Re: Stus-List frame parts and pieces

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Jeez I hate to buy marine anything when I know there's often a "real"
application

Couldn't resist, took half a coffee, but here is the industrial equivalent
stuff.   Search on modular pipe fittings, or structural pipe fittings, or
slip on pipe fittings.

examples:

http://www.keesafety.ca/products/kee_klamp#catalogue



https://www.easyfit.com/catalog/category/add-on_fittings


The fitting that secures the longitudinal stiffening rail is called a
crossover.   Two examples, the second very similar to mine:

https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/CLAMP-ON-CROSSOVER-PIPE-SIZE-1-1-2/_/R-GGM4NXV8



http://www.hollaender.com/files/1/Tech_Data/Part_Drawings/12_1114.pdf


In my quick browse I did not see one that will work as well as the one that
came with my boat, though the hollaender unit is close.

Two reasons:
-my example is like the hollaender "short barrel cross" , a casting which
has two sections of tube (conceptually) at 90 deg to eachother. the rib
tube passes through one,the longitudinal through the other at 90 Deg.
See the grainger link below for a u-clamp version of the same thing, which
would require 3 hands to assemble.
-The fitting is secured with a single large set screw, uses a 1/4" allen
key.   Easier and quicker than a wrench.
 This allows the fitting to remain set-screwed to the rib, and the heights
and alignment can be tweaked while assembling.  the longitudinal goes in
last.

Will try to photograph and see if I can see any identification on the
casting.

Dave




On 31 December 2016 at 00:04,  wrote:

> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>1. Re:  frame parts and pieces (rshibe)
>2. Re:  frame parts and pieces (David Knecht)
>3. Re:  C&C 37+ Backstay Inspection/Improvements (Josh Muckley)
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: rshibe 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2016 23:18:16 -0500
> Subject: Re: Stus-List frame parts and pieces
> Use electrical conduit to support the  cover. Connect the framework with
> "Kover Klamps". Google; Kover Klamps where you will find pictures  that
> will show more than I can tell you. Having used them I will suggest using a
> power screw driver, it will make the job faster and less wear and tear on
> hand and wrist.
> Good luck,
> Ray Shibe
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Dave S via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, December 30, 2016 10:56 AM
> *To:* C&c Stus List 
> *Cc:* Dave S 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Quinte cover
>
>
>
> I had a cover made by Dennis at Quinte but my frame came with the boat.
> It uses aluminum tubing.  In addition to the spine and ribs, I have
> vertical posts (5?) supporting the spine.   Also, there are longitudinal
> pipes running parallel to and around a foot above the sheer, clamped to
> each leg though an appropriate cast fitting.  this keeps the ribs from
> twisting.  Additionally, I bungee cord over that longitudinal to the
> toe-rail.   Seems to work.
>
>
>
> just posted pics here:
>
>
>
> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/12/winter-cover-frame-photos.html
>
>
>
>   have a Quinte canvas winter cover with a rigid aluminum frame made out
> of 3/4 aluminum conduit. We have over 3 feet of snowfall so far and the
> frame collapses with heavy or wet snow. Does anyone have experience keeping
> their quinte frame upright? Thinking about zip ties to the lifelines.
>
> Len
> C&C 37+
> Midland On.
>
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: David Knecht 
> To: CnC CnC discussion list 
> Cc:
> Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2016 23:18:41 -0500
> Subject: Re: Stus-List frame parts and pieces
> I am late to this discussion and have not read everything, but wanted to
> report my experience.  I built a frame for my C&C 34 many years ago.  It
> was built with frame maker clamps and conduit and was strong and worked
> well. I sold it with the boat mostly as I got tired of the poly tarp tying
> problems and wanted a custom fitted cover.  But the frame itself worked
> great and there are instructions on the site for assembling a frame.  Dave
>
> http://www.framemakerclamps.com
>
> On Dec 30, 2016, at 10:40 PM, rshibe via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Look for over clamps
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Dec 30, 2016, at 15:57, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Dave –
> Do you have a source for the cast fitting connecting the longitudinal
> pipes to the leg?  Or each leg to the spine?
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-bo

Re: Stus-List frame parts and pieces

[Dave S via CnC-List]

should have googled once more before I sent the last email.

Here is the crossover fitting

https://www.walmart.com/ip/30LX29-Structural-Pipe-Fitting-Pipe-Size-2in/44953362

On 31 December 2016 at 07:47, Dave S  wrote:

> Jeez I hate to buy marine anything when I know there's often a "real"
> application
>
> Couldn't resist, took half a coffee, but here is the industrial equivalent
> stuff.   Search on modular pipe fittings, or structural pipe fittings, or
> slip on pipe fittings.
>
> examples:
>
> http://www.keesafety.ca/products/kee_klamp#catalogue
> 
>
> 
> https://www.easyfit.com/catalog/category/add-on_fittings
>
>
> The fitting that secures the longitudinal stiffening rail is called a
> crossover.   Two examples, the second very similar to mine:
>
> https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/CLAMP-ON-
> CROSSOVER-PIPE-SIZE-1-1-2/_/R-GGM4NXV8
> 
>
> 
> http://www.hollaender.com/files/1/Tech_Data/Part_Drawings/12_1114.pdf
>
>
> In my quick browse I did not see one that will work as well as the one
> that came with my boat, though the hollaender unit is close.
>
> Two reasons:
> -my example is like the hollaender "short barrel cross" , a casting which
> has two sections of tube (conceptually) at 90 deg to eachother. the rib
> tube passes through one,the longitudinal through the other at 90 Deg.
> See the grainger link below for a u-clamp version of the same thing, which
> would require 3 hands to assemble.
> -The fitting is secured with a single large set screw, uses a 1/4" allen
> key.   Easier and quicker than a wrench.
>  This allows the fitting to remain set-screwed to the rib, and the heights
> and alignment can be tweaked while assembling.  the longitudinal goes in
> last.
>
> Will try to photograph and see if I can see any identification on the
> casting.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
> On 31 December 2016 at 00:04,  wrote:
>
>> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>>
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>>
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>>
>> Today's Topics:
>>
>>1. Re:  frame parts and pieces (rshibe)
>>2. Re:  frame parts and pieces (David Knecht)
>>3. Re:  C&C 37+ Backstay Inspection/Improvements (Josh Muckley)
>>
>>
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: rshibe 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc:
>> Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2016 23:18:16 -0500
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List frame parts and pieces
>> Use electrical conduit to support the  cover. Connect the framework with
>> "Kover Klamps". Google; Kover Klamps where you will find pictures  that
>> will show more than I can tell you. Having used them I will suggest using a
>> power screw driver, it will make the job faster and less wear and tear on
>> hand and wrist.
>> Good luck,
>> Ray Shibe
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
>> ] *On Behalf Of *Dave S via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Friday, December 30, 2016 10:56 AM
>> *To:* C&c Stus List 
>> *Cc:* Dave S 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Quinte cover
>>
>>
>>
>> I had a cover made by Dennis at Quinte but my frame came with the boat.
>> It uses aluminum tubing.  In addition to the spine and ribs, I have
>> vertical posts (5?) supporting the spine.   Also, there are longitudinal
>> pipes running parallel to and around a foot above the sheer, clamped to
>> each leg though an appropriate cast fitting.  this keeps the ribs from
>> twisting.  Additionally, I bungee cord over that longitudinal to the
>> toe-rail.   Seems to work.
>>
>>
>>
>> just posted pics here:
>>
>>
>>
>> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/12/winter-cover-frame-photos.html
>>
>>
>>
>>   have a Quinte canvas winter cover with a rigid aluminum frame made out
>> of 3/4 aluminum conduit. We have over 3 feet of snowfall so far and the
>> frame collapses with heavy or wet snow. Does anyone have experience keeping
>> their quinte frame upright? Thinking about zip ties to the lifelines.
>>
>> Len
>> C&C 37+
>> Midland On.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: David Knecht 
>> To: CnC CnC discussion list 
>> Cc:
>> Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2016 23:18:41 -0500
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List frame parts and pieces
>> I am late to this discussion and have not read everything, but wanted to
>> report my experience.  I built a frame for my C&C 34 many years ago.  It
>> was built with frame maker clamps and conduit and was strong and worked
>> well. I sold it with the boat mostly as I got tired of the poly tarp tying
>> problems and wanted a custom fitted cover.  But the frame itself worked
>

Stus-List mast wedge and hatch lens

[Kevin Deluzio via CnC-List]

Hi, 
I’m in the first year of owning a 1980 C&C 30 Mk1, (- love the boat -) 
and I have a couple questions that I am hoping some of you may be able to help 
me with - thanks in advance. 

First - mast wedges
The boat came with about 3 or 4 wooden wedges about 1” x 2” x 4” that 
were wedged between the mast and the mast collar where it went through the 
deck. They were falling out most of the season. I am told that the original 
design had 4 wooden wedges that countered the mast to fill in the entire 
360degrees around the mast. Is that true? What is a best way to replace these - 
Spartite ?

Second - hatch lens replacement
The V-berth hatch lens was cracked and leaking last season. I have 
removed the lens and plan to replace it myself. Hoping that the supplier can 
cut the new one to shape using the old as a blank, or I have access to a 
bandsaw to do that part of the job. What’s the best material for this - 
Acrylic? Any advice from others who have done this job before? 

thanks
Kevin

Kevin Deluzio
1980 C&C 30
Kingston, ON,
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List mast wedge and hatch lens

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Kevin,

Cast acrylic for the lense.  A router is best.

Joel

On Sat, Dec 31, 2016 at 9:44 AM Kevin Deluzio via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I’m in the first year of owning a 1980 C&C 30 Mk1, (- love the
> boat -) and I have a couple questions that I am hoping some of you may be
> able to help me with - thanks in advance.
>
>
>
> First - mast wedges
>
> The boat came with about 3 or 4 wooden wedges about 1” x 2” x 4”
> that were wedged between the mast and the mast collar where it went through
> the deck. They were falling out most of the season. I am told that the
> original design had 4 wooden wedges that countered the mast to fill in the
> entire 360degrees around the mast. Is that true? What is a best way to
> replace these - Spartite ?
>
>
>
> Second - hatch lens replacement
>
> The V-berth hatch lens was cracked and leaking last season. I have
> removed the lens and plan to replace it myself. Hoping that the supplier
> can cut the new one to shape using the old as a blank, or I have access to
> a bandsaw to do that part of the job. What’s the best material for this -
> Acrylic? Any advice from others who have done this job before?
>
>
>
> thanks
>
> Kevin
>
>
>
> Kevin Deluzio
>
> 1980 C&C 30
>
> Kingston, ON,
>
> ___
>
>
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List mast wedge and hatch lens

[Derek McLeod via CnC-List]

Hi,

Mast wedges - On my 29-2, there are 6 wooden wedges that go around the entire 
perimeter of the mast and fit inside the collar. They are made with a lip that 
sits on top of the collar so they can't fall in. They need to be hammered in 
and out since they fit quite snug. They are covered with a nasty white vinyl 
cover that I'd like to replace. 

Hatch lenses - I've now replaced all the fixed port lights and Lewmar hatch 
lenses on my boat, along with the companionway pieces, both of which are 
acrylic. I used 3/8" bronze tinted acrylic from Plastic World and a 4'x8' sheet 
netted enough for everything. I picked up a case of black Dow 795 from an 
industrial supplier and have used that for everything that required a seal. In 
the case of the hatches, I carefully removed the old lens and carefully removed 
the gasket to avoid tearing it. Again carefully cleaned the old adhesive off 
the gasket and then cleaned it up with isopropyl alcohol. The old lens was used 
as a template for the new one and cut rough with a tablesaw and then trimmed 
flush with a router and template bit. Then cleaned the frame with isopropyl 
alcohol and adhered the new lens with the 795. I also used it to fill the 
perimeter gap between the lens and frame. It seems to stick to the old rubber 
gasket, aluminum frame and new acrylic just fine. They have held up for the 
last two seasons without any issue. 

Derek McLeod 
Aileron 
1983 C&C 29-2
Toronto

> On Dec 31, 2016, at 9:43 AM, Kevin Deluzio  wrote:
> 
> Hi, 
>I’m in the first year of owning a 1980 C&C 30 Mk1, (- love the boat -) and 
> I have a couple questions that I am hoping some of you may be able to help me 
> with - thanks in advance. 
> 
> First - mast wedges
>The boat came with about 3 or 4 wooden wedges about 1” x 2” x 4” that were 
> wedged between the mast and the mast collar where it went through the deck. 
> They were falling out most of the season. I am told that the original design 
> had 4 wooden wedges that countered the mast to fill in the entire 360degrees 
> around the mast. Is that true? What is a best way to replace these - Spartite 
> ?
> 
> Second - hatch lens replacement
>The V-berth hatch lens was cracked and leaking last season. I have removed 
> the lens and plan to replace it myself. Hoping that the supplier can cut the 
> new one to shape using the old as a blank, or I have access to a bandsaw to 
> do that part of the job. What’s the best material for this - Acrylic? Any 
> advice from others who have done this job before? 
> 
> thanks
> Kevin
> 
> Kevin Deluzio
> 1980 C&C 30
> Kingston, ON,
> 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List mast wedge and hatch lens

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

Welcome aboard. Nice boat ;-)

I have tried a few things for the mast wedges. Last year I purchased a small 
roll of heavy rubber floor mat
from Princess Auto ( was on a bulk roll, cut a minimum 1' off ). I cut it into 
two pads since I have a hold down
clamp on both sides. They are a snug fit covering the front and rear of the 
mast up the sides to the clamp.
Worked well, stayed in and did not crush but allowed a small amount of motion.

For a hatch replacement the two main choices are Acrylic and Polycarbonate. I 
would guess Acrylic is a
common choice, I have worked with a small shop locally on a few projects. They 
do boat work including
large windshields, small stuff like instrument panels. 

If interested contact Dale here:

http://www.acryliccustomdesign.com/

They have a high end flat bed laser cutting system and Acrylic specific 
machining tools. They can make
stuff from drawings if required.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1



From: Kevin Deluzio  

 
Hi,  
     I?m in the first year of owning a 1980 C&C 30 Mk1, (- love the boat -) and 
I have a couple questions that I am hoping some of you may be able to help me 
with - thanks in advance.  
 
First - mast wedges 
     The boat came with about 3 or 4 wooden wedges about 1? x 2? x 4? that were 
wedged between the mast and the mast collar where it went through the deck. 
They were falling out most of the season. I am told that the original design 
had 4 wooden wedges that countered the mast to fill in the entire 360degrees 
around the mast. Is that true? What is a best way to replace these - Spartite ? 
 
Second - hatch lens replacement 
     The V-berth hatch lens was cracked and leaking last season. I have removed 
the lens and plan to replace it myself. Hoping that the supplier can cut the 
new one to shape using the old as a blank, or I have access to a bandsaw to do 
that part of the job. What?s the best material for this - Acrylic? Any advice 
from others who have done this job before?  
 
thanks 
Kevin 
 
Kevin Deluzio 
1980 C&C 30 
Kingston, ON, 
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List mast wedge and hatch lens

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

My 1980 version (#593) has six wedges at the partners. They are about 1 1/2 
inches square and have a taper on one side which is about 3/4 inch at the 
bottom and stops half way up where it is about 1/2 inch in from the side. - 
look a bit like a "J" - and are about 4 to 5 inches long. Mine appear to be 
oak. One is in the front of the collar, one in back, and two on each side.

Gary
St. Michaels MD

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin 
Deluzio via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2016 9:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kevin Deluzio 
Subject: Stus-List mast wedge and hatch lens

Hi, 
I’m in the first year of owning a 1980 C&C 30 Mk1, (- love the boat -) 
and I have a couple questions that I am hoping some of you may be able to help 
me with - thanks in advance. 

First - mast wedges
The boat came with about 3 or 4 wooden wedges about 1” x 2” x 4” that 
were wedged between the mast and the mast collar where it went through the 
deck. They were falling out most of the season. I am told that the original 
design had 4 wooden wedges that countered the mast to fill in the entire 
360degrees around the mast. Is that true? What is a best way to replace these - 
Spartite ?

Second - hatch lens replacement
The V-berth hatch lens was cracked and leaking last season. I have 
removed the lens and plan to replace it myself. Hoping that the supplier can 
cut the new one to shape using the old as a blank, or I have access to a 
bandsaw to do that part of the job. What’s the best material for this - 
Acrylic? Any advice from others who have done this job before? 

thanks
Kevin

Kevin Deluzio
1980 C&C 30
Kingston, ON,
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Quinte cover - now frame parts and pieces

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the replies, you guys are awesome! This cover has been on for 8 
winters and the boat has been on the hard since September. I will probably try 
Kover Klamps after some more research with the links supplied. They are 5$ each 
and can be retrofit with the tarp in place. I may be incorrect and the conduit 
1 inch but will deal with it soon. All the best in the new year! 
Len

Sent from my iPad

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Foul weather gear

[Adam Hayden via CnC-List]

Happy new year everyone!I would be interested in people's opinion on foul 
weather gear.  I am looking to replace upgrade my Gil coastal cruising coat.   
It seems that it is no longer water repellant and reapplying the waterproofing 
doesn't work. I like a number of the features on the coat but I feel it should 
last more than 3 full seasons.Up here in Nova Scotia we have pretty cool 
and damp weather so for a lot of the season I wear my gear.   I won't be doing 
any ocean crossings but we sail well into October as well.  
I don't have a Bimini and am usually the one at the helm during inclement 
weather


Adam Hayden
C&C 36

 
Sent from my iPhone
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List mast wedge and hatch lens

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Kevin;

The mast wedges on my 1976 38 mk2 are intended to be put in from the top of the 
mast collar I believe. At least that is the way that they have been installed 
since I bought the boat in 2003. The wedges are about the dimensions that you 
cite, but have a "lip" about 1/2" tall that sticks up from the non-tapered end 
of the wedge and rests on the top edge of the mast collar (without protruding 
outside of it) to keep them from sliding down. They are thick enough that the 
last two or three to be inserted need to be tapped in with a hammer - tapped 
not driven, so the fit is snug but not what I would term tight or an 
interference fit.

I've thought about going the Spartite route. If I pulled my mast every year or 
so, as folks in some areas do, I'd go with Spartite. But I've only had the mast 
out when I first bought the boat in 2003 for wiring and new instruments, and 
when I rerigged in about 2010, so it doesn't seem worth the effort to change 
now. 

When I rebuilt the 27" A&H foredeck hatch several years ago, I went to a local 
glass shop to obtain the new lens. The shop stocked cast acrylic in 1/4" 
thickness for use in storm doors and windows. I'm told that most do. They had 
to order the material for my hatch because it is quite thick (3/8, 7/16, or 
1/2", I can't recall exactly which) and I wanted a particularly dark tint. They 
took my old hatch lens and duplicated it ... Including machining in the 
recesses for the seals around the holes where the shaft of the hatch dogs/knobs 
go through the lens and the holes in the corners that have the retaining screws 
used to hold the lens in place while the sealant cures. I was frankly surprised 
at the reasonable cost (maybe $100-150, but I can't find the receipt) and there 
is no way I could have machined the various holes and seal recessed with the 
same accuracy.

The hardest part of the job turned out to be getting the old silicone the PO 
had tried to use to seal the hatch leak out of the frame so the Sika 295 
sealant recommended by the list would bond to the frame as well as the new lens.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin 
Deluzio via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2016 9:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kevin Deluzio 
Subject: Stus-List mast wedge and hatch lens

Hi, 
I’m in the first year of owning a 1980 C&C 30 Mk1, (- love the boat -) 
and I have a couple questions that I am hoping some of you may be able to help 
me with - thanks in advance. 

First - mast wedges
The boat came with about 3 or 4 wooden wedges about 1” x 2” x 4” that 
were wedged between the mast and the mast collar where it went through the 
deck. They were falling out most of the season. I am told that the original 
design had 4 wooden wedges that countered the mast to fill in the entire 
360degrees around the mast. Is that true? What is a best way to replace these - 
Spartite ?

Second - hatch lens replacement
The V-berth hatch lens was cracked and leaking last season. I have 
removed the lens and plan to replace it myself. Hoping that the supplier can 
cut the new one to shape using the old as a blank, or I have access to a 
bandsaw to do that part of the job. What’s the best material for this - 
Acrylic? Any advice from others who have done this job before? 

thanks
Kevin

Kevin Deluzio
1980 C&C 30
Kingston, ON,
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Foul weather gear

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I'm happy with my Helly Hansen gear.  I sail all year round, and in the
ocean.  The jacket is fleece lined and you can buy a separate fleece
sweater that zips in for additional warmth.  You can also use the fleece
sweater by itself.  I've had this outfit for more than ten years.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk iii Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Sat, Dec 31, 2016 at 10:05 AM, Adam Hayden via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Happy new year everyone!I would be interested in people's opinion on
> foul weather gear.  I am looking to replace upgrade my Gil coastal cruising
> coat.   It seems that it is no longer water repellant and reapplying the
> waterproofing doesn't work. I like a number of the features on the coat but
> I feel it should last more than 3 full seasons.Up here in Nova Scotia
> we have pretty cool and damp weather so for a lot of the season I wear my
> gear.   I won't be doing any ocean crossings but we sail well into October
> as well.
> I don't have a Bimini and am usually the one at the helm during inclement
> weather
>
>
> Adam Hayden
> C&C 36
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.
> paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN
> 0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=
> 4sbunYZSLy5KPgaiCHSgmcfRtI1dbcE0gEKFdiYkM6U&s=
> ftIIDPqj1LvqJWCTl1P87tKZAvhuRecniOk4kmRyOGo&e=
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>



-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List mast wedge and hatch lens

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Hi Kevin, welcome, and nice choice of boat :) 

Regarding mast wedges, I had the same issue. Boat came with a variety of wooden 
mast wedges that fell out all season. So this offseason I bought a dozen of the 
NGA-18 from Rig-Rite ( http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Mast_wedges.html 
) after measuring very carefully and drawing a diagram on graph paper (scanned 
and uploaded to https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTNWp6NHN6TEM4Q0E ) 
and concluding those were the right size for my boat (a 1972 30-1). 

One other tip: if you're stepping the mast, be careful to get it perfectly 
centered fore-and-aft in the mast box. I didn't do that well enough last year, 
which may have contributed to the wedges not fitting well enough (I had to 
unstep & re-step the mast because I bought the boat a year ago and towed it 300 
miles). This offseason I'm making some blocks with teak scraps from my handrail 
replacement project to help center the mast once I step it in the spring - my 
rig is down again for other offseason projects. 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C&C 30-1 Hull #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

- Original Message -

From: "Kevin Deluzio via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Kevin Deluzio"  
Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2016 7:43:22 AM 
Subject: Stus-List mast wedge and hatch lens 

Hi, 
I’m in the first year of owning a 1980 C&C 30 Mk1, (- love the boat -) and I 
have a couple questions that I am hoping some of you may be able to help me 
with - thanks in advance. 

First - mast wedges 
The boat came with about 3 or 4 wooden wedges about 1” x 2” x 4” that were 
wedged between the mast and the mast collar where it went through the deck. 
They were falling out most of the season. I am told that the original design 
had 4 wooden wedges that countered the mast to fill in the entire 360degrees 
around the mast. Is that true? What is a best way to replace these - Spartite ? 

Second - hatch lens replacement 
The V-berth hatch lens was cracked and leaking last season. I have removed the 
lens and plan to replace it myself. Hoping that the supplier can cut the new 
one to shape using the old as a blank, or I have access to a bandsaw to do that 
part of the job. What’s the best material for this - Acrylic? Any advice from 
others who have done this job before? 

thanks 
Kevin 

Kevin Deluzio 
1980 C&C 30 
Kingston, ON, 
___ 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 

All Contributions are greatly appreciated! 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Foul weather gear

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Adam,
I've had a Helly Hansen inshore coat for the past 12 years since Helly
Hansen guarantees their gear waterproof for the life of the garment.  It has
been replaced once under warrantee but I only paid freight for the new one
(which was also a newer model).  It isn't necessarily warm, but is loose
fitting enough for me to layer up underneath.  I don't expect a summer
weight rain and spray resistant garment to keep me warm in the shoulder
seasons.

 The "name" brands such as Gill, Musto, Helly Hansen, and Henri Lloyd all
make gear with offshore features and they charge appropriately large dough
for the feature packed garments.  I've also found huge variation in sizing
even within a particular brand of coat, so it is wise to try it on before
purchase or make sure the retailer has a liberal return policy.  My
"vintage" Helly Hansen coat is a size medium with room to spare, while my
Henri Lloyd bibs are a tight Large..

The other option is to shop the bargains (APS has a 25% off one item sale
that ends today for example) such as the Defender warehouse sale in March.
I'm not sure who has the best deals on gear up in NS, but even companies
such as LL Bean, Land's End, EMS, and REI make breathable hiking,
mountaineering and camping foul weather clothing that will keep you warm and
dry on a boat.  They just may not have as much reflective or high visibility
fabrics.
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 LF
Padanaram, MA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Adam
Hayden via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2016 1:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Adam Hayden 
Subject: Stus-List Foul weather gear


Happy new year everyone!I would be interested in people's opinion on
foul weather gear.  I am looking to replace upgrade my Gil coastal cruising
coat.   It seems that it is no longer water repellant and reapplying the
waterproofing doesn't work. I like a number of the features on the coat but
I feel it should last more than 3 full seasons.Up here in Nova Scotia we
have pretty cool and damp weather so for a lot of the season I wear my gear.
I won't be doing any ocean crossings but we sail well into October as well.

I don't have a Bimini and am usually the one at the helm during inclement
weather


Adam Hayden
C&C 36

 
Sent from my iPhone
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List mast wedge and hatch lens

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Kevin:

   My 34 (former boat) and 42 (current boat) both had mast wedges when I 
purchased them.  I promptly got rid of them and made a spartite plug (both 
at the partners and in the mast step box).  Very secure.  Makes me less 
anxious pounding through 8-10 foot seas on Lake Erie.


   I also replaced a few hatch lenses.  Lexan is strong but scratches 
easily, so most hatches are made from acrylic.  I had mine done 
professionally by an auto windshield repair shop, but I had to buy the 
acrylic.  Make sure you leave a space between the acrylic edge and the 
aluminum frame (filled with sealant) to allow the dissimilar materials to 
expand/contract at different rates.  I now bring my monster hatch home for 
the winter because the replacement lens popped out when the temp dropped 
to -15 F a couple years ago.


   Good luck.

-Original Message- 
From: Kevin Deluzio via CnC-List

Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2016 9:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kevin Deluzio
Subject: Stus-List mast wedge and hatch lens

Hi,
I’m in the first year of owning a 1980 C&C 30 Mk1, (- love the boat -) and I 
have a couple questions that I am hoping some of you may be able to help me 
with - thanks in advance.


First - mast wedges
The boat came with about 3 or 4 wooden wedges about 1” x 2” x 4” that were 
wedged between the mast and the mast collar where it went through the deck. 
They were falling out most of the season. I am told that the original design 
had 4 wooden wedges that countered the mast to fill in the entire 360degrees 
around the mast. Is that true? What is a best way to replace these - 
Spartite ?


Second - hatch lens replacement
The V-berth hatch lens was cracked and leaking last season. I have removed 
the lens and plan to replace it myself. Hoping that the supplier can cut the 
new one to shape using the old as a blank, or I have access to a bandsaw to 
do that part of the job. What’s the best material for this - Acrylic? Any 
advice from others who have done this job before?


thanks
Kevin

Kevin Deluzio
1980 C&C 30
Kingston, ON,
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


All Contributions are greatly appreciated! 



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Foul weather gear

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

My go-to foulies are Henri-Lloyd. Bought them maybe 10 years ago. Had used
Columbia Titanium rain gear bought cheaply at a Columbia outlet store near
my folks' home from sometime in the 90s until I bought the Henri-Lloyd stuff
when I started sailing offshore.

After several years - maybe 7 or 8 - the Henri-Lloyd coat was getting pretty
dirty. I made the mistake of washing it (used Woolite, thinking that would
be mild) and the coat was cleaner (though not as good as new) but that
removed the waterproofing. Called Henri-Lloyd to see what they recommended.
They sell a kit with a cleaner and restorer for about US $13. You wash the
garments in warm water and the cleaner solution and let it air dry. Then you
rewash it in the restorer solution. Does a good job of both cleaning (though
it is still not like new) and making the items waterproof again.

Perhaps you could call Gill and see if they have a similar
cleaning/waterproofing kit; or call Henri-Lloyd to see if they can tell you
if the kit they sell will work on your current foulies?

BTW, since I bought online from Henri-Lloyd North America
(http://www.henrilloydonline.com/) they put me on a list for notifications.
I've since discovered that they have periodic sales and closeouts during the
year, often short term promotions tied to holidays it seems. Since I've lost
a chunk of weight over the last two years my old foulies were getting quite
large and I decided to replace them with a smaller size. I recently bought a
$295 Freedom coat (which they recommend for offshore/near coastal sailing)
during one of the sales for just over $100, and a pair of bibs for less. I
also bought a couple of Gore-Tex rain jackets for less than $80 each and
keep one at home and one in the office of the marina I manage. You might
want to create an account with them so you get notifications of the sales,
in case you want to replace or supplement your old gear.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC






-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Adam
Hayden via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2016 1:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Adam Hayden 
Subject: Stus-List Foul weather gear


Happy new year everyone!I would be interested in people's opinion on
foul weather gear.  I am looking to replace upgrade my Gil coastal cruising
coat.   It seems that it is no longer water repellant and reapplying the
waterproofing doesn't work. I like a number of the features on the coat but
I feel it should last more than 3 full seasons.Up here in Nova Scotia we
have pretty cool and damp weather so for a lot of the season I wear my gear.
I won't be doing any ocean crossings but we sail well into October as well.

I don't have a Bimini and am usually the one at the helm during inclement
weather


Adam Hayden
C&C 36

 
Sent from my iPhone
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Quinte cover - now frame parts and pieces

[rshibe via CnC-List]

I think Kover Klamps are available from Defender as well as the Kover Klamp web 
site.
 Ray Shibe

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 31, 2016, at 12:02, Len Mitchell via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Thanks for all the replies, you guys are awesome! This cover has been on for 
> 8 winters and the boat has been on the hard since September. I will probably 
> try Kover Klamps after some more research with the links supplied. They are 
> 5$ each and can be retrofit with the tarp in place. I may be incorrect and 
> the conduit 1 inch but will deal with it soon. All the best in the new year! 
> Len
> 


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Mast Chocks

[colin binkley via CnC-List]

IMHO the chokes are used to begin establishing rake when setting the main mast. 
Colin
71 40C #3
Lindsey Layne 


Sent from my iPhone

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Thank you and unsubscribe

[TOM VINCENT via CnC-List]

Stu,


I would like to thank you for making the forum available and wish you a very 
special New Year.


As I have sold my C&C, I would like to unsubscribe to the forum.


Thank you,


Tom Vincent
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List mast wedge - now seal

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Derek;

As I mentioned in another post, the wedges on my 38 are like yours.

Regarding the seal around your mast. Several years ago I upgraded to a mast 
seal made of black rubber from a tractor/truck inner tube. Made a paper pattern 
to fit the mast and the collar on the mast partners, then cut out a section of 
the rubber long enough to overlap and seal the ends with rubber contact cement, 
and wide enough to accommodate extra-long band clamps around the mast and 
partners. Then I took the paper pattern and a bit of scrap Sunbrella to a local 
seamstress and she made me cover that matches the canvas on my boat and 
protects the rubber from UV. 

The inner tube material came from a local tire store that I went to try to buy 
a car sized inner tube. Garden tractor size tubes aren't big enough. Seems that 
in the age of tubeless tires car sized tubes aren't readily available. But the 
tire shop was more than happy to give me the old tubes out of a couple of 
tractor tires for nothing. So I have more than a lifetime supply of rubber out 
in the garage, even after cutting a couple of spares to keep on the boat 
against future replacements.

I've offered to supply rubber segments to listers before, and the offer still 
stands. If you'd like some, just tell me how much you need and I'll be glad to 
send you some. No charge. Just make a small contribution to Stu to cover the 
cost of shipping.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC





-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Derek McLeod 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2016 10:42 AM
To: Kevin Deluzio 
Cc: Derek McLeod ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List mast wedge and hatch lens

Hi,

Mast wedges - On my 29-2, there are 6 wooden wedges that go around the entire 
perimeter of the mast and fit inside the collar. They are made with a lip that 
sits on top of the collar so they can't fall in. They need to be hammered in 
and out since they fit quite snug. They are covered with a nasty white vinyl 
cover that I'd like to replace. 



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fwd: Navtec 10 Series 7

[David via CnC-List]

No a place in Woburn, MA.


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



From: CnC-List  on behalf of Michael Cotton via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2016 3:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Cotton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Navtec 10 Series 7

Was that Tri-Power in Warwick?


On Friday, December 30, 2016 12:49 PM, David via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I took mine to a truck repair  shop after I paid a "Navtec Approved" repair 
shop $500 only have it fail again in 14 months...no warranty so I was stuck 
with another large bill.   Didnt trust the repair so before going offshore 
brought it to the truck shop to inspect and test.   What cost $500 would have 
cost $100 there.

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dave Godwin via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2016 11:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave Godwin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Navtec 10 Series 7

My original Navtec is in the shop right now. The highest price estimated was 
$500 but both my rigger and the hydraulic guy said that would be worst case 
scenario. For cost comparison purposes I asked if getting a new adjuster made 
sense and the rigger said repair was the way to go. Which was my choice. The 
rigger did recommend Sailtec as really good units.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin's Overdue Refit

On Dec 30, 2016, at 10:08 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Replacing the seals is ~ $300 and any decent hydraulic shop can do it. If the 
piston sleeve is scored (unlikely), its junk. Otherwise, a seal replacement 
makes it perform like new.

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb

cenel...@aol.com


-Original Message-
From: Dave via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: John McKay mailto:jmckay...@yahoo.ca>>
Cc: Dave mailto:syerd...@gmail.com>>; cnc-list 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Fri, Dec 30, 2016 10:02 am
Subject: Stus-List Fwd: Navtec 10 Series 7

John, have taken the liberty of forwarding this to the Cnc list.

Subject: Re: Navtec 10 Series 7

John,

When you say failed, I assume that you mean the seals now don't.
If so, Plenty of industrial hydraulics places in the GTA - would expect they 
could fix?

FYI - windstar (33-2) has no hydraulic adjuster, and if I understand correctly 
the baby stay is intended used to control mast bend, similar to backstab 
adjuster.  Perhaps the adjuster was an 'owner-upgrade'?  Did the PO happen to 
include the original part?  (Look for a 1/2" stainless rod around 12" and 
toggles etc...)

Good luck, dave.


Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 30, 2016, at 9:35 AM, John McKay 
mailto:jmckay...@yahoo.ca>> wrote:



The Navtec backstay adjuster failed on Enterprise this summer.

I know South Shore can repair it but it is a fairly expensive repair and 
searching on the net, most say a repair does not last that long.

Has anyone replaced their adjuster?

With what?

Approximate cost?

Or if repaired, where?

Guys around my yacht club says it is an easy fix, but they are mechanically 
inclined!

Thanks and Happy New Years

John on Enterprise
Komoka




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Foul weather gear

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Gill has a lifetime warranty.

Send it back for new coat.

Joel


On Sat, Dec 31, 2016 at 2:34 PM Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My go-to foulies are Henri-Lloyd. Bought them maybe 10 years ago. Had used
>
> Columbia Titanium rain gear bought cheaply at a Columbia outlet store near
>
> my folks' home from sometime in the 90s until I bought the Henri-Lloyd
> stuff
>
> when I started sailing offshore.
>
>
>
> After several years - maybe 7 or 8 - the Henri-Lloyd coat was getting
> pretty
>
> dirty. I made the mistake of washing it (used Woolite, thinking that would
>
> be mild) and the coat was cleaner (though not as good as new) but that
>
> removed the waterproofing. Called Henri-Lloyd to see what they recommended.
>
> They sell a kit with a cleaner and restorer for about US $13. You wash the
>
> garments in warm water and the cleaner solution and let it air dry. Then
> you
>
> rewash it in the restorer solution. Does a good job of both cleaning
> (though
>
> it is still not like new) and making the items waterproof again.
>
>
>
> Perhaps you could call Gill and see if they have a similar
>
> cleaning/waterproofing kit; or call Henri-Lloyd to see if they can tell you
>
> if the kit they sell will work on your current foulies?
>
>
>
> BTW, since I bought online from Henri-Lloyd North America
>
> (http://www.henrilloydonline.com/) they put me on a list for
> notifications.
>
> I've since discovered that they have periodic sales and closeouts during
> the
>
> year, often short term promotions tied to holidays it seems. Since I've
> lost
>
> a chunk of weight over the last two years my old foulies were getting quite
>
> large and I decided to replace them with a smaller size. I recently bought
> a
>
> $295 Freedom coat (which they recommend for offshore/near coastal sailing)
>
> during one of the sales for just over $100, and a pair of bibs for less. I
>
> also bought a couple of Gore-Tex rain jackets for less than $80 each and
>
> keep one at home and one in the office of the marina I manage. You might
>
> want to create an account with them so you get notifications of the sales,
>
> in case you want to replace or supplement your old gear.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Adam
>
> Hayden via CnC-List
>
> Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2016 1:06 PM
>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> Cc: Adam Hayden 
>
> Subject: Stus-List Foul weather gear
>
>
>
>
>
> Happy new year everyone!I would be interested in people's opinion on
>
> foul weather gear.  I am looking to replace upgrade my Gil coastal cruising
>
> coat.   It seems that it is no longer water repellant and reapplying the
>
> waterproofing doesn't work. I like a number of the features on the coat but
>
> I feel it should last more than 3 full seasons.Up here in Nova Scotia
> we
>
> have pretty cool and damp weather so for a lot of the season I wear my
> gear.
>
> I won't be doing any ocean crossings but we sail well into October as well.
>
>
>
> I don't have a Bimini and am usually the one at the helm during inclement
>
> weather
>
>
>
>
>
> Adam Hayden
>
> C&C 36
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ___
>
>
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish
>
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
>
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Foul weather gear

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

All the majors make similar decent foulies.  They all fall apart after
several years left on a boat in hot weather.

My opinions:

I have two conflicting opinions.

Opinion 1: If you are going to take them off the boat after each use, then
don't buy LESS than you need.  That is, if you are primarily an inshore
sailor, consider moving up to coastal foulies.  If you are a coastal
sailor, consider offshore.

Opinion 2:  If you are going to leave them on the boat, buy exactly what
you need or maybe less but replace them more often.  I'd rather have a new
inshore foulie that works rather than an offshore foulie that's
deteriorated with age.

What ever you buy, don't buy ANY foul weather gear with an exposed
waterproof layer.  This usually isn't the case with marine foulies.
However, some recreational rain gear has the waterproof layer that is
bonded to the inside of the jacket exposed.  This is a poor design.  Body
oils from your neck area will cause the waterproof layer to delaminate
fairly quickly.  Make sure that any jacket you buy has a liner to protect
the waterproof layer.

The other advice is the zipper.  If you absolutely hate a European zipper,
buy Gills or some American brand.  Many European foulie jackets have a
"left handed" zipper.

The Admiral I have Musto BR1 inshore foulies and love them.  We do not
leave them on the boat.  I had Henri LLoyd TP race foulies before.  I left
them on the boat 24/7/365.  They lasted 10-12 years.  Same for some Helly
Hansens.  Not dinging any brand.  My opinion is that if you leave foulies
on the boat, they will deteriorate in 10-12 years.

However, I sail primarily on the Gulf Coast.  More often than not, our foul
weather gear in this area is quick dry shorts and a T-shirt.  :)

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sat, Dec 31, 2016 at 12:05 PM, Adam Hayden via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Happy new year everyone!I would be interested in people's opinion on
> foul weather gear.  I am looking to replace upgrade my Gil coastal cruising
> coat.   It seems that it is no longer water repellant and reapplying the
> waterproofing doesn't work. I like a number of the features on the coat but
> I feel it should last more than 3 full seasons.Up here in Nova Scotia
> we have pretty cool and damp weather so for a lot of the season I wear my
> gear.   I won't be doing any ocean crossings but we sail well into October
> as well.
> I don't have a Bimini and am usually the one at the helm during inclement
> weather
>
>
> Adam Hayden
> C&C 36
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fwd: Navtec 10 Series 7

[Harry Hallgring Jr via CnC-List]

Rig Pro about $160 per unit for a seal kit, new rod, double it. 
Do it yourself, $20
http://www.southernspars.com/

Harry
Sent from my iPhone 8 beta

> On Dec 31, 2016, at 15:14, David via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> No a place in Woburn, MA.   
> 
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> 
> 
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Michael Cotton 
> via CnC-List 
> Sent: Friday, December 30, 2016 3:39 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Michael Cotton
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Navtec 10 Series 7
>  
> Was that Tri-Power in Warwick?
> 
> 
> On Friday, December 30, 2016 12:49 PM, David via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I took mine to a truck repair  shop after I paid a "Navtec Approved" repair 
> shop $500 only have it fail again in 14 months...no warranty so I was stuck 
> with another large bill.   Didnt trust the repair so before going offshore 
> brought it to the truck shop to inspect and test.   What cost $500 would have 
> cost $100 there.
> 
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> 
> 
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dave Godwin via 
> CnC-List 
> Sent: Friday, December 30, 2016 11:25 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Dave Godwin
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Navtec 10 Series 7
>  
> My original Navtec is in the shop right now. The highest price estimated was 
> $500 but both my rigger and the hydraulic guy said that would be worst case 
> scenario. For cost comparison purposes I asked if getting a new adjuster made 
> sense and the rigger said repair was the way to go. Which was my choice. The 
> rigger did recommend Sailtec as really good units.
> 
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit
> 
>> On Dec 30, 2016, at 10:08 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Replacing the seals is ~ $300 and any decent hydraulic shop can do it. If 
>> the piston sleeve is scored (unlikely), its junk. Otherwise, a seal 
>> replacement makes it perform like new.
>>  
>> Charlie Nelson
>> Water Phantom
>> 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
>>  
>> cenel...@aol.com
>>  
>>  
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Dave via CnC-List 
>> To: John McKay 
>> Cc: Dave ; cnc-list 
>> Sent: Fri, Dec 30, 2016 10:02 am
>> Subject: Stus-List Fwd: Navtec 10 Series 7
>> 
>> John, have taken the liberty of forwarding this to the Cnc list.
>> 
>> Subject: Re: Navtec 10 Series 7
>> 
>> John,
>> 
>> When you say failed, I assume that you mean the seals now don't.
>> If so, Plenty of industrial hydraulics places in the GTA - would expect they 
>> could fix?  
>> 
>> FYI - windstar (33-2) has no hydraulic adjuster, and if I understand 
>> correctly the baby stay is intended used to control mast bend, similar to 
>> backstab adjuster.  Perhaps the adjuster was an 'owner-upgrade'?  Did the PO 
>> happen to include the original part?  (Look for a 1/2" stainless rod around 
>> 12" and toggles etc...)
>> 
>> Good luck, dave.
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> On Dec 30, 2016, at 9:35 AM, John McKay  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> The Navtec backstay adjuster failed on Enterprise this summer.
>> 
>> I know South Shore can repair it but it is a fairly expensive repair and 
>> searching on the net, most say a repair does not last that long.
>> 
>> Has anyone replaced their adjuster?
>> 
>> With what?
>> 
>> Approximate cost?
>> 
>> Or if repaired, where?
>> 
>> Guys around my yacht club says it is an easy fix, but they are mechanically 
>> inclined!
>> 
>> Thanks and Happy New Years
>> 
>> John on Enterprise
>> Komoka
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!