Re: Stus-List Looking for sails

2014-07-30 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Steve

I have a tape drive main and am very happy with it.  It is a racing sail.
 I am unsure of the age.  I did have a small tear repaired and new webbing
put on the corners after the Bermuda race.  The local UK loft has undergone
a bunch of management changes.  I don't knoww where the sails are made.

Joel
Annapolis
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Re: Stus-List Looking for sails

2014-07-30 Thread John Pennie via CnC-List
A fellow at my club has them on his Tartan 37.  He swears by them and does very 
well on the course.  They’ve been around for a while like North’s 3DL so they 
pretty much have the bugs out. 

John

On Jul 29, 2014, at 10:23 PM, Stephen Thorne via CnC-List 
 wrote:

> 
> Fellow C&C'rs,
> 
> I am in the market for a new suit of sails for my 1990 34+.  I like what I 
> have read about UK Tape Drive sails and was wondering if anyone has owned 
> this brand and could give feedback?  
> 
> Also I would consider a used set of racing sails if anyone has a set for this 
> particular model.  
> 
> Stephen Thorne
> C&C 34+
> Deja Vu
> 
> 
> 
> On Jul 27, 2014, at 8:45 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
>> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>>  cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>>  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>>  cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>>  cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>> 
>> 
>> Today's Topics:
>> 
>>  1.  remove head sink on c n c 32? (McElwreath, Daniel)
>>  2.  tight reaching (Pete Shelquist)
>>  3. Re:  tight reaching (Josh Muckley)
>>  4. Re:  tight reaching (Chuck S)
>>  5. Re:  tight reaching (cenel...@aol.com)
>>  6. Re:  tight reaching (Andrew Burton)
>>  7. Re:  Stus-Maine Cruise (Richard N. Bush)
>>  8. Re:  Stus-Maine Cruise (davidrisch75)
>>  9. Re:  tight reaching (Dennis C.)
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 16:23:43 +
>> From: "McElwreath, Daniel" 
>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>> Subject: Stus-List remove head sink on c n c 32?
>> Message-ID:
>>  <74ac7c951a8a93469c6e9f035d118c56223e6...@exchmbx1.unv.campus.wpunj.edu>
>>  
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>> 
>> Before going in the water this Spring I replaced all the  waste hose and ran 
>> thru the vanity in head.  This week I had to rebuild the par shower drain 
>> pump so I had to remove that.  My question:  Can the head sink be removed to 
>> allow access?  Working thru the small vanity door is an absolute BEAR.  I 
>> have been reluctant to try and put the pump back, only because it is such a 
>> pain.  I was even thinking of cutting the vanity wall out, including the 
>> little door, and then reglassing when finished.  But I know what that would 
>> look like.  Thanks for any advice.  Dan Mc on Tively II in City Island, NY
>> -- next part --
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL: 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 12:01:51 -0500
>> From: "Pete Shelquist" 
>> To: 
>> Subject: Stus-List tight reaching
>> Message-ID: <002201cfa9bc$779960c0$66cc2240$@shelqu...@comcast.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>> 
>> I recently had a mid-distance race in which a majority of the race was tight
>> reaching in flat water, 10-15 breeze.   We had our heavy #1 up.  A number of
>> boats (C&C39, C&C38, Sabre 36, Tarten Ten) worked up on us pretty well in
>> those conditions.   I obviously need to trim the sails differently and am
>> looking for suggestions.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> We mostly eased the sheet and moved the car forward, but we did try barber
>> hauling.  We did not try bringing the clew right out to the toe rail.  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Any thoughts or suggestions is appreciated.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Pete
>> 
>> 1984 C&C 37
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- next part --
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL: 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 3
>> Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 13:44:34 -0400
>> From: Josh Muckley 
>> To: "C&C List" ,  Pete Shelquist
>>  
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List tight reaching
>> Message-ID:
>>  
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>> 
>> How much backstay?  How much babystay?  How tight was the outhaul and
>> halyards?  Speed bubble in the main?  How much heel?  How much rudder?  How
>> much weight on board?  Crew hiking out?  When was the bottom last cleaned?
>> What type of paint?  You might need to come off the wind just a few degrees
>> and/or let the sails breath just a bit.
>> 
>> At 10-15 kts you should have been able to reach hull speed...~6-7kts.  If
>> not then something was wrong.  You might even want to consider a #2 if you
>> were being blown over too much.
>> 
>> As you can see there is just no simple answer.  Keep racing and you'll
>> learn all of those minute characteristics.
>> 
>>

Re: Stus-List Looking for sails

2014-07-30 Thread Monty Schumpert via CnC-List
Steve,

I have UK sails on my 1991 34+. The main is dacron and the genoa is a 135 Tape 
Drive, both built by Scott Allen when he had the UK loft in Annapolis. Both 
sails have been great — the genoa in particular has been a fast sail and has 
retained its shape very well for over 7 years, although I’m not a racer. As 
Joel said, the management has changed and Scott is now with North, so I don’t 
know the status at UK, but I have been very pleased with their product.

Monty
Scandia
1991 C&C 34+
Annapolis, MD


On Jul 29, 2014, at 10:23 PM, Stephen Thorne via CnC-List 
 wrote:

> 
> Fellow C&C'rs,
> 
> I am in the market for a new suit of sails for my 1990 34+.  I like what I 
> have read about UK Tape Drive sails and was wondering if anyone has owned 
> this brand and could give feedback?  
> 
> Also I would consider a used set of racing sails if anyone has a set for this 
> particular model.  
> 
> Stephen Thorne
> C&C 34+
> Deja Vu
> 
> 
> 
> On Jul 27, 2014, at 8:45 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
>> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>>  cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>>  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>>  cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>>  cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>> 
>> 
>> Today's Topics:
>> 
>>  1.  remove head sink on c n c 32? (McElwreath, Daniel)
>>  2.  tight reaching (Pete Shelquist)
>>  3. Re:  tight reaching (Josh Muckley)
>>  4. Re:  tight reaching (Chuck S)
>>  5. Re:  tight reaching (cenel...@aol.com)
>>  6. Re:  tight reaching (Andrew Burton)
>>  7. Re:  Stus-Maine Cruise (Richard N. Bush)
>>  8. Re:  Stus-Maine Cruise (davidrisch75)
>>  9. Re:  tight reaching (Dennis C.)
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 16:23:43 +
>> From: "McElwreath, Daniel" 
>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>> Subject: Stus-List remove head sink on c n c 32?
>> Message-ID:
>>  <74ac7c951a8a93469c6e9f035d118c56223e6...@exchmbx1.unv.campus.wpunj.edu>
>>  
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>> 
>> Before going in the water this Spring I replaced all the  waste hose and ran 
>> thru the vanity in head.  This week I had to rebuild the par shower drain 
>> pump so I had to remove that.  My question:  Can the head sink be removed to 
>> allow access?  Working thru the small vanity door is an absolute BEAR.  I 
>> have been reluctant to try and put the pump back, only because it is such a 
>> pain.  I was even thinking of cutting the vanity wall out, including the 
>> little door, and then reglassing when finished.  But I know what that would 
>> look like.  Thanks for any advice.  Dan Mc on Tively II in City Island, NY
>> -- next part --
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL: 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 12:01:51 -0500
>> From: "Pete Shelquist" 
>> To: 
>> Subject: Stus-List tight reaching
>> Message-ID: <002201cfa9bc$779960c0$66cc2240$@shelqu...@comcast.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>> 
>> I recently had a mid-distance race in which a majority of the race was tight
>> reaching in flat water, 10-15 breeze.   We had our heavy #1 up.  A number of
>> boats (C&C39, C&C38, Sabre 36, Tarten Ten) worked up on us pretty well in
>> those conditions.   I obviously need to trim the sails differently and am
>> looking for suggestions.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> We mostly eased the sheet and moved the car forward, but we did try barber
>> hauling.  We did not try bringing the clew right out to the toe rail.  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Any thoughts or suggestions is appreciated.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Pete
>> 
>> 1984 C&C 37
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- next part --
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL: 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 3
>> Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 13:44:34 -0400
>> From: Josh Muckley 
>> To: "C&C List" ,  Pete Shelquist
>>  
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List tight reaching
>> Message-ID:
>>  
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>> 
>> How much backstay?  How much babystay?  How tight was the outhaul and
>> halyards?  Speed bubble in the main?  How much heel?  How much rudder?  How
>> much weight on board?  Crew hiking out?  When was the bottom last cleaned?
>> What type of paint?  You might need to come off the wind just a few degrees
>> and/or let the sails breath just a bit.
>> 
>> A

Stus-List Stainless Grab Rails & New Stanchion

2014-07-30 Thread Stephen Thorne via CnC-List



Guys,

I need to replace on of my stanchions which got bent in a not so sexy departure 
from a dock recently.  Any ideas where I can source stanchions same as my 1990 
34+?

Also I am interested in replacing the old teak grab rails with a stainless rail 
and wanted to know if anyone has done this and if so where did they go to have 
said rail made?

Steve Thorne
Deja Vu
C&C 34+
On Jul 16, 2014, at 6:20 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>   http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>   cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>   cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  keel boats (Chuck S)
>   2. Re:  dual ownership? (Chuck S)
>   3. Re:  bonding strap question (Chuck S)
>   4. Re:  bonding strap question (Chuck S)
>   5. Re:  Stanchion inserts (Chuck S)
>   6. Re:  Got mildew? (Chuck S)
>   7.  Solar Panels & Clear Plastic Windows (sam.c.sal...@gmail.com)
>   8. Re:  Solar Panels & Clear Plastic Windows (Rich Knowles)
>   9. Re:  bonding strap question (Rich Knowles)
>  10. Re:  bonding strap question (Ken Heaton)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2014 23:28:29 + (UTC)
> From: Chuck S 
> To: Bev Parslow ,"CNC boat owners, cnc-list"
>   
> Subject: Re: Stus-List keel boats
> Message-ID:
>   <580001928.25379703.1405466909450.javamail.r...@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I like the boat on land to tighten the keel bolts/nuts. You are using the 
> force, gravity to help compress boat and keel together that way. In the 
> water, the keel weight is hanging on the bolts and gravity is working against 
> you. The builder put the keel on, on land. 
> 
> 
> 
> Chuck 
> Resolute 
> 1990 C&C 34R 
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 
> 
> - Original Message -
> 
> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
> To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
> Sent: Monday, July 14, 2014 12:42:50 PM 
> Subject: Stus-List keel boats 
> 
> The mast is coming out so would like the keel bolts checked. Does the boat 
> need to be on the hard or can I do it on the water? 
> 
> ___ 
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 
> 
> Email address: 
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at: 
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
> 
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 01:35:34 + (UTC)
> From: Chuck S 
> To: "DeYoung, Martin" ,  "CNC boat owners,
>   cnc-list" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List dual ownership?
> Message-ID:
>   <511723699.25432104.1405474534634.javamail.r...@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Martin, 
> I always enjoy your generous and sound advice. Tell John "hello" from New 
> Jersey Chuck. That daysail on Calypso was a highlight of my trip to Seattle. 
> You guys were so gracious to invite me, a stranger, aboard and I've since 
> taken another lister sailing w his family and just can't thank you enough for 
> your hospitality. 
> 
> Moved the boat close to Annapolis, and better sailing, and hope to return the 
> favor if either/both of you get East? 
> 
> BTW, Hope to take more listers sailing. Contact me if interested? 
> 
> Chuck 
> Resolute 
> 1990 C&C 34R 
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 
> 
> - Original Message -
> 
> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
> To: "Jimmy Kelly" , "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
>  
> Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2014 5:13:44 PM 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List dual ownership? 
> 
> 
> 
> Calypso has been co-owned for 15 years, and we (the co-owners) had a C&C 36 
> in a partnership for 7 years before that. 
> 
> 
> 
> The partnership agreement is similar to a real estate limited partnership 
> with a general partner (takes care of finances, insurance, taxes etc.) and a 
> limited partner. We started at 50/50 with a mechanism to compensate (with 
> ownership share) if one partner contribute more $$ over time. We have a 
> partnership[p checking account with auto deposit of monthly contribution. 
> 
> 
> 
> Scheduling has rarely been an issue but we had a practice of alternating 
> years for first pick of major holidays etc. Lately we have been setting up 
> the race sched in January and discussing what other events/cruises may be 
> interesting. Both our

Re: Stus-List Stainless Grab Rails & New Stanchion

2014-07-30 Thread Paul Fountain via CnC-List
Steve,

Check with South Shore http://southshoreyachts.com , Rob has most parts ...

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 30, 2014, at 3:01 PM, "Stephen Thorne via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guys,
> 
> I need to replace on of my stanchions which got bent in a not so sexy 
> departure from a dock recently.  Any ideas where I can source stanchions same 
> as my 1990 34+?
> 
> Also I am interested in replacing the old teak grab rails with a stainless 
> rail and wanted to know if anyone has done this and if so where did they go 
> to have said rail made?
> 
> Steve Thorne
> Deja Vu
> C&C 34+
>> On Jul 16, 2014, at 6:20 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> 
>> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>> 
>> 
>> Today's Topics:
>> 
>>  1. Re:  keel boats (Chuck S)
>>  2. Re:  dual ownership? (Chuck S)
>>  3. Re:  bonding strap question (Chuck S)
>>  4. Re:  bonding strap question (Chuck S)
>>  5. Re:  Stanchion inserts (Chuck S)
>>  6. Re:  Got mildew? (Chuck S)
>>  7.  Solar Panels & Clear Plastic Windows (sam.c.sal...@gmail.com)
>>  8. Re:  Solar Panels & Clear Plastic Windows (Rich Knowles)
>>  9. Re:  bonding strap question (Rich Knowles)
>> 10. Re:  bonding strap question (Ken Heaton)
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2014 23:28:29 + (UTC)
>> From: Chuck S 
>> To: Bev Parslow ,"CNC boat owners, cnc-list"
>>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List keel boats
>> Message-ID:
>><580001928.25379703.1405466909450.javamail.r...@comcast.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> I like the boat on land to tighten the keel bolts/nuts. You are using the 
>> force, gravity to help compress boat and keel together that way. In the 
>> water, the keel weight is hanging on the bolts and gravity is working 
>> against you. The builder put the keel on, on land. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Chuck 
>> Resolute 
>> 1990 C&C 34R 
>> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 
>> 
>> - Original Message -
>> 
>> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
>> To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
>> Sent: Monday, July 14, 2014 12:42:50 PM 
>> Subject: Stus-List keel boats 
>> 
>> The mast is coming out so would like the keel bolts checked. Does the boat 
>> need to be on the hard or can I do it on the water? 
>> 
>> ___ 
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 
>> 
>> Email address: 
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>> page at: 
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
>> 
>> 
>> -- next part --
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL: 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 01:35:34 + (UTC)
>> From: Chuck S 
>> To: "DeYoung, Martin" ,"CNC boat owners,
>>cnc-list" 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List dual ownership?
>> Message-ID:
>><511723699.25432104.1405474534634.javamail.r...@comcast.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> Martin, 
>> I always enjoy your generous and sound advice. Tell John "hello" from New 
>> Jersey Chuck. That daysail on Calypso was a highlight of my trip to Seattle. 
>> You guys were so gracious to invite me, a stranger, aboard and I've since 
>> taken another lister sailing w his family and just can't thank you enough 
>> for your hospitality. 
>> 
>> Moved the boat close to Annapolis, and better sailing, and hope to return 
>> the favor if either/both of you get East? 
>> 
>> BTW, Hope to take more listers sailing. Contact me if interested? 
>> 
>> Chuck 
>> Resolute 
>> 1990 C&C 34R 
>> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 
>> 
>> - Original Message -
>> 
>> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
>> To: "Jimmy Kelly" , "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
>>  
>> Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2014 5:13:44 PM 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List dual ownership? 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Calypso has been co-owned for 15 years, and we (the co-owners) had a C&C 36 
>> in a partnership for 7 years before that. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> The partnership agreement is similar to a real estate limited partnership 
>> with a general partner (takes care of finances, insurance, taxes etc.) and a 
>> limited partner. We started at 50/50 with a mechanism to compensate (with 
>> ownership share) if one partner contribute more $$ over time. We have a 
>> partnership[p checking account wit

Re: Stus-List Stainless Grab Rails & New Stanchion

2014-07-30 Thread Wally Bryant via CnC-List
Steve -  Umm, you accidentally attached about two weeks of old emails 
onto your message.  


You might be able to repair that stanchion, depending on how bad it's 
bent.  I've been hit by a few big powerboats (with Mexican captains who 
think all boats are like fishing pangas and a collision is funny) and 
have made a couple of judgement calls.  If it isn't a bad bend, a good 
stainless guy can just bend it back. It won't be as strong, but it's a 
judgement call.  A good SS guy can also bend it back and slide a 
stainless sleeve inside the stanchion to make it stronger than original.


I replaced all my stanchions, so can't help with an exact replacement.  
I wanted to raise them up to 28 inches. 



Regarding replacing teak grab rails with stainless, that's a project 
that I have never regretted.  I remember hearing that TopsInQuality 
closed down.  Bummer.  I guess most folks buy on price, and they just 
couldn't compete in that market.  This link might provide some insight 
as you plan: 



It's all about the welds.

Wal

you wrote:

I need to replace on of my stanchions which got bent in a not so sexy departure 
from a dock recently.  Any ideas where I can source stanchions same as my 1990 
34+?

Also I am interested in replacing the old teak grab rails with a stainless rail 
and wanted to know if anyone has done this and if so where did they go to have 
said rail made?



--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


___
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Re: Stus-List Stainless Grab Rails & New Stanchion

2014-07-30 Thread Ron Casciato via CnC-List
Steve:

I agree with Wally...the only remaining piece of teak on my 38MKIIC
is the "fiddle" on the sliding companionway hatch.  Tops In Quality did mine
and they are a great addition to any boat..  I gave my "teak maintenance
stuff away"

I also hear that Tops In Quality was out of business, but check online to
see if anyone has taken them over.or find a local stainless
fabricator in your area...

Where is your area?

BE prepared to spend around $400-500 or so for a complete set.

Good luck,

Ron C.

P.S. I'm surprised that your email actually came throughwhat with all
that stuff hanging on the end of itI guess the list moderator was asleep
at the switch..





-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stephen
Thorne via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2014 3:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Stainless Grab Rails & New Stanchion




Guys,

I need to replace on of my stanchions which got bent in a not so sexy
departure from a dock recently.  Any ideas where I can source stanchions
same as my 1990 34+?

Also I am interested in replacing the old teak grab rails with a stainless
rail and wanted to know if anyone has done this and if so where did they go
to have said rail made?

Steve Thorne
Deja Vu
C&C 34+
On Jul 16, 2014, at 6:20 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:


___
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Stus-List nicro solar fans

2014-07-30 Thread Bev Parslow via CnC-List
Lost the address for the repair kit.___
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Stus-List Joker valve war!

2014-07-30 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List
I finally swapped out the joker valve in Touche's head because it was
leaking back.  Didn't leak much.  Just some of the water between the bowl
and the anti-siphon loop.

As usual, it had become scaled up.  I threw the old one in some vinegar and
most of the scale dissolved but the rubber was so distorted it was dumpster
material.

I coated the new joker valve with TefGel hoping to get more life out of
it.  I think Peggy Hall, the head mistress recommends Super Lube for
heads.

Also, I read that throwing some vinegar in the head routinely minimizes
scale build up.

This really isn't a big thing for me.  I get the valves wholesale for under
$10 and changing one is only a 10 minute job.  But I'd sure like to skip it
altogether.

Any other tricks?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Stainless Grab Rails & New Stanchion

2014-07-30 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
I'd bet Atlantic Spars in Annapolis could make them.

Joel

On Wednesday, July 30, 2014, Ron Casciato via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Steve:
>
> I agree with Wally...the only remaining piece of teak on my 38MKIIC
> is the "fiddle" on the sliding companionway hatch.  Tops In Quality did
> mine
> and they are a great addition to any boat..  I gave my "teak maintenance
> stuff away"
>
> I also hear that Tops In Quality was out of business, but check online to
> see if anyone has taken them over.or find a local stainless
> fabricator in your area...
>
> Where is your area?
>
> BE prepared to spend around $400-500 or so for a complete set.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Ron C.
>
> P.S. I'm surprised that your email actually came throughwhat with all
> that stuff hanging on the end of itI guess the list moderator was
> asleep
> at the switch..
>
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On
> Behalf Of Stephen
> Thorne via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2014 3:01 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Stus-List Stainless Grab Rails & New Stanchion
>
>
>
>
> Guys,
>
> I need to replace on of my stanchions which got bent in a not so sexy
> departure from a dock recently.  Any ideas where I can source stanchions
> same as my 1990 34+?
>
> Also I am interested in replacing the old teak grab rails with a stainless
> rail and wanted to know if anyone has done this and if so where did they go
> to have said rail made?
>
> Steve Thorne
> Deja Vu
> C&C 34+
> On Jul 16, 2014, at 6:20 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
> wrote:
>
>
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>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Stainless Grab Rails & New Stanchion

2014-07-30 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List
Steve,

The guys at http://www.whitewatermarineinc.com/ can do both but South Shore
may be a better bet for the stanchion.

Walk down your pier to the J30 "Jalapeno" and look at the SS handrails on
it.  I had whitewater make those for me to install.  Sent them the old teak
ones for a pattern.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Joker valve war!

2014-07-30 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Hi Dennis,

To minimize scale in the toilet system our 
practice is to pump twelve times after the bowl 
clears (while in flush mode). Swing to dry bowl 
and pump a few more times if going sailing. I 
believe this practice moves the uric acid out of the system.


We've had only minor scale issues a couple of 
times in thirty years, including live-aboard for two years.


I have been meaning to do the vinegar soak but 
never got around to it, however a maintenance 
practice does include the occasional dollop of veggie oil pumped through.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 07:23 PM 30/07/2014, you wrote:
I finally swapped out the joker valve in 
Touche's head because it was leaking 
back.  Didn't leak much.  Just some of the 
water between the bowl and the anti-siphon loop. Â


As usual, it had become scaled up.  I threw the 
old one in some vinegar and most of the scale 
dissolved but the rubber was so distorted it was dumpster material.


I coated the new joker valve with TefGel hoping 
to get more life out of it.  I think Peggy 
Hall, the head mistress recommends Super Lube for heads.Â


Also, I read that throwing some vinegar in the 
head routinely minimizes scale build up.


This really isn't a big thing for me.  I get 
the valves wholesale for under $10 and changing 
one is only a 10 minute job.  But I'd sure like to skip it altogether.


Any other tricks?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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