Re: Stus-List solar power setup Cont...

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Edd- The one I have is not thin enough to open the hatch (probably a bit 
more than an inch thick).  That would be nice, and I am going to think about 
something thin or lighter if/when I have to replace the panel.  But it is not a 
big deal, taking it below when I come to the boat and putting it back when I 
leave and it only cost about $100. Dave

On Mar 3, 2016, at 1:14 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:

> David,
> 
> Is your 50W thin enough to leave on the companionway hatch when sailing? In 
> other words, can it slide with the hatch forward? If so, what panel did you 
> use? 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Mar 3, 2016, at 1:05 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I got a Blue Sea socket and plug and wired the plug to the panel and mounted 
>> the socket near my engine panel and ran that to a Sunsaver Duo controller in 
>> the lazarette and from there up to the battery compartment.  I just plug in 
>> the panel before I leave the boat and unplug when I come back and store the 
>> panel below deck while sailing.  It sits on the companionway hatch cover 
>> while I am gone. I got a 50W panel sized to fit on the hatch and it is heavy 
>> enough with the aluminum frame that it does not blow away.  Dave
>> http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C328%7C2289944%7C2289945&id=1187549
>>  
>> http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C328%7C2289944%7C2289945&id=1187536
>> 
>> Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> 
>>> 
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>> 
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> 
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> 

Dr. David Knecht
Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
Core Microscopy Facility Director
University of Connecticut   
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
Storrs, CT 06269
860-486-2200

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Re: Stus-List Window Replacement

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I discovered, much to my chagrin, that diesel softens 5200.  Also a heated 
putty knife or wire.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2016 1:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Re: Stus-List Window Replacement

 

Charlie;

 

There is a solvent that will loosen the bond of 5200. IIRC it came out about 2 
or 3 years ago. Probably a great demand among folks who have used 5200 for a 
permanent seal on something that should have not have been permanently mounted. 
If I’m not mistaken, you can buy the solvent at West Marine.

 

But I don’t think that 5200 is a suitable material for bonding the acrylic 
windows. My recollection is that 5200 will not properly bond to the acrylic. 
Perhaps someone else on the list can confirm that?

 

The latest discussions on the list seem to agree 3M tape is the way to go for 
bonding, with a sealer to seal the windows. Before that is was Sikaflex295 with 
the appropriate primer (which is what I used very successfully to rebuild my 
A&H hatches). Before that it was Plexus, which was what was apparently used for 
the OEM installation.

 

Makes me kind of happy that both my boats have the old aluminum framed windows 
sealed to the cabin top with butyl. Every 10 years or so I replace the crazed 
lenses and install new EPDM seal and rubber splines. Not nearly as stylish, but 
a whole lot simpler and less expensive.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charlie 
Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2016 11:42 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Window Replacement

 

I heard from my yard manager yesterday that there is now a new chemical spray 
that when used with care and kept moist while it works with a wet rag will 
allow the removal of things attached with 5200. He claimed this was then the 
best adhesive to use for windows and other deck hardware instead of butyl tape.

 

I had planned to have the yard use the 3M tape to hold/seal my new port-lights 
in place when I had new ones made. The current ones are 'screwed' into the 
coach sides and sealed, probably with butyl tape when they were done 10 years 
ago or so.

 

My questions to the list are--has anyone heard of or used this stuff and could 
this be another, perhaps better, solution when replacing the windows?

 

Thanks,

 

Charlie Nelson

1995 C&C 36XL/kcb

Water Phantom

Oriental, NC

 

 

 

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Stus-List Windows ad nauseum

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

The 2 windows I replaced about 7 years ago with Sikka Flex and their primer
have developed a lot of cracks along the top edge.  These cracks are
leaking. I cannot recall if I used polycarbonate or cast acrylic.  Of the 2
choices which would be the better for replacement?  They are relatively
long windows that are held in only by the Sikka Flex.   This time  I plan
to use 3 M tape.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or
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Stus-List AIS on sale FYI

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

We've gone a little overboard stocking up for the boat shows and now need to 
reduce inventory.
Milltech Marine has a sale on now on all AMEC, Vesper Marine and True Heading 
AIS products.
Get 10% off our already low prices including:
*   Class B AIS Transponders
*   Class A AIS Transponders
*   AIS Receivers
*   AIS/VHF Antenna Splitters
*   And more!
Sale ends on Tuesday and applies to current stock only so shop now while 
supplies last.

Safe Boat! ing!
 
Milltech Marine
120 Harrison Ave.
Port Orchard, WA 98366
Phone: 206-299-2217
Web: www.MilltechMarine.com

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Stus-List Birth of a Mega Putt Putt

[Stu via CnC-List]

Gerry Giles has just completed his conversion of a C&C Mega to what he calls a 
“Mega Putt Putt”.

This is not the first time a Mega has been converted – in fact we are still 
looking for the original.

See what Gerry has done at:  
http://mailtrack.me/tracking/raWzMz50paMkCGV4Zmt2ZQN1ZmHzMKWjqzA2pzSaqaR9ZwH2ZGDjBGp1Way2LKu2pG04BQNkZGt1AGx1Cj

Stu___

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Re: Stus-List Windows ad nauseum

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

Acrylic (Plexiglass) cracks easily, but is harder and more scratch resistant 
than polycarbonate (Lexan). Stock car racers use polycarbonate for windshields 
in their short track race cars. It is the more crack and impact resistant of 
the two plastics, but more likely to cloud if you are too aggressive washing 
it. It is a trade off like everything else, but I would lean toward the Lexan 
in that application. Both of my boats have long Plexiglass side windows, and 
both have one side that is cracked vertically more or less in the middle.

Steve Thomas
C&C36
Merritt Island, FL

C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

 Fred Hazzard via CnC-List  wrote: 
The 2 windows I replaced about 7 years ago with Sikka Flex and their primer
have developed a lot of cracks along the top edge.  These cracks are
leaking. I cannot recall if I used polycarbonate or cast acrylic.  Of the 2
choices which would be the better for replacement?  They are relatively
long windows that are held in only by the Sikka Flex.   This time  I plan
to use 3 M tape.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or


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Re: Stus-List Windows ad nauseum

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Plexiglass is very prone to developing cracks from any minor 
imperfections or irregularities in the edges. If you carefully polish 
and buff the edges completely smooth, cracks don't have a way to start 
themselves.


Bill Bina

On 3/4/2016 11:15 AM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List wrote:

Acrylic (Plexiglass) cracks easily, but is harder and more scratch resistant 
than polycarbonate (Lexan). Stock car racers use polycarbonate for windshields 
in their short track race cars. It is the more crack and impact resistant of 
the two plastics, but more likely to cloud if you are too aggressive washing 
it. It is a trade off like everything else, but I would lean toward the Lexan 
in that application. Both of my boats have long Plexiglass side windows, and 
both have one side that is cracked vertically more or less in the middle.

Steve Thomas

 Fred Hazzard via CnC-List  wrote:
The 2 windows I replaced about 7 years ago with Sikka Flex and their primer
have developed a lot of cracks along the top edge.  These cracks are
leaking. I cannot recall if I used polycarbonate or cast acrylic.  Of the 2
choices which would be the better for replacement?  They are relatively
long windows that are held in only by the Sikka Flex.   This time  I plan
to use 3 M tape.

Fred Hazzard



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Re: Stus-List Windows ad nauseum

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I was advised, by a professional, to use a propane torch to finish the edges. 
It makes sense but I would have to practice a bit on scrap before I tried it on 
the real windows.

Al
S.V. Elendil
37/40+


> On Mar 4, 2016, at 8:35 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Plexiglass is very prone to developing cracks from any minor imperfections or 
> irregularities in the edges. If you carefully polish and buff the edges 
> completely smooth, cracks don't have a way to start themselves.
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
>> On 3/4/2016 11:15 AM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List wrote:
>> Acrylic (Plexiglass) cracks easily, but is harder and more scratch resistant 
>> than polycarbonate (Lexan). Stock car racers use polycarbonate for 
>> windshields in their short track race cars. It is the more crack and impact 
>> resistant of the two plastics, but more likely to cloud if you are too 
>> aggressive washing it. It is a trade off like everything else, but I would 
>> lean toward the Lexan in that application. Both of my boats have long 
>> Plexiglass side windows, and both have one side that is cracked vertically 
>> more or less in the middle.
>> 
>> Steve Thomas
>> 
>>  Fred Hazzard via CnC-List  wrote: 
>> The 2 windows I replaced about 7 years ago with Sikka Flex and their primer
>> have developed a lot of cracks along the top edge.  These cracks are
>> leaking. I cannot recall if I used polycarbonate or cast acrylic.  Of the 2
>> choices which would be the better for replacement?  They are relatively
>> long windows that are held in only by the Sikka Flex.   This time  I plan
>> to use 3 M tape.
>> 
>> Fred Hazzard
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Windows ad nauseum

[Tim Sippel via CnC-List]

I have used a propane torch , but these days I’d go with a heat gun …

Tim



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alan Liles 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 04, 2016 11:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Alan Liles
Subject: Re: Stus-List Windows ad nauseum

I was advised, by a professional, to use a propane torch to finish the edges. 
It makes sense but I would have to practice a bit on scrap before I tried it on 
the real windows.

Al
S.V. Elendil
37/40+


On Mar 4, 2016, at 8:35 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Plexiglass is very prone to developing cracks from any minor imperfections or 
irregularities in the edges. If you carefully polish and buff the edges 
completely smooth, cracks don't have a way to start themselves.

Bill Bina
On 3/4/2016 11:15 AM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List wrote:

Acrylic (Plexiglass) cracks easily, but is harder and more scratch resistant 
than polycarbonate (Lexan). Stock car racers use polycarbonate for windshields 
in their short track race cars. It is the more crack and impact resistant of 
the two plastics, but more likely to cloud if you are too aggressive washing 
it. It is a trade off like everything else, but I would lean toward the Lexan 
in that application. Both of my boats have long Plexiglass side windows, and 
both have one side that is cracked vertically more or less in the middle.



Steve Thomas



 Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
 wrote:

The 2 windows I replaced about 7 years ago with Sikka Flex and their primer

have developed a lot of cracks along the top edge.  These cracks are

leaking. I cannot recall if I used polycarbonate or cast acrylic.  Of the 2

choices which would be the better for replacement?  They are relatively

long windows that are held in only by the Sikka Flex.   This time  I plan

to use 3 M tape.



Fred Hazzard



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This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the basis 
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Re: Stus-List Windows ad nauseum

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Professionals sometimes do things because they are faster and more 
efficient, not because they are better. They also get a lot more 
practice! I have finished edges with a torch, and found it leaves you 
with uneven thickness along the edge, which may affect sealing on 
something such as a window. The edge sort of "mushrooms". For some 
applications, that would not be an issue. I find it is not very daunting 
to finish the edges starting with a belt sander and then hand sanding 
with a block before going to a buffing wheel and compound for the final 
polish.


Bill Bina

On 3/4/2016 11:55 AM, Alan Liles via CnC-List wrote:
I was advised, by a professional, to use a propane torch to finish the 
edges. It makes sense but I would have to practice a bit on scrap 
before I tried it on the real windows.


Al
S.V. Elendil
37/40+




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Re: Stus-List Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

I asked ProMariner for some clarification on the battery situation with 2 house 
connected in parallel as one bank and a separate start as a second bank. I also 
asked if there was any issue with using smaller than Group 24 batteries with 
the charger. For example, the OP has a Group 22NF. Another poster identified 
they were using a U1 AGM battery for a start (I’m assuming starting something 
small like an Atomic 4  and I’ve heard of that before).

Answer from ProMariner tech support was that there is no issue with connecting 
the ProSport 20 Plus (3-leg) charger to this battery configuration provided you 
do 1 leg of the charger per battery and that there is no issue connecting to 
any battery that is smaller than the amp-hour size of a typical Group 31.

So there you have it.

If you want to go golf-cart 6V or 12V batteries larger than Group 31 or if you 
want to mix battery technology (i.e. flooded + gel or standard AGM + gel or 
standard AGM + premium AGM or ) then look to another charger. Otherwise, 
fill your boots.

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII

From: Peter Fell 
Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2016 9:28 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement

The 2 group 27 in parallel is covered in the manual but only as an example for 
the 2-bank charger. All the 3-bank charger examples given are 24V applications. 
I don’t think this is an issue.

6-volt golf cart batteries are not an option since the charger won’t do 6-volts 
– only 12V Group 24, 27, 30 and 31 batteries.

By the way, I didn’t notice it originally, but the 3-bank ProSport 20 Plus 
doesn’t have the ‘high performance’ AGM charging profile ... just ‘standard’ 
AGM. 

Here’s a note in one of the manuals that mentions connecting multiple-batteries 
in a bank:

Note: Incorrect wiring will result in reverse polarity or high reverse voltage,
in the event this happens, the ProSport Charger has been designed to not
fail as a result, however it will cause the charger to "internally disconnect"
and provide "no output" until the (reverse polarity) caused by putting the "Red"
+ lead on a - negative battery terminal) and/or the (high reverse DC voltage
caused by taking one bank cable and spreading it across two batteries) is
corrected ...___

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Re: Stus-List Windows ad nauseum

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Interesting discussion.  My acrylic place has advised against doing ANY edge 
finishing of properly-cut cast acrylic, as that will increase the possibility 
of edge crazing or cracking.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Mar 4, 2016, at 11:49 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Professionals sometimes do things because they are faster and more efficient, 
> not because they are better. They also get a lot more practice! I have 
> finished edges with a torch, and found it leaves you with uneven thickness 
> along the edge, which may affect sealing on something such as a window. The 
> edge sort of "mushrooms". For some applications, that would not be an issue. 
> I find it is not very daunting to finish the edges starting with a belt 
> sander and then hand sanding with a block before going to a buffing wheel and 
> compound for the final polish. 
> 
> Bill Bina 
> 
> On 3/4/2016 11:55 AM, Alan Liles via CnC-List wrote:
>> I was advised, by a professional, to use a propane torch to finish the 
>> edges. It makes sense but I would have to practice a bit on scrap before I 
>> tried it on the real windows.
>> 
>> Al
>> S.V. Elendil
>> 37/40+

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Re: Stus-List Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Golf cart 6V batteries should still be okay, as long as they’re connected in 
series pairs to get the voltage up to 12V.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Mar 4, 2016, at 11:50 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I asked ProMariner for some clarification on the battery situation with 2 
> house connected in parallel as one bank and a separate start as a second 
> bank. I also asked if there was any issue with using smaller than Group 24 
> batteries with the charger. For example, the OP has a Group 22NF. Another 
> poster identified they were using a U1 AGM battery for a start (I’m assuming 
> starting something small like an Atomic 4  and I’ve heard of that before).
>  
> Answer from ProMariner tech support was that there is no issue with 
> connecting the ProSport 20 Plus (3-leg) charger to this battery configuration 
> provided you do 1 leg of the charger per battery and that there is no issue 
> connecting to any battery that is smaller than the amp-hour size of a typical 
> Group 31.
>  
> So there you have it.
>  
> If you want to go golf-cart 6V or 12V batteries larger than Group 31 or if 
> you want to mix battery technology (i.e. flooded + gel or standard AGM + gel 
> or standard AGM + premium AGM or ) then look to another charger. 
> Otherwise, fill your boots.
>  
> Peter Fell
> Sidney, BC
> Cygnet
> C&C 27 MkIII

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Stus-List Welding Aluminum

[Stu via CnC-List]

Watched a demonstration yesterday at a local flea market where they welded 
aluminum using a handheld propane torch.

Looked pretty easy and the results were a very strong bond.

Kits are available at:
http://mailtrack.me/tracking/raWzMz50paMkCGV4Zmt5AmL1ZQHzMKWjqzA2pzSaqaR9ZwH2ZGDjBGp1Way2LKu2pG04BQNmAmN1AwplAN

No affiliation with Duluth.

Stu___

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Re: Stus-List Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

No golf cart 6V would not be ok. Amp-hour rating would be far too high. Plus 
the charger can’t do 6v and can’t ‘bridge’ across 2 batteries either in series 
or in parallel.

I think the key here is that each leg is limited in what it can handle 
capacity-wise. So a typical Group 31 12V flooded would be about 125 amp-hour. 
Two 6V GC2 golf cart in series would be about 230 amp-hour.


From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, March 04, 2016 9:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement

Golf cart 6V batteries should still be okay, as long as they’re connected in 
series pairs to get the voltage up to 12V.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

  On Mar 4, 2016, at 11:50 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List  
wrote:

  I asked ProMariner for some clarification on the battery situation with 2 
house connected in parallel as one bank and a separate start as a second bank. 
I also asked if there was any issue with using smaller than Group 24 batteries 
with the charger. For example, the OP has a Group 22NF. Another poster 
identified they were using a U1 AGM battery for a start (I’m assuming starting 
something small like an Atomic 4  and I’ve heard of that before).

  Answer from ProMariner tech support was that there is no issue with 
connecting the ProSport 20 Plus (3-leg) charger to this battery configuration 
provided you do 1 leg of the charger per battery and that there is no issue 
connecting to any battery that is smaller than the amp-hour size of a typical 
Group 31.

  So there you have it.

  If you want to go golf-cart 6V or 12V batteries larger than Group 31 or if 
you want to mix battery technology (i.e. flooded + gel or standard AGM + gel or 
standard AGM + premium AGM or ) then look to another charger. Otherwise, 
fill your boots.

  Peter Fell
  Sidney, BC
  Cygnet
  C&C 27 MkIII





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Re: Stus-List Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

6v would be fine in series but from what I can tell from the manufacturer's
written and verbal guidance, the charger is limited to a certain maximum
battery size (group 31)... I assume Amp-hr limit.  A group 31 is about 105
AH.  So if you are using two 6v @ 105 AH batteries then it seems you would
be fine.  OTOH, I believe most golf cart batteries are upwards of 200 AH.

Some smart chargers have software that monitors the charge profile.  If the
battery being charged deviates from the prescribed profile then it is
deemed bad.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Mar 4, 2016 12:56 PM, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Golf cart 6V batteries should still be okay, as long as they’re connected
> in series pairs to get the voltage up to 12V.
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Mar 4, 2016, at 11:50 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I asked ProMariner for some clarification on the battery situation with 2
> house connected in parallel as one bank and a separate start as a second
> bank. I also asked if there was any issue with using smaller than Group 24
> batteries with the charger. For example, the OP has a Group 22NF. Another
> poster identified they were using a U1 AGM battery for a start (I’m
> assuming starting something small like an Atomic 4  and I’ve heard of
> that before).
>
> Answer from ProMariner tech support was that there is no issue with
> connecting the ProSport 20 Plus (3-leg) charger to this battery
> configuration provided you do 1 leg of the charger per battery and that
> there is no issue connecting to any battery that is smaller than the
> amp-hour size of a typical Group 31.
>
> So there you have it.
>
> If you want to go golf-cart 6V or 12V batteries larger than Group 31 or if
> you want to mix battery technology (i.e. flooded + gel or standard AGM +
> gel or standard AGM + premium AGM or ) then look to another charger.
> Otherwise, fill your boots.
>
> Peter Fell
> Sidney, BC
> Cygnet
> C&C 27 MkIII
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Welding Aluminum

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

 Looks good to me I have had two aluminum related failures; one was a hatch 
hinge and the other was the boom goose neck; both required fabrication and 
welding; so I ordered one of these kits. Thanks for the head up! 

 


Richard
1985 C&C 37  CB; Ohio River, Mile 596


Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Stu via CnC-List 
To: C&C Email List 
Cc: Stu 
Sent: Fri, Mar 4, 2016 1:23 pm
Subject: Stus-List Welding Aluminum




Watched a demonstration yesterday at a local flea market where they welded 
aluminum using a handheld propane torch.
 
Looked pretty easy and the results were a very strong bond.
 
Kits are available at:
http://www.duluthtrading.com/store/product/alumi-pro-welding-kit-28407.aspx?src=T13WFSHP1&admkt=&mkwid=sqEuVMjNs_dc&pcrid=103058127121&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=CjwKEAiAgeW2BRDDtKaTne77ghgSJACq2U4b9hrqKeRRIQzh6BItV0y5b8Psf_LbsdRAz6dAa6GdThoCdz3w_wcB
 
No affiliation with Duluth.
 
Stu


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Re: Stus-List Welding Aluminum

[BillBinaList via CnC-List]

Years ago, an old timer taught me how to weld aluminum with an 
oxy-acetelyne torch. It was not that easy. You first used a yellow 
acetylene only flame to apply a layer of soot to the aluminum. Then you 
readjusted the flame to normal by adding oxygen. The problem with 
welding or brazing aluminum is that it goes from solid to liquid without 
any color change to warn you. The acetylene soot will burn off at 900 
degrees, and the aluminum melts at around 1100 degrees.


This kit sounds like it would be a lot easier to use, even if the rods 
are not exactly aluminum.


Bill Bina

On 3/4/2016 1:21 PM, Stu via CnC-List wrote:
Watched a demonstration yesterday at a local flea market where they 
welded aluminum using a handheld propane torch.

Looked pretty easy and the results were a very strong bond.
Kits are available at:
http://www.duluthtrading.com/store/product/alumi-pro-welding-kit-28407.aspx?src=T13WFSHP1&admkt=&mkwid=sqEuVMjNs_dc&pcrid=103058127121&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=CjwKEAiAgeW2BRDDtKaTne77ghgSJACq2U4b9hrqKeRRIQzh6BItV0y5b8Psf_LbsdRAz6dAa6GdThoCdz3w_wcB 


No affiliation with Duluth.
Stu



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Re: Stus-List Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

No. It won’t work. It will not charge two batteries in a bank either in series 
or in parallel by spanning across the batteries. It will only work with each 
leg of the charger attached to a single battery. That is very specifically 
identified multiple times in the literature.

6V golf cart batteries are a no-go. Full stop. End of discussion. See my 
previous posts.

If someone at ProMariner or a retailer is giving you other info then they are 
wrong. I admit that ProMariner support is a bit daft ... I’ve had to re-ask 
questions several times to obtain answers to all the questions that I asked.

The Pro-Sports I think are decent chargers at a great price-point with some 
rather unique features, like distributed charging ... but they have their 
limitations.

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, March 04, 2016 10:29 AM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement

6v would be fine in series but from what I can tell from the manufacturer's 
written and verbal guidance, the charger is limited to a certain maximum 
battery size (group 31)... I assume Amp-hr limit.  A group 31 is about 105 AH.  
So if you are using two 6v @ 105 AH batteries then it seems you would be fine.  
OTOH, I believe most golf cart batteries are upwards of 200 AH.

Some smart chargers have software that monitors the charge profile.  If the 
battery being charged deviates from the prescribed profile then it is deemed 
bad.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD 


On Mar 4, 2016 12:56 PM, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

  Golf cart 6V batteries should still be okay, as long as they’re connected in 
series pairs to get the voltage up to 12V.


  Fred Street -- Minneapolis
  S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 4, 2016, at 11:50 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I asked ProMariner for some clarification on the battery situation with 2 
house connected in parallel as one bank and a separate start as a second bank. 
I also asked if there was any issue with using smaller than Group 24 batteries 
with the charger. For example, the OP has a Group 22NF. Another poster 
identified they were using a U1 AGM battery for a start (I’m assuming starting 
something small like an Atomic 4  and I’ve heard of that before).

Answer from ProMariner tech support was that there is no issue with 
connecting the ProSport 20 Plus (3-leg) charger to this battery configuration 
provided you do 1 leg of the charger per battery and that there is no issue 
connecting to any battery that is smaller than the amp-hour size of a typical 
Group 31.

So there you have it.

If you want to go golf-cart 6V or 12V batteries larger than Group 31 or if 
you want to mix battery technology (i.e. flooded + gel or standard AGM + gel or 
standard AGM + premium AGM or ) then look to another charger. Otherwise, 
fill your boots.

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII


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Stus-List Shaft pitting

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I cleaned up the prop shaft. Then took 600 grit sandpaper then 400 grit
sandpaper to it. There is some pitting on the shaft that rides in the
bearing. Attached is a link to my blog that has a pic. Is this an issue? Do
I need to replace the shaft or have these pits filled?
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Stus-List shaft pitting

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Just in case that last image did not load here is a link to imager of my
pitted  shaft.
http://imgur.com/08IPTvx

SV La Neige
Brian Fry
CNC37/40xl
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Re: Stus-List shaft pitting

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

I guess it was inevitable that people would use this list to send around photos 
of their shaft . . . . .

Brian — unless the pits are deep where you think the shaft will bend, I 
wouldn’t worry about this just yet. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 






> On Mar 4, 2016, at 5:20 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Just in case that last image did not load here is a link to imager of my 
> pitted  shaft.
> http://imgur.com/08IPTvx 
> SV La Neige
> Brian Fry
> CNC37/40xl
> 
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> of page at:
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> 

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Re: Stus-List Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Peter — please remember that six-volt and twelve-volt batteries are made from 
1.5-volt cells; the only difference is the number of cells wired in series to 
make up the battery.  Two six-volt batteries wired in series are functionally 
equivalent to a twelve-volt battery.

I can understand if that particular ProMariner charger doesn’t have enough 
current to charge a large battery; but "each leg of the charger attached to a 
single battery” would apply to two six-volt batteries wired in series.  There’s 
no way for the charger to know the difference, and electrically there IS no 
difference.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


> On Mar 4, 2016, at 4:03 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> No. It won’t work. It will not charge two batteries in a bank either in 
> series or in parallel by spanning across the batteries. It will only work 
> with each leg of the charger attached to a single battery. That is very 
> specifically identified multiple times in the literature.
>  
> 6V golf cart batteries are a no-go. Full stop. End of discussion. See my 
> previous posts.
>  
> If someone at ProMariner or a retailer is giving you other info then they are 
> wrong. I admit that ProMariner support is a bit daft ... I’ve had to re-ask 
> questions several times to obtain answers to all the questions that I asked.
>  
> The Pro-Sports I think are decent chargers at a great price-point with some 
> rather unique features, like distributed charging ... but they have their 
> limitations.
>  
> Peter Fell
> Sidney, BC
> Cygnet
> C&C 27 MkIII

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Re: Stus-List {} smaller wheel

[Gary Newton via CnC-List]

If you know anyone looking for a 48" Edson destroyer 8 spoke wheel with a 
straight shaft. I have one for sale. It came off of a C&C 35' mark III. I am in 
Norfolk.

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List {} smaller wheel

[wwadjourn]

Gary Contact me direct please at wwadjour...@gmail.com Re wheel Bill Walker
Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet



-- Original message--From: Gary Newton via CnC-List Date: Fri, Mar 4, 
2016 5:35 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Gary Newton;Subject:Re: Stus-List {} 
smaller wheelMedkrect If you know anyone looking for a 48" Edson destroyer 8 
spoke wheel with a straight shaft. I have one for sale. It came off of a C&C 
35' mark III. I am in Norfolk.Sent from my 
iPad___Email 
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Re: Stus-List Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

Peter:

Fred is correct. I charge two golf cart batteries and one group 24 starting 
battery with a 10 amp Guest 110 volt charger with two charging wires.

Works fine. A smaller charger just means more time to achieve a full charge, 
which is fine with me because I only use it on trips when I want to do an 
overnight charge in a marina. 

Even a trickle charger will eventually bring a large battery bank to full 
charge. My 30 watt solar panel will bring the golf cart batteries to full 
charge over several days of Florida sunshine, depending on discharge.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List  
Date:03/04/2016  5:33 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Frederick G Street  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement 

Peter — please remember that six-volt and twelve-volt batteries are made from 
1.5-volt cells; the only difference is the number of cells wired in series to 
make up the battery.  Two six-volt batteries wired in series are functionally 
equivalent to a twelve-volt battery.

I can understand if that particular ProMariner charger doesn’t have enough 
current to charge a large battery; but "each leg of the charger attached to a 
single battery” would apply to two six-volt batteries wired in series.  There’s 
no way for the charger to know the difference, and electrically there IS no 
difference.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


On Mar 4, 2016, at 4:03 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List  
wrote:

No. It won’t work. It will not charge two batteries in a bank either in series 
or in parallel by spanning across the batteries. It will only work with each 
leg of the charger attached to a single battery. That is very specifically 
identified multiple times in the literature.
 
6V golf cart batteries are a no-go. Full stop. End of discussion. See my 
previous posts.
 
If someone at ProMariner or a retailer is giving you other info then they are 
wrong. I admit that ProMariner support is a bit daft ... I’ve had to re-ask 
questions several times to obtain answers to all the questions that I asked.
 
The Pro-Sports I think are decent chargers at a great price-point with some 
rather unique features, like distributed charging ... but they have their 
limitations.
 
Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII

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Re: Stus-List Windows ad nauseum

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

A propane torch works, relievs many machining defects that act a
stress risers and thus minimizes crack propagation, usually the cracks
don't leak, just look cracked
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Fri, Mar 4, 2016 at 12:55 PM, Alan Liles via CnC-List
 wrote:
> I was advised, by a professional, to use a propane torch to finish the
> edges. It makes sense but I would have to practice a bit on scrap before I
> tried it on the real windows.
>
> Al
> S.V. Elendil
> 37/40+
>
>
> On Mar 4, 2016, at 8:35 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List
>  wrote:
>
> Plexiglass is very prone to developing cracks from any minor imperfections
> or irregularities in the edges. If you carefully polish and buff the edges
> completely smooth, cracks don't have a way to start themselves.
>
> Bill Bina
>
> On 3/4/2016 11:15 AM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Acrylic (Plexiglass) cracks easily, but is harder and more scratch resistant
> than polycarbonate (Lexan). Stock car racers use polycarbonate for
> windshields in their short track race cars. It is the more crack and impact
> resistant of the two plastics, but more likely to cloud if you are too
> aggressive washing it. It is a trade off like everything else, but I would
> lean toward the Lexan in that application. Both of my boats have long
> Plexiglass side windows, and both have one side that is cracked vertically
> more or less in the middle.
>
> Steve Thomas
>
>  Fred Hazzard via CnC-List  wrote:
> The 2 windows I replaced about 7 years ago with Sikka Flex and their primer
> have developed a lot of cracks along the top edge.  These cracks are
> leaking. I cannot recall if I used polycarbonate or cast acrylic.  Of the 2
> choices which would be the better for replacement?  They are relatively
> long windows that are held in only by the Sikka Flex.   This time  I plan
> to use 3 M tape.
>
> Fred Hazzard
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

around here covered and secured in leak proof battery boxes is what
surveyors require

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Sat, Feb 27, 2016 at 3:39 PM, Doug Welch via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> absolutely agree about keeping batteries covered. a friend of mine dropped
> a wrench that shorted out the terminals. it very quickly glowed red, welded
> itself to the terminals and caught fire. only quick work with a fire
> extinguisher save the boat.
>
>
> On Saturday, February 27, 2016 2:08 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> Our 33 MkII has 2 group 27 deep cycle batteries that are 10 and 12 yrs
> old, still starting and looking after the refrigerator, stereo, radio and
> nav lights on "extended" day sails. We're always plugged in when at dock.
> We select one battery for starting and the other for running accessories,
> and alternate each sail day.
> Batteries need to be covered! Beyond that I can't help you much.
> Brad
> Pulse C&C 33 MkII
> Lake Huron
>
> I'd rather be sailing
>
>
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>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement

[Doug Welch via CnC-List]

your post aligns with my understanding with a slight correction. The individual 
cells are ~2 volts in series (6 X 2 volts = 12 volts) . On some of the older 
surette batteries you could actually change out individual cells.  I am still 
trying to figure out why promariner insists on only connecting the to a single 
battery. In theory, it is transparent to the charger whether it is two 
batteries in parallel or or a single battery of twice the size (capacity). The 
only think that makes sense to me is that the charger cannot sustain the bulk 
charge rate long enough to charge 2 full depleted group 27s. 
Cheers,Doug 

On Friday, March 4, 2016 5:35 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Peter — please remember that six-volt and twelve-volt batteries are made from 
1.5-volt cells; the only difference is the number of cells wired in series to 
make up the battery.  Two six-volt batteries wired in series are functionally 
equivalent to a twelve-volt battery.
I can understand if that particular ProMariner charger doesn’t have enough 
current to charge a large battery; but "each leg of the charger attached to a 
single battery” would apply to two six-volt batteries wired in series.  There’s 
no way for the charger to know the difference, and electrically there IS no 
difference.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


On Mar 4, 2016, at 4:03 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List  
wrote:
No. It won’t work. It will not charge two batteries in a bank either in series 
or in parallel by spanning across the batteries. It will only work with each 
leg of the charger attached to a single battery. That is very specifically 
identified multiple times in the literature. 6V golf cart batteries are a 
no-go. Full stop. End of discussion. See my previous posts. If someone at 
ProMariner or a retailer is giving you other info then they are wrong. I admit 
that ProMariner support is a bit daft ... I’ve had to re-ask questions several 
times to obtain answers to all the questions that I asked. The Pro-Sports I 
think are decent chargers at a great price-point with some rather unique 
features, like distributed charging ... but they have their limitations. Peter 
Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII


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Re: Stus-List Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Easy Peter, my response must have gotten stuck in the outbox.  I actually
wrote it prior to both your responses.  I was not trying to contradict
you.  In fact I think you and I are kinda saying similar things.  First, to
Fred's point, two six volts in series will appear to any other system as a
single 12v battery.  It doesn't matter if the "system" is a current source
or a current load.  Second, to your point (AND what I stated earlier) golf
cart batteries are significantly higher capacity in Amp-Hrs than a group
31.  So, what I am saying (and I think Fred would agree) is that building a
bank of batteries that equals 12v and does not exceed the AH of a group 31
(~125 AH), would charge just fine with the battery charger in question.

My hypothesis as to why you "can't" do anything larger than a single group
31 per channel is that a larger battery (2 6v golf carts in series, OR 2
12v in parallel) would be higher capacity (Amp-Hrs).  The duration of time
which would be required to achieve each state of charge would be
significantly longer since the max charge current would be the limiting
factor.  The charger MAY use the measure of time (or the cumulative amps
charged) to determine a bad battery.  I can't see any other reason how the
charger would ever be able to tell a difference.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Mar 4, 2016 5:06 PM, "Peter Fell via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> No. It won’t work. It will not charge two batteries in a bank either in
> series or in parallel by spanning across the batteries. It will only work
> with each leg of the charger attached to a single battery. That is very
> specifically identified multiple times in the literature.
>
> 6V golf cart batteries are a no-go. Full stop. End of discussion. See my
> previous posts.
>
> If someone at ProMariner or a retailer is giving you other info then they
> are wrong. I admit that ProMariner support is a bit daft ... I’ve had to
> re-ask questions several times to obtain answers to all the questions that
> I asked.
>
> The Pro-Sports I think are decent chargers at a great price-point with
> some rather unique features, like distributed charging ... but they have
> their limitations.
>
> Peter Fell
> Sidney, BC
> Cygnet
> C&C 27 MkIII
>
> *From:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Friday, March 04, 2016 10:29 AM
> *To:* C&C List 
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement
>
>
> 6v would be fine in series but from what I can tell from the
> manufacturer's written and verbal guidance, the charger is limited to a
> certain maximum battery size (group 31)... I assume Amp-hr limit.  A group
> 31 is about 105 AH.  So if you are using two 6v @ 105 AH batteries then it
> seems you would be fine.  OTOH, I believe most golf cart batteries are
> upwards of 200 AH.
>
> Some smart chargers have software that monitors the charge profile.  If
> the battery being charged deviates from the prescribed profile then it is
> deemed bad.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Mar 4, 2016 12:56 PM, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Golf cart 6V batteries should still be okay, as long as they’re connected
>> in series pairs to get the voltage up to 12V.
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>>
>>
>> On Mar 4, 2016, at 11:50 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I asked ProMariner for some clarification on the battery situation with 2
>> house connected in parallel as one bank and a separate start as a second
>> bank. I also asked if there was any issue with using smaller than Group 24
>> batteries with the charger. For example, the OP has a Group 22NF. Another
>> poster identified they were using a U1 AGM battery for a start (I’m
>> assuming starting something small like an Atomic 4  and I’ve heard of
>> that before).
>>
>> Answer from ProMariner tech support was that there is no issue with
>> connecting the ProSport 20 Plus (3-leg) charger to this battery
>> configuration provided you do 1 leg of the charger per battery and that
>> there is no issue connecting to any battery that is smaller than the
>> amp-hour size of a typical Group 31.
>>
>> So there you have it.
>>
>> If you want to go golf-cart 6V or 12V batteries larger than Group 31 or
>> if you want to mix battery technology (i.e. flooded + gel or standard AGM +
>> gel or standard AGM + premium AGM or ) then look to another charger.
>> Otherwise, fill your boots.
>>
>> Peter Fell
>> Sidney, BC
>> Cygnet
>> C&C 27 MkIII
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>> --
> ___

Re: Stus-List Welding Aluminum

[Jon Pratt via CnC-List]

I tried that stuff on a motorcycle casting. No luck. I tried heating with
Map gas and still no luck. Took it to a pro. Piece of cake for him.
jp


On Fri, Mar 4, 2016 at 1:21 PM, Stu via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Watched a demonstration yesterday at a local flea market where they welded
> aluminum using a handheld propane torch.
>
> Looked pretty easy and the results were a very strong bond.
>
> Kits are available at:
>
> http://www.duluthtrading.com/store/product/alumi-pro-welding-kit-28407.aspx?src=T13WFSHP1&admkt=&mkwid=sqEuVMjNs_dc&pcrid=103058127121&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=CjwKEAiAgeW2BRDDtKaTne77ghgSJACq2U4b9hrqKeRRIQzh6BItV0y5b8Psf_LbsdRAz6dAa6GdThoCdz3w_wcB
> 
>
> No affiliation with Duluth.
>
> Stu
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Stus-List 48" Edson Destroyer 8 spoke wheel for sale

[Gary Newton via CnC-List]

This wheel comes off of a 1987 35' mark III.

Sent from my iPad

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Re: Stus-List Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

You’re absolutely right — I stand corrected.  Although it’s a little higher, 
around 2.1V, going a fully-charged 12-volt battery at rest a voltage of 12.6V.  
My brain was thinking dry cells…   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Mar 4, 2016, at 5:38 PM, doug.we...@rogers.com wrote:
> 
> your post aligns with my understanding with a slight correction. The 
> individual cells are ~2 volts in series (6 X 2 volts = 12 volts) .

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Re: Stus-List Hamton Roads Racing Weeks

[Allen Miles via CnC-List]

Never raced Septima since we re-positioned her to Hampton.  She's really a 
cruiser racer, but well equipped for club racing.

I just received preliminary notice of the upcoming Southern Bay Race Week and 
Norfolk
Harborfest Challenge. What's involved in racing in cruising class and what sort 
of boats would we be facing?  What are the winds and tides like in these 
venues? She has a wing keel so her PRHF is somewhere in the 140s. Can we be 
competitive?

I'd have to assemble a crew.  Oh, and reread the rules.

Allen Miles
s/v Septima C&C 30-2
Hampton, VA
 

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Re: Stus-List Shaft pitting

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Brian,

This pitting is not unusual for stainless steel that has spent time 
in a low oxygen environment. The water in there is stagnate, oxygen 
depletes, a galvanic cell develops and viola. The process is the 
pits, so to speak.


The remedy is pretty much as you did, clean up the shaft best as 
possible. To my eye that amount of pitting is not going to affect reliability.


To avoid future pitting don't leave the shaft in one position during 
long periods of immersion. Run the engine a little while in gear or 
at least turn the shaft by hand a bit during your regular checks when 
you're not using the boat.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 02:15 PM 04/03/2016, you wrote:

I cleaned up the prop shaft. Then took 600 grit sandpaper then 400 
grit sandpaper to it. There is some pitting on the shaft that rides 
in the bearing. Attached is a link to my blog that has a pic. Is 
this an issue? Do I need to replace the shaft or have these pits filled?

Content-Type: image/jpeg; name=".facebook_1457129540635.jpg"
Content-Disposition: attachment; filename=".facebook_1457129540635.jpg"
X-Attachment-Id: 1527911260592537600-local0

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Re: Stus-List Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

The answer to how the charger evaluates a bad battery was actually included in 
a quote from the Pro Mariner manual contained in an earlier post.

 

The software in the charger measures the internal resistance of the battery to 
check for a bad battery and reverse polarity. Too large a battery (too many AH) 
will show high internal resistance. A pair of batteries in parallel will still 
show 12v, but the internal resistance will appear to be lower than expected and 
might be interpreted as a shorted cell.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 04, 2016 6:51 PM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement

 

Easy Peter, my response must have gotten stuck in the outbox.  I actually wrote 
it prior to both your responses.  I was not trying to contradict you.  In fact 
I think you and I are kinda saying similar things.  First, to Fred's point, two 
six volts in series will appear to any other system as a single 12v battery.  
It doesn't matter if the "system" is a current source or a current load.  
Second, to your point (AND what I stated earlier) golf cart batteries are 
significantly higher capacity in Amp-Hrs than a group 31.  So, what I am saying 
(and I think Fred would agree) is that building a bank of batteries that equals 
12v and does not exceed the AH of a group 31 (~125 AH), would charge just fine 
with the battery charger in question.

My hypothesis as to why you "can't" do anything larger than a single group 31 
per channel is that a larger battery (2 6v golf carts in series, OR 2 12v in 
parallel) would be higher capacity (Amp-Hrs).  The duration of time which would 
be required to achieve each state of charge would be significantly longer since 
the max charge current would be the limiting factor.  The charger MAY use the 
measure of time (or the cumulative amps charged) to determine a bad battery.  I 
can't see any other reason how the charger would ever be able to tell a 
difference.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mar 4, 2016 5:06 PM, "Peter Fell via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

No. It won’t work. It will not charge two batteries in a bank either in series 
or in parallel by spanning across the batteries. It will only work with each 
leg of the charger attached to a single battery. That is very specifically 
identified multiple times in the literature.

 

6V golf cart batteries are a no-go. Full stop. End of discussion. See my 
previous posts.

 

If someone at ProMariner or a retailer is giving you other info then they are 
wrong. I admit that ProMariner support is a bit daft ... I’ve had to re-ask 
questions several times to obtain answers to all the questions that I asked.

 

The Pro-Sports I think are decent chargers at a great price-point with some 
rather unique features, like distributed charging ... but they have their 
limitations.

 

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII

 

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List   

Sent: Friday, March 04, 2016 10:29 AM

To: C  &C List 

Cc: Josh Muckley   

Subject: Re: Stus-List Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement

 

6v would be fine in series but from what I can tell from the manufacturer's 
written and verbal guidance, the charger is limited to a certain maximum 
battery size (group 31)... I assume Amp-hr limit.  A group 31 is about 105 AH.  
So if you are using two 6v @ 105 AH batteries then it seems you would be fine.  
OTOH, I believe most golf cart batteries are upwards of 200 AH.

Some smart chargers have software that monitors the charge profile.  If the 
battery being charged deviates from the prescribed profile then it is deemed 
bad.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD 

On Mar 4, 2016 12:56 PM, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Golf cart 6V batteries should still be okay, as long as they’re connected in 
series pairs to get the voltage up to 12V.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On Mar 4, 2016, at 11:50 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

I asked ProMariner for some clarification on the battery situation with 2 house 
connected in parallel as one bank and a separate start as a second bank. I also 
asked if there was any issue with using smaller than Group 24 batteries with 
the charger. For example, the OP has a Group 22NF. Another poster identified 
they were using a U1 AGM battery for a start (I’m assuming starting something 
small like an Atomic 4  and I’ve heard of that before).

 

Answer from ProMariner tech support was that there is no issue with connecting 
the ProSport 20 Plus (3-leg) charger to this battery configuration provided you 
do 1 leg of t