Steve,

Check with South Shore http://southshoreyachts.com , Rob has most parts ...

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 30, 2014, at 3:01 PM, "Stephen Thorne via CnC-List" 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guys,
> 
> I need to replace on of my stanchions which got bent in a not so sexy 
> departure from a dock recently.  Any ideas where I can source stanchions same 
> as my 1990 34+?
> 
> Also I am interested in replacing the old teak grab rails with a stainless 
> rail and wanted to know if anyone has done this and if so where did they go 
> to have said rail made?
> 
> Steve Thorne
> Deja Vu
> C&C 34+
>> On Jul 16, 2014, at 6:20 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> 
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>> 
>> Today's Topics:
>> 
>>  1. Re:  keel boats (Chuck S)
>>  2. Re:  dual ownership? (Chuck S)
>>  3. Re:  bonding strap question (Chuck S)
>>  4. Re:  bonding strap question (Chuck S)
>>  5. Re:  Stanchion inserts (Chuck S)
>>  6. Re:  Got mildew? (Chuck S)
>>  7.  Solar Panels & Clear Plastic Windows (sam.c.sal...@gmail.com)
>>  8. Re:  Solar Panels & Clear Plastic Windows (Rich Knowles)
>>  9. Re:  bonding strap question (Rich Knowles)
>> 10. Re:  bonding strap question (Ken Heaton)
>> 
>> 
>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>> 
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2014 23:28:29 +0000 (UTC)
>> From: Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net>
>> To: Bev Parslow <bparslo...@yahoo.ca>,    "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"
>>    <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List keel boats
>> Message-ID:
>>    <580001928.25379703.1405466909450.javamail.r...@comcast.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> I like the boat on land to tighten the keel bolts/nuts. You are using the 
>> force, gravity to help compress boat and keel together that way. In the 
>> water, the keel weight is hanging on the bolts and gravity is working 
>> against you. The builder put the keel on, on land. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Chuck 
>> Resolute 
>> 1990 C&C 34R 
>> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 
>> 
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> 
>> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> Sent: Monday, July 14, 2014 12:42:50 PM 
>> Subject: Stus-List keel boats 
>> 
>> The mast is coming out so would like the keel bolts checked. Does the boat 
>> need to be on the hard or can I do it on the water? 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________ 
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 
>> 
>> Email address: 
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
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>> ------------------------------
>> 
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 01:35:34 +0000 (UTC)
>> From: Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net>
>> To: "DeYoung, Martin" <mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com>,    "CNC boat owners,
>>    cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List dual ownership?
>> Message-ID:
>>    <511723699.25432104.1405474534634.javamail.r...@comcast.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> Martin, 
>> I always enjoy your generous and sound advice. Tell John "hello" from New 
>> Jersey Chuck. That daysail on Calypso was a highlight of my trip to Seattle. 
>> You guys were so gracious to invite me, a stranger, aboard and I've since 
>> taken another lister sailing w his family and just can't thank you enough 
>> for your hospitality. 
>> 
>> Moved the boat close to Annapolis, and better sailing, and hope to return 
>> the favor if either/both of you get East? 
>> 
>> BTW, Hope to take more listers sailing. Contact me if interested? 
>> 
>> Chuck 
>> Resolute 
>> 1990 C&C 34R 
>> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 
>> 
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> 
>> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> To: "Jimmy Kelly" <kellyjimmy...@gmail.com>, "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2014 5:13:44 PM 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List dual ownership? 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Calypso has been co-owned for 15 years, and we (the co-owners) had a C&C 36 
>> in a partnership for 7 years before that. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> The partnership agreement is similar to a real estate limited partnership 
>> with a general partner (takes care of finances, insurance, taxes etc.) and a 
>> limited partner. We started at 50/50 with a mechanism to compensate (with 
>> ownership share) if one partner contribute more $$ over time. We have a 
>> partnership[p checking account with auto deposit of monthly contribution. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Scheduling has rarely been an issue but we had a practice of alternating 
>> years for first pick of major holidays etc. Lately we have been setting up 
>> the race sched in January and discussing what other events/cruises may be 
>> interesting. Both our spouses are dis -inclined to go out with us for more 
>> than a day sail unless we line up extra crew to assist with the sail 
>> handling. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> We both race, splitting duties and sharing/discussion tactical decisions. 
>> Fortunately we have had similar ideas of budget and level of completion. We 
>> double-hand race from time to time and have been able to deal with "heat of 
>> the moment" race decisions without creating long term inter-personal issues. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> My best advice for boat partnerships is to pick a partner that is a good 
>> person first, good sailor second, ability to pay third, Next have a written 
>> separation agreement that makes it possible to un-wind the partnership when 
>> things change. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Some separation clauses I have seen include the right of one partner to buy 
>> out the other before offering the share for sale, others with the ability of 
>> the remaining partner to veto a unsuitable new partner. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Feel free to email questions on co-ownership experience if I did not cover 
>> your particular questions. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Martin 
>> 
>> Calypso 
>> 
>> 1971 C&C 43 
>> 
>> Seattle 
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Jimmy Kelly via 
>> CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
>> Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2014 1:19 PM 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Subject: Stus-List dual ownership? 
>> 
>> has any one tried shared ownership of sailboat? have owned & operated my cnc 
>> 41 for 40 years..am finding not using enough..but do not wish to sell 
>> her...younger co owners as well as us in 70s...could work something out..to 
>> mutual benefit....boat in good shape needs very little other than 
>> marina&insurance costs..would this be good way for younger couple to get 
>> into larger boat....any ideas are welcome...boat currently west coast ... 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________ 
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 
>> 
>> Email address: 
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>> page at: 
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
>> 
>> 
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>> ------------------------------
>> 
>> Message: 3
>> Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 01:56:38 +0000 (UTC)
>> From: Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net>
>> To: Burt Stratton <bstrat...@falconnect.com>,    "CNC boat owners,
>>    cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List bonding strap question
>> Message-ID:
>>    <1689022991.25438700.1405475798660.javamail.r...@comcast.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> FWIW, Our boat has one keel bolt washer w a big lug welded to it. It is 
>> under the nut on the foremost bolt under the mast step and a stranded wire 
>> connects the mast to this washer, so the keel is the ground for the mast. 
>> 
>> 
>> Chuck 
>> Resolute 
>> 1990 C&C 34R 
>> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 
>> 
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> 
>> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> To: "Frederick G Street" <f...@postaudio.net>, "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2014 3:40:12 PM 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List bonding strap question 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Hi Fred, 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks for the response and the offer. I can deal with 4awg stranded wire if 
>> that is an acceptable practice. My son in law is a master electrician and 
>> has all the big crimpers I need. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Here is the challenge and another question: Those keel bolts are really big 
>> (close to 1 inch diameter, I bet) and I have not been able to find 
>> termination hardware (rings or open rings) that would fit over them. I 
>> noticed on my boat that there is a smaller bolt just forward of the mast 
>> right in the center of the bilge, definitely directly over the front part of 
>> the keel that is maybe 3/8 inch to ? inch in diameter. Could this be used 
>> for bonding? All the other braided bonding cables go to the big keel bolts 
>> aft of the mast. This is bonding and lightning protection, not DC ground. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Skip 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick 
>> G Street via CnC-List 
>> Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2014 10:35 AM 
>> To: Frederick G Street; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List bonding strap question 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Actually, there?s a reason to NOT use braid; from the ABYC bonding standard: 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> The common bonding conductor shall be uninsulated copper or bronze strip, 
>> copper tubing, bare tinned-copper wire or insulated copper wire of the 
>> proper gauge. Copper braid shall not be used for this purpose. 
>> 
>> (a) Common Bonding conductors fabricated from copper or bronze strip shall 
>> have a minimum thickness of 1/32 inch and be no less than 1/2 inch in width. 
>> 
>> (b) Wire, where used as the common bonding conductor, shall be at least no. 
>> 8 AWG. 
>> 
>> Note: These requirements are based on both physical strength and the ability 
>> to make alld maintain low-resistance connections, as well as current 
>> ratings. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> So 8AWG would be okay for bonding; UNLESS it?s part of a lightning 
>> protection system. Then 4AWG is recommended. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis 
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Jul 13, 2014, at 8:59 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List < 
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Skip ? there?s no reason to use braid over the usual insulated large-gauge 
>> stranded cable. I?ve got all crimp terminals from 8AWG to 4/0, in terminal 
>> sizes from #10 to 3/8?, as well as the proper compound crimper needed to do 
>> those large lugs; if you?d like, I could do up a heavy grounding wire for 
>> you. 4AWG green cable should be okay for the mast; I may actually have some 
>> of that around, depending on the length you need. And for the engine, if 
>> it?s just bonding (NOT the main DC system ground), 4AWG should be okay 
>> there, too. If you need a main DC ground, I?d probably go bigger than 4AWG; 
>> maybe 2/0 to account for engine cranking current. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis 
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Jul 13, 2014, at 7:52 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List < 
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> I am in need of a bonding conductor for both my engine block and mast. 
>> Engine block strap is corroded to the point of dust. Mast strap is missing. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> The boat contains braided tinned copper straps with nice big ring ends to 
>> fit over the keel bolts. I have been able to find braided flat straps but no 
>> termination hardware. Does anyone here have experience with that? I have 
>> lots of experience terminating standard stranded wire but never braided 
>> straps. Is there a source for purchasing pre-terminated straps of varying 
>> length? 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Skip 
>> 
>> 
>> 1974 C&C 33 ? ton 
>> 
>> 
>> Portsmouth, RI 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________ 
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 
>> 
>> Email address: 
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>> page at: 
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
>> 
>> 
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>> ------------------------------
>> 
>> Message: 4
>> Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 01:58:19 +0000 (UTC)
>> From: Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net>
>> To: Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca>,    "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"
>>    <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List bonding strap question
>> Message-ID:
>>    <1487474968.25439184.1405475899582.javamail.r...@comcast.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> Silk ties may be better? 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> 
>> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> To: "Frederick G Street" <f...@postaudio.net>, "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2014 11:25:54 AM 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List bonding strap question 
>> 
>> Leather works well for bondage. 
>> 
>> Rich 
>> 
>> On Jul 13, 2014, at 11:34, Frederick G Street via CnC-List < 
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Actually, there?s a reason to NOT use braid; from the ABYC bonding standard: 
>> 
>> 
>> <blockquote>
>> The common bonding conductor shall be uninsulated copper or bronze strip, 
>> copper tubing, bare tinned-copper wire or insulated copper wire of the 
>> proper gauge. Copper braid shall not be used for this purpose. 
>> 
>> (a) Common Bonding conductors fabricated from copper or bronze strip shall 
>> have a minimum thickness of 1/32 inch and be no less than 1/2 inch in width. 
>> 
>> (b) Wire, where used as the common bonding conductor, shall be at least no. 
>> 8 AWG. 
>> 
>> Note: These requirements are based on both physical strength and the ability 
>> to make alld maintain low-resistance connections, as well as current 
>> ratings. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> So 8AWG would be okay for bonding; UNLESS it?s part of a lightning 
>> protection system. Then 4AWG is recommended. 
>> 
>> 
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis 
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI 
>> 
>> On Jul 13, 2014, at 8:59 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List < 
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 
>> 
>> 
>> <blockquote>
>> 
>> Skip ? there?s no reason to use braid over the usual insulated large-gauge 
>> stranded cable. I?ve got all crimp terminals from 8AWG to 4/0, in terminal 
>> sizes from #10 to 3/8?, as well as the proper compound crimper needed to do 
>> those large lugs; if you?d like, I could do up a heavy grounding wire for 
>> you. 4AWG green cable should be okay for the mast; I may actually have some 
>> of that around, depending on the length you need. And for the engine, if 
>> it?s just bonding (NOT the main DC system ground), 4AWG should be okay 
>> there, too. If you need a main DC ground, I?d probably go bigger than 4AWG; 
>> maybe 2/0 to account for engine cranking current. 
>> 
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis 
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI 
>> 
>> On Jul 13, 2014, at 7:52 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List < 
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 
>> 
>> 
>> <blockquote>
>> 
>> I am in need of a bonding conductor for both my engine block and mast. 
>> Engine block strap is corroded to the point of dust. Mast strap is missing. 
>> The boat contains braided tinned copper straps with nice big ring ends to 
>> fit over the keel bolts. I have been able to find braided flat straps but no 
>> termination hardware. Does anyone here have experience with that? I have 
>> lots of experience terminating standard stranded wire but never braided 
>> straps. Is there a source for purchasing pre-terminated straps of varying 
>> length? 
>> Skip 
>> 1974 C&C 33 ? ton 
>> Portsmouth, RI 
>> 
>> </blockquote>
>> 
>> 
>> </blockquote>
>> 
>> 
>> </blockquote>
>> 
>> <blockquote>
>> 
>> _______________________________________________ 
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 
>> 
>> Email address: 
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>> page at: 
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
>> 
>> 
>> </blockquote>
>> 
>> _______________________________________________ 
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 
>> 
>> Email address: 
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>> page at: 
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
>> 
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>> ------------------------------
>> 
>> Message: 5
>> Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 02:06:32 +0000 (UTC)
>> From: Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net>
>> To: "Ronald B. Frerker" <rbfrer...@yahoo.com>,    "CNC boat owners,
>>    cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Stanchion inserts
>> Message-ID:
>>    <1101097076.25442008.1405476392938.javamail.r...@comcast.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> I have Amsteel and don't see abrasion from stanchions. It's very tough 
>> stuff. UVs seen to be the real enemy, and they can be removed for winter 
>> storage very easily. 
>> 
>> 
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> 
>> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> To: "Dennis C." <capt...@gmail.com>, "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2014 10:41:05 PM 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Stanchion inserts 
>> 
>> How about those heat shrink tubes over the line at the stanchions? 
>> Ron 
>> Wild Cheri 
>> C&C 30-1 
>> STL 
>> 
>> -------------------------------------------- 
>> On Sat, 7/12/14, Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 
>> 
>> Subject: Stus-List Stanchion inserts 
>> To: "CnClist" <CnC-List@cnc-list.com> 
>> Date: Saturday, July 12, 2014, 12:59 PM 
>> 
>> Speaking of making sure the holes 
>> in the stanchions are smooth so the lifelines don't get 
>> chafed, anybody know where to get those little plastic 
>> inserts or come up with a good solution for this? Like 
>> flared SS tubing, etc.? 
>> 
>> 
>> Dennis C. 
>> Touche' 35-1 #83 
>> Mandeville, LA 
>> 
>> -----Inline Attachment Follows----- 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________ 
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 
>> 
>> Email address: 
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- 
>> go bottom of page at: 
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________ 
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 
>> 
>> Email address: 
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>> page at: 
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>> ------------------------------
>> 
>> Message: 6
>> Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 02:13:02 +0000 (UTC)
>> From: Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net>
>> To: "Dennis C." <capt...@gmail.com>,    "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"
>>    <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Got mildew?
>> Message-ID:
>>    <1819077115.25444123.1405476782334.javamail.r...@comcast.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> Good to know. I found Tilex sprayed on a sponge works very well to remove 
>> black spots. Lightly spray area afterwards w Tilex and let dry to protect 
>> for long lerm. 
>> 
>> Chuck 
>> Resolute 
>> 1990 C&C 34R 
>> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 
>> 
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> 
>> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <CnC-List@cnc-list.com> 
>> Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2014 4:43:01 PM 
>> Subject: Stus-List Got mildew? 
>> 
>> I have a Nicro solar vent in the head. The deck around the vent is prone to 
>> mildew. Only place on the boat where mildew seems to thrive. 
>> 
>> I usually scrub it with Soft Scrub with bleach. Does the job but I didn't 
>> like the abrasion on the nonskid gelcoat. I've also used Roll Off and other 
>> marine cleaners. 
>> 
>> Well, today I tried Clorox Scrubbing Bubbles Foaming Bleach bathroom cleaner 
>> on it. All I can say is WOW!! Simply squirted it on, waited 5-10 minutes and 
>> then thoroughly washed it off. Mildew POOF! GONE! Deck is white. 
>> 
>> Probably need to make sure the stuff doesn't get on the painted topsides. 
>> Since it foams, it doesn't move too much but it sure did the job. 
>> 
>> Must have an activator in it similar to Jomax. Jomax is an activator for 
>> bleach used to clean houses. 
>> 
>> Dennis C. 
>> Touche' 35-1 #83 
>> Mandeville, LA 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________ 
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 
>> 
>> Email address: 
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>> page at: 
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
>> 
>> 
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>> ------------------------------
>> 
>> Message: 7
>> Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2014 21:47:46 -0600
>> From: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com
>> To: CnC <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Subject: Stus-List Solar Panels & Clear Plastic Windows
>> Message-ID: <20140716034746.6000784.41820.20...@gmail.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>> 
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>> ------------------------------
>> 
>> Message: 8
>> Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 02:16:01 -0300
>> From: Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca>
>> To: "sam.c.sal...@gmail.com" <sam.c.sal...@gmail.com>,
>>    "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Solar Panels & Clear Plastic Windows
>> Message-ID: <21de3cb7-de6a-495a-a0b0-1ef6ff57e...@sailpower.ca>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> Suggest taking a piece of the material you plan on using for the window and 
>> putting it over the panel to see the effect. There are many different kinds 
>> of plastic and their effect on light transmission can vary. A practical test 
>> is the best way to go methinks. 
>> 
>> Rich
>> 
>>> On Jul 16, 2014, at 0:47, Sam Salter via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ?Okay here's the question - 
>>> 
>>> Will a solar panel work under a clear, flexible plastic window. The sort 
>>> sewn into a Sunbrella dodger.
>>> 
>>> Customer wants a companionway cover but his solar panel is mounted ?on top 
>>> of the top slider. Thought I could sew in a window if it would work. 
>>> 
>>> sam :-)
>>> C&C 26 Liquorice 
>>> Ghost Lake Alberta 
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>> 
>> ------------------------------
>> 
>> Message: 9
>> Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 06:49:17 -0300
>> From: Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca>
>> To: Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net>
>> Cc: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List bonding strap question
>> Message-ID: <26e207ec-30bf-4502-a904-ac291ab4b...@sailpower.ca>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> The foredeck cow would approve. The idea of leather bothers her. 
>> 
>> Rich
>> 
>>> On Jul 15, 2014, at 22:58, Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Silk ties may be better?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>>> To: "Frederick G Street" <f...@postaudio.net>, "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>>> Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2014 11:25:54 AM
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List bonding strap question
>>> 
>>> Leather works well for bondage. 
>>> 
>>> Rich
>>> 
>>> On Jul 13, 2014, at 11:34, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Actually, there?s a reason to NOT use braid; from the ABYC bonding standard:
>>> 
>>> The common bonding conductor shall be uninsulated copper or bronze strip, 
>>> copper tubing, bare tinned-copper wire or insulated copper wire of the 
>>> proper gauge. Copper braid shall not be used for this purpose.
>>> 
>>> (a) Common Bonding conductors fabricated from copper or bronze strip shall 
>>> have a minimum thickness of 1/32 inch and be no less than 1/2 inch in width.
>>> 
>>> (b) Wire, where used as the common bonding conductor, shall be at least no. 
>>> 8 AWG.
>>> 
>>> Note: These requirements are based on both physical strength and the 
>>> ability to make alld maintain low-resistance connections, as well as 
>>> current ratings.
>>> 
>>> So 8AWG would be okay for bonding; UNLESS it?s part of a lightning 
>>> protection system.  Then 4AWG is recommended.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>> 
>>> On Jul 13, 2014, at 8:59 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Skip ? there?s no reason to use braid over the usual insulated large-gauge 
>>> stranded cable.  I?ve got all crimp terminals from 8AWG to 4/0, in terminal 
>>> sizes from #10 to 3/8?, as well as the proper compound crimper needed to do 
>>> those large lugs; if you?d like, I could do up a heavy grounding wire for 
>>> you.  4AWG green cable should be okay for the mast; I may actually have 
>>> some of that around, depending on the length you need.  And for the engine, 
>>> if it?s just bonding (NOT the main DC system ground), 4AWG should be okay 
>>> there, too.  If you need a main DC ground, I?d probably go bigger than 
>>> 4AWG; maybe 2/0 to account for engine cranking current.
>>> 
>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>> 
>>> On Jul 13, 2014, at 7:52 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I am in need of a bonding conductor for both my engine block and mast. 
>>> Engine block strap is corroded to the point of dust. Mast strap is missing.
>>> 
>>> The boat contains braided tinned copper straps with nice big ring ends to 
>>> fit over the keel bolts. I have been able to find braided flat straps but 
>>> no termination hardware. Does anyone here have experience with that? I have 
>>> lots of experience terminating standard stranded wire but never braided 
>>> straps. Is there a source for purchasing pre-terminated straps of varying 
>>> length?
>>> 
>>> Skip
>>> 1974 C&C 33 ? ton
>>> Portsmouth, RI
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>>> page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>>> 
>>> 
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>> ------------------------------
>> 
>> Message: 10
>> Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 07:19:39 -0300
>> From: Ken Heaton <kenhea...@gmail.com>
>> To: Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net>, cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List bonding strap question
>> Message-ID:
>>    <CAAbfP6R00BN0QcVYYU_WycCtDzK=dYVUAJV-K=gbqiaz5eq...@mail.gmail.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> Ours is done the same way.
>> 
>> "Our boat has one keel bolt washer w a big lug welded to it.  It is under
>> the nut on the foremost bolt under the mast step and a stranded wire
>> connects the mast to this washer, so the keel is the ground for the mast."
>> 
>> Ken H.
>> C&C 37 XL Salazar
>> 1990, Hull #67
>> Cape Breton Island
>> 
>> 
>>> On 15 July 2014 22:56, Chuck S via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> FWIW, Our boat has one keel bolt washer w a big lug welded to it.  It is
>>> under the nut on the foremost bolt under the mast step and a stranded wire
>>> connects the mast to this washer, so the keel is the ground for the mast.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Chuck
>>> Resolute
>>> 1990 C&C 34R
>>> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>>> 
>>> ------------------------------
>>> *From: *"CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>>> *To: *"Frederick G Street" <f...@postaudio.net>, "CNC boat owners,
>>> cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>>> *Sent: *Sunday, July 13, 2014 3:40:12 PM
>>> 
>>> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List bonding strap question
>>> 
>>> Hi Fred,
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Thanks for the response and the offer. I can deal with 4awg stranded wire
>>> if that is an acceptable practice. My son in law is a master electrician
>>> and has all the big crimpers I need.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Here is the challenge and another question: Those keel bolts are really
>>> big (close to 1 inch diameter, I bet) and I have not been able to find
>>> termination hardware (rings or open rings) that would fit over them. I
>>> noticed on my boat that there is a smaller bolt just forward of the mast
>>> right in the center of the bilge, definitely directly over the front part
>>> of the keel that is maybe 3/8 inch to ? inch in diameter. Could this be
>>> used for bonding? All the other braided bonding cables go to the big keel
>>> bolts aft of the mast. This is bonding and lightning protection, not DC
>>> ground.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Skip
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
>>> *Frederick
>>> G Street via CnC-List
>>> *Sent:* Sunday, July 13, 2014 10:35 AM
>>> *To:* Frederick G Street; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List bonding strap question
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Actually, there?s a reason to NOT use braid; from the ABYC bonding
>>> standard:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> The common bonding conductor shall be uninsulated copper or bronze strip,
>>> copper tubing, bare tinned-copper wire or insulated copper wire of the
>>> proper gauge.
>>> *Copper braid shall not be used for this purpose. *
>>> (a) Common Bonding conductors fabricated from copper or bronze strip shall
>>> have a minimum thickness of 1/32 inch and be no less than 1/2 inch in width.
>>> 
>>> (b) Wire, where used as the common bonding conductor, shall be at least
>>> no. 8 AWG.
>>> 
>>> Note: These requirements are based on both physical strength and the
>>> ability to make alld maintain low-resistance
>>> connections, as well as current ratings.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> So 8AWG would be okay for bonding; UNLESS it?s part of a lightning
>>> protection system.  Then 4AWG is recommended.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>> S/V *Oceanis* (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Jul 13, 2014, at 8:59 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Skip ? there?s no reason to use braid over the usual insulated large-gauge
>>> stranded cable.  I?ve got all crimp terminals from 8AWG to 4/0, in terminal
>>> sizes from #10 to 3/8?, as well as the proper compound crimper needed to do
>>> those large lugs; if you?d like, I could do up a heavy grounding wire for
>>> you.  4AWG green cable should be okay for the mast; I may actually have
>>> some of that around, depending on the length you need.  And for the engine,
>>> if it?s just bonding (NOT the main DC system ground), 4AWG should be okay
>>> there, too.  If you need a main DC ground, I?d probably go bigger than
>>> 4AWG; maybe 2/0 to account for engine cranking current.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>> S/V *Oceanis* (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Jul 13, 2014, at 7:52 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I am in need of a bonding conductor for both my engine block and mast.
>>> Engine block strap is corroded to the point of dust. Mast strap is missing.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> The boat contains braided tinned copper straps with nice big ring ends to
>>> fit over the keel bolts. I have been able to find braided flat straps but
>>> no termination hardware. Does anyone here have experience with that? I have
>>> lots of experience terminating standard stranded wire but never braided
>>> straps. Is there a source for purchasing pre-terminated straps of varying
>>> length?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Skip
>>> 
>>> 1974 C&C 33 ? ton
>>> 
>>> Portsmouth, RI
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
>>> page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> 
>>> Email address:
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>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
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>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
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>> End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 102, Issue 51
>> *****************************************
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