Re: Stus-List Vents and Rain

[allen via CnC-List]

Kevin,

Which hatch?

Allen Miles
s/v Septima 30-2


From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, December 29, 2014 6:15 PM
To: Joel Aronson ; Edd Schillay ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Vents and Rain


I used one of the Nicro vent on my old US27 in the overhead hatch. I was 
surprised at the difference it made in summer especially. I had heard the 
batteries need to be replaced every few years, but did not have an issue. +1 
for vent in hatch.



Kevin
Osprey 30-2


On Mon Dec 29 2014 at 3:02:55 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Edd  
  Put them in the hatches. Plexi is easier than cabin top. 


  Joel


  On Monday, December 29, 2014, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 wrote:

All,


I second Jim Watts’ recommendation of a Day/Night Solar Vent. Though I 
haven’t used them myself on the Enterprise, I’ve heard of others having great 
results with them.  


The one caveat I’ve heard, in order to really get the benefit, is that you 
should install two; one towards the front of the boat pulling air in and 
another towords the back blowing air out. This will create an air flow that 
will keep the boat fresh. 


I’m going to do it one of these days, though I’m not sure if I can bring 
myself to drill holes in the deck.  




All the best,


Edd




Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log






  On Dec 29, 2014, at 5:09 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
 wrote:


  Hi Dan, 


  As Doug mentioned the usual thing is a Dorade Box.  These are usually 
wooden boxes but there are plastic one available too like this from Defender: 
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=1646992&path=-1|6880|2290139|2290147


  In another reply Jim Watts recommended a Day/night solar vent.  This is 
probably a better way to go as it will continue to move air even when there is 
no wind.  These from Defender: 
http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1|6880|2290139&id=2290144


  Ken H.


  On 27 December 2014 at 21:21, svpegasu...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

Hi Dan, 
I keep Pegasus at Shilshole.  Come on by if you are in the area. To 
answer your question. The vents sit atop a Dorade box. It has a stand pipe off 
set to the vent. This allows air to enter but funnels the water through drain 
holes in the side of the box. There are also caps that replace the vent scoop. 
Hope this answers your question.
Doug
Pegasus
LF38
Just west of Ballard, WA


T-Mobile. America's First Nationwide 4G Network.
-- Original message--
From: Dan via CnC-List 
Date: Sat, Dec 27, 2014 15:51
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
Subject:Stus-List Vents and Rain
I’m wanting to install a vent on my C&C 26 and curious on how the rain 
is kept out?  Seems I live in the Pacific North West where we have an abundant 
of moisture.  Does it have something that can be closed during downpours. 


Thanks,


Dan











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  301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Anchor Windlass

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

Hi all; I hope everyone had a great New Years! I am looking for feedback on an 
anchor windlass; my boat, (1985 C&C 37, CB, new to me last year) came with an 
older model Powerwinch 502 unit, ( not to be confused with the current 
Powerwinch 500 which is for pontoon boats); I have little experience with 
windlasses, all of my prior boats were easy enough to haul the anchor by hand.

This unit is mounted on a heavy stainless bracket and appears to be appropriate 
size for the boat; however, it does not work and so far I haven't been able to 
determine whether it is an electrical issue or a mechanical issue; my question 
is; given the age of this unit, should I bother at all?  The advertised 
comparable Powerwinch units are in the $600-700 range and I am thinking that in 
the future, parts availability and reliability will be more important than 
saving a few buck now...so please let me know your thoughts, and if you think 
replacement is warranted, what would you recommend?   If this unit is worth 
keeping, what would you recommend troubleshooting-wise?
 
Many thanks..

Richard
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River; Mile 596

Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 
 





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Re: Stus-List Anchor Windlass

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

How much chain and rode do you have?  I haul my 37+ by hand.  It isn't easy
but I do it regularly.  Have you ever tried?  How much anchoring do you
intend to do?  I bought a manual windlass but haven't installed it.  It
works similar to a vertical electric windlass just without the motor
sticking out the bottom and you attach a winch handle in the top.
Clockwise ratchets the anchor in, counterclockwise loosens the clutch and
plays out the anchor.  Fabricating a mount is really my only hold up, that
and the fact that I can haul it by hand.

Troubleshooting yours should be easy.  The motor works with 12v forward and
reverse polarity to change direction.  A solinoid is used in line to carry
the high current instead of the push button.  An easy go, no-go test would
be to disconnect the motor connections and jumper a portable 12v battery
momentarily to the motor terminals.  If it moves then the windlass is
probably good and not the problem.  If it doesn't move then I would remove
the motor and perform motor troubleshooting such as brushes, winding
resistance, and hand rotation.  Rewinds are cost effective.  Brushes are
cheap.  If it is bound mechanical then you may have to replace the motor.

With the motor off try to drive the windlass to ensure it is not bound.
Disassemble and repair as necessary.

Troubleshoot the electrical.  Heavy gauge wire is required and corrosion at
any or all of the terminals could easily be causing you problems.  A bad
switch or a bad solinoid are also well within the relm of possibilities.

Your concerns about parts and repairs is warranted but you will experience
the same challenges from a new replacement which is why I have chosen a
manual windlass and even hesitate to install it.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jan 3, 2015 10:07 AM, "Richard N. Bush via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all; I hope everyone had a great New Years! I am looking for feedback
> on an anchor windlass; my boat, (1985 C&C 37, CB, new to me last year) came
> with an older model Powerwinch 502 unit, ( not to be confused with the
> current Powerwinch 500 which is for pontoon boats); I have little
> experience with windlasses, all of my prior boats were easy enough to haul
> the anchor by hand.
>
> This unit is mounted on a heavy stainless bracket and appears to be
> appropriate size for the boat; however, it does not work and so far I
> haven't been able to determine whether it is an electrical issue or a
> mechanical issue; my question is; given the age of this unit, should I
> bother at all?  The advertised comparable Powerwinch units are in the
> $600-700 range and I am thinking that in the future, parts availability and
> reliability will be more important than saving a few buck now...so please
> let me know your thoughts, and if you think replacement is warranted, what
> would you recommend?   If this unit is worth keeping, what would you
> recommend troubleshooting-wise?
>
> Many thanks..
>  Richard
> 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River; Mile 596
>  Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint survey

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I also was skeptical - they listed paints by manufacturer. So, Pettit has paint 
- about a dozen brands of all types, from ablative to hard as rocks. So, what 
does it mean that Pettit has an X rating?

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; joel. aronson 
  Sent: Friday, January 02, 2015 10:07 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint survey


  Wonder how many respondents have tried more than one paint?  Surveys are so 
subjective.  It's like GEICO advertising a 97% satisfaction rating.  Is that 
current policyholders?  Google "GEICO complaints" and see what that brings up.  
:)

  I've used Micron CSC and Baltoplate on Touche' and like both.  Balto is 
faster; CSC required less maintenance.  Not surprising because that's their 
primary attributes, slipperyness or sluffing.

  Dennis C.
  Touche' 35-1 #83
  Mandeville, LA

  On Jan 2, 2015 10:16 AM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Jamestown Distributors did a customer survey of bottom paints:


http://totalboatshow.com/wordpress/2014/11/10/bottom-paint-survey-results/



-- 

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301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint survey

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Steve,

 

Practical Sailor has done extensive testing over the years.  They test a lot of 
paints in multiple locations.  Their results are comprehensive, but I still 
like to hear from others in my location with real-world experience.  Needless 
to say, VC Offshore is still the best paint for me.  Easy to clean and fast…   
Baltoplate is another racer’s favorite, but I find the dark color hard to 
clean.   You really can’t tell fouling with the dark grey color of the paint.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

“Midnight Mistress”

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve Thomas 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 02, 2015 10:19 PM
To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint survey

 

There was a "survey" (more like an actual scientific experiment) done a few 
years back that involved actual testing of samples in several different 
locations. It might have been Sail magazine, but I am not sure. Anyway some of 
the paints were better than others, as one would expect, but the real take away 
for me was the huge difference in performance that some had in one location 
verses another. To be sure paint preference is a personal choice, but it is 
also a site specific choice, and whatever the locals are using would always be 
a good start. 

 

Steve Thomas

C&C27 MKIII

Port Stanley, ON 

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Re: Stus-List Vents and Rain

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Allen , it was in my old US 27, (not our 30-2) the overhead hatch aft of
the mast on that boat. If I were to add one to our 30-2's it would be in
one of the small hatches in the head, which would cool and remove odors. I
believe our boats are small enough that this would still be effective
assuming you generally leave your head door open. I personally would not
add one to my forward fee berth hatch and would stay away from cutting
holes in the deck.

Kevin
30-2
Osprey

On Sat, Jan 3, 2015, 6:55 AM allen  wrote:

>  Kevin,
>
> Which hatch?
>
> Allen Miles
> s/v Septima 30-2
>
>  *From:* Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, December 29, 2014 6:15 PM
> *To:* Joel Aronson  ; Edd Schillay
>  ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Vents and Rain
>
> I used one of the Nicro vent on my old US27 in the overhead hatch. I was
> surprised at the difference it made in summer especially. I had heard the
> batteries need to be replaced every few years, but did not have an
> issue. +1 for vent in hatch.
>
> Kevin
> Osprey 30-2
>
> On Mon Dec 29 2014 at 3:02:55 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Edd
>> Put them in the hatches. Plexi is easier than cabin top.
>>
>> Joel
>>
>>
>> On Monday, December 29, 2014, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>>  All,
>>>
>>> I second Jim Watts’ recommendation of a Day/Night Solar Vent. Though I
>>> haven’t used them myself on the Enterprise, I’ve heard of others having
>>> great results with them.
>>>
>>> The one caveat I’ve heard, in order to really get the benefit, is that
>>> you should install two; one towards the front of the boat pulling air in
>>> and another towords the back blowing air out. This will create an air flow
>>> that will keep the boat fresh.
>>>
>>> I’m going to do it one of these days, though I’m not sure if I can bring
>>> myself to drill holes in the deck.
>>>
>>>
>>> All the best,
>>>
>>> Edd
>>>
>>>
>>> Edd M. Schillay
>>> Starship Enterprise
>>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>>> City Island, NY
>>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>  On Dec 29, 2014, at 5:09 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>  Hi Dan,
>>>
>>> As Doug mentioned the usual thing is a Dorade Box.  These are usually
>>> wooden boxes but there are plastic one available too like this from
>>> Defender:
>>> http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=1646992&path=-1|6880|2290139|2290147
>>>
>>> In another reply Jim Watts recommended a Day/night solar vent.  This is
>>> probably a better way to go as it will continue to move air even when there
>>> is no wind.  These from Defender:
>>> http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1|6880|2290139&id=2290144
>>>
>>> Ken H.
>>>
>>> On 27 December 2014 at 21:21, svpegasu...@gmail.com <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
  Hi Dan,
 I keep Pegasus at Shilshole.  Come on by if you are in the area. To
 answer your question. The vents sit atop a Dorade box. It has a stand pipe
 off set to the vent. This allows air to enter but funnels the water through
 drain holes in the side of the box. There are also caps that replace the
 vent scoop.
 Hope this answers your question.
 Doug
 Pegasus
 LF38
 Just west of Ballard, WA

 T-Mobile. America's First Nationwide 4G Network.
  -- Original message--
 *From: *Dan via CnC-List
 *Date: *Sat, Dec 27, 2014 15:51
 *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
 *Subject:*Stus-List Vents and Rain
 I’m wanting to install a vent on my C&C 26 and curious on how the rain
 is kept out?  Seems I live in the Pacific North West where we have an
 abundant of moisture.  Does it have something that can be closed during
 downpours.

 Thanks,

 Dan






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>>> subscribers.
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>>>
>>>
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
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Stus-List Happy New Year - Save the 2015 Date

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

First and foremost, best wishes to all for a happy and healthy (and 
breezy) New Year. 

Now that you’ve taken out your shiny new 2015 calendars (no Dr Crash 
calendar this year - bummer), please mark down September 11-13, 2015 for the 
2015 C&C Northeast Rendezvous, to be held at the Cedar Island Marina in 
Clinton, CT . 

Some of the highlights:

Floating docks with side-tie ups. 30A power, fresh water, fuel and gas.
Our own private dock with room for up to 20 C&Cs.
Extremely protected - no wind and no waves. 
Pool and hot tub.
Waterview seafood restaurant on site.
Ship’s store, showers, restrooms, recreation room, picnic area.
Spouse shopping shuttle to Clinton Crossing Premium Outlets 
 mall. 
Diesel engine maintenance seminar.
Cocktail hours and dinners (rec area reserved for our private use).
Special surprise guest.

More details and registration information is coming soon. In the 
meantime if you have any questions or comments, hailing frequencies are open.  
On screen. 

All the best,

Edd and Ellen Schillay


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
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Re: Stus-List Anchor Windlass

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Powerwinch is not a brand I would have on my boat, when I sold them at WM
we got at least half returned because they didn't run, right out of the
box. I wouldn't waste my time with it. Put in a good windlass and be done
with it.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 3 January 2015 at 07:44, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  wrote:

> How much chain and rode do you have?  I haul my 37+ by hand.  It isn't
> easy but I do it regularly.  Have you ever tried?  How much anchoring do
> you intend to do?  I bought a manual windlass but haven't installed it.  It
> works similar to a vertical electric windlass just without the motor
> sticking out the bottom and you attach a winch handle in the top.
> Clockwise ratchets the anchor in, counterclockwise loosens the clutch and
> plays out the anchor.  Fabricating a mount is really my only hold up, that
> and the fact that I can haul it by hand.
>
> Troubleshooting yours should be easy.  The motor works with 12v forward
> and reverse polarity to change direction.  A solinoid is used in line to
> carry the high current instead of the push button.  An easy go, no-go test
> would be to disconnect the motor connections and jumper a portable 12v
> battery momentarily to the motor terminals.  If it moves then the windlass
> is probably good and not the problem.  If it doesn't move then I would
> remove the motor and perform motor troubleshooting such as brushes, winding
> resistance, and hand rotation.  Rewinds are cost effective.  Brushes are
> cheap.  If it is bound mechanical then you may have to replace the motor.
>
> With the motor off try to drive the windlass to ensure it is not bound.
> Disassemble and repair as necessary.
>
> Troubleshoot the electrical.  Heavy gauge wire is required and corrosion
> at any or all of the terminals could easily be causing you problems.  A bad
> switch or a bad solinoid are also well within the relm of possibilities.
>
> Your concerns about parts and repairs is warranted but you will experience
> the same challenges from a new replacement which is why I have chosen a
> manual windlass and even hesitate to install it.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Jan 3, 2015 10:07 AM, "Richard N. Bush via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi all; I hope everyone had a great New Years! I am looking for feedback
>> on an anchor windlass; my boat, (1985 C&C 37, CB, new to me last year) came
>> with an older model Powerwinch 502 unit, ( not to be confused with the
>> current Powerwinch 500 which is for pontoon boats); I have little
>> experience with windlasses, all of my prior boats were easy enough to haul
>> the anchor by hand.
>>
>> This unit is mounted on a heavy stainless bracket and appears to be
>> appropriate size for the boat; however, it does not work and so far I
>> haven't been able to determine whether it is an electrical issue or a
>> mechanical issue; my question is; given the age of this unit, should I
>> bother at all?  The advertised comparable Powerwinch units are in the
>> $600-700 range and I am thinking that in the future, parts availability and
>> reliability will be more important than saving a few buck now...so please
>> let me know your thoughts, and if you think replacement is warranted, what
>> would you recommend?   If this unit is worth keeping, what would you
>> recommend troubleshooting-wise?
>>
>> Many thanks..
>>  Richard
>> 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River; Mile 596
>>  Richard N. Bush
>> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
>> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
>> 502-584-7255
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>>
>>
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>>
>>
>>
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>
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Stus-List Max Prop

[Rex & Jennifer Delay via CnC-List]

We have a new to us C&C 41 with a Max prop which is severely overpitched.
Does anyone know the correct settings for when I haul it?

 

Rex & Jennifer Delay

www. Ghostlake.com  

www.ghostlakesailing.com

 

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Re: Stus-List Max Prop

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

I recommend contacting PYI, Inc. and asking for assistance.  Be sure to have 
your MAX prop owner's manual or obtain another from PYI (often downloadable 
from their web site).  The manual will have a chart to indicate what the prop 
is set at now and which way to go to reduce pitch.



I have changed the pitch several times on Calypso's 3 blade MAX prop. It is 
easy to do when hauled out.  The hard part is getting it just right.  The guys 
at PYI will be able to give a good starting point after you tell them what 
engine and reduction gear you have.



After intentially over pitching Calypso's prop by 10% for 10 years (for longer 
trips in calmer PNW waters) I "downshifted" to 10% under pitched to be sure our 
Perkins 4-108 could reach max RPM when motoring into wind and waves.  We were 
planning a trip around Vancouver Island.  The conditions on the west side of 
the island can be boisterous and I wanted the extra safety factor of being able 
to power into offshore wind and wave.



I have not noticed any increase in fuel consumption at normal cruising speed 
but the engine is spinning faster if I push towards hull speed.  The lower 
pitch accomplished what I wanted in regards to powering into bigger wind and 
seas.



Martin

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle






From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Rex & Jennifer 
Delay via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2015 10:33 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Max Prop

We have a new to us C&C 41 with a Max prop which is severely overpitched.  Does 
anyone know the correct settings for when I haul it?

Rex & Jennifer Delay
www. Ghostlake.com
www.ghostlakesailing.com

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Re: Stus-List Anchor Windlass

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Calypso has a Lewmar Ocean windlass, #2 size IIRC.  I went oversized to handle 
a 65lb CQR and 90' of chain.  It has served well with some heavy use for 14 
years.  I now have the gear box off the boat for re-painting and have not seen 
any mechanical wear.



Martin

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Richard N. Bush via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2015 7:07 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anchor Windlass

Hi all; I hope everyone had a great New Years! I am looking for feedback on an 
anchor windlass; my boat, (1985 C&C 37, CB, new to me last year) came with an 
older model Powerwinch 502 unit, ( not to be confused with the current 
Powerwinch 500 which is for pontoon boats); I have little experience with 
windlasses, all of my prior boats were easy enough to haul the anchor by hand.

This unit is mounted on a heavy stainless bracket and appears to be appropriate 
size for the boat; however, it does not work and so far I haven't been able to 
determine whether it is an electrical issue or a mechanical issue; my question 
is; given the age of this unit, should I bother at all?  The advertised 
comparable Powerwinch units are in the $600-700 range and I am thinking that in 
the future, parts availability and reliability will be more important than 
saving a few buck now...so please let me know your thoughts, and if you think 
replacement is warranted, what would you recommend?   If this unit is worth 
keeping, what would you recommend troubleshooting-wise?

Many thanks..
Richard
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River; Mile 596
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255





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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint survey

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Agreed. I have to feel the hull with one hand and scrub with the other.  

Baltoplate has a high molybdenum content so it burnishes very well. 

Used to be a diver in my area that only cleaned bottoms at night with a light 
because he said he could see better. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 3, 2015, at 10:23 AM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Steve,
>  
> Practical Sailor has done extensive testing over the years.  They test a lot 
> of paints in multiple locations.  Their results are comprehensive, but I 
> still like to hear from others in my location with real-world experience.  
> Needless to say, VC Offshore is still the best paint for me.  Easy to clean 
> and fast…   Baltoplate is another racer’s favorite, but I find the dark color 
> hard to clean.   You really can’t tell fouling with the dark grey color of 
> the paint.
>  
> Jake
>  
> Jake Brodersen
> “Midnight Mistress”
> C&C 35 Mk-III
> Hampton VA
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve 
> Thomas via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, January 02, 2015 10:19 PM
> To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint survey
>  
> There was a "survey" (more like an actual scientific experiment) done a few 
> years back that involved actual testing of samples in several different 
> locations. It might have been Sail magazine, but I am not sure. Anyway some 
> of the paints were better than others, as one would expect, but the real take 
> away for me was the huge difference in performance that some had in one 
> location verses another. To be sure paint preference is a personal choice, 
> but it is also a site specific choice, and whatever the locals are using 
> would always be a good start.
>  
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
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Re: Stus-List Anchor Windlass

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

The decision is really based on your wallet and how much anchoring you plan to 
do.  In the past, I’ve used Lofrans, Maxwell and Lewmar verticals and have had 
good luck with all on combination rodes.  Muir is likely excellent as well.  
For all chain nothing beats the Maxwell although the Lofrans held up well.  Of 
the various units I’ve used my favorite is still the Lewmar but all three were 
excellent.  You tend to get what you pay for in a windlass as there is so much 
good competition out there.  Can’t offer any advice on horizontal units.

John

On Jan 3, 2015, at 2:11 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Calypso has a Lewmar Ocean windlass, #2 size IIRC.  I went oversized to 
> handle a 65lb CQR and 90' of chain.  It has served well with some heavy use 
> for 14 years.  I now have the gear box off the boat for re-painting and have 
> not seen any mechanical wear.
>  
> Martin
> Calypso
> 1971 C&C 43
> Seattle
> From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Richard N. Bush 
> via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2015 7:07 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Anchor Windlass
> 
> Hi all; I hope everyone had a great New Years! I am looking for feedback on 
> an anchor windlass; my boat, (1985 C&C 37, CB, new to me last year) came with 
> an older model Powerwinch 502 unit, ( not to be confused with the current 
> Powerwinch 500 which is for pontoon boats); I have little experience with 
> windlasses, all of my prior boats were easy enough to haul the anchor by hand.
>  
> This unit is mounted on a heavy stainless bracket and appears to be 
> appropriate size for the boat; however, it does not work and so far I haven't 
> been able to determine whether it is an electrical issue or a mechanical 
> issue; my question is; given the age of this unit, should I bother at all?  
> The advertised comparable Powerwinch units are in the $600-700 range and I am 
> thinking that in the future, parts availability and reliability will be more 
> important than saving a few buck now...so please let me know your thoughts, 
> and if you think replacement is warranted, what would you recommend?   If 
> this unit is worth keeping, what would you recommend troubleshooting-wise?
>  
> Many thanks..
> Richard
> 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River; Mile 596
> Richard N. Bush 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
>  
>  
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
>  
> ___
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> 
> Please donate to the C&C Photo Album to keep this list free for all 
> subscribers.
> 
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Re: Stus-List Max Prop

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

What Martin said...but I want to emphasize that you need to know your
engine model and the reduction gearing on your transmission and the
diameter of the prop *before* calling PYI.

They are very helpful and nailed the setting I should use first try. It was
only my lack of smarts that led me to using a slightly different pitch the
first couple of years.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 3 January 2015 at 11:04, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  I recommend contacting PYI, Inc. and asking for assistance.  Be sure to
> have your MAX prop owner's manual or obtain another from PYI (often
> downloadable from their web site).  The manual will have a chart to
> indicate what the prop is set at now and which way to go to reduce pitch.
>
>
>
> I have changed the pitch several times on Calypso's 3 blade MAX prop. It
> is easy to do when hauled out.  The hard part is getting it just right.
> The guys at PYI will be able to give a good starting point after you tell
> them what engine and reduction gear you have.
>
>
>
> After intentially over pitching Calypso's prop by 10% for 10 years (for
> longer trips in calmer PNW waters) I "downshifted" to 10% under pitched
> to be sure our Perkins 4-108 could reach max RPM when motoring into wind
> and waves.  We were planning a trip around Vancouver Island.  The
> conditions on the west side of the island can be boisterous and I wanted
> the extra safety factor of being able to power into offshore wind and wave.
>
>
>
> I have not noticed any increase in fuel consumption at normal cruising
> speed but the engine is spinning faster if I push towards hull speed.  The
> lower pitch accomplished what I wanted in regards to powering into bigger
> wind and seas.
>
>
>
> Martin
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C&C 43
>
> Seattle
>
>
>
>
>  --
> *From:* CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Rex &
> Jennifer Delay via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> *Sent:* Saturday, January 03, 2015 10:33 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Stus-List Max Prop
>
>   We have a new to us C&C 41 with a Max prop which is severely
> overpitched.  Does anyone know the correct settings for when I haul it?
>
>
>
> Rex & Jennifer Delay
>
> www. Ghostlake.com 
>
> www.ghostlakesailing.com
>
>
>
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>
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> subscribers.
>
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> page at:
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>
>
>
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Stus-List Adjustable Prop

[Ron Ander via CnC-List]

I have a Vari Profile adjustable pitch feathering propeller. I am definitely in 
need of an adjustment in the forward position as I am only able to motor at 
about 5 knots on flat waters at about 2300 rpm. In one particularly strong blow 
I was unable to make any headway into the wind and waves. I had to bear off to 
gain some momentum and wiggle up to gain way. My  theoretical hull speed is 6.5 
knots. 

 

It would make sense to me to adjust the pitch to give me more speed and see how 
it performs this year. Is this the right approach or does anybody have better 
advice?

 

Thanks,

 

Ron Ander

E.Y.C.

C&C 29 Mk 2 1986

“Alchemist”

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Adjustable Prop

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Ron,

They will be at the Toronto Boat Show – definitely something is wrong -

Paul
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron Ander 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, January 3, 2015 3:43 PM
To: 'Jim Watts'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Adjustable Prop

I have a Vari Profile adjustable pitch feathering propeller. I am definitely in 
need of an adjustment in the forward position as I am only able to motor at 
about 5 knots on flat waters at about 2300 rpm. In one particularly strong blow 
I was unable to make any headway into the wind and waves. I had to bear off to 
gain some momentum and wiggle up to gain way. My  theoretical hull speed is 6.5 
knots.

It would make sense to me to adjust the pitch to give me more speed and see how 
it performs this year. Is this the right approach or does anybody have better 
advice?

Thanks,

Ron Ander
E.Y.C.
C&C 29 Mk 2 1986
“Alchemist”


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Re: Stus-List Adjustable Prop

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Generally I would say that you should worry less about max boat speed and
more about matching max rpm to full load.  You should reach max rated rpm
and not blow black smoke.  All of this assumes a clean prop and bottom.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
On Jan 3, 2015 3:43 PM, "Ron Ander via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I have a Vari Profile adjustable pitch feathering propeller. I am
> definitely in need of an adjustment in the forward position as I am only
> able to motor at about 5 knots on flat waters at about 2300 rpm. In one
> particularly strong blow I was unable to make any headway into the wind and
> waves. I had to bear off to gain some momentum and wiggle up to gain way.
> My  theoretical hull speed is 6.5 knots.
>
>
>
> It would make sense to me to adjust the pitch to give me more speed and
> see how it performs this year. Is this the right approach or does anybody
> have better advice?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Ron Ander
>
> E.Y.C.
>
> C&C 29 Mk 2 1986
>
> "Alchemist"
>
>
>
>
>
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> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album.
>
> Please donate to the C&C Photo Album to keep this list free for all
> subscribers.
>
> Email address:
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> page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Adjustable Prop

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Do you reach max rpm in neutral?  If not it's not the prop.

Joel

On Saturday, January 3, 2015, Paul Fountain via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Ron,
>
>
>
> They will be at the Toronto Boat Show – definitely something is wrong -
>
>
>
> *Paul *
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On
> Behalf Of *Ron Ander via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Saturday, January 3, 2015 3:43 PM
> *To:* 'Jim Watts'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Adjustable Prop
>
>
>
> I have a Vari Profile adjustable pitch feathering propeller. I am
> definitely in need of an adjustment in the forward position as I am only
> able to motor at about 5 knots on flat waters at about 2300 rpm. In one
> particularly strong blow I was unable to make any headway into the wind and
> waves. I had to bear off to gain some momentum and wiggle up to gain way.
> My  theoretical hull speed is 6.5 knots.
>
>
>
> It would make sense to me to adjust the pitch to give me more speed and
> see how it performs this year. Is this the right approach or does anybody
> have better advice?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Ron Ander
>
> E.Y.C.
>
> C&C 29 Mk 2 1986
>
> “Alchemist”
>
>
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Anchor Windlass

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Richard,

This could be the proverbial can of worms for you.  Josh has given you some 
good tips on troubleshooting. 

Keep in mind that if you have an all chain rode any windlass replacement may 
include new chain if you can't find a gypsy to match your chain. Chain ain't 
cheap.

Dennis C.



Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 3, 2015, at 9:07 AM, "Richard N. Bush via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi all; I hope everyone had a great New Years! I am looking for feedback on 
> an anchor windlass; my boat, (1985 C&C 37, CB, new to me last year) came with 
> an older model Powerwinch 502 unit, ( not to be confused with the current 
> Powerwinch 500 which is for pontoon boats); I have little experience with 
> windlasses, all of my prior boats were easy enough to haul the anchor by hand.
>  
> This unit is mounted on a heavy stainless bracket and appears to be 
> appropriate size for the boat; however, it does not work and so far I haven't 
> been able to determine whether it is an electrical issue or a mechanical 
> issue; my question is; given the age of this unit, should I bother at all?  
> The advertised comparable Powerwinch units are in the $600-700 range and I am 
> thinking that in the future, parts availability and reliability will be more 
> important than saving a few buck now...so please let me know your thoughts, 
> and if you think replacement is warranted, what would you recommend?   If 
> this unit is worth keeping, what would you recommend troubleshooting-wise?
>  
> Many thanks..
> Richard
> 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River; Mile 596
> Richard N. Bush 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
>  
>  
> 
>  
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
>  
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album.
> 
> Please donate to the C&C Photo Album to keep this list free for all 
> subscribers.
> 
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> at:
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Re: Stus-List Adjustable Prop

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Another key indicator that the engine is straining besides black smoke is 
engine temperature, which should be 195 max. Diesels prefer to run loaded up 
and warm, but we throttle back to keep the temperature right. 

Another note: RPM meters are not always accurate. A hand held tachometer proved 
our OEM was off by several hundred revs. 

I too see a hull speed drop off in short waves and headwinds. Above winds of 20 
knots, our hullspeed motoring in short seas typically drops a lot. We try to 
sail as much as possible in those conditions, but sometimes need to get around 
a sea buoy when motoring offers a quicker option straight upwind. The chop 
affects sailing speed too, and motoring 3 knots straight upwind can be quicker 
and easier on guests than sailing more distance at 5 kts in building seas. Of 
course it all depends on schedules and mood of the crew. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Josh Muckley via CnC-List"  
To: "Ron Ander" , "C&C List" 
 
Sent: Saturday, January 3, 2015 4:07:37 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable Prop 



Generally I would say that you should worry less about max boat speed and more 
about matching max rpm to full load. You should reach max rated rpm and not 
blow black smoke. All of this assumes a clean prop and bottom. 

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
On Jan 3, 2015 3:43 PM, "Ron Ander via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 





I have a Vari Profile adjustable pitch feathering propeller. I am definitely in 
need of an adjustment in the forward position as I am only able to motor at 
about 5 knots on flat waters at about 2300 rpm. In one particularly strong blow 
I was unable to make any headway into the wind and waves. I had to bear off to 
gain some momentum and wiggle up to gain way. My theoretical hull speed is 6.5 
knots. 



It would make sense to me to adjust the pitch to give me more speed and see how 
it performs this year. Is this the right approach or does anybody have better 
advice? 



Thanks, 



Ron Ander 

E.Y.C. 

C&C 29 Mk 2 1986 

“Alchemist” 





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Stus-List Torquing keel nuts

[O'Keeffe Thomas via CnC-List]

Torquing my boat's keel nuts, for the nuts down in the bilge sump of my 29-2 I 
am finding I will need to use a lot of extensions to raise the 42" long wrench 
high enough for swing room.  The wrench handle needs to clear the top of the 
setee.  With 350 ft lbs of torque and something like 40" in extensions, I am 
worried about side loading.  It seems like a two-person job -- one to keep the 
head of the wrench lined up with the nut and another to swing the wrench.  
Before I try it, any suggestions on how not to do this?
I spent much time researching the keel nut topic on this list and elsewhere 
before attacking the job.  The knowledge shared by listers here is phenomenal.  
I never would have attempted this without that help.      

Thanks.
Tom O'Keeffe  
Bridie Mae29-2Douglaston, NY   ___
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Re: Stus-List Adjustable Prop

[Alan Bergen via CnC-List]

The correct setting will allow your engine to reach maximum rpm (Nigel Calder 
says at least 90% of rated speed), under load (in gear) at full throttle. If 
you can't reach max rpm, you're over pitched. If you can run faster than max 
rpm, you're under pitched. Normal run speed is about eighty percent of max rpm. 
For anyone considering purchase of a feathering prop, get the largest diameter 
prop that will give you a clearance of 15% of the diameter of the prop between 
the prop and the hull. Three blade props run smoother than two blade, and are 
worth the extra money. 

Alan Bergen 
35 Mk III Thirsty 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 

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