Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?

[Dave Syer via CnC-List]

winter project 32a:  upgrade electronics  ('85 c&c33ii)

Am removing the vintage B&G hunter depth and speed instruments, replacing
with raymarine p70, i70.  both are multifunction displays, and one - the
p70, is the control head for the autopilot.   2015 was my first sailing
season with an autopilot and I used it a lot - great investment.

I was unsure where I wanted to mount the control head so I did so
temporarily on the coaming in the beckson access hatch, adjacent to the
helm, at knee height more or less.  My season with the unit showed me that
I could use the at like two locations - at the helm, (enclosure/pod
on pedestal) OR beside the companionway where it can be operated from under
the dodger, when motoring. Leaning toward the former, but still not clear
in my mind
Thoughts, suggestions, alternatives?   Thanks.

Dave
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Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

FWIW mine is in the pod. Very happy with it there.
Joel

On Saturday, October 17, 2015, Dave Syer via CnC-List 
wrote:

> winter project 32a:  upgrade electronics  ('85 c&c33ii)
>
> Am removing the vintage B&G hunter depth and speed instruments, replacing
> with raymarine p70, i70.  both are multifunction displays, and one - the
> p70, is the control head for the autopilot.   2015 was my first sailing
> season with an autopilot and I used it a lot - great investment.
>
> I was unsure where I wanted to mount the control head so I did so
> temporarily on the coaming in the beckson access hatch, adjacent to the
> helm, at knee height more or less.  My season with the unit showed me that
> I could use the at like two locations - at the helm, (enclosure/pod
> on pedestal) OR beside the companionway where it can be operated from under
> the dodger, when motoring. Leaning toward the former, but still not clear
> in my mind
> Thoughts, suggestions, alternatives?   Thanks.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

It's nice to be holding the wheel when you engage / disengage, so at the helm 
is my preference too.

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

> On Oct 17, 2015, at 8:12 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> FWIW mine is in the pod. Very happy with it there. 
> Joel
> 
>> On Saturday, October 17, 2015, Dave Syer via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> winter project 32a:  upgrade electronics  ('85 c&c33ii)
>> 
>> Am removing the vintage B&G hunter depth and speed instruments, replacing 
>> with raymarine p70, i70.  both are multifunction displays, and one - the 
>> p70, is the control head for the autopilot.   2015 was my first sailing 
>> season with an autopilot and I used it a lot - great investment. 
>> 
>> I was unsure where I wanted to mount the control head so I did so 
>> temporarily on the coaming in the beckson access hatch, adjacent to the 
>> helm, at knee height more or less.  My season with the unit showed me that I 
>> could use the at like two locations - at the helm, (enclosure/pod on 
>> pedestal) OR beside the companionway where it can be operated from under the 
>> dodger, when motoring. Leaning toward the former, but still not clear in my 
>> mind
>> Thoughts, suggestions, alternatives?   Thanks.
>> 
>> Dave
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

Dave, I originally put my p70 on the right side of the companionway. BIG 
mistake. My reasoning for putting it there was that if i was to engage the 
autohelm, i was leaving the helm anyway. Didn't work out like that, it's just 
too far away and I had to go forward every time I made a course change or I 
would forget to disengage as I came up from below.
I have now relocated the p70 to the pedestal above the compass. I mounted it in 
a waterproof plastic enclosure from Hammond. Now, I use it as a multifunction 
display ( 6 data boxes) as well as Auto.

Mike Amirault
C&C33ii  Lovely Cruise
SMSC___

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Stus-List Welcome the Newbie!

[David via CnC-List]

CnCer's,

My good buddy Brian owns a 1980 32.   He is an old friend, a great guy and 
keeps her (the boat) on the west coast of Florida.

I thought some of you could answer his question about keel surgery...chopping 
off lead and recasting as a bulb to reduce his draft. Resources and DIY 
suggestions are welcome.

Thanks in advance.






Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message From: Brian Beaudry 
 Date:10/16/2015  3:08 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: David Risch  Subject: Get me on 
the list 

briangbeau...@gmail.com

--
Brian G. Beaudry
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Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

I've got my p70 on the right side of the companionway - otherwise I 
would have an empty hole, or would have to buy another multifunction 
display.  I've got an a75 at the wheel pedestal (thanks Fred!) and that 
can activate and tweak the pilot settings, so I can control it either 
place.  The setup works well.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-17 10:22 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List wrote:
Dave, I originally put my p70 on the right side of the companionway. 
BIG mistake. My reasoning for putting it there was that if i was to 
engage the autohelm, i was leaving the helm anyway. Didn't work out 
like that, it's just too far away and I had to go forward every time I 
made a course change or I would forget to disengage as I came up from 
below.
I have now relocated the p70 to the pedestal above the compass. I 
mounted it in a waterproof plastic enclosure from Hammond. Now, I use 
it as a multifunction display ( 6 data boxes) as well as Auto.

Mike Amirault
C&C33ii  Lovely Cruise
SMSC


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Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Graham brings up a good point: with the newer Raymarine MFDs, you can control a 
properly-networked autopilot right from the screen, which makes a nice backup 
to the control head.  You really NEED to have reliable control of the pilot at 
the wheel, in my opinion.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 17, 2015, at 8:49 AM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I've got my p70 on the right side of the companionway - otherwise I would 
> have an empty hole, or would have to buy another multifunction display.  I've 
> got an a75 at the wheel pedestal (thanks Fred!) and that can activate and 
> tweak the pilot settings, so I can control it either place.  The setup works 
> well.
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11

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Stus-List stainless polish

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

Woody's wax is phenomenal stuff, it practically erases oxidation.  It's an 
awesome non-skid deck wax too. 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA

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Re: Stus-List Welcome the Newbie!

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Hi Brian, welcome to the list!
I've got a 1980 32, hull #59. Great boat but I don't know anything about
reducing draft. I've done loads of other stuff to her though so if you ever
have any questions, post them to the list, I lurk all the time. Mine is A4
powered.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Sat, Oct 17, 2015 at 9:43 AM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> CnCer's,
>
> My good buddy Brian owns a 1980 32.   He is an old friend, a great guy and
> keeps her (the boat) on the west coast of Florida.
>
> I thought some of you could answer his question about keel
> surgery...chopping off lead and recasting as a bulb to reduce his draft.
> Resources and DIY suggestions are welcome.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Brian Beaudry
> Date:10/16/2015 3:08 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: David Risch
> Subject: Get me on the list
>
> briangbeau...@gmail.com
>
> --
> Brian G. Beaudry
>
> ___
>
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> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Welcome the Newbie!

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Have your friend checkout: 

http://marskeel.com/production/repair-modifications/draft-reductions/ 



Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "David via CnC-List"  
To: "Brian Beaudry" , "CNC CNC" 
 
Cc: "David"  
Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2015 9:43:32 AM 
Subject: Stus-List Welcome the Newbie! 

CnCer's, 

My good buddy Brian owns a 1980 32. He is an old friend, a great guy and keeps 
her (the boat) on the west coast of Florida. 

I thought some of you could answer his question about keel surgery...chopping 
off lead and recasting as a bulb to reduce his draft. Resources and DIY 
suggestions are welcome. 

Thanks in advance. 






Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone 


 Original message  
From: Brian Beaudry 
Date:10/16/2015 3:08 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: David Risch 
Subject: Get me on the list 

briangbeau...@gmail.com 

-- 
Brian G. Beaudry 

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Re: Stus-List Welcome the Newbie!

[jtsails via CnC-List]

Brian and David,
The best person to answer your question is probably Rick Brass. He has done 
this project on his 38. I looked into it for my 38 also, so I can get you 
pointed in the right direction. My keel (and most probably yours too) was 
originally cast by Mars Metals. They can and do cast bolt on bulbs for just 
this type of project. You tell them how much you want to reduce the draft and 
they will design and cast a bulb for you. Rick reduced his draft from 6’1” to 
5’3”. I don’t remember the exact numbers on how much weight he took off or 
added back, but the bulb is designed to retain the original stability and 
stiffness. Rick is very pleased with the result. I decided against doing it 
primarily because of the cost, lead is expensive these days! You can get more 
info from the Mars Metals website.
James
Delaney
1976 C&C 38
Oriental, NC

From: Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2015 11:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Stevan Plavsa 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Welcome the Newbie!

Hi Brian, welcome to the list! 
I've got a 1980 32, hull #59. Great boat but I don't know anything about 
reducing draft. I've done loads of other stuff to her though so if you ever 
have any questions, post them to the list, I lurk all the time. Mine is A4 
powered.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Sat, Oct 17, 2015 at 9:43 AM, David via CnC-List  
wrote:

  CnCer's,

  My good buddy Brian owns a 1980 32.   He is an old friend, a great guy and 
keeps her (the boat) on the west coast of Florida.   

  I thought some of you could answer his question about keel surgery...chopping 
off lead and recasting as a bulb to reduce his draft. Resources and DIY 
suggestions are welcome.  

  Thanks in advance.  






  Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone



   Original message 
  From: Brian Beaudry 
  Date:10/16/2015 3:08 PM (GMT-05:00) 
  To: David Risch 
  Subject: Get me on the list 

  briangbeau...@gmail.com


  -- 

  Brian G. Beaudry


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Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

SeaFoam like Modern Mystery Oil has been around many years, you should find it 
at any automotive store or department store automotive department like Advanced 
Auto, Auto Zone, Pep Boys. I buy the 16 oz cans, and keep a can aboard for when 
I might need it. 

https://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images;_ylt=A0LEV1GHgSJWle0AfRdXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTB0N2Noc21lBGNvbG8DYmYxBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDBHNlYwNwaXZz?p=seafoam+gas+treatment&fr=chr-greentree_ff&fr2=piv-web#id=0&iurl=http%3A%2F%2Fgalleryplus.ebayimg.com%2Fws%2Fweb%2F141078799313_1_0_1%2F1000x1000.jpg&action=click
 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "robert via CnC-List"  
To: "1 CnC List"  
Cc: "robert"  
Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2015 10:34:08 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives? 

Chuck et al: 

I have not heard of the productwhere do you buy it?..automotive store, 
marine store, hardware store? 

Rob Abbott 
AZURA 
C&C 32 - 84 
Halifax, N.S. 

On 2015-10-13 11:04 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote: 



Not sure why it works, but I saw improvement. I add an ounce of SEAFOAM to each 
gallon of fuel and one ounce to each quart of oil. I add it to the oil when I 
change it each Fall, and I add it to my boat's fuel tank just before I add 
fuel. The can is 16oz and I only add 5 oz to the engine and 5 oz to the fuel 
tank when I pour in a 5 gallon jerry can. The balance of an open can goes into 
my car's gas tank. It's very thin and seems to help starting and smooth 
running. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "robert via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "robert"  
Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2015 9:47:52 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives? 

Check this out: 

http://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-motor-treatment/ 



Rob Abbott 
AZURA 
C&C 32 - 84 
Halifax, N.S. 

On 2015-10-13 10:23 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote: 



I suspect most old car guys are familiar with Seafoam. Though I can't recall 
exactly what is in it. I've always used it as an additive for gasoline engines 
- boat fuel, mower fuel, oil mix for power tools and the outboard. I think of 
it as a better alternative to Stabil. 

Can't say as I've ever thought about it as Diesel additive, or added it to 
engine oil. Might be a good thing to check out. 

Rick Brass 
Washington, NC 

Sent from my iPad 

On Oct 13, 2015, at 20:43, Chuck S via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 




Hi Rick, 
A friend who works on cars and has a 32 foot sailboat for 25 years that looks 
better than new, suggested I use SeaFoam in both fuel and engine oil. It's 
inexpensive and seems to make starting much easier, so I've been using that for 
the last 8 years. I use Bio-Flo Jr when I top off the tank for winter. Any 
thoughts on SeaFoam? 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Rick Brass" < rickbr...@earthlink.net > 
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 8:52:03 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives? 



All diesel is made to the same set of standards. The red stuff just has a dye 
in it to indicate that the highway fuel tax has not been paid. 



When your engine was built, diesel fuel had 5000 parts per million of Sulphur 
content. The Sulphur was a significant factor in lubricating the injection 
pump, injectors, etc. 



In the mid to late 90s, in anticipation of the Tier 2 emissions standards, Low 
Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content was reduced to 500 PPM, and 
lubricity additives were incorporated in the fuel. 



In the middle of the last decade, in anticipation of Tier 3 emission standards, 
Ultra Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content on current fuel is 
15 PPM. A new Tier 3 engine is designed to run on ULS fuel, just like a new gas 
engine is designed for ethanol. 



Yanmar, Cummins, and Perkins (the 3 brands of diesels I used to teach 
technicians about) all recommend that you add a lubricity additive to your fuel 
if your engine was built before Tier 3 and ULS diesel became the norm. For our 
size engines that means about 2010 (1 year later in Canada). The service 
bulletins from Yanmar and Cummins (which I unfortunately lost when the laptop’s 
hard drive went up in smoke) both specifically recommend the additive from 
Stanadyne. 



Even though my Universal M35B is a Tier 3 version, I still add Standyne 
lubricity additive (although I do occasional use a product from Lucas). It 
can’t hurt. 



I also put BioBor JR in the fuel as an algaecide and try to keep my tank full 
during winter storage. As Josh said, the nasties live in the water in the tank 
and eat the diesel (don’t get me started on bio-diesel). An algaecide and 
reducing the chances of condensation in the tank are good policy for avoiding 
fuel filter problems. 



I’ve used about 2 tanks of fuel this yea

Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?

[allen via CnC-List]

Fred,

How new is newer?  I have an E120.

Allen Miles
Septima
Hampton, VA


From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2015 9:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?


Graham brings up a good point: with the newer Raymarine MFDs, you can control a 
properly-networked autopilot right from the screen, which makes a nice backup 
to the control head.  You really NEED to have reliable control of the pilot at 
the wheel, in my opinion.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


  On Oct 17, 2015, at 8:49 AM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
 wrote:


  I've got my p70 on the right side of the companionway - otherwise I would 
have an empty hole, or would have to buy another multifunction display.  I've 
got an a75 at the wheel pedestal (thanks Fred!) and that can activate and tweak 
the pilot settings, so I can control it either place.  The setup works well.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11






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Stus-List Sale Tools

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Hi, anyone ever buy anything from sale-tools.com?
http://www.sale-tools.com/categories/Marine-Electronics/Fishfinders%7B47%7DChartplotters/

Their prices on marine electronics are unbelievable (literally). Seems
fishy but I figured it's worth asking. Some of their stuff is older so it
makes sense that it would be cheap (ST60 three pack for ~700 etc).

Thoughts?

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Midland
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Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I looked at the a-series and e-series MFDs at the boat show and really
liked the integration of chartplotter, radar display, autopilot control,
and instrument display all in one package and on one screen.  I'd encourage
you to keep the autopilot control at the  helm...or at least within arms
reach.  The binnacle seems to be the best choice.  In my case I already
have a chartplotter with no radar indication.  Adding a control head would
make things cumbersome and cluttered. So a MFD would really ensure a
powerful,  clean and useful setup.  I'm not such a fan of the nav-pods
despite how nice they look since they envelope 2 nice handholds created by
the binnacle.  Instead, a 5.7" or 7" MFD should fit in a standard 9" Edson
binnacle nicely.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Oct 17, 2015 6:57 AM, "Dave Syer via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> winter project 32a:  upgrade electronics  ('85 c&c33ii)
>
> Am removing the vintage B&G hunter depth and speed instruments, replacing
> with raymarine p70, i70.  both are multifunction displays, and one - the
> p70, is the control head for the autopilot.   2015 was my first sailing
> season with an autopilot and I used it a lot - great investment.
>
> I was unsure where I wanted to mount the control head so I did so
> temporarily on the coaming in the beckson access hatch, adjacent to the
> helm, at knee height more or less.  My season with the unit showed me that
> I could use the at like two locations - at the helm, (enclosure/pod
> on pedestal) OR beside the companionway where it can be operated from under
> the dodger, when motoring. Leaning toward the former, but still not clear
> in my mind
> Thoughts, suggestions, alternatives?   Thanks.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
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Stus-List Subject: Re: Placement of autopilot control head?

[Dave via CnC-List]

Thanks guys - this echoes my inclination (helm) but leaves me with some holes 
by the companionway where the depth instrument currently resides.  I actually 
have a small Hoffman enclosure to install the p70 at the helm, but hesitated.  
My additional thinking had Been to use an iPad  or tablet wirelessly at the 
helm as chartplotter  and control the pilot (hopefully) with an app or 
chartplotter plugin that speaks nmea 2000.  Was aware the raymarine plotters 
spoke autopilot to some degree, but I kinda choke on buying a dedicated 
chartplotter (plus new crash bar, pod) when I could be using tablets, 
upgrading cheaply, etc. 

Is anybody successfully controlling their p70 remotely via a chartplotter or 
app?  In theory it should be quite possible.

Dave.  




Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2015 10:49:38 -0300
From: Graham Collins 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?

I've got my p70 on the right side of the companionway - otherwise I 
would have an empty hole, or would have to buy another multifunction 
display.  I've got an a75 at the wheel pedestal (thanks Fred!) and that 
can activate and tweak the pilot settings, so I can control it either 
place.  The setup works well.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

> On 2015-10-17 10:22 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List wrote:
> Dave, I originally put my p70 on the right side of the companionway. 
> BIG mistake
> I have now relocated the p70 to the pedestal above the compass. I 
> mounted it in a waterproof plastic enclosure from Hammond. Now, I use 
> it as a multifunction display ( 6 data boxes) as well as Auto.
> Mike Amirault
> C&C33ii  Lovely Cruise
> SMSC

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Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I've just had a summer of use out of my e7D and am very pleased with it. I 
especially like the fact that I can access it via my iPad.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Oct 17, 2015, at 14:24, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I looked at the a-series and e-series MFDs at the boat show and really liked 
> the integration of chartplotter, radar display, autopilot control, and 
> instrument display all in one package and on one screen.  I'd encourage you 
> to keep the autopilot control at the  helm...or at least within arms reach.  
> The binnacle seems to be the best choice.  In my case I already have a 
> chartplotter with no radar indication.  Adding a control head would make 
> things cumbersome and cluttered. So a MFD would really ensure a powerful,  
> clean and useful setup.  I'm not such a fan of the nav-pods despite how nice 
> they look since they envelope 2 nice handholds created by the binnacle.  
> Instead, a 5.7" or 7" MFD should fit in a standard 9" Edson binnacle nicely.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
>> On Oct 17, 2015 6:57 AM, "Dave Syer via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> winter project 32a:  upgrade electronics  ('85 c&c33ii)
>> 
>> Am removing the vintage B&G hunter depth and speed instruments, replacing 
>> with raymarine p70, i70.  both are multifunction displays, and one - the 
>> p70, is the control head for the autopilot.   2015 was my first sailing 
>> season with an autopilot and I used it a lot - great investment. 
>> 
>> I was unsure where I wanted to mount the control head so I did so 
>> temporarily on the coaming in the beckson access hatch, adjacent to the 
>> helm, at knee height more or less.  My season with the unit showed me that I 
>> could use the at like two locations - at the helm, (enclosure/pod on 
>> pedestal) OR beside the companionway where it can be operated from under the 
>> dodger, when motoring. Leaning toward the former, but still not clear in my 
>> mind
>> Thoughts, suggestions, alternatives?   Thanks.
>> 
>> Dave
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Recycling old dodger

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

The stainless dodger bows are 79" across, and here are some photographs:

https://goo.gl/photos/Rpo3E8DA25y8vNYf7

Available to a good home if any use to anyone.  All stitching needs to be
replaced, but the cloth is not bad and it's a fair template to base a new
one one.

Thanks,

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

On Tue, Oct 13, 2015 at 4:54 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Tim,
>
> Post the width of the bow as a start.  I don't need it but I recycled one
> off a Pearson 365 for my aft Bimini.  Creatively mounted it on the stern
> pulpit to get the right height.
>
> Dennis C.
> On Oct 13, 2015 3:47 PM, "Tim Goodyear via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I replaced the dodger on my 35-3 earlier this year with a different
>> shaped version and now have the old bows sitting in my garden.  Does anyone
>> know if they would be useful to anyone rather than throwing them away?  I
>> have the old dodger too - the cloth is OK'ish, but *all* the stitching
>> disintegrated at the same time.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Tim
>> Soon to be an ex-C&C owner (I hope you'll still let me lurk)
>> Branford, CT
>>
>> ___
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Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?

[Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List]

I completely re-did the electronics on our C&C 33 this spring, All Raymarine 
and seatalkng networked. Have an a95 MFD at the helm on a RAM mount, I used the 
i50 i60 instruments and an EV-100 autohelm. If i were to do it again I'd likely 
use the same set-up, works well for me. The a95 displays all the info from all 
the instruments and works VERY well for controlling the autohelm from the helm. 
The autohelm display is on the bulkhead (starboard side) and I use those 
controls to tack when singlehanding.

Sent, miraculously through cyberspace, 
from my iPad!
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Re: Stus-List Sale Tools

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

I bought the ST60 wind unit direct from Raymarine *at the wholesale price
West Marine pays* for the cost of the whole package. Certainly seems fishy.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 17 October 2015 at 10:47, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi, anyone ever buy anything from sale-tools.com?
>
> http://www.sale-tools.com/categories/Marine-Electronics/Fishfinders%7B47%7DChartplotters/
>
> Their prices on marine electronics are unbelievable (literally). Seems
> fishy but I figured it's worth asking. Some of their stuff is older so it
> makes sense that it would be cheap (ST60 three pack for ~700 etc).
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Midland
>
>
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Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Helm definitely.   Then splurge and get the wordless remote.  One of the Bert 
investments I've made.  Nothing like heading up to the foredeck while under 
power to get some blessed relief from the noise of the iron sail!

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


> On Oct 17, 2015, at 9:00 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Dave, I originally put my p70 on the right side of the companionway. BIG 
> mistake. My reasoning for putting it there was that if i was to engage the 
> autohelm, i was leaving the helm anyway. Didn't work out like that, it's just 
> too far away and I had to go forward every time I made a course change or I 
> would forget to disengage as I came up from below.
> I have now relocated the p70 to the pedestal above the compass. I mounted it 
> in a waterproof plastic enclosure from Hammond. Now, I use it as a 
> multifunction display ( 6 data boxes) as well as Auto.
> 
> Mike Amirault
> C&C33ii  Lovely Cruise
> SMSC
> -- next part --

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Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Allen — by newer, I mean the e series, the c Series, the a Series and the eS 
Series.  Your "Classic E” MFD doesn’t have the autopilot functionality that the 
newer ones have.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 17, 2015, at 12:45 PM, allen via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Fred,
>  
> How new is newer?  I have an E120.
>  
> Allen Miles
> Septima
> Hampton, VA
> 
> From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
> Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2015 9:54 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Frederick G Street 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?
> 
> Graham brings up a good point: with the newer Raymarine MFDs, you can control 
> a properly-networked autopilot right from the screen, which makes a nice 
> backup to the control head.  You really NEED to have reliable control of the 
> pilot at the wheel, in my opinion.
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

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Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I responded earlier about the MFDs before considering what someone else
said about single handing and solo tacking.  You should ensure that you can
reach an autopilot control from in front of the wheel (not through the
wheel).  With the components you already have it sounds like your temporary
install location might have been just about perfect.  Mine is low on the
port foot well wall, centered fore and aft on the wheel which makes it
equally accessible from in front or from behind the wheel.  I never
considered what a good compromise its location is.

Josh
On Oct 17, 2015 6:57 AM, "Dave Syer via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> winter project 32a:  upgrade electronics  ('85 c&c33ii)
>
> Am removing the vintage B&G hunter depth and speed instruments, replacing
> with raymarine p70, i70.  both are multifunction displays, and one - the
> p70, is the control head for the autopilot.   2015 was my first sailing
> season with an autopilot and I used it a lot - great investment.
>
> I was unsure where I wanted to mount the control head so I did so
> temporarily on the coaming in the beckson access hatch, adjacent to the
> helm, at knee height more or less.  My season with the unit showed me that
> I could use the at like two locations - at the helm, (enclosure/pod
> on pedestal) OR beside the companionway where it can be operated from under
> the dodger, when motoring. Leaning toward the former, but still not clear
> in my mind
> Thoughts, suggestions, alternatives?   Thanks.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Welcome the Newbie!

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

James is correct. Back in 2004 I reduced my draft from 6’1” to 5’3” using a 
Mars Metals torpedo bulb. My goal was to have a boat suitable to our shallow NC 
sounds, and for eventual cruising in the Bahamas and Keys.

 

I had to tell Mars how short we were making the keel, and how much the lead 
removed weighed. IIRC, we removed 800 pounds and they sent back a bulb weighing 
1150 to retain the proper righting moment. Cost of the bulb was a bit over 
$3200 including shipping. But as James said, lead was relatively cheap back 
then, and the bulb was shipped to North Carolina on the back of a truckload of 
keels going to Benneteau in South Carolina. All up, with labor to cut off the 
keel (using a rented chain saw, but a Sawzall would have worked too), drill the 
½” holes through the keel that hold the bulb to the keel, and assemble and fair 
the bulb (I painted it myself as part of a bottom job)$3800. I wouldn’t be 
surprised that it might be twice that now.

 

The cut off lead has considerable value now, which can offset some of the 
expense. Back then I couldn’t get a scrap yard to pick up the 800 pound chunk, 
and had no way to get it 50 miles to the recycler, so I donated it to someone 
who recast it for ballast in a wooden boat he was building. These days getting 
the lead picked up is not a problem.

 

Mars made most of the keels for our boats, so it probably won’t be necessary to 
send a tracing of the keel profile to Mars. But they can walk you through the 
process and tell you what it would cost.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of jtsails via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2015 12:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: jtsails 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Welcome the Newbie!

 

Brian and David,

The best person to answer your question is probably Rick Brass. He has done 
this project on his 38. I looked into it for my 38 also, so I can get you 
pointed in the right direction. My keel (and most probably yours too) was 
originally cast by Mars Metals. They can and do cast bolt on bulbs for just 
this type of project. You tell them how much you want to reduce the draft and 
they will design and cast a bulb for you. Rick reduced his draft from 6’1” to 
5’3”. I don’t remember the exact numbers on how much weight he took off or 
added back, but the bulb is designed to retain the original stability and 
stiffness. Rick is very pleased with the result. I decided against doing it 
primarily because of the cost, lead is expensive these days! You can get more 
info from the Mars Metals website.

James

Delaney

1976 C&C 38

Oriental, NC

 

From: Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List   

Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2015 11:54 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Stevan Plavsa   

Subject: Re: Stus-List Welcome the Newbie!

 

Hi Brian, welcome to the list! 

I've got a 1980 32, hull #59. Great boat but I don't know anything about 
reducing draft. I've done loads of other stuff to her though so if you ever 
have any questions, post them to the list, I lurk all the time. Mine is A4 
powered.

 

Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto

 

 

On Sat, Oct 17, 2015 at 9:43 AM, David via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

CnCer's,

 

My good buddy Brian owns a 1980 32.   He is an old friend, a great guy and 
keeps her (the boat) on the west coast of Florida.   

 

I thought some of you could answer his question about keel surgery...chopping 
off lead and recasting as a bulb to reduce his draft. Resources and DIY 
suggestions are welcome.  

 

Thanks in advance.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

 

 Original message 

From: Brian Beaudry 

Date:10/16/2015 3:08 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: David Risch 

Subject: Get me on the list 

 

briangbeau...@gmail.com  



-- 

Brian G. Beaudry


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  _  

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Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?

[allen via CnC-List]

Thanks Fred.  I never considered my E120  a classic, but technology moves on.  

My control head is on the port side cockpit wall just forward of the propane 
locker where  I can see the readout and set the course easily.

Allen


From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2015 5:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?


Allen — by newer, I mean the e series, the c Series, the a Series and the eS 
Series.  Your "Classic E” MFD doesn’t have the autopilot functionality that the 
newer ones have. 


— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


  On Oct 17, 2015, at 12:45 PM, allen via CnC-List  
wrote:


  Fred,

  How new is newer?  I have an E120.

  Allen Miles
  Septima
  Hampton, VA


  From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List
  Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2015 9:54 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Frederick G Street
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?


  Graham brings up a good point: with the newer Raymarine MFDs, you can control 
a properly-networked autopilot right from the screen, which makes a nice backup 
to the control head.  You really NEED to have reliable control of the pilot at 
the wheel, in my opinion.


  Fred Street -- Minneapolis
  S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(







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Stus-List Solar Bimini - Frame Connector Source

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Looking to build a solar bimini (rigid, no canvas) for Ox, a 1976 33-1.
Today I bought a perfectly dimensioned 285W solar panel.

https://jacksonville.craigslist.org/ele/5238729049.html

I need a support structure and will probably source some 1" stainless
tubing from Speedy Metals:

http://www.speedymetals.com/c-8276-round-tube.aspx?thickness=1

Not sure where best to find the various stainless connectors, i.e. jaws,
eyes.

SailRite seems like a possibility but I'm wondering if there's anything
better. (I googled a bit) :-)

Thanks in advance,

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
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Re: Stus-List Recycling old dodger

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Tim



We might be interested in giving these a good home.  Can you please advise the 
vertical dimension from the deck fitting to the peak of the bow?  Will measure 
ours tomorrow to see what will fit





John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2015 3:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tim Goodyear
Subject: Re: Stus-List Recycling old dodger



The stainless dodger bows are 79" across, and here are some photographs:



https://goo.gl/photos/Rpo3E8DA25y8vNYf7



Available to a good home if any use to anyone.  All stitching needs to be 
replaced, but the cloth is not bad and it's a fair template to base a new one 
one.



Thanks,



Tim

Mojito

C&C 35-3

Branford, CT



On Tue, Oct 13, 2015 at 4:54 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

Tim,

Post the width of the bow as a start.  I don't need it but I recycled one off a 
Pearson 365 for my aft Bimini.  Creatively mounted it on the stern pulpit to 
get the right height.

Dennis C.

On Oct 13, 2015 3:47 PM, "Tim Goodyear via CnC-List"  
wrote:

I replaced the dodger on my 35-3 earlier this year with a different shaped 
version and now have the old bows sitting in my garden.  Does anyone know if 
they would be useful to anyone rather than throwing them away?  I have the old 
dodger too - the cloth is OK'ish, but *all* the stitching disintegrated at the 
same time.



Thanks,



Tim

Soon to be an ex-C&C owner (I hope you'll still let me lurk)

Branford, CT



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