Re: Stus-List Asymmetric spinnaker short handed. 33-2?

2016-09-12 Thread Syerdave--- via CnC-List
Great information all, and thank you.In response to a few comments,
Had originally thought of a Crane also at the masthead, and somehow 
incorporating a bail into the anchor roller, but as noted, with three halyards 
and a few options at the bow, it is probably not necessary.  I guess the crane 
etc went away for windage reasons?Something at the anchor roller casting 
could be added later maybe.
 I will add a a belaying point at the mast for one of the wing halyards.  No 
brainer, now that someone else suggested it!   
On chafe, wraps.  I still have the original wire halyards and have noted 
abrasion from same at the masthead.  Will replace with rope over the winter, 
and per the article referred, mark to ensure a full hoist.   
Outside/inside? Outside absolutely, and I should have stated that in my post.  
I can't imagine trying to tack that sail inside on a 33-2. 
Last, single or short handed?single, with Otto, sibling of George, doing 
his thing at the helm.   
Thanks again, all set.

Dave.
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Re: Stus-List Asymmetric spinnaker short handed. 33-2?

2016-09-12 Thread Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
Dave

The Frers 33 is remarkably similar to C&C 33-2.  It also has three mast 
halyards forward.  The outer ones are most certainly port and stbd spin 
halyards.  One reason NOT to have one of the spin halyards at mast and other in 
cockpit is that a spin will always want to be hoisted on whichever halyard is 
on the leeward is at hoist time.

Persistence has an oversized anchor roller that protruded a bit in front of 
bow.  We have a bail on this that we put a side opening block on.  We simply 
run the spin downhaul thru this for a tack line.  Any gybes are best done 
forward of forestay. Since spin halyards are expected to have loads to the 
sides that should not be any different with asym than with symmetric spin.  
Note that we have had no issues with this setup using the sock or without the 
sock on our asym.  

For your mast comments why not a cleat at the mast.  Something maybe like a J 
Boat where it has a cam cleat at mast and is also run back to coachroof.  
Alternatively a horn cleat at mast (likely is one there already for some other 
purpose) and when short handed cleat it there.  The rest of the halyard could 
still be run back to cockpit with the excess either bundled at mast or in 
cockpit at your discretion.

Have fun with the asym.

Mike
Persistence
Frers 33
Halifax, NS

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Syerdave--- 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 7:40 AM
To: C&c Stus List
Cc: syerd...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Asymmetric spinnaker short handed. 33-2?

Great information all, and thank you.In response to a few comments,
Had originally thought of a Crane also at the masthead, and somehow 
incorporating a bail into the anchor roller, but as noted, with three halyards 
and a few options at the bow, it is probably not necessary.  I guess the crane 
etc went away for windage reasons?Something at the anchor roller casting 
could be added later maybe.
 I will add a a belaying point at the mast for one of the wing halyards.  No 
brainer, now that someone else suggested it!   
On chafe, wraps.  I still have the original wire halyards and have noted 
abrasion from same at the masthead.  Will replace with rope over the winter, 
and per the article referred, mark to ensure a full hoist.   
Outside/inside? Outside absolutely, and I should have stated that in my post.  
I can't imagine trying to tack that sail inside on a 33-2. 
Last, single or short handed?single, with Otto, sibling of George, doing 
his thing at the helm.   
Thanks again, all set.

Dave.
___

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Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread robert via CnC-List
When up the mast the other day, I noticed that my 'Steaming, Bow, 
Foredeck Light' was in pretty bad shape.probably the original 32 
years old.  Will probably replace it when the mast is hauled later this 
Fall although I understand this light is no longer legally 
required...but I do like the halogen foredeck light.


I found this one linked below at the Binnacle...almost similar to 
the existing one:


Lights-Steaming-Spreader-&-Deck-Lights/c23_156/p1349/AAA-MASTHEAD-/-DECK-LIGHT/product_info.html

It appears, without removing mine, that there are three (3) white wires 
exiting the foot of the mast connecting to 'green, red and black' 
..I assume the green is negative, red is positive and black in ground.


Here's the question..the new light fixture at the Binnacle only has 
one white wire as a connection...there is (are) no other places on 
the back of the fixture to connect other wires.  So if my old fixture 
has 3 connections (assuming it does but I have not removed it to be 
sure) and this new fixture only has one 'white wire', how do you connect it?


As you can tell, I am no electrician.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread Frederick G Street via CnC-List
Rob — unless there have been changes in regs that I’m not aware of, a steaming 
light (also referred to as a masthead light) IS still required, when motoring 
at night, along with the bow (or sidelights) and stern light.  Maybe Canadian 
regs are different.

On your existing fixture, the black is probably a common ground for the deck 
and steaming light; the red and green will be separate positive leads for each 
of the two lights.

The replacement light from the Binnacle may only show one white wire; but my 
guess is that it contains three conductors, the same as the existing fixture.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Sep 12, 2016, at 7:49 AM, robert via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> When up the mast the other day, I noticed that my 'Steaming, Bow, Foredeck 
> Light' was in pretty bad shape.probably the original 32 years old.  Will 
> probably replace it when the mast is hauled later this Fall although I 
> understand this light is no longer legally required...but I do like the 
> halogen foredeck light.
> 
> I found this one linked below at the Binnacle...almost similar to the 
> existing one:
> 
> Lights-Steaming-Spreader-&-Deck-Lights/c23_156/p1349/AAA-MASTHEAD-/-DECK-LIGHT/product_info.html
> 
> It appears, without removing mine, that there are three (3) white wires 
> exiting the foot of the mast connecting to 'green, red and black' ..I 
> assume the green is negative, red is positive and black in ground.
> 
> Here's the question..the new light fixture at the Binnacle only has one 
> white wire as a connection...there is (are) no other places on the back 
> of the fixture to connect other wires. So if my old fixture has 3 connections 
> (assuming it does but I have not removed it to be sure) and this new fixture 
> only has one 'white wire', how do you connect it?
> 
> As you can tell, I am no electrician.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.

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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread Ron Ricci via CnC-List
Robert,

I have a similar combination Steaming/Foredeck Light.  The steaming light is
required when under power at night.  It is not required under sail.  Mine
has three wires, a common (black), 12 VDC for steaming light (red) and 12
VDC (white) for foredeck light.  Your colors may be different, look where
the conductors terminate.  Originally there were three separate #16 AWG
wires which I replaced with a single 3 conductor #18 AWG cable.  The 20 watt
foredeck and LED steaming light draw under 2 amps.  


Regards,
Ron
Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C&C 37+
Bristol, RI
(978) 877-0369
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

  



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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
Rob,

I am not sure to which part you refer as “no longer legally required”. You 
don’t need the deck light, for sure, but you do need a steaming light, unless 
you can show a 360 degrees white light in some other way (e.g. turn off the 
stern light and turn on the anchor light at the top of the mast).

A single wire out of the combination light does not make sense. You need at 
least two, unless they try using the mast as the ground (then I would not buy 
it). Most of the combo lights come with separate leads for each function, i.e. 
negative/ground (usually common), positive - steaming, positive - deck light. 
Some combo lights had a switch in the unit that allow to run the power with a 
single positive wire (plus the negative). If this is one like that, the switch 
turns e.g. steaming light when you turn it on, but if you switch it off and on 
again, it would turn the deck light, and again  - both. You would have to 
decide if that meets your needs.

If it really has a single wire, I am afraid, you will have to bite the bullet 
and spend twice (3x?) as much on the Aqua Signal. 

Marine Outfitters (Kingston) has very similar light (for very similar price) 
with 3 wires: 
http://www.marineoutfitters.ca/index.cfm?category=10002|1|11312&product=38614998&code=90021547.

Marek

From: robert via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 08:50
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List Electrical Question

When up the mast the other day, I noticed that my 'Steaming, Bow, 
Foredeck Light' was in pretty bad shape.probably the original 32 
years old.  Will probably replace it when the mast is hauled later this 
Fall although I understand this light is no longer legally 
required...but I do like the halogen foredeck light.

I found this one linked below at the Binnacle...almost similar to 
the existing one:

Lights-Steaming-Spreader-&-Deck-Lights/c23_156/p1349/AAA-MASTHEAD-/-DECK-LIGHT/product_info.html

It appears, without removing mine, that there are three (3) white wires 
exiting the foot of the mast connecting to 'green, red and black' 
..I assume the green is negative, red is positive and black in ground.

Here's the question..the new light fixture at the Binnacle only has 
one white wire as a connection...there is (are) no other places on 
the back of the fixture to connect other wires.  So if my old fixture 
has 3 connections (assuming it does but I have not removed it to be 
sure) and this new fixture only has one 'white wire', how do you connect it?

As you can tell, I am no electrician.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

___

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greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread Indigo via CnC-List
As far as I know the various navigation light combinations for boats are 
international. There should be no difference in requirement between countries - 
that would be highly dangerous. Nav lights have two functions - type of vessel 
identification, and vessel heading identification.  When under power, whether 
the sails are up or not, a sail boat MUST display the red / green bow lights 
and stern light AND a steaming / masthead light. The steaming / masthead light 
must be higher than the red / green bow lights - which is why it is not correct 
to use a masthead tricolor with a steaming/masthead light.   If under sail 
alone one should not display a steaming/masthead light otherwise you might be 
confused for a vessel under power. Might be bad where a possibility of 
collision exists.!

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Sep 12, 2016, at 09:19, Ron Ricci via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>   "It is not required under sail."


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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread Petar Horvatic via CnC-List
On the high seas, especially in swell, those deck level running lights might
be useless.  Typical example is crossing the gulf stream from FL to Bahamas.
There is so much traffic there and if swell is up, deck level lights are not
visible.  Shipping lanes are very busy down there.  To me, safety is more
important than if red/green are below or above the steaming light.
Tri-color takes priority for overnight crossings and offshore passages
regardless of what the rules are, especially if going solo.  


Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 C&C 38MkII
Newport, RI


  


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 9:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Indigo
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

As far as I know the various navigation light combinations for boats are
international. There should be no difference in requirement between
countries - that would be highly dangerous. Nav lights have two functions -
type of vessel identification, and vessel heading identification.  When
under power, whether the sails are up or not, a sail boat MUST display the
red / green bow lights and stern light AND a steaming / masthead light. The
steaming / masthead light must be higher than the red / green bow lights -
which is why it is not correct to use a masthead tricolor with a
steaming/masthead light.   If under sail alone one should not display a
steaming/masthead light otherwise you might be confused for a vessel under
power. Might be bad where a possibility of collision exists.!

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Sep 12, 2016, at 09:19, Ron Ricci via CnC-List 
wrote:
> 
>   "It is not required under sail."


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are greatly appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List BlackWatch - C&C 39 - world tour

2016-09-12 Thread Patrick Davin via CnC-List
Congrats on the successful passage! I'm subscribed now and look forward to
more.

>From the project pics it looks like you did a lot in only a year. Too bad
the blog wasn't started earlier - would be great to hear about some of
those.
What kind of wind vane do you have? I saw it in the pictures but couldn't
recognize the brand. I take it you don't have an electric autopilot and
used that exclusively?

-Patrick
S/V Violet Hour, Seattle, WA
'84 C&C LF38


> On Thu, Sep 1, 2016 at 7:28 PM, Adam Trackracer via CnC-List  cnc-list.com > 
> wrote:
>
> >* Thought you guys might like this,  me and my girl are sailin to the South
> *>* Pacific and beyond on our 1973 C&C39, took me a while to find a 39
> *>* (favorite c&c) I'll post projects and picks, ask me anything,  peace.
> *>>* Svblackwatch.wordpress.com 
> *>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
So if you have a combo tricolor/anchor masthead light and you are under
power should they both be on?

Joel

On Mon, Sep 12, 2016 at 9:59 AM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> On the high seas, especially in swell, those deck level running lights
> might
> be useless.  Typical example is crossing the gulf stream from FL to
> Bahamas.
> There is so much traffic there and if swell is up, deck level lights are
> not
> visible.  Shipping lanes are very busy down there.  To me, safety is more
> important than if red/green are below or above the steaming light.
> Tri-color takes priority for overnight crossings and offshore passages
> regardless of what the rules are, especially if going solo.
>
>
> Petar Horvatic
> Sundowner
> 76 C&C 38MkII
> Newport, RI
>
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 9:46 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Indigo
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Question
>
> As far as I know the various navigation light combinations for boats are
> international. There should be no difference in requirement between
> countries - that would be highly dangerous. Nav lights have two functions -
> type of vessel identification, and vessel heading identification.  When
> under power, whether the sails are up or not, a sail boat MUST display the
> red / green bow lights and stern light AND a steaming / masthead light. The
> steaming / masthead light must be higher than the red / green bow lights -
> which is why it is not correct to use a masthead tricolor with a
> steaming/masthead light.   If under sail alone one should not display a
> steaming/masthead light otherwise you might be confused for a vessel under
> power. Might be bad where a possibility of collision exists.!
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C&C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
>
> > On Sep 12, 2016, at 09:19, Ron Ricci via CnC-List  >
> wrote:
> >
> >   "It is not required under sail."
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>



-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Asymmetric spinnaker short handed. 33-2?

2016-09-12 Thread Bruno Lachance via CnC-List
Dave,


On my 33-2 (1987, Offshorespars mast). I added the mast crane from Offshore to 
add some clearance in front of the furler and to use one dedicated spin 
haylard. I even remove the port haylard since i don't use it /need it. I have 
full confidence in my fairly new all rope (Vectran) haylards.


Knowing i will never have a full crew to race with a symetric spin, I wanted a 
big asym that would be easy to rig double handed or even singlehanded. I went a 
bit crazy and ordered a Selden retractable bowsprit (3 feet in front of the bow 
extended) and a Facnor furler. the asym is 82 m2 runner, almost as big as a 
symetric and is very easy to manage even in challenging conditions. It is 
amazing how deep i can keep it, up to 150-160 degrees in a good breeze.


If i was to do it all over i might choose a sock insteand of the furler. the 
furler works ok but it is slow to furl. Not ideal when racing on short courses, 
but our racing is mostly coastal distance racing. And the tack (furler drum) is 
fixed, i sometimes try to let go the haylard a bit (10-12 inches) to get a 
fuller sail, but i'm sure it would be better to play with the tack line if i 
had one...


To have more clearance  at the top of the mast, the crane was a big plus, it 
would be too tight between the spin furler head and the jib furler otherwise.


I added a spinlock XAS cluth on the mast and i love it. I also have a XTS at 
the mast for the main.


Let me know if you would like some pictures of my setup.


Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 33-2

New-Richmond,Qc.






De : CnC-List  de la part de Hoyt, Mike via 
CnC-List 
Envoyé : 12 septembre 2016 12:34
À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc : Hoyt, Mike
Objet : Re: Stus-List Asymmetric spinnaker short handed. 33-2?

Dave

The Frers 33 is remarkably similar to C&C 33-2.  It also has three mast 
halyards forward.  The outer ones are most certainly port and stbd spin 
halyards.  One reason NOT to have one of the spin halyards at mast and other in 
cockpit is that a spin will always want to be hoisted on whichever halyard is 
on the leeward is at hoist time.

Persistence has an oversized anchor roller that protruded a bit in front of 
bow.  We have a bail on this that we put a side opening block on.  We simply 
run the spin downhaul thru this for a tack line.  Any gybes are best done 
forward of forestay. Since spin halyards are expected to have loads to the 
sides that should not be any different with asym than with symmetric spin.  
Note that we have had no issues with this setup using the sock or without the 
sock on our asym.

For your mast comments why not a cleat at the mast.  Something maybe like a J 
Boat where it has a cam cleat at mast and is also run back to coachroof.  
Alternatively a horn cleat at mast (likely is one there already for some other 
purpose) and when short handed cleat it there.  The rest of the halyard could 
still be run back to cockpit with the excess either bundled at mast or in 
cockpit at your discretion.

Have fun with the asym.

Mike
Persistence
Frers 33
Halifax, NS

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Syerdave--- 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 7:40 AM
To: C&c Stus List
Cc: syerd...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Asymmetric spinnaker short handed. 33-2?

Great information all, and thank you.In response to a few comments,
Had originally thought of a Crane also at the masthead, and somehow 
incorporating a bail into the anchor roller, but as noted, with three halyards 
and a few options at the bow, it is probably not necessary.  I guess the crane 
etc went away for windage reasons?Something at the anchor roller casting 
could be added later maybe.
 I will add a a belaying point at the mast for one of the wing halyards.  No 
brainer, now that someone else suggested it!
On chafe, wraps.  I still have the original wire halyards and have noted 
abrasion from same at the masthead.  Will replace with rope over the winter, 
and per the article referred, mark to ensure a full hoist.
Outside/inside? Outside absolutely, and I should have stated that in my post.  
I can't imagine trying to tack that sail inside on a 33-2.
Last, single or short handed?single, with Otto, sibling of George, doing 
his thing at the helm.
Thanks again, all set.

Dave.
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread Petar Horvatic via CnC-List
That might satisfy the below/above rule but I am not sure how having all around 
white few inches below tricolor affects the red/green.  I never really took the 
dinghy away from the boat at night to see. 

 

To me Rule #1 is be visible.  So under power at night outside, tri-color is on, 
and steaming light at the first spreader is on.  In the bay and harbors, I use 
deck level running lights.Again for visibility.  You’ll be surprised how 
many taxis/ small powerboats don’t look up at night.  I almost got hit sailing 
into Newport Harbor by a small power boat as he did not bother looking up to 
see the tri-color.

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: Joel Aronson [mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 10:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Petar Horvatic
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

 

So if you have a combo tricolor/anchor masthead light and you are under power 
should they both be on?

 

Joel

 

On Mon, Sep 12, 2016 at 9:59 AM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List 
 wrote:

On the high seas, especially in swell, those deck level running lights might
be useless.  Typical example is crossing the gulf stream from FL to Bahamas.
There is so much traffic there and if swell is up, deck level lights are not
visible.  Shipping lanes are very busy down there.  To me, safety is more
important than if red/green are below or above the steaming light.
Tri-color takes priority for overnight crossings and offshore passages
regardless of what the rules are, especially if going solo.


Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 C&C 38MkII
Newport, RI





-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo
via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 9:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Indigo
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

As far as I know the various navigation light combinations for boats are
international. There should be no difference in requirement between
countries - that would be highly dangerous. Nav lights have two functions -
type of vessel identification, and vessel heading identification.  When
under power, whether the sails are up or not, a sail boat MUST display the
red / green bow lights and stern light AND a steaming / masthead light. The
steaming / masthead light must be higher than the red / green bow lights -
which is why it is not correct to use a masthead tricolor with a
steaming/masthead light.   If under sail alone one should not display a
steaming/masthead light otherwise you might be confused for a vessel under
power. Might be bad where a possibility of collision exists.!

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Sep 12, 2016, at 09:19, Ron Ricci via CnC-List 
wrote:
>
>   "It is not required under sail."


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are greatly appreciated!


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!





 

-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread Andrew Burton via CnC-List
Rob, I'm pretty sure the steaming light is still required to be shown when
you're motoring or motorsailing.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

On Mon, Sep 12, 2016 at 8:49 AM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> When up the mast the other day, I noticed that my 'Steaming, Bow, Foredeck
> Light' was in pretty bad shape.probably the original 32 years old.
> Will probably replace it when the mast is hauled later this Fall although I
> understand this light is no longer legally required...but I do like the
> halogen foredeck light.
>
> I found this one linked below at the Binnacle...almost similar to the
> existing one:
>
> Lights-Steaming-Spreader-&-Deck-Lights/c23_156/p1349/AAA-MAS
> THEAD-/-DECK-LIGHT/product_info.html
>
> It appears, without removing mine, that there are three (3) white wires
> exiting the foot of the mast connecting to 'green, red and black' ..I
> assume the green is negative, red is positive and black in ground.
>
> Here's the question..the new light fixture at the Binnacle only has
> one white wire as a connection...there is (are) no other places on the
> back of the fixture to connect other wires.  So if my old fixture has 3
> connections (assuming it does but I have not removed it to be sure) and
> this new fixture only has one 'white wire', how do you connect it?
>
> As you can tell, I am no electrician.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>



-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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Stus-List Filtered Fresh water

2016-09-12 Thread Kevin Paxton via CnC-List
Anyone ever remove the fresh water foot pump and instead install a filtered
drinking water faucet? I'm thinking of doing so but am not completely sure
if removing the foot pump is common or not. If not, what type of water
filters would be good for installing under the galley sink and providing
drinkable water on board without adding another faucet.

I currently have a fresh water foot pump, salt water foot pump, and
standard hot/cold water sink faucet.

Where would I put the filter as well? Before or after the pump, before or
after the water heater, one at each sink (galley/head)? I can't seem to
find decent inline filters that have good flow and fittings for 1/2" PEX
tubing.

As I said in an earlier email, I'm replumbing the entire system using 1/2"
PEX with SeaTech 35 series fittings, putting in a 3 GPM Shurflo pump, and
would like to add filtering to make sure the water is drinkable.

Thanks,
Kevin
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
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Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread robert via CnC-List
The light I am talking about is the one 1/2 up the front of the mast 
just above the spreadersnot the one on the top of the mast seen 360 
degrees..I was told the one on the front of the mast is longer a 
legal requirement but the one on the top of the mast is a legal 
requirement when motoring or motor sailing.


Am I correct?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2016-09-12 10:11 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:
Rob — unless there have been changes in regs that I’m not aware of, a 
steaming light (also referred to as a masthead light) /IS/ still 
required, when motoring at night, along with the bow (or sidelights) 
and stern light.  Maybe Canadian regs are different.


On your existing fixture, the black is probably a common ground for 
the deck and steaming light; the red and green will be separate 
positive leads for each of the two lights.


The replacement light from the Binnacle may only show one white wire; 
but my guess is that it contains three conductors, the same as the 
existing fixture.


— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Sep 12, 2016, at 7:49 AM, robert via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


When up the mast the other day, I noticed that my 'Steaming, Bow, 
Foredeck Light' was in pretty bad shape.probably the original 32 
years old.  Will probably replace it when the mast is hauled later 
this Fall although I understand this light is no longer legally 
required...but I do like the halogen foredeck light.


I found this one linked below at the Binnacle...almost similar to 
the existing one:


Lights-Steaming-Spreader-&-Deck-Lights/c23_156/p1349/AAA-MASTHEAD-/-DECK-LIGHT/product_info.html

It appears, without removing mine, that there are three (3) white 
wires exiting the foot of the mast connecting to 'green, red and 
black' ..I assume the green is negative, red is positive and 
black in ground.


Here's the question..the new light fixture at the Binnacle only 
has one white wire as a connection...there is (are) no other 
places on the back of the fixture to connect other wires. So if my 
old fixture has 3 connections (assuming it does but I have not 
removed it to be sure) and this new fixture only has one 'white 
wire', how do you connect it?


As you can tell, I am no electrician.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread Frederick G Street via CnC-List
I think whoever told you that is mistaken; the steaming light is NOT an 
all-around light, and is made to combine with the nav lights to show the proper 
lighting arrangement while moving under power.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Sep 12, 2016, at 10:24 AM, robert via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The light I am talking about is the one 1/2 up the front of the mast just 
> above the spreadersnot the one on the top of the mast seen 360 
> degrees..I was told the one on the front of the mast is longer a legal 
> requirement but the one on the top of the mast is a legal requirement when 
> motoring or motor sailing.
> 
> Am I correct?
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.

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Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread robert via CnC-List

Marek:

The light on the front of the mast about 1/2 way up just above the 
spreaders is the one I am talking about..I was told it is no longer 
a legal requirement but the 'anchor light' at the top of the mast is a 
legal requirement..it can be seen 360 degrees but the light 1/2 way 
up the front of the mast can not be seen 360 degrees.


I didn't think a single wire made sense also and did not buy the 
fixture.  I will buy the more expensive Aqua Signal.


Thanks all for your input.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2016-09-12 10:24 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:

Rob,
I am not sure to which part you refer as “no longer legally required”. 
You don’t need the deck light, for sure, but you do need a steaming 
light, unless you can show a 360 degrees white light in some other way 
(e.g. turn off the stern light and turn on the anchor light at the top 
of the mast).
A single wire out of the combination light does not make sense. You 
need at least two, unless they try using the mast as the ground (then 
I would not buy it). Most of the combo lights come with separate leads 
for each function, i.e. negative/ground (usually common), positive - 
steaming, positive - deck light. Some combo lights had a switch in the 
unit that allow to run the power with a single positive wire (plus the 
negative). If this is one like that, the switch turns e.g. steaming 
light when you turn it on, but if you switch it off and on again, it 
would turn the deck light, and again  - both. You would have to decide 
if that meets your needs.
If it really has a single wire, I am afraid, you will have to bite the 
bullet and spend twice (3x?) as much on the Aqua Signal.
Marine Outfitters (Kingston) has very similar light (for very similar 
price) with 3 wires: 
http://www.marineoutfitters.ca/index.cfm?category=10002|1|11312&product=38614998&code=90021547 
.

Marek
*From:* robert via CnC-List
*Sent:* Monday, September 12, 2016 08:50
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* robert
*Subject:* Stus-List Electrical Question
When up the mast the other day, I noticed that my 'Steaming, Bow,
Foredeck Light' was in pretty bad shape.probably the original 32
years old.  Will probably replace it when the mast is hauled later this
Fall although I understand this light is no longer legally
required...but I do like the halogen foredeck light.

I found this one linked below at the Binnacle...almost similar to
the existing one:

Lights-Steaming-Spreader-&-Deck-Lights/c23_156/p1349/AAA-MASTHEAD-/-DECK-LIGHT/product_info.html

It appears, without removing mine, that there are three (3) white wires
exiting the foot of the mast connecting to 'green, red and black'
..I assume the green is negative, red is positive and black in ground.

Here's the question..the new light fixture at the Binnacle only has
one white wire as a connection...there is (are) no other places on
the back of the fixture to connect other wires.  So if my old fixture
has 3 connections (assuming it does but I have not removed it to be
sure) and this new fixture only has one 'white wire', how do you 
connect it?


As you can tell, I am no electrician.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

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you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!



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Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread robert via CnC-List
I always understood the 'steaming light' was the one I am talking 
about.the one on the front of the mast, not the one on top of the mast.


Interesting my brother's boat is a 2007 Hunter 33 and it does not have a 
'steaming light' on the front of his mast.  Wonder why Hunter would not 
have put one there if it is a legal requirement?


I will replace mine later in the Fall when the mast is down with a 
quality fixtureprobably an Aqua Signal for 3X the cost.


Rob Abbott

On 2016-09-12 12:26 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:
I think whoever told you that is mistaken; the steaming light is NOT 
an all-around light, and is made to combine with the nav lights to 
show the proper lighting arrangement while moving under power.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Sep 12, 2016, at 10:24 AM, robert via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


The light I am talking about is the one 1/2 up the front of the mast 
just above the spreadersnot the one on the top of the mast seen 
360 degrees..I was told the one on the front of the mast is 
longer a legal requirement but the one on the top of the mast is a 
legal requirement when motoring or motor sailing.


Am I correct?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




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greatly appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread LKL via CnC-List

If my cheat sheet is current it says:

When Under Power:  You must use your navigation and steaming lights.

When Under Sail:  Use either your masthead tricolor or deck level navigation 
lights, but not both


Lloyd Lippe
Finesse
1985 C&C Landfall 39  

 

 




From: robert via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 11:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List Electrical Question

I always understood the 'steaming light' was the one I am talking about.the 
one on the front of the mast, not the one on top of the mast.  

Interesting my brother's boat is a 2007 Hunter 33 and it does not have a 
'steaming light' on the front of his mast.  Wonder why Hunter would not have 
put one there if it is a legal requirement?

I will replace mine later in the Fall when the mast is down with a quality 
fixtureprobably an Aqua Signal for 3X the cost.

Rob Abbott



   

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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread Michael Crombie via CnC-List

I believe the confusion here is because in the COLREGS the "steaming light" is 
referred to as a masthead light.   On most sailboats it is not at the top of 
the mast.  People confuse "masthead" with the all around anchor light.

If you are under power (sails up or not) you must display the masthead light 
which lights up an arc of 225 degrees.   The other point of confusion may be 
that if a vessel is less than 12m in length, she can display an all around 
white light instead of the mastlight and sternlight. 

The tricolour light can be used if the vessel is less than 20m.

Mike
Atacama 33mkii
Toronto 


Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread David via CnC-List
Yup

I have been confused many times offshore by those who are sporting the tri and 
the steaming light.   Not fun at 3:00am trying to figure out what is coming at 
you.


David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2016 11:43:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Question
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: lklarchite...@gmail.com






 
If my cheat sheet is current it says:
 
When Under Power:  You must use your navigation and steaming 
lights.
 
When Under Sail:  Use either your masthead tricolor or deck 
level navigation lights, but not both
 
 
Lloyd Lippe
Finesse
1985 C&C Landfall 39  












 

 
 


 

From: robert via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 11:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List Electrical Question
 
I 
always understood the 'steaming light' was the one I am talking about.the 
one on the front of the mast, not the one on top of the mast.  


Interesting my brother's boat is a 2007 Hunter 33 and it does not have a 
'steaming light' on the front of his mast.  Wonder why Hunter would not 
have put one there if it is a legal requirement?

I will replace mine 
later in the Fall when the mast is down with a quality fixtureprobably an 
Aqua Signal for 3X the cost.

Rob Abbott


 

   
___






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the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us 
pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly 
appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List Asymmetric spinnaker short handed. 33-2?

2016-09-12 Thread Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List
Maybe it's standard and I haven't noticed enough boats, but I saw a couple 
where the cam cleat at the mast was offset slightly so that a pull on the 
halyard from the cockpit would uncleat it without going to the mast.RonWild 
CheriC&C 30-1STL


  From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Cc: "Hoyt, Mike" 
 Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 7:34 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Asymmetric spinnaker short handed. 33-2?
   
Dave

The Frers 33 is remarkably similar to C&C 33-2.  It also has three mast 
halyards forward.  The outer ones are most certainly port and stbd spin 
halyards.  One reason NOT to have one of the spin halyards at mast and other in 
cockpit is that a spin will always want to be hoisted on whichever halyard is 
on the leeward is at hoist time.

Persistence has an oversized anchor roller that protruded a bit in front of 
bow.  We have a bail on this that we put a side opening block on.  We simply 
run the spin downhaul thru this for a tack line.  Any gybes are best done 
forward of forestay. Since spin halyards are expected to have loads to the 
sides that should not be any different with asym than with symmetric spin.  
Note that we have had no issues with this setup using the sock or without the 
sock on our asym.  

For your mast comments why not a cleat at the mast.  Something maybe like a J 
Boat where it has a cam cleat at mast and is also run back to coachroof.  
Alternatively a horn cleat at mast (likely is one there already for some other 
purpose) and when short handed cleat it there.  The rest of the halyard could 
still be run back to cockpit with the excess either bundled at mast or in 
cockpit at your discretion.


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Re: Stus-List Asymmetric spinnaker short handed. 33-2?

2016-09-12 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
I've seen that on several boats and added it to my 35/3.  The only caveat
is that the pit and mast need to know who has the halyard cleated.
Otherwise douse does not happen.

Joel

On Mon, Sep 12, 2016 at 12:09 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Maybe it's standard and I haven't noticed enough boats, but I saw a
> couple where the cam cleat at the mast was offset slightly so that a pull
> on the halyard from the cockpit would uncleat it without going to the mast.
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C&C 30-1
> STL
>
>
>
> --
> *From:* "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
> *To:* "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> *Cc:* "Hoyt, Mike" 
> *Sent:* Monday, September 12, 2016 7:34 AM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Asymmetric spinnaker short handed. 33-2?
>
> Dave
>
> The Frers 33 is remarkably similar to C&C 33-2.  It also has three mast
> halyards forward.  The outer ones are most certainly port and stbd spin
> halyards.  One reason NOT to have one of the spin halyards at mast and
> other in cockpit is that a spin will always want to be hoisted on whichever
> halyard is on the leeward is at hoist time.
>
> Persistence has an oversized anchor roller that protruded a bit in front
> of bow.  We have a bail on this that we put a side opening block on.  We
> simply run the spin downhaul thru this for a tack line.  Any gybes are best
> done forward of forestay. Since spin halyards are expected to have loads to
> the sides that should not be any different with asym than with symmetric
> spin.  Note that we have had no issues with this setup using the sock or
> without the sock on our asym.
>
> For your mast comments why not a cleat at the mast.  Something maybe like
> a J Boat where it has a cam cleat at mast and is also run back to
> coachroof.  Alternatively a horn cleat at mast (likely is one there already
> for some other purpose) and when short handed cleat it there.  The rest of
> the halyard could still be run back to cockpit with the excess either
> bundled at mast or in cockpit at your discretion.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List BlackWatch - C&C 39 - world tour

2016-09-12 Thread Adam Trackracer via CnC-List
I got a 1988 Scanmar monitor Windvane for cheap and worked with Scanmar and a 
welder to get it back to modern spec.  Used that for half the trip until it was 
too light (<8) and then used my raymarine wheel pilot.  The wheel pilot isn't 
supposed to be used with my heavy boat but it's done fine so long as It's 
pretty Calm or motoring.  Also have a tiller pilot that I mount straight to the 
spokes on the wheel, that works great for calm conditions too and is very cheap.

I'll try and write a bit about all the projects;

Autopilot systems
Solar & batteries
Steering system rebuild
Propeller 
Ssb
Interior rebuild
Windlass/anchor
Bimini
Engine overhaul (yanmar 3gm30)

Missing some other stuff but It took 5months non stop to get ready

Thanks!
Adam



> On Sep 12, 2016, at 7:15 AM, Patrick Davin  wrote:
> 
> Congrats on the successful passage! I'm subscribed now and look forward to 
> more.
> 
> From the project pics it looks like you did a lot in only a year. Too bad the 
> blog wasn't started earlier - would be great to hear about some of those. 
> What kind of wind vane do you have? I saw it in the pictures but couldn't 
> recognize the brand. I take it you don't have an electric autopilot and used 
> that exclusively?
> 
> -Patrick
> S/V Violet Hour, Seattle, WA
> '84 C&C LF38
>  
>> On Thu, Sep 1, 2016 at 7:28 PM, Adam Trackracer via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list at cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>> > Thought you guys might like this,  me and my girl are sailin to the South
>> > Pacific and beyond on our 1973 C&C39, took me a while to find a 39
>> > (favorite c&c) I'll post projects and picks, ask me anything,  peace.
>> >
>> > Svblackwatch.wordpress.com
>> >
> 
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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
Jonathan,

There are no differences between Canada and the US. As you said, it is a 
international rule.

You said: “When under power, whether the sails are up or not, a sail boat MUST 
display the red / green bow lights and stern light AND a steaming / masthead 
light.” This is not entirely correct. You have to display a white light 360 
degrees AND the red/green side lights. The rule does not specify How you should 
display that 360 degree white light. It can be a single light (as long as, when 
you could see the side lights, it is above them) or it can be a combination of 
the stern light and the steaming light (i.e. the two lights complement each 
other to complete a full 360 degree visibility).

So theoretically (and I do not intend to defend Hunter for doing it this way; I 
thin it is silly) you can have a mast-top white 360 degree light and a stern 
white light on separate switches and use one (stern light) when you are sailing 
and the other (mast-top) when motoring (and they have to be mutually 
exclusive). You would have to have the side lights (red/green) on a separate 
switch, as well.

btw. I think that if one was showing a 360 degree white light and the side 
lights, one would be considered a “vessel under power” (regardless if your 
motor is on or off). The only confusion would be that of that vessel’s skipper 
(he might think he was a sailing vessel, but nobody else would).

Marek
C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON

From: Indigo via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 09:47
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Indigo 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

As far as I know the various navigation light combinations for boats are 
international. There should be no difference in requirement between countries - 
that would be highly dangerous. Nav lights have two functions - type of vessel 
identification, and vessel heading identification.  When under power, whether 
the sails are up or not, a sail boat MUST display the red / green bow lights 
and stern light AND a steaming / masthead light. The steaming / masthead light 
must be higher than the red / green bow lights - which is why it is not correct 
to use a masthead tricolor with a steaming/masthead light.   If under sail 
alone one should not display a steaming/masthead light otherwise you might be 
confused for a vessel under power. Might be bad where a possibility of 
collision exists.!

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Sep 12, 2016, at 09:19, Ron Ricci via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>   "It is not required under sail."


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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
For that you can always put a combination light (red over green, 360 degrees) 
at the top of the mast (in ADDITION to the normal stern and side lights).

I don’t want to hop on a high horse, but ANY variation from the rules creates a 
confusion.

Though, I agree that in a swell the normal navigation lights that we carry 
(what? 3-4 ft. above water?) are simply not visible. I remember a situation 
when, at night off-shore, we sailed probably less then 100 m from another 
sailboat (fortunately on parallel courses) and weren’t aware of each other for 
a long time, because we were a few waves away and either them or us were in the 
trough and the waves obscured the other vessel's lights.

Of course we all are guilty of not following the rules (e.g. raise hand who 
regularly displays a day shape when anchoring (for extra points, who knows what 
the day shape for anchoring is), or worse yet – who regularly (or even 
occasionally) displays the day shape that is required for a sailing vessel 
under auxiliary power? (double points if you know what that one is without 
looking up)).

Marek

From: Petar Horvatic via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 10:00
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Petar Horvatic 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

On the high seas, especially in swell, those deck level running lights might
be useless.  Typical example is crossing the gulf stream from FL to Bahamas.
There is so much traffic there and if swell is up, deck level lights are not
visible.  Shipping lanes are very busy down there.  To me, safety is more
important than if red/green are below or above the steaming light.
Tri-color takes priority for overnight crossings and offshore passages
regardless of what the rules are, especially if going solo.  


Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 C&C 38MkII
Newport, RI


  


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 9:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Indigo
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

As far as I know the various navigation light combinations for boats are
international. There should be no difference in requirement between
countries - that would be highly dangerous. Nav lights have two functions -
type of vessel identification, and vessel heading identification.  When
under power, whether the sails are up or not, a sail boat MUST display the
red / green bow lights and stern light AND a steaming / masthead light. The
steaming / masthead light must be higher than the red / green bow lights -
which is why it is not correct to use a masthead tricolor with a
steaming/masthead light.   If under sail alone one should not display a
steaming/masthead light otherwise you might be confused for a vessel under
power. Might be bad where a possibility of collision exists.!

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Sep 12, 2016, at 09:19, Ron Ricci via CnC-List 
wrote:
> 
>   "It is not required under sail."


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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question -> are you towing ?

2016-09-12 Thread Dreuge via CnC-List
Using a tri-color mast light and a steaming light could confuse your vessel 
with a vessel towing an object(side views have colored light above white 
light).It can take only one late night encounter with a towing vessel to 
appreciate the different light arrangements used for navigation.

Of course, I agree that safety is most important, but it is just as or more 
important not to rely on others seeing you but that you see them.  One of the 
best and extremely affordable safety investment I’ve made was the purchase of a 
Standard Horizon VHF with AIS.   I have the AIS signal connected to my chart 
plotter to show AIS data and alarms. Some times, its a PITA(or bonus) when 
folks leave their AIS on while at the dock, but when sailing offshore in high 
traffic areas, it is great to have the AIS alarm and comforting to see the AIS 
data right on the chart plotter.   Receiving the vessels MMSI allows for easy 
DSC VHF calling.   More often than not, friendly late night chats are not only 
informative but enjoyable for both.   
 
-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Sep 12, 2016, at 10:25 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2016 09:59:26 -0400
> From: "Petar Horvatic" mailto:phorv...@gmail.com>>
> To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Question
> Message-ID: <007d01d20cfd$e087efb0$a197cf10$@com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> On the high seas, especially in swell, those deck level running lights might
> be useless.  Typical example is crossing the gulf stream from FL to Bahamas.
> There is so much traffic there and if swell is up, deck level lights are not
> visible.  Shipping lanes are very busy down there.  To me, safety is more
> important than if red/green are below or above the steaming light.
> Tri-color takes priority for overnight crossings and offshore passages
> regardless of what the rules are, especially if going solo.  
> 
> 
> Petar Horvatic
> Sundowner
> 76 C&C 38MkII
> Newport, RI

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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
Under power you cannot display 360 degree red/green light.

If you have a tricolour (segments + anchor), your 135 degree stern segment 
should be off when you turn on the anchor light, i.e. you would not display two 
lights towards the stern). However, the lights would be inverted (white is 
below red/green).

Marek

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 10:22
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

So if you have a combo tricolor/anchor masthead light and you are under power 
should they both be on? 

Joel

On Mon, Sep 12, 2016 at 9:59 AM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  On the high seas, especially in swell, those deck level running lights might
  be useless. Typical example is crossing the gulf stream from FL to Bahamas.
  There is so much traffic there and if swell is up, deck level lights are not
  visible. Shipping lanes are very busy down there. To me, safety is more
  important than if red/green are below or above the steaming light.
  Tri-color takes priority for overnight crossings and offshore passages
  regardless of what the rules are, especially if going solo.


  Petar Horvatic
  Sundowner
  76 C&C 38MkII
  Newport, RI





  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo
  via CnC-List

  Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 9:46 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Indigo
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

  As far as I know the various navigation light combinations for boats are
  international. There should be no difference in requirement between
  countries - that would be highly dangerous. Nav lights have two functions -
  type of vessel identification, and vessel heading identification. When
  under power, whether the sails are up or not, a sail boat MUST display the
  red / green bow lights and stern light AND a steaming / masthead light. The
  steaming / masthead light must be higher than the red / green bow lights -
  which is why it is not correct to use a masthead tricolor with a
  steaming/masthead light. If under sail alone one should not display a
  steaming/masthead light otherwise you might be confused for a vessel under
  power. Might be bad where a possibility of collision exists.!

  --
  Jonathan
  Indigo C&C 35III
  SOUTHPORT CT

  > On Sep 12, 2016, at 09:19, Ron Ricci via CnC-List 
  wrote:
  >
  > "It is not required under sail."


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  what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
  are greatly appreciated!


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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551___

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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
Rob,

As Frederick said, whoever told you that was mistaken. 

This illustrates what you have to show: 
http://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Navigation-Light-Rules (scroll down to a 
picture at the bottom of the page).  Keep in mind that HOW you display the 
light is up to you (one light, combination of several lights), as long as you 
display the RIGHT COLOURS and in the RIGHT SEGMENTS.

Marek

From: robert via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 11:29
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List Electrical Question

Marek:

The light on the front of the mast about 1/2 way up just above the spreaders is 
the one I am talking about..I was told it is no longer a legal requirement 
but the 'anchor light' at the top of the mast is a legal requirement..it 
can be seen 360 degrees but the light 1/2 way up the front of the mast can not 
be seen 360 degrees.

I didn't think a single wire made sense also and did not buy the fixture. I 
will buy the more expensive Aqua Signal.

Thanks all for your input.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S. 


On 2016-09-12 10:24 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:

  Rob,
  I am not sure to which part you refer as “no longer legally required”. You 
don’t need the deck light, for sure, but you do need a steaming light, unless 
you can show a 360 degrees white light in some other way (e.g. turn off the 
stern light and turn on the anchor light at the top of the mast).
  A single wire out of the combination light does not make sense. You need at 
least two, unless they try using the mast as the ground (then I would not buy 
it). Most of the combo lights come with separate leads for each function, i.e. 
negative/ground (usually common), positive - steaming, positive - deck light. 
Some combo lights had a switch in the unit that allow to run the power with a 
single positive wire (plus the negative). If this is one like that, the switch 
turns e.g. steaming light when you turn it on, but if you switch it off and on 
again, it would turn the deck light, and again - both. You would have to decide 
if that meets your needs.
  If it really has a single wire, I am afraid, you will have to bite the bullet 
and spend twice (3x?) as much on the Aqua Signal. 
  Marine Outfitters (Kingston) has very similar light (for very similar price) 
with 3 wires: 
http://www.marineoutfitters.ca/index.cfm?category=10002|1|11312&product=38614998&code=90021547.
  Marek
  From: robert via CnC-List 
  Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 08:50
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: robert 
  Subject: Stus-List Electrical Question
  When up the mast the other day, I noticed that my 'Steaming, Bow, 
  Foredeck Light' was in pretty bad shape.probably the original 32 
  years old. Will probably replace it when the mast is hauled later this 
  Fall although I understand this light is no longer legally 
  required...but I do like the halogen foredeck light.

  I found this one linked below at the Binnacle...almost similar to 
  the existing one:

  
Lights-Steaming-Spreader-&-Deck-Lights/c23_156/p1349/AAA-MASTHEAD-/-DECK-LIGHT/product_info.html

  It appears, without removing mine, that there are three (3) white wires 
  exiting the foot of the mast connecting to 'green, red and black' 
  ..I assume the green is negative, red is positive and black in ground.

  Here's the question..the new light fixture at the Binnacle only has 
  one white wire as a connection...there is (are) no other places on 
  the back of the fixture to connect other wires. So if my old fixture 
  has 3 connections (assuming it does but I have not removed it to be 
  sure) and this new fixture only has one 'white wire', how do you connect it?

  As you can tell, I am no electrician.

  Rob Abbott
  AZURA
  C&C 32 - 84
  Halifax, N.S.

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  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


   

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Re: Stus-List Autohelm ST4000+ configuration settings for 33

2016-09-12 Thread Free Girls Sailing via CnC-List
Ours doesn't work at all it shows the wrong compass heading and gradually
steers further and further off course until we're doing doughnuts. I've
been wondering what to do with it.
Jessica

On Saturday, September 10, 2016, dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> It won't work well unless you have the rudder angle sensor installed I
> tried to avoid getting down below to install that rudder angle sensor and
> the unit just didn't work right until I spent many hours in a cramped space
> and got it done been fine ever since. Also check the connections from the
> flux gate compass on the back of the control head just pull each one off
> and then connect it again and check your compass deviation as per the manual
>
> On Monday, September 5, 2016, Doug Welch via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
>> I have just acquired a new to me ST4000+ and am having trouble with the
>> autopilot snaking through the water with each turn taking me farther off
>> course. I hope this is a configuration issue and would appreciate any input
>> on the correct settings. I have a 33-2.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Doug
>>
>
>
> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
>
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Stus-List 1985 C&C 33-2 Cradle Needed

2016-09-12 Thread Raymond Macklin via CnC-List
I am not familiar with the cradle process and wanted to know how do I get
or find a cradle for my 1985 C&C 33-2?

Ray Macklin
LakeHouse
Milwaukee, WI
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Re: Stus-List Asymmetric spinnaker short handed. 33-2?

2016-09-12 Thread Charlie Nelson via CnC-List

I think ASPLTD sells what is called a halyard parking bracket which is a 
commercial version of a 'reverse' cleat at the mast for the spin halyard.
 
Basically it is a cam cleat that mounts on a bracket such that the opening 
(top?) of the cleat faces the mast. That way, when the kite is hoisted, the 
mast person is
pulling the halyard thru the cleat away from the mast and when it is made, the 
cleat holds the halyard.
 
This allows the pit to do other things while the kite is hoisted and then take 
up the spin halyard slack later which, because of how the bracket is mounted, 
pulls the halyard out of the bracket so it is ready to douse.

Of course, if left in the bracket for the douse, things go very "awry".

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb
Oriental, NC.
 
cenel...@aol.com

 
 
-Original Message-
From: Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
Sent: Mon, Sep 12, 2016 12:10 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Asymmetric spinnaker short handed. 33-2?



Maybe it's standard and I haven't noticed enough boats, but I saw a couple 
where the cam cleat at the mast was offset slightly so that a pull on the 
halyard from the cockpit would uncleat it without going to the mast.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL





  
 
 
  
 From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Cc: "Hoyt, Mike" 
 Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 7:34 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Asymmetric spinnaker short handed. 33-2?
  
 

Dave

The Frers 33 is remarkably similar to C&C 33-2.  It also has three mast 
halyards forward.  The outer ones are most certainly port and stbd spin 
halyards.  One reason NOT to have one of the spin halyards at mast and other in 
cockpit is that a spin will always want to be hoisted on whichever halyard is 
on the leeward is at hoist time.

Persistence has an oversized anchor roller that protruded a bit in front of 
bow.  We have a bail on this that we put a side opening block on.  We simply 
run the spin downhaul thru this for a tack line.  Any gybes are best done 
forward of forestay. Since spin halyards are expected to have loads to the 
sides that should not be any different with asym than with symmetric spin.  
Note that we have had no issues with this setup using the sock or without the 
sock on our asym.  

For your mast comments why not a cleat at the mast.  Something maybe like a J 
Boat where it has a cam cleat at mast and is also run back to coachroof.  
Alternatively a horn cleat at mast (likely is one there already for some other 
purpose) and when short handed cleat it there.  The rest of the halyard could 
still be run back to cockpit with the excess either bundled at mast or in 
cockpit at your discretion.



 
 
  

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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread Indigo via CnC-List
Marek
To be pedantic - you are correct for boats up to 12 meters (40ft approx) 
(combined all round white is acceptable - but has to be 1 meter above the side 
lights) but the regs require separate steaming / masthead and stern lights 
above that size unless the boat is greater than 20 meters when two masthead 
lights are required. (I do wonder how large, single masted sail boats comply?)

I agree that being visible to other boats is important - but no where near as 
important as keeping ones own lookout (Navigation Rule #1) (Can single-handed 
long distance boaters really comply?)) and being able to quickly identify the 
type and heading of nearby vessels. For this we need other vessels to display 
the correct lights. Think of the danger that would arise if a tug boat captain 
decided to put an all round white on his towed barge - just to make it more 
visible. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Sep 12, 2016, at 12:26, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> This is not entirely correct. You have to display a white light 360 degrees 
> AND the red/green side lights. The rule does not specify How you should 
> display that 360 degree white light. It can be a single light (as long as, 
> when you could see the side lights, it is above them) or it can be a 
> combination o


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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
Jonathan,

I would never advocate for non-standard lights. I fully agree that the rules 
are there, so that we can identify other vessels quickly and without mistake.

And yes, sorry, I was trying to be pedantic.

Marek

From: Indigo via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 13:45
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Indigo 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

Marek
To be pedantic - you are correct for boats up to 12 meters (40ft approx) 
(combined all round white is acceptable - but has to be 1 meter above the side 
lights) but the regs require separate steaming / masthead and stern lights 
above that size unless the boat is greater than 20 meters when two masthead 
lights are required. (I do wonder how large, single masted sail boats comply?)

I agree that being visible to other boats is important - but no where near as 
important as keeping ones own lookout (Navigation Rule #1) (Can single-handed 
long distance boaters really comply?)) and being able to quickly identify the 
type and heading of nearby vessels. For this we need other vessels to display 
the correct lights. Think of the danger that would arise if a tug boat captain 
decided to put an all round white on his towed barge - just to make it more 
visible. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

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Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33-2 Cradle Needed

2016-09-12 Thread Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
There is a well known (at least here) Marine Cradle Shop 
(http://www.cradleridetrailers.com/) just N of Toronto. In our Club probably 
80% of cradles are made by them. They have the plans, so you just tell them the 
boat model you have and they would make it for you and even deliver, if you ask.

But any decent welding/fabrication shop can make you one.

Marek
Ottawa, ON

From: Raymond Macklin via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 13:15
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Raymond Macklin 
Subject: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33-2 Cradle Needed

I am not familiar with the cradle process and wanted to know how do I get or 
find a cradle for my 1985 C&C 33-2? 

Ray Macklin
LakeHouse
Milwaukee, WI___

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Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33-2 Cradle Needed (Raymond Macklin)

2016-09-12 Thread Lee Rosenbaum via CnC-List
Ray:  I have a 1985 C&C 33-2 in Kenosha with a cradle.
Your free to take any measurements you need to have one made.
I imported the boat & cradle from Toronto this past May.

Lee Rosenbaum
1985 C&C 33-2
Kookaburra
Kenosha, WI


> --
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2016 12:12:43 -0500
> From: Raymond Macklin 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33-2 Cradle Needed
> Message-ID:
>  mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I am not familiar with the cradle process and wanted to know how do I get
> or find a cradle for my 1985 C&C 33-2?
>
> Ray Macklin
> LakeHouse
> Milwaukee, WI
>
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Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33-2 Cradle Needed (Raymond Macklin)

2016-09-12 Thread Jim Reinardy via CnC-List
Ray,

Where are you storing the boat for the winter?  Some of the yards in Milwaukee 
prefer jack stands or can at least accommodate them in lieu of cradles.

Jim Reinardy
C&C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI

Get Outlook for iOS




On Mon, Sep 12, 2016 at 1:40 PM -0500, "Lee Rosenbaum via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Ray:  I have a 1985 C&C 33-2 in Kenosha with a cradle.
Your free to take any measurements you need to have one made.
I imported the boat & cradle from Toronto this past May.

Lee Rosenbaum
1985 C&C 33-2
Kookaburra
Kenosha, WI

--

Message: 3
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2016 12:12:43 -0500
From: Raymond Macklin mailto:ray.mack...@gmail.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33-2 Cradle Needed
Message-ID:

mailto:6dt6bljnb1ae6yz9cma--htbf4bpaf-y_pzavmc_zjc_...@mail.gmail.com>>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I am not familiar with the cradle process and wanted to know how do I get
or find a cradle for my 1985 C&C 33-2?

Ray Macklin
LakeHouse
Milwaukee, WI
___

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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread jhnelson via CnC-List


Nope as you would then be displaying the lights of a vessel greater than 50m at 
anchor as seen from directly astern.
A picture is worth a lot and here is a good 
example:Www.westmarine.com/westadvisor/navigation-light-rules


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: robert via CnC-List  
Date: 2016-09-12  12:24 PM  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: robert  
Subject: Stus-List Electrical Question 


The light I am talking about is the one 1/2 up the front of the mast
just above the spreadersnot the one on the top of the mast seen
360 degrees..I was told the one on the front of the mast is
longer a legal requirement but the one on the top of the mast is a
legal requirement when motoring or motor sailing.



Am I correct?



Rob Abbott

AZURA

C&C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.







On 2016-09-12 10:11 AM, Frederick G
  Street via CnC-List wrote:



  
  Rob — unless there have been changes in regs that I’m not aware
  of, a steaming light (also referred to as a masthead light) IS still 
required, when motoring at night, along
  with the bow (or sidelights) and stern light.  Maybe Canadian regs
  are different.
  

  
  On your existing fixture, the black is probably a
common ground for the deck and steaming light; the red and green
will be separate positive leads for each of the two lights.
  

  
  The replacement light from the Binnacle may only
show one white wire; but my guess is that it contains three
conductors, the same as the existing fixture.
  

  
  — Fred


  
  



  

  


  Fred Street -- Minneapolis

  S/V Oceanis (1979
  C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield,
  WI
  

  

  
  
  





  
On Sep 12, 2016, at 7:49 AM, robert via
  CnC-List 
  wrote:


When
up the mast the other day, I noticed that my 'Steaming,
Bow, Foredeck Light' was in pretty bad
shape.probably the original 32 years old.  Will
probably replace it when the mast is hauled later this
Fall although I understand this light is no longer
legally required...but I do like the halogen
foredeck light.

  

  I
found this one linked below at the Binnacle...almost
similar to the existing one:

  

  
Lights-Steaming-Spreader-&-Deck-Lights/c23_156/p1349/AAA-MASTHEAD-/-DECK-LIGHT/product_info.html

  

  It
appears, without removing mine, that there are three (3)
white wires exiting the foot of the mast connecting to
'green, red and black' ..I assume the green is
negative, red is positive and black in ground.

  

  Here's
the question..the new light fixture at the Binnacle
only has one white wire as a connection...there is
(are) no other places on the back of the fixture to
connect other wires. So if my old fixture has 3
connections (assuming it does but I have not removed it
to be sure) and this new fixture only has one 'white
wire', how do you connect it?

  

  As
you can tell, I am no electrician.

  

  Rob
Abbott

  AZURA

  C&C
32 - 84

  Halifax,
N.S.
  



  
  

  
  

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greatly appreciated!


Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread Jerome Tauber via CnC-List
The forward 225 degree light halfway up the mast is a steaming or masthead 
light.  The 360 degree on top of the mast is an anchor light.  The steaming 
light should be shown while under power at night and the anchor light while at 
anchor (not under way) but not required at a legal anchorage.  Jerry J&J. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 12, 2016, at 3:24 PM, jhnelson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Nope as you would then be displaying the lights of a vessel greater than 50m 
> at anchor as seen from directly astern.
> 
> A picture is worth a lot and here is a good example:
> Www.westmarine.com/westadvisor/navigation-light-rules
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Samsung device
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: robert via CnC-List  
> Date: 2016-09-12 12:24 PM (GMT-04:00) 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: robert  
> Subject: Stus-List Electrical Question 
> 
> The light I am talking about is the one 1/2 up the front of the mast just 
> above the spreadersnot the one on the top of the mast seen 360 
> degrees..I was told the one on the front of the mast is longer a legal 
> requirement but the one on the top of the mast is a legal requirement when 
> motoring or motor sailing.
> 
> Am I correct?
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
> 
>> On 2016-09-12 10:11 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:
>> Rob — unless there have been changes in regs that I’m not aware   of, a 
>> steaming light (also referred to as a masthead light) IS still required, 
>> when motoring at night, along with the bow (or sidelights) and stern light.  
>> Maybe Canadian regs are different.
>> 
>> On your existing fixture, the black is probably a common ground for the deck 
>> and steaming light; the red and green will be separate positive leads for 
>> each of the two lights.
>> 
>> The replacement light from the Binnacle may only show one white wire; but my 
>> guess is that it contains three conductors, the same as the existing fixture.
>> 
>> — Fred
>> 
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>> 
>>> On Sep 12, 2016, at 7:49 AM, robert via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> When up the mast the other day, I noticed that my 'Steaming, Bow, Foredeck 
>>> Light' was in pretty bad shape.probably the original 32 years old.  
>>> Will probably replace it when the mast is hauled later this Fall although I 
>>> understand this light is no longer legally required...but I do like the 
>>> halogen foredeck light.
>>> 
>>> I found this one linked below at the Binnacle...almost similar to the 
>>> existing one:
>>> 
>>> Lights-Steaming-Spreader-&-Deck-Lights/c23_156/p1349/AAA-MASTHEAD-/-DECK-LIGHT/product_info.html
>>> 
>>> It appears, without removing mine, that there are three (3) white wires 
>>> exiting the foot of the mast connecting to 'green, red and black' ..I 
>>> assume the green is negative, red is positive and black in ground.
>>> 
>>> Here's the question..the new light fixture at the Binnacle only has one 
>>> white wire as a connection...there is (are) no other places on the back 
>>> of the fixture to connect other wires. So if my old fixture has 3 
>>> connections (assuming it does but I have not removed it to be sure) and 
>>> this new fixture only has one 'white wire', how do you connect it?
>>> 
>>> As you can tell, I am no electrician.
>>> 
>>> Rob Abbott
>>> AZURA
>>> C&C 32 - 84
>>> Halifax, N.S.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread David via CnC-List
Right except you may have meant anchor light not required when anchored in a 
mooring field?   An anchor light  is still required otherwise even in a 
"designated" (per chart) anchorage.

I learned that from the Coasties who made me put one up one fine evening...



David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2016 15:55:07 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Question
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: jrtau...@aol.com

The forward 225 degree light halfway up the mast is a steaming or masthead 
light.  The 360 degree on top of the mast is an anchor light.  The steaming 
light should be shown while under power at night and the anchor light while at 
anchor (not under way) but not required at a legal anchorage.  Jerry J&J. 

Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 12, 2016, at 3:24 PM, jhnelson via CnC-List  
wrote:



Nope as you would then be displaying the lights of a vessel greater than 50m at 
anchor as seen from directly astern.
A picture is worth a lot and here is a good 
example:Www.westmarine.com/westadvisor/navigation-light-rules


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: robert via CnC-List  
Date: 2016-09-12  12:24 PM  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: robert  
Subject: Stus-List Electrical Question 


The light I am talking about is the one 1/2 up the front of the mast
just above the spreadersnot the one on the top of the mast seen
360 degrees..I was told the one on the front of the mast is
longer a legal requirement but the one on the top of the mast is a
legal requirement when motoring or motor sailing.



Am I correct?



Rob Abbott

AZURA

C&C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.







On 2016-09-12 10:11 AM, Frederick G
  Street via CnC-List wrote:



  
  Rob — unless there have been changes in regs that I’m not aware
  of, a steaming light (also referred to as a masthead light) IS still 
required, when motoring at night, along
  with the bow (or sidelights) and stern light.  Maybe Canadian regs
  are different.
  

  
  On your existing fixture, the black is probably a
common ground for the deck and steaming light; the red and green
will be separate positive leads for each of the two lights.
  

  
  The replacement light from the Binnacle may only
show one white wire; but my guess is that it contains three
conductors, the same as the existing fixture.
  

  
  — Fred


  
  



  

  

  Fred Street -- Minneapolis

  S/V Oceanis (1979
  C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield,
  WI
  

  

  
  
  





  
On Sep 12, 2016, at 7:49 AM, robert via
  CnC-List 
  wrote:

When
up the mast the other day, I noticed that my 'Steaming,
Bow, Foredeck Light' was in pretty bad
shape.probably the original 32 years old.  Will
probably replace it when the mast is hauled later this
Fall although I understand this light is no longer
legally required...but I do like the halogen
foredeck light.
  
  I
found this one linked below at the Binnacle...almost
similar to the existing one:
  
  
Lights-Steaming-Spreader-&-Deck-Lights/c23_156/p1349/AAA-MASTHEAD-/-DECK-LIGHT/product_info.html
  
  It
appears, without removing mine, that there are three (3)
white wires exiting the foot of the mast connecting to
'green, red and black' ..I assume the green is
negative, red is positive and black in ground.
  
  Here's
the question..the new light fixture at the Binnacle
only has one white wire as a connection...there is
(are) no other places on the back of the fixture to
connect other wires. So if my old fixture has 3
connections (assuming it does but I have not removed it
to be sure) and this new fixture only has one 'white
wire', how do you connect it?
  
  As
you can tell, I am no electricia

Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread BillBinaList via CnC-List

Rule 30 part G of the Colregs says those Coasties flunked their exam. 8-)

—INLAND—
Lights and Shapes
RULE 30— CONTINUED
(g) A vessel of less than 20 meters in length, when at anchor in a 
special anchorage area designated by the Secretary, shall not be 
required to exhibit the anchor lights and shapes required by this Rule.



Bill Bina




On 9/12/2016 5:09 PM, David via CnC-List wrote:
Right except you may have meant anchor light not required when 
anchored in a mooring field?   An anchor light  is still required 
otherwise even in a "designated" (per chart) anchorage.


I learned that from the Coasties who made me put one up one fine 
evening...




David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List
A vessel at anchor should exhibit a white all around light where it can
best be seen by the drunken idiot driving the party barge with no lights
that's roaring through the anchorage at night causing the wake from hell.

Dennis C.

On Mon, Sep 12, 2016 at 4:09 PM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Right except you may have meant anchor light not required when anchored in
> a mooring field?   An anchor light  is still required otherwise even in a
> "designated" (per chart) anchorage.
>
> I learned that from the Coasties who made me put one up one fine evening...
>
>
>
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
> --
> Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2016 15:55:07 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Question
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: jrtau...@aol.com
>
>
> The forward 225 degree light halfway up the mast is a steaming or masthead
> light.  The 360 degree on top of the mast is an anchor light.  The steaming
> light should be shown while under power at night and the anchor light while
> at anchor (not under way) but not required at a legal anchorage.  Jerry
> J&J.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 12, 2016, at 3:24 PM, jhnelson via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Nope as you would then be displaying the lights of a vessel greater than
> 50m at anchor as seen from directly astern.
>
> A picture is worth a lot and here is a good example:
> Www.westmarine.com/westadvisor/navigation-light-rules
>
>
>
> Sent from my Samsung device
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: robert via CnC-List 
> Date: 2016-09-12 12:24 PM (GMT-04:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: robert 
> Subject: Stus-List Electrical Question
>
> The light I am talking about is the one 1/2 up the front of the mast just
> above the spreadersnot the one on the top of the mast seen 360
> degrees..I was told the one on the front of the mast is longer a legal
> requirement but the one on the top of the mast is a legal requirement when
> motoring or motor sailing.
>
> Am I correct?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
> On 2016-09-12 10:11 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Rob — unless there have been changes in regs that I’m not aware of, a
> steaming light (also referred to as a masthead light) *IS* still
> required, when motoring at night, along with the bow (or sidelights) and
> stern light.  Maybe Canadian regs are different.
>
> On your existing fixture, the black is probably a common ground for the
> deck and steaming light; the red and green will be separate positive leads
> for each of the two lights.
>
> The replacement light from the Binnacle may only show one white wire; but
> my guess is that it contains three conductors, the same as the existing
> fixture.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
> On Sep 12, 2016, at 7:49 AM, robert via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> When up the mast the other day, I noticed that my 'Steaming, Bow, Foredeck
> Light' was in pretty bad shape.probably the original 32 years old.
> Will probably replace it when the mast is hauled later this Fall although I
> understand this light is no longer legally required...but I do like the
> halogen foredeck light.
>
> I found this one linked below at the Binnacle...almost similar to the
> existing one:
>
> Lights-Steaming-Spreader-&-Deck-Lights/c23_156/p1349/AAA-
> MASTHEAD-/-DECK-LIGHT/product_info.html
>
> It appears, without removing mine, that there are three (3) white wires
> exiting the foot of the mast connecting to 'green, red and black' ..I
> assume the green is negative, red is positive and black in ground.
>
> Here's the question..the new light fixture at the Binnacle only has
> one white wire as a connection...there is (are) no other places on the
> back of the fixture to connect other wires. So if my old fixture has 3
> connections (assuming it does but I have not removed it to be sure) and
> this new fixture only has one 'white wire', how do you connect it?
>
> As you can tell, I am no electrician.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___ This list is supported by
> the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help
> us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> li

Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread Indigo via CnC-List
I wonder if the Coasties know what 20M means. Maybe they can't tell feet from 
meters. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Sep 12, 2016, at 17:21, BillBinaList via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> A vessel of less than 20 meters in length,


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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
But that is Inland and has to be designated by the Secretary. The fact that it 
is marked on the chart is not enough. 
Marek


Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada's largest network.
 Original message From: BillBinaList via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/12/16  17:22  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: BillBinaList  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Electrical Question 

Rule 30 part G of the Colregs says those Coasties flunked their
  exam. 8-)


—INLAND— 

  Lights and Shapes 

  RULE 30— CONTINUED 

  (g) A vessel of less than 20 meters in length, when at anchor in a
  special anchorage area designated by the Secretary, shall not be
  required to exhibit the anchor lights and shapes required 


  



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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread BillBinaList via CnC-List
Designated anchorages are marked as such on charts. If it just says 
anchorage, it is not a designated anchorage. You would also be amazed at 
what is "inland waters". Most coastal areas are covered.



Bill Bina


On 9/12/2016 5:52 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:
But that is Inland and has to be designated by the Secretary. The fact 
that it is marked on the chart is not enough.


Marek



Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada's largest network.

 Original message 
From: BillBinaList via CnC-List 
Date: 9/12/16 17:22 (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: BillBinaList 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

Rule 30 part G of the Colregs says those Coasties flunked their exam. 8-)

—INLAND—
Lights and Shapes
RULE 30— CONTINUED
(g) A vessel of less than 20 meters in length, when at anchor in a 
special anchorage area designated by the Secretary, shall not be 
required to exhibit the anchor lights and shapes required








___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

2016-09-12 Thread Jerome Tauber via CnC-List
(g) A vessel of less than 20 meters in length, when at anchor in a special 
anchorage area designated by the Secretary, shall not be required to exhibit 
the anchor lights and shapes required by this Rule. [Inld]

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 12, 2016, at 5:09 PM, David via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Right except you may have meant anchor light not required when anchored in a 
> mooring field?   An anchor light  is still required otherwise even in a 
> "designated" (per chart) anchorage.
> 
> I learned that from the Coasties who made me put one up one fine evening...
> 
> 
> 
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> 
> 
> Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2016 15:55:07 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Question
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: jrtau...@aol.com
> 
> The forward 225 degree light halfway up the mast is a steaming or masthead 
> light.  The 360 degree on top of the mast is an anchor light.  The steaming 
> light should be shown while under power at night and the anchor light while 
> at anchor (not under way) but not required at a legal anchorage.  Jerry J&J. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Sep 12, 2016, at 3:24 PM, jhnelson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Nope as you would then be displaying the lights of a vessel greater than 50m 
> at anchor as seen from directly astern.
> 
> A picture is worth a lot and here is a good example:
> Www.westmarine.com/westadvisor/navigation-light-rules
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Samsung device
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: robert via CnC-List  
> Date: 2016-09-12 12:24 PM (GMT-04:00) 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: robert  
> Subject: Stus-List Electrical Question 
> 
> The light I am talking about is the one 1/2 up the front of the mast just 
> above the spreadersnot the one on the top of the mast seen 360 
> degrees..I was told the one on the front of the mast is longer a legal 
> requirement but the one on the top of the mast is a legal requirement when 
> motoring or motor sailing.
> 
> Am I correct?
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
> 
> On 2016-09-12 10:11 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:
> Rob — unless there have been changes in regs that I’m not aware of, a 
> steaming light (also referred to as a masthead light) IS still required, when 
> motoring at night, along with the bow (or sidelights) and stern light.  Maybe 
> Canadian regs are different.
> 
> On your existing fixture, the black is probably a common ground for the deck 
> and steaming light; the red and green will be separate positive leads for 
> each of the two lights.
> 
> The replacement light from the Binnacle may only show one white wire; but my 
> guess is that it contains three conductors, the same as the existing fixture.
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
> On Sep 12, 2016, at 7:49 AM, robert via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> When up the mast the other day, I noticed that my 'Steaming, Bow, Foredeck 
> Light' was in pretty bad shape.probably the original 32 years old.  Will 
> probably replace it when the mast is hauled later this Fall although I 
> understand this light is no longer legally required...but I do like the 
> halogen foredeck light.
> 
> I found this one linked below at the Binnacle...almost similar to the 
> existing one:
> 
> Lights-Steaming-Spreader-&-Deck-Lights/c23_156/p1349/AAA-MASTHEAD-/-DECK-LIGHT/product_info.html
> 
> It appears, without removing mine, that there are three (3) white wires 
> exiting the foot of the mast connecting to 'green, red and black' ..I 
> assume the green is negative, red is positive and black in ground.
> 
> Here's the question..the new light fixture at the Binnacle only has one 
> white wire as a connection...there is (are) no other places on the back 
> of the fixture to connect other wires. So if my old fixture has 3 connections 
> (assuming it does but I have not removed it to be sure) and this new fixture 
> only has one 'white wire', how do you connect it?
> 
> As you can tell, I am no electrician.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___ This list is supported by the 
> generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay 
> for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donat

Stus-List 1985 C&C 33-2 Cradle Needed

2016-09-12 Thread Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List
The company north of Toronto builds a nice fitting cradle for right around 
$2000 last fall when I enquired. I had a look at one and then proceeded to 
build one very similar for about $950 in materials. Could have been cheaper as 
I used heavier material for the base. One of the features is that they fold 
very nearly flat for shipping or storage. 
Brad
"Pulse" 
C&C 33 MKII
Lake Huron


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Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33-2 Cradle Needed

2016-09-12 Thread Don Harben via CnC-List
Hi,

My Viking 34 folding cradle from the Toronto Cradle Shop might be available 
still.

2 hr east of the Sault. www.ncyc.ca

Don

> On Sep 12, 2016, at 9:22 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The company north of Toronto builds a nice fitting cradle for right around 
> $2000 last fall when I enquired. I had a look at one and then proceeded to 
> build one very similar for about $950 in materials. Could have been cheaper 
> as I used heavier material for the base. One of the features is that they 
> fold very nearly flat for shipping or storage. 
> Brad
> "Pulse" 
> C&C 33 MKII
> Lake Huron
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!


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