Re: Stus-List Shift / throttle cables

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Take your cables to the local NAPA or other auto parts store. They will match 
the length and the cable ends to the proper Teledyne – Morse cables for your 
installation. They are pretty inexpensive, I think I paid about $40-45 for the 
replacement cables for my 38 (one of which was the old fat cable with an 
extended length that was used on the Paragon transmission for the OEM A4 engine 
that had been replaced back in 2000).

 

The little J shaped clamp that compressed the cable sheath is still the best 
way to overcome the throttle return spring.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John and 
Maryann Read via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2015 9:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John and Maryann Read 
Subject: Stus-List Shift / throttle cables

 

Have removed the shift and throttle cables as they were stiff and had excessive 
resistance.  Not surprising as they are OEM and 33 years old.  Any thoughts on 
suitable replacement and where to purchase??

 

On a related note, our Yanmar 3GM throttle has a built in internal spring that 
applies increasing resistance as the throttle is opened more.  The OEM fix was 
to put an adjustable crimp in the cable but that seems less than ideal.  Any 
thoughts as to how to offset the internal spring??

 

Many thanks for your thoughts

 

John & Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

  _  


  

This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. 
www.avast.com   

 

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Stus-List Removal of Datamarine depth transponder

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I need to remove my Datamarine transponder to send it to DMI for repair.  Does 
anyone know how it is held in place in the through hull. I can't see any 
retaining pins etc - yet it has a "t" like handle which implies it should be 
removable with ease. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Josh,
 I have been thinking the same thing.  So far (only removed one window)
the damage has been contained under the glazing.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
1990 C&C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Sun, Nov 8, 2015 at 10:53 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm not convinced that repairing the gel-coat is critical unless the
> damage extends beyond that which is hidden by the window and glazing.  I'd
> just use silica filled epoxy.  Scrub it well to remove the amine blush and
> then maybe give it a little tooth by sanding it dull.  The typical 80 grit
> might be a little much but just remove the shine.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Nov 8, 2015 9:48 PM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> Yup, you will!  The question is, what is the best way to repair the
>> gelcoat.  I have glass mat showing in places.  Do I apply epoxy or
>> polyester resin to the glass mat before filling in the damaged area?  What
>> do I fill it with?  Should I use MarineTex or silica filled resin?  help!!!
>>
>> Gary
>> S/V High Maintenance
>> 1990 C&C 37 Plus
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Nov 8, 2015 at 9:18 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> For those that have done the job, how did you manage the removal of the
>>> old windows? I imagine I'de destroy any gelcoat down there if I gave this a
>>> try.
>>>
>>> Steve
>>> Suhana, C&C 32
>>> Toronto
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, Nov 8, 2015 at 4:45 PM, robert via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 I wish I had known about VHB tape a few years back when I replaced the
 windowsit sure would have made the job a lot easier than the Sika 295
 UV .if I ever have to do the job again, which I hope will never happen,
 I will use this tape method.

 Thanks Gary for pointing this out and the video.

 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 C&C 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.

 On 2015-11-07 8:37 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:

 There is a great BoatWorks video on Youtube describing the VHB tape
 method.  See link below:

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8

 Gary
 S/V High Maintenance
 1999 C&C 37 Plus
 East Greenwich, RI, USA



 ~~~_/)~~


 On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 9:51 AM, robert < 
 robertabb...@eastlink.ca> wrote:

> Gary:
>
> I sent you the process I used 'off list'.
>
> The 2 forward windows on my boat are also curved.not exactly sure
> how much but it is noticeable.you can get a better idea when you take
> the old windows out and lay them on a flat surface.   I used Sika 295 UV
> with the Sika primer and I also wondered if this adhesive would hold the
> curved window(s) in place.  It's been 6 seasons and no problems.
>
> Before installing the new windows, I wondered how I was going to
> 'brace them' while the Sika cured.  I explained all of that in my 'off
> list' email to you.  Any further questions, don't hesitate to ask.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
> On 2015-10-21 11:07 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Fred,
>  The VHB tape with DOW Corning 795 Silicone Sealant is starting to
> look like and attractive method.  I am replacing the windows over the
> winter, also.  We should keep in touch.  Do I assume you would use the 
> gray
> VHB tape with the gray silicone sealant?  I am wondering if the VHB tape
> will be a problem with peel.  My cabin sides are curved, so the windows
> will have to be bent slightly to conform to the side of the cabin.  I
> wonder if that will be a problem with the 3/8" thick acrylic trying to
>  return to a flat shape?
>
> Gary
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 2:03 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Gary — I’m going to be replacing the fixed windows on my LF38 over
>> the winter.  I’ve done the Plexus thing twice now (previous boat); this
>> time, I’m going to try the VHB tape with Dow 795 approach, like Paul did 
>> on
>> Johanna Rose:
>> 
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts.
>>
>> I’ll be using 3/8” bronze acrylic with a chamfer to the outside edge.
>>
>> — Fred
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield,
>> WI   :^(
>>
>> On Oct 21, 2015, at 12:45 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Paul,
>>  I agree that 1/4" is too thin.  The other 37+ at my club has
>> 5/16"  It amazes me that people with no marine design experience would

Re: Stus-List Removal of Datamarine depth transponder

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

ALL of the datamarine transducers that I've had or seen have a pin and ring
which secure the transducer.  The T-handle on mine are used to secure the
transducer thru-hull housing in the hull.  Don't touch until you are really
sure AND on the hard.

Maybe some pictures would help us see what you're dealing with.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Nov 9, 2015 6:33 AM, "Indigo via CnC-List"  wrote:

> I need to remove my Datamarine transponder to send it to DMI for repair.
> Does anyone know how it is held in place in the through hull. I can't see
> any retaining pins etc - yet it has a "t" like handle which implies it
> should be removable with ease.
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C&C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
> ___
>
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Stus-List Soda Blasting

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Rick

Do you still know who does Soda blasting in this area?

Thanks

Mike

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick 
Taillieu via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 07, 2015 7:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Taillieu
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel attachment issues on a C&C 25

Ahmet,

Mine does have a sump towards the aft end of where the keel bolts are, that’s 
where I have the intake for the bilge pump routed.
Not so funny story:
C&C had good days and bad days when they were laying up the hulls. I bought my 
boat in the summer of ’99, in the spring of 2000 I had the bottom soda blasted.
While cleaning up the bottom before putting in the Interprotect, I was opening 
up some small imperfections with a dremel tool.
I hit one small mark at the aft end of the keel sump and all of a sudden the 
antifreeze that I  had put in the bulge for the winter, started flowing out.
One it stopped I had a good look from outside and inside the bilge. It looked 
like there was a large air bubble in the layup of the hull and the only thing 
that was keeping the boat afloat for the 25 years before I bought the boat was 
the layer of gelcoat. Needless to say that area was filled with epoxy and cut 
up fibreglass mat until I was satisfied that it was full and well sealed.
It is important to torque your keel bolts from time to time (mine are due now), 
when I torqued them for the first time I got at least one full turn on all of 
the nuts, some were more.
I moved my stanchions to the toerail too, much more room to pass through there 
and it’s easier to sheet the genoa inboard as well.
The 25 is a great boat to sail, you can single-hand it really easily and if you 
want to race it will sail to its rating.
If you have any questions on setting up the boat just give me a shout, I’m 
happy to help.

Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

Stevan, mine just popped out with a firm rap from my hand. Had to fix up a few 
small patches of gelcoat but nothing major.

Mike Amirault
C&C33 MKii SMSC___

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

Gelcoat is just pigmented polyester AFAIK, so I would go with polyester if it 
isn't going to show anyway. (note, some gelcoats may be based on epoxy) Styrene 
applied before the polyester may help to make a better bond.___

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Ditto. Not even very firm rap of hand was needed...

Nate
"Sarah Jean"
1980 30-1

and T31

On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 8:21 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Stevan, mine just popped out with a firm rap from my hand. Had to fix up a
> few small patches of gelcoat but nothing major.
>
> Mike Amirault
> C&C33 MKii SMSC
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I like the VHB tape method but wasn't there some discussion in previous
posts about the structural properties of the various sealants?

Is this or should this be a concern?

VHB is a product line with various thicknesses and bond strengths so it is
important to make sure you know what you're getting.  3M makes industrial
products in the VHB line so it might be worth adding individual to the
search.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Nov 7, 2015 7:38 AM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> There is a great BoatWorks video on Youtube describing the VHB tape
> method.  See link below:
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8
>
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> 1999 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
>
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 9:51 AM, robert  wrote:
>
>> Gary:
>>
>> I sent you the process I used 'off list'.
>>
>> The 2 forward windows on my boat are also curved.not exactly sure how
>> much but it is noticeable.you can get a better idea when you take the
>> old windows out and lay them on a flat surface.   I used Sika 295 UV with
>> the Sika primer and I also wondered if this adhesive would hold the curved
>> window(s) in place.  It's been 6 seasons and no problems.
>>
>> Before installing the new windows, I wondered how I was going to 'brace
>> them' while the Sika cured.  I explained all of that in my 'off list' email
>> to you.  Any further questions, don't hesitate to ask.
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>>
>>
>> On 2015-10-21 11:07 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Fred,
>>  The VHB tape with DOW Corning 795 Silicone Sealant is starting to
>> look like and attractive method.  I am replacing the windows over the
>> winter, also.  We should keep in touch.  Do I assume you would use the gray
>> VHB tape with the gray silicone sealant?  I am wondering if the VHB tape
>> will be a problem with peel.  My cabin sides are curved, so the windows
>> will have to be bent slightly to conform to the side of the cabin.  I
>> wonder if that will be a problem with the 3/8" thick acrylic trying to
>>  return to a flat shape?
>>
>> Gary
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 2:03 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Gary — I’m going to be replacing the fixed windows on my LF38 over the
>>> winter.  I’ve done the Plexus thing twice now (previous boat); this time,
>>> I’m going to try the VHB tape with Dow 795 approach, like Paul did on
>>> Johanna Rose: http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts.
>>>
>>> I’ll be using 3/8” bronze acrylic with a chamfer to the outside edge.
>>>
>>> — Fred
>>>
>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>>>
>>> On Oct 21, 2015, at 12:45 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Paul,
>>>  I agree that 1/4" is too thin.  The other 37+ at my club has 5/16"
>>>  It amazes me that people with no marine design experience would change the
>>> design.  I plan to go with 3/8" acrylic.  But then again...
>>>
>>> The problem with Lexan (which is a polycarbonate) is that it is less
>>> scratch resistant than Plexiglas (acrylic).  You are probably trading one
>>> problem for another.
>>>
>>>  As for Plexus vs Silka 295, I am really torn.  The write-up in the
>>> Photo Album suggest that Plexus will be flexible enough if (big if) the
>>> bond thickness is large enough.  To that end he added glass beads to the
>>> adhesive to make sure the bond thickness didn't get thinner than 0.030".
>>>
>>>  Thoughts, anyone?
>>>
>>> Gary
>>> S/V High Maintenance
>>> '90 C&C 37 Plus
>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
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>> of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I used epoxy filled 50-50 with colloidal silica & 3M glass bubbles. Without 
the 3M bubbles, sanding the thickened silica epoxy mix is like sanding a rock.


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/




> On Nov 9, 2015, at 6:48 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2015 18:53:53 -0900
> From: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
> To: "C&C List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I'm not convinced that repairing the gel-coat is critical unless the damage
> extends beyond that which is hidden by the window and glazing.  I'd just
> use silica filled epoxy.  Scrub it well to remove the amine blush and then
> maybe give it a little tooth by sanding it dull.  The typical 80 grit might
> be a little much but just remove the shine.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Nov 8, 2015 9:48 PM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List"  >

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Gary W. Russell via CnC-List]

Wow!  You guys are lucky!  My Windows came out in pieces with significant gel 
coat damage.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
1990 C&C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA

Sent from my iPhone. ~~~_/)~~~

> On Nov 9, 2015, at 9:26 AM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Ditto. Not even very firm rap of hand was needed...
> 
> Nate
> "Sarah Jean"
> 1980 30-1
> 
> and T31 
> 
>> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 8:21 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Stevan, mine just popped out with a firm rap from my hand. Had to fix up a 
>> few small patches of gelcoat but nothing major.
>>  
>> Mike Amirault
>> C&C33 MKii SMSC
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

"Wow!  You guys are lucky!  My Windows came out in pieces with significant gel 
coat damage."Well, Gary, you are "High Maintenance" ;)Mike AmiraultLovely 
Cruise C&C33MKiiSMSC___

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Not quite the same thing but lately I've been removing ports that were held
in with sealant by using a vibrating saw with a caulk cutting blade.  Like
these:

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-OSC214C-4-Inch-Caulk-Knife/dp/B004UBF43S

http://multifitblades.com/straight-sealant-cutter.html

Not sure how they would work on Plexus or Sika adhesives.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 9:30 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> "Wow!  You guys are lucky!  My Windows came out in pieces with significant 
> gel coat damage."
>
> Well, Gary, you are "High Maintenance" ;)
>
> Mike Amirault
>
> Lovely Cruise C&C33MKii
>
> SMSC
>
>
> ___
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,
 I'm quite sure those blades would work well for soft calk like
silicones or urethanes, but Plexus is hard as a rock and I don't think they
would work.  In addition, the big problem is getting at the bottom window
joint that is very close to the turn on the deck.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance (formerly Expresso)
1990 C&C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA


~~~_/)~~


On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 11:25 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Not quite the same thing but lately I've been removing ports that were
> held in with sealant by using a vibrating saw with a caulk cutting blade.
> Like these:
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-OSC214C-4-Inch-Caulk-Knife/dp/B004UBF43S
>
> http://multifitblades.com/straight-sealant-cutter.html
>
> Not sure how they would work on Plexus or Sika adhesives.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 9:30 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> "Wow!  You guys are lucky!  My Windows came out in pieces with significant 
>> gel coat damage."
>>
>> Well, Gary, you are "High Maintenance" ;)
>>
>> Mike Amirault
>>
>> Lovely Cruise C&C33MKii
>>
>> SMSC
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Was afraid of that.  The only ports close to the new C&C ports I've done
were on a Beneteau.  Don't remember how hard the adhesive was.

Dennis C.

On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 10:45 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Dennis,
>  I'm quite sure those blades would work well for soft calk like
> silicones or urethanes, but Plexus is hard as a rock and I don't think they
> would work.  In addition, the big problem is getting at the bottom window
> joint that is very close to the turn on the deck.
>
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance (formerly Expresso)
> 1990 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 11:25 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Not quite the same thing but lately I've been removing ports that were
>> held in with sealant by using a vibrating saw with a caulk cutting blade.
>> Like these:
>>
>> http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-OSC214C-4-Inch-Caulk-Knife/dp/B004UBF43S
>>
>> http://multifitblades.com/straight-sealant-cutter.html
>>
>> Not sure how they would work on Plexus or Sika adhesives.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 9:30 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> "Wow!  You guys are lucky!  My Windows came out in pieces with significant 
>>> gel coat damage."
>>>
>>> Well, Gary, you are "High Maintenance" ;)
>>>
>>> Mike Amirault
>>>
>>> Lovely Cruise C&C33MKii
>>>
>>> SMSC
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
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>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
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Stus-List C&C 25 headsail size

[Ahmet via CnC-List]

Next year I will race Tabasco a bit. I have 2 headsails, one seems to be a
105, the other a 130.
I like the 105, because it is easy to tack, and strong enough to have an
enjoyable sail if I am lazy and it is blowing over 10.
The sail in Sailboatdata looks like a pretty big sail, like a 150.

What is the largest reasonable headsail you guys on the 25 use, without
having to deal with excessive tenderness ?
Thank You
Ahmet
S/V Tabasco
1973 C&C 25Boston, MA
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Stus-List personal contact

[Ron via CnC-List]

Nate
Could you email me at rbfrer...@yahoo.com

Thanks
Ron
C&c 30-1
STL


Nate Flesness via CnC-List  wrote:

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Re: Stus-List Removal of Datamarine depth transponder

[Ahmet via CnC-List]

The transducers I removed were twist and pull type. They usually have to
o-rings on them. You should have a dummy plug to put in there ASAP
(i.e.within seconds) if you are in the water.
They are designed to be removed while in the water, but is is a very
"exciting" process.
On some boats there is a simple flapper valve that closes then you pull out
the transducer, so you don't get a 3 ft geyser coming into the boat.
If you do that in the water, besides the dummy plug, have a plastic bags,
duct tape and wooden plugs within reach, just in case .
I have not done it on Tabasco, I may try it next year so I can use my
speedo. It is one of the things I don't like to do.
I usueally use some light vaseline on the o rings (both the transducer and
the dummy plug) before I put it back in.

I would not attempt it without a dummy plug. Wooden carrots may slow things
down but are just an emergency measure.

Ahmet
S/V Tabasco 1973 C&C 25
Boston, MA

On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 7:04 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> ALL of the datamarine transducers that I've had or seen have a pin and
> ring which secure the transducer.  The T-handle on mine are used to secure
> the transducer thru-hull housing in the hull.  Don't touch until you are
> really sure AND on the hard.
>
> Maybe some pictures would help us see what you're dealing with.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Nov 9, 2015 6:33 AM, "Indigo via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> I need to remove my Datamarine transponder to send it to DMI for repair.
>> Does anyone know how it is held in place in the through hull. I can't see
>> any retaining pins etc - yet it has a "t" like handle which implies it
>> should be removable with ease.
>>
>> --
>> Jonathan
>> Indigo C&C 35III
>> SOUTHPORT CT
>> ___
>>
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>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>>
>>
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>
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C&C 25 headsail size

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Ahmet

The 25 that we raced against extensively bought a new 150 from North around 
2002 and removed the 170 from its inventory.  They also purchased a 130 and had 
a 110 or so and a new main.  They almost always raced with the 150.  When it 
became too windy for 150 they went to their 110.

That boat won more than half the races it entered over the next two seasons

Mike


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ahmet via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2015 1:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ahmet
Subject: Stus-List C&C 25 headsail size

Next year I will race Tabasco a bit. I have 2 headsails, one seems to be a 105, 
the other a 130.
I like the 105, because it is easy to tack, and strong enough to have an 
enjoyable sail if I am lazy and it is blowing over 10.
The sail in Sailboatdata looks like a pretty big sail, like a 150.

What is the largest reasonable headsail you guys on the 25 use, without having 
to deal with excessive tenderness ?
Thank You
Ahmet
S/V Tabasco
1973 C&C 25Boston, MA

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Re: Stus-List C&C 25 headsail size

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

I had a 150 and a 110 on my old C&C 25, and that was a nice selection. I also 
bought an old 170 drifter on the web that was absolutely beautiful in very 
light air.

The 25 heels to about 25 or 30 degrees and then locks in solid, so it’s not 
necessarily time to reef when you hit that point. That’s really when you start 
going like hell, as I remember.

To carry a lot of sail on the 25, you really have to learn to trim the sails 
well. A poorly trimmed main will give you a lot of weather helm and cause a 
wrestling match with the tiller.

Like others have said, it’s a great 25-footer. Mine was wrecked in Hurricane 
Wilma in South Florida. It was knocked off its mooring and apparently sailed 
all over Biscayne Bay in gusts up to 120 mph before grounding on Key Biscayne 
and losing its mast and keel.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2015 1:04 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 headsail size

Ahmet



The 25 that we raced against extensively bought a new 150 from North around 
2002 and removed the 170 from its inventory.  They also purchased a 130 and had 
a 110 or so and a new main.  They almost always raced with the 150.  When it 
became too windy for 150 they went to their 110.



That boat won more than half the races it entered over the next two seasons



Mike





From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ahmet via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2015 1:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ahmet
Subject: Stus-List C&C 25 headsail size



Next year I will race Tabasco a bit. I have 2 headsails, one seems to be a 105, 
the other a 130.

I like the 105, because it is easy to tack, and strong enough to have an 
enjoyable sail if I am lazy and it is blowing over 10.

The sail in Sailboatdata looks like a pretty big sail, like a 150.



What is the largest reasonable headsail you guys on the 25 use, without having 
to deal with excessive tenderness ?

Thank You

Ahmet

S/V Tabasco

1973 C&C 25Boston, MA






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---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
http://www.avast.com
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Re: Stus-List Soda Blasting

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Mike,

 

I had mine done in Ontario, I don’t know who does it out here.

Maybe call around to some mobile sand blasting companies and see if they do 
soda or dry ice blasting.

>From what I’ve heard, dry ice blasting leaves a lot less mess to clean up.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C&C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: November-09-15 09:24
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Stus-List Soda Blasting

 

Rick

 

Do you still know who does Soda blasting in this area?

 

Thanks

 

Mike

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick 
Taillieu via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 07, 2015 7:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Taillieu
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel attachment issues on a C&C 25

 

Ahmet,

 

Mine does have a sump towards the aft end of where the keel bolts are, that’s 
where I have the intake for the bilge pump routed.

Not so funny story: 

C&C had good days and bad days when they were laying up the hulls. I bought my 
boat in the summer of ’99, in the spring of 2000 I had the bottom soda blasted.

While cleaning up the bottom before putting in the Interprotect, I was opening 
up some small imperfections with a dremel tool.

I hit one small mark at the aft end of the keel sump and all of a sudden the 
antifreeze that I  had put in the bulge for the winter, started flowing out.

One it stopped I had a good look from outside and inside the bilge. It looked 
like there was a large air bubble in the layup of the hull and the only thing 
that was keeping the boat afloat for the 25 years before I bought the boat was 
the layer of gelcoat. Needless to say that area was filled with epoxy and cut 
up fibreglass mat until I was satisfied that it was full and well sealed.

It is important to torque your keel bolts from time to time (mine are due now), 
when I torqued them for the first time I got at least one full turn on all of 
the nuts, some were more.

I moved my stanchions to the toerail too, much more room to pass through there 
and it’s easier to sheet the genoa inboard as well.

The 25 is a great boat to sail, you can single-hand it really easily and if you 
want to race it will sail to its rating.

If you have any questions on setting up the boat just give me a shout, I’m 
happy to help.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C&C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6173 / Virus Database: 4457/10971 - Release Date: 11/09/15

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Re: Stus-List C&C 25 headsail size

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Ahmet,

 

When these boats were designed in the early ‘70s a #1 genoa was a 170 (actually 
around a 163% overlap), a #2 was a low hoist 150 and the working jib was a high 
clew 110.

Now PHRF regions have a 153/155 as a #1 genoa and anything over that carries a 
rating penalty. If you race in an area with consistently light air the penalty 
might be worth it.

My #1 is a UK Tape Drive 153 that I fly up to ~15kts apparent wind. After that 
I switch to a very old Dacron Fogh #2 that is a full hoist ~140 (I never 
actually measured it but it’s smaller than a 150).

I can carry this sail into the mid 20s if I tuck in a reef. Despite being old 
this sail has won me a lot of races.  I also use this sail for daysailing as 
it’s easy to handle if I sheet it outside the lifelines.

Above 25 apparent it’s the working jib and I also have an Etchells jib to use 
if it’s really blowing.

As was said before, the boat will heel to 20-25 deg then get really stiff. 

 

If you have any specific questions on setting up your boat or would like some 
tricks that I’ve learnt over the years email me direct and I’ll answer them. 
(depending on your mail program, if you hit reply all instead of reply, my 
email address should be listed too)

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C&C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ahmet via 
CnC-List
Sent: November-09-15 13:52
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ahmet
Subject: Stus-List C&C 25 headsail size

 

Next year I will race Tabasco a bit. I have 2 headsails, one seems to be a 105, 
the other a 130.

I like the 105, because it is easy to tack, and strong enough to have an 
enjoyable sail if I am lazy and it is blowing over 10.

The sail in Sailboatdata looks like a pretty big sail, like a 150.

 

What is the largest reasonable headsail you guys on the 25 use, without having 
to deal with excessive tenderness ?

Thank You

Ahmet

S/V Tabasco

1973 C&C 25Boston, MA

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6173 / Virus Database: 4457/10971 - Release Date: 11/09/15

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Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Bruce Pope via CnC-List]

This is my first post so please be kind if I am doing anything wrong.

I have an  '86 29 MKII purchased in august with leaking windows.There is 
obvious signs of repair to the gel coat around the windows so I am certain they 
have been replaced before.   Windows are in good shape so I just need to re-bed.

How can I tell the difference between polycarbonate and acrylic?  I have 
started to remove one of the windows by digging out the old sealant and 
carefully pulling it away and it bends a bit.  Can I assume therefore it is 
polycarbonate?

Any concerns about getting the window off later to reseal if using 3M VHB tape. 
 3M says this tape forms a 'permanent bond'.

Derek McLeod on a C&C 29-2 used DOW 795.  How did you hold the window in place 
while the 795 cured?

Thanks.


Bruce

s/v 'Gyrfalcon'

'86 C&C 29 MK II

Kootenay Lake, BC


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Re: Stus-List C&C 25 headsail size

[Ahmet via CnC-List]

Thank you for the info Rick. I will email you privately if I have any
specific questions.
With the 110, I need to use the toerail in order give the upper part the
proper twist.
Even close hauled, at times the inside track is just too short. If I was
serious about it I could probably rig a barber haul, but the sail is small
enough that just unhooking it from the car and hooking it to the toareail
woks.

I noticed that I can sheet my 110 between the outer and inner shroud. It
will only work in close haul because my track stops 3 feet behind the
chainplate and the sheet would rub on the shrouds.
They were obviously designed for larger gennys.
I may try to find for some lightly used 150 headsails.
Thank You
Ahmet


On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 2:58 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ahmet,
>
>
>
> When these boats were designed in the early ‘70s a #1 genoa was a 170
> (actually around a 163% overlap), a #2 was a low hoist 150 and the working
> jib was a high clew 110.
>
> Now PHRF regions have a 153/155 as a #1 genoa and anything over that
> carries a rating penalty. If you race in an area with consistently light
> air the penalty might be worth it.
>
> My #1 is a UK Tape Drive 153 that I fly up to ~15kts apparent wind. After
> that I switch to a very old Dacron Fogh #2 that is a full hoist ~140 (I
> never actually measured it but it’s smaller than a 150).
>
> I can carry this sail into the mid 20s if I tuck in a reef. Despite being
> old this sail has won me a lot of races.  I also use this sail for
> daysailing as it’s easy to handle if I sheet it outside the lifelines.
>
> Above 25 apparent it’s the working jib and I also have an Etchells jib to
> use if it’s really blowing.
>
> As was said before, the boat will heel to 20-25 deg then get really stiff.
>
>
>
> If you have any specific questions on setting up your boat or would like
> some tricks that I’ve learnt over the years email me direct and I’ll answer
> them. (depending on your mail program, if you hit *reply all* instead of
> *reply*, my email address should be listed too)
>
>
>
> Rick Taillieu
>
> Nemesis
>
> '75 C&C 25  #371
>
> Shearwater Yacht Club
>
> Halifax, NS.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Ahmet
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* November-09-15 13:52
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Ahmet
> *Subject:* Stus-List C&C 25 headsail size
>
>
>
> Next year I will race Tabasco a bit. I have 2 headsails, one seems to be a
> 105, the other a 130.
>
> I like the 105, because it is easy to tack, and strong enough to have an
> enjoyable sail if I am lazy and it is blowing over 10.
>
> The sail in Sailboatdata looks like a pretty big sail, like a 150.
>
>
>
> What is the largest reasonable headsail you guys on the 25 use, without
> having to deal with excessive tenderness ?
>
> Thank You
>
> Ahmet
>
> S/V Tabasco
>
> 1973 C&C 25Boston, MA
>
>
> --
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2015.0.6173 / Virus Database: 4457/10971 - Release Date: 11/09/15
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Stus-List New to me C&C 33

[Paul Wyand via CnC-List]

I have purchased a 1976 C&C 33 MK I that had some fire damage (due to a
fire on a neighboring boat) to the outside of the starboard side of the
hull. she is floating but dirty all around. I am planing on doing  a modest
restore on her. I am not looking for perfection but for a nice fun to sail
boat that I will also live on. The previous owner was kind of a down to
basics kind of guy. No shore power, no real electronics hank on sails. his
daughter said that they tried to talk him into self tailing winches, and he
said "what do I need self tailers for? I have you to tail the lines!" Has
lots of sails, and the rest of the boat appears to be pretty good. So the
plan is this winter clean up the interior, get shore power set up and some
sort of heat so I can spend at least weekends on board working on the boat.
I have her in a winter wet storage slip and the everything is winterized
except the engine. she has the mast down and winter cover frame is up. Once
I am in the final "winter slip" I will winterize the engine. Once the
weather warms up enough I will have the boat hulled and I will do
fiberglass repairs and paint the exterior. So a couple of questions:

1.) First and really simple, where is the cushion for the double bunk
supposed to go when not in use? I don't see any simple locations. I have
moved it as there is a bit of deck leaking over that settee.

2.) There was some damage to the side of the hull, and the neighboring
boat's mast came down on the cabin top. There is some cracking on the cabin
top, soft side deck and both of the fixed ports are damaged.

Obviously the ports are long off the market. I see a couple of options
make over-sized ports and surface mount to the cabin top sides both sides.
(likely least expensive)
Get all new opening Bomar Gray 6X23 inch ports. Looks like they may fit,
has anyone installed them?
Get two bomar ports and move one of the existing ports over and have two
fixed and two opening ports (saves some money but the lenses on the
existing ports are not great and looks like someone has tried to stop leaks
with caulk, so may just be full of frustration)

3.) Where can I find out the fiberglass layup schedule? I want to duplicate
it as much as possible. I have read that they used unidirectional roving on
the boat. My plan on the hull side is to put a few layers on inside just to
hold the shape, then from the outside to grind down till I get to good
glass and build back up from there. On the cabin top and side decks I plan
on cutting off the top layer of fiberglass and replacing core  and
re-glass. Then paint the topsides and deck with one part paint and call it
a day.

Good news is the boat has a Atomic 4 that runs like a champ! Made the 25
mile trip from storage yard to new home without a hiccup.
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Bruce,
 Welcome to the C&C forum.  Some members get a little cranky, but most
are wonderful folks that just want to help.

 First a few basics.  Plexiglas is a trade name for acrylic and Lexan
is the trade name for poly carbonate.  Poly carbonate is known for being
bullet proof, but easy to scratch.  Acrylics are more scratch resistant,
but not as tough.  If you are in trouble with the mob, then by all means
use poly carbonate otherwise acrylic is probably a better choice.  I don't
know how to tell the difference between the two.once installed.

 Don't quote me on this, but I think VHB (Very High Bond) can be
separated with a razor blade driven between the surfaces.  After that
delicate scraping is probably involved.  Anything is better than Plexus.
It is almost impossible to remove.  You can grind it out, but if it is in a
recess, then you have to worry about damaging the surrounding area.

Best of luck,
Gary
S/V High Maintenance
1990 C&C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 4:23 PM, Bruce Pope via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> This is my first post so please be kind if I am doing anything wrong.
>
> I have an  '86 29 MKII purchased in august with leaking windows.There
> is obvious signs of repair to the gel coat around the windows so I
> am certain they have been replaced before.   Windows are in good shape so I
> just need to re-bed.
>
> How can I tell the difference between polycarbonate and acrylic?  I have
> started to remove one of the windows by digging out the old sealant and
> carefully pulling it away and it bends a bit.  Can I assume therefore it is
> polycarbonate?
>
> Any concerns about getting the window off later to reseal if using 3M VHB
> tape.  3M says this tape forms a 'permanent bond'.
>
> Derek McLeod on a C&C 29-2 used DOW 795.  How did you hold the window in
> place while the 795 cured?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> Bruce
>
> s/v 'Gyrfalcon'
>
> '86 C&C 29 MK II
>
> Kootenay Lake, BC
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Ahmet via CnC-List]

A lot of people paraise using Butyl tape for attaching windows.
I have not done it, but I can see the results on my C&C Hull/Deck joint,
and it looks pretty good
Ahmet


On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 5:48 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Bruce,
>  Welcome to the C&C forum.  Some members get a little cranky, but most
> are wonderful folks that just want to help.
>
>  First a few basics.  Plexiglas is a trade name for acrylic and Lexan
> is the trade name for poly carbonate.  Poly carbonate is known for being
> bullet proof, but easy to scratch.  Acrylics are more scratch resistant,
> but not as tough.  If you are in trouble with the mob, then by all means
> use poly carbonate otherwise acrylic is probably a better choice.  I don't
> know how to tell the difference between the two.once installed.
>
>  Don't quote me on this, but I think VHB (Very High Bond) can be
> separated with a razor blade driven between the surfaces.  After that
> delicate scraping is probably involved.  Anything is better than Plexus.
> It is almost impossible to remove.  You can grind it out, but if it is in a
> recess, then you have to worry about damaging the surrounding area.
>
> Best of luck,
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> 1990 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 4:23 PM, Bruce Pope via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> This is my first post so please be kind if I am doing anything wrong.
>>
>> I have an  '86 29 MKII purchased in august with leaking windows.There
>> is obvious signs of repair to the gel coat around the windows so I
>> am certain they have been replaced before.   Windows are in good shape so I
>> just need to re-bed.
>>
>> How can I tell the difference between polycarbonate and acrylic?  I have
>> started to remove one of the windows by digging out the old sealant and
>> carefully pulling it away and it bends a bit.  Can I assume therefore it is
>> polycarbonate?
>>
>> Any concerns about getting the window off later to reseal if using 3M VHB
>> tape.  3M says this tape forms a 'permanent bond'.
>>
>> Derek McLeod on a C&C 29-2 used DOW 795.  How did you hold the window in
>> place while the 795 cured?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>>
>> Bruce
>>
>> s/v 'Gyrfalcon'
>>
>> '86 C&C 29 MK II
>>
>> Kootenay Lake, BC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Butyl tape is a terrific sealant.  I use it all the time.  It is not an
adhesive, however, and should not be used to bond windows to fiberglass.

Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 6:01 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
wrote:

> A lot of people paraise using Butyl tape for attaching windows.
> I have not done it, but I can see the results on my C&C Hull/Deck joint,
> and it looks pretty good
> Ahmet
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 5:48 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Bruce,
>>  Welcome to the C&C forum.  Some members get a little cranky, but
>> most are wonderful folks that just want to help.
>>
>>  First a few basics.  Plexiglas is a trade name for acrylic and Lexan
>> is the trade name for poly carbonate.  Poly carbonate is known for being
>> bullet proof, but easy to scratch.  Acrylics are more scratch resistant,
>> but not as tough.  If you are in trouble with the mob, then by all means
>> use poly carbonate otherwise acrylic is probably a better choice.  I don't
>> know how to tell the difference between the two.once installed.
>>
>>  Don't quote me on this, but I think VHB (Very High Bond) can be
>> separated with a razor blade driven between the surfaces.  After that
>> delicate scraping is probably involved.  Anything is better than Plexus.
>> It is almost impossible to remove.  You can grind it out, but if it is in a
>> recess, then you have to worry about damaging the surrounding area.
>>
>> Best of luck,
>> Gary
>> S/V High Maintenance
>> 1990 C&C 37 Plus
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 4:23 PM, Bruce Pope via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> This is my first post so please be kind if I am doing anything wrong.
>>>
>>> I have an  '86 29 MKII purchased in august with leaking windows.
>>> There is obvious signs of repair to the gel coat around the windows so I
>>> am certain they have been replaced before.   Windows are in good shape so I
>>> just need to re-bed.
>>>
>>> How can I tell the difference between polycarbonate and acrylic?  I have
>>> started to remove one of the windows by digging out the old sealant and
>>> carefully pulling it away and it bends a bit.  Can I assume therefore it is
>>> polycarbonate?
>>>
>>> Any concerns about getting the window off later to reseal if using 3M
>>> VHB tape.  3M says this tape forms a 'permanent bond'.
>>>
>>> Derek McLeod on a C&C 29-2 used DOW 795.  How did you hold the window in
>>> place while the 795 cured?
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>>
>>> Bruce
>>>
>>> s/v 'Gyrfalcon'
>>>
>>> '86 C&C 29 MK II
>>>
>>> Kootenay Lake, BC
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Stus-List Removing Windows

[robert via CnC-List]

Steve:

I took a narrow but very stiff putty knifefurther sharpened the edge 
with a filethen with a hammer, slowly taped and cut out the old 
windows from the inside.   Got 3 windows out, no problem, then window no 
.4, the forward long port one, bottom and 2 sides cut O.K..had a 
problem cutting the top of this windowmaybe my impatience, maybe 
just bad luck, I touched the bottom of the window and pushed it out and 
the top came free along with a chunk of gelcoat.


That's another story on the gelcoat repair but I did good matching the 
gelcoat color   and that's another story!


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On Nov 8, 2015, at 9:18 PM,Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


For those that have done the job, how did you manage the removal of 
the old windows? I imagine I'de destroy any gelcoat down there if I 
gave this a try.


Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto




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Re: Stus-List New to me C&C 33

[John and Sue Fletcher via CnC-List]

The cushion for the settee on my c&c 33-1 fits nicely on the outer side wall of 
the quarter berth cant remember if the wood reinforcement goes up or down but 
it fits much nicer one way than the other.

I replaced my ports with beckson opening ports and all i had to do was take out 
a little of the rounding in the corners  length and width were perfect

From: Paul Wyand via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2015 5:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Paul Wyand 
Subject: Stus-List New to me C&C 33

I have purchased a 1976 C&C 33 MK I that had some fire damage (due to a fire on 
a neighboring boat) to the outside of the starboard side of the hull. she is 
floating but dirty all around. I am planing on doing  a modest restore on her. 
I am not looking for perfection but for a nice fun to sail boat that I will 
also live on. The previous owner was kind of a down to basics kind of guy. No 
shore power, no real electronics hank on sails. his daughter said that they 
tried to talk him into self tailing winches, and he said "what do I need self 
tailers for? I have you to tail the lines!" Has lots of sails, and the rest of 
the boat appears to be pretty good. So the plan is this winter clean up the 
interior, get shore power set up and some sort of heat so I can spend at least 
weekends on board working on the boat. I have her in a winter wet storage slip 
and the everything is winterized except the engine. she has the mast down and 
winter cover frame is up. Once I am in the final "winter slip" I will winterize 
the engine. Once the weather warms up enough I will have the boat hulled and I 
will do fiberglass repairs and paint the exterior. So a couple of questions:


1.) First and really simple, where is the cushion for the double bunk supposed 
to go when not in use? I don't see any simple locations. I have moved it as 
there is a bit of deck leaking over that settee. 


2.) There was some damage to the side of the hull, and the neighboring boat's 
mast came down on the cabin top. There is some cracking on the cabin top, soft 
side deck and both of the fixed ports are damaged. 


Obviously the ports are long off the market. I see a couple of options

make over-sized ports and surface mount to the cabin top sides both sides. 
(likely least expensive)

Get all new opening Bomar Gray 6X23 inch ports. Looks like they may fit, has 
anyone installed them?

Get two bomar ports and move one of the existing ports over and have two fixed 
and two opening ports (saves some money but the lenses on the existing ports 
are not great and looks like someone has tried to stop leaks with caulk, so may 
just be full of frustration)


3.) Where can I find out the fiberglass layup schedule? I want to duplicate it 
as much as possible. I have read that they used unidirectional roving on the 
boat. My plan on the hull side is to put a few layers on inside just to hold 
the shape, then from the outside to grind down till I get to good glass and 
build back up from there. On the cabin top and side decks I plan on cutting off 
the top layer of fiberglass and replacing core  and re-glass. Then paint the 
topsides and deck with one part paint and call it a day. 


Good news is the boat has a Atomic 4 that runs like a champ! Made the 25 mile 
trip from storage yard to new home without a hiccup. 




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Re: Stus-List New to me C&C 33

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

>3.) Where can I find out the fiberglass layup schedule?

Paul,

A good place to find details on your C&C’s construction details is the Maritime 
Museum of the Great Lakes in Kingston.  I was able to buy copies of Calypso 
build drawings which have been very helpful on our deck restoration project.

Regarding your repair project, Sailing Anarchy’s Fixit Forum has had some great 
discussions on repairing damaged boats.  It may take a while to sort out the 
background noise to get to the good stuff but there are some very good posts 
relating to your type of project.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul Wyand 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2015 2:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Wyand
Subject: Stus-List New to me C&C 33

I have purchased a 1976 C&C 33 MK I that had some fire damage (due to a fire on 
a neighboring boat) to the outside of the starboard side of the hull. she is 
floating but dirty all around. I am planing on doing  a modest restore on her. 
I am not looking for perfection but for a nice fun to sail boat that I will 
also live on. The previous owner was kind of a down to basics kind of guy. No 
shore power, no real electronics hank on sails. his daughter said that they 
tried to talk him into self tailing winches, and he said "what do I need self 
tailers for? I have you to tail the lines!" Has lots of sails, and the rest of 
the boat appears to be pretty good. So the plan is this winter clean up the 
interior, get shore power set up and some sort of heat so I can spend at least 
weekends on board working on the boat. I have her in a winter wet storage slip 
and the everything is winterized except the engine. she has the mast down and 
winter cover frame is up. Once I am in the final "winter slip" I will winterize 
the engine. Once the weather warms up enough I will have the boat hulled and I 
will do fiberglass repairs and paint the exterior. So a couple of questions:
1.) First and really simple, where is the cushion for the double bunk supposed 
to go when not in use? I don't see any simple locations. I have moved it as 
there is a bit of deck leaking over that settee.
2.) There was some damage to the side of the hull, and the neighboring boat's 
mast came down on the cabin top. There is some cracking on the cabin top, soft 
side deck and both of the fixed ports are damaged.
Obviously the ports are long off the market. I see a couple of options
make over-sized ports and surface mount to the cabin top sides both sides. 
(likely least expensive)
Get all new opening Bomar Gray 6X23 inch ports. Looks like they may fit, has 
anyone installed them?
Get two bomar ports and move one of the existing ports over and have two fixed 
and two opening ports (saves some money but the lenses on the existing ports 
are not great and looks like someone has tried to stop leaks with caulk, so may 
just be full of frustration)
3.) Where can I find out the fiberglass layup schedule? I want to duplicate it 
as much as possible. I have read that they used unidirectional roving on the 
boat. My plan on the hull side is to put a few layers on inside just to hold 
the shape, then from the outside to grind down till I get to good glass and 
build back up from there. On the cabin top and side decks I plan on cutting off 
the top layer of fiberglass and replacing core  and re-glass. Then paint the 
topsides and deck with one part paint and call it a day.
Good news is the boat has a Atomic 4 that runs like a champ! Made the 25 mile 
trip from storage yard to new home without a hiccup.
___

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

More response to this thread; I’ve been working on the fixed ports on my boat 
over the last few days and and paying close attention. After absorbing a good 
bit of the info in the thread and the links provided, I’m planning on moving 
away from using Plexus ("if it was good enough for my grandfather it’s good 
enough for me!”) and using the 3M tape. Seems the more modern ticket to me.

I’m anticipating the operation to be a good bit easy than using Plexus, 
certainly if it is just one person doing the job.

Cheers,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 


> On Nov 9, 2015, at 11:56 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Was afraid of that.  The only ports close to the new C&C ports I've done were 
> on a Beneteau.  Don't remember how hard the adhesive was.
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 10:45 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hi Dennis,
>  I'm quite sure those blades would work well for soft calk like silicones 
> or urethanes, but Plexus is hard as a rock and I don't think they would work. 
>  In addition, the big problem is getting at the bottom window joint that is 
> very close to the turn on the deck.
> 
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance (formerly Expresso)
> 1990 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 11:25 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Not quite the same thing but lately I've been removing ports that were held 
> in with sealant by using a vibrating saw with a caulk cutting blade.  Like 
> these:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-OSC214C-4-Inch-Caulk-Knife/dp/B004UBF43S 
> 
> 
> http://multifitblades.com/straight-sealant-cutter.html 
> 
> 
> Not sure how they would work on Plexus or Sika adhesives.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 9:30 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>  "Wow!  You guys are lucky!  My Windows came out in pieces with significant 
> gel coat damage."
> Well, Gary, you are "High Maintenance" ;)
> Mike Amirault
> Lovely Cruise C&C33MKii
> SMSC
> 
> ___
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List New to me C&C 33

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Hi Paul,
Are the port frames salvageable? It's not too hard to put in new lenses.
I've used butyl between the frames and the cabintop and black 4200 to seal
the lenses into the frames. No leaks - finally.
As for the layup schedule, I'd just overbuild it until the extra fiberglass
is almost noticeable.
Great boat!
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL


On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 5:16 PM, Paul Wyand via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have purchased a 1976 C&C 33 MK I that had some fire damage (due to a
> fire on a neighboring boat) to the outside of the starboard side of the
> hull. she is floating but dirty all around. I am planing on doing  a modest
> restore on her. I am not looking for perfection but for a nice fun to sail
> boat that I will also live on. The previous owner was kind of a down to
> basics kind of guy. No shore power, no real electronics hank on sails. his
> daughter said that they tried to talk him into self tailing winches, and he
> said "what do I need self tailers for? I have you to tail the lines!" Has
> lots of sails, and the rest of the boat appears to be pretty good. So the
> plan is this winter clean up the interior, get shore power set up and some
> sort of heat so I can spend at least weekends on board working on the boat.
> I have her in a winter wet storage slip and the everything is winterized
> except the engine. she has the mast down and winter cover frame is up. Once
> I am in the final "winter slip" I will winterize the engine. Once the
> weather warms up enough I will have the boat hulled and I will do
> fiberglass repairs and paint the exterior. So a couple of questions:
>
> 1.) First and really simple, where is the cushion for the double bunk
> supposed to go when not in use? I don't see any simple locations. I have
> moved it as there is a bit of deck leaking over that settee.
>
> 2.) There was some damage to the side of the hull, and the neighboring
> boat's mast came down on the cabin top. There is some cracking on the cabin
> top, soft side deck and both of the fixed ports are damaged.
>
> Obviously the ports are long off the market. I see a couple of options
> make over-sized ports and surface mount to the cabin top sides both sides.
> (likely least expensive)
> Get all new opening Bomar Gray 6X23 inch ports. Looks like they may fit,
> has anyone installed them?
> Get two bomar ports and move one of the existing ports over and have two
> fixed and two opening ports (saves some money but the lenses on the
> existing ports are not great and looks like someone has tried to stop leaks
> with caulk, so may just be full of frustration)
>
> 3.) Where can I find out the fiberglass layup schedule? I want to
> duplicate it as much as possible. I have read that they used unidirectional
> roving on the boat. My plan on the hull side is to put a few layers on
> inside just to hold the shape, then from the outside to grind down till I
> get to good glass and build back up from there. On the cabin top and side
> decks I plan on cutting off the top layer of fiberglass and replacing core
> and re-glass. Then paint the topsides and deck with one part paint and call
> it a day.
>
> Good news is the boat has a Atomic 4 that runs like a champ! Made the 25
> mile trip from storage yard to new home without a hiccup.
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

A very important distinction (made before by others) when talking about
rebedding windows/ports/port lights is whether the window is the old style,
i.e. aluminium frame attached to the cabintop and a lens attached to the
frame or, the newer style which is a lens glued directly to the the outside
of the cabintop,

This distinction eluded me for quite awhile when reading threads about
rebedding windows/ports/port lights.

I have the old style windows and am very happy using butyl to seal the
frames to the outside of the cabintop (along with the screws that attach
the frame to the cabintop). (Here, there's a difference between attaching
and sealing.)

The newer windows/ports/port lights rely on a very strong adhesive to both
attach and seal the lens to the outside of the cabintop.

Hope this helps,

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL


On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 6:01 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
wrote:

> A lot of people paraise using Butyl tape for attaching windows.
> I have not done it, but I can see the results on my C&C Hull/Deck joint,
> and it looks pretty good
> Ahmet
>
> 
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Dave, I checked your blog and that's an impressive effort there on the
refit. I hope the VHB works out for you.

Ahmet, I hear butyl is good for the aluminum frame portlights on the 70s
C&Cs. The fixed port lights on the 80s boats are supposed to be structural
so they have to be bonded to the cabin top.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto



On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 7:40 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> More response to this thread; I’ve been working on the fixed ports on my
> boat over the last few days and and paying close attention. After absorbing
> a good bit of the info in the thread and the links provided, I’m planning
> on moving away from using Plexus ("if it was good enough for my grandfather
> it’s good enough for me!”) and using the 3M tape. Seems the more modern
> ticket to me.
>
> I’m anticipating the operation to be a good bit easy than using Plexus,
> certainly if it is just one person doing the job.
>
> Cheers,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
>
> On Nov 9, 2015, at 11:56 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Was afraid of that.  The only ports close to the new C&C ports I've done
> were on a Beneteau.  Don't remember how hard the adhesive was.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 10:45 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Dennis,
>>  I'm quite sure those blades would work well for soft calk like
>> silicones or urethanes, but Plexus is hard as a rock and I don't think they
>> would work.  In addition, the big problem is getting at the bottom window
>> joint that is very close to the turn on the deck.
>>
>> Gary
>> S/V High Maintenance (formerly Expresso)
>> 1990 C&C 37 Plus
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 11:25 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Not quite the same thing but lately I've been removing ports that were
>>> held in with sealant by using a vibrating saw with a caulk cutting blade.
>>> Like these:
>>>
>>> http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-OSC214C-4-Inch-Caulk-Knife/dp/B004UBF43S
>>>
>>> http://multifitblades.com/straight-sealant-cutter.html
>>>
>>> Not sure how they would work on Plexus or Sika adhesives.
>>>
>>> Dennis C.
>>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>>> Mandeville, LA
>>>
>>> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 9:30 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 "Wow!  You guys are lucky!  My Windows came out in pieces with significant 
 gel coat damage."

 Well, Gary, you are "High Maintenance" ;)

 Mike Amirault

 Lovely Cruise C&C33MKii

 SMSC


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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Bob,
Good point.
Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 8:50 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> A very important distinction (made before by others) when talking about
> rebedding windows/ports/port lights is whether the window is the old style,
> i.e. aluminium frame attached to the cabintop and a lens attached to the
> frame or, the newer style which is a lens glued directly to the the outside
> of the cabintop,
>
> This distinction eluded me for quite awhile when reading threads about
> rebedding windows/ports/port lights.
>
> I have the old style windows and am very happy using butyl to seal the
> frames to the outside of the cabintop (along with the screws that attach
> the frame to the cabintop). (Here, there's a difference between attaching
> and sealing.)
>
> The newer windows/ports/port lights rely on a very strong adhesive to both
> attach and seal the lens to the outside of the cabintop.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Bob M
> Ox 33-1
> Jax, FL
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 6:01 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> A lot of people paraise using Butyl tape for attaching windows.
>> I have not done it, but I can see the results on my C&C Hull/Deck joint,
>> and it looks pretty good
>> Ahmet
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List New to me C&C 33

[Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List]

Martin,
Do know if they have drawings for 30-1? What is the process for requesting 
them? It would be great to have Admiral Maggie's drawings...

Cheers,
Aaron Rouhi
Admiral Maggie
79 30-1
Annapolis, MD

On Nov 9, 2015, at 7:29 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

>3.) Where can I find out the fiberglass layup schedule?

Paul,

A good place to find details on your C&C's construction details is the Maritime 
Museum of the Great Lakes in Kingston.  I was able to buy copies of Calypso 
build drawings which have been very helpful on our deck restoration project.

Regarding your repair project, Sailing Anarchy's Fixit Forum has had some great 
discussions on repairing damaged boats.  It may take a while to sort out the 
background noise to get to the good stuff but there are some very good posts 
relating to your type of project.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul Wyand 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2015 2:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Wyand
Subject: Stus-List New to me C&C 33

I have purchased a 1976 C&C 33 MK I that had some fire damage (due to a fire on 
a neighboring boat) to the outside of the starboard side of the hull. she is 
floating but dirty all around. I am planing on doing  a modest restore on her. 
I am not looking for perfection but for a nice fun to sail boat that I will 
also live on. The previous owner was kind of a down to basics kind of guy. No 
shore power, no real electronics hank on sails. his daughter said that they 
tried to talk him into self tailing winches, and he said "what do I need self 
tailers for? I have you to tail the lines!" Has lots of sails, and the rest of 
the boat appears to be pretty good. So the plan is this winter clean up the 
interior, get shore power set up and some sort of heat so I can spend at least 
weekends on board working on the boat. I have her in a winter wet storage slip 
and the everything is winterized except the engine. she has the mast down and 
winter cover frame is up. Once I am in the final "winter slip" I will winterize 
the engine. Once the weather warms up enough I will have the boat hulled and I 
will do fiberglass repairs and paint the exterior. So a couple of questions:
1.) First and really simple, where is the cushion for the double bunk supposed 
to go when not in use? I don't see any simple locations. I have moved it as 
there is a bit of deck leaking over that settee.
2.) There was some damage to the side of the hull, and the neighboring boat's 
mast came down on the cabin top. There is some cracking on the cabin top, soft 
side deck and both of the fixed ports are damaged.
Obviously the ports are long off the market. I see a couple of options
make over-sized ports and surface mount to the cabin top sides both sides. 
(likely least expensive)
Get all new opening Bomar Gray 6X23 inch ports. Looks like they may fit, has 
anyone installed them?
Get two bomar ports and move one of the existing ports over and have two fixed 
and two opening ports (saves some money but the lenses on the existing ports 
are not great and looks like someone has tried to stop leaks with caulk, so may 
just be full of frustration)
3.) Where can I find out the fiberglass layup schedule? I want to duplicate it 
as much as possible. I have read that they used unidirectional roving on the 
boat. My plan on the hull side is to put a few layers on inside just to hold 
the shape, then from the outside to grind down till I get to good glass and 
build back up from there. On the cabin top and side decks I plan on cutting off 
the top layer of fiberglass and replacing core  and re-glass. Then paint the 
topsides and deck with one part paint and call it a day.
Good news is the boat has a Atomic 4 that runs like a champ! Made the 25 mile 
trip from storage yard to new home without a hiccup.
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Re: Stus-List Shift / throttle cables

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

My throttle cable came with a small clamp that squeezes the outer plastic 
sheath against the inner SS rod. I've seen this same setup on several other 
boats. Without it, the throttle spring pulls the lever till the engine slows to 
an idle. Some Edson binacles have a screw that serves the same purpose. When 
you pull the compass, it can be seen as a SS screw that puts pressure on the 
lever shaft. 



Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "John and Maryann Read via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "John and Maryann Read"  
Sent: Sunday, November 8, 2015 9:25:31 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Shift / throttle cables 



Have removed the shift and throttle cables as they were stiff and had excessive 
resistance. Not surprising as they are OEM and 33 years old. Any thoughts on 
suitable replacement and where to purchase?? 



On a related note, our Yanmar 3GM throttle has a built in internal spring that 
applies increasing resistance as the throttle is opened more. The OEM fix was 
to put an adjustable crimp in the cable but that seems less than ideal. Any 
thoughts as to how to offset the internal spring?? 



Many thanks for your thoughts 



John & Maryann 

Legacy III 

1982 C&C 34 

Noank, CT 





This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. 
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Re: Stus-List race to cuba

[Paul Eugenio via CnC-List]

I have been looking for final results for several days.  There has been no 
update on the race website, but I came across this in the Pensacola News 
Journal:

http://www.pnj.com/story/sports/2015/11/09/kriegel-reiss-share-pensacola-la-habana-honors/75485862/


Congratulations to the Deja Vu crew for a strong 3rd place in class and overall 
diversion.


Andrews Institute Pensacola a la Habana 2015

CORRECTED TIME RESULTS

• MODERN CRUISER DIVISION

CLASS A

1— XTC, Beneteau OC 461, Tom Glew, St. Petersburg FL

2— Lesson #1, J130, Guy Williams/Mike Finn, New Orleans LA

3— Déjà Vu, C&C34+, Stephen Thorne, Norcross GA/Mandeville LA

4— Na Zdravi, Beneteau 47, Chris Schmidt, Montgomery AL/Panama City FL

CLASS B

1— Legacy, Hylas 49, Alan Steele, Gulf Breeze FL

2— La Gazelle, Beneteau 381, Kirby Louque, Metairie LA

3— TraSea, (re: Midnight Sun II) Beneteau 473, Neil Davies/Larry Cost, 
Pensacola FL

4— Tif Blue, Tartan 34, Bob Suberi, Orange Beach AL

MODERN CRUISER DIVISION OVERALL

1— XTC, Beneteau OC 461, Tom Glew, St. Petersburg FL

2— Lesson #1, J130, Guy Williams/ Mike Finn, New Orleans LA

3— Déjà Vu, C&C34+, Stephen Thorne, Norcross GA/Mandeville LA

4— Legacy, Hylas 49, Alan Steele, Gulf Breeze FL

• CLASSIC CRUISER DIVISION 

CLASS C

1— Libra, Tripp 57, Ryan Rayfield, Orange Beach AL

2— Radio Flyer, Valiant 40, Tim Cerniglia, New Orleans LA

3— Serengeti, Formosa 45, Larry Hamilton, Marathon FL

CLASS D

1— Acadia, Pearson 424, Bob Kriegel, Pensacola FL

2— Chanty, Cape Dory 36, Larry McAnally, Ashland OR/Destin FL

3— Learning to Fly, Island Packet 38, Robert Witzler, Apollo Beach FL

CLASSIC CRUISER DIVISION OVERALL

1— Acadia, Pearson 424, Bob Kriegel, Pensacola FL

2— Chanty, Cape Dory 36, Larry McAnally, Ashland OR/Destin FL

3— Libra, Tripp 57, Ryan Rayfield, Orange Beach AL

4— Radio Flyer, Valiant 40, Tim Cerniglia, New Orleans LA

MONOHULL FLEET CORRECTED TIME OVERALL WINNER

1— Acadia, Pearson 424, Bob Kriegel, Pensacola FL

MULTIHULL CLASS & DIVISION

1— Bene Vita, R&C 46, George Reiss, Panama City FL

2— Odalisque, Catana 43, Tom Schinkert, Elberta AL

3— Belafonte, Corsair 31R, Mike Patterson, Pensacola FL

MULTIHULL FLEET CORRECTED TIME OVERALL WINNER

1— Bene Vita, R&C 46, George Reiss, Panama City FL

PACE PERPETUAL TROPHY WINNERS

Monohull— Acadia, Pearson 424, Bob Kriegel, Pensacola FL

Multihull— Bene Vita, R&C 46, George Reiss, Panama City FL

OVERALL BEST CORRECTED TIME TROPHY WINNER

Bene Vita, R&C 46, George Reiss, Panama City FL



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Nov 5, 2015, at 9:47 AM, Dreuge  wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I just checked to see how the race was going for Deja Vu.   At 9:00AM, Steve 
> Thorne is just shy of the finish by 1.7NM.  Given delays in reporting data, 
> he has likely finished.  Congratulations!
> 
> Reading the news updates from the race website is interesting.  "Several of 
> the boats that have finished— and many still on the course— have used their 
> engines for propulsion. Calculating the adjusted corrected times of all the 
> boats will be complex.” 
> 
> 
> Recall last year Steve gave us an update on Deja Vu’s experiences in the 
> Regata Al Sol, the race from Pensacola to Isla Mujeras.   In short, he shared 
> his experience with the steering failure due to not easily seen idler plate 
> corrosion.   
> 
> After reading about Steve’s report, I went and thoroughly checked my steering 
> idler.  Mine was steering failure in waiting…  I wrote about it on the 
> Johanna Rose blog: 
>   
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2015/11/replacing-steering-cross-wire-idlers.html
>  
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to everyone for these after reports.  
> 
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ 

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