Guys,
I need to replace on of my stanchions which got bent in a not so sexy departure
from a dock recently. Any ideas where I can source stanchions same as my 1990
34+?
Also I am interested in replacing the old teak grab rails with a stainless rail
and wanted to know if anyone has done this and if so where did they go to have
said rail made?
Steve Thorne
Deja Vu
C&C 34+
On Jul 16, 2014, at 6:20 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: keel boats (Chuck S)
> 2. Re: dual ownership? (Chuck S)
> 3. Re: bonding strap question (Chuck S)
> 4. Re: bonding strap question (Chuck S)
> 5. Re: Stanchion inserts (Chuck S)
> 6. Re: Got mildew? (Chuck S)
> 7. Solar Panels & Clear Plastic Windows (sam.c.sal...@gmail.com)
> 8. Re: Solar Panels & Clear Plastic Windows (Rich Knowles)
> 9. Re: bonding strap question (Rich Knowles)
> 10. Re: bonding strap question (Ken Heaton)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2014 23:28:29 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net>
> To: Bev Parslow <bparslo...@yahoo.ca>, "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List keel boats
> Message-ID:
> <580001928.25379703.1405466909450.javamail.r...@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I like the boat on land to tighten the keel bolts/nuts. You are using the
> force, gravity to help compress boat and keel together that way. In the
> water, the keel weight is hanging on the bolts and gravity is working against
> you. The builder put the keel on, on land.
>
>
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Sent: Monday, July 14, 2014 12:42:50 PM
> Subject: Stus-List keel boats
>
> The mast is coming out so would like the keel bolts checked. Does the boat
> need to be on the hard or can I do it on the water?
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 01:35:34 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net>
> To: "DeYoung, Martin" <mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com>, "CNC boat owners,
> cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List dual ownership?
> Message-ID:
> <511723699.25432104.1405474534634.javamail.r...@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Martin,
> I always enjoy your generous and sound advice. Tell John "hello" from New
> Jersey Chuck. That daysail on Calypso was a highlight of my trip to Seattle.
> You guys were so gracious to invite me, a stranger, aboard and I've since
> taken another lister sailing w his family and just can't thank you enough for
> your hospitality.
>
> Moved the boat close to Annapolis, and better sailing, and hope to return the
> favor if either/both of you get East?
>
> BTW, Hope to take more listers sailing. Contact me if interested?
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: "Jimmy Kelly" <kellyjimmy...@gmail.com>, "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2014 5:13:44 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List dual ownership?
>
>
>
> Calypso has been co-owned for 15 years, and we (the co-owners) had a C&C 36
> in a partnership for 7 years before that.
>
>
>
> The partnership agreement is similar to a real estate limited partnership
> with a general partner (takes care of finances, insurance, taxes etc.) and a
> limited partner. We started at 50/50 with a mechanism to compensate (with
> ownership share) if one partner contribute more $$ over time. We have a
> partnership[p checking account with auto deposit of monthly contribution.
>
>
>
> Scheduling has rarely been an issue but we had a practice of alternating
> years for first pick of major holidays etc. Lately we have been setting up
> the race sched in January and discussing what other events/cruises may be
> interesting. Both our spouses are dis -inclined to go out with us for more
> than a day sail unless we line up extra crew to assist with the sail
> handling.
>
>
>
> We both race, splitting duties and sharing/discussion tactical decisions.
> Fortunately we have had similar ideas of budget and level of completion. We
> double-hand race from time to time and have been able to deal with "heat of
> the moment" race decisions without creating long term inter-personal issues.
>
>
>
> My best advice for boat partnerships is to pick a partner that is a good
> person first, good sailor second, ability to pay third, Next have a written
> separation agreement that makes it possible to un-wind the partnership when
> things change.
>
>
>
> Some separation clauses I have seen include the right of one partner to buy
> out the other before offering the share for sale, others with the ability of
> the remaining partner to veto a unsuitable new partner.
>
>
>
> Feel free to email questions on co-ownership experience if I did not cover
> your particular questions.
>
>
>
> Martin
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C&C 43
>
> Seattle
>
> From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Jimmy Kelly via
> CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2014 1:19 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List dual ownership?
>
> has any one tried shared ownership of sailboat? have owned & operated my cnc
> 41 for 40 years..am finding not using enough..but do not wish to sell
> her...younger co owners as well as us in 70s...could work something out..to
> mutual benefit....boat in good shape needs very little other than
> marina&insurance costs..would this be good way for younger couple to get into
> larger boat....any ideas are welcome...boat currently west coast ...
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page
> at:
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>
>
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 01:56:38 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net>
> To: Burt Stratton <bstrat...@falconnect.com>, "CNC boat owners,
> cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List bonding strap question
> Message-ID:
> <1689022991.25438700.1405475798660.javamail.r...@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> FWIW, Our boat has one keel bolt washer w a big lug welded to it. It is under
> the nut on the foremost bolt under the mast step and a stranded wire connects
> the mast to this washer, so the keel is the ground for the mast.
>
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: "Frederick G Street" <f...@postaudio.net>, "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2014 3:40:12 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List bonding strap question
>
>
>
> Hi Fred,
>
>
>
> Thanks for the response and the offer. I can deal with 4awg stranded wire if
> that is an acceptable practice. My son in law is a master electrician and has
> all the big crimpers I need.
>
>
>
> Here is the challenge and another question: Those keel bolts are really big
> (close to 1 inch diameter, I bet) and I have not been able to find
> termination hardware (rings or open rings) that would fit over them. I
> noticed on my boat that there is a smaller bolt just forward of the mast
> right in the center of the bilge, definitely directly over the front part of
> the keel that is maybe 3/8 inch to ? inch in diameter. Could this be used for
> bonding? All the other braided bonding cables go to the big keel bolts aft of
> the mast. This is bonding and lightning protection, not DC ground.
>
>
>
> Skip
>
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick
> G Street via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2014 10:35 AM
> To: Frederick G Street; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List bonding strap question
>
>
>
>
> Actually, there?s a reason to NOT use braid; from the ABYC bonding standard:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> The common bonding conductor shall be uninsulated copper or bronze strip,
> copper tubing, bare tinned-copper wire or insulated copper wire of the proper
> gauge. Copper braid shall not be used for this purpose.
>
> (a) Common Bonding conductors fabricated from copper or bronze strip shall
> have a minimum thickness of 1/32 inch and be no less than 1/2 inch in width.
>
> (b) Wire, where used as the common bonding conductor, shall be at least no. 8
> AWG.
>
> Note: These requirements are based on both physical strength and the ability
> to make alld maintain low-resistance connections, as well as current ratings.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> So 8AWG would be okay for bonding; UNLESS it?s part of a lightning protection
> system. Then 4AWG is recommended.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jul 13, 2014, at 8:59 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Skip ? there?s no reason to use braid over the usual insulated large-gauge
> stranded cable. I?ve got all crimp terminals from 8AWG to 4/0, in terminal
> sizes from #10 to 3/8?, as well as the proper compound crimper needed to do
> those large lugs; if you?d like, I could do up a heavy grounding wire for
> you. 4AWG green cable should be okay for the mast; I may actually have some
> of that around, depending on the length you need. And for the engine, if it?s
> just bonding (NOT the main DC system ground), 4AWG should be okay there, too.
> If you need a main DC ground, I?d probably go bigger than 4AWG; maybe 2/0 to
> account for engine cranking current.
>
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jul 13, 2014, at 7:52 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I am in need of a bonding conductor for both my engine block and mast. Engine
> block strap is corroded to the point of dust. Mast strap is missing.
>
>
>
>
>
> The boat contains braided tinned copper straps with nice big ring ends to fit
> over the keel bolts. I have been able to find braided flat straps but no
> termination hardware. Does anyone here have experience with that? I have lots
> of experience terminating standard stranded wire but never braided straps. Is
> there a source for purchasing pre-terminated straps of varying length?
>
>
>
>
>
> Skip
>
>
> 1974 C&C 33 ? ton
>
>
> Portsmouth, RI
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 01:58:19 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net>
> To: Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca>, "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List bonding strap question
> Message-ID:
> <1487474968.25439184.1405475899582.javamail.r...@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Silk ties may be better?
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: "Frederick G Street" <f...@postaudio.net>, "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2014 11:25:54 AM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List bonding strap question
>
> Leather works well for bondage.
>
> Rich
>
> On Jul 13, 2014, at 11:34, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
>
>
>
>
> Actually, there?s a reason to NOT use braid; from the ABYC bonding standard:
>
>
> <blockquote>
> The common bonding conductor shall be uninsulated copper or bronze strip,
> copper tubing, bare tinned-copper wire or insulated copper wire of the proper
> gauge. Copper braid shall not be used for this purpose.
>
> (a) Common Bonding conductors fabricated from copper or bronze strip shall
> have a minimum thickness of 1/32 inch and be no less than 1/2 inch in width.
>
> (b) Wire, where used as the common bonding conductor, shall be at least no. 8
> AWG.
>
> Note: These requirements are based on both physical strength and the ability
> to make alld maintain low-resistance connections, as well as current ratings.
>
>
>
>
> So 8AWG would be okay for bonding; UNLESS it?s part of a lightning protection
> system. Then 4AWG is recommended.
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
> On Jul 13, 2014, at 8:59 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
>
>
> <blockquote>
>
> Skip ? there?s no reason to use braid over the usual insulated large-gauge
> stranded cable. I?ve got all crimp terminals from 8AWG to 4/0, in terminal
> sizes from #10 to 3/8?, as well as the proper compound crimper needed to do
> those large lugs; if you?d like, I could do up a heavy grounding wire for
> you. 4AWG green cable should be okay for the mast; I may actually have some
> of that around, depending on the length you need. And for the engine, if it?s
> just bonding (NOT the main DC system ground), 4AWG should be okay there, too.
> If you need a main DC ground, I?d probably go bigger than 4AWG; maybe 2/0 to
> account for engine cranking current.
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
> On Jul 13, 2014, at 7:52 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
>
>
> <blockquote>
>
> I am in need of a bonding conductor for both my engine block and mast. Engine
> block strap is corroded to the point of dust. Mast strap is missing.
> The boat contains braided tinned copper straps with nice big ring ends to fit
> over the keel bolts. I have been able to find braided flat straps but no
> termination hardware. Does anyone here have experience with that? I have lots
> of experience terminating standard stranded wire but never braided straps. Is
> there a source for purchasing pre-terminated straps of varying length?
> Skip
> 1974 C&C 33 ? ton
> Portsmouth, RI
>
> </blockquote>
>
>
> </blockquote>
>
>
> </blockquote>
>
> <blockquote>
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
> </blockquote>
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 02:06:32 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net>
> To: "Ronald B. Frerker" <rbfrer...@yahoo.com>, "CNC boat owners,
> cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Stanchion inserts
> Message-ID:
> <1101097076.25442008.1405476392938.javamail.r...@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I have Amsteel and don't see abrasion from stanchions. It's very tough stuff.
> UVs seen to be the real enemy, and they can be removed for winter storage
> very easily.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: "Dennis C." <capt...@gmail.com>, "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2014 10:41:05 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Stanchion inserts
>
> How about those heat shrink tubes over the line at the stanchions?
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C&C 30-1
> STL
>
> --------------------------------------------
> On Sat, 7/12/14, Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Subject: Stus-List Stanchion inserts
> To: "CnClist" <CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
> Date: Saturday, July 12, 2014, 12:59 PM
>
> Speaking of making sure the holes
> in the stanchions are smooth so the lifelines don't get
> chafed, anybody know where to get those little plastic
> inserts or come up with a good solution for this? Like
> flared SS tubing, etc.?
>
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> -----Inline Attachment Follows-----
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
> go bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page
> at:
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>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 02:13:02 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net>
> To: "Dennis C." <capt...@gmail.com>, "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Got mildew?
> Message-ID:
> <1819077115.25444123.1405476782334.javamail.r...@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Good to know. I found Tilex sprayed on a sponge works very well to remove
> black spots. Lightly spray area afterwards w Tilex and let dry to protect for
> long lerm.
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
> Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2014 4:43:01 PM
> Subject: Stus-List Got mildew?
>
> I have a Nicro solar vent in the head. The deck around the vent is prone to
> mildew. Only place on the boat where mildew seems to thrive.
>
> I usually scrub it with Soft Scrub with bleach. Does the job but I didn't
> like the abrasion on the nonskid gelcoat. I've also used Roll Off and other
> marine cleaners.
>
> Well, today I tried Clorox Scrubbing Bubbles Foaming Bleach bathroom cleaner
> on it. All I can say is WOW!! Simply squirted it on, waited 5-10 minutes and
> then thoroughly washed it off. Mildew POOF! GONE! Deck is white.
>
> Probably need to make sure the stuff doesn't get on the painted topsides.
> Since it foams, it doesn't move too much but it sure did the job.
>
> Must have an activator in it similar to Jomax. Jomax is an activator for
> bleach used to clean houses.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page
> at:
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>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2014 21:47:46 -0600
> From: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com
> To: CnC <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Stus-List Solar Panels & Clear Plastic Windows
> Message-ID: <20140716034746.6000784.41820.20...@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 02:16:01 -0300
> From: Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca>
> To: "sam.c.sal...@gmail.com" <sam.c.sal...@gmail.com>,
> "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Solar Panels & Clear Plastic Windows
> Message-ID: <21de3cb7-de6a-495a-a0b0-1ef6ff57e...@sailpower.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Suggest taking a piece of the material you plan on using for the window and
> putting it over the panel to see the effect. There are many different kinds
> of plastic and their effect on light transmission can vary. A practical test
> is the best way to go methinks.
>
> Rich
>
>> On Jul 16, 2014, at 0:47, Sam Salter via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> ?Okay here's the question -
>>
>> Will a solar panel work under a clear, flexible plastic window. The sort
>> sewn into a Sunbrella dodger.
>>
>> Customer wants a companionway cover but his solar panel is mounted ?on top
>> of the top slider. Thought I could sew in a window if it would work.
>>
>> sam :-)
>> C&C 26 Liquorice
>> Ghost Lake Alberta
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 06:49:17 -0300
> From: Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca>
> To: Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net>
> Cc: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List bonding strap question
> Message-ID: <26e207ec-30bf-4502-a904-ac291ab4b...@sailpower.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> The foredeck cow would approve. The idea of leather bothers her.
>
> Rich
>
>> On Jul 15, 2014, at 22:58, Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>> Silk ties may be better?
>>
>>
>>
>> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> To: "Frederick G Street" <f...@postaudio.net>, "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2014 11:25:54 AM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List bonding strap question
>>
>> Leather works well for bondage.
>>
>> Rich
>>
>> On Jul 13, 2014, at 11:34, Frederick G Street via CnC-List
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Actually, there?s a reason to NOT use braid; from the ABYC bonding standard:
>>
>> The common bonding conductor shall be uninsulated copper or bronze strip,
>> copper tubing, bare tinned-copper wire or insulated copper wire of the
>> proper gauge. Copper braid shall not be used for this purpose.
>>
>> (a) Common Bonding conductors fabricated from copper or bronze strip shall
>> have a minimum thickness of 1/32 inch and be no less than 1/2 inch in width.
>>
>> (b) Wire, where used as the common bonding conductor, shall be at least no.
>> 8 AWG.
>>
>> Note: These requirements are based on both physical strength and the ability
>> to make alld maintain low-resistance connections, as well as current ratings.
>>
>> So 8AWG would be okay for bonding; UNLESS it?s part of a lightning
>> protection system. Then 4AWG is recommended.
>>
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>
>> On Jul 13, 2014, at 8:59 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Skip ? there?s no reason to use braid over the usual insulated large-gauge
>> stranded cable. I?ve got all crimp terminals from 8AWG to 4/0, in terminal
>> sizes from #10 to 3/8?, as well as the proper compound crimper needed to do
>> those large lugs; if you?d like, I could do up a heavy grounding wire for
>> you. 4AWG green cable should be okay for the mast; I may actually have some
>> of that around, depending on the length you need. And for the engine, if
>> it?s just bonding (NOT the main DC system ground), 4AWG should be okay
>> there, too. If you need a main DC ground, I?d probably go bigger than 4AWG;
>> maybe 2/0 to account for engine cranking current.
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>
>> On Jul 13, 2014, at 7:52 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I am in need of a bonding conductor for both my engine block and mast.
>> Engine block strap is corroded to the point of dust. Mast strap is missing.
>>
>> The boat contains braided tinned copper straps with nice big ring ends to
>> fit over the keel bolts. I have been able to find braided flat straps but no
>> termination hardware. Does anyone here have experience with that? I have
>> lots of experience terminating standard stranded wire but never braided
>> straps. Is there a source for purchasing pre-terminated straps of varying
>> length?
>>
>> Skip
>> 1974 C&C 33 ? ton
>> Portsmouth, RI
>> _______________________________________________
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
>> page at:
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>>
>>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 07:19:39 -0300
> From: Ken Heaton <kenhea...@gmail.com>
> To: Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net>, cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List bonding strap question
> Message-ID:
> <CAAbfP6R00BN0QcVYYU_WycCtDzK=dYVUAJV-K=gbqiaz5eq...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Ours is done the same way.
>
> "Our boat has one keel bolt washer w a big lug welded to it. It is under
> the nut on the foremost bolt under the mast step and a stranded wire
> connects the mast to this washer, so the keel is the ground for the mast."
>
> Ken H.
> C&C 37 XL Salazar
> 1990, Hull #67
> Cape Breton Island
>
>
> On 15 July 2014 22:56, Chuck S via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> FWIW, Our boat has one keel bolt washer w a big lug welded to it. It is
>> under the nut on the foremost bolt under the mast step and a stranded wire
>> connects the mast to this washer, so the keel is the ground for the mast.
>>
>>
>> Chuck
>> Resolute
>> 1990 C&C 34R
>> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>>
>> ------------------------------
>> *From: *"CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> *To: *"Frederick G Street" <f...@postaudio.net>, "CNC boat owners,
>> cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> *Sent: *Sunday, July 13, 2014 3:40:12 PM
>>
>> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List bonding strap question
>>
>> Hi Fred,
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks for the response and the offer. I can deal with 4awg stranded wire
>> if that is an acceptable practice. My son in law is a master electrician
>> and has all the big crimpers I need.
>>
>>
>>
>> Here is the challenge and another question: Those keel bolts are really
>> big (close to 1 inch diameter, I bet) and I have not been able to find
>> termination hardware (rings or open rings) that would fit over them. I
>> noticed on my boat that there is a smaller bolt just forward of the mast
>> right in the center of the bilge, definitely directly over the front part
>> of the keel that is maybe 3/8 inch to ? inch in diameter. Could this be
>> used for bonding? All the other braided bonding cables go to the big keel
>> bolts aft of the mast. This is bonding and lightning protection, not DC
>> ground.
>>
>>
>>
>> Skip
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of
>> *Frederick
>> G Street via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Sunday, July 13, 2014 10:35 AM
>> *To:* Frederick G Street; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List bonding strap question
>>
>>
>>
>> Actually, there?s a reason to NOT use braid; from the ABYC bonding
>> standard:
>>
>>
>>
>> The common bonding conductor shall be uninsulated copper or bronze strip,
>> copper tubing, bare tinned-copper wire or insulated copper wire of the
>> proper gauge.
>> *Copper braid shall not be used for this purpose. *
>> (a) Common Bonding conductors fabricated from copper or bronze strip shall
>> have a minimum thickness of 1/32 inch and be no less than 1/2 inch in width.
>>
>> (b) Wire, where used as the common bonding conductor, shall be at least
>> no. 8 AWG.
>>
>> Note: These requirements are based on both physical strength and the
>> ability to make alld maintain low-resistance
>> connections, as well as current ratings.
>>
>>
>>
>> So 8AWG would be okay for bonding; UNLESS it?s part of a lightning
>> protection system. Then 4AWG is recommended.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V *Oceanis* (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jul 13, 2014, at 8:59 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> Skip ? there?s no reason to use braid over the usual insulated large-gauge
>> stranded cable. I?ve got all crimp terminals from 8AWG to 4/0, in terminal
>> sizes from #10 to 3/8?, as well as the proper compound crimper needed to do
>> those large lugs; if you?d like, I could do up a heavy grounding wire for
>> you. 4AWG green cable should be okay for the mast; I may actually have
>> some of that around, depending on the length you need. And for the engine,
>> if it?s just bonding (NOT the main DC system ground), 4AWG should be okay
>> there, too. If you need a main DC ground, I?d probably go bigger than
>> 4AWG; maybe 2/0 to account for engine cranking current.
>>
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V *Oceanis* (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jul 13, 2014, at 7:52 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> I am in need of a bonding conductor for both my engine block and mast.
>> Engine block strap is corroded to the point of dust. Mast strap is missing.
>>
>>
>>
>> The boat contains braided tinned copper straps with nice big ring ends to
>> fit over the keel bolts. I have been able to find braided flat straps but
>> no termination hardware. Does anyone here have experience with that? I have
>> lots of experience terminating standard stranded wire but never braided
>> straps. Is there a source for purchasing pre-terminated straps of varying
>> length?
>>
>>
>>
>> Skip
>>
>> 1974 C&C 33 ? ton
>>
>> Portsmouth, RI
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
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> End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 102, Issue 51
> *****************************************
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