina
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Re: Stus-List Stripped threads question

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Already LED-compliant.  Did that the last time (when LED prices were much 
higher).

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2018 9:17 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stripped threads question

Nope, just drill them out with whatever size hole the rivet is.

 

Also good time to upgrade to LED lighting, and other top of mast stuff.

That is what I am also currently doing -  ;)

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2018 9:01 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stripped threads question

 

The mast is down this spring to replace the damaged roller furler.  While it is 
down, I decided to re-run the internal halyards due to concern about placement 
fore and aft of the internal spreader supports (long story).  I needed to 
remove some of the exit plates to retrieve fish tape.  The halyards are now 
where they are supposed to be, and the mast will go back up after the new 
furler is installed next week.  I don’t anticipate lowering the mast again for 
several years.

 

If I decide to use rivets and need to remove an exit plate down the road, will 
it be difficult to do so?

 

From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List 

Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2018 8:47 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: Russ & Melody 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Stripped threads question

 



I believe the rivet idea is the best approach for your situation. You aren't 
going to disassemble these every other year, right?

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 08:30 PM 5/2/2018, you wrote:



Thanks, Josh.  With seven exit plates, each with four mounting holes, I can 
think of 28 reasons to not drill and tap each hole.
 
The original exit plates had six holes each (as opposed to the current four), 
all of which were filled with aluminum screws (held in place with epoxy) that 
were ground off at the surface before the mast was repainted six or seven years 
ago.  I have no interest in undertaking that sort of job, which I believe to be 
unnecessary.
 
Backing nuts would be too difficult to hold in place to screw into given the 
relatively small opening of the exit plate.  Not practical.   
 
I kind of like your rivet idea, and I forgot about JB Weld.  Any other thoughts 
out there?
 

 


 Virus-free. www.avg.com 
 




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___

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Re: Stus-List Stripped threads question

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

The mast exit plates on my 38 are held in place with aluminum pop rivets. 
Should I need to remove them, I’d use a small drill to drill out the center 
pin… which would not damage the mast at all. Be sure to use TefGel or some 
other anticorrosion material to inhibit corrosion between the rivets and the  
steel plates.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 2, 2018 9:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
Subject: Stus-List Stripped threads question

 

Listers:

 

Currently doing some mast work and needed to remove and reinstall a couple 
stainless steel exit plates.  The plates are held in place with four stainless 
machine bolts (10-24 or thereabouts), which screw into threaded holes in the 
aluminum mast.  I discovered that the threads were stripped in several of the 
holes – probably due to dissimilar metals.  Aside from drilling and tapping new 
or larger holes (which I prefer to not do), is there some other way to 
reconstitute the threads to hold the screws in place.  Strength is not really 
an issue.  I was thinking about coating the screws in epoxy or something, but I 
figured someone on the list may know some other trick.  Thanks in advance.

 

 

Matt Wolford

C&C 42 Custom


 


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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MK II Bilge pumps

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Frank, 

 

It is possible that your Whale manual pump needs to be serviced… particularly 
if it has been unused for a long time. 

 

My 25 is a very dry boat and the Whale pump in the cockpit is the only bilge 
pump I have ever needed; every six months or so I need to pump out a gallon or 
two of water.

 

I was having the same problem you report – heck of a long time to get the air 
out of the suction hose. I bought a kit for the pump and replaced the seals, 
flappers, and diaphragm a few years ago. No more problem. Turns out the rubber 
parts were getting pretty still from age and – I presume – oxidation over the 
years.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Eric Frank 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 2, 2018 2:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Eric Frank 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MK II Bilge pumps

 

My CC 35 II (1974) also has a manual (Whale) bilge pump in the cockpit, and I 
notice that sometimes I have to pump very hard to suck the water from the bilge 
up to the pump so it starts pumping.  Presumably there is some leakage of water 
past the intake valve with just air in the system - at times it’s a real 
nuisance although I very rarely use the manual pump. So perhaps an electric 
pump in the bilge in series with the manual pump located quite a lot higher in 
the cockpit would be good for priming the manual pump, which would then not 
require the battery to keep pumping.  In Cats Paw, that is not the arrangement: 
two separate pump lines going to two separate thru-hulls.  But after reading 
this on-going discussion, I wonder if maybe some owners have implemented that 
arrangement.  It is comforting to know that it’s possible to go on pumping even 
if the battery has run down.

 

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA 

 

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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MK II Bilge pumps

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Hot button rant!

If any lister has an alloy (metal) body Whale or other brand manual bilge
pump, I *STRONGLY* suggest you disassemble it and inspect the sealing
surfaces.  These pumps, particularly when in salt or brackish water
service, are subject to corrosion and pitting.  If the corrosion is severe,
the pump may not prime or pump.

When I bought Touche', I inspected the pump and found it to be essentially
unusable due to severe pitting and corrosion on the sealing surfaces.  A
service kit would have been worthless.  I bought a new pump.  Before
installing the new pump, I disassembled it, coated the sealing surfaces
with TefGel and reassembled.

Kevin Benoit just bought a 35-2 and ran into the same issue.  He also
bought a new pump and coated the surfaces.

I clean Touche's bilge about twice a year.  I use the electric pump to
empty the bilge until the water is clean dock (city) water.  I then test
the manual bilge pump and use it to empty the bilge leaving clean dock
water in the pump.

If, for whatever reason, I use the manual pump to remove brackish or salt
water from the bilge, I flush the bilge with dock water and leave dock
water in the manual pump.

Please test your manual pump at least annually and inspect it if you've
never done so.  This pump may not only save your boat, it may save you and
your family!!

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



On Thu, May 3, 2018 at 10:47 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Frank,
>
>
>
> It is possible that your Whale manual pump needs to be serviced…
> particularly if it has been unused for a long time.
>
>
>
> My 25 is a very dry boat and the Whale pump in the cockpit is the only
> bilge pump I have ever needed; every six months or so I need to pump out a
> gallon or two of water.
>
>
>
> I was having the same problem you report – heck of a long time to get the
> air out of the suction hose. I bought a kit for the pump and replaced the
> seals, flappers, and diaphragm a few years ago. No more problem. Turns out
> the rubber parts were getting pretty still from age and – I presume –
> oxidation over the years.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MK II Bilge pumps

[Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List]

Dennis,

Honey has 2 of these same pumps. We dismantle and check them every year in
January. These pumps and tested with fresh water only and we still find the
corrosion issue mentioned below. They are coated and returned to the galley
and cockpit combing. Even with this program I have had to replace them
every 5 years since we purchased this boat in 1975.

This sucks since these pumps and not cheap..

Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald
HONEY
US12788 - Savannah
C&C 39TM (1974)
260 Oatland Island Road, Savannah, GA 31410 USA
Tel. no: 912 898.1069 - Fax no: 912 898.9458 - 24/7 mobile number: 912
441.2296
Email*: j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com


This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you


On Thu, May 3, 2018 at 12:08 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hot button rant!
>
> If any lister has an alloy (metal) body Whale or other brand manual bilge
> pump, I *STRONGLY* suggest you disassemble it and inspect the sealing
> surfaces.  These pumps, particularly when in salt or brackish water
> service, are subject to corrosion and pitting.  If the corrosion is severe,
> the pump may not prime or pump.
>
> When I bought Touche', I inspected the pump and found it to be essentially
> unusable due to severe pitting and corrosion on the sealing surfaces.  A
> service kit would have been worthless.  I bought a new pump.  Before
> installing the new pump, I disassembled it, coated the sealing surfaces
> with TefGel and reassembled.
>
> Kevin Benoit just bought a 35-2 and ran into the same issue.  He also
> bought a new pump and coated the surfaces.
>
> I clean Touche's bilge about twice a year.  I use the electric pump to
> empty the bilge until the water is clean dock (city) water.  I then test
> the manual bilge pump and use it to empty the bilge leaving clean dock
> water in the pump.
>
> If, for whatever reason, I use the manual pump to remove brackish or salt
> water from the bilge, I flush the bilge with dock water and leave dock
> water in the manual pump.
>
> Please test your manual pump at least annually and inspect it if you've
> never done so.  This pump may not only save your boat, it may save you and
> your family!!
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 3, 2018 at 10:47 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Frank,
>>
>>
>>
>> It is possible that your Whale manual pump needs to be serviced…
>> particularly if it has been unused for a long time.
>>
>>
>>
>> My 25 is a very dry boat and the Whale pump in the cockpit is the only
>> bilge pump I have ever needed; every six months or so I need to pump out a
>> gallon or two of water.
>>
>>
>>
>> I was having the same problem you report – heck of a long time to get the
>> air out of the suction hose. I bought a kit for the pump and replaced the
>> seals, flappers, and diaphragm a few years ago. No more problem. Turns out
>> the rubber parts were getting pretty still from age and – I presume –
>> oxidation over the years.
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick Brass
>>
>> Washington, NC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MK II Bilge pumps

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

We have Whale pumps for our holding tanks.  When they fail, it really
stinks!

Joel

On Thu, May 3, 2018 at 12:14 PM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis,
>
> Honey has 2 of these same pumps. We dismantle and check them every year in
> January. These pumps and tested with fresh water only and we still find the
> corrosion issue mentioned below. They are coated and returned to the galley
> and cockpit combing. Even with this program I have had to replace them
> every 5 years since we purchased this boat in 1975.
>
> This sucks since these pumps and not cheap..
>
> Best regards,
> Jack Fitzgerald
> HONEY
> US12788 - Savannah
> C&C 39TM (1974)
> 260 Oatland Island Road, Savannah, GA 31410 USA
> Tel. no: 912 898.1069 - Fax no: 912 898.9458 - 24/7 mobile number: 912
> 441.2296
> Email*: j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com
>
>
> This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
> Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
> privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
> that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
> communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
> have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you
>
>
> On Thu, May 3, 2018 at 12:08 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hot button rant!
>>
>> If any lister has an alloy (metal) body Whale or other brand manual bilge
>> pump, I *STRONGLY* suggest you disassemble it and inspect the sealing
>> surfaces.  These pumps, particularly when in salt or brackish water
>> service, are subject to corrosion and pitting.  If the corrosion is severe,
>> the pump may not prime or pump.
>>
>> When I bought Touche', I inspected the pump and found it to be
>> essentially unusable due to severe pitting and corrosion on the sealing
>> surfaces.  A service kit would have been worthless.  I bought a new pump.
>> Before installing the new pump, I disassembled it, coated the sealing
>> surfaces with TefGel and reassembled.
>>
>> Kevin Benoit just bought a 35-2 and ran into the same issue.  He also
>> bought a new pump and coated the surfaces.
>>
>> I clean Touche's bilge about twice a year.  I use the electric pump to
>> empty the bilge until the water is clean dock (city) water.  I then test
>> the manual bilge pump and use it to empty the bilge leaving clean dock
>> water in the pump.
>>
>> If, for whatever reason, I use the manual pump to remove brackish or salt
>> water from the bilge, I flush the bilge with dock water and leave dock
>> water in the manual pump.
>>
>> Please test your manual pump at least annually and inspect it if you've
>> never done so.  This pump may not only save your boat, it may save you and
>> your family!!
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 3, 2018 at 10:47 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Frank,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> It is possible that your Whale manual pump needs to be serviced…
>>> particularly if it has been unused for a long time.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> My 25 is a very dry boat and the Whale pump in the cockpit is the only
>>> bilge pump I have ever needed; every six months or so I need to pump out a
>>> gallon or two of water.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I was having the same problem you report – heck of a long time to get
>>> the air out of the suction hose. I bought a kit for the pump and replaced
>>> the seals, flappers, and diaphragm a few years ago. No more problem. Turns
>>> out the rubber parts were getting pretty still from age and – I presume –
>>> oxidation over the years.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Rick Brass
>>>
>>> Washington, NC
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Yanmar 2gmf

[Bev Parslow via CnC-List]

Seem to be loosing some fuel. The tank is good. There is no leak from the tank 
to the primary filter. It then goes to the engine. No leak there. Pardon my 
ignorance but there is a round attachment with a gasket on the top that seems 
to be leaking. There are some small  screws? bolts? holding it down. It seems 
to be oozing from there. Can I tighten them leaving everything together or do I 
need to take the mixing elbow off?Yanmar 2gmf.___

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2gmf

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Could that ‘attachment’ be the engine fuel filter? You said ‘primary’ filter, 
is that the first one on the tank side? Mine has a big plastic Racor about a 
foot from the tank and then it is routed to a fuel pump mounted on the engine 
then to a small filter near the top of the engine, then to the high pressure 
pump and to the injectors. Make sense?

 

Gary

2QM15

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Bev Parslow via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 3, 2018 12:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bev Parslow 
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar 2gmf

 

Seem to be loosing some fuel. The tank is good. There is no leak from the tank 
to the primary filter. It then goes to the engine. No leak there. Pardon my 
ignorance but there is a round attachment with a gasket on the top that seems 
to be leaking. There are some small  screws? bolts? holding it down. It seems 
to be oozing from there. Can I tighten them leaving everything together or do I 
need to take the mixing elbow off?

Yanmar 2gmf.

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2gmf

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Is it the fuel filter shown on page 83 of this:
https://www.yanmarshop.com/Media/Default/Documents/1GM-2GM(F)-3GM(F)-3HM(F)%20Owners%20Manual%20(2J020A1279).pdf

Joel

On Thu, May 3, 2018 at 12:31 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Could that ‘attachment’ be the engine fuel filter? You said ‘primary’
> filter, is that the first one on the tank side? Mine has a big plastic
> Racor about a foot from the tank and then it is routed to a fuel pump
> mounted on the engine then to a small filter near the top of the engine,
> then to the high pressure pump and to the injectors. Make sense?
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> 2QM15
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Bev
> Parslow via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 3, 2018 12:21 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Bev Parslow 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Yanmar 2gmf
>
>
>
> Seem to be loosing some fuel. The tank is good. There is no leak from the
> tank to the primary filter. It then goes to the engine. No leak there.
> Pardon my ignorance but there is a round attachment with a gasket on the
> top that seems to be leaking. There are some small  screws? bolts? holding
> it down. It seems to be oozing from there. Can I tighten them leaving
> everything together or do I need to take the mixing elbow off?
>
> Yanmar 2gmf.
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2gmf

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Send us a picture.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Thu, May 3, 2018, 12:21 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Seem to be loosing some fuel. The tank is good. There is no leak from the
> tank to the primary filter. It then goes to the engine. No leak there.
> Pardon my ignorance but there is a round attachment with a gasket on the
> top that seems to be leaking. There are some small  screws? bolts? holding
> it down. It seems to be oozing from there. Can I tighten them leaving
> everything together or do I need to take the mixing elbow off?
> Yanmar 2gmf.
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Keel treatment

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

To the group; I have removed all of the old bottom paint and some old faring 
compound from my keel and it is now down to bare lead; what should I use for a 
sealant/primer on the bare metal, before putting on a barrier coat, and what is 
the best method for application?  I have also taken the hull to gelcoat and 
plan to put on a barrier coat and new bottom paint...any other ideas...? Many 
thanks...

 

 


Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; on the hard...


Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Sent: Thu, May 3, 2018 1:33 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2gmf



Send us a picture.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD 


On Thu, May 3, 2018, 12:21 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List  
wrote:



Seem to be loosing some fuel. The tank is good. There is no leak from the tank 
to the primary filter. It then goes to the engine. No leak there. Pardon my 
ignorance but there is a round attachment with a gasket on the top that seems 
to be leaking. There are some small  screws? bolts? holding it down. It seems 
to be oozing from there. Can I tighten them leaving everything together or do I 
need to take the mixing elbow off?
Yanmar 2gmf.

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Keel treatment

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Richard,

I'm dealing with exactly the same issue, had the bottom soda blasted to 
bare lead and what's left of my gelcoat.  I called Interlux about this, 
their tech rep recommended Interprotect 2000E on both the hull and the 
lead.  For the lead he recommended thinning the first coat 15%-20% with 
their 2333N thinner so it will flow into the cracks, as some of my 
keel's a bit rough.  Then you can fair it and build it up with more 
barrier coat (the 2000E).


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 5/3/2018 5:11 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List wrote:
To the group; I have removed all of the old bottom paint and some old 
faring compound from my keel and it is now down to bare lead; what 
should I use for a sealant/primer on the bare metal, before putting on 
a barrier coat, and what is the best method for application?  I have 
also taken the hull to gelcoat and plan to put on a barrier coat and 
new bottom paint...any other ideas...? Many thanks...



Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; on the hard...

Richard N. Bush Law Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Sent: Thu, May 3, 2018 1:33 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2gmf

Send us a picture.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Thu, May 3, 2018, 12:21 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Seem to be loosing some fuel. The tank is good. There is no leak
from the tank to the primary filter. It then goes to the engine.
No leak there. Pardon my ignorance but there is a round attachment
with a gasket on the top that seems to be leaking. There are some
small  screws? bolts? holding it down. It seems to be oozing from
there. Can I tighten them leaving everything together or do I need
to take the mixing elbow off?
Yanmar 2gmf.
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Re: Stus-List Keel treatment

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Richard

A few years back when I fixed the C&C smile I took my keel down to the bare 
lead.  At that time I read some where that epoxy wouldn’t stick to the lead 
unless it was free of oxidation.  Hard to do with lead.  I also learned that 
the best way to apply the epoxy and get it to bond was to use a wire brush.  I 
put a wire brush on my drill and polished the lead and immediately applied the 
epoxy.  Once the base coat was on I just followed normal epoxy instructions.  
Did that probably 10 years ago and when I applied the bottom paint yesterday 
everything looked liked it did way back when.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On May 3, 2018, at 5:11 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> To the group; I have removed all of the old bottom paint and some old faring 
> compound from my keel and it is now down to bare lead; what should I use for 
> a sealant/primer on the bare metal, before putting on a barrier coat, and 
> what is the best method for application?  I have also taken the hull to 
> gelcoat and plan to put on a barrier coat and new bottom paint...any other 
> ideas...? Many thanks...
> 
> 
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; on the hard...
> 
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> To: C&C List 
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
> Sent: Thu, May 3, 2018 1:33 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2gmf
> 
> Send us a picture.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> On Thu, May 3, 2018, 12:21 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Seem to be loosing some fuel. The tank is good. There is no leak from the 
> tank to the primary filter. It then goes to the engine. No leak there. Pardon 
> my ignorance but there is a round attachment with a gasket on the top that 
> seems to be leaking. There are some small  screws? bolts? holding it down. It 
> seems to be oozing from there. Can I tighten them leaving everything together 
> or do I need to take the mixing elbow off?
> Yanmar 2gmf.
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Keel treatment

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I believe West Systems suggests scrubbing epoxy into the metal with a wire
brush or a scrubby pad.  Anytime an epoxy coating is applied (west systems,
interprotect, etc) I've been told that to ensure proper adhesion between
layers you need to apply the next layer while the last coating is still
soft or tacky.  This includes the first coat of bottom paint.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Thu, May 3, 2018, 5:11 PM bushmark4--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> To the group; I have removed all of the old bottom paint and some old
> faring compound from my keel and it is now down to bare lead; what should I
> use for a sealant/primer on the bare metal, before putting on a barrier
> coat, and what is the best method for application?  I have also taken the
> hull to gelcoat and plan to put on a barrier coat and new bottom
> paint...any other ideas...? Many thanks...
>
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; on the hard...
>
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> To: C&C List 
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
> Sent: Thu, May 3, 2018 1:33 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2gmf
>
> Send us a picture.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Thu, May 3, 2018, 12:21 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Seem to be loosing some fuel. The tank is good. There is no leak from the
> tank to the primary filter. It then goes to the engine. No leak there.
> Pardon my ignorance but there is a round attachment with a gasket on the
> top that seems to be leaking. There are some small  screws? bolts? holding
> it down. It seems to be oozing from there. Can I tighten them leaving
> everything together or do I need to take the mixing elbow off?
> Yanmar 2gmf.
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Keel treatment

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Josh is on track.  I just helped fix a "smile" on a 35-2.   Sanded to bare
lead then quickly applied epoxy with a 3M scrub pad with vigorous rubbing.
Minimizes the oxidation and promotes a good bond.  Once you get the epoxy
on the lead then you can apply barrier coat, paint, fairing, whatever.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, May 3, 2018 at 4:35 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I believe West Systems suggests scrubbing epoxy into the metal with a wire
> brush or a scrubby pad.  Anytime an epoxy coating is applied (west systems,
> interprotect, etc) I've been told that to ensure proper adhesion between
> layers you need to apply the next layer while the last coating is still
> soft or tacky.  This includes the first coat of bottom paint.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 3, 2018, 5:11 PM bushmark4--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> To the group; I have removed all of the old bottom paint and some old
>> faring compound from my keel and it is now down to bare lead; what should I
>> use for a sealant/primer on the bare metal, before putting on a barrier
>> coat, and what is the best method for application?  I have also taken the
>> hull to gelcoat and plan to put on a barrier coat and new bottom
>> paint...any other ideas...? Many thanks...
>>
>>
>> Richard
>> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; on the hard...
>>
>> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
>> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
>> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
>> 502-584-7255
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>> To: C&C List 
>> Cc: Josh Muckley 
>> Sent: Thu, May 3, 2018 1:33 pm
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2gmf
>>
>> Send us a picture.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>> On Thu, May 3, 2018, 12:21 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Seem to be loosing some fuel. The tank is good. There is no leak from the
>> tank to the primary filter. It then goes to the engine. No leak there.
>> Pardon my ignorance but there is a round attachment with a gasket on the
>> top that seems to be leaking. There are some small  screws? bolts? holding
>> it down. It seems to be oozing from there. Can I tighten them leaving
>> everything together or do I need to take the mixing elbow off?
>> Yanmar 2gmf.
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Keel treatment

[Kevin Benoit via CnC-List]

I’ll also pile on and say that Josh and Dennis’ method works quite nicely.
It was my boat that Dennis repaired and the epoxy bond to the lead was
quite strong.  I know because I tested it extensively after he was done and
gone and not looking.

Kevin Benoit
S/V Guru
1976 MKII 35’

On Thu, May 3, 2018 at 5:02 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Josh is on track.  I just helped fix a "smile" on a 35-2.   Sanded to bare
> lead then quickly applied epoxy with a 3M scrub pad with vigorous rubbing.
> Minimizes the oxidation and promotes a good bond.  Once you get the epoxy
> on the lead then you can apply barrier coat, paint, fairing, whatever.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Thu, May 3, 2018 at 4:35 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I believe West Systems suggests scrubbing epoxy into the metal with a
>> wire brush or a scrubby pad.  Anytime an epoxy coating is applied (west
>> systems, interprotect, etc) I've been told that to ensure proper adhesion
>> between layers you need to apply the next layer while the last coating is
>> still soft or tacky.  This includes the first coat of bottom paint.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 3, 2018, 5:11 PM bushmark4--- via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> To the group; I have removed all of the old bottom paint and some old
>>> faring compound from my keel and it is now down to bare lead; what should I
>>> use for a sealant/primer on the bare metal, before putting on a barrier
>>> coat, and what is the best method for application?  I have also taken the
>>> hull to gelcoat and plan to put on a barrier coat and new bottom
>>> paint...any other ideas...? Many thanks...
>>>
>>>
>>> Richard
>>> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; on the hard...
>>>
>>> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
>>> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
>>> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
>>> 502-584-7255
>>>
>>>
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>> To: C&C List 
>>> Cc: Josh Muckley 
>>> Sent: Thu, May 3, 2018 1:33 pm
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2gmf
>>>
>>> Send us a picture.
>>>
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>> 1989 C&C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD
>>>
>>> On Thu, May 3, 2018, 12:21 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Seem to be loosing some fuel. The tank is good. There is no leak from
>>> the tank to the primary filter. It then goes to the engine. No leak there.
>>> Pardon my ignorance but there is a round attachment with a gasket on the
>>> top that seems to be leaking. There are some small  screws? bolts? holding
>>> it down. It seems to be oozing from there. Can I tighten them leaving
>>> everything together or do I need to take the mixing elbow off?
>>> Yanmar 2gmf.
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
>>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Kevin Benoit 225-205-2373 Sent from My IPhone
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Re: Stus-List Keel treatment

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Be careful about that first coat of bottom paint.  It depends on the paint.

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2018 5:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel treatment

I believe West Systems suggests scrubbing epoxy into the metal with a wire 
brush or a scrubby pad.  Anytime an epoxy coating is applied (west systems, 
interprotect, etc) I've been told that to ensure proper adhesion between layers 
you need to apply the next layer while the last coating is still soft or tacky. 
 This includes the first coat of bottom paint. 

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD 




On Thu, May 3, 2018, 5:11 PM bushmark4--- via CnC-List  
wrote:

  To the group; I have removed all of the old bottom paint and some old faring 
compound from my keel and it is now down to bare lead; what should I use for a 
sealant/primer on the bare metal, before putting on a barrier coat, and what is 
the best method for application?  I have also taken the hull to gelcoat and 
plan to put on a barrier coat and new bottom paint...any other ideas...? Many 
thanks...



  Richard
  s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; on the hard...


  Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
  2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
  Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
  502-584-7255


  -Original Message-
  From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
  To: C&C List 
  Cc: Josh Muckley 
  Sent: Thu, May 3, 2018 1:33 pm
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2gmf


  Send us a picture. 

  Josh Muckley
  S/V Sea Hawk 
  1989 C&C 37+
  Solomons, MD 

  On Thu, May 3, 2018, 12:21 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Seem to be loosing some fuel. The tank is good. There is no leak from the 
tank to the primary filter. It then goes to the engine. No leak there. Pardon 
my ignorance but there is a round attachment with a gasket on the top that 
seems to be leaking. There are some small  screws? bolts? holding it down. It 
seems to be oozing from there. Can I tighten them leaving everything together 
or do I need to take the mixing elbow off?
Yanmar 2gmf.
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


  ___

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every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Keel treatment

[Chris Price via CnC-List]

Neill, I've always wetsanded the lead with West Systems epoxy. Then sanded for tooth and applied bottom paint. No issues so far. Chris Price On May 3, 2018 at 5:26 PM Neil Gallagher via CnC-List  wrote: Richard,  I'm dealing with exactly the same issue, had the bottom soda blasted to bare lead and what's left of my gelcoat.  I called Interlux about this, their tech rep recommended Interprotect 2000E on both the hull and the lead.  For the lead he recommended thinning the first coat 15%-20% with their 2333N thinner so it will flow into the cracks, as some of my keel's a bit rough.  Then you can fair it and build it up with more barrier coat (the 2000E).  Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY  On 5/3/2018 5:11 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List wrote:To the group; I have removed all of the old bottom paint and some old faring compound from my keel and it is now down to bare lead; what should I use for a sealant/primer on the bare metal, before putting on a barrier coat, and what is the best method for application?  I have also taken the hull to gelcoat and plan to put on a barrier coat and new bottom paint...any other ideas...? Many thanks... Richard s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; on the hard... Richard N. Bush Law Offices  2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462  502-584-7255-Original Message- From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  To: C&C List  Cc: Josh Muckley  Sent: Thu, May 3, 2018 1:33 pm Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2gmf Send us a picture.Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD On Thu, May 3, 2018, 12:21 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List  wrote:Seem to be loosing some fuel. The tank is good. There is no leak from the tank to the primary filter. It then goes to the engine. No leak there. Pardon my ignorance but there is a round attachment with a gasket on the top that seems to be leaking. There are some small  screws? bolts? holding it down. It seems to be oozing from there. Can I tighten them leaving everything together or do I need to take the mixing elbow off?Yanmar 2gmf.___  Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___  Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  ___

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Re: Stus-List Keel treatment

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Watching this thread with interest. Currently have 6,000 lbs of exposed lead 
(yes, not safe or ideal…) sitting in a cradle in the yard. FWIW, a former owner 
of “Ronin” sliced off the top layer of below waterline gelcoat and recoated 
everything with epoxy. And apparently the keel was dropped during this process. 
What is interesting is that epoxy was used when the keel was bolted back up…

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On May 3, 2018, at 7:55 PM, Chris Price via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Neill, I've always wetsanded the lead with West Systems epoxy. Then sanded 
> for tooth and applied bottom paint. No issues so far. 
> 
> Chris Price 
> 
>> On May 3, 2018 at 5:26 PM Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Richard,
>> 
>> I'm dealing with exactly the same issue, had the bottom soda blasted to bare 
>> lead and what's left of my gelcoat.  I called Interlux about this, their 
>> tech rep recommended Interprotect 2000E on both the hull and the lead.  For 
>> the lead he recommended thinning the first coat 15%-20% with their 2333N 
>> thinner so it will flow into the cracks, as some of my keel's a bit rough.  
>> Then you can fair it and build it up with more barrier coat (the 2000E).
>> 
>> Neil Gallagher
>> Weatherly, 35-1
>> Glen Cove, NY
>> 
>> 
>> On 5/3/2018 5:11 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List wrote:
>>> To the group; I have removed all of the old bottom paint and some old 
>>> faring compound from my keel and it is now down to bare lead; what should I 
>>> use for a sealant/primer on the bare metal, before putting on a barrier 
>>> coat, and what is the best method for application?  I have also taken the 
>>> hull to gelcoat and plan to put on a barrier coat and new bottom 
>>> paint...any other ideas...? Many thanks...
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Richard
>>> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; on the hard...
>>> 
>>> Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
>>> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
>>> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
>>> 502-584-7255
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
>>> 
>>> To: C&C List  
>>> Cc: Josh Muckley  
>>> Sent: Thu, May 3, 2018 1:33 pm
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2gmf
>>> 
>>> Send us a picture.
>>> 
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>>> 1989 C&C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD 
>>> 
>>> On Thu, May 3, 2018, 12:21 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> Seem to be loosing some fuel. The tank is good. There is no leak from the 
>>> tank to the primary filter. It then goes to the engine. No leak there. 
>>> Pardon my ignorance but there is a round attachment with a gasket on the 
>>> top that seems to be leaking. There are some small  screws? bolts? holding 
>>> it down. It seems to be oozing from there. Can I tighten them leaving 
>>> everything together or do I need to take the mixing elbow off?
>>> Yanmar 2gmf.
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
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>>> 
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>>> 
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>>> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
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>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
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>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
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>>> 
>> 
> 
>  
> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Keel treatment

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Perhaps the best fix for the C&C smile is to separate and properly re-mate the 
keel and stub, but this is obviously a big job.  I have been told that the 
reason C&C smiles are so common is that they did not do a great job with this 
aspect of production.  Sounds right to me.  Not sure if fixing it is worth the 
expense.

From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2018 8:38 PM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Dave Godwin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel treatment

Watching this thread with interest. Currently have 6,000 lbs of exposed lead 
(yes, not safe or ideal…) sitting in a cradle in the yard. FWIW, a former owner 
of “Ronin” sliced off the top layer of below waterline gelcoat and recoated 
everything with epoxy. And apparently the keel was dropped during this process. 
What is interesting is that epoxy was used when the keel was bolted back up… 

Best,

Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit


  On May 3, 2018, at 7:55 PM, Chris Price via CnC-List  
wrote:

  Neill, I've always wetsanded the lead with West Systems epoxy. Then sanded 
for tooth and applied bottom paint. No issues so far. 

  Chris Price 

On May 3, 2018 at 5:26 PM Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Richard,

I'm dealing with exactly the same issue, had the bottom soda blasted to 
bare lead and what's left of my gelcoat.  I called Interlux about this, their 
tech rep recommended Interprotect 2000E on both the hull and the lead.  For the 
lead he recommended thinning the first coat 15%-20% with their 2333N thinner so 
it will flow into the cracks, as some of my keel's a bit rough.  Then you can 
fair it and build it up with more barrier coat (the 2000E).

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 5/3/2018 5:11 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List wrote:

  To the group; I have removed all of the old bottom paint and some old 
faring compound from my keel and it is now down to bare lead; what should I use 
for a sealant/primer on the bare metal, before putting on a barrier coat, and 
what is the best method for application?  I have also taken the hull to gelcoat 
and plan to put on a barrier coat and new bottom paint...any other ideas...? 
Many thanks...



  Richard
  s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; on the hard...


  Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
  2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
  Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
  502-584-7255


  -Original Message-
  From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  To: C&C List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com
  Sent: Thu, May 3, 2018 1:33 pm
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2gmf


  Send us a picture. 

  Josh Muckley
  S/V Sea Hawk 
  1989 C&C 37+
  Solomons, MD 

  On Thu, May 3, 2018, 12:21 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Seem to be loosing some fuel. The tank is good. There is no leak from 
the tank to the primary filter. It then goes to the engine. No leak there. 
Pardon my ignorance but there is a round attachment with a gasket on the top 
that seems to be leaking. There are some small  screws? bolts? holding it down. 
It seems to be oozing from there. Can I tighten them leaving everything 
together or do I need to take the mixing elbow off?
Yanmar 2gmf.
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and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2gmf

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi Bev,

I'm a bit confused by your description. By "round" attachment, do you mean
cylindrical?  My first thought is that this is your secondary fuel filter
and the bleed nut is open.  This filter is located on the front of the
engine (trace the fuel line from the fuel pump).   But then your reference
to the mixing elbow is what got me confused. It is at the rear of the
engine and there shouldn't be any fuel coming out anywhere near there
(maybe your return fuel line has a leak??)

Mike

On Thu, May 3, 2018, 12:21 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Seem to be loosing some fuel. The tank is good. There is no leak from the
> tank to the primary filter. It then goes to the engine. No leak there.
> Pardon my ignorance but there is a round attachment with a gasket on the
> top that seems to be leaking. There are some small  screws? bolts? holding
> it down. It seems to be oozing from there. Can I tighten them leaving
> everything together or do I need to take the mixing elbow off?
> Yanmar 2gmf.
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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