Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Richard,

 

I broke mine about 8 years ago.  South Shore had the part in stock.  My boom
has a hexagon shape to it.   I realize not all booms are the same.  There
were a variety of masts/booms used over the years.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

"Midnight Mistress"

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard
N. Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2015 2:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck

 

I went to the boat to check on things and while standing on the frozen dock
I sensed that something wasn't right but nothing seemed out of the ordinary
until it dawned on me that the boom was laying on the top of the cabin; the
outboard end was hanging by the topping lift but the inboard end was laying
at the base of the mast! I looked at it and found that the black metal part
that goes in the goose neck was broken into pieces and the broken part of
the "ring" was still in the goose neck with the bolt intactI can only
assume that it somehow froze and snapped? We have had the same cold spell as
the rest of the country, (single digits, etc.); and some windy nights, but I
have no idea how a one inch wide and half inch thick piece of metal just
"broke"; nonetheless, can this be repaired? welded? or should I look for a
new one? The boom is original to the boat; 1985 37 CB; any ideas? Thanks  

 

Richard

1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River

 

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

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Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
Broke mine a few years back during a
  race. I brought the pieces to a local machine shop so they could
  use them as a guide. They built up a blob of new aluminum where
  the tab broke off, and then machined it to shape and drilled the
  hole in the right position. It has held for about 6 years now.
  While I was waiting to find out of they could fix it, I also
  contacted South Shore, who looked through some boxes and found a
  brand new one that had still not even been cleaned or drilled
  after being cast. I bought that as a spare for about $100. The
  machine shop charged me $50, but I think that was a gift. I'm
  thinking it should have been more like $200.
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 1/11/2015 2:17 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List wrote:


I went to the boat to check on things and while standing on
  the frozen dock I sensed that something wasn't right but
  nothing seemed out of the ordinary until it dawned on me that
  the boom was laying on the top of the cabin; the outboard end
  was hanging by the topping lift but the inboard end was laying
  at the base of the mast! I looked at it and found that the
  black metal part that goes in the goose neck was broken into
  pieces and the broken part of the "ring" was still in the
  goose neck with the bolt intactI can only assume that it
  somehow froze and snapped? We have had the same cold spell as
  the rest of the country, (single digits, etc.); and some windy
  nights, but I have no idea how a one inch wide and half inch
  thick piece of metal just "broke"; nonetheless, can this be
  repaired? welded? or should I look for a new one? The boom is
  original to the boat; 1985 37 CB; any ideas? Thanks  

 

Richard
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River

 
Richard N. Bush
  2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
  Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
  502-584-7255
  
 

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Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

We had garhauer make a new one in stainless when we put the solid vang on  
Not a fan of cast aluminum for the reason you saw

Sent from my iPad

On Jan 11, 2015, at 2:17 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I went to the boat to check on things and while standing on the frozen dock I 
sensed that something wasn't right but nothing seemed out of the ordinary until 
it dawned on me that the boom was laying on the top of the cabin; the outboard 
end was hanging by the topping lift but the inboard end was laying at the base 
of the mast! I looked at it and found that the black metal part that goes in 
the goose neck was broken into pieces and the broken part of the "ring" was 
still in the goose neck with the bolt intactI can only assume that it 
somehow froze and snapped? We have had the same cold spell as the rest of the 
country, (single digits, etc.); and some windy nights, but I have no idea how a 
one inch wide and half inch thick piece of metal just "broke"; nonetheless, can 
this be repaired? welded? or should I look for a new one? The boom is original 
to the boat; 1985 37 CB; any ideas? Thanks

Richard
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255

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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Ok well, I guess it is adequate then.  I just tend to see 40 hp engines in most 
40 footers.

Maybe not be the ideal and will be a bargaining point if it comes to that.

Bigger is better in this instance I think...

Thanks for the insights guys!

Danny


From my Android phone

 Original message 
From: allen via CnC-List  
Date: 01/10/2015  3:53 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Robert Abbott ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size 
 
Our 30-2 has 20 hp Universal and easily reaches hull speed in light to calm 
conditions.  Originally it was powered by an 18 hp Universal that netted 16.
 
Allen Miles
s/v Septima

From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2015 3:41 PM
To: Danny Haughey ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size

Danny:
Some say if you have one hp per foot of boat, you are adequately powered for a 
sailboat.  A 35 hp diesel in a 37+ seems adequate to me.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2015/01/10 12:30 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:
Hi Guys,
 
I'm eyeing a 1989 37+  but it has a 35 HP universal diesel. That, seems 
kind of small for a nearly 40' boat.  doesn't it?
 
Danny



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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I don't think you'll earn any bargaining points.  Once you drive it you'll
understand.  The tip of Sea Hawk's transom sits 6-9 inches above the water
when balance on her lines in the slip.  Under full power the tip of the
transom is submerged 2-3 inches.  This was the same experience on Blue
Pearl (37+) when we were looking to buy her.  I have never once said to
myself, "Boy if only I had a little more power."

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
 On Jan 11, 2015 7:55 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ok well, I guess it is adequate then.  I just tend to see 40 hp engines in
> most 40 footers.
>
> Maybe not be the ideal and will be a bargaining point if it comes to that.
>
> Bigger is better in this instance I think...
>
> Thanks for the insights guys!
>
> Danny
>
>
> From my Android phone
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: allen via CnC-List 
> Date: 01/10/2015 3:53 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: Robert Abbott ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size
>
>
> Our 30-2 has 20 hp Universal and easily reaches hull speed in light to
> calm conditions.  Originally it was powered by an 18 hp Universal that
> netted 16.
>
> Allen Miles
> s/v Septima
>
>  *From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Saturday, January 10, 2015 3:41 PM
> *To:* Danny Haughey  ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size
>
> Danny:
> Some say if you have one hp per foot of boat, you are adequately powered
> for a sailboat.  A 35 hp diesel in a 37+ seems adequate to me.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
> On 2015/01/10 12:30 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> I'm eyeing a 1989 37+  but it has a 35 HP universal diesel.  That, seems
> kind of small for a nearly 40' boat.  doesn't it?
>
> Danny
>
>
>
>  --
>
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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Our 37XL was re-powered a number of years ago.  We now have a 47 hp tubo
spinning an 18" dia three blade feathering prop.

We get no more useful performance that Edd or Josh get now with their 35 hp
engines.

"2400 RPMs, I can hit 7.2 knots ... pretty easily."  We do the same.

"Under full power the tip of the transom is submerged 2-3 inches."

We get that too.

Wide open at 3600 rpm we get about 8 knots and submerge the transom a bit
more than 2" to 3", probably 4" or 5".  And use a ton more fuel
in the process.  Not very useful.

Ken H.
C&C 37XL Salazar

On 11 January 2015 at 09:13, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I don't think you'll earn any bargaining points.  Once you drive it you'll
> understand.  The tip of Sea Hawk's transom sits 6-9 inches above the water
> when balance on her lines in the slip.  Under full power the tip of the
> transom is submerged 2-3 inches.  This was the same experience on Blue
> Pearl (37+) when we were looking to buy her.  I have never once said to
> myself, "Boy if only I had a little more power."
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>  On Jan 11, 2015 7:55 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Ok well, I guess it is adequate then.  I just tend to see 40 hp engines
>> in most 40 footers.
>>
>> Maybe not be the ideal and will be a bargaining point if it comes to that.
>>
>> Bigger is better in this instance I think...
>>
>> Thanks for the insights guys!
>>
>> Danny
>>
>>
>> From my Android phone
>>
>>
>>  Original message 
>> From: allen via CnC-List 
>> Date: 01/10/2015 3:53 PM (GMT-05:00)
>> To: Robert Abbott ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size
>>
>>
>> Our 30-2 has 20 hp Universal and easily reaches hull speed in light to
>> calm conditions.  Originally it was powered by an 18 hp Universal that
>> netted 16.
>>
>> Allen Miles
>> s/v Septima
>>
>>  *From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Saturday, January 10, 2015 3:41 PM
>> *To:* Danny Haughey  ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size
>>
>> Danny:
>> Some say if you have one hp per foot of boat, you are adequately powered
>> for a sailboat.  A 35 hp diesel in a 37+ seems adequate to me.
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>>
>> On 2015/01/10 12:30 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Hi Guys,
>>
>> I'm eyeing a 1989 37+  but it has a 35 HP universal diesel.  That, seems
>> kind of small for a nearly 40' boat.  doesn't it?
>>
>> Danny
>>
>>
>>
>>  --
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album.
>>
>> Please donate to the C&C Photo Album to keep this list free for all
>> subscribers.
>>
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>> page at:
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>>
>>
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>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

C&Cs are not big fat CatBenHuns. They do not need as much power.  With a big
engine you would need a variable pitch prop controllable from the helm or be
perpetually like a Corvette stuck in 2nd gear. I used to fly an airplane
that had a much bigger than standard engine and a fixed pitch prop. It
climbed like a bat out of hell - boating equivalent would be beating into
heavy seas - but in level flight it went no faster than the normal engine
and used a ton of gas.

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com  

 

Coquina C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2015 8:14 AM
To: DJ Hawk; C&C List
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size

 

I don't think you'll earn any bargaining points.  Once you drive it you'll
understand.  The tip of Sea Hawk's transom sits 6-9 inches above the water
when balance on her lines in the slip.  Under full power the tip of the
transom is submerged 2-3 inches.  This was the same experience on Blue Pearl
(37+) when we were looking to buy her.  I have never once said to myself,
"Boy if only I had a little more power."

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Jan 11, 2015 7:55 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Ok well, I guess it is adequate then.  I just tend to see 40 hp engines in
most 40 footers.

 

Maybe not be the ideal and will be a bargaining point if it comes to that.

 

Bigger is better in this instance I think...

 

Thanks for the insights guys!

 

Danny

 

 

>From my Android phone 


 Original message 
From: allen via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Date: 01/10/2015 3:53 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: Robert Abbott mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca> >,cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size 



Our 30-2 has 20 hp Universal and easily reaches hull speed in light to calm
conditions.  Originally it was powered by an 18 hp Universal that netted 16.

 

Allen Miles

s/v Septima

 

From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List   

Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2015 3:41 PM

To: Danny Haughey   ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  

Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size

 

Danny:
Some say if you have one hp per foot of boat, you are adequately powered for
a sailboat.  A 35 hp diesel in a 37+ seems adequate to me.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2015/01/10 12:30 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Guys,

 

I'm eyeing a 1989 37+  but it has a 35 HP universal diesel.  That, seems
kind of small for a nearly 40' boat.  doesn't it?

 

Danny

 

 

  _  

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Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

An unintended jibe broke mine. After talking to some welders, who said the cast 
metal was hard to work with, I had a local guy fabricate one out of stainless 
(all that about 15 years ago) - it still looks new.

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
  To: Richard N. Bush ;  
  Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2015 7:49 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck


  We had garhauer make a new one in stainless when we put the solid vang on 
 Not a fan of cast aluminum for the reason you saw

  Sent from my iPad

  On Jan 11, 2015, at 2:17 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I went to the boat to check on things and while standing on the frozen dock 
I sensed that something wasn't right but nothing seemed out of the ordinary 
until it dawned on me that the boom was laying on the top of the cabin; the 
outboard end was hanging by the topping lift but the inboard end was laying at 
the base of the mast! I looked at it and found that the black metal part that 
goes in the goose neck was broken into pieces and the broken part of the "ring" 
was still in the goose neck with the bolt intactI can only assume that it 
somehow froze and snapped? We have had the same cold spell as the rest of the 
country, (single digits, etc.); and some windy nights, but I have no idea how a 
one inch wide and half inch thick piece of metal just "broke"; nonetheless, can 
this be repaired? welded? or should I look for a new one? The boom is original 
to the boat; 1985 37 CB; any ideas? Thanks  


Richard
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

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Stus-List The stern squats at high speed

[TOM VINCENT via CnC-List]

I was wondering if anyone else has the same problem that I have with my 36' 
that has the 3 cylinder Yanmar 30 HP. While motoring if I increase the speed 
the stern starts squatting the faster I go. I top out at 6.5 knots of speed and 
the stern is way down. I have a martec 18'' folding prop and I do not know the 
pitch.
 
Tom Vincent
Frolic II 1979 36' C&C
 
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Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck

[John Russo via CnC-List]

Garhauer Marine fabricated a stainless goose neck for my 32 to work with a
solid vang. Very reasonable. Ask for Guido or Marc and send them your broken
goose neck for dimensions and mast shape.

 

John

 

Arpeggio

C&C 32

Norwalk CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard
N. Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2015 2:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck

 

I went to the boat to check on things and while standing on the frozen dock
I sensed that something wasn't right but nothing seemed out of the ordinary
until it dawned on me that the boom was laying on the top of the cabin; the
outboard end was hanging by the topping lift but the inboard end was laying
at the base of the mast! I looked at it and found that the black metal part
that goes in the goose neck was broken into pieces and the broken part of
the "ring" was still in the goose neck with the bolt intactI can only
assume that it somehow froze and snapped? We have had the same cold spell as
the rest of the country, (single digits, etc.); and some windy nights, but I
have no idea how a one inch wide and half inch thick piece of metal just
"broke"; nonetheless, can this be repaired? welded? or should I look for a
new one? The boom is original to the boat; 1985 37 CB; any ideas? Thanks  

 

Richard

1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River

 

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

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Re: Stus-List The stern squats at high speed

[PME via CnC-List]

Tom,

That’s hull speed.  Basically, your stern is in the trough of your bow wave.  
See the figures in the link below:


> http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/attachments/boat-design/5014d1137160350-displacement-hull-speed-calculation-rvaluepf.jpg
>  
> 



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

> On Jan 11, 2015, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2015 11:54:00 -0500
> From: TOM VINCENT mailto:tvince...@msn.com>>
> To: C&C Forum mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List The stern squats at high speed
> Message-ID:  >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> I was wondering if anyone else has the same problem that I have with my 36' 
> that has the 3 cylinder Yanmar 30 HP. While motoring if I increase the speed 
> the stern starts squatting the faster I go. I top out at 6.5 knots of speed 
> and the stern is way down. I have a martec 18'' folding prop and I do not 
> know the pitch.
> 
> Tom Vincent
> Frolic II 1979 36' C&C
> 
> 

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Stus-List The stern squats at high speed

[Joe at Zialater via CnC-List]

Hi Tom - I notice the same thing on my 30-1 - as I increase revs the stern
squats.  I have a two blade fixed prop on an Atomic 4.  I sometimes adjust
the throttle by looking over the stern rather than the speedo - kinda handy.
At high revs my exhaust is completely underwater while it is a few inches
above water at rest.  

I don't know if it is really a problem or just a matter of physics - my
power boat does the same thing, albeit  more drastically.  

Joe Boyle
Zia, 1975 30-1
Annapolis

Message: 5
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2015 11:54:00 -0500
From: TOM VINCENT 
To: C&C Forum 
Subject: Stus-List The stern squats at high speed
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

I was wondering if anyone else has the same problem that I have with my 36'
that has the 3 cylinder Yanmar 30 HP. While motoring if I increase the speed
the stern starts squatting the faster I go. I top out at 6.5 knots of speed
and the stern is way down. I have a martec 18'' folding prop and I do not
know the pitch.
 
Tom Vincent
Frolic II 1979 36' C&C
 
 


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Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck

[wwadjourn]

Ditto on Garhauer making mine out of stainless.  
Bill Walker
36

Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: "John Russo via CnC-List" 
To: "'Richard N. Bush'" , 
Subject: Stus-List Broken Goose neck
Date: Sun, Jan 11, 2015 11:54 AM

Garhauer Marine fabricated a stainless goose neck for my 32 to work with a
solid vang. Very reasonable. Ask for Guido or Marc and send them your broken
goose neck for dimensions and mast shape.



John



Arpeggio

C&C 32

Norwalk CT



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard
N. Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2015 2:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck



I went to the boat to check on things and while standing on the frozen dock
I sensed that something wasn't right but nothing seemed out of the ordinary
until it dawned on me that the boom was laying on the top of the cabin; the
outboard end was hanging by the topping lift but the inboard end was laying
at the base of the mast! I looked at it and found that the black metal part
that goes in the goose neck was broken into pieces and the broken part of
the "ring" was still in the goose neck with the bolt intactI can only
assume that it somehow froze and snapped? We have had the same cold spell as
the rest of the country, (single digits, etc.); and some windy nights, but I
have no idea how a one inch wide and half inch thick piece of metal just
"broke"; nonetheless, can this be repaired? welded? or should I look for a
new one? The boom is original to the boat; 1985 37 CB; any ideas? Thanks  



Richard

1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River



Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255



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Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

I have to agree.  We have plenty of power and the Universal is solid as a rock. 
 If it has anything under 3000-5000 hours and was well maintained, it should be 
just fine.  

If you get there, getting a full engine inspection by an experienced Yanmar 
mechanic, in addition to the general survey, would be prudent.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


>> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2015 09:45:44 -0400
> From: Ken Heaton 
> To: Josh Muckley , cnc-list
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Our 37XL was re-powered a number of years ago.  We now have a 47 hp tubo
> spinning an 18" dia three blade feathering prop.
> 
> We get no more useful performance that Edd or Josh get now with their 35 hp
> engines.
> 
> "2400 RPMs, I can hit 7.2 knots ... pretty easily."  We do the same.
> 
> "Under full power the tip of the transom is submerged 2-3 inches."
> 
> We get that too.
> 
> Wide open at 3600 rpm we get about 8 knots and submerge the transom a bit
> more than 2" to 3", probably 4" or 5".  And use a ton more fuel
> in the process.  Not very useful.
> 
> Ken H.
> C&C 37XL Salazar
> 
> On 11 January 2015 at 09:13, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
>> I don't think you'll earn any bargaining points.  Once you drive it you'll
>> understand.  The tip of Sea Hawk's transom sits 6-9 inches above the water
>> when balance on her lines in the slip.  Under full power the tip of the
>> transom is submerged 2-3 inches.  This was the same experience on Blue
>> Pearl (37+) when we were looking to buy her.  I have never once said to
>> myself, "Boy if only I had a little more power."
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> On Jan 11, 2015 7:55 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> -0001.html>
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2015 10:29:25 -0500
> From: "Joe Della Barba" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size
> Message-ID: <02d601d02db3$630481a0$290d84e0$@dellabarba.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> C&Cs are not big fat CatBenHuns. They do not need as much power.  With a big
> engine you would need a variable pitch prop controllable from the helm or be
> perpetually like a Corvette stuck in 2nd gear. I used to fly an airplane
> that had a much bigger than standard engine and a fixed pitch prop. It
> climbed like a bat out of hell - boating equivalent would be beating into
> heavy seas - but in level flight it went no faster than the normal engine
> and used a ton of gas.
> 
> Joe Della Barba
> 
> j...@dellabarba.com  
> 
> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2015 8:14 AM
> To: DJ Hawk; C&C List
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size
> 
> I don't think you'll earn any bargaining points.  Once you drive it you'll
> understand.  The tip of Sea Hawk's transom sits 6-9 inches above the water
> when balance on her lines in the slip.  Under full power the tip of the
> transom is submerged 2-3 inches.  This was the same experience on Blue Pearl
> (37+) when we were looking to buy her.  I have never once said to myself,
> "Boy if only I had a little more power."
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> On Jan 11, 2015 7:55 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List"   > wrote:
> 
> Ok well, I guess it is adequate then.  I just tend to see 40 hp engines in
> most 40 footers.
> 
> Maybe not be the ideal and will be a bargaining point if it comes to that.
> 
> Bigger is better in this instance I think...
> 
> Thanks for the insights guys!
> 
> Danny

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Stus-List Rudder rebuild

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi, 

The rudder on my boat has been repaired once by the previous owner but the job 
was not very good and now the other side of the rudder needs attention, it has 
partially delaminated, is wet, the shape has been afffected and its no longer 
symetrical and finally i question the profile. at this point, after many 
repairs and a compromised shape, it's time to do things right and i want it 
rebuilt completely.

My question, does anybody knows what type of profile was used for the 33mkii 
rudder.  is it a NACA profile, if yes which one exactly? I'm looking to build 
templates for the rebuild. 

Thanks

Bruno
Becassine, c&c 33mkii
new-richmond, Qc


Envoyé de mon iPad
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Re: Stus-List Rudder rebuild

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

I believe Bob Perry uses the NACA 0014 profile for rudders, if that helps.
You should also be able to get the original lines plans from the Maritime
Museum in Kingston. 


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 11 January 2015 at 10:25, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> The rudder on my boat has been repaired once by the previous owner but the
> job was not very good and now the other side of the rudder needs attention,
> it has partially delaminated, is wet, the shape has been afffected and its
> no longer symetrical and finally i question the profile. at this point,
> after many repairs and a compromised shape, it's time to do things right
> and i want it rebuilt completely.
>
> My question, does anybody knows what type of profile was used for the
> 33mkii rudder.  is it a NACA profile, if yes which one exactly? I'm looking
> to build templates for the rebuild.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bruno
> Becassine, c&c 33mkii
> new-richmond, Qc
>
>
> Envoyé de mon iPad
> ___
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 108, Issue 15

[Rhhulit via CnC-List]

; Danny:
>> Some say if you have one hp per foot of boat, you are adequately powered
>> for a sailboat.  A 35 hp diesel in a 37+ seems adequate to me.
>> 
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>> 
>> 
>> On 2015/01/10 12:30 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Guys,
>> 
>> I'm eyeing a 1989 37+  but it has a 35 HP universal diesel.  That, seems
>> kind of small for a nearly 40' boat.  doesn't it?
>> 
>> Danny
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
>> 
>> 
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150111/76a29618/attachment-0001.html>
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2015 09:45:44 -0400
> From: Ken Heaton 
> To: Josh Muckley , cnc-list
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Our 37XL was re-powered a number of years ago.  We now have a 47 hp tubo
> spinning an 18" dia three blade feathering prop.
> 
> We get no more useful performance that Edd or Josh get now with their 35 hp
> engines.
> 
> "2400 RPMs, I can hit 7.2 knots ... pretty easily."  We do the same.
> 
> "Under full power the tip of the transom is submerged 2-3 inches."
> 
> We get that too.
> 
> Wide open at 3600 rpm we get about 8 knots and submerge the transom a bit
> more than 2" to 3", probably 4" or 5".  And use a ton more fuel
> in the process.  Not very useful.
> 
> Ken H.
> C&C 37XL Salazar
> 
> On 11 January 2015 at 09:13, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
>> I don't think you'll earn any bargaining points.  Once you drive it you'll
>> understand.  The tip of Sea Hawk's transom sits 6-9 inches above the water
>> when balance on her lines in the slip.  Under full power the tip of the
>> transom is submerged 2-3 inches.  This was the same experience on Blue
>> Pearl (37+) when we were looking to buy her.  I have never once said to
>> myself, "Boy if only I had a little more power."
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> On Jan 11, 2015 7:55 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> Ok well, I guess it is adequate then.  I just tend to see 40 hp engines
>>> in most 40 footers.
>>> 
>>> Maybe not be the ideal and will be a bargaining point if it comes to that.
>>> 
>>> Bigger is better in this instance I think...
>>> 
>>> Thanks for the insights guys!
>>> 
>>> Danny
>>> 
>>> 
>>> From my Android phone
>>> 
>>> 
>>>  Original message 
>>> From: allen via CnC-List 
>>> Date: 01/10/2015 3:53 PM (GMT-05:00)
>>> To: Robert Abbott ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Our 30-2 has 20 hp Universal and easily reaches hull speed in light to
>>> calm conditions.  Originally it was powered by an 18 hp Universal that
>>> netted 16.
>>> 
>>> Allen Miles
>>> s/v Septima
>>> 
>>> *From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
>>> *Sent:* Saturday, January 10, 2015 3:41 PM
>>> *To:* Danny Haughey  ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size
>>> 
>>> Danny:
>>> Some say if you have

Re: Stus-List Rudder rebuild

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Take a look a these pics from my rudder rebuild.  37+ but it might give you
some things to consider.

https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA/edit
On Jan 11, 2015 1:26 PM, "Bruno Lachance via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> The rudder on my boat has been repaired once by the previous owner but the
> job was not very good and now the other side of the rudder needs attention,
> it has partially delaminated, is wet, the shape has been afffected and its
> no longer symetrical and finally i question the profile. at this point,
> after many repairs and a compromised shape, it's time to do things right
> and i want it rebuilt completely.
>
> My question, does anybody knows what type of profile was used for the
> 33mkii rudder.  is it a NACA profile, if yes which one exactly? I'm looking
> to build templates for the rebuild.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bruno
> Becassine, c&c 33mkii
> new-richmond, Qc
>
>
> Envoyé de mon iPad
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Rudder rebuild

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Jim, what's the better way to communicate with the museum to have access to 
that kind of info? I beleive a lister has a contact there?? And that We could 
buy copies of our boat drawings.

the 0014 naca profiles seems a good compromise for the boat. Smaller boats seem 
to go a bit thinner like 0012. Hard to figure...

Thanks, 

Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 2015-01-11 à 13:29, Jim Watts  a écrit :
> 
> I believe Bob Perry uses the NACA 0014 profile for rudders, if that helps. 
> You should also be able to get the original lines plans from the Maritime 
> Museum in Kingston. 
> 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
>> On 11 January 2015 at 10:25, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hi,
>> 
>> The rudder on my boat has been repaired once by the previous owner but the 
>> job was not very good and now the other side of the rudder needs attention, 
>> it has partially delaminated, is wet, the shape has been afffected and its 
>> no longer symetrical and finally i question the profile. at this point, 
>> after many repairs and a compromised shape, it's time to do things right and 
>> i want it rebuilt completely.
>> 
>> My question, does anybody knows what type of profile was used for the 33mkii 
>> rudder.  is it a NACA profile, if yes which one exactly? I'm looking to 
>> build templates for the rebuild.
>> 
>> Thanks
>> 
>> Bruno
>> Becassine, c&c 33mkii
>> new-richmond, Qc
>> 
>> 
>> Envoyé de mon iPad
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album.
>> 
>> Please donate to the C&C Photo Album to keep this list free for all 
>> subscribers.
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>> page at:
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Rudder rebuild

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

Bruno, simple email worked well for me and they were very willing to look 
things up in their files specific to my boat; 

> On Jan 11, 2015, at 1:46 PM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Jim, what's the better way to communicate with the museum to have access to 
> that kind of info? I beleive a lister has a contact there?? And that We could 
> buy copies of our boat drawings.
> 
> the 0014 naca profiles seems a good compromise for the boat. Smaller boats 
> seem to go a bit thinner like 0012. Hard to figure...
> 
> Thanks, 
> 
> Envoyé de mon iPad
> 
>> Le 2015-01-11 à 13:29, Jim Watts  a écrit :
>> 
>> I believe Bob Perry uses the NACA 0014 profile for rudders, if that helps. 
>> You should also be able to get the original lines plans from the Maritime 
>> Museum in Kingston. 
>> 
>> 
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C&C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>> 
>>> On 11 January 2015 at 10:25, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Hi,
>>> 
>>> The rudder on my boat has been repaired once by the previous owner but the 
>>> job was not very good and now the other side of the rudder needs attention, 
>>> it has partially delaminated, is wet, the shape has been afffected and its 
>>> no longer symetrical and finally i question the profile. at this point, 
>>> after many repairs and a compromised shape, it's time to do things right 
>>> and i want it rebuilt completely.
>>> 
>>> My question, does anybody knows what type of profile was used for the 
>>> 33mkii rudder.  is it a NACA profile, if yes which one exactly? I'm looking 
>>> to build templates for the rebuild.
>>> 
>>> Thanks
>>> 
>>> Bruno
>>> Becassine, c&c 33mkii
>>> new-richmond, Qc
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Envoyé de mon iPad
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album.
>>> 
>>> Please donate to the C&C Photo Album to keep this list free for all 
>>> subscribers.
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>>> page at:
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>>> 
>> 
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Re: Stus-List The stern squats at high speed

[Curtis via CnC-List]

Hi Tom - I 1981 30-1 675M81E, My boat has the Mertec 18" R 2 blade folding
prop. It squats under 3/4 throttle as well. While it will not hurt a thing,
you will get better traction and economy if you move some ballast forward
The boat will have more waterline and moving more efficiently threw the
water.Sometime it don't take much, With my boat I put a secondary water
tank under the v-birth "12 gallon".
Now I get her up to speed and back down to around 2200 rpm's and she
catches hull speed.Well, When she has a clean dottom.

Peace



On Sun, Jan 11, 2015 at 12:13 PM, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Tom - I notice the same thing on my 30-1 - as I increase revs the stern
> squats.  I have a two blade fixed prop on an Atomic 4.  I sometimes adjust
> the throttle by looking over the stern rather than the speedo - kinda
> handy.
> At high revs my exhaust is completely underwater while it is a few inches
> above water at rest.
>
> I don't know if it is really a problem or just a matter of physics - my
> power boat does the same thing, albeit  more drastically.
>
> Joe Boyle
> Zia, 1975 30-1
> Annapolis
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2015 11:54:00 -0500
> From: TOM VINCENT 
> To: C&C Forum 
> Subject: Stus-List The stern squats at high speed
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> I was wondering if anyone else has the same problem that I have with my 36'
> that has the 3 cylinder Yanmar 30 HP. While motoring if I increase the
> speed
> the stern starts squatting the faster I go. I top out at 6.5 knots of speed
> and the stern is way down. I have a martec 18'' folding prop and I do not
> know the pitch.
>
> Tom Vincent
> Frolic II 1979 36' C&C
>
>
>
>
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*Best regards,*


*Curtis McDaniel, *


*C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
Discover.  -Mark Twain

*cpt.b...@gmail.com *


* __/) *

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Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

Thanks to all for the information, I will probably call Garhauer tomorrow; I 
still do not understand what would cause the metal to break; there was no 
stress or pull on it, certainly no gybing going on; could just cold weather 
cause such a break?
 

Richard
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River; Mile 596;


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 
 
-Original Message-
From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
To: Paul Fountain ; cnc-list 
Sent: Sun, Jan 11, 2015 11:01 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck



An unintended jibe broke mine. After talking to some welders, who said the cast 
metal was hard to work with, I had a local guy fabricate one out of stainless 
(all that about 15 years ago) - it still looks new.
 
Gary
  
- Original Message - 
  
From:   Paul   Fountain via CnC-List 
  
To: Richard N. Bush ; " 
  
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2015 7:49   AM
  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken Goose   neck
  


  
We had garhauer make a new one in stainless when we put the solid vang on   
 Not a fan of cast aluminum for the reason you saw

Sent from my   iPad
  

On Jan 11, 2015, at 2:17 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
   wrote:


  


I went to the boat to check on things and while standing on the frozen dock 
I sensed that something wasn't right but nothing seemed out of the ordinary 
until it dawned on me that the boom was laying on the top of the cabin; the 
outboard end was hanging by the topping lift but the inboard end was laying 
at the base of the mast! I looked at it and found that the black metal part 
that goes in the goose neck was broken into pieces and the broken part of 
the "ring" was still in the goose neck with the bolt intactI can only 
assume that it somehow froze and snapped? We have had the same cold spell 
as the rest of the country, (single digits, etc.); and some windy nights, 
but I have no idea how a one inch wide and half inch thick piece of metal 
just "broke"; nonetheless, can this be repaired? welded? or should I look 
for a new one? The boom is original to the boat; 1985 37 CB; any ideas? 
Thanks  


 


Richard

1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River


 

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

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Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

There could be a failure mechanism where water seeps into cracks and pores
in the metal.  When it freezes the metal becomes more brittle, combined
with the expansion of ice  Just guessing.
On Jan 11, 2015 3:10 PM, "Richard N. Bush via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks to all for the information, I will probably call Garhauer tomorrow;
> I still do not understand what would cause the metal to break; there was no
> stress or pull on it, certainly no gybing going on; could just cold weather
> cause such a break?
>
>  Richard
> 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River; Mile 596;
>
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
> To: Paul Fountain ; cnc-list 
> Sent: Sun, Jan 11, 2015 11:01 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck
>
>  An unintended jibe broke mine. After talking to some welders, who said
> the cast metal was hard to work with, I had a local guy fabricate one out
> of stainless (all that about 15 years ago) - it still looks new.
>
> Gary
>
> - Original Message -
> *From:* Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
> *To:* Richard N. Bush  ; "
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 11, 2015 7:49 AM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck
>
>  We had garhauer make a new one in stainless when we put the solid vang
> on  Not a fan of cast aluminum for the reason you saw
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jan 11, 2015, at 2:17 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>   I went to the boat to check on things and while standing on the frozen
> dock I sensed that something wasn't right but nothing seemed out of the
> ordinary until it dawned on me that the boom was laying on the top of the
> cabin; the outboard end was hanging by the topping lift but the inboard end
> was laying at the base of the mast! I looked at it and found that the black
> metal part that goes in the goose neck was broken into pieces and the
> broken part of the "ring" was still in the goose neck with the bolt
> intactI can only assume that it somehow froze and snapped? We have had
> the same cold spell as the rest of the country, (single digits, etc.); and
> some windy nights, but I have no idea how a one inch wide and half inch
> thick piece of metal just "broke"; nonetheless, can this be repaired?
> welded? or should I look for a new one? The boom is original to the boat;
> 1985 37 CB; any ideas? Thanks
>
>  Richard
> 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
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Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

There are a lot of problems that cast materials exhibit that their machined
counterparts do not.
On Jan 11, 2015 3:10 PM, "Richard N. Bush via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks to all for the information, I will probably call Garhauer tomorrow;
> I still do not understand what would cause the metal to break; there was no
> stress or pull on it, certainly no gybing going on; could just cold weather
> cause such a break?
>
>  Richard
> 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River; Mile 596;
>
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
> To: Paul Fountain ; cnc-list 
> Sent: Sun, Jan 11, 2015 11:01 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck
>
>  An unintended jibe broke mine. After talking to some welders, who said
> the cast metal was hard to work with, I had a local guy fabricate one out
> of stainless (all that about 15 years ago) - it still looks new.
>
> Gary
>
> - Original Message -
> *From:* Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
> *To:* Richard N. Bush  ; "
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 11, 2015 7:49 AM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck
>
>  We had garhauer make a new one in stainless when we put the solid vang
> on  Not a fan of cast aluminum for the reason you saw
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jan 11, 2015, at 2:17 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>   I went to the boat to check on things and while standing on the frozen
> dock I sensed that something wasn't right but nothing seemed out of the
> ordinary until it dawned on me that the boom was laying on the top of the
> cabin; the outboard end was hanging by the topping lift but the inboard end
> was laying at the base of the mast! I looked at it and found that the black
> metal part that goes in the goose neck was broken into pieces and the
> broken part of the "ring" was still in the goose neck with the bolt
> intactI can only assume that it somehow froze and snapped? We have had
> the same cold spell as the rest of the country, (single digits, etc.); and
> some windy nights, but I have no idea how a one inch wide and half inch
> thick piece of metal just "broke"; nonetheless, can this be repaired?
> welded? or should I look for a new one? The boom is original to the boat;
> 1985 37 CB; any ideas? Thanks
>
>  Richard
> 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
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Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I would blame it on the cold. The chances are that there was some water 
somewhere there. Water and freezing does a lot of damage. We even had 
cryoseisme events here last week. When it gets cold enough quickly enough (from 
+5 C to about –25 C in less then 24 h) things tend to go boom at night.

Marek (in Ottawa)

From: Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2015 3:09 PM
To: gnylan...@atlanticbb.net ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; p...@seasource.ca 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck

Thanks to all for the information, I will probably call Garhauer tomorrow; I 
still do not understand what would cause the metal to break; there was no 
stress or pull on it, certainly no gybing going on; could just cold weather 
cause such a break?

Richard
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River; Mile 596;


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
To: Paul Fountain ; cnc-list 
Sent: Sun, Jan 11, 2015 11:01 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck


An unintended jibe broke mine. After talking to some welders, who said the cast 
metal was hard to work with, I had a local guy fabricate one out of stainless 
(all that about 15 years ago) - it still looks new.

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
  To: Richard N. Bush ; " 
  Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2015 7:49 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck

  We had garhauer make a new one in stainless when we put the solid vang on 
 Not a fan of cast aluminum for the reason you saw

  Sent from my iPad

  On Jan 11, 2015, at 2:17 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I went to the boat to check on things and while standing on the frozen dock 
I sensed that something wasn't right but nothing seemed out of the ordinary 
until it dawned on me that the boom was laying on the top of the cabin; the 
outboard end was hanging by the topping lift but the inboard end was laying at 
the base of the mast! I looked at it and found that the black metal part that 
goes in the goose neck was broken into pieces and the broken part of the "ring" 
was still in the goose neck with the bolt intactI can only assume that it 
somehow froze and snapped? We have had the same cold spell as the rest of the 
country, (single digits, etc.); and some windy nights, but I have no idea how a 
one inch wide and half inch thick piece of metal just "broke"; nonetheless, can 
this be repaired? welded? or should I look for a new one? The boom is original 
to the boat; 1985 37 CB; any ideas? Thanks  


Richard
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

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Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

... what would cause the metal to break...



I expect the cast fitting was already damaged but just barely holding on.  A 
little extra stress from the cold likely pushed it over the edge to failure.



Calypso also has a fabricated SS goose neck that I watch closely and keep lubed.



Martin

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Richard N. Bush via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2015 12:09 PM
To: gnylan...@atlanticbb.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; p...@seasource.ca
Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck

Thanks to all for the information, I will probably call Garhauer tomorrow; I 
still do not understand what would cause the metal to break; there was no 
stress or pull on it, certainly no gybing going on; could just cold weather 
cause such a break?

Richard
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River; Mile 596;


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
To: Paul Fountain ; cnc-list 
Sent: Sun, Jan 11, 2015 11:01 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck

An unintended jibe broke mine. After talking to some welders, who said the cast 
metal was hard to work with, I had a local guy fabricate one out of stainless 
(all that about 15 years ago) - it still looks new.

Gary
- Original Message -
From: Paul Fountain via CnC-List
To: Richard N. Bush ; "
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2015 7:49 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck

We had garhauer make a new one in stainless when we put the solid vang on  
Not a fan of cast aluminum for the reason you saw

Sent from my iPad

On Jan 11, 2015, at 2:17 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I went to the boat to check on things and while standing on the frozen dock I 
sensed that something wasn't right but nothing seemed out of the ordinary until 
it dawned on me that the boom was laying on the top of the cabin; the outboard 
end was hanging by the topping lift but the inboard end was laying at the base 
of the mast! I looked at it and found that the black metal part that goes in 
the goose neck was broken into pieces and the broken part of the "ring" was 
still in the goose neck with the bolt intactI can only assume that it 
somehow froze and snapped? We have had the same cold spell as the rest of the 
country, (single digits, etc.); and some windy nights, but I have no idea how a 
one inch wide and half inch thick piece of metal just "broke"; nonetheless, can 
this be repaired? welded? or should I look for a new one? The boom is original 
to the boat; 1985 37 CB; any ideas? Thanks

Richard
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255

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Stus-List Garmin 740 for sale

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

I'm considering upgrading my GPS.  Anyone interested in a Garmin 740?  I
have the GXM  SiriusXM receiver to go with it.  

 

Great unit.  I'm going for the newer model with more features.

 

Contact me directly.

 

Pete

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Re: Stus-List Adjustable Prop

[Kathy Fielding via CnC-List]

Hi Ron, the original folding 2 blade on my 29mk2 was 14"D and 8" pitch.  
Upgrade to Gori prop is 15" and 10" pitch.  Magic will do a bit over 6 knots at 
2000 rpm.

Cheers, Bruce.

Sent from my iPad
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Stus-List Wanted to buy: Jib/Genoa sheets

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Looking to buy a used set of Jib sheets @ 3/8" dia or 10mm. We have a 30-2,
but I can't remember exactly how long the sheets are.

Hoping for lines that are fairly performance oriented/ minimal stretch. Let
me know if you have something in the garage or were planning an upgrade
this spring.

Thanks,
Kevin
30-2
Portland
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Re: Stus-List The stern squats at high speed

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Join the club. We (and Curtis comments later) have a boat with a flat 
transom. Thus, we can notice the squat more than those with boats with 
extended sterns and reverse transoms. Mine (30-1) splatters diesel crud all 
over the bottom half of the transom as I am motoring at any speed at all. I 
used to put a hose on the exhaust, but that looked so bad that I decided I 
should just wash off the crud after a vigorous motor.


Comments below on hull speed are relevant.

I cruised on a friends motorsailor - at 7 knots (big motor) the boat was 
pretty level, at 8, the bow came up a foot and the stern dropped a foot, at 
9, more of the same. Think about a power boat coming up on plane..


Physics rules.

Gary

- Original Message - 
From: "Joe at Zialater via CnC-List" 

To: 
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2015 12:13 PM
Subject: Stus-List The stern squats at high speed



Hi Tom - I notice the same thing on my 30-1 - as I increase revs the stern
squats.  I have a two blade fixed prop on an Atomic 4.  I sometimes adjust
the throttle by looking over the stern rather than the speedo - kinda 
handy.

At high revs my exhaust is completely underwater while it is a few inches
above water at rest.

I don't know if it is really a problem or just a matter of physics - my
power boat does the same thing, albeit  more drastically.

Joe Boyle
Zia, 1975 30-1
Annapolis

Message: 5
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2015 11:54:00 -0500
From: TOM VINCENT 
To: C&C Forum 
Subject: Stus-List The stern squats at high speed
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

I was wondering if anyone else has the same problem that I have with my 
36'
that has the 3 cylinder Yanmar 30 HP. While motoring if I increase the 
speed
the stern starts squatting the faster I go. I top out at 6.5 knots of 
speed

and the stern is way down. I have a martec 18'' folding prop and I do not
know the pitch.

Tom Vincent
Frolic II 1979 36' C&C




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Stus-List Rudder Rebuild

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

Hello Bruno,

If you'd rather spend the cash instead of going through the whole exercise,
how about a brand spankin' new one that's supposedly improved?

Check out www.Southshoreyachts.com .  I see one here:
http://southshoreyachts.com/?s=Rudder&post_type=product   for your boat for
$4,500.00.  It's a bit pricey but it's peace of mind..

Bonne année!

François Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia
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Stus-List Broken Goos neck.. 1 more..

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

 Hi Richard,

 You might want to call Off shore Spars as well..  www.offshorespars.com
 They migh be the OEM for your boom.  They are for mine and had the exact
 part I needed last year when I replaced my gooesneck fitting.  It's a
 triagular piece, Here's a picture of it:
 http://www.offshorespars.com/product-category/parts/  It's in the online
 store under parts / boom parts .  My part was 55.00 bucks or so.  I
 figured the original one lasted 24 years.. that's pretty good.


Happy New year

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia___
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Re: Stus-List Rudder Rebuild

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

thanks everyone for the inputs.

Allan, nice to hear from you, hope you're doing well.

I have checked both Southshore and CCI about replacement, Southshore sells the 
"original" rudder for 4500$ like said Francois, and CCI can make a new blade 
for 3000$ if you send your post, would be more with a new SS post or carbon is 
offered two.

I could but will not this job myself, we have a very good guy around that does 
composite repairs and custom fabrication, I have no doubt the new rudder will 
be very well made, better than new in fact, and reliable and a lot 
cheaper...But since I race the boat I want to be sure the profile is right so I 
want to have the right numbers to give to the builder. 

with no mold and with both sides profiles altered, he will probably have to 
shape a foam core and laminate over, the key will be to have the core right to 
minimize the fairing and keep the weight down. The actual one is so heavy... 
Probably wet and with a lot of putty from previous "repairs".

I might even ask CCI if they could just sell a CNC milled foam core in two 
pieces that I could put together minimizing the shaping effort and trouble to 
get it right. That seems to there construction technique.

it was interesting to see the file with the sketch of the 37+ rudder. It looks 
like the profile goes tapered  from 15% at the top to 11% at the tip. it makes 
sense and I will check mine to see if I can find the same variation. I would 
love to have an elliptical shape if I wasn't worry it would affect my rating...

I will check with the museum to buy the plans and hope to find answers. 

thanks.

Bruno

becassine
33mkii


Sent from my iPad

> On Jan 11, 2015, at 5:27 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello Bruno, 
> 
> If you'd rather spend the cash instead of going through the whole exercise, 
> how about a brand spankin' new one that's supposedly improved?  
> 
> Check out www.Southshoreyachts.com .  I see one here:  
> http://southshoreyachts.com/?s=Rudder&post_type=product   for your boat for 
> $4,500.00.  It's a bit pricey but it's peace of mind.. 
> 
> Bonne année! 
> 
> François Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five" 
> Lake Lanier, Georgia
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Re: Stus-List Rudder Rebuild

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Bruno — you could also check with Foss Foam in Florida:

http://newrudders.com/

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Jan 11, 2015, at 5:37 PM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
 wrote:

> thanks everyone for the inputs.
> 
> Allan, nice to hear from you, hope you're doing well.
> 
> I have checked both Southshore and CCI about replacement, Southshore sells 
> the "original" rudder for 4500$ like said Francois, and CCI can make a new 
> blade for 3000$ if you send your post, would be more with a new SS post or 
> carbon is offered two.
> 
> I could but will not this job myself, we have a very good guy around that 
> does composite repairs and custom fabrication, I have no doubt the new rudder 
> will be very well made, better than new in fact, and reliable and a lot 
> cheaper...But since I race the boat I want to be sure the profile is right so 
> I want to have the right numbers to give to the builder. 
> 
> with no mold and with both sides profiles altered, he will probably have to 
> shape a foam core and laminate over, the key will be to have the core right 
> to minimize the fairing and keep the weight down. The actual one is so 
> heavy... Probably wet and with a lot of putty from previous "repairs".
> 
> I might even ask CCI if they could just sell a CNC milled foam core in two 
> pieces that I could put together minimizing the shaping effort and trouble to 
> get it right. That seems to there construction technique.
> 
> it was interesting to see the file with the sketch of the 37+ rudder. It 
> looks like the profile goes tapered  from 15% at the top to 11% at the tip. 
> it makes sense and I will check mine to see if I can find the same variation. 
> I would love to have an elliptical shape if I wasn't worry it would affect my 
> rating...
> 
> I will check with the museum to buy the plans and hope to find answers. 
> 
> thanks.
> 
> Bruno
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Re: Stus-List Rudder Rebuild

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Bruno
Are you a salt water boat or fresh?  If salt you may find that the metal 
frame inside the rudder is rusted away (particularly at the welds) and 
needs to be replaced, budget a contingency of a few boat bucks for that.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-01-11 7:37 PM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List wrote:

thanks everyone for the inputs.

Allan, nice to hear from you, hope you're doing well.

I have checked both Southshore and CCI about replacement, Southshore 
sells the "original" rudder for 4500$ like said Francois, and CCI can 
make a new blade for 3000$ if you send your post, would be more with a 
new SS post or carbon is offered two.


I could but will not this job myself, we have a very good guy around 
that does composite repairs and custom fabrication, I have no doubt 
the new rudder will be very well made, better than new in fact, and 
reliable and a lot cheaper...But since I race the boat I want to be 
sure the profile is right so I want to have the right numbers to give 
to the builder.


with no mold and with both sides profiles altered, he will probably 
have to shape a foam core and laminate over, the key will be to have 
the core right to minimize the fairing and keep the weight down. The 
actual one is so heavy... Probably wet and with a lot of putty from 
previous "repairs".


I might even ask CCI if they could just sell a CNC milled foam core in 
two pieces that I could put together minimizing the shaping effort and 
trouble to get it right. That seems to there construction technique.


it was interesting to see the file with the sketch of the 37+ rudder. 
It looks like the profile goes tapered  from 15% at the top to 11% at 
the tip. it makes sense and I will check mine to see if I can find the 
same variation. I would love to have an elliptical shape if I wasn't 
worry it would affect my rating...


I will check with the museum to buy the plans and hope to find answers.

thanks.

Bruno

becassine
33mkii


Sent from my iPad

On Jan 11, 2015, at 5:27 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



Hello Bruno,

If you'd rather spend the cash instead of going through the whole 
exercise, how about a brand spankin' new one that's supposedly improved?


Check out www.Southshoreyachts.com  
.  I see one here: 
http://southshoreyachts.com/?s=Rudder&post_type=product   for your 
boat for $4,500.00.  It's a bit pricey but it's peace of mind..


Bonne année!

François Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia

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Re: Stus-List Rudder Rebuild

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

That was the biggest concern for mine.  The fiberglass guy was pleasantly
surprised at the quality and conditiin of my welds.  He took extensive
pictures and made sure to encapsulate them during the rebuild.

Josh
On Jan 11, 2015 7:15 PM, "Graham Collins via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Hi Bruno
> Are you a salt water boat or fresh?  If salt you may find that the metal
> frame inside the rudder is rusted away (particularly at the welds) and
> needs to be replaced, budget a contingency of a few boat bucks for that.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
> On 2015-01-11 7:37 PM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List wrote:
>
> thanks everyone for the inputs.
>
>  Allan, nice to hear from you, hope you're doing well.
>
>  I have checked both Southshore and CCI about replacement, Southshore
> sells the "original" rudder for 4500$ like said Francois, and CCI can make
> a new blade for 3000$ if you send your post, would be more with a new SS
> post or carbon is offered two.
>
>  I could but will not this job myself, we have a very good guy around
> that does composite repairs and custom fabrication, I have no doubt the new
> rudder will be very well made, better than new in fact, and reliable and a
> lot cheaper...But since I race the boat I want to be sure the profile is
> right so I want to have the right numbers to give to the builder.
>
>  with no mold and with both sides profiles altered, he will probably have
> to shape a foam core and laminate over, the key will be to have the core
> right to minimize the fairing and keep the weight down. The actual one is
> so heavy... Probably wet and with a lot of putty from previous "repairs".
>
>  I might even ask CCI if they could just sell a CNC milled foam core in
> two pieces that I could put together minimizing the shaping effort and
> trouble to get it right. That seems to there construction technique.
>
>  it was interesting to see the file with the sketch of the 37+ rudder. It
> looks like the profile goes tapered  from 15% at the top to 11% at the tip.
> it makes sense and I will check mine to see if I can find the same
> variation. I would love to have an elliptical shape if I wasn't worry it
> would affect my rating...
>
>  I will check with the museum to buy the plans and hope to find answers.
>
>  thanks.
>
>  Bruno
>
>  becassine
> 33mkii
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jan 11, 2015, at 5:27 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>   Hello Bruno,
>
> If you'd rather spend the cash instead of going through the whole
> exercise, how about a brand spankin' new one that's supposedly improved?
>
> Check out www.Southshoreyachts.com .  I see one here:
> http://southshoreyachts.com/?s=Rudder&post_type=product   for your boat
> for $4,500.00.  It's a bit pricey but it's peace of mind..
>
> Bonne année!
>
> François Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, Georgia
>
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Re: Stus-List Rudder Rebuild

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Is there a 33 Mk II on the hard, perchance?  If it is nearby, perhaps a
mold of the rudder could be made.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sun, Jan 11, 2015 at 5:37 PM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> thanks everyone for the inputs.
>
> Allan, nice to hear from you, hope you're doing well.
>
> I have checked both Southshore and CCI about replacement, Southshore sells
> the "original" rudder for 4500$ like said Francois, and CCI can make a new
> blade for 3000$ if you send your post, would be more with a new SS post or
> carbon is offered two.
>
> I could but will not this job myself, we have a very good guy around that
> does composite repairs and custom fabrication, I have no doubt the new
> rudder will be very well made, better than new in fact, and reliable and a
> lot cheaper...But since I race the boat I want to be sure the profile is
> right so I want to have the right numbers to give to the builder.
>
> with no mold and with both sides profiles altered, he will probably have
> to shape a foam core and laminate over, the key will be to have the core
> right to minimize the fairing and keep the weight down. The actual one is
> so heavy... Probably wet and with a lot of putty from previous "repairs".
>
> I might even ask CCI if they could just sell a CNC milled foam core in two
> pieces that I could put together minimizing the shaping effort and trouble
> to get it right. That seems to there construction technique.
>
> it was interesting to see the file with the sketch of the 37+ rudder. It
> looks like the profile goes tapered  from 15% at the top to 11% at the tip.
> it makes sense and I will check mine to see if I can find the same
> variation. I would love to have an elliptical shape if I wasn't worry it
> would affect my rating...
>
> I will check with the museum to buy the plans and hope to find answers.
>
> thanks.
>
> Bruno
>
> becassine
> 33mkii
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jan 11, 2015, at 5:27 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hello Bruno,
>
> If you'd rather spend the cash instead of going through the whole
> exercise, how about a brand spankin' new one that's supposedly improved?
>
> Check out www.Southshoreyachts.com .  I see one here:
> http://southshoreyachts.com/?s=Rudder&post_type=product   for your boat
> for $4,500.00.  It's a bit pricey but it's peace of mind..
>
> Bonne année!
>
> François Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, Georgia
>
>
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Re: Stus-List The stern squats at high speed

[Dan via CnC-List]

It was explained to me by an very experienced sailor that depending on boat 
design the reason the stern drops is the bow begins to ride up on the bow wave. 
 It was very obvious to me when I used a Honda 9.9 on my Ericson 23’.. at 5KTS 
it rand true but beyond 5KTS the outboard mount started pushing water and the 
faster I went up to 7KTS it covered the engine mount.  So as he told me, slow 
down - if sailors really wanted to motor fast they own power boats..  made 
sense to me.  So now i try to get all my speed on my C&C 26’ with my sails.



Dan


On Sunday, January 11, 2015 at 2:12 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List wrote:

> Join the club. We (and Curtis comments later) have a boat with a flat  
> transom. Thus, we can notice the squat more than those with boats with  
> extended sterns and reverse transoms. Mine (30-1) splatters diesel crud all  
> over the bottom half of the transom as I am motoring at any speed at all. I  
> used to put a hose on the exhaust, but that looked so bad that I decided I  
> should just wash off the crud after a vigorous motor.
>  
> Comments below on hull speed are relevant.
>  
> I cruised on a friends motorsailor - at 7 knots (big motor) the boat was  
> pretty level, at 8, the bow came up a foot and the stern dropped a foot, at  
> 9, more of the same. Think about a power boat coming up on plane..
>  
> Physics rules.
>  
> Gary
>  
> - Original Message -  
> From: "Joe at Zialater via CnC-List"  (mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com)>
> To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com)>
> Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2015 12:13 PM
> Subject: Stus-List The stern squats at high speed
>  
>  
> > Hi Tom - I notice the same thing on my 30-1 - as I increase revs the stern
> > squats. I have a two blade fixed prop on an Atomic 4. I sometimes adjust
> > the throttle by looking over the stern rather than the speedo - kinda  
> > handy.
> > At high revs my exhaust is completely underwater while it is a few inches
> > above water at rest.
> >  
> > I don't know if it is really a problem or just a matter of physics - my
> > power boat does the same thing, albeit more drastically.
> >  
> > Joe Boyle
> > Zia, 1975 30-1
> > Annapolis
> >  
> > Message: 5
> > Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2015 11:54:00 -0500
> > From: TOM VINCENT mailto:tvince...@msn.com)>
> > To: C&C Forum mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com)>
> > Subject: Stus-List The stern squats at high speed
> > Message-ID:  > (mailto:bay168-w12245ac078651d15ee5bd5eed...@phx.gbl)>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> >  
> > I was wondering if anyone else has the same problem that I have with my  
> > 36'
> > that has the 3 cylinder Yanmar 30 HP. While motoring if I increase the  
> > speed
> > the stern starts squatting the faster I go. I top out at 6.5 knots of  
> > speed
> > and the stern is way down. I have a martec 18'' folding prop and I do not
> > know the pitch.
> >  
> > Tom Vincent
> > Frolic II 1979 36' C&C
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >  
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Stus-List 3QM30 injector lines

[PME via CnC-List]

I am looking to replace the injector lines on a Yanmar 3QM30.  The old ones I 
received with my “basket case” of engine parts are in ruff shape, rusty, dirty 
and in one, blocked up.  I know these are high pressure lines, but I am utterly 
shocked by what Yanmar is asking for new ones(see the prices from TOAD Marine 
below).  My guess is that Yanmar no longer makes these.  

inject. pipe 1  121370-59810 $157.70 
inject. pipe 2  121370-59820 $109.96
inject. pipe 3  121370-59830 $820.85 

Now, nobody in their right mind would pay these prices.  Does anyone have a 
good source for these(or equivalent straight) injector lines?   

Thanks for any insight.


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

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Re: Stus-List 3QM30 injector lines

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Toad will sell them to you but be warned they will probably be straight and
need bent.  How you bend them to match is the question.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
On Jan 11, 2015 9:45 PM, "PME via CnC-List"  wrote:

> I am looking to replace the injector lines on a Yanmar 3QM30.  The old
> ones I received with my "basket case" of engine parts are in ruff shape,
> rusty, dirty and in one, blocked up.  I know these are high pressure lines,
> but I am utterly shocked by what Yanmar is asking for new ones(see the
> prices from TOAD Marine below).  My guess is that Yanmar no longer makes
> these.
>
> inject. pipe 1 121370-59810  $157.70
> inject. pipe 2 121370-59820  $109.96
> inject. pipe 3 121370-59830  $820.85
>
> Now, nobody in their right mind would pay these prices.  Does anyone have
> a good source for these(or equivalent straight) injector lines?
>
> Thanks for any insight.
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
>
>
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List The stern squats at high speed

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

‎I've got a 13.5hp 2GM20F In my 26, with a 2 blade Flexofold.It squats too, and I get ‎black s*#t all over the lower part of my transom.I'm sure a 1GM would have been enough, but it was in there when I bought the boat.  I think it's the price we pay for having such slippery hulls! sam :-)C&C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta  From: Dan via CnC-ListSent: Sunday, January 11, 2015 7:34 PMTo: Gary Nylander; cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: DanCc: Joe at ZialaterSubject: Re: Stus-List The stern squats at high speed

It was explained to me by an very experienced sailor that depending on boat design the reason the stern drops is the bow begins to ride up on the bow wave.  It was very obvious to me when I used a Honda 9.9 on my Ericson 23’.. at 5KTS it rand true but beyond 5KTS the outboard mount started pushing water and the faster I went up to 7KTS it covered the engine mount.  So as he told me, slow down - if sailors really wanted to motor fast they own power boats..  made sense to me.  So now i try to get all my speed on my C&C 26’ with my sails.  

Dan
 
On Sunday, January 11, 2015 at 2:12 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List wrote:

Join the club. We (and Curtis comments later) have a boat with a flat transom. Thus, we can notice the squat more than those with boats with extended sterns and reverse transoms. Mine (30-1) splatters diesel crud all over the bottom half of the transom as I am motoring at any speed at all. I used to put a hose on the exhaust, but that looked so bad that I decided I should just wash off the crud after a vigorous motor.Comments below on hull speed are relevant.I cruised on a friends motorsailor - at 7 knots (big motor) the boat was pretty level, at 8, the bow came up a foot and the stern dropped a foot, at 9, more of the same. Think about a power boat coming up on plane..Physics rules.Gary- Original Message - From: "Joe at Zialater via CnC-List" To: Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2015 12:13 PMSubject: Stus-List The stern squats at high speedHi Tom - I notice the same thing on my 30-1 - as I increase revs the sternsquats.  I have a two blade fixed prop on an Atomic 4.  I sometimes adjustthe throttle by looking over the stern rather than the speedo - kinda handy.At high revs my exhaust is completely underwater while it is a few inchesabove water at rest.I don't know if it is really a problem or just a matter of physics - mypower boat does the same thing, albeit  more drastically.Joe BoyleZia, 1975 30-1AnnapolisMessage: 5Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2015 11:54:00 -0500From: TOM VINCENT To: C&C Forum Subject: Stus-List The stern squats at high speedMessage-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"I was wondering if anyone else has the same problem that I have with my 36'that has the 3 cylinder Yanmar 30 HP. While motoring if I increase the speedthe stern starts squatting the faster I go. I top out at 6.5 knots of speedand the stern is way down. I have a martec 18'' folding prop and I do notknow the pitch.Tom VincentFrolic II 1979 36' C&C___This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album.Please donate to the C&C Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers.Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.comTo change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album.Please donate to the C&C Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers.Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.comTo change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 

 



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Re: Stus-List Rudder Rebuild

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,

Thanks for the idea, well... Sadly I'm the only 33 mkII around. My rudder, 
which is now in my basement, is out of shape but not that much neither (one 
almost ok side). We may try to make templates at different heights and correct 
them with a Naca model profile.

 I think it could be possible to make a mold as you suggested, but i wonder if 
it could be cost effective. more foot for toughts i guess. two ways to compare. 
I will talk to my friend /builder about it. 

anyways if We try the mold it will be easier with the rudder off the boat. Can 
i say that part was not fun...remove the thing.

Bruno.


Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 2015-01-11 à 20:16, Dennis C.  a écrit :
> 
> Is there a 33 Mk II on the hard, perchance?  If it is nearby, perhaps a mold 
> of the rudder could be made.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Sun, Jan 11, 2015 at 5:37 PM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> thanks everyone for the inputs.
>> 
>> Allan, nice to hear from you, hope you're doing well.
>> 
>> I have checked both Southshore and CCI about replacement, Southshore sells 
>> the "original" rudder for 4500$ like said Francois, and CCI can make a new 
>> blade for 3000$ if you send your post, would be more with a new SS post or 
>> carbon is offered two.
>> 
>> I could but will not this job myself, we have a very good guy around that 
>> does composite repairs and custom fabrication, I have no doubt the new 
>> rudder will be very well made, better than new in fact, and reliable and a 
>> lot cheaper...But since I race the boat I want to be sure the profile is 
>> right so I want to have the right numbers to give to the builder. 
>> 
>> with no mold and with both sides profiles altered, he will probably have to 
>> shape a foam core and laminate over, the key will be to have the core right 
>> to minimize the fairing and keep the weight down. The actual one is so 
>> heavy... Probably wet and with a lot of putty from previous "repairs".
>> 
>> I might even ask CCI if they could just sell a CNC milled foam core in two 
>> pieces that I could put together minimizing the shaping effort and trouble 
>> to get it right. That seems to there construction technique.
>> 
>> it was interesting to see the file with the sketch of the 37+ rudder. It 
>> looks like the profile goes tapered  from 15% at the top to 11% at the tip. 
>> it makes sense and I will check mine to see if I can find the same 
>> variation. I would love to have an elliptical shape if I wasn't worry it 
>> would affect my rating...
>> 
>> I will check with the museum to buy the plans and hope to find answers. 
>> 
>> thanks.
>> 
>> Bruno
>> 
>> becassine
>> 33mkii
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>> On Jan 11, 2015, at 5:27 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hello Bruno, 
>>> 
>>> If you'd rather spend the cash instead of going through the whole exercise, 
>>> how about a brand spankin' new one that's supposedly improved?  
>>> 
>>> Check out www.Southshoreyachts.com .  I see one here:  
>>> http://southshoreyachts.com/?s=Rudder&post_type=product   for your boat for 
>>> $4,500.00.  It's a bit pricey but it's peace of mind.. 
>>> 
>>> Bonne année! 
>>> 
>>> François Rivard
>>> 1990 34+ "Take Five" 
>>> Lake Lanier, Georgia
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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

". . . bigger is better. . . "? Is a bigger booty better? Will a bigger anchor 
make my sailboat go faster? 
What helps sailing is "no engine". Light means flight. 
Research the brochures and look to buy a boat with the "designed right size 
engine", not bigger. An upgrade would be a smaller diesel w a turbo. Just 
sayin. 

Chuck 


- Original Message -

From: "Danny Haughey via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2015 7:54:45 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size 

Ok well, I guess it is adequate then. I just tend to see 40 hp engines in most 
40 footers. 

Maybe not be the ideal and will be a bargaining point if it comes to that. 

Bigger is better in this instance I think... 

Thanks for the insights guys! 

Danny 


>From my Android phone 


 Original message  
From: allen via CnC-List  
Date: 01/10/2015 3:53 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: Robert Abbott ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size 


Our 30-2 has 20 hp Universal and easily reaches hull speed in light to calm 
conditions. Originally it was powered by an 18 hp Universal that netted 16. 
Allen Miles 
s/v Septima 

From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2015 3:41 PM 
To: Danny Haughey ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size 

Danny: 
Some say if you have one hp per foot of boat, you are adequately powered for a 
sailboat. A 35 hp diesel in a 37+ seems adequate to me. 

Rob Abbott 
AZURA 
C&C 32 - 84 
Halifax, N.S. 


On 2015/01/10 12:30 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote: 



Hi Guys, 
I'm eyeing a 1989 37+ but it has a 35 HP universal diesel. That, seems kind of 
small for a nearly 40' boat. doesn't it? 
Danny 










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