Re: Stus-List Short handed sailing; sail selection - now lazy jacks
I don’t have much of a problem with the sail catching on the lazy jacks when raising it. As long as my main sheet is loose and I am pointed less than 90° to the wind the sail is reasonably centered on the boom. I keep an eye on the battens while going up to make sure all is well, but most of the time, it goes up without catching. I only pull the lazy jacks forward when racing with a reasonably sized crew. Dave Aries 1990 C&C 34+ New London, CT ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Sail Flaking
Yes, you are correct and I like your "burrito" visualization. It is a technique I read about years ago for single/short handed sailors to quickly and temporarily secure the main sail prior to neatly flaking at a later time. Dennis C. On Sat, Dec 3, 2016 at 9:40 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote: > Hi Dennis, > > I read your suggestion about "pocketing the main". 30 to 40% from the > gooseneck positions me on the cabintop. And we are not flaking, but > making a burrito that we stuff and roll up onto the boom and tie with a > single sail tie? Is that right? > > > Chuck > Resolute > 1990 C&C 34R > Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md > > On December 3, 2016 at 10:17 PM "Dennis C. via CnC-List" < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > On Fri, Dec 2, 2016 at 9:30 PM, Jim Eagon via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > I've been reading this subject for a few days now, and it's interesting > that it doesn't look like anybody has mentioned the Dutchman Flaking > System. I really like mine and it works very well for flaking my sail when > single-handing. > > > > Nobody has mentioned "pocketing" the main either. However, pocketing is a > LOT easier with a second person or an autopilot. It is NOT nearly the > equivalent of a Dutchman, Lazy Jack or stack system. > > Pocketing is simply rolling the main in on itself. First, the boom is > sheeted to center line and the sail is dropped. A crew or the single > hander stands on one side of the boom about 35-40% of the way back from the > gooseneck, reaches across the boom, grabs a handful of sail and rolls it > inward towards himself. Repeat until the sail is in a moderately tight > roll and then secure it with a sail tie. The sail is secured and can be > flaked neatly later at the dock or anchorage. > > I've used this technique dozens of times with success. > > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Looking at C&C 37/40+ CB as next boat
I am looking at a 1993 C&C 37/40+ CB model as our next boat. My first big boat was a 1974 C&C 27 which I had to 12 years, then upgraded to a 1975 C&C 35 MKII in 1992. After 25 years (come February) on the best boat ever built, I'm looking to upgrade to something a little more cruising, but with C&C performance. Given that requirement, it seems reasonable that I should stick with C&C. I've read through the all the email lists concerning the C&C 37+ and most everything looks positive. The boat I'm looking at is listed in Marco Island and immediately needs hatches and windows. I looked at it over the Thanksgiving holidays, and other that those issues, it seems quite basic; doesn't appear to have been raced hard (i.e. no spin hardware & Dacron sails) and not much in cruising upgrades (i.e. needs windless, davits, etc.). Could be a good platform to start with. For you C&C 37/40+ owners out there, is there any thing I should pay close attention to other than engine condition & standing rigging condition that could bite me. Thanks, Mark Baldridge ~~_/) '75 C&C35 MKII "The Edge" Surf City, NC ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Looking at C&C 37/40+ CB as next boat
Hi Mark, Wow! We have a lot in common. Last year I sold my 35 Mk II (Expresso) and bought my 37/40+. I loved Expresso, but the 37+ is better in almost every way. The performance difference is breathtaking. The boat I bought was in pretty bad shape and I spent almost a year refitting her. We renamed her "Kaylarah" after my grand daughters Kayla and Sarah. The side windows are chronic problems on these boats, but almost all of them have that problem, so you will probably have to deal with that. If you are, at all handy, they are not that hard to fix. I can give you a lot of advice in that area. The holding tank is made out of aluminum, and the tank was installed before the interior was installed. Repairing/replacing the tank is a big deal. Of course, you should watch out for the usual punky cored deck. Otherwise she is a good boat with minimal problems. Text me if you need specific advice. There are a lot of 37/40+ owners on this forum and they have a lot of helpful knowledge. Good luck, Gary S/V Kaylarah '90 C&C 37+ East Greenwich, RI, USA ~~~_/)~~ On Sun, Dec 4, 2016 at 6:48 PM, Mark via CnC-List wrote: > I am looking at a 1993 C&C 37/40+ CB model as our next boat. My first big > boat was a 1974 C&C 27 which I had to 12 years, then upgraded to a 1975 C&C > 35 MKII in 1992. After 25 years (come February) on the best boat ever > built, I'm looking to upgrade to something a little more cruising, but with > C&C performance. Given that requirement, it seems reasonable that I should > stick with C&C. > > I've read through the all the email lists concerning the C&C 37+ and most > everything looks positive. The boat I'm looking at is listed in Marco > Island and immediately needs hatches and windows. I looked at it over the > Thanksgiving holidays, and other that those issues, it seems quite basic; > doesn't appear to have been raced hard (i.e. no spin hardware & Dacron > sails) and not much in cruising upgrades (i.e. needs windless, davits, > etc.). Could be a good platform to start with. > > For you C&C 37/40+ owners out there, is there any thing I should pay close > attention to other than engine condition & standing rigging condition that > could bite me. > > Thanks, > Mark Baldridge > ~~_/) > '75 C&C35 MKII "The Edge" > Surf City, NC > > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Looking at C&C 37/40+ CB as next boat
My holding tank is plastic but the hand hole came loose and was a considerable pain in the ass to fix. The forward water tank in mine is aluminum and the fuel tank is aluminum. The back stay attachments are a place for detailed inspection. You'll probably find that the steering cable idlers plate, directly under the pedestal, is probably badly rusted. It should be one of the first safety repairs. The engine mounts may be soft and in need of replacement too. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Sun, Dec 4, 2016, 6:28 PM Gary Russell via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hi Mark, > Wow! We have a lot in common. Last year I sold my 35 Mk II > (Expresso) and bought my 37/40+. I loved Expresso, but the 37+ is better > in almost every way. The performance difference is breathtaking. The boat > I bought was in pretty bad shape and I spent almost a year refitting her. > We renamed her "Kaylarah" after my grand daughters Kayla and Sarah. The > side windows are chronic problems on these boats, but almost all of them > have that problem, so you will probably have to deal with that. If you > are, at all handy, they are not that hard to fix. I can give you a lot of > advice in that area. The holding tank is made out of aluminum, and the > tank was installed before the interior was installed. Repairing/replacing > the tank is a big deal. Of course, you should watch out for the usual > punky cored deck. Otherwise she is a good boat with minimal problems. > Text me if you need specific advice. There are a lot of 37/40+ owners on > this forum and they have a lot of helpful knowledge. > > Good luck, > Gary > S/V Kaylarah > '90 C&C 37+ > East Greenwich, RI, USA > > ~~~_/)~~ > > > On Sun, Dec 4, 2016 at 6:48 PM, Mark via CnC-List > wrote: > > I am looking at a 1993 C&C 37/40+ CB model as our next boat. My first big > boat was a 1974 C&C 27 which I had to 12 years, then upgraded to a 1975 C&C > 35 MKII in 1992. After 25 years (come February) on the best boat ever > built, I'm looking to upgrade to something a little more cruising, but with > C&C performance. Given that requirement, it seems reasonable that I should > stick with C&C. > > I've read through the all the email lists concerning the C&C 37+ and most > everything looks positive. The boat I'm looking at is listed in Marco > Island and immediately needs hatches and windows. I looked at it over the > Thanksgiving holidays, and other that those issues, it seems quite basic; > doesn't appear to have been raced hard (i.e. no spin hardware & Dacron > sails) and not much in cruising upgrades (i.e. needs windless, davits, > etc.). Could be a good platform to start with. > > For you C&C 37/40+ owners out there, is there any thing I should pay close > attention to other than engine condition & standing rigging condition that > could bite me. > > Thanks, > Mark Baldridge > ~~_/) > '75 C&C35 MKII "The Edge" > Surf City, NC > > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Looking at C&C 37/40+ CB as next boat
Mark, I've had a 37+ for 11 years now -- great boat. Mine is also the centerboard model (kinda -- long story, but I can fill you in.) Aside from the usual things, check the centerboard cable status. Yes, the windows are an issue, but not a very difficult fix if you're handy and have access to some good tools. I replaced mine three years ago. The only negative is light-air performance-- but in moderate and heavy air, she is fast and ultra stable -- a real dream. You'll find this list more valuable than a new set of sails. Lots of 37+ owners (as well as XLs and Rs -- and their kid brother, the 34 series). All the best, Edd --- Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise NCC-1701-B C&C 37+ | City Island, NY www.StarshipSailing.com --- 914.332.4400 | Office 914.774.9767 | Mobile --- Sent via iPhone 7 iPhone. iTypos. iApologize On Dec 4, 2016, at 6:48 PM, Mark via CnC-List wrote: I am looking at a 1993 C&C 37/40+ CB model as our next boat. My first big boat was a 1974 C&C 27 which I had to 12 years, then upgraded to a 1975 C&C 35 MKII in 1992. After 25 years (come February) on the best boat ever built, I'm looking to upgrade to something a little more cruising, but with C&C performance. Given that requirement, it seems reasonable that I should stick with C&C. I've read through the all the email lists concerning the C&C 37+ and most everything looks positive. The boat I'm looking at is listed in Marco Island and immediately needs hatches and windows. I looked at it over the Thanksgiving holidays, and other that those issues, it seems quite basic; doesn't appear to have been raced hard (i.e. no spin hardware & Dacron sails) and not much in cruising upgrades (i.e. needs windless, davits, etc.). Could be a good platform to start with. For you C&C 37/40+ owners out there, is there any thing I should pay close attention to other than engine condition & standing rigging condition that could bite me. Thanks, Mark Baldridge ~~_/) '75 C&C35 MKII "The Edge" Surf City, NC ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Looking at C&C 37/40+ CB as next boat
Mark, I am extremely pleased with my 1991 37+. It is responsive and very quick. Here are a few things I've encountered. The rod rigging requires periodic inspection and re-heading. Navtec recommended re-heading the rods and replacing the turnbuckles every 10 years. Probably much of that is CYA. They also recommended replacing the rod rigging after 20. Mine was re-headed and turnbuckles replaced at 20 years. All inspections were OK at that time and I did not replace the rod rigging. Full rig inspection requires pulling the mast. My 'roof' leaked from the beginning. I re-bedded the baby stay track and a few other things with Butyl rubber. The baby stay track which is subject to being pulled away from the deck accounted for most of the leaks. The stamped plate that holds the idler pulleys for the steering is made of carbon steel. Mine rusted so badly the pulleys came loose and the steering cable fell off. I got one of the last parts Edson had in stock. You may want to inspect under the pedestal for evidence of rust. I'd call Edson and ask for a 776-4 idler. They may have to make more parts if you have to order one. The newer S/S part is different. My holding tank is plastic and the hand hole passed gas. I got many complaints from my wife. Once I figured out how to take everything apart, it was easy to replace & re-bed the hand hole. I also replaced the shower valve. If you need, I have pictures. Thanks to Gary Russell being the lead, I added an autopilot. It's like having another crew member which we refer to as the German guy, Otto, as in Ottomatic. Good luck, Ron Ron Ricci S/V Patriot C&C 37+ Bristol, RI -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, December 4, 2016 6:48 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Mark Subject: Stus-List Looking at C&C 37/40+ CB as next boat I am looking at a 1993 C&C 37/40+ CB model as our next boat. My first big boat was a 1974 C&C 27 which I had to 12 years, then upgraded to a 1975 C&C 35 MKII in 1992. After 25 years (come February) on the best boat ever built, I'm looking to upgrade to something a little more cruising, but with C&C performance. Given that requirement, it seems reasonable that I should stick with C&C. I've read through the all the email lists concerning the C&C 37+ and most everything looks positive. The boat I'm looking at is listed in Marco Island and immediately needs hatches and windows. I looked at it over the Thanksgiving holidays, and other that those issues, it seems quite basic; doesn't appear to have been raced hard (i.e. no spin hardware & Dacron sails) and not much in cruising upgrades (i.e. needs windless, davits, etc.). Could be a good platform to start with. For you C&C 37/40+ owners out there, is there any thing I should pay close attention to other than engine condition & standing rigging condition that could bite me. Thanks, Mark Baldridge ~~_/) '75 C&C35 MKII "The Edge" Surf City, NC ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Looking at C&C 37/40+ CB as next boat
Stu,Josh,Edd,Ron, Wow, Thanks for the quick reply's. We're flying down to do another look this Friday. I'm meeting with Charlie Nelson (Water Phantom 36XL) tomorrow to look over his boat and ask questions as it is similar and local. The steering quadrant is reported to have been replaced in the last 24 months. Rigging is original, but reported in excellent condition. I hope the survey will be thorough. I also plan on getting a compression test on the engine. It has a Navico H800 autohelm, but condition is unknown at this time. I do know that the AC blows ice cold! I'm sure I will be asking many questions in the next few days and hopefully later as we make her ours. Thanks, Mark Baldridge ~~_/) '75 C&C35 MKII "The Edge" Surf City, NC On 12/4/2016 8:55 PM, Ron Ricci wrote: Mark, I am extremely pleased with my 1991 37+. It is responsive and very quick. Here are a few things I've encountered. The rod rigging requires periodic inspection and re-heading. Navtec recommended re-heading the rods and replacing the turnbuckles every 10 years. Probably much of that is CYA. They also recommended replacing the rod rigging after 20. Mine was re-headed and turnbuckles replaced at 20 years. All inspections were OK at that time and I did not replace the rod rigging. Full rig inspection requires pulling the mast. My 'roof' leaked from the beginning. I re-bedded the baby stay track and a few other things with Butyl rubber. The baby stay track which is subject to being pulled away from the deck accounted for most of the leaks. The stamped plate that holds the idler pulleys for the steering is made of carbon steel. Mine rusted so badly the pulleys came loose and the steering cable fell off. I got one of the last parts Edson had in stock. You may want to inspect under the pedestal for evidence of rust. I'd call Edson and ask for a 776-4 idler. They may have to make more parts if you have to order one. The newer S/S part is different. My holding tank is plastic and the hand hole passed gas. I got many complaints from my wife. Once I figured out how to take everything apart, it was easy to replace & re-bed the hand hole. I also replaced the shower valve. If you need, I have pictures. Thanks to Gary Russell being the lead, I added an autopilot. It's like having another crew member which we refer to as the German guy, Otto, as in Ottomatic. Good luck, Ron Ron Ricci S/V Patriot C&C 37+ Bristol, RI -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, December 4, 2016 6:48 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Mark Subject: Stus-List Looking at C&C 37/40+ CB as next boat I am looking at a 1993 C&C 37/40+ CB model as our next boat. My first big boat was a 1974 C&C 27 which I had to 12 years, then upgraded to a 1975 C&C 35 MKII in 1992. After 25 years (come February) on the best boat ever built, I'm looking to upgrade to something a little more cruising, but with C&C performance. Given that requirement, it seems reasonable that I should stick with C&C. I've read through the all the email lists concerning the C&C 37+ and most everything looks positive. The boat I'm looking at is listed in Marco Island and immediately needs hatches and windows. I looked at it over the Thanksgiving holidays, and other that those issues, it seems quite basic; doesn't appear to have been raced hard (i.e. no spin hardware & Dacron sails) and not much in cruising upgrades (i.e. needs windless, davits, etc.). Could be a good platform to start with. For you C&C 37/40+ owners out there, is there any thing I should pay close attention to other than engine condition & standing rigging condition that could bite me. Thanks, Mark Baldridge ~~_/) '75 C&C35 MKII "The Edge" Surf City, NC ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Spinnaker pole handling
We use a carbon fiber pole on Water Phantom, C&C 36 XL/kcb, for our kite(s) and have 'oscillated' back and forth between doing dip-pole jibes or end-for-end. The pole is a relatively light Forte carbon fiber pole with snap-in fitting on both ends. We always use lazy sheets and guys. As the driver, I don't have strong feelings about which method we use or should use. However, especially in breezes above 8 knots, it looks to me like our jibes are taking too much time when we end for end the pole. Of course I share some of the blame if I can't keep the boat headed downwind during the jibe but even when I seem to manage keeping her downwind, the mast man struggles to get the pole into the fitting and made--taking valuable time and giving a lot of downwind separation to our competitors. Of course, it also puts him at risk for the pole smashing him about the head and shoulders if the pressure builds on the kite before he has it made. I am convinced that my boat can sail to her rating upwind in breezes above about 8 knots--less not so much!--but downwind we often waste what seems like too much time on jibing. I say this with confidence since when we raced non-spin with a whisker pole, until we learned how to set the pole downwind, we would beat every boat to the windward mark and have most of them pass us on the way downwind. Once we got the mechanics straightened out, no one passed us downwind even if a few gained on us. OTOH, if we dip pole, the bow person often gets the new guy in the pole in the incorrect position (with his back to the bow), so there is certainly a need for more practice. My question for the list is what method should we invest practice time in so that jibing can be as routine as tacking. It seems that at 36 ft Water Phantom and a fiber pole could go either way but I would prefer to always use the same method so that we have a chance to get quick at it. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36 XL/kcb cenel...@aol.com ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Looking at C&C 37/40+ CB as next boat
Ron, Otto, huh? Pretty good. On the Enterprise, we named the new autopilot the Steering Using Linear Utility. You know... SULU. All the best, Edd --- Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise NCC-1701-B C&C 37+ | City Island, NY www.StarshipSailing.com --- 914.332.4400 | Office 914.774.9767 | Mobile --- Sent via iPhone 7 iPhone. iTypos. iApologize On Dec 4, 2016, at 8:55 PM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List wrote: Mark, I am extremely pleased with my 1991 37+. It is responsive and very quick. Here are a few things I've encountered. The rod rigging requires periodic inspection and re-heading. Navtec recommended re-heading the rods and replacing the turnbuckles every 10 years. Probably much of that is CYA. They also recommended replacing the rod rigging after 20. Mine was re-headed and turnbuckles replaced at 20 years. All inspections were OK at that time and I did not replace the rod rigging. Full rig inspection requires pulling the mast. My 'roof' leaked from the beginning. I re-bedded the baby stay track and a few other things with Butyl rubber. The baby stay track which is subject to being pulled away from the deck accounted for most of the leaks. The stamped plate that holds the idler pulleys for the steering is made of carbon steel. Mine rusted so badly the pulleys came loose and the steering cable fell off. I got one of the last parts Edson had in stock. You may want to inspect under the pedestal for evidence of rust. I'd call Edson and ask for a 776-4 idler. They may have to make more parts if you have to order one. The newer S/S part is different. My holding tank is plastic and the hand hole passed gas. I got many complaints from my wife. Once I figured out how to take everything apart, it was easy to replace & re-bed the hand hole. I also replaced the shower valve. If you need, I have pictures. Thanks to Gary Russell being the lead, I added an autopilot. It's like having another crew member which we refer to as the German guy, Otto, as in Ottomatic. Good luck, Ron Ron Ricci S/V Patriot C&C 37+ ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole handling
Do you have a baby stay? Jacob Fuerst '78 C&C 36 303-520-4669 On Dec 4, 2016 6:21 PM, "Charlie Nelson via CnC-List" wrote: > We use a carbon fiber pole on Water Phantom, C&C 36 XL/kcb, for our > kite(s) and have 'oscillated' back and forth between doing dip-pole jibes > or end-for-end. The pole is a relatively light Forte carbon fiber pole with > snap-in fitting on both ends. > > We always use lazy sheets and guys. > > As the driver, I don't have strong feelings about which method we use or > should use. > > However, especially in breezes above 8 knots, it looks to me like our > jibes are taking too much time when we end for end the pole. Of course I > share some of the blame if I can't keep the boat headed downwind during the > jibe but even when I seem to manage keeping her downwind, the mast man > struggles to get the pole into the fitting and made--taking valuable time > and giving a lot of downwind separation to our competitors. Of course, it > also puts him at risk for the pole smashing him about the head and > shoulders if the pressure builds on the kite before he has it made. > > I am convinced that my boat can sail to her rating upwind in breezes above > about 8 knots--less not so much!--but downwind we often waste what seems > like too much time on jibing. I say this with confidence since when we > raced non-spin with a whisker pole, until we learned how to set the pole > downwind, we would beat every boat to the windward mark and have most of > them pass us on the way downwind. Once we got the mechanics straightened > out, no one passed us downwind even if a few gained on us. > > OTOH, if we dip pole, the bow person often gets the new guy in the pole in > the incorrect position (with his back to the bow), so there is certainly a > need for more practice. > > My question for the list is what method should we invest practice time in > so that jibing can be as routine as tacking. It seems that at 36 ft Water > Phantom and a fiber pole could go either way but I would prefer to always > use the same method so that we have a chance to get quick at it. > > Charlie Nelson > Water Phantom > C&C 36 XL/kcb > > > cenel...@aol.com > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole handling
I've been using dip pole gybes for the past forty years. I even did it that way with my thirty foot Ericson, before getting my present boat. Dip pole gybes are always safer, since you don't have to disconnect the pole from the mast. the crew just needs practice. Get out and gybe back and forth while going downwind, until they get it. Meanwhile, you have to concentrate on steering straight. Don't watch what the crew is doing. If you want to get involved in the gybe, give the helm to someone else, and make sure they steer straight, and not watch the foredeck crew. Alan Bergen 35 Mk III Thirsty Rose City YC Portland, OR On Sun, Dec 4, 2016 at 6:20 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > We use a carbon fiber pole on Water Phantom, C&C 36 XL/kcb, for our > kite(s) and have 'oscillated' back and forth between doing dip-pole jibes > or end-for-end. The pole is a relatively light Forte carbon fiber pole with > snap-in fitting on both ends. > > We always use lazy sheets and guys. > > As the driver, I don't have strong feelings about which method we use or > should use. > > However, especially in breezes above 8 knots, it looks to me like our > jibes are taking too much time when we end for end the pole. Of course I > share some of the blame if I can't keep the boat headed downwind during the > jibe but even when I seem to manage keeping her downwind, the mast man > struggles to get the pole into the fitting and made--taking valuable time > and giving a lot of downwind separation to our competitors. Of course, it > also puts him at risk for the pole smashing him about the head and > shoulders if the pressure builds on the kite before he has it made. > > I am convinced that my boat can sail to her rating upwind in breezes above > about 8 knots--less not so much!--but downwind we often waste what seems > like too much time on jibing. I say this with confidence since when we > raced non-spin with a whisker pole, until we learned how to set the pole > downwind, we would beat every boat to the windward mark and have most of > them pass us on the way downwind. Once we got the mechanics straightened > out, no one passed us downwind even if a few gained on us. > > OTOH, if we dip pole, the bow person often gets the new guy in the pole in > the incorrect position (with his back to the bow), so there is certainly a > need for more practice. > > My question for the list is what method should we invest practice time in > so that jibing can be as routine as tacking. It seems that at 36 ft Water > Phantom and a fiber pole could go either way but I would prefer to always > use the same method so that we have a chance to get quick at it. > > Charlie Nelson > Water Phantom > C&C 36 XL/kcb > > > cenel...@aol.com > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www. > paypal.me_stumurray&d=DgICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN > 0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m= > 64esgnaRtNrru38cSeMV1cCK74ym6SRRTIQCo09WIAI&s=9os9S0Y5FfpJjQWUPU17DyUPj_ > 9MICfQn0C8EOC4aA4&e= > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > -- Alan Bergen 35 Mk III Thirsty Rose City YC Portland, OR ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole handling
Charlie, While many consider 35-36 feet the upper limit for end for end gybes, we use end for end with an aluminum pole on Touche' (35-1). With the right technique, you shouldn't have issues. I've been doing foredeck since the mid 90's. I think the key to a good, and safe, end for end gybe is the driver and the way the driver and crew think about the gybe. Many sailors think a chute gybe is moving the chute across the boat. I don't subscribe to that philosophy. A better way to think about gybing is you're moving the BOAT under the chute. Doesn't sound like much of a difference but it really is. The idea is to keep the chute flying and drawing while the driver gradually steers the boat to the new course. If the chute continues to fly effectively, connecting the pole to the new sheet and then the mast will be nearly effortless. Sit down with your crew and talk about gybing with this philosophy. It may be the difference you need. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Sun, Dec 4, 2016 at 8:20 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > We use a carbon fiber pole on Water Phantom, C&C 36 XL/kcb, for our > kite(s) and have 'oscillated' back and forth between doing dip-pole jibes > or end-for-end. The pole is a relatively light Forte carbon fiber pole with > snap-in fitting on both ends. > > We always use lazy sheets and guys. > > As the driver, I don't have strong feelings about which method we use or > should use. > > However, especially in breezes above 8 knots, it looks to me like our > jibes are taking too much time when we end for end the pole. Of course I > share some of the blame if I can't keep the boat headed downwind during the > jibe but even when I seem to manage keeping her downwind, the mast man > struggles to get the pole into the fitting and made--taking valuable time > and giving a lot of downwind separation to our competitors. Of course, it > also puts him at risk for the pole smashing him about the head and > shoulders if the pressure builds on the kite before he has it made. > > I am convinced that my boat can sail to her rating upwind in breezes above > about 8 knots--less not so much!--but downwind we often waste what seems > like too much time on jibing. I say this with confidence since when we > raced non-spin with a whisker pole, until we learned how to set the pole > downwind, we would beat every boat to the windward mark and have most of > them pass us on the way downwind. Once we got the mechanics straightened > out, no one passed us downwind even if a few gained on us. > > OTOH, if we dip pole, the bow person often gets the new guy in the pole in > the incorrect position (with his back to the bow), so there is certainly a > need for more practice. > > My question for the list is what method should we invest practice time in > so that jibing can be as routine as tacking. It seems that at 36 ft Water > Phantom and a fiber pole could go either way but I would prefer to always > use the same method so that we have a chance to get quick at it. > > Charlie Nelson > Water Phantom > C&C 36 XL/kcb > > > cenel...@aol.com > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole handling
Not any longer--ditched that many years ago on the advice on my sailmaker who saw little reason for it on a masthead rig without swept back spreaders and with check stays except for reducing pumping in chop. Charlie cenel...@aol.com -Original Message- From: jacob fuerst via CnC-List To: cnc-list Cc: jacob fuerst Sent: Sun, Dec 4, 2016 9:34 pm Subject: Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole handling Do you have a baby stay? Jacob Fuerst '78 C&C 36 303-520-4669 On Dec 4, 2016 6:21 PM, "Charlie Nelson via CnC-List" wrote: We use a carbon fiber pole on Water Phantom, C&C 36 XL/kcb, for our kite(s) and have 'oscillated' back and forth between doing dip-pole jibes or end-for-end. The pole is a relatively light Forte carbon fiber pole with snap-in fitting on both ends. We always use lazy sheets and guys. As the driver, I don't have strong feelings about which method we use or should use. However, especially in breezes above 8 knots, it looks to me like our jibes are taking too much time when we end for end the pole. Of course I share some of the blame if I can't keep the boat headed downwind during the jibe but even when I seem to manage keeping her downwind, the mast man struggles to get the pole into the fitting and made--taking valuable time and giving a lot of downwind separation to our competitors. Of course, it also puts him at risk for the pole smashing him about the head and shoulders if the pressure builds on the kite before he has it made. I am convinced that my boat can sail to her rating upwind in breezes above about 8 knots--less not so much!--but downwind we often waste what seems like too much time on jibing. I say this with confidence since when we raced non-spin with a whisker pole, until we learned how to set the pole downwind, we would beat every boat to the windward mark and have most of them pass us on the way downwind. Once we got the mechanics straightened out, no one passed us downwind even if a few gained on us. OTOH, if we dip pole, the bow person often gets the new guy in the pole in the incorrect position (with his back to the bow), so there is certainly a need for more practice. My question for the list is what method should we invest practice time in so that jibing can be as routine as tacking. It seems that at 36 ft Water Phantom and a fiber pole could go either way but I would prefer to always use the same method so that we have a chance to get quick at it. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36 XL/kcb cenel...@aol.com ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Looking at C&C 37/40+ CB as next boat (Mark)
I just looked at the Ad in yachtworld. It looks identical to mine inside. That engine, if it is a 3jh2 should be rated 38 HP, not 22. I have a bit more tankage for water and waste. I did replace my engine mounts last season. Also had the Max prop refurbished. I replaced the shaft seal. I had an issue with a loose connection on the ammeter at the panel. Some of the wiring is corroding at this point, so look for that. My chainplates and the cabin handrails leaked inside. I replaced the handrails with stainless steel. The PO added a hatch in the Head for access to the water pump impeller, very nice, though I may enlarge it. The thru hulls are plastic in the head and for the forward sink and the raw water for the washdown pump. I will be replacing them. Looks pretty decent for that price. Hit me up for any information I can provide. -- Brian Fry S/V La Neige 1993 C&C 37/40XL HdG Maryland ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
