Kevin;

The mast wedges on my 1976 38 mk2 are intended to be put in from the top of the 
mast collar I believe. At least that is the way that they have been installed 
since I bought the boat in 2003. The wedges are about the dimensions that you 
cite, but have a "lip" about 1/2" tall that sticks up from the non-tapered end 
of the wedge and rests on the top edge of the mast collar (without protruding 
outside of it) to keep them from sliding down. They are thick enough that the 
last two or three to be inserted need to be tapped in with a hammer - tapped 
not driven, so the fit is snug but not what I would term tight or an 
interference fit.

I've thought about going the Spartite route. If I pulled my mast every year or 
so, as folks in some areas do, I'd go with Spartite. But I've only had the mast 
out when I first bought the boat in 2003 for wiring and new instruments, and 
when I rerigged in about 2010, so it doesn't seem worth the effort to change 
now. 

When I rebuilt the 27" A&H foredeck hatch several years ago, I went to a local 
glass shop to obtain the new lens. The shop stocked cast acrylic in 1/4" 
thickness for use in storm doors and windows. I'm told that most do. They had 
to order the material for my hatch because it is quite thick (3/8, 7/16, or 
1/2", I can't recall exactly which) and I wanted a particularly dark tint. They 
took my old hatch lens and duplicated it ... Including machining in the 
recesses for the seals around the holes where the shaft of the hatch dogs/knobs 
go through the lens and the holes in the corners that have the retaining screws 
used to hold the lens in place while the sealant cures. I was frankly surprised 
at the reasonable cost (maybe $100-150, but I can't find the receipt) and there 
is no way I could have machined the various holes and seal recessed with the 
same accuracy.

The hardest part of the job turned out to be getting the old silicone the PO 
had tried to use to seal the hatch leak out of the frame so the Sika 295 
sealant recommended by the list would bond to the frame as well as the new lens.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC


-----Original Message-----
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin 
Deluzio via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2016 9:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kevin Deluzio <kevin.delu...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List mast wedge and hatch lens

Hi, 
        I’m in the first year of owning a 1980 C&C 30 Mk1, (- love the boat -) 
and I have a couple questions that I am hoping some of you may be able to help 
me with - thanks in advance. 

First - mast wedges
        The boat came with about 3 or 4 wooden wedges about 1” x 2” x 4” that 
were wedged between the mast and the mast collar where it went through the 
deck. They were falling out most of the season. I am told that the original 
design had 4 wooden wedges that countered the mast to fill in the entire 
360degrees around the mast. Is that true? What is a best way to replace these - 
Spartite ?

Second - hatch lens replacement
        The V-berth hatch lens was cracked and leaking last season. I have 
removed the lens and plan to replace it myself. Hoping that the supplier can 
cut the new one to shape using the old as a blank, or I have access to a 
bandsaw to do that part of the job. What’s the best material for this - 
Acrylic? Any advice from others who have done this job before? 

thanks
Kevin

Kevin Deluzio
1980 C&C 30
Kingston, ON,
_______________________________________________

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


_______________________________________________

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Reply via email to