Re: Stus-List wheel squeak

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

This brings up a good point - As for the cables, where would folks here buy 
them?  Directly from Edson (expensive) or is there a less expensive, but still 
good quality alternative (say from McMaster Carr, Grainger, etc.)?
 Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: svpegasus38 via CnC-List 
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Cc: svpegasus38 
 Sent: Saturday, August 26, 2017 2:08 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak
   
Had a similar thing happen sailing to Hawaii few years ago on a 1973 Ericson 
35. 500 miles from Hilo I had a steering cable break. Dug out the emergency 
tiller, and continued to sail. No anchoring here, lol. Figured out it was 
almost impossible to steer a course while looking aft at the compass, chart 
plotter was to slow to steer by. We hove to, changed the cable and sailed off 
into the sun set, well it did take all day to get to the sun set. Next morning 
at 5am the other cable broke. This time the capt was at the helm and the seas 
were in the neighborhood of 20ft instead of 4 like the day before. Hove to 
again changed the second cable. The owner had changed out the cable 3 years 
before using hardware store wire rope. I heard from a friend, who sailed back 
to Victoria, that the cables broke again. My thought was that he had too stuff 
of cable for the sheave  diameter. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: ahycrace via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/25/17 20:08 (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: ahycrace  Subject: Re: Stus-List 
wheel squeak 
Sailing down Narragansett bay a few years ago broad reach 7kts we hear a loud 
BANG and no steering. Get the sails down and anchor. We look under the cockpit 
and see that the idler plate is so rusted that one of the pullys has pulled 
right off. Get the emergency tiller out and attach it motor homea very bad 
day! Check that plate and all of the attached pullys. Edson has all the 
replacements if needed. I have pics of the bad plate before i took it off. I 
can post them when we get home we are in Newport watching the J class boats 
race.  
Gary. "Liberty"  38' Mk ll


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/24/17 10:08 AM (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Gilchrest  Subject: 
Re: Stus-List wheel squeak 
Richard,Make sure to use a non-petroleum based lubricant for the bearings that 
support the wheel shaft (such as Superlube or other Teflon based grease).  
Don’t squirt WD-40 or any light weight spray  lubricant into the grease holes 
as it will tend to flush any lube out of the nylon caged bearings.  You can 
also check to see if the bearings are worn if you can move the wheel shaft up 
and down, or side to side.  There should be no play in the shaft at all..  
Edson does sell a “pedestal rebuild kit” that includes bearings, circlips and 
all the other thrust washers and replacement components for the wheel shaft.  
If you go down that road, I’d also take the time to replace the brake shoes if 
everything else is apart.  The other possibility for your squeaky noise is the 
sheave pins (axles) for the bronze idler wheels.  They ride on plain bushings 
and in the “old days” the axles were also bronze, which will wear out 
eventually and allow the sheaves to go flying into the bilge under tension at 
the worst possible time.  If those have never been checked, replaced with 
stainless pins, or lubricated as described in Edson’s steering maintenance 
instructions, I would certainly do so.  Once the sheave pins wear, the sheaves 
go out of alignment and the squeaking you hear may be the axles getting ready 
to let go.    Finally, the Edson Idler plate at the base of the pedestal is 
generally made of mild steel below the deck.  Not terribly subjected to the 
elements, but they can and will eventually start to rust.  Once that happens, 
sheaves, cable alignments and other critical steering components can be 
affected, so check for a rusty idler plate as well as wobbly sheave uprights.  
Whatever you do, don’t wait for it to fail to fix it..  Boats without steering 
are not safe by any stretch of the imagination.  The folks at Edson are very 
good at walking you through what you need and they have data sheets on most 
every C&C Steering system they sold for our boats.Cheers,Chuck GilchrestS/V 
Half Magic1983 35 LandfallPadanaram, MA  From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2017 9:42 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak  Is it an Edson pedestal?  If so, there are 
two places to squeeze in grease under the compass.  If you look on YouTube 
there are Edson videos on replacing the bearings and they show the grease 
points.    I just did the bearing replacement on my current boat.  Joel  On 
T

Re: Stus-List transmission

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Ok, really, its a friends boatwhen the transmission is in gear you can 
still rotate, with some difficulty, but not a lot, the prop shaft...on mine, 
when in gear it is locked.
What is friends diagnosis / fix?

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Saturday, August 26, 2017 Gary Russell via CnC-List  
wrote:

McKanica silicone remover works well on silicone.


https://www.amazon.com/SILICONE-CAULK-MCKANICA-MfrPartNo-0354/dp/B000PVT1P4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503787953&sr=8-1&keywords=mckanica+silicone+caulk+remover


Gary

S/V Kaylarah

'90 C&C 37+

East Greenwich, RI, USA


~~~_/)~~


On Sat, Aug 26, 2017 at 9:22 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Try 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover. I’ve never found anything better for 
removing adhesive goop – including the residue of 4200 and 5200. You can buy it 
at any  auto parts store that sells refinishing supplies.

 

Removing silicone is a particular problem. When I rebuilt my A&H hatches a few 
years ago, I sourced a purpose made silicone remover to remove the residue 
(Sikaflex won’t stick to the silicone). I can’t recall the brand I bought. 
Perhaps someone on the list can supply the name, or you can find it on a Google 
Search.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2017 10:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph 
Subject: Stus-List removing portlight sealant

 

Hi All,

 

I'm replacing portlights with VHB taped acrylic. The PO sealed with Sudbury 
Elastomeric Sealant (silicon + polyurethane formulation) and screws through the 
acrylic, which  I've taken off using a multi-tool scraper.  The sealant remains 
a mess -- the heat/friction from the tool seemed to soften and smear the black 
sealant.

 

I've been trying to source some marine debond or adhesive remover that will 
play nice with fiberglass.  I did find some Xylene based Auto General Purpose 
Adhesive Cleaner (PF600) which looks promising but has a "Warning: ... not 
recommended for fiberglass..."

 

Any tips for removing the old sealant?  

 

Thanks,

 

  Jeremy

  C&C 34-1 #041 

  Vancouver BC


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List transmission

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Really, I trimmed last message...sorry Stu..
Bill Walker
Cnc 36


Sent from AOL Mobile Mail___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List wheel squeak

[David via CnC-List]

This is one area ya don't wanna mess with.  Go Edson.   I am sure Chuck wI'll 
elaborate further...



Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone


 Original message 
From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
Date: 8/27/17 9:21 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak

This brings up a good point - As for the cables, where would folks here buy 
them?  Directly from Edson (expensive) or is there a less expensive, but still 
good quality alternative (say from McMaster Carr, Grainger, etc.)?

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net



From: svpegasus38 via CnC-List 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: svpegasus38 
Sent: Saturday, August 26, 2017 2:08 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak

Had a similar thing happen sailing to Hawaii few years ago on a 1973 Ericson 
35. 500 miles from Hilo I had a steering cable break. Dug out the emergency 
tiller, and continued to sail. No anchoring here, lol. Figured out it was 
almost impossible to steer a course while looking aft at the compass, chart 
plotter was to slow to steer by. We hove to, changed the cable and sailed off 
into the sun set, well it did take all day to get to the sun set. Next morning 
at 5am the other cable broke. This time the capt was at the helm and the seas 
were in the neighborhood of 20ft instead of 4 like the day before. Hove to 
again changed the second cable. The owner had changed out the cable 3 years 
before using hardware store wire rope.
I heard from a friend, who sailed back to Victoria, that the cables broke again.
My thought was that he had too stuff of cable for the sheave  diameter.



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
Doug Mountjoy
POYC
Pegasus (for sale)
Lf38
Rebecca Leah LF39

 Original message 
From: ahycrace via CnC-List 
Date: 8/25/17 20:08 (GMT-08:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: ahycrace 
Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak

Sailing down Narragansett bay a few years ago broad reach 7kts we hear a loud 
BANG and no steering. Get the sails down and anchor. We look under the cockpit 
and see that the idler plate is so rusted that one of the pullys has pulled 
right off. Get the emergency tiller out and attach it motor homea very bad 
day! Check that plate and all of the attached pullys. Edson has all the 
replacements if needed. I have pics of the bad plate before i took it off. I 
can post them when we get home we are in Newport watching the J class boats 
race.

Gary. "Liberty"  38' Mk ll



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 Original message 
From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
Date: 8/24/17 10:08 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak

Richard,
Make sure to use a non-petroleum based lubricant for the bearings that support 
the wheel shaft (such as Superlube or other Teflon based grease).  Don’t squirt 
WD-40 or any light weight spray  lubricant into the grease holes as it will 
tend to flush any lube out of the nylon caged bearings.  You can also check to 
see if the bearings are worn if you can move the wheel shaft up and down, or 
side to side.  There should be no play in the shaft at all..

Edson does sell a “pedestal rebuild kit” that includes bearings, circlips and 
all the other thrust washers and replacement components for the wheel shaft.  
If you go down that road, I’d also take the time to replace the brake shoes if 
everything else is apart.

The other possibility for your squeaky noise is the sheave pins (axles) for the 
bronze idler wheels.  They ride on plain bushings and in the “old days” the 
axles were also bronze, which will wear out eventually and allow the sheaves to 
go flying into the bilge under tension at the worst possible time.  If those 
have never been checked, replaced with stainless pins, or lubricated as 
described in Edson’s steering maintenance instructions, I would certainly do 
so.  Once the sheave pins wear, the sheaves go out of alignment and the 
squeaking you hear may be the axles getting ready to let go.

Finally, the Edson Idler plate at the base of the pedestal is generally made of 
mild steel below the deck.  Not terribly subjected to the elements, but they 
can and will eventually start to rust.  Once that happens, sheaves, cable 
alignments and other critical steering components can be affected, so check for 
a rusty idler plate as well as wobbly sheave uprights.

Whatever you do, don’t wait for it to fail to fix it..  Boats without steering 
are not safe by any stretch of the imagination.  The folks at Edson are very 
good at walking you through what you need and they have data sheets on most 
every C&C Steering system they sold for our boats.
Cheers,
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2017 9:42 AM
To: cnc-

Re: Stus-List wheel squeak

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

I'm sure one could buy the individual components to make up a chain/wire 
steering kit at an industrial supply place like Grainger.  I'd still use 
Edson's data sheets to reference the proper length and diameter 7 by 19 
stainless wire, the right size SS chain (#50 usually), the nicopress fittings 
to connect the wire to chain, the proper clevis fitting at the chain end, and 
the right size wire rope clamps to use at the take up eye at the quadrant.  If 
you can buy each component piecemeal, there may be some savings.  But if you 
need to buy a nicopress tool, 50' of wire, 10 packs of nicopress fittings and 
10' of chain, you may not save much.
If it makes sense to buy at a discount, Defender and West Marine both offer 
Edson steering chain/cable kits in their store selection.  
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall 
Padanaram,MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 27, 2017, at 1:53 PM, David via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> This is one area ya don't wanna mess with.  Go Edson.   I am sure Chuck wI'll 
> elaborate further...
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List  
> Date: 8/27/17 9:21 AM (GMT-05:00) 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Bruce Whitmore  
> Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak 
> 
> This brings up a good point - As for the cables, where would folks here buy 
> them?  Directly from Edson (expensive) or is there a less expensive, but 
> still good quality alternative (say from McMaster Carr, Grainger, etc.)?
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
> 
> From: svpegasus38 via CnC-List 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
> Cc: svpegasus38 
> Sent: Saturday, August 26, 2017 2:08 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak
> 
> Had a similar thing happen sailing to Hawaii few years ago on a 1973 Ericson 
> 35. 500 miles from Hilo I had a steering cable break. Dug out the emergency 
> tiller, and continued to sail. No anchoring here, lol. Figured out it was 
> almost impossible to steer a course while looking aft at the compass, chart 
> plotter was to slow to steer by. We hove to, changed the cable and sailed off 
> into the sun set, well it did take all day to get to the sun set. Next 
> morning at 5am the other cable broke. This time the capt was at the helm and 
> the seas were in the neighborhood of 20ft instead of 4 like the day before. 
> Hove to again changed the second cable. The owner had changed out the cable 3 
> years before using hardware store wire rope. 
> I heard from a friend, who sailed back to Victoria, that the cables broke 
> again. 
> My thought was that he had too stuff of cable for the sheave  diameter. 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
> Doug Mountjoy 
> POYC 
> Pegasus (for sale) 
> Lf38 
> Rebecca Leah LF39 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: ahycrace via CnC-List 
> Date: 8/25/17 20:08 (GMT-08:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: ahycrace 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak
> 
> Sailing down Narragansett bay a few years ago broad reach 7kts we hear a loud 
> BANG and no steering. Get the sails down and anchor. We look under the 
> cockpit and see that the idler plate is so rusted that one of the pullys has 
> pulled right off. Get the emergency tiller out and attach it motor homea 
> very bad day! Check that plate and all of the attached pullys. Edson has all 
> the replacements if needed. I have pics of the bad plate before i took it 
> off. I can post them when we get home we are in Newport watching the J class 
> boats race.  
> 
> Gary. "Liberty"  38' Mk ll
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
> Date: 8/24/17 10:08 AM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak
> 
> Richard,
> Make sure to use a non-petroleum based lubricant for the bearings that 
> support the wheel shaft (such as Superlube or other Teflon based grease).  
> Don’t squirt WD-40 or any light weight spray  lubricant into the grease holes 
> as it will tend to flush any lube out of the nylon caged bearings.  You can 
> also check to see if the bearings are worn if you can move the wheel shaft up 
> and down, or side to side.  There should be no play in the shaft at all..
>  
> Edson does sell a “pedestal rebuild kit” that includes bearings, circlips and 
> all the other thrust washers and replacement components for the wheel shaft.  
> If you go down that road, I’d also take the time to replace the brake shoes 
> if everything else is apart.
>  
> The other possibility for your squeaky noise is the sheave pins (axles) for 
> the bronze idler wheels.  They ride on plain bushings and in the “old days” 
> the axles were also bronze, which will wear out eventually and allow the 
> sheaves to go flying into the bilge under tension at the worst possible time. 
>  If those have never been checked, replac

Stus-List Edson cable

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

Bruce, For what its worth, I had my steering cable break in a squall. I was 50 
miles civilization but maybe 5-10 miles from a sheltered cove. I could not have 
steered long with the emergency tiller and there was no way to get parts. 
The cable was loose and rode up on the quadrant wheel cutting it.You have to 
remove the steering wheel and use all your strength to steer with the emergency 
tiller. Not much fun in those conditions! 

Anyway what I did was cut the spare genoa halyard wire with a hack saw to 
repair it and right or wrong it is still working 8 years later. The wire for 
your boat is only 7 feet long on each side. I used the rest of the wire for 
spare cable and replaced my halyard with rope. Check your wire often! Your C&C 
is the easiest to maintain and repair. You don't have to crawl under the 
cockpit! 

Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On. 

Sent from my mobile device. 

> 
> 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List wheel squeak

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

I’d like to chime in and endorse Bruce and Chuck. I removed the idler plate 
assembly when I pulled the rudder and dropped the keel some years back. I 
intend to replace ALL of the system except for the quadrant which seems to be 
okay. An inspection of the idler pulleys revealed some play and corrosion. It’s 
a “cheap” fix that will make me feel much, much better when I’m off watch and 
trying to get some sleep while underway. ;-)

Go Edson. A great group of folks.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Aug 27, 2017, at 1:53 PM, David via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> This is one area ya don't wanna mess with.  Go Edson.   I am sure Chuck wI'll 
> elaborate further...
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List  
> Date: 8/27/17 9:21 AM (GMT-05:00) 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Bruce Whitmore  
> Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak 
> 
> This brings up a good point - As for the cables, where would folks here buy 
> them?  Directly from Edson (expensive) or is there a less expensive, but 
> still good quality alternative (say from McMaster Carr, Grainger, etc.)?
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
> 
> From: svpegasus38 via CnC-List 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
> Cc: svpegasus38 
> Sent: Saturday, August 26, 2017 2:08 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak
> 
> Had a similar thing happen sailing to Hawaii few years ago on a 1973 Ericson 
> 35. 500 miles from Hilo I had a steering cable break. Dug out the emergency 
> tiller, and continued to sail. No anchoring here, lol. Figured out it was 
> almost impossible to steer a course while looking aft at the compass, chart 
> plotter was to slow to steer by. We hove to, changed the cable and sailed off 
> into the sun set, well it did take all day to get to the sun set. Next 
> morning at 5am the other cable broke. This time the capt was at the helm and 
> the seas were in the neighborhood of 20ft instead of 4 like the day before. 
> Hove to again changed the second cable. The owner had changed out the cable 3 
> years before using hardware store wire rope. 
> I heard from a friend, who sailed back to Victoria, that the cables broke 
> again. 
> My thought was that he had too stuff of cable for the sheave  diameter. 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
> Doug Mountjoy 
> POYC 
> Pegasus (for sale) 
> Lf38 
> Rebecca Leah LF39 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: ahycrace via CnC-List 
> Date: 8/25/17 20:08 (GMT-08:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: ahycrace 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak
> 
> Sailing down Narragansett bay a few years ago broad reach 7kts we hear a loud 
> BANG and no steering. Get the sails down and anchor. We look under the 
> cockpit and see that the idler plate is so rusted that one of the pullys has 
> pulled right off. Get the emergency tiller out and attach it motor homea 
> very bad day! Check that plate and all of the attached pullys. Edson has all 
> the replacements if needed. I have pics of the bad plate before i took it 
> off. I can post them when we get home we are in Newport watching the J class 
> boats race.  
> 
> Gary. "Liberty"  38' Mk ll
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
> Date: 8/24/17 10:08 AM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak
> 
> Richard,
> Make sure to use a non-petroleum based lubricant for the bearings that 
> support the wheel shaft (such as Superlube or other Teflon based grease).  
> Don’t squirt WD-40 or any light weight spray  lubricant into the grease holes 
> as it will tend to flush any lube out of the nylon caged bearings.  You can 
> also check to see if the bearings are worn if you can move the wheel shaft up 
> and down, or side to side.  There should be no play in the shaft at all..
>  
> Edson does sell a “pedestal rebuild kit” that includes bearings, circlips and 
> all the other thrust washers and replacement components for the wheel shaft.  
> If you go down that road, I’d also take the time to replace the brake shoes 
> if everything else is apart.
>  
> The other possibility for your squeaky noise is the sheave pins (axles) for 
> the bronze idler wheels.  They ride on plain bushings and in the “old days” 
> the axles were also bronze, which will wear out eventually and allow the 
> sheaves to go flying into the bilge under tension at the worst possible time. 
>  If those have never been checked, replaced with stainless pins, or 
> lubricated as described in Edson’s steering maintenance instructions, I would 
> certainly do so.  Once the sheave pins wear, the sheaves go out of alignment 
> and the squeaking you hear may be the axles getting ready to let go. 
>  
> Finally, the 

Re: Stus-List Storm Harvey

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

Dennis, you're rightif this prediction is true, Harvey will end up directly 
over top of us in Louisville, KY by next Friday-Saturday...!

 

 


Richard

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Sent: Fri, Aug 25, 2017 7:57 pm
Subject: Stus-List Storm Harvey



Interesting.  Go here:  https://www.windy.com/?29.310,-94.285,7


Click the "Play" arrow at the bottom.


Dennis C.

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Alternator wiring

[Mark Miller via CnC-List]

Hi, My question is relevant I think.
I have just replaced both  alternators on my Westterbeke 33, the second 
alternator was added by the PO.  When I reconnected the wiring to the 
alternators I found there was no wires connected to the second one. Only the 
wires coming off the charging post. These have 3 connections other than the 12V 
out. They are marked L R & P. P is for  the Tach,  L is for sense wire and R is 
for the 12V to start the regulator.  I spoke to the maker and he told me to 
jump from the upper R connection to the lower one and then I wired the sense 
wire directly to the terminal on the battery bank the alternator is charging, 
(each alternator is wired to it’s own bank, one house one starter). I can cross 
charge either or both with my battery switch.  Sorry for the long winded 
question are my connections correct?

Mark Miller
SV Impeccable Chaos

Sent from Mail for Windows 10
.. 
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!