Re: Stus-List thread reply and rod rigging

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

David,

If you're looking at reheading all the rigging, think about pulling the
rig, removing all the shrouds, coiling them up and taking them to a NavTec
shop.  You can coil the rod to no LESS than 200 times diameter and strap it
to an "X" made of 2 x 4's for transport.  UPS will ship it.

You didn't say where you were.  There may be a NavTec shop near you. Throw
it in a pickup and drive it there.

Before you coil it, make a list of each rod and carefully measure the pin
to pin distance.  That is, between the centers of the hole in each end.
Also measure the pin diameters.  Now you have a record of the rig.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Sun, Oct 12, 2014 at 7:19 AM, David Dawes via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi, can someone tell me how to reply to a thread?  Sorry, I can’t figure
> it out.  So I started a new one.
>
>
> Next I looked at a 1984 CNC 35 M3 yesterday.  Concerned about the rod
> rigging.  This boat is run down so I don’t expect a record of rigging
> inspection or service.
>
> A rigger friend recommended full replacement.
>
> Is this correct?  And what are alternatives?  What is a rod replacement
> cost approx?  And is a wire replacement smart/ advisable/ cost effective or
> too heavy?  Technology has moved ahead in 30 years.
>
> I love the boat layout etc.  But suspect rigging will kill my offshore
> pleasure!
>
> Many thanks,
>
> David.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> David Dawes
> Captain
> Newport, RI, USA
> +1(401)5854942
> dawes...@hotmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Has anyone out there done any reconstruction in that cavity under the mast
step where the keel bolt comes up. My mast step is solid, but I can't seem
to get the forward keel bolt tight enough. I dropped the keel last spring
and rebeded it with 5200 but the forward bolt still leaks after a hard race.


Doug
"Bullet"
C&C 35 MK 3, 1985
_/)~~~_/) 


<>___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Doug,

How can you tell the forward keel bolt is leaking?  Is there seepage from
under the mast?

I went through a similar repair about ten years ago.  We dropped the keel,
drilled a large bore hole through the mast step and inserted a stainless
steel post (about 1 ½" in diameter).  The keel bolt now tries to compress
the post instead of the somewhat questionable filler that is found in the
mast step.  While my bilge is still always wet, my only issue is the
constant stink that the boat has.  When we dropped the keel the forward bolt
had a bunch of black water surrounding it.  The smell was horrible.

To further reduce any mast step problems, we installed a large ¼" stainless
steel plate over the mast step to spread the load across several of the
cross members.  I do have some pictures to share offline.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
"Midnight Mistress"
C&C 35 Mk-III
Hampton VA




_
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug
Allardyce via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 12:18 PM
To: CnC- List
Subject: Stus-List Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3


Has anyone out there done any reconstruction in that cavity under the mast
step where the keel bolt comes up. My mast step is solid, but I can't seem
to get the forward keel bolt tight enough. I dropped the keel last spring
and rebeded it with 5200 but the forward bolt still leaks after a hard race.


Doug
"Bullet"
C&C 35 MK 3, 1985
_/)~~~_/) 

 << File: Untitled attachment 00291.txt >> 
<>___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List thread reply and rod rigging

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

David:  Just my 2 cents worth..

 

Since you're in Newport RI, you have way more rigging expertise at your
fingertips than most of us on this list.Newport is full of competition
boats and riggers and such.  Find someone local and have them look at the
rig.

 

MY 38MKIIC is a 1977 vintage and has the original rod rigging that came with
the boat.  My mast is, however, a Stearns' mast instead of the standard C&C
one.  I have had my mast down several times in the past 16 years of
ownership and I've also had the rigging checked each time.  Regardless of
mast manufacturer, rod rigging is still a better option from my
perspective

 

To date (now I've really jinxed it) it is in fine shape and I expect it to
last a long time.

 

We race this boat so it gets more stress than usual cruising does and still
the rod is intact and healthy.

 

Just for thought.

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

C&C 38MKIIC..'77

 

Incidentally.they are making new C&C's right down the road from Newport
and you might drop in there to get an opinion.Principles there were
related to the C&C production effort in RI back in the daythey should be
great resources for you locally..

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 10:57 AM
To: David Dawes; CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List thread reply and rod rigging

 

David, 

If you're looking at reheading all the rigging, think about pulling the rig,
removing all the shrouds, coiling them up and taking them to a NavTec shop.
You can coil the rod to no LESS than 200 times diameter and strap it to an
"X" made of 2 x 4's for transport.  UPS will ship it.  

You didn't say where you were.  There may be a NavTec shop near you. Throw
it in a pickup and drive it there.

 

Before you coil it, make a list of each rod and carefully measure the pin to
pin distance.  That is, between the centers of the hole in each end.  Also
measure the pin diameters.  Now you have a record of the rig.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

 

On Sun, Oct 12, 2014 at 7:19 AM, David Dawes via CnC-List
 wrote:

Hi, can someone tell me how to reply to a thread?  Sorry, I can't figure it
out.  So I started a new one.

 

 

Next I looked at a 1984 CNC 35 M3 yesterday.  Concerned about the rod
rigging.  This boat is run down so I don't expect a record of rigging
inspection or service.

 

A rigger friend recommended full replacement.

 

Is this correct?  And what are alternatives?  What is a rod replacement cost
approx?  And is a wire replacement smart/ advisable/ cost effective or too
heavy?  Technology has moved ahead in 30 years.

 

I love the boat layout etc.  But suspect rigging will kill my offshore
pleasure!

 

Many thanks,

 

David.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

David Dawes

Captain

Newport, RI, USA

+1(401)5854942  

dawes...@hotmail.com

 

 

 


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Jake, 

If you send the pictures to Doug, please add me to the list. 

Thanks

Bruno
33mkii
Becassine

Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 2014-10-13 à 12:34, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List  a 
> écrit :
> 
> Doug,
> 
> How can you tell the forward keel bolt is leaking?  Is there seepage from
> under the mast?
> 
> I went through a similar repair about ten years ago.  We dropped the keel,
> drilled a large bore hole through the mast step and inserted a stainless
> steel post (about 1 ½" in diameter).  The keel bolt now tries to compress
> the post instead of the somewhat questionable filler that is found in the
> mast step.  While my bilge is still always wet, my only issue is the
> constant stink that the boat has.  When we dropped the keel the forward bolt
> had a bunch of black water surrounding it.  The smell was horrible.
> 
> To further reduce any mast step problems, we installed a large ¼" stainless
> steel plate over the mast step to spread the load across several of the
> cross members.  I do have some pictures to share offline.
> 
> Jake
> 
> Jake Brodersen
> "Midnight Mistress"
> C&C 35 Mk-III
> Hampton VA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug
> Allardyce via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 12:18 PM
> To: CnC- List
> Subject: Stus-List Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3
> 
> 
> Has anyone out there done any reconstruction in that cavity under the mast
> step where the keel bolt comes up. My mast step is solid, but I can't seem
> to get the forward keel bolt tight enough. I dropped the keel last spring
> and rebeded it with 5200 but the forward bolt still leaks after a hard race.
> 
> 
> Doug
> "Bullet"
> C&C 35 MK 3, 1985
> _/)~~~_/) 
> 
> << File: Untitled attachment 00291.txt >> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3

[D Harben via CnC-List]

Hi

Would you mind sharing on a photo cloud?

Don



> On Oct 13, 2014, at 1:16 PM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Jake, 
> 
> If you send the pictures to Doug, please add me to the list. 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Bruno
> 33mkii
> Becassine
> 
> Envoyé de mon iPad
> 
>> Le 2014-10-13 à 12:34, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List  a 
>> écrit :
>> 
>> Doug,
>> 
>> How can you tell the forward keel bolt is leaking?  Is there seepage from
>> under the mast?
>> 
>> I went through a similar repair about ten years ago.  We dropped the keel,
>> drilled a large bore hole through the mast step and inserted a stainless
>> steel post (about 1 ½" in diameter).  The keel bolt now tries to compress
>> the post instead of the somewhat questionable filler that is found in the
>> mast step.  While my bilge is still always wet, my only issue is the
>> constant stink that the boat has.  When we dropped the keel the forward bolt
>> had a bunch of black water surrounding it.  The smell was horrible.
>> 
>> To further reduce any mast step problems, we installed a large ¼" stainless
>> steel plate over the mast step to spread the load across several of the
>> cross members.  I do have some pictures to share offline.
>> 
>> Jake
>> 
>> Jake Brodersen
>> "Midnight Mistress"
>> C&C 35 Mk-III
>> Hampton VA
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> _
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug
>> Allardyce via CnC-List
>> Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 12:18 PM
>> To: CnC- List
>> Subject: Stus-List Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3
>> 
>> 
>> Has anyone out there done any reconstruction in that cavity under the mast
>> step where the keel bolt comes up. My mast step is solid, but I can't seem
>> to get the forward keel bolt tight enough. I dropped the keel last spring
>> and rebeded it with 5200 but the forward bolt still leaks after a hard race.
>> 
>> 
>> Doug
>> "Bullet"
>> C&C 35 MK 3, 1985
>> _/)~~~_/) 
>> 
>> << File: Untitled attachment 00291.txt >> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

Jake, you may as well send the pics to every one, we'd all like to see the 
plate! Thanks
 

Richard
1985 37 CB, Ohio River, Mile 584;

Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 
 
-Original Message-
From: Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
To: Jake Brodersen ; cnc-list 
Sent: Mon, Oct 13, 2014 1:16 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3


Jake, 

If you send the pictures to Doug, please add me to the list. 

Thanks

Bruno
33mkii
Becassine

Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 2014-10-13 à 12:34, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List  a 
écrit :
> 
> Doug,
> 
> How can you tell the forward keel bolt is leaking?  Is there seepage from
> under the mast?
> 
> I went through a similar repair about ten years ago.  We dropped the keel,
> drilled a large bore hole through the mast step and inserted a stainless
> steel post (about 1 ½" in diameter).  The keel bolt now tries to compress
> the post instead of the somewhat questionable filler that is found in the
> mast step.  While my bilge is still always wet, my only issue is the
> constant stink that the boat has.  When we dropped the keel the forward bolt
> had a bunch of black water surrounding it.  The smell was horrible.
> 
> To further reduce any mast step problems, we installed a large ¼" stainless
> steel plate over the mast step to spread the load across several of the
> cross members.  I do have some pictures to share offline.
> 
> Jake
> 
> Jake Brodersen
> "Midnight Mistress"
> C&C 35 Mk-III
> Hampton VA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug
> Allardyce via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 12:18 PM
> To: CnC- List
> Subject: Stus-List Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3
> 
> 
> Has anyone out there done any reconstruction in that cavity under the mast
> step where the keel bolt comes up. My mast step is solid, but I can't seem
> to get the forward keel bolt tight enough. I dropped the keel last spring
> and rebeded it with 5200 but the forward bolt still leaks after a hard race.
> 
> 
> Doug
> "Bullet"
> C&C 35 MK 3, 1985
> _/)~~~_/) 
> 
> << File: Untitled attachment 00291.txt >> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

What's a photo cloud?  Is that anything like cloud computing, which is a 
recently revived buzz word.


No clouds here today, it's hot and clear, but I did get in the kayak and 
finished waxing the starboard side before 11 a.m, when it was starting 
to get really hot.  We do get clouds rolling in after sunset when the 
thermals over the mountain rain forest create strong convection, but 
they are often full of lightning, which will probably mess up the pictures.


I've looked at clouds from both sides now...

Wal

you wrote:

Would you mind sharing on a photo cloud?



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List 86 C&C MKIII 38-ft owner's manual

[Douglas via CnC-List]

, removing all the shrouds, coiling them up and taking them to a NavTec
shop.  You can coil the rod to no LESS than 200 times diameter and strap it
to an "X" made of 2 x 4's for transport.  UPS will ship it.

You didn't say where you were.  There may be a NavTec shop near you. Throw
it in a pickup and drive it there.

Before you coil it, make a list of each rod and carefully measure the pin
to pin distance.  That is, between the centers of the hole in each end.
Also measure the pin diameters.  Now you have a record of the rig.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Sun, Oct 12, 2014 at 7:19 AM, David Dawes via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi, can someone tell me how to reply to a thread?  Sorry, I can?t figure
> it out.  So I started a new one.
>
>
> Next I looked at a 1984 CNC 35 M3 yesterday.  Concerned about the rod
> rigging.  This boat is run down so I don?t expect a record of rigging
> inspection or service.
>
> A rigger friend recommended full replacement.
>
> Is this correct?  And what are alternatives?  What is a rod replacement
> cost approx?  And is a wire replacement smart/ advisable/ cost effective
or
> too heavy?  Technology has moved ahead in 30 years.
>
> I love the boat layout etc.  But suspect rigging will kill my offshore
> pleasure!
>
> Many thanks,
>
> David.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> David Dawes
> Captain
> Newport, RI, USA
> +1(401)5854942
> dawes...@hotmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
-- next part --
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL:
<http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20141013/ca
d7f8e6/attachment-0001.html>

--

Subject: Digest Footer

___
CnC-List mailing list
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


--

End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 105, Issue 28
*


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 86 C&C MKIII 38-ft owner's manual

[Pierre Tremblay via CnC-List]

_cnc-list.com/attachments/20141012/d2
fb8e0b/attachment-0001.html>

--

Message: 4
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 09:56:56 -0500
From: "Dennis C." 
To: David Dawes , CnClist

Subject: Re: Stus-List thread reply and rod rigging
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

David,

If you're looking at reheading all the rigging, think about pulling the
rig, removing all the shrouds, coiling them up and taking them to a NavTec
shop.  You can coil the rod to no LESS than 200 times diameter and strap it
to an "X" made of 2 x 4's for transport.  UPS will ship it.

You didn't say where you were.  There may be a NavTec shop near you. Throw
it in a pickup and drive it there.

Before you coil it, make a list of each rod and carefully measure the pin
to pin distance.  That is, between the centers of the hole in each
 end.
Also measure the pin diameters.  Now you have a record of the rig.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Sun, Oct 12, 2014 at 7:19 AM, David Dawes via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi, can someone tell me how to reply to a thread?  Sorry, I can?t figure
> it out.  So I started a new one.
>
>
> Next I looked at a 1984 CNC 35 M3 yesterday.  Concerned about the rod
> rigging.  This boat is run down so I don?t expect a record of rigging
> inspection or service.
>
> A rigger friend recommended full replacement.
>
> Is this correct?  And what are alternatives?  What is a rod replacement
> cost approx?  And is a wire replacement smart/ advisable/ cost effective
or
> too heavy?  Technology has
 moved ahead in 30 years.
>
> I love the boat layout etc.  But suspect rigging will kill my offshore
> pleasure!
>
> Many thanks,
>
> David.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> David Dawes
> Captain
> Newport, RI, USA
> +1(401)5854942
> dawes...@hotmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
-- next part --
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL:
<http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20141013/ca
d7f8e6/attachment-0001.html>

--

Subject: Digest Footer

___
CnC-List mailing list
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


--

End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 105, Issue
 28
*


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3

[Alan Bergen via CnC-List]

I had a problem similar to Jake's. When the boat was out of the water, I could 
wiggle the keel from side to side. There was also the C&C smile. We dropped the 
keel, and flushed out the forward keel bolt hole from below. Horrible smell, 
like Jake experienced. The yard ground the top of the keel and the stub, 
remounted the keel using thickened epoxy, and filled the void around the 
forward keel bolt with about a gallon of epoxy. The yard also made square 
washers that were thicker on the forward edge than the aft edge so that round 
washers laid perpendicular to the keel bolts. Finally, they epoxied a strip of 
fiberglass cloth around the keel-stub joint. It's been five or more years, and 
no problems have reappeared. 

Alan Bergen 
35Mk III Thirsty 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I really don’t know clouds… at all.   :^)

Haulout tomorrow…   :^(

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Oct 13, 2014, at 12:57 PM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List  
wrote:

> I've looked at clouds from both sides now...
> 
> Wal

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Annapolis boat show

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Joel,

Any way of telling the C&C group from others? Anyone planning on being there?

Best,
Dave in the show...

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 7, 2014, at 8:53 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> OK guys, my suggestion is that we meet at the Fleet Reserve Club upper deck 
> around 4:00 Monday.
> 
> Joel  
> 
>> On Sun, Sep 21, 2014 at 6:14 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Great idea Bob,
>> It's tough to capture everyone's needs. 
>> Some people may be coming after the show with their cars at the football 
>> stadium while others will be parked nearby, or parked over in Eastport.  If 
>> you are driving in purely for the C&C group, I can understand picking a 
>> place clear of the show, but I think most will be attending both?  
>> 
>> Pussers menu:
>> http://issuu.com/pussers/docs/annap_dinner_menu_summer_2014
>> 
>> 
>> Charthouse menu:
>> http://www.chart-house.com/menus_pdf/CHAN_dinn.PD
>> 
>> 
>> The Boatyard Grille is located over the bridge in Eastport and is more of a 
>> sailor's pub.  I've enjoyed their crabcake and their Fish-n-Chips.  
>> Boatyard Grille menu:
>> http://www.boatyardbarandgrill.com/features/main
>> 
>> I personally like to watch the show breakdown, it's free and usually a great 
>> way to see some boats you missed and some interesting boat handling skills, 
>> while sipping adult beverages.  What could be better?
>> 
>> I'm open to all the suggestions so far.  Let's see what else is suggested.
>> 
>> Chuck
>> Resolute
>> 1990 C&C 34R
>> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>> 
>> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
>> To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
>> Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2014 4:39:15 PM
>> Subject: Stus-List Annapolis boat show
>> 
>> 
>> I would be up for a meeting too.  Pussers has great drinks but terrible food 
>> unless you stick with appetizers only.  The Chart House is much better in my 
>> opinion and it would be a little further away from the boat show tear down 
>> mess.  Even though I'll be at the boat show on Saturday, I'm local and can 
>> meet on Monday evening...
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>> Bob Boyer
>> S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
>> 1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
>> email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
>> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>> 
>> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
>> messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3

[Stu via CnC-List]

Before you send everyone your pictures, consider uploading them to a site on 
the net – check out Photobucket, Picaso, etc. and then send everyone the link.  
Not everyone wants to see them, but those that do can easily view them on your 
photo gallery.

Sending pictures uses a lot of bandwidth and on this list they would be stored 
in the archives.  We get charged for both and it get costly.

Stu

From: Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 1:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3

Jake, you may as well send the pics to every one, we'd all like to see the 
plate! Thanks

Richard
1985 37 CB, Ohio River, Mile 584;___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3

[D Harben via CnC-List]

... but clouds got in my way 



> On Oct 13, 2014, at 3:10 PM, Stu via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Before you send everyone your pictures, consider uploading them to a site on 
> the net – check out Photobucket, Picaso, etc. and then send everyone the 
> link.  Not everyone wants to see them, but those that do can easily view them 
> on your photo gallery.
>  
> Sending pictures uses a lot of bandwidth and on this list they would be 
> stored in the archives.  We get charged for both and it get costly.
>  
> Stu
>  
> From: Richard N. Bush via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 1:46 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3
>  
> Jake, you may as well send the pics to every one, we'd all like to see the 
> plate! Thanks
>  
> Richard
> 1985 37 CB, Ohio River, Mile 584;
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Spewing dripless

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Went out over the week and had a great sail out, but some problems 
along the way.  But I have two maintanence issues.


1.  Automatic Bilge Switch problems

Alera is factory wired for a manual switch and then a hot lead to the 
bilge to use with the switch.  There was no auto switch on her when 
we got her a few years ago and since we keep her in the water all 
year, I needed to install one.  I like state of the art electronics 
so I went with the fully electronic Ultima Bilge Pump 
Switch.  Instead of mounting the switch to a 1/4" piece of plywood as 
instructed, I mounted it to the floor of the Bilge directly. which 
may be contributing to the bad cycling problem. The first one I 
installed started coming on and refusing to shut down until we cycled 
the manual switch.  This week end it was so bad I just pulled the 
fuse.  This weirdness had started when we were on our summer 
cruise.  So, I had a replacement switch on board. I replaced the 
switch, but may have screwed the wiring up.  It ran, but did not shut 
down.  So, as I have been doing before when it would not shut down, I 
cycled the manual switch and it shut down...but from the way it shut 
down, I suspect I fried something because the switch is not working 
at all now.  I checked the breaker panel and all's well there.  The 
in line fuse I installed with the switch is fine as well.The 
manual switch is still functional...thank god!  (see 2 below!)



2  Dripping dripless bearing

In March when I had her bottom painted I had the yard (Seaview West 
in Seattle) install a brand new dripless bearing.  As a result of the 
bilge switch issue I decided to check the bilge on the 2 hour run 
back yesterday.  The bilge  was substantially filled.  I traced the 
ingress to the dripless bearing which was spewing water 
everywhere.  Not enough to outpace the electric bilge pump or require 
whalegusher intervention.  After we docked I checked and the rotor 
was loose enough for me to turn it on the shaft.  I am getting the 
documentation from the yard to make sure I get the right parts, but 
as I understand it, I should not just tighten the set screws, but 
replace them to be sure they  bite, then use a 2nd set crew and lock 
tight to lock them in place.


Any thoughts on these electronic switches, alternatives, dripless 
bearing maintenance or anything else?


Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

If the set screws for the seal have a point, consider drilling a small
detent in the shaft.  Install one set screw snugly to hold the flange in
position, use a small drill to make the detent in the other hole.  Then
install that set screw tightly with threadlocker.  Remove the first screw
and make a detent for it.

Dennis C.

On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 2:21 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Went out over the week and had a great sail out, but some problems along
> the way.  But I have two maintanence issues.
>
> 1.  Automatic Bilge Switch problems
>
> Alera is factory wired for a manual switch and then a hot lead to the
> bilge to use with the switch.  There was no auto switch on her when we got
> her a few years ago and since we keep her in the water all year, I needed
> to install one.  I like state of the art electronics so I went with the
> fully electronic Ultima Bilge Pump Switch.  Instead of mounting the switch
> to a 1/4" piece of plywood as instructed, I mounted it to the floor of the
> Bilge directly. which may be contributing to the bad cycling problem. The
> first one I installed started coming on and refusing to shut down until we
> cycled the manual switch.  This week end it was so bad I just pulled the
> fuse.  This weirdness had started when we were on our summer cruise.  So, I
> had a replacement switch on board. I replaced the switch, but may have
> screwed the wiring up.  It ran, but did not shut down.  So, as I have been
> doing before when it would not shut down, I cycled the manual switch and it
> shut down...but from the way it shut down, I suspect I fried something
> because the switch is not working at all now.  I checked the breaker panel
> and all's well there.  The in line fuse I installed with the switch is fine
> as well.The manual switch is still functional...thank god!  (see 2
> below!)
>
>
> 2  Dripping dripless bearing
>
> In March when I had her bottom painted I had the yard (Seaview West in
> Seattle) install a brand new dripless bearing.  As a result of the bilge
> switch issue I decided to check the bilge on the 2 hour run back
> yesterday.  The bilge  was substantially filled.  I traced the ingress to
> the dripless bearing which was spewing water everywhere.  Not enough to
> outpace the electric bilge pump or require whalegusher intervention.  After
> we docked I checked and the rotor was loose enough for me to turn it on the
> shaft.  I am getting the documentation from the yard to make sure I get the
> right parts, but as I understand it, I should not just tighten the set
> screws, but replace them to be sure they  bite, then use a 2nd set crew and
> lock tight to lock them in place.
>
> Any thoughts on these electronic switches, alternatives, dripless bearing
> maintenance or anything else?
>
> Tom B
>
>  Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

OK, for the bilge pump switch.  Is it this one?

http://www.electricmarine.com/web/bad_practice.htm#bilge

I prefer the USS Mini Bilge Switch.  Bottom one on this site:
http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=pumpswitch_price

I usually wire a Rule Manual-Off-Auto bilge switch to the terminal for one
of the batteries on the back of the main battery switch for constant
power.  The auto side of the switch goes to one wire of the float switch.
The other wire of the float switch is connected to both the Manual side of
the bilge switch and the positive of the pump.

Dennis C.



On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 2:21 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Went out over the week and had a great sail out, but some problems along
> the way.  But I have two maintanence issues.
>
> 1.  Automatic Bilge Switch problems
>
> Alera is factory wired for a manual switch and then a hot lead to the
> bilge to use with the switch.  There was no auto switch on her when we got
> her a few years ago and since we keep her in the water all year, I needed
> to install one.  I like state of the art electronics so I went with the
> fully electronic Ultima Bilge Pump Switch.  Instead of mounting the switch
> to a 1/4" piece of plywood as instructed, I mounted it to the floor of the
> Bilge directly. which may be contributing to the bad cycling problem. The
> first one I installed started coming on and refusing to shut down until we
> cycled the manual switch.  This week end it was so bad I just pulled the
> fuse.  This weirdness had started when we were on our summer cruise.  So, I
> had a replacement switch on board. I replaced the switch, but may have
> screwed the wiring up.  It ran, but did not shut down.  So, as I have been
> doing before when it would not shut down, I cycled the manual switch and it
> shut down...but from the way it shut down, I suspect I fried something
> because the switch is not working at all now.  I checked the breaker panel
> and all's well there.  The in line fuse I installed with the switch is fine
> as well.The manual switch is still functional...thank god!  (see 2
> below!)
>
>
> 2  Dripping dripless bearing
>
> In March when I had her bottom painted I had the yard (Seaview West in
> Seattle) install a brand new dripless bearing.  As a result of the bilge
> switch issue I decided to check the bilge on the 2 hour run back
> yesterday.  The bilge  was substantially filled.  I traced the ingress to
> the dripless bearing which was spewing water everywhere.  Not enough to
> outpace the electric bilge pump or require whalegusher intervention.  After
> we docked I checked and the rotor was loose enough for me to turn it on the
> shaft.  I am getting the documentation from the yard to make sure I get the
> right parts, but as I understand it, I should not just tighten the set
> screws, but replace them to be sure they  bite, then use a 2nd set crew and
> lock tight to lock them in place.
>
> Any thoughts on these electronic switches, alternatives, dripless bearing
> maintenance or anything else?
>
> Tom B
>
>  Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Dripless seal - As a backup for the set screws it is pretty painless to 
install an anode on the shaft up against the rotor.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-10-13 4:42 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
If the set screws for the seal have a point, consider drilling a small 
detent in the shaft.  Install one set screw snugly to hold the flange 
in position, use a small drill to make the detent in the other hole.  
Then install that set screw tightly with threadlocker.  Remove the 
first screw and make a detent for it.


Dennis C.

On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 2:21 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Went out over the week and had a great sail out, but some problems
along the way.  But I have two maintanence issues.

1.  Automatic Bilge Switch problems

Alera is factory wired for a manual switch and then a hot lead to
the bilge to use with the switch.  There was no auto switch on her
when we got her a few years ago and since we keep her in the water
all year, I needed to install one.  I like state of the art
electronics so I went with the fully electronic Ultima Bilge Pump
Switch. Instead of mounting the switch to a 1/4" piece of plywood
as instructed, I mounted it to the floor of the Bilge directly.
which may be contributing to the bad cycling problem. The first
one I installed started coming on and refusing to shut down until
we cycled the manual switch.  This week end it was so bad I just
pulled the fuse.  This weirdness had started when we were on our
summer cruise.  So, I had a replacement switch on board. I
replaced the switch, but may have screwed the wiring up.  It ran,
but did not shut down.  So, as I have been doing before when it
would not shut down, I cycled the manual switch and it shut
down...but from the way it shut down, I suspect I fried something
because the switch is not working at all now.  I checked the
breaker panel and all's well there.  The in line fuse I installed
with the switch is fine as well.The manual switch is still
functional...thank god!  (see 2 below!)


2  Dripping dripless bearing

In March when I had her bottom painted I had the yard (Seaview
West in Seattle) install a brand new dripless bearing.  As a
result of the bilge switch issue I decided to check the bilge on
the 2 hour run back yesterday.  The bilge  was substantially
filled.  I traced the ingress to the dripless bearing which was
spewing water everywhere.  Not enough to outpace the electric
bilge pump or require whalegusher intervention.  After we docked I
checked and the rotor was loose enough for me to turn it on the
shaft.  I am getting the documentation from the yard to make sure
I get the right parts, but as I understand it, I should not just
tighten the set screws, but replace them to be sure they  bite,
then use a 2nd set crew and lock tight to lock them in place.

Any thoughts on these electronic switches, alternatives, dripless
bearing maintenance or anything else?

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200 
www.sv-alera.com



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go
bottom of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com





___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

>> If the set screws for the seal have a point, consider drilling a small 
>> detent in the shaft.  Install one set screw snugly to hold the flange in 
>> position, use a small drill to make the detent in the other hole.  Then 
>> install that set screw tightly with threadlocker.  Remove the first screw 
>> and make a detent for it.<<

De-burr any detents or scratches on the shaft before sliding the rotor with its 
O-rings over the detents.  Damaging the O-rings will lead to seeping leaks.

I also strongly encourage brand new set-screws for the first set screw into the 
rotor's threaded holes.  The second one can be used as the need for a "fresh 
bite" into the shaft is less.

As always, do what the guy's at PYI say, both over the phone and on their web 
site.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham 
Collins via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 1:16 PM
To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless

Dripless seal - As a backup for the set screws it is pretty painless to install 
an anode on the shaft up against the rotor.


Graham Collins

Secret Plans

C&C 35-III #11
On 2014-10-13 4:42 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
If the set screws for the seal have a point, consider drilling a small detent 
in the shaft.  Install one set screw snugly to hold the flange in position, use 
a small drill to make the detent in the other hole.  Then install that set 
screw tightly with threadlocker.  Remove the first screw and make a detent for 
it.
Dennis C.

On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 2:21 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Went out over the week and had a great sail out, but some problems along the 
way.  But I have two maintanence issues.

1.  Automatic Bilge Switch problems

Alera is factory wired for a manual switch and then a hot lead to the bilge to 
use with the switch.  There was no auto switch on her when we got her a few 
years ago and since we keep her in the water all year, I needed to install one. 
 I like state of the art electronics so I went with the fully electronic Ultima 
Bilge Pump Switch.  Instead of mounting the switch to a 1/4" piece of plywood 
as instructed, I mounted it to the floor of the Bilge directly. which may be 
contributing to the bad cycling problem. The first one I installed started 
coming on and refusing to shut down until we cycled the manual switch.  This 
week end it was so bad I just pulled the fuse.  This weirdness had started when 
we were on our summer cruise.  So, I had a replacement switch on board. I 
replaced the switch, but may have screwed the wiring up.  It ran, but did not 
shut down.  So, as I have been doing before when it would not shut down, I 
cycled the manual switch and it shut down...but from the way it shut down, I 
suspect I fried something because the switch is not working at all now.  I 
checked the breaker panel and all's well there.  The in line fuse I installed 
with the switch is fine as well.The manual switch is still 
functional...thank god!  (see 2 below!)

2  Dripping dripless bearing

In March when I had her bottom painted I had the yard (Seaview West in Seattle) 
install a brand new dripless bearing.  As a result of the bilge switch issue I 
decided to check the bilge on the 2 hour run back yesterday.  The bilge  was 
substantially filled.  I traced the ingress to the dripless bearing which was 
spewing water everywhere.  Not enough to outpace the electric bilge pump or 
require whalegusher intervention.  After we docked I checked and the rotor was 
loose enough for me to turn it on the shaft.  I am getting the documentation 
from the yard to make sure I get the right parts, but as I understand it, I 
should not just tighten the set screws, but replace them to be sure they  bite, 
then use a 2nd set crew and lock tight to lock them in place.

Any thoughts on these electronic switches, alternatives, dripless bearing 
maintenance or anything else?

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi Tom,

I had a cycling problem with my bilge switch as well...it would take forever to 
switch off.  It finally fried itself after a season. When I installed my new 
one (different make and directly on the bottom the bilge like you did), I had 
the same problem! But then I played with the angle of the pump and set it so 
that the float end of the pump was slightly higher than the pump end. This will 
give you a clean shut-off.  I just used a shim under the pump base to achieve 
this.  

Mike
C&C 33 mk II
Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Landfall 35 - advice for someone thinking of buying

[Randall Walford via CnC-List]

Hi

For a singlehander on Lake Ontario who wants to cruise but doesn’t want a
teak palace slug – any advice as to what to look for?

Thanks for your help.

Randall
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Do you have a backflow valve in the discharge line?   Until I put one in,
the water in the hose would flow back in and start the pump again.  My line
from the pump to the back of the boat was about 15 feet long.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or

On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 1:32 PM, Michael Crombie via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Tom,
>
> I had a cycling problem with my bilge switch as well...it would take
> forever to switch off.  It finally fried itself after a season. When I
> installed my new one (different make and directly on the bottom the bilge
> like you did), I had the same problem! But then I played with the angle of
> the pump and set it so that the float end of the pump was slightly higher
> than the pump end. This will give you a clean shut-off.  I just used a shim
> under the pump base to achieve this.
>
> Mike
> C&C 33 mk II
> Toronto
> Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
> Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

No, no backflow valve.  That was going to be my next attempt to fix the problem 
if changing the pump angle didn't work. 


Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.

-Original Message-
From: Fred Hazzard 
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 13:49:12 
To: ; 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless

Do you have a backflow valve in the discharge line?   Until I put one in,
the water in the hose would flow back in and start the pump again.  My line
from the pump to the back of the boat was about 15 feet long.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or

On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 1:32 PM, Michael Crombie via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Tom,
>
> I had a cycling problem with my bilge switch as well...it would take
> forever to switch off.  It finally fried itself after a season. When I
> installed my new one (different make and directly on the bottom the bilge
> like you did), I had the same problem! But then I played with the angle of
> the pump and set it so that the float end of the pump was slightly higher
> than the pump end. This will give you a clean shut-off.  I just used a shim
> under the pump base to achieve this.
>
> Mike
> C&C 33 mk II
> Toronto
> Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
> Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Spewing dripless

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Tom,

I had the same symptoms on Cat’s Paw last fall.  Turned out that the rubber 
bellows was probably quite old and was very stiff.  You might consider a new 
bellows and SS rotor from PYI.  They also sell an additional SS clamp which is 
attached just in front of the rotor and which clamps onto the shaft, like a 
zinc anode on the prop shaft.  So it is a good safety that does not depend on 
the set screws.  A pain to replace the bellows but it completely solved the 
problem.  PYI recommends changing the bellows every few years.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> 2  Dripping dripless bearing
> 
> In March when I had her bottom painted I had the yard (Seaview West 
> in Seattle) install a brand new dripless bearing.  As a result of the 
> bilge switch issue I decided to check the bilge on the 2 hour run 
> back yesterday.  The bilge  was substantially filled.  I traced the 
> ingress to the dripless bearing which was spewing water 
> everywhere.  Not enough to outpace the electric bilge pump or require 
> whalegusher intervention.  After we docked I checked and the rotor 
> was loose enough for me to turn it on the shaft.  I am getting the 
> documentation from the yard to make sure I get the right parts, but 
> as I understand it, I should not just tighten the set screws, but 
> replace them to be sure they  bite, then use a 2nd set crew and lock 
> tight to lock them in place.

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 105, Issue 29

[Douglas via CnC-List]

Pierre
Three of us, wow
She be a full fin keel.
How about yours
Larry

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 11:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 105, Issue 29

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
cnc-list@cnc-list.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com

You can reach the person managing the list at
cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than
"Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1.  Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3 (Doug Allardyce)
   2. Re:  Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3 (Jake Brodersen)
   3. Re:  thread reply and rod rigging (Ron Casciato)
   4. Re:  Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3 (Bruno Lachance)
   5. Re:  Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3 (D Harben)
   6. Re:  Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3 (Richard N. Bush)
   7. Re:  Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3 (Wally Bryant)
   8.  86 C&C MKIII 38-ft owner's manual (Douglas)
   9. Re:  86 C&C MKIII 38-ft owner's manual (Pierre Tremblay)


--

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 12:17:45 -0400
From: "Doug Allardyce" 
To: "CnC- List" 
Subject: Stus-List Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Has anyone out there done any reconstruction in that cavity under the mast
step where the keel bolt comes up. My mast step is solid, but I can't seem
to get the forward keel bolt tight enough. I dropped the keel last spring
and rebeded it with 5200 but the forward bolt still leaks after a hard race.


Doug
"Bullet"
C&C 35 MK 3, 1985
_/)~~~_/) 


-- next part --
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: winmail.dat
Type: application/ms-tnef
Size: 1708 bytes
Desc: not available
URL:
<http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20141013/7b
3f9556/attachment-0001.dat>

--

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 12:33:35 -0400
From: "Jake Brodersen" 
To: "'Doug Allardyce'" ,

Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3
Message-ID: <012c01cfe703$6f93a960$4ebafc20$@cox.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Doug,

How can you tell the forward keel bolt is leaking?  Is there seepage from
under the mast?

I went through a similar repair about ten years ago.  We dropped the keel,
drilled a large bore hole through the mast step and inserted a stainless
steel post (about 1 ?" in diameter).  The keel bolt now tries to compress
the post instead of the somewhat questionable filler that is found in the
mast step.  While my bilge is still always wet, my only issue is the
constant stink that the boat has.  When we dropped the keel the forward bolt
had a bunch of black water surrounding it.  The smell was horrible.

To further reduce any mast step problems, we installed a large ?" stainless
steel plate over the mast step to spread the load across several of the
cross members.  I do have some pictures to share offline.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
"Midnight Mistress"
C&C 35 Mk-III
Hampton VA




_
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug
Allardyce via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 12:18 PM
To: CnC- List
Subject: Stus-List Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3


Has anyone out there done any reconstruction in that cavity under the mast
step where the keel bolt comes up. My mast step is solid, but I can't seem
to get the forward keel bolt tight enough. I dropped the keel last spring
and rebeded it with 5200 but the forward bolt still leaks after a hard race.


Doug
"Bullet"
C&C 35 MK 3, 1985
_/)~~~_/) 

 << File: Untitled attachment 00291.txt >>
-- next part --
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: winmail.dat
Type: application/ms-tnef
Size: 6258 bytes
Desc: not available
URL:
<http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20141013/e6
ab64a3/attachment-0001.dat>

--

Message: 3
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 12:50:44 -0400
From: "Ron Casciato" 
To: "'Dennis C.'" ,  
Subject: Re: Stus-List thread reply and rod rigging
Message-ID: <091FB3258DE748AE8523F1BDB5CB1C7B@Aspire7736Z>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

David:  Just my 2 cents worth..

 

Since you're in Newport RI,

Re: Stus-List thread reply and rod rigging

[David Folsom via CnC-List]

I redid most of my rod rigging about 9 months ago on a 1981 C&C 36.
There are some things that you should get carefully checked out (which I
did not do prior to buying my boat). For example, my spreader tips were
really corroded, and had to be replaced.

In redoing the rod, we replaced the fittings on the mast that the rod
connects to. Per my rigger, these old nav tangs were much more prone to
fatigue than the newer ones.

In addition, the fittings at the spreader tips are no longer used. One
option was tip cups, which are pricey, another option was to switch to
continuous rigging, which was going to be complicated. The rigger I used
was able to come up with a third, much less expensive solution, which I
can't recall right now.

I wish I would have had my rigging surveyed prior to buying the boat. That
would have given me great leverage for negotiating a lower price.

as it was, I was able to redo all the rigging from the lower spreader up,
re-head the rest of the rigging, and re-head the backstay and add new
fittings.

the total was about $4000.

While this was being done, I was able to remove and inspect the chainplates
(which were fine)

It took me several meetings with the rigger and alot of homework on my part
to get this all done for the above price. But I am happy with the final
product and with the price.

Dave Folsom
1981 C&C 36 Rebel Maid
San Diego

On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 9:50 AM, Ron Casciato via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>   David:  Just my 2 cents worth..
>
>
>
> Since you’re in Newport RI, you have way more rigging expertise at your
> fingertips than most of us on this list.Newport is full of competition
> boats and riggers and such.  Find someone local and have them look at the
> rig.
>
>
>
> MY 38MKIIC is a 1977 vintage and has the original rod rigging that came
> with the boat.  My mast is, however, a Stearns’ mast instead of the
> standard C&C one.  I have had my mast down several times in the past 16
> years of ownership and I’ve also had the rigging checked each time.
> Regardless of mast manufacturer, rod rigging is still a better option from
> my perspective
>
>
>
> To date (now I’ve really jinxed it) it is in fine shape and I expect it to
> last a long time.
>
>
>
> We race this boat so it gets more stress than usual cruising does and
> still the rod is intact and healthy.
>
>
>
> Just for thought.
>
>
>
> Ron C.
>
> Impromptu
>
> C&C 38MKIIC….’77
>
>
>
> Incidentally………..they are making new C&C’s right down the road from
> Newport and you might drop in there to get an opinion.Principles there
> were related to the C&C production effort in RI back in the daythey
> should be great resources for you locally….
>
>
>  --
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis
> C. via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, October 13, 2014 10:57 AM
> *To:* David Dawes; CnClist
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List thread reply and rod rigging
>
>
>
> David,
>
> If you're looking at reheading all the rigging, think about pulling the
> rig, removing all the shrouds, coiling them up and taking them to a NavTec
> shop.  You can coil the rod to no LESS than 200 times diameter and strap it
> to an "X" made of 2 x 4's for transport.  UPS will ship it.
>
> You didn't say where you were.  There may be a NavTec shop near you. Throw
> it in a pickup and drive it there.
>
>
>
> Before you coil it, make a list of each rod and carefully measure the pin
> to pin distance.  That is, between the centers of the hole in each end.
> Also measure the pin diameters.  Now you have a record of the rig.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, Oct 12, 2014 at 7:19 AM, David Dawes via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi, can someone tell me how to reply to a thread?  Sorry, I can’t figure
> it out.  So I started a new one.
>
>
>
>
>
> Next I looked at a 1984 CNC 35 M3 yesterday.  Concerned about the rod
> rigging.  This boat is run down so I don’t expect a record of rigging
> inspection or service.
>
>
>
> A rigger friend recommended full replacement.
>
>
>
> Is this correct?  And what are alternatives?  What is a rod replacement
> cost approx?  And is a wire replacement smart/ advisable/ cost effective or
> too heavy?  Technology has moved ahead in 30 years.
>
>
>
> I love the boat layout etc.  But suspect rigging will kill my offshore
> pleasure!
>
>
>
> Many thanks,
>
>
>
> David.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> David Dawes
>
> Captain
>
> Newport, RI, USA
>
> +1(401)5854942
>
> dawes...@hotmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by

Stus-List Landfall 35 - advice for soomeone thinking of buying

[Randall Walford via CnC-List]

Josh

I am looking on a budget. I did look at a 37/40 in Hamilton recently but it
is way too big for me and the draft was something like 7 feet. Forget the
ICW or Bahamas…. A few years ago had a C&C 32 but found it was suited best
to weekends. The Landfall 35 seems to have more storage, larger galley,
etc. Used they seem to have a manageable price point also.

Randall
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Landfall 35 - advice for soomeone thinking of buying

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

No separate stand up shower though on the 35's or LF38's.  Washing down the
entire head is not my idea of enjoyable.  You might find an older 40 for
about half of what the 37+'s go for.  Or look at the 34/36 (34+).  It is
the 37+'s little brother.  They both perform almost equally.  The 30 is the
even littler brother but I don't remember if they have a separate stand up
shower.  The biggest blow to one's cruising kitty is staying in port for
the night.  So if overnight, week long or extended cruising is in the plans
then work towards complete autonomy.
On Oct 13, 2014 5:32 PM, "Randall Walford via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Josh
>
> I am looking on a budget. I did look at a 37/40 in Hamilton recently but
> it is way too big for me and the draft was something like 7 feet. Forget
> the ICW or Bahamas A few years ago had a C&C 32 but found it was suited
> best to weekends. The Landfall 35 seems to have more storage, larger
> galley, etc. Used they seem to have a manageable price point also.
>
> Randall
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List automatic bilge pump problems

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

Dennis, et al; for the bilge, is there an alternative to having a long 
discharge hose going to the stern? My pump works, and there has been a check 
valve put in by PO, but the long hose simply holds the water and the bilge pump 
can't do its job... thanks
 

Richard

Richard N. Bush
1985 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 
 
-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
To: Tom Buscaglia ; CnClist 
Sent: Mon, Oct 13, 2014 3:42 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless



If the set screws for the seal have a point, consider drilling a small detent 
in the shaft.  Install one set screw snugly to hold the flange in position, use 
a small drill to make the detent in the other hole.  Then install that set 
screw tightly with threadlocker.  Remove the first screw and make a detent for 
it.


Dennis C.



On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 2:21 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Went out over the week and had a great sail out, but some problems alongthe 
way.  But I have two maintanence issues.

1.  Automatic Bilge Switch problems

Alera is factory wired for a manual switch and then a hot lead to thebilge to 
use with the switch.  There was no auto switch on her whenwe got her a few 
years ago and since we keep her in the water all year, Ineeded to install one.  
I like state of the art electronics so Iwent with the fully electronic Ultima 
Bilge Pump Switch.  Instead ofmounting the switch to a 1/4" piece of plywood as 
instructed, Imounted it to the floor of the Bilge directly. which may be 
contributingto the bad cycling problem. The first one I installed started 
coming onand refusing to shut down until we cycled the manual switch.  Thisweek 
end it was so bad I just pulled the fuse.  This weirdness hadstarted when we 
were on our summer cruise.  So, I had a replacementswitch on board. I replaced 
the switch, but may have screwed the wiringup.  It ran, but did not shut down.  
So, as I have been doingbefore when it would not shut down, I cycled the manual 
switch and itshut down...but from the way it shut down, I suspect I fried 
somethingbecause the switch is not working at all now.  I checked the 
breakerpanel and all's well there.  The in line fuse I installed with theswitch 
is fine as well.The manual switch is stillfunctional...thank god!  (see 2 
below!)


2  Dripping dripless bearing

In March when I had her bottom painted I had the yard (Seaview West inSeattle) 
install a brand new dripless bearing.  As a result of thebilge switch issue I 
decided to check the bilge on the 2 hour run backyesterday.  The bilge  was 
substantially filled.  I tracedthe ingress to the dripless bearing which was 
spewing watereverywhere.  Not enough to outpace the electric bilge pump 
orrequire whalegusher intervention.  After we docked I checked and therotor was 
loose enough for me to turn it on the shaft.  I am gettingthe documentation 
from the yard to make sure I get the right parts, butas I understand it, I 
should not just tighten the set screws, but replacethem to be sure they  bite, 
then use a 2nd set crew and lock tightto lock them in place.

Any thoughts on these electronic switches, alternatives, dripless 
bearingmaintenance or anything else?

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com






___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List automatic bilge pump problems

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Sounds like something is wrong with the pump.  My check valve holds water
and the hose is propably as long as anyone's.  The pump has no problem.
Make sure you are using the correct diameter hose and minimizing other
possible restrictions such a kinks.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Oct 13, 2014 5:44 PM, "Richard N. Bush via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis, et al; for the bilge, is there an alternative to having a long
> discharge hose going to the stern? My pump works, and there has been a
> check valve put in by PO, but the long hose simply holds the water and the
> bilge pump can't do its job... thanks
>
>  Richard
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 1985 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584
>  2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> To: Tom Buscaglia ; CnClist 
> Sent: Mon, Oct 13, 2014 3:42 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless
>
>  If the set screws for the seal have a point, consider drilling a small
> detent in the shaft.  Install one set screw snugly to hold the flange in
> position, use a small drill to make the detent in the other hole.  Then
> install that set screw tightly with threadlocker.  Remove the first screw
> and make a detent for it.
>
>  Dennis C.
>
> On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 2:21 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>  Went out over the week and had a great sail out, but some problems along
>> the way.  But I have two maintanence issues.
>>
>> 1.  Automatic Bilge Switch problems
>>
>> Alera is factory wired for a manual switch and then a hot lead to the
>> bilge to use with the switch.  There was no auto switch on her when we got
>> her a few years ago and since we keep her in the water all year, I needed
>> to install one.  I like state of the art electronics so I went with the
>> fully electronic Ultima Bilge Pump Switch.  Instead of mounting the switch
>> to a 1/4" piece of plywood as instructed, I mounted it to the floor of the
>> Bilge directly. which may be contributing to the bad cycling problem. The
>> first one I installed started coming on and refusing to shut down until we
>> cycled the manual switch.  This week end it was so bad I just pulled the
>> fuse.  This weirdness had started when we were on our summer cruise.  So, I
>> had a replacement switch on board. I replaced the switch, but may have
>> screwed the wiring up.  It ran, but did not shut down.  So, as I have been
>> doing before when it would not shut down, I cycled the manual switch and it
>> shut down...but from the way it shut down, I suspect I fried something
>> because the switch is not working at all now.  I checked the breaker panel
>> and all's well there.  The in line fuse I installed with the switch is fine
>> as well.The manual switch is still functional...thank god!  (see 2
>> below!)
>>
>>
>> 2  Dripping dripless bearing
>>
>> In March when I had her bottom painted I had the yard (Seaview West in
>> Seattle) install a brand new dripless bearing.  As a result of the bilge
>> switch issue I decided to check the bilge on the 2 hour run back
>> yesterday.  The bilge  was substantially filled.  I traced the ingress to
>> the dripless bearing which was spewing water everywhere.  Not enough to
>> outpace the electric bilge pump or require whalegusher intervention.  After
>> we docked I checked and the rotor was loose enough for me to turn it on the
>> shaft.  I am getting the documentation from the yard to make sure I get the
>> right parts, but as I understand it, I should not just tighten the set
>> screws, but replace them to be sure they  bite, then use a 2nd set crew and
>> lock tight to lock them in place.
>>
>> Any thoughts on these electronic switches, alternatives, dripless bearing
>> maintenance or anything else?
>>
>> Tom B
>>   Tom Buscaglia
>> SV Alera
>> 1990 C&C 37+/40
>> Vashon Island WA
>> (206) 463-9200
>> www.sv-alera.com
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>   ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page
> at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list

Re: Stus-List automatic bilge pump problems

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

My primary pump (read – not the big one) is a Whale diaphragm pump which
lives in the head. There is a Y valve which when switched pumps out the sump
for the shower, which has never been used. This pumps out the side about a
third of the way back from the bow. I just replaced the hose to the pump
from the bilge, ¾” X 10 feet, and when it pumps with this diaphragm pump, it
doesn’t run back, which is a good feature.  Along with being able to pump
crap without screwing up the pump.

 

 

Bill  Coleman

C&C 39

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard
N. Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 5:44 PM
To: capt...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; t...@sv-alera.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List automatic bilge pump problems

 

Dennis, et al; for the bilge, is there an alternative to having a long
discharge hose going to the stern? My pump works, and there has been a check
valve put in by PO, but the long hose simply holds the water and the bilge
pump can't do its job... thanks

 

Richard


Richard N. Bush

1985 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
To: Tom Buscaglia ; CnClist 
Sent: Mon, Oct 13, 2014 3:42 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless

If the set screws for the seal have a point, consider drilling a small
detent in the shaft.  Install one set screw snugly to hold the flange in
position, use a small drill to make the detent in the other hole.  Then
install that set screw tightly with threadlocker.  Remove the first screw
and make a detent for it.

Dennis C.

 

On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 2:21 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List
 wrote:

Went out over the week and had a great sail out, but some problems along the
way.  But I have two maintanence issues.

1.  Automatic Bilge Switch problems

Alera is factory wired for a manual switch and then a hot lead to the bilge
to use with the switch.  There was no auto switch on her when we got her a
few years ago and since we keep her in the water all year, I needed to
install one.  I like state of the art electronics so I went with the fully
electronic Ultima Bilge Pump Switch.  Instead of mounting the switch to a
1/4" piece of plywood as instructed, I mounted it to the floor of the Bilge
directly. which may be contributing to the bad cycling problem. The first
one I installed started coming on and refusing to shut down until we cycled
the manual switch.  This week end it was so bad I just pulled the fuse.
This weirdness had started when we were on our summer cruise.  So, I had a
replacement switch on board. I replaced the switch, but may have screwed the
wiring up.  It ran, but did not shut down.  So, as I have been doing before
when it would not shut down, I cycled the manual switch and it shut
down...but from the way it shut down, I suspect I fried something because
the switch is not working at all now.  I checked the breaker panel and all's
well there.  The in line fuse I installed with the switch is fine as well.
The manual switch is still functional...thank god!  (see 2 below!)


2  Dripping dripless bearing

In March when I had her bottom painted I had the yard (Seaview West in
Seattle) install a brand new dripless bearing.  As a result of the bilge
switch issue I decided to check the bilge on the 2 hour run back yesterday.
The bilge  was substantially filled.  I traced the ingress to the dripless
bearing which was spewing water everywhere.  Not enough to outpace the
electric bilge pump or require whalegusher intervention.  After we docked I
checked and the rotor was loose enough for me to turn it on the shaft.  I am
getting the documentation from the yard to make sure I get the right parts,
but as I understand it, I should not just tighten the set screws, but
replace them to be sure they  bite, then use a 2nd set crew and lock tight
to lock them in place.

Any thoughts on these electronic switches, alternatives, dripless bearing
maintenance or anything else?

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com  



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
 
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc

Re: Stus-List automatic bilge pump problems

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Second the suggestion of a pump problem. 

 

My bilge filled up during a recent hard beat in the 4 foot chop we get in
the Neuse River (long story - my fault) and the pump was not putting water
overboard. I have a 1000 GPH Johnson cartridge style pump with about 24 feet
of hose that outputs under the toe rail on the starboard side near the
transom.

 

Pulled the cartridge out and found the impeller blocked with a wad of hair
like fibers. I'm told this is common if your shower drains into the bilge.
But in my case it was fine wood debris from a plywood backing plate for one
of the cockpit scuppers that I found was badly decayed with age and
exposure. Cleaned out the impeller (a couple of times) and used a shop vac
to get the rest of the debris out of the bilge, and the pump is working fine
now

 

Length of the hose should not be an issue if the head (height of the outlet
above the pump) is only 4 or 5 feet, as it is on most of our boats. Make
sure the outlet is at the top of the transom, not the bottom. A friend had a
hose failure on a bilge hose with outlet a couple of inches above the
waterline, and his boat almost sunk from seawater siphoning into the boat
when the stern squatted while motoring.

 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 5:50 PM
To: Richard N. Bush; C&C List
Subject: Re: Stus-List automatic bilge pump problems

 

Sounds like something is wrong with the pump.  My check valve holds water
and the hose is propably as long as anyone's.  The pump has no problem.
Make sure you are using the correct diameter hose and minimizing other
possible restrictions such a kinks.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Oct 13, 2014 5:44 PM, "Richard N. Bush via CnC-List"
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Dennis, et al; for the bilge, is there an alternative to having a long
discharge hose going to the stern? My pump works, and there has been a check
valve put in by PO, but the long hose simply holds the water and the bilge
pump can't do its job... thanks

 

Richard


Richard N. Bush

1985 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255  

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: Tom Buscaglia mailto:t...@sv-alera.com> >; CnClist
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Mon, Oct 13, 2014 3:42 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless

If the set screws for the seal have a point, consider drilling a small
detent in the shaft.  Install one set screw snugly to hold the flange in
position, use a small drill to make the detent in the other hole.  Then
install that set screw tightly with threadlocker.  Remove the first screw
and make a detent for it.

Dennis C.

 

On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 2:21 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Went out over the week and had a great sail out, but some problems along the
way.  But I have two maintanence issues.

1.  Automatic Bilge Switch problems

Alera is factory wired for a manual switch and then a hot lead to the bilge
to use with the switch.  There was no auto switch on her when we got her a
few years ago and since we keep her in the water all year, I needed to
install one.  I like state of the art electronics so I went with the fully
electronic Ultima Bilge Pump Switch.  Instead of mounting the switch to a
1/4" piece of plywood as instructed, I mounted it to the floor of the Bilge
directly. which may be contributing to the bad cycling problem. The first
one I installed started coming on and refusing to shut down until we cycled
the manual switch.  This week end it was so bad I just pulled the fuse.
This weirdness had started when we were on our summer cruise.  So, I had a
replacement switch on board. I replaced the switch, but may have screwed the
wiring up.  It ran, but did not shut down.  So, as I have been doing before
when it would not shut down, I cycled the manual switch and it shut
down...but from the way it shut down, I suspect I fried something because
the switch is not working at all now.  I checked the breaker panel and all's
well there.  The in line fuse I installed with the switch is fine as well.
The manual switch is still functional...thank god!  (see 2 below!)


2  Dripping dripless bearing

In March when I had her bottom painted I had the yard (Seaview West in
Seattle) install a brand new dripless bearing.  As a result of the bilge
switch issue I decided to check the bilge on the 2 hour run back yesterday.
The bilge  was substantially filled.  I traced the ingress to the dripless
bearing which was spewing water everywhere.  Not enough to outpace the
electric bilge pump or require whalegusher intervention.  After we docked I
checked and the rotor was loose enough for me to turn it on the shaft.  I am
getting t

Re: Stus-List 34+ deep draft

[David Blair via CnC-List]

I was in touch with the technical guy at Marsmetal (Bill Souter) and sent
him some photos. His opinion is that there has been some water seepage over
the years into the sand core which these keels have (I didn't know there was
one and neither did the yard here). He thought there could have been some
freezing in the past to account for the cracking - overall it seems to be
essentially cosmetic and we are going to clean it up, patch over it with
epoxy or mat or something the yard chooses.  I will keep an eye on it at
each haul out.  Marsmetal did offer to ship the keel there and repair it for
about $10,000 as long as there were no "extras"!  Needless to say we are
going to deal with it locally.  Ciao

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2014 3:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 34+ deep draft

 

Hi David, 

I have the wing keel and we saw  the same issue on starboard side while
doing the bottom job this spring. It was about  3/4 of the depth of the keel
if I remember right and couple drops worth, maybe a teaspoon or 2. 

The guy helping me with stripping the upteen coats of bottom paint pointed
it out to me, it kept new the paint for adhering properly on that spot (The
weep spot was the size of a pinhead). It would weep more heavily on hot days
if I remember right.  He said don't worry about it, He said that it was
quite common, innocuous, and most likely related to a small pocket
somewhere.  There was no sign of cracking anywhere on mine,

Since the boat was out for a couple more weeks after the last coat of paint
(While I was sanding / burnishing the bottom for speed) I kept an eye on it
and wiped it every time to see if it would subside.. About 3 days before
splashing it stopped (By then the boat had been out for a total of about 2.5
months) so I cleaned and repainted the spot.. It looked fine when we
launched it a few days later. 

I would not be surprised to see it come back at the next haul-out.. Again,
my guy said he's seen it many times over his 30+ years on the lake and has
not seen any ill effects resulting from it.

That corroborates the C&C guys'  purely cosmetic comment, I would not worry
too much about it. 

Best regards, 

Francois
1990 34+ "TakeFive" 
Lake Lanier, Georgia

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List automatic bilge pump problems

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

I don't trust check valves on bilge pumps. Had one stick shut while on a cruise 
and learn CYA course off of the west coast of Vancouver Island. Once unstuck it 
worked fine again, but no idea why it stuck in the first place. Tricky to 
diagnose and unpleasant mucking around in the bilge but at least we were not 
far from a suitable anchorage. 

Steve Thomas
  - Original Message - 
  From: Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
  To: capt...@gmail.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; t...@sv-alera.com 
  Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 5:44 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List automatic bilge pump problems


  Dennis, et al; for the bilge, is there an alternative to having a long 
discharge hose going to the stern? My pump works, and there has been a check 
valve put in by PO, but the long hose simply holds the water and the bilge pump 
can't do its job... thanks

  Richard

  Richard N. Bush
  1985 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584 

  2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
  Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
  502-584-7255


  -Original Message-
  From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
  To: Tom Buscaglia ; CnClist 
  Sent: Mon, Oct 13, 2014 3:42 pm
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless


  If the set screws for the seal have a point, consider drilling a small detent 
in the shaft.  Install one set screw snugly to hold the flange in position, use 
a small drill to make the detent in the other hole.  Then install that set 
screw tightly with threadlocker.  Remove the first screw and make a detent for 
it.


  Dennis C.



  On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 2:21 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Went out over the week and had a great sail out, but some problems along 
the way.  But I have two maintanence issues.

1.  Automatic Bilge Switch problems

Alera is factory wired for a manual switch and then a hot lead to the bilge 
to use with the switch.  There was no auto switch on her when we got her a few 
years ago and since we keep her in the water all year, I needed to install one. 
 I like state of the art electronics so I went with the fully electronic Ultima 
Bilge Pump Switch.  Instead of mounting the switch to a 1/4" piece of plywood 
as instructed, I mounted it to the floor of the Bilge directly. which may be 
contributing to the bad cycling problem. The first one I installed started 
coming on and refusing to shut down until we cycled the manual switch.  This 
week end it was so bad I just pulled the fuse.  This weirdness had started when 
we were on our summer cruise.  So, I had a replacement switch on board. I 
replaced the switch, but may have screwed the wiring up.  It ran, but did not 
shut down.  So, as I have been doing before when it would not shut down, I 
cycled the manual switch and it shut down...but from the way it shut down, I 
suspect I fried something because the switch is not working at all now.  I 
checked the breaker panel and all's well there.  The in line fuse I installed 
with the switch is fine as well.The manual switch is still 
functional...thank god!  (see 2 below!)


2  Dripping dripless bearing

In March when I had her bottom painted I had the yard (Seaview West in 
Seattle) install a brand new dripless bearing.  As a result of the bilge switch 
issue I decided to check the bilge on the 2 hour run back yesterday.  The bilge 
 was substantially filled.  I traced the ingress to the dripless bearing which 
was spewing water everywhere.  Not enough to outpace the electric bilge pump or 
require whalegusher intervention.  After we docked I checked and the rotor was 
loose enough for me to turn it on the shaft.  I am getting the documentation 
from the yard to make sure I get the right parts, but as I understand it, I 
should not just tighten the set screws, but replace them to be sure they  bite, 
then use a 2nd set crew and lock tight to lock them in place.

Any thoughts on these electronic switches, alternatives, dripless bearing 
maintenance or anything else?

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com





___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



--


  ___
  This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mai

Re: Stus-List automatic bilge pump problems

[Alan Bergen via CnC-List]

Tom: 

Your electronic bilge pump switch shouldn't be mounted to the bottom of the 
bilge. Try lifting it a bit to see whether it solves your problem. If the 
sensor on the switch is always in the water, it will never shut off, and the 
bilge pump might not be getting the water low enough. These switches are 
designed to run for awhile, after the bilge is empty. That's unlike float 
switches which shut off as soon as the water level lowers the switch. Perhaps 
you're not giving the switch enough time to shut off. 

Alan Bergen 
35 Mk III Thirsty 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Replacing Jib Halyard Sheaves on my C&C 29-1

[Ian Matthew via CnC-List]

Greetings from the San Francisco Bay.  I have been very quiet on this list
for a while but now I am need of some advice from this very knowledgeable
group.

I have replaced my jib halyards with Endura and have peeled back the cover
for about the length of the forestay.  Unfortunately the halyard falls off
the sheave and on inspection the sheaves are the original double-grooved
sheave for wire halyards.  I have a roller furling setup with twin groove
foil and for longer races where the wind strength can change, I have tried
dropping the upper furler and setting up to peel sails if necessary.  On
the very few occasions I have tried this, the halyard has dropped off the
sheave and you know the rest!

I have tried putting nylon spacers between the sheaves without success, so
I feel the only solution is to replace the sheaves.  However, this is a
bigger problem since I will have to lift the mast cap to get at the rod
supporting the sheaves.  And since the forestay and the backstay are
attached to mast cap, I think the only way to do this is to unstep the mast.

Somebody suggested that an alternative is to use a crane and send the
rigger up the crane - I think it would be less expensive and better to have
the mast out of the boat.

I have never removed a keel-stepped mast before - any guidance in getting
ready to do this, and any other advice would be really appreciated.  Thanks.

Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento"  C&C 29-1
San Francisco Bay
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Landfall 35 Owners - showering - how is it?

[Randall Walford via CnC-List]

With the Landfall 35, there apparently is no separate shower. So how do
owners manage?

Also, is it the same hull as the 35-III?

Thanks

Randall Walford
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Replacing Jib Halyard Sheaves on my C&C 29-1

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I apologize for my ignorance since I don't own a 29-1 but most of the
sheave and axle arrangments I've worked on did not require removal of the
mast cap.  The arrangement I've seen has the axle (a smooth and straight
stainless rod) pass completely through the mast and kept in place on both
sides by a stainless steel plate.  The plate that covers the axle hole is
held into the mast with a single screw.

As for skipping off the sheave it sounds like the sheave box is too wide or
needs a divider guide.  You are on the right track though because the
sheaves should be matched to the type and diameter of halyard.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Oct 13, 2014 7:46 PM, "Ian Matthew via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Greetings from the San Francisco Bay.  I have been very quiet on this list
> for a while but now I am need of some advice from this very knowledgeable
> group.
>
> I have replaced my jib halyards with Endura and have peeled back the cover
> for about the length of the forestay.  Unfortunately the halyard falls off
> the sheave and on inspection the sheaves are the original double-grooved
> sheave for wire halyards.  I have a roller furling setup with twin groove
> foil and for longer races where the wind strength can change, I have tried
> dropping the upper furler and setting up to peel sails if necessary.  On
> the very few occasions I have tried this, the halyard has dropped off the
> sheave and you know the rest!
>
> I have tried putting nylon spacers between the sheaves without success, so
> I feel the only solution is to replace the sheaves.  However, this is a
> bigger problem since I will have to lift the mast cap to get at the rod
> supporting the sheaves.  And since the forestay and the backstay are
> attached to mast cap, I think the only way to do this is to unstep the mast.
>
> Somebody suggested that an alternative is to use a crane and send the
> rigger up the crane - I think it would be less expensive and better to have
> the mast out of the boat.
>
> I have never removed a keel-stepped mast before - any guidance in getting
> ready to do this, and any other advice would be really appreciated.  Thanks.
>
> Ian Matthew
> "Siento el Viento"  C&C 29-1
> San Francisco Bay
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Re 2. No question that you should replace the set screws (they work once and
that's it). However, in the meantime, you can reposition the "rotor" and
secure it with the existing set screws plus an extra protection. The
simplest might be a hose clamp (I would not recommend to keep it there, but
it would do for a few days). A better solution is a retention collar from
PYI (the makers of the dripless shaft seal) -
http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=src
 &action=main . It
has much better retention bolts. This is how it looks on my boat:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9p3y01pzqwpj3dt/IMAG0158.jpg?dl=0 .

 

Btw. check that your compression of the bellows is correct. When I had my
PSS installed, the compression was not enough and I was spewing water (not
much but noticeable).

 

Another btw. Make sure that you are not dripping from the venting tube. To
start with, you have to run it high enough (it is quite surprising how high
is the water level when you are in the engine compartment). But worse - if
you do a lot of gear shifting (forward - reverse etc.) you can push quite a
bit of water through that venting tube. My theory is that when you reverse,
the prop sends quite a bit of water towards the stern tube and the pressure
rises and the water goes up in the venting tube. If you do a lot of
manoeuvring, it will eventually spill over from the end of it.

 

Good luck

 

Marek

s/v "Legato"

in Ottawa

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 3:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Spewing dripless

 

Went out over the week and had a great sail out, but some problems along the
way.  But I have two maintanence issues.

1.  Automatic Bilge Switch problems

Alera is factory wired for a manual switch and then a hot lead to the bilge
to use with the switch.  There was no auto switch on her when we got her a
few years ago and since we keep her in the water all year, I needed to
install one.  I like state of the art electronics so I went with the fully
electronic Ultima Bilge Pump Switch.  Instead of mounting the switch to a
1/4" piece of plywood as instructed, I mounted it to the floor of the Bilge
directly. which may be contributing to the bad cycling problem. The first
one I installed started coming on and refusing to shut down until we cycled
the manual switch.  This week end it was so bad I just pulled the fuse.
This weirdness had started when we were on our summer cruise.  So, I had a
replacement switch on board. I replaced the switch, but may have screwed the
wiring up.  It ran, but did not shut down.  So, as I have been doing before
when it would not shut down, I cycled the manual switch and it shut
down...but from the way it shut down, I suspect I fried something because
the switch is not working at all now.  I checked the breaker panel and all's
well there.  The in line fuse I installed with the switch is fine as well.
The manual switch is still functional...thank god!  (see 2 below!)


2  Dripping dripless bearing

In March when I had her bottom painted I had the yard (Seaview West in
Seattle) install a brand new dripless bearing.  As a result of the bilge
switch issue I decided to check the bilge on the 2 hour run back yesterday.
The bilge  was substantially filled.  I traced the ingress to the dripless
bearing which was spewing water everywhere.  Not enough to outpace the
electric bilge pump or require whalegusher intervention.  After we docked I
checked and the rotor was loose enough for me to turn it on the shaft.  I am
getting the documentation from the yard to make sure I get the right parts,
but as I understand it, I should not just tighten the set screws, but
replace them to be sure they  bite, then use a 2nd set crew and lock tight
to lock them in place.

Any thoughts on these electronic switches, alternatives, dripless bearing
maintenance or anything else?

Tom B



Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com  


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Replacing Jib Halyard Sheaves on my C&C 29-1

[D Harben via CnC-List]

Hi Ian,
 M I did this job on my 29-1. Mast down, mast cap off. dollars for Harken 
halyard sheaves.  The fit required some minor widening and cleaning up of the 
cast.   This was part of a program to ease halyard control and effort.  
Replacement mast base blocks, organizers and clutches added up to a Beach 
Holiday just for the parts.

Don
Viking 34
like to buy a nice 29-1 with cruising keel all on an aluminum launch ramp 
trailer!


> On Oct 13, 2014, at 7:46 PM, Ian Matthew via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Greetings from the San Francisco Bay.  I have been very quiet on this list 
> for a while but now I am need of some advice from this very knowledgeable 
> group.
> 
> I have replaced my jib halyards with Endura and have peeled back the cover 
> for about the length of the forestay.  Unfortunately the halyard falls off 
> the sheave and on inspection the sheaves are the original double-grooved 
> sheave for wire halyards.  I have a roller furling setup with twin groove 
> foil and for longer races where the wind strength can change, I have tried 
> dropping the upper furler and setting up to peel sails if necessary.  On the 
> very few occasions I have tried this, the halyard has dropped off the sheave 
> and you know the rest!
> 
> I have tried putting nylon spacers between the sheaves without success, so I 
> feel the only solution is to replace the sheaves.  However, this is a bigger 
> problem since I will have to lift the mast cap to get at the rod supporting 
> the sheaves.  And since the forestay and the backstay are attached to mast 
> cap, I think the only way to do this is to unstep the mast.
> 
> Somebody suggested that an alternative is to use a crane and send the rigger 
> up the crane - I think it would be less expensive and better to have the mast 
> out of the boat.
> 
> I have never removed a keel-stepped mast before - any guidance in getting 
> ready to do this, and any other advice would be really appreciated.  Thanks.
> 
> Ian Matthew
> "Siento el Viento"  C&C 29-1
> San Francisco Bay
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Replacing Jib Halyard Sheaves on my C&C 29-1

[D Harben via CnC-List]

Hi

The 29-1 does not have the side access ports to the sheave axels. Argh. 
mast cap off While at I rewired the mast lighting, VHF etc as a bundle

Don



> On Oct 13, 2014, at 8:08 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I apologize for my ignorance since I don't own a 29-1 but most of the sheave 
> and axle arrangments I've worked on did not require removal of the mast cap.  
> The arrangement I've seen has the axle (a smooth and straight stainless rod) 
> pass completely through the mast and kept in place on both sides by a 
> stainless steel plate.  The plate that covers the axle hole is held into the 
> mast with a single screw.
> 
> As for skipping off the sheave it sounds like the sheave box is too wide or 
> needs a divider guide.  You are on the right track though because the sheaves 
> should be matched to the type and diameter of halyard.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
>> On Oct 13, 2014 7:46 PM, "Ian Matthew via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> Greetings from the San Francisco Bay.  I have been very quiet on this list 
>> for a while but now I am need of some advice from this very knowledgeable 
>> group.
>> 
>> I have replaced my jib halyards with Endura and have peeled back the cover 
>> for about the length of the forestay.  Unfortunately the halyard falls off 
>> the sheave and on inspection the sheaves are the original double-grooved 
>> sheave for wire halyards.  I have a roller furling setup with twin groove 
>> foil and for longer races where the wind strength can change, I have tried 
>> dropping the upper furler and setting up to peel sails if necessary.  On the 
>> very few occasions I have tried this, the halyard has dropped off the sheave 
>> and you know the rest!
>> 
>> I have tried putting nylon spacers between the sheaves without success, so I 
>> feel the only solution is to replace the sheaves.  However, this is a bigger 
>> problem since I will have to lift the mast cap to get at the rod supporting 
>> the sheaves.  And since the forestay and the backstay are attached to mast 
>> cap, I think the only way to do this is to unstep the mast.
>> 
>> Somebody suggested that an alternative is to use a crane and send the rigger 
>> up the crane - I think it would be less expensive and better to have the 
>> mast out of the boat.
>> 
>> I have never removed a keel-stepped mast before - any guidance in getting 
>> ready to do this, and any other advice would be really appreciated.  Thanks.
>> 
>> Ian Matthew
>> "Siento el Viento"  C&C 29-1
>> San Francisco Bay
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Replacing Jib Halyard Sheaves on my C&C 29-1

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

I rebuilt The mast on my 26 a couple of years ago.
Mast cap had to come off to get access to the sheaves like yours.
I got 3 custom sheaves built from here:
http://www.zephyrwerks.com/
$38 each - delrin with brass bushings - perfect fit.

sam :-)
C&C 26  Liquorice
Ghost Lake  Alberta


On 2014-10-13, at 7:20 PM, D Harben via CnC-List  wrote:

> Hi
> 
> The 29-1 does not have the side access ports to the sheave axels. Argh. 
> mast cap off While at I rewired the mast lighting, VHF etc as a bundle
> 
> Don
> 
> 
> 
> On Oct 13, 2014, at 8:08 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>> I apologize for my ignorance since I don't own a 29-1 but most of the sheave 
>> and axle arrangments I've worked on did not require removal of the mast cap. 
>>  The arrangement I've seen has the axle (a smooth and straight stainless 
>> rod) pass completely through the mast and kept in place on both sides by a 
>> stainless steel plate.  The plate that covers the axle hole is held into the 
>> mast with a single screw.
>> 
>> As for skipping off the sheave it sounds like the sheave box is too wide or 
>> needs a divider guide.  You are on the right track though because the 
>> sheaves should be matched to the type and diameter of halyard.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
>> On Oct 13, 2014 7:46 PM, "Ian Matthew via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> Greetings from the San Francisco Bay.  I have been very quiet on this list 
>> for a while but now I am need of some advice from this very knowledgeable 
>> group.
>> 
>> I have replaced my jib halyards with Endura and have peeled back the cover 
>> for about the length of the forestay.  Unfortunately the halyard falls off 
>> the sheave and on inspection the sheaves are the original double-grooved 
>> sheave for wire halyards.  I have a roller furling setup with twin groove 
>> foil and for longer races where the wind strength can change, I have tried 
>> dropping the upper furler and setting up to peel sails if necessary.  On the 
>> very few occasions I have tried this, the halyard has dropped off the sheave 
>> and you know the rest!
>> 
>> I have tried putting nylon spacers between the sheaves without success, so I 
>> feel the only solution is to replace the sheaves.  However, this is a bigger 
>> problem since I will have to lift the mast cap to get at the rod supporting 
>> the sheaves.  And since the forestay and the backstay are attached to mast 
>> cap, I think the only way to do this is to unstep the mast.
>> 
>> Somebody suggested that an alternative is to use a crane and send the rigger 
>> up the crane - I think it would be less expensive and better to have the 
>> mast out of the boat.
>> 
>> I have never removed a keel-stepped mast before - any guidance in getting 
>> ready to do this, and any other advice would be really appreciated.  Thanks.
>> 
>> Ian Matthew
>> "Siento el Viento"  C&C 29-1
>> San Francisco Bay
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hey guys,

That seems like good idea for a song...

I've looked at love that way.

Cheers, Russ


At 11:47 AM 13/10/2014, you wrote:

I really don’t know clouds… at all.   :^)

Haulout tomorrow…   :^(

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Oct 13, 2014, at 12:57 PM, Wally Bryant via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:



I've looked at clouds from both sides now...

Wal
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com