A propane torch works, relievs many machining defects that act a
stress risers and thus minimizes crack propagation, usually the cracks
don't leak, just look cracked
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Fri, Mar 4, 2016 at 12:55 PM, Alan Liles via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I was advised, by a professional, to use a propane torch to finish the
> edges. It makes sense but I would have to practice a bit on scrap before I
> tried it on the real windows.
>
> Al
> S.V. Elendil
> 37/40+
>
>
> On Mar 4, 2016, at 8:35 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Plexiglass is very prone to developing cracks from any minor imperfections
> or irregularities in the edges. If you carefully polish and buff the edges
> completely smooth, cracks don't have a way to start themselves.
>
> Bill Bina
>
> On 3/4/2016 11:15 AM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Acrylic (Plexiglass) cracks easily, but is harder and more scratch resistant
> than polycarbonate (Lexan). Stock car racers use polycarbonate for
> windshields in their short track race cars. It is the more crack and impact
> resistant of the two plastics, but more likely to cloud if you are too
> aggressive washing it. It is a trade off like everything else, but I would
> lean toward the Lexan in that application. Both of my boats have long
> Plexiglass side windows, and both have one side that is cracked vertically
> more or less in the middle.
>
> Steve Thomas
>
> ---- Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> The 2 windows I replaced about 7 years ago with Sikka Flex and their primer
> have developed a lot of cracks along the top edge.  These cracks are
> leaking. I cannot recall if I used polycarbonate or cast acrylic.  Of the 2
> choices which would be the better for replacement?  They are relatively
> long windows that are held in only by the Sikka Flex.   This time  I plan
> to use 3 M tape.
>
> Fred Hazzard
>
>
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