Stus-List Volvo Penta Sail Drive

[Rod Stright via CnC-List]

Anyone out there have any experience at replacing a Volvo Penta Sail Drive
and transmission?  Recommendation on a good source for parts and expertise
hopefully on the east coast.?

 

Thanks

Rod

2004 C&C 99

 

 

 



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Re: Stus-List Volvo Penta Sail Drive

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

McMichael in Mamaroneck, NY did the seal on my Volvo saildrive.  Good people.

John


Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 21, 2017, at 7:20 AM, Rod Stright via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Anyone out there have any experience at replacing a Volvo Penta Sail Drive 
> and transmission?  Recommendation on a good source for parts and expertise 
> hopefully on the east coast.?
>  
> Thanks
> Rod
> 2004 C&C 99
>  
>  
>  
> 
> 
>   
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. 
> www.avast.com
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Stus-List Sail Drives in general > Maintenance?

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Am beginning to look for the "next" boat [this winter's armchair boat
project vs. the real ones] and have come across some that have sail drives,
though most are traditional shaft drives.  

 

What is the group's experience with sail drives from any engine builder?
Google has revealed Volvo and Yanmar have the bulk of the market and sail
drives are becoming the rule vs. the exception on newer boats over the past
10 years or so.  While they are reported to be quieter / less vibration than
traditional shafts, from what I have read  the maintenance beyond changing
the oil in the drive unit annually [just as one would for the engine] is not
really a DIY project.  Replacing the 2 seals, particularly the one keeping
the water out of the boat, sounds like they are a yard job - and expensive
ones at that; on the order of $2 - $5k depending on the location of the
yard.  And the "recommended" seal replacement interval is reported at every
5 to 7 years.   While many owners may go well beyond that, what happens to
an insurance claim if one has exceeded the manufacturer's "recommended
service" interval?  

 

Any experience / information with sail drives is appreciated.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rod
Stright via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2017 7:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rod Stright 
Subject: Stus-List Volvo Penta Sail Drive

 

Anyone out there have any experience at replacing a Volvo Penta Sail Drive
and transmission?  Recommendation on a good source for parts and expertise
hopefully on the east coast.?

 

Thanks

Rod

2004 C&C 99

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Re: Stus-List Sail Drives in general > Maintenance?

[David via CnC-List]

Not first hand but from reading and friends who own them.


They are the choice of builders because they are the easiest and cheapest to 
install.  For the boat owner thereafter they expensive to maintain. And every 
repair seem to be in the thousands (usually north of $5,000).  I would not 
attempt a DIY with it either.  You make a mistake with packing a stuffing box 
no biggie (relatively so)..with a sail drive seal etc...Biggie.


And then there is the ever-present corrosion of the drive issue.  Aluminum and 
salt water do not play nice.



Me?  I would stay far away.


Good luck with your search.


David F. Risch

1981 40-2

(401) 419-4650 (cell)



From: CnC-List  on behalf of Nauset Beach via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2017 9:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Nauset Beach
Subject: Stus-List Sail Drives in general > Maintenance?


Am beginning to look for the “next” boat [this winter’s armchair boat project 
vs. the real ones] and have come across some that have sail drives, though most 
are traditional shaft drives.



What is the group’s experience with sail drives from any engine builder?  
Google has revealed Volvo and Yanmar have the bulk of the market and sail 
drives are becoming the rule vs. the exception on newer boats over the past 10 
years or so.  While they are reported to be quieter / less vibration than 
traditional shafts, from what I have read  the maintenance beyond changing the 
oil in the drive unit annually [just as one would for the engine] is not really 
a DIY project.  Replacing the 2 seals, particularly the one keeping the water 
out of the boat, sounds like they are a yard job – and expensive ones at that; 
on the order of $2 - $5k depending on the location of the yard.  And the 
“recommended” seal replacement interval is reported at every 5 to 7 years…   
While many owners may go well beyond that, what happens to an insurance claim 
if one has exceeded the manufacturer’s “recommended service” interval?



Any experience / information with sail drives is appreciated.



Thanks,

Brian



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rod Stright 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2017 7:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rod Stright 
Subject: Stus-List Volvo Penta Sail Drive



Anyone out there have any experience at replacing a Volvo Penta Sail Drive and 
transmission?  Recommendation on a good source for parts and expertise 
hopefully on the east coast.?



Thanks

Rod

2004 C&C 99
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Re: Stus-List Sail Drives in general > Maintenance?

[Mike Casey via CnC-List]

I would never have one. The more changes in direction you have in a
mechanical device the more complicated it becomes. In one instance here the
yard got a strap around it when taking the boat out of the water. I need
not explain the result.

Mike Casey
C&C 30 1980

On Tue, Nov 21, 2017 at 10:41 AM, Nauset Beach via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Am beginning to look for the “next” boat [this winter’s armchair boat
> project vs. the real ones] and have come across some that have sail drives,
> though most are traditional shaft drives.
>
>
>
> What is the group’s experience with sail drives from any engine builder?
> Google has revealed Volvo and Yanmar have the bulk of the market and sail
> drives are becoming the rule vs. the exception on newer boats over the past
> 10 years or so.  While they are reported to be quieter / less vibration
> than traditional shafts, from what I have read  the maintenance beyond
> changing the oil in the drive unit annually [just as one would for the
> engine] is not really a DIY project.  Replacing the 2 seals, particularly
> the one keeping the water out of the boat, sounds like they are a yard job
> – and expensive ones at that; on the order of $2 - $5k depending on the
> location of the yard.  And the “recommended” seal replacement interval is
> reported at every 5 to 7 years…   While many owners may go well beyond
> that, what happens to an insurance claim if one has exceeded the
> manufacturer’s “recommended service” interval?
>
>
>
> Any experience / information with sail drives is appreciated.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rod
> Stright via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 21, 2017 7:21 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Rod Stright 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Volvo Penta Sail Drive
>
>
>
> Anyone out there have any experience at replacing a Volvo Penta Sail Drive
> and transmission?  Recommendation on a good source for parts and expertise
> hopefully on the east coast.?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Rod
>
> 2004 C&C 99
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Stus-List Surveyor

[coltrek via CnC-List]

 looking for a recommendation for a good surveyor in the Annapolis Area please.


Regards,
Bill ColemanC&C 39

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Re: Stus-List Surveyor

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Derek Rhymes, All Boat Surveys.  Trained by Jack Horner.

Joel

On Tue, Nov 21, 2017 at 12:27 PM, coltrek via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  looking for a recommendation for a good surveyor in the Annapolis Area
> please.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Sail Drives in general > Maintenance?

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Agree.
From 1973 to 2017, my shaft drive system has had:
Prop swaps for better performance under sail or power, depending on what we 
were doing.
Tighten stuffing box.
Zincs
Strut tightened and PSS seal put on in 1988.
Hit a log and bent the shaft. New shaft, new cutless bearing, and new PSS in 
2014. The prop was reconditioned. $1500 yard bill covered by insurance.
More zincs.
Some zincs.

A sail drive from that long ago would have replaced several times over at the 
very least. I would estimate the sail drive total maintenance over that time 
period would have been 10-20 times as much.
I would still have the original shaft absent hitting something.



Joe Della Barba
Coquina



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mike Casey 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2017 11:42 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mike Casey 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail Drives in general > Maintenance?

I would never have one. The more changes in direction you have in a mechanical 
device the more complicated it becomes. In one instance here the yard got a 
strap around it when taking the boat out of the water. I need not explain the 
result.

Mike Casey
C&C 30 1980

On Tue, Nov 21, 2017 at 10:41 AM, Nauset Beach via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Am beginning to look for the “next” boat [this winter’s armchair boat project 
vs. the real ones] and have come across some that have sail drives, though most 
are traditional shaft drives.

What is the group’s experience with sail drives from any engine builder?  
Google has revealed Volvo and Yanmar have the bulk of the market and sail 
drives are becoming the rule vs. the exception on newer boats over the past 10 
years or so.  While they are reported to be quieter / less vibration than 
traditional shafts, from what I have read  the maintenance beyond changing the 
oil in the drive unit annually [just as one would for the engine] is not really 
a DIY project.  Replacing the 2 seals, particularly the one keeping the water 
out of the boat, sounds like they are a yard job – and expensive ones at that; 
on the order of $2 - $5k depending on the location of the yard.  And the 
“recommended” seal replacement interval is reported at every 5 to 7 years…   
While many owners may go well beyond that, what happens to an insurance claim 
if one has exceeded the manufacturer’s “recommended service” interval?

Any experience / information with sail drives is appreciated.

Thanks,
Brian

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Rod Stright via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2017 7:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rod Stright mailto:strig...@eastlink.ca>>
Subject: Stus-List Volvo Penta Sail Drive

Anyone out there have any experience at replacing a Volvo Penta Sail Drive and 
transmission?  Recommendation on a good source for parts and expertise 
hopefully on the east coast.?

Thanks
Rod
2004 C&C 99

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Re: Stus-List Surveyor

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Say it ain’t so, Bill.

From: coltrek via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2017 12:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: coltrek 
Subject: Stus-List Surveyor

looking for a recommendation for a good surveyor in the Annapolis Area please.



Regards, 

Bill Coleman
C&C 39






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Re: Stus-List Sail Drives in general > Maintenance?

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

Personally I would look for shaft.  To have saildrive is to truly understand 
fear of electrolysis.  I also miss the prop walk.  Replacing the seals is an 
every 8 yr project according to Volvo and cost 4,500 last time I did it.  Only 
real advantage is for the builder.  They do however open up the back cabin.

Just my 2 cents

Jersey he


Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 21, 2017, at 9:41 AM, Nauset Beach via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Am beginning to look for the “next” boat [this winter’s armchair boat project 
> vs. the real ones] and have come across some that have sail drives, though 
> most are traditional shaft drives. 
>  
> What is the group’s experience with sail drives from any engine builder?  
> Google has revealed Volvo and Yanmar have the bulk of the market and sail 
> drives are becoming the rule vs. the exception on newer boats over the past 
> 10 years or so.  While they are reported to be quieter / less vibration than 
> traditional shafts, from what I have read  the maintenance beyond changing 
> the oil in the drive unit annually [just as one would for the engine] is not 
> really a DIY project.  Replacing the 2 seals, particularly the one keeping 
> the water out of the boat, sounds like they are a yard job – and expensive 
> ones at that; on the order of $2 - $5k depending on the location of the yard. 
>  And the “recommended” seal replacement interval is reported at every 5 to 7 
> years…   While many owners may go well beyond that, what happens to an 
> insurance claim if one has exceeded the manufacturer’s “recommended service” 
> interval? 
>  
> Any experience / information with sail drives is appreciated. 
>  
> Thanks,
> Brian
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rod 
> Stright via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2017 7:21 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Rod Stright 
> Subject: Stus-List Volvo Penta Sail Drive
>  
> Anyone out there have any experience at replacing a Volvo Penta Sail Drive 
> and transmission?  Recommendation on a good source for parts and expertise 
> hopefully on the east coast.?
>  
> Thanks
> Rod
> 2004 C&C 99
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Surveyor

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bill,

 

I purchased Patriot in Annapolis and used Fred Wise.  Here’s his contact info:

Fred Wise Yacht Survey, LLC

Accredited Marine Surveyor

14154 Gregg Neck Road

Galena, Maryland 21635

410 648 5052

Fax 410 648 6857

 

He is knowledgeable and thorough.  Sorry I can’t find an email address.  

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of coltrek via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2017 12:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: coltrek
Subject: Stus-List Surveyor

 

 looking for a recommendation for a good surveyor in the Annapolis Area please.

 

 

 

Regards,

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39

 

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Stus-List Please remove this e-mail from your mailing list

[mbogaert via CnC-List]

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Re: Stus-List Annapolis Area Surveyor

[Doug Ellmore via CnC-List]

My friend and former high school coach from North Sails in Annapolis
recommends:

Kevin White   410 703 2165


Doug Ellmore, Sr.
s/v Red Sky
1976 C&C 24
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Re: Stus-List Annapolis Area Surveyor

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

When I purchased the Enterprise back in 2005, it was in Annapolis. The surveyor 
was Robert A. Noyce and Associates; 410-263-7499. They did a very thorough job. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 





> On Nov 21, 2017, at 4:08 PM, Doug Ellmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My friend and former high school coach from North Sails in Annapolis 
> recommends:
> 
> Kevin White   410 703 2165
> 
> 
> Doug Ellmore, Sr.
> s/v Red Sky
> 1976 C&C 24
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Stus-List Fuel Filters

[DON JONSSON via CnC-List]

Hi

In Canada the current regulations say:

7.7.1 Every fuel filter or strainer shall be capable of resisting damages by 
fire according to the requirements for fuel systems set forth in ABYC Standard 
H-24 Gasoline Fuel Systems, paragraph 5.7, unless the filter or strainer is 
inside the fuel tank.

And as far as I can tell this applies to both Diesel and Gasoline engines in 
Canada.  The ABYC standard says that you can't have a plastic see through bowl 
unless it is shielded. 

Preliminary investigation at local Gartside says $500 for the filter we need, a 
Racor 500 series.  They claim they are replacing lots of filters now because 
the old models won't pass the insurance survey.  $500 seems like a staggering 
amount of money (albeit Canadian $) for a filter.

Has anyone got insight into this, and suggestions for a cheaper filter?  Is 
this first filter that I used to use a Racor 2000 for.

Thanks
Don


Sent from my iPad
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Stus-List Fixing leaky portlights

[Scott Baker via CnC-List]

Hi All,
I am still really new in this group and I've not really figured out how to 
search through the archives to find the advice I need.
I know this topic has probably been exhausted on here, but I need to replace my 
portlights on my 1987 35MKIII.
Some background and my questions:
~My boat has 2 windows on each side, but they still have a slight curvature in 
them.
~I've watched Andy's Youtube Video where he uses VHB (Very High Bond) Tape from 
3M to install similar portlights. (although no curvature) 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8&index=2&list=PLV97GZkHhpHMFb660AAGO4PuRKJPmHxDS
~I like Andy's install method but obviously I'm worried about the curvature 
issue. Can I induce curve into the windows before I mount them? If I brace them 
in place I fear they will pop back "flat" again later? Solutions?
~I'm afraid of using screws or through bolts in the mounting proceedures 
because of the expansion issues etc... Is this a stupid fear?
~I've done enough scoping around to learn that everyone seems to have a 
different opinion of what the best material is to make new windows out of. Andy 
points us towards a specific material and source on his website.
~I'd like my new windows to be tinted, it seems this would make it hard to see 
in and also hide the flange in case it gets mucked up... Yes?
~I cannot find a good explanation of the best method to remove the old windows.
~I think many use the old windows as templates to make the new ones... so 
therefore they must be removing them intact? Has anyone mastered the removal of 
these windows without hacking everything up?
~My boat is on the hard and inside a huge shed now in Upstate, NY... Do I need 
to wait until it's really warm to do this? Maybe I work on removing the old 
windows and cleaning up the mounting areas and put new ones in in the spring?
Can someone point me in the right direction to find all the answers?
If there is a trick to locating past chats about all this on the C&C site, I'd 
love to be edumacated!
Sorry for beating this dead horse.
~Scott Baker

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Re: Stus-List Fixing leaky portlights

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Hola Scott.

I am getting ready to do the same thing on my boat for the second time. It’s a 
1982 vintage 37’ which has four ports as opposed to two like yours. 

I replaced the originals around 1998 and have these observations:

1.) I took the originals into a shop that re-created the originals, right 
down to the tint.

2.) Per their advice I used silicone to attach and seal the new ports. I will 
_never_ do that again.

3.) As far as tint is concerned, don’t make it too difficult; go with any shade 
that you are comfortable with.

What’s going on now:
I just dropped off my second set of ports off to be duplicated. I took their 
recommendation on tint color (“it’s what everyone uses...”). No matter what 
shade you use, it will not mask the difference between the rim and the opening. 
You will see through it. If you are using silicone...

They recommended silicone yet again. I ignored that. I will use VHB this time 
around. Silicone to “finish” the gap per Boatworks example.

I will be picking the new ports up at the end of this month (I’m currently in 
Punta del Este, UR) and then I will install them. The ambient temperatures in 
my area will be in the low fifties to high forties Fahrenheit. I have no 
concerns about temperature.

I would not worry about “curvature” issues. That was not a problem the first 
time I did the job.

As far as finishing the fiberglass surround after hacking out the Plexus, I 
have no words of wisdom. I am totally rebuilding my boat and the port openings 
have been completely repaired and painted. You might want to use some Awlfair 
to smooth the surface and then paint it. The VHB seems to be a fairly good 
masking background from the examples I have seen. If you want to see pictures, 
Google “Ronin Rebuild”.

IMHO, do not even think about drilling holes or using screws.

Keep it simple. ;-)

Cheers,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - “Ronin”
Reedville, VA


Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 21, 2017, at 18:59, Scott Baker via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> I am still really new in this group and I’ve not really figured out how to 
> search through the archives to find the advice I need.
> I know this topic has probably been exhausted on here, but I need to replace 
> my portlights on my 1987 35MKIII.
> Some background and my questions:
> ~My boat has 2 windows on each side, but they still have a slight curvature 
> in them.
> ~I’ve watched Andy’s Youtube Video where he uses VHB (Very High Bond) Tape 
> from 3M to install similar portlights. (although no curvature) 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8&index=2&list=PLV97GZkHhpHMFb660AAGO4PuRKJPmHxDS
> ~I like Andy’s install method but obviously I’m worried about the curvature 
> issue. Can I induce curve into the windows before I mount them? If I brace 
> them in place I fear they will pop back “flat” again later? Solutions?
> ~I’m afraid of using screws or through bolts in the mounting proceedures 
> because of the expansion issues etc… Is this a stupid fear?
> ~I’ve done enough scoping around to learn that everyone seems to have a 
> different opinion of what the best material is to make new windows out of. 
> Andy points us towards a specific material and source on his website.
> ~I’d like my new windows to be tinted, it seems this would make it hard to 
> see in and also hide the flange in case it gets mucked up… Yes?
> ~I cannot find a good explanation of the best method to remove the old 
> windows.
> ~I think many use the old windows as templates to make the new ones… so 
> therefore they must be removing them intact? Has anyone mastered the removal 
> of these windows without hacking everything up?
> ~My boat is on the hard and inside a huge shed now in Upstate, NY… Do I need 
> to wait until it’s really warm to do this? Maybe I work on removing the old 
> windows and cleaning up the mounting areas and put new ones in in the spring?
> Can someone point me in the right direction to find all the answers?
> If there is a trick to locating past chats about all this on the C&C site, 
> I’d love to be edumacated!
> Sorry for beating this dead horse.
> ~Scott Baker
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Fixing leaky portlights

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Use Dow Corning 495 to seal after installing plexiglass with the VHB. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (sale pending) 
Lf38 Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
 Date: 11/21/17  15:28  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dave Godwin , Scott Baker 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Fixing leaky portlights 
Hola Scott.
I am getting ready to do the same thing on my boat for the second time. It’s a 
1982 vintage 37’ which has four ports as opposed to two like yours. 
I replaced the originals around 1998 and have these observations:
1.) I took the originals into a shop that re-created the originals, right 
down to the tint.
2.) Per their advice I used silicone to attach and seal the new ports. I will 
_never_ do that again.
3.) As far as tint is concerned, don’t make it too difficult; go with any shade 
that you are comfortable with.
What’s going on now:I just dropped off my second set of ports off to be 
duplicated. I took their recommendation on tint color (“it’s what everyone 
uses...”). No matter what shade you use, it will not mask the difference 
between the rim and the opening. You will see through it. If you are using 
silicone...
They recommended silicone yet again. I ignored that. I will use VHB this time 
around. Silicone to “finish” the gap per Boatworks example.
I will be picking the new ports up at the end of this month (I’m currently in 
Punta del Este, UR) and then I will install them. The ambient temperatures in 
my area will be in the low fifties to high forties Fahrenheit. I have no 
concerns about temperature.
I would not worry about “curvature” issues. That was not a problem the first 
time I did the job.
As far as finishing the fiberglass surround after hacking out the Plexus, I 
have no words of wisdom. I am totally rebuilding my boat and the port openings 
have been completely repaired and painted. You might want to use some Awlfair 
to smooth the surface and then paint it. The VHB seems to be a fairly good 
masking background from the examples I have seen. If you want to see pictures, 
Google “Ronin Rebuild”.
IMHO, do not even think about drilling holes or using screws.
Keep it simple. ;-)
Cheers,Dave Godwin1982 C&C 37 - “Ronin”Reedville, VA

Sent from my iPad
On Nov 21, 2017, at 18:59, Scott Baker via CnC-List  
wrote:









Hi All,
I am still really new in this group and I’ve not really figured out how to 
search through the archives to find the advice I need.
I know this topic has probably been exhausted on here, but I need to replace my 
portlights on my 1987 35MKIII.

Some background and my questions:
~My boat has 2 windows on each side, but they still have a slight curvature in 
them.

~I’ve watched Andy’s Youtube Video where he uses VHB (Very High Bond) Tape from 
3M to install similar portlights. (although no curvature)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8&index=2&list=PLV97GZkHhpHMFb660AAGO4PuRKJPmHxDS
~I like Andy’s install method but obviously I’m worried about the curvature 
issue. Can I induce curve into the windows before I mount them? If I brace them 
in place I fear they will pop back “flat” again later? Solutions?
~I’m afraid of using screws or through bolts in the mounting proceedures 
because of the expansion issues etc… Is this a stupid fear?
~I’ve done enough scoping around to learn that everyone seems to have a 
different opinion of what the best material is to make new windows out of. Andy 
points us towards a specific material and source on his website.
~I’d like my new windows to be tinted, it seems this would make it hard to see 
in and also hide the flange in case it gets mucked up… Yes?
~I cannot find a good explanation of the best method to remove the old windows.

~I think many use the old windows as templates to make the new ones… so 
therefore they must be removing them intact? Has anyone mastered the removal of 
these windows without hacking everything up?
~My boat is on the hard and inside a huge shed now in Upstate, NY… Do I need to 
wait until it’s really warm to do this? Maybe I work on removing the old 
windows and cleaning up the mounting areas and put new ones in in the spring?
Can someone point me in the right direction to find all the answers?
If there is a trick to locating past chats about all this on the C&C site, I’d 
love to be edumacated!
Sorry for beating this dead horse.
~Scott Baker
 



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Re: Stus-List Fixing leaky portlights

[Mike Casey via CnC-List]

I have used 4200 with very good success.

On Tue, Nov 21, 2017 at 7:28 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hola Scott.
>
> I am getting ready to do the same thing on my boat for the second time.
> It’s a 1982 vintage 37’ which has four ports as opposed to two like yours.
>
> I replaced the originals around 1998 and have these observations:
>
> 1.) I took the originals into a shop that re-created the originals, right
> down to the tint.
>
> 2.) Per their advice I used silicone to attach and seal the new ports. I
> will _never_ do that again.
>
> 3.) As far as tint is concerned, don’t make it too difficult; go with any
> shade that you are comfortable with.
>
> What’s going on now:
> I just dropped off my second set of ports off to be duplicated. I took
> their recommendation on tint color (“it’s what everyone uses...”). No
> matter what shade you use, it will not mask the difference between the rim
> and the opening. You will see through it. If you are using silicone...
>
> They recommended silicone yet again. I ignored that. I will use VHB this
> time around. Silicone to “finish” the gap per Boatworks example.
>
> I will be picking the new ports up at the end of this month (I’m currently
> in Punta del Este, UR) and then I will install them. The ambient
> temperatures in my area will be in the low fifties to high forties
> Fahrenheit. I have no concerns about temperature.
>
> I would not worry about “curvature” issues. That was not a problem the
> first time I did the job.
>
> As far as finishing the fiberglass surround after hacking out the Plexus,
> I have no words of wisdom. I am totally rebuilding my boat and the port
> openings have been completely repaired and painted. You might want to use
> some Awlfair to smooth the surface and then paint it. The VHB seems to be a
> fairly good masking background from the examples I have seen. If you want
> to see pictures, Google “Ronin Rebuild”.
>
> IMHO, do not even think about drilling holes or using screws.
>
> Keep it simple. ;-)
>
> Cheers,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - “Ronin”
> Reedville, VA
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Nov 21, 2017, at 18:59, Scott Baker via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I am still really new in this group and I’ve not really figured out how to
> search through the archives to find the advice I need.
>
> I know this topic has probably been exhausted on here, but I need to
> replace my portlights on my 1987 35MKIII.
>
> Some background and my questions:
>
> ~My boat has 2 windows on each side, but they still have a slight
> curvature in them.
>
> ~I’ve watched Andy’s Youtube Video where he uses VHB (Very High Bond) Tape
> from 3M to install similar portlights. (although no curvature)
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8&index=2&list=
> PLV97GZkHhpHMFb660AAGO4PuRKJPmHxDS
>
> ~I like Andy’s install method but obviously I’m worried about the
> curvature issue. Can I induce curve into the windows before I mount them?
> If I brace them in place I fear they will pop back “flat” again later?
> Solutions?
>
> ~I’m afraid of using screws or through bolts in the mounting proceedures
> because of the expansion issues etc… Is this a stupid fear?
>
> ~I’ve done enough scoping around to learn that everyone seems to have a
> different opinion of what the best material is to make new windows out of.
> Andy points us towards a specific material and source on his website.
>
> ~I’d like my new windows to be tinted, it seems this would make it hard to
> see in and also hide the flange in case it gets mucked up… Yes?
>
> ~I cannot find a good explanation of the best method to remove the old
> windows.
>
> ~I think many use the old windows as templates to make the new ones… so
> therefore they must be removing them intact? Has anyone mastered the
> removal of these windows without hacking everything up?
>
> ~My boat is on the hard and inside a huge shed now in Upstate, NY… Do I
> need to wait until it’s really warm to do this? Maybe I work on removing
> the old windows and cleaning up the mounting areas and put new ones in in
> the spring?
>
> Can someone point me in the right direction to find all the answers?
>
> If there is a trick to locating past chats about all this on the C&C site,
> I’d love to be edumacated!
>
> Sorry for beating this dead horse.
>
> ~Scott Baker
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with yo

Re: Stus-List Fuel Filters

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

If you're willing to forego the see-through bowl, the Racor 500MAM might be
what you're looking for.  Sells for about $250 in the States.

The 500MA has the metal deflector but the see through bowl.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Nov 21, 2017 at 3:40 PM, DON JONSSON via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi
>
> In Canada the current regulations say:
>
> 7.7.1 Every fuel filter or strainer shall be capable of resisting damages
> by fire according to the requirements for fuel systems set forth in ABYC
> Standard H-24 Gasoline Fuel Systems, paragraph 5.7, unless the filter or
> strainer is inside the fuel tank.
>
> And as far as I can tell this applies to both Diesel and Gasoline engines
> in Canada.  The ABYC standard says that you can't have a plastic see
> through bowl unless it is shielded.
>
> Preliminary investigation at local Gartside says $500 for the filter we
> need, a Racor 500 series.  They claim they are replacing lots of filters
> now because the old models won't pass the insurance survey.  $500 seems
> like a staggering amount of money (albeit Canadian $) for a filter.
>
> Has anyone got insight into this, and suggestions for a cheaper filter?
> Is this first filter that I used to use a Racor 2000 for.
>
> Thanks
> Don
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fixing leaky portlights

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Scott,

I have replaced all of my port and hatch lenses on my boat.  For the hatches, I 
recommend using acrylic.   But for fixed ports, I recommend using  
polycarbonate for the replacement lenses.   Polycarbonate has a bad rap because 
of older variants were more prone to scratching and UV degradation.   The new 
variants like Makrolon made by Bayer is UV resistant and extended abrasion 
resistant.  Working with polycarbonate has some really nice features. First 
off, polycarbonate is bullet proof strong which means you don’t need 
polycarbonate to be as thick as acrylic. Whereas one might use 3/8” acrylic, 
1/4” polycarbonate is plenty thick.   It is also not as brittle as acrylics 
which means that it is easier to cut, sand, and shape.  Acrylic easily chips 
and cracks which can turn into creeping cracks.   But more importantly, 
polycarbonate is much more flexible and will fit your curvature nicely.

I replaced my fixed ports almost 3 years ago, and they still look like new.  

I have a description of my port work on my blog. 

See http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Nov 21, 2017, at 6:34 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2017 21:59:31 +
> From: Scott Baker  >
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Fixing leaky portlights
> Message-ID:
>   
> <3EF66FAE046FA642ABD7835F36723AB7B997DE30@HEXANDMBX-05.manage-cloud.local 
> >
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
> 
> Hi All,
> I am still really new in this group and I've not really figured out how to 
> search through the archives to find the advice I need.
> I know this topic has probably been exhausted on here, but I need to replace 
> my portlights on my 1987 35MKIII.
> Some background and my questions:
> ~My boat has 2 windows on each side, but they still have a slight curvature 
> in them.
> ~I've watched Andy's Youtube Video where he uses VHB (Very High Bond) Tape 
> from 3M to install similar portlights. (although no curvature) 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8&index=2&list=PLV97GZkHhpHMFb660AAGO4PuRKJPmHxDS
>  
> 
> ~I like Andy's install method but obviously I'm worried about the curvature 
> issue. Can I induce curve into the windows before I mount them? If I brace 
> them in place I fear they will pop back "flat" again later? Solutions?
> ~I'm afraid of using screws or through bolts in the mounting proceedures 
> because of the expansion issues etc... Is this a stupid fear?
> ~I've done enough scoping around to learn that everyone seems to have a 
> different opinion of what the best material is to make new windows out of. 
> Andy points us towards a specific material and source on his website.
> ~I'd like my new windows to be tinted, it seems this would make it hard to 
> see in and also hide the flange in case it gets mucked up... Yes?
> ~I cannot find a good explanation of the best method to remove the old 
> windows.
> ~I think many use the old windows as templates to make the new ones... so 
> therefore they must be removing them intact? Has anyone mastered the removal 
> of these windows without hacking everything up?
> ~My boat is on the hard and inside a huge shed now in Upstate, NY... Do I 
> need to wait until it's really warm to do this? Maybe I work on removing the 
> old windows and cleaning up the mounting areas and put new ones in in the 
> spring?
> Can someone point me in the right direction to find all the answers?
> If there is a trick to locating past chats about all this on the C&C site, 
> I'd love to be edumacated!
> Sorry for beating this dead horse.
> ~Scott Baker

___

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Re: Stus-List Sail Drives in general > Maintenance?

[rjcasciato via CnC-List]

So, just to jump into this thread . I repowered my 38MKII in 2005.  I chose 
to replace the original Volvo and shaft drive with a Yanmar 3ym30 with an SD20 
sail drive.  Total installation cost was near $9K..So we're now 12 years 
laterI remain an extremely positive supporter of the move
The engine regularly gets winterized...less than  $300/yr.lower unit drive 
oil flushed and replaced every 4 years $125 each time. (Think service on a 30hp 
outboard motor) The seals were replaced last winter.not necessary, just 
paranoid. Seal cost is around $100. Labor in my case involved lifting the 
engine out and replacing the factory elbow with a stainless version...and doing 
some engine room cosmeticstotal cost to replace and reinstall was around 
$1000.Overall cost to me has been much less than posts here.The performance 
of the saildrive is far superior to any shaft drive in my opinionmuch 
faster than the Volvo, very quiet, much better handling.and over 100lbs 
LIGHTER than the Volvo.Just my 12 year experience for comparison.I'd do it 
again in a heartbeat..Oh, I forgot to mention that it was Rob Ball who took 
me to the Yanmar booth at the Newport show in 2005 and pointed out the 3ym30 
and SD20 package...I had asked him "if there was anything he would do today to 
improve the 38MKII".this saildrive package was at the top of his list.
Ron C.



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: John Pennie via CnC-List 
 Date: 11/21/17  3:16 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: John Pennie  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Sail Drives in general > Maintenance? 
Personally I would look for shaft.  To have saildrive is to truly understand 
fear of electrolysis.  I also miss the prop walk.  Replacing the seals is an 
every 8 yr project according to Volvo and cost 4,500 last time I did it.  Only 
real advantage is for the builder.  They do however open up the back cabin.
Just my 2 cents
Jersey he

Sent from my iPad
On Nov 21, 2017, at 9:41 AM, Nauset Beach via CnC-List  
wrote:

Am beginning to look for the “next” boat [this winter’s armchair boat 
project vs. the real ones] and have come across some that have sail drives, 
though most are traditional shaft drives.   What is the group’s experience with 
sail drives from any engine builder?  Google has revealed Volvo and Yanmar have 
the bulk of the market and sail drives are becoming the rule vs. the exception 
on newer boats over the past 10 years or so.  While they are reported to be 
quieter / less vibration than traditional shafts, from what I have read  the 
maintenance beyond changing the oil in the drive unit annually [just as one 
would for the engine] is not really a DIY project.  Replacing the 2 seals, 
particularly the one keeping the water out of the boat, sounds like they are a 
yard job – and expensive ones at that; on the order of $2 - $5k depending on 
the location of the yard.  And the “recommended” seal replacement interval is 
reported at every 5 to 7 years…   While many owners may go well beyond that, 
what happens to an insurance claim if one has exceeded the manufacturer’s 
“recommended service” interval?   Any experience / information with sail drives 
is appreciated.   Thanks,Brian From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rod Stright via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2017 7:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rod Stright 
Subject: Stus-List Volvo Penta Sail Drive Anyone out there have any experience 
at replacing a Volvo Penta Sail Drive and transmission?  Recommendation on a 
good source for parts and expertise hopefully on the east coast.? ThanksRod2004 
C&C 99___

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Re: Stus-List Fuel Filters

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

I have a Racor 110, which is all aluminum. I don't see them for sale new
any more, but I saw a used one on the shelf for cheap at Spencer's in
Sidney a week or so ago.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 21 November 2017 at 16:10, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> If you're willing to forego the see-through bowl, the Racor 500MAM might
> be what you're looking for.  Sells for about $250 in the States.
>
> The 500MA has the metal deflector but the see through bowl.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Tue, Nov 21, 2017 at 3:40 PM, DON JONSSON via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi
>>
>> In Canada the current regulations say:
>>
>> 7.7.1 Every fuel filter or strainer shall be capable of resisting damages
>> by fire according to the requirements for fuel systems set forth in ABYC
>> Standard H-24 Gasoline Fuel Systems, paragraph 5.7, unless the filter or
>> strainer is inside the fuel tank.
>>
>> And as far as I can tell this applies to both Diesel and Gasoline engines
>> in Canada.  The ABYC standard says that you can't have a plastic see
>> through bowl unless it is shielded.
>>
>> Preliminary investigation at local Gartside says $500 for the filter we
>> need, a Racor 500 series.  They claim they are replacing lots of filters
>> now because the old models won't pass the insurance survey.  $500 seems
>> like a staggering amount of money (albeit Canadian $) for a filter.
>>
>> Has anyone got insight into this, and suggestions for a cheaper filter?
>> Is this first filter that I used to use a Racor 2000 for.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Don
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Fuel Filters

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Most Racor filters can be fitted with a metal bowl. E.g. Defender sells a 230 
model 
(https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C311%7C2349059%7C2837510&id=3325719)
 and a replacement metal  bowl  
(http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?name=racor-replacement-metal-bowl-kit&path=-1|311|2349059|2349074&id=3325364)
 . It is actually quite possible that the original filter is already ABYC 
compliant.



Marine Outfitters (out of Kingston) sell model 215 (with the metal bowl) for 
$215. That one is smaller, but I still think it is enough.



nothing is cheap, though.



Marek



Sent from Mail for Windows 10




From: CnC-List  on behalf of DON JONSSON via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2017 4:40:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DON JONSSON
Subject: Stus-List Fuel Filters

Hi

In Canada the current regulations say:

7.7.1 Every fuel filter or strainer shall be capable of resisting damages by 
fire according to the requirements for fuel systems set forth in ABYC Standard 
H-24 Gasoline Fuel Systems, paragraph 5.7, unless the filter or strainer is 
inside the fuel tank.

And as far as I can tell this applies to both Diesel and Gasoline engines in 
Canada.  The ABYC standard says that you can't have a plastic see through bowl 
unless it is shielded.

Preliminary investigation at local Gartside says $500 for the filter we need, a 
Racor 500 series.  They claim they are replacing lots of filters now because 
the old models won't pass the insurance survey.  $500 seems like a staggering 
amount of money (albeit Canadian $) for a filter.

Has anyone got insight into this, and suggestions for a cheaper filter?  Is 
this first filter that I used to use a Racor 2000 for.

Thanks
Don


Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Fixing leaky portlights

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Here is my distillation of what I consider to be current wisdom on the
subject:

Never use polyurethane adhesives, they *will *debond at some point because
the solvents in polyurethane attack the plasticizers in the acrylic. They
don't play well together.

Do use VHB tape + Dow 740/goo of your choice for pretty trim. A stainless
trim piece will hide a multitude of sins.

Always use cast acrylic instead of extruded. It is far more stable and less
likely to crack from internal stresses. You can use polycarbonate if you
want, as mentioned it scratches more easily than acrylic but is stronger
under most impact scenarios. It will tear from an edge notch so it does
have its weak points. Either can have scratches and surface hazing polished
out. I like the Novus products for that. Polycarbonates have fewer tint
options. We re-lensed (I just made that up) with a lighter acrylic (2404)
and everyone comments on how bright our boat is. That really helps during
the rainy season.

Here's a good summation of the prep and repair work that can go into the
job. You may have to register to see the images (don't accept any candy
from strangers). I'm intrigued by the idea of applying a nice frit to the
inside to hide the goo.

http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?/topic/133986-how-i-fixed-my-f-ed-up-windows/



Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 21 November 2017 at 16:12, Dreuge via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Scott,
>
> I have replaced all of my port and hatch lenses on my boat.  For the
> hatches, I recommend using acrylic.   But for fixed ports, I recommend
> using  polycarbonate for the replacement lenses.   Polycarbonate has a bad
> rap because of older variants were more prone to scratching and UV
> degradation.   The new variants like Makrolon made by Bayer is UV resistant
> and extended abrasion resistant.  Working with polycarbonate has some
> really nice features. First off, polycarbonate is bullet proof strong which
> means you don’t need polycarbonate to be as thick as acrylic. Whereas one
> might use 3/8” acrylic, 1/4” polycarbonate is plenty thick.   It is also
> not as brittle as acrylics which means that it is easier to cut, sand, and
> shape.  Acrylic easily chips and cracks which can turn into creeping
> cracks.   But more importantly, polycarbonate is much more flexible and
> will fit your curvature nicely.
>
> I replaced my fixed ports almost 3 years ago, and they still look like
> new.
>
> I have a description of my port work on my blog.
>
> See http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
> On Nov 21, 2017, at 6:34 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2017 21:59:31 +
> From: Scott Baker 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Stus-List Fixing leaky portlights
> Message-ID:
> <3EF66FAE046FA642ABD7835F36723AB7B997DE30@HEXANDMBX-05.manage-cloud.local>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
>
> Hi All,
> I am still really new in this group and I've not really figured out how to
> search through the archives to find the advice I need.
> I know this topic has probably been exhausted on here, but I need to
> replace my portlights on my 1987 35MKIII.
> Some background and my questions:
> ~My boat has 2 windows on each side, but they still have a slight
> curvature in them.
> ~I've watched Andy's Youtube Video where he uses VHB (Very High Bond) Tape
> from 3M to install similar portlights. (although no curvature)
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8&index=2&list=
> PLV97GZkHhpHMFb660AAGO4PuRKJPmHxDS
> ~I like Andy's install method but obviously I'm worried about the
> curvature issue. Can I induce curve into the windows before I mount them?
> If I brace them in place I fear they will pop back "flat" again later?
> Solutions?
> ~I'm afraid of using screws or through bolts in the mounting proceedures
> because of the expansion issues etc... Is this a stupid fear?
> ~I've done enough scoping around to learn that everyone seems to have a
> different opinion of what the best material is to make new windows out of.
> Andy points us towards a specific material and source on his website.
> ~I'd like my new windows to be tinted, it seems this would make it hard to
> see in and also hide the flange in case it gets mucked up... Yes?
> ~I cannot find a good explanation of the best method to remove the old
> windows.
> ~I think many use the old windows as templates to make the new ones... so
> therefore they must be removing them intact? Has anyone mastered the
> removal of these windows without hacking everything up?
> ~My boat is on the hard and inside a huge shed now in Upstate, NY... Do I
> need to wait until it's really warm to do this? Maybe I work on removing
> the old windows and cleaning up the mounting areas and put new ones in in
> the spring?
> Can someone point me in the right direction to find all the ans

Re: Stus-List Fixing leaky portlights

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Scott,

 

I've done the portlights on my boat.twice, both time with Plexus.  I am
happy with the results, but the VHB route seems to work well also.  I might
give that a try next time.

 

In the meantime, removing the old portlights can be done with a hammer and a
thin putty knife.  The putty knife will help separate the portlight from the
opening.  The hammer will provide some persuasion.  Be careful, as any dings
and dents will need to get filled with epoxy later.  Even though the old
portlights may not come out in one piece, they can be taped together to form
a pattern for the new ones.

 

Plexus is rock hard at most temperatures.  Warming it with a heat gun may
help the process, if ambient temperatures aren't that high.

 

I went with a dark, smoke tint.  More modern than the original bronze color.
It also hides the adhesive better.  I have the Plexus caulk gun that I can
loan you, if you want to go that route.  Let me know.

 

Cheers,

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Scott
Baker via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2017 17:00
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Scott Baker 
Subject: Stus-List Fixing leaky portlights

 

Hi All,

I am still really new in this group and I've not really figured out how to
search through the archives to find the advice I need.

I know this topic has probably been exhausted on here, but I need to replace
my portlights on my 1987 35MKIII. 

Some background and my questions:

~My boat has 2 windows on each side, but they still have a slight curvature
in them. 

~I've watched Andy's Youtube Video where he uses VHB (Very High Bond) Tape
from 3M to install similar portlights. (although no curvature)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8
 &index=2&list=PLV97GZkHhpHMFb660AAGO4PuRKJPmHxDS

~I like Andy's install method but obviously I'm worried about the curvature
issue. Can I induce curve into the windows before I mount them? If I brace
them in place I fear they will pop back "flat" again later? Solutions?

~I'm afraid of using screws or through bolts in the mounting proceedures
because of the expansion issues etc. Is this a stupid fear?

~I've done enough scoping around to learn that everyone seems to have a
different opinion of what the best material is to make new windows out of.
Andy points us towards a specific material and source on his website.

~I'd like my new windows to be tinted, it seems this would make it hard to
see in and also hide the flange in case it gets mucked up. Yes?

~I cannot find a good explanation of the best method to remove the old
windows. 

~I think many use the old windows as templates to make the new ones. so
therefore they must be removing them intact? Has anyone mastered the removal
of these windows without hacking everything up?

~My boat is on the hard and inside a huge shed now in Upstate, NY. Do I need
to wait until it's really warm to do this? Maybe I work on removing the old
windows and cleaning up the mounting areas and put new ones in in the
spring?

Can someone point me in the right direction to find all the answers?

If there is a trick to locating past chats about all this on the C&C site,
I'd love to be edumacated!

Sorry for beating this dead horse.

~Scott Baker

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fixing leaky portlights

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

As to patterning, take a rubbing off the original window before you start
the dismantling process. Mine came out in roughly 38 pieces each.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 21 November 2017 at 18:40, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Scott,
>
>
>
> I’ve done the portlights on my boat…twice, both time with Plexus.  I am
> happy with the results, but the VHB route seems to work well also.  I might
> give that a try next time.
>
>
>
> In the meantime, removing the old portlights can be done with a hammer and
> a thin putty knife.  The putty knife will help separate the portlight from
> the opening.  The hammer will provide some persuasion.  Be careful, as any
> dings and dents will need to get filled with epoxy later.  Even though the
> old portlights may not come out in one piece, they can be taped together to
> form a pattern for the new ones.
>
>
>
> Plexus is rock hard at most temperatures.  Warming it with a heat gun may
> help the process, if ambient temperatures aren’t that high.
>
>
>
> I went with a dark, smoke tint.  More modern than the original bronze
> color.  It also hides the adhesive better.  I have the Plexus caulk gun
> that I can loan you, if you want to go that route.  Let me know.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Scott
> Baker via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 21, 2017 17:00
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Scott Baker 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Fixing leaky portlights
>
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I am still really new in this group and I’ve not really figured out how to
> search through the archives to find the advice I need.
>
> I know this topic has probably been exhausted on here, but I need to
> replace my portlights on my 1987 35MKIII.
>
> Some background and my questions:
>
> ~My boat has 2 windows on each side, but they still have a slight
> curvature in them.
>
> ~I’ve watched Andy’s Youtube Video where he uses VHB (Very High Bond) Tape
> from 3M to install similar portlights. (although no curvature)
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8&index=2&list=
> PLV97GZkHhpHMFb660AAGO4PuRKJPmHxDS
>
> ~I like Andy’s install method but obviously I’m worried about the
> curvature issue. Can I induce curve into the windows before I mount them?
> If I brace them in place I fear they will pop back “flat” again later?
> Solutions?
>
> ~I’m afraid of using screws or through bolts in the mounting proceedures
> because of the expansion issues etc… Is this a stupid fear?
>
> ~I’ve done enough scoping around to learn that everyone seems to have a
> different opinion of what the best material is to make new windows out of.
> Andy points us towards a specific material and source on his website.
>
> ~I’d like my new windows to be tinted, it seems this would make it hard to
> see in and also hide the flange in case it gets mucked up… Yes?
>
> ~I cannot find a good explanation of the best method to remove the old
> windows.
>
> ~I think many use the old windows as templates to make the new ones… so
> therefore they must be removing them intact? Has anyone mastered the
> removal of these windows without hacking everything up?
>
> ~My boat is on the hard and inside a huge shed now in Upstate, NY… Do I
> need to wait until it’s really warm to do this? Maybe I work on removing
> the old windows and cleaning up the mounting areas and put new ones in in
> the spring?
>
> Can someone point me in the right direction to find all the answers?
>
> If there is a trick to locating past chats about all this on the C&C site,
> I’d love to be edumacated!
>
> Sorry for beating this dead horse.
>
> ~Scott Baker
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Sail Drive

[Barry Lenoble via CnC-List]

Hello,

My 2002 110 has a saildrive. I bought the boat in 2013. I had the saildrive
seals changed in 2016. My mechanic did the work and it cost about $2K. The
original seal was in the boat for 14 years and looked perfect. I will wait
15 years before I change the seal again.

IMHO the saildrive is excellent. No leaks from the a stuffing box. Under
power it goes straight in forward and reverse. It is very low drag.
Maintenance has been simple - change the zinc, keep the leg epoxy coated,
change the gear oil every 100 hours (I do it every other year) and you
should be fine.

Barry

What is the group?s experience with sail drives from any engine builder?
Google has revealed Volvo and Yanmar have the bulk of the market and sail
drives are becoming the rule vs. the exception on newer boats over the past
10 years or so.  While they are reported to be quieter / less vibration than
traditional shafts, from what I have read  the maintenance beyond changing
the oil in the drive unit annually [just as one would for the engine] is not
really a DIY project.  Replacing the 2 seals, particularly the one keeping
the water out of the boat, sounds like they are a yard job ? and expensive
ones at that; on the order of $2 - $5k depending on the location of the
yard.  And the ?recommended? seal replacement interval is reported at every
5 to 7 years?   While many owners may go well beyond that, what happens to
an insurance claim if one has exceeded the manufacturer?s ?recommended
service? interval?


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray